Spoiler below. I think it was the coil. At around 06:38 my multimeter beeps briefly when I touch the inside of it. Missed it at the time! I've since checked the coil I removed and the enamel is burnt away inside, so it's shorted. I guess that was the problem all along. Maybe. 😅
To measure continuity, resistance or capacitance, your mulitmeter does inject a small electric current (a few microamps only, but voltage and intensity typically depend on the measuring range) So when the board is powered on, the 12V from the PSU is messing with the multimeter which cannot figure which current is which (the one from the PSU? or from itself to measure continuity/resistance?). This is especially true when measuring continuity from GND when the PSU is plugged in. That's why *_YOU SHOULD NEVER MEASURE CONTINUITY/RESISTANCE OR CAPACITANCE ON A LIVE CIRCUIT_* because at best it gives you wrong results and at worst it can fry your multimeter! That applies to ohm/continuity and capacitance, but measuring voltage and amps is fine (it doesn't need to send any electric current to support the volt or amp measurement): * for voltage the multimeter doesn't send anything, on the contrary it has an infinite impedance and is seen as an open circuit. * for measuring current: the multimeter doesn't send anything, it simply measures the current via some mean (either using a calibrated resistor or using hall effect), and in current measurement (measuring amps) the internal resistance is near zero so that the multimeter behaves as a wire.
about the coil: it was probably damaged and was shorted. In this case it doesn't work as a coil which is to hold energy along with either a resistor or a capacitor (or both)... you remember your LRC circuits at school? Well if one of them is zero it won't oscillate and hence the power chip (the IC) won't be able to store any energy at each cycle because there's no oscillation. For power inductors, you can replace them with an inductor having a different value (measured in Henry) but then the power supply may well become unstable: there may well not be enough energy stored in the inductor to compensate for the ground bounces and Vcc sags that the main IC generates (when it open and close many transistors at once). Also the replacement inductor must be able to handle the same intensity (amps) as the original one, or higher. Local decoupling (large capacitors located near the main IC) help with suddent voltage variations (ground bounces and Vcc sags) but if there's not enough energy upstream (in the inductor) then it won't compensate as well, and then the main IC may fail (the system crash).
To put it simply you bypassed the coil possibly even touching something with power draw and completed the circuit. I don't know about the resistor you put in size doesn't prove strength it could be of higher capacity therefore last longer or burn out the board if there is a short.
That long beep is because your multimeter detected a voltage present while trying to measure continuity. You can’t measure continuity, resistance, capacitance or voltage drops across a diode in a live circuit because the multimeter actually puts out a small voltage across the probes which it uses for its measurement calculations. Doing this in a live circuit can’t work for this reason
Two things: 1- Your multi meter injects a voltage in continuity mode, so having a voltage already in the circuit will just mess with it, causing spurious readings. 2- the coil is an inductor which acts as a choke to a timing signal, delaying it. Circuits have to initialise in order. You did it manually with your meter.
Ever since finding this channel, I have fixed a cooker hood, a toaster, a lawn mower and an old Commodore 64, and all of them positively cack-handed and not without obvious jeopardy. Nothing is on fire yet🤙🤔. Inspiration Steve (not copying at all, no, no copying). Thanks!
Same here... I've fixed kids toys, a 1977 Pong, a bunch of GameBoys, and am working on a 1953 radio and some SNESs. Also RetroSix has some great videos.
Its become an unstoppable force....I can't stop fixing Nintendo Switches at the moment....Toasters and the occasional vacuum cleaner are bit of a goto as well 🤣
Yes, that's the key! People should be able to fix their stuff and Steve is giving up inspiration! I've fixed a lot of stuff so far but finding his channel helped me with more troublesome devices, like a badly corroded NeoGeo Pocket Color I managed to fix after 3 years.
Nothing to do with this (admittedly terrific) video but I just wanted to say that watching you over the past few months has given me the courage to try fixing things myself. I successfully fixed our bagless morphy richards vacuum yesterday, my wife was so pleased she made a special dinner! It’s been a wild week!
Same! It inspired me to go out and buy a cheap soldering iron with some of that braided stuff, and turn two broken xbox controllers into one by swapping the broken thumbstick, it was pretty awesome.
@@tommacpherson9456 check out replacing the potentiometer parts (usually just one) of the stick if it drifts. I've fixed many more doing that for much much cheaper
I always work with the principle "it won't be any more broke after I've tinkered with it", working with that promise you can't cop too much criticism. And often you'll be surprised when you actually fix it!
I can explain two main things (as an electronics engineer and having 45 years of experience with tinkering with electronics and fixing stuff) and a bunch of secundary stuff which might have happened when you managed to intermittently turn the thing on: 1) the pop in the speaker at start-up. This is just the nature of the beast. The audio amplifier section of a full size arcade cabinet is basically a 1970's guitar amp and, on power up, slight variations in component values, on both sides of a supposedly symmetrical circuit, will cause the output to fly off towards one of "the rails" (the positive and negative X-Volts which supplies the end stage of the audio amplifier), only for the negative feedback regulation circuit to kick in and snap the speaker back to it's neutral position at approximately 0 Volts/Amps DC. This causes the audible "pop" at start-up. 2) Why it started when you initially got it started. The fault was most likely the coil having a shorted turn (or multiple shorted turns once it fried itself). You probing around either caused the the assembly to flex enough to relieve the short(S) temporarily or caused enough of a "thermovoltage" (the friction of plugging something in or dragging a probe accross a contact causes a measurable voltage to be created) for the logic supply to turn on. You see, the thing about switch-mode power supplies or buck voltage regulators (one of which this ABBAM chip is going to turn out to be) is they either work or they don't, mostly dependant on whether you get them started or not. Once started, you can get them to work for decades, even when components in the circuit drift *WAY* out of spec. This is the basic reason why, sometimes, devices with switchmode power supplies (like VCR's, Satellite receivers, DAB radios and some TVs, don't turn back on after a power outage. Usually due to high value (100 kOhms+) resitors having drifted up or capacitors having drifted low.
I am also an electronics engineer and sound technician, This is why when designing power audio amplifiers, I Usually make a power on delay circuit which switches on the VCC part of an integrated or power amplifier module after applying power to the VDD part which is a higher voltage which powers the output (transistor) stage of the amplifier, which keeps it silent, PA amplifiers on start up just use the delay process of the speaker protection circuit.
I think you're spot on Chris. I noticed when watching the video back that my multimeter probes beep on continuity when I briefly touch the inside of the coil! Missed it at the time, but I've since checked the coil I removed and sure enough, the enamel has burnt away internally and it's shorted! 😬
@@StezStixFix So - at least on paper - the coil is acting as a filter or current smoothing. So by fitting a random one, it's effectively filtering noise for a different frequency or smoothing current differently. In this case its hard to tell, but you swapped out a 2.2 uH one (I think). My guess is that board was considering some sort mains noise being carried at 50Hz, possibly due to audio hum, but it's only a guess. The problem with the coil is of course, once hot, the enamel melts and you short it, both reducing its resistance and its purpose. The one you replaced it with is 50/50 the right type, but probably not the right current. So your melting count may need to get reset. 🤣 Not an expert - that's just my hot take.
@@StezStixFix A good coil will ring out in continuity, too. You'd need a meter that could read inductance or a signal generator that could inject some sort of alternating current to test an inductor.
Yes the coil was still showing continuity because the insulation coating failed because of the heat generated. Ive seen that with lots of repairs ive done. Great video Steve. Kind regards. Paul 😎👍
@@youniszaxo5181 No, that is not how it works. :) The coil needs to have a certain inductance (ability to store energy) - and if it is shorted, the inductance is reduced or lost. If it would work while shorted. you wouldn't need the coil in the first place.
Haha I admire your composure when that loud noise happened following the slip (trying to avoid spoilers here!). I'd have screamed like a little boy haha. Brilliant video. Oh, and love that song at the end!
WOW! Great theme song Steve! it's catchy for sure. So, just a tip here, whenever I'm working on stuff, I always tend to only try one solution at a time so that I know what the actual fix was. So, it could really only be either the re-flow or the coil but, I'm thinking that there must have been a broken "sodder" connection in that area (perhaps the li'l voltage regulator?) and the re-flow must have reconnected it all back. But maybe it was the coil? Maybe (if you want to torture yourself again), you could take it all apart and put that coil back on and see if that was the problem? Anyways, great video (as always) can't wait for the next one.
Good shout. Since editing, I checked that coil I removed and it's definitely shorted internally (the enamel had burnt away) so I guess that was the problem all along. 🤔
I've been watching a few of your videos and enjoying them very much. And although it's nothing to do with your actual videos, I can't believe how many of these products are rendered absolutely useless because of a blown fuse or resistor or capacitor. You've probably repaired thousands of pounds worth of goods with something that, apart from your time, costs a couple of pence at most. Keep up the good work.
If it were an older multimeter without a safety function that limits current in continuity mode(and gives a nice warning beep ;) ) it could get blown up if you check continuity on a source that had a voltage present. @StezStixFix
Watching your channel for quite some time now. My oven just decided to stop working and after the obvious problems, ended up being the circuit board. Your channel gave me the courage to take a look at it and whadda ya know? A quick re solder on a suspicious spot and boom! Fixed. You saved me $800 :-)
@@nickmunday1691 My method is to know smd packages quite well and type into search engine package + 2 letters/number of marking (never take all marking because there are date code and bundle code so it chnages every time). I look on pictures to see the same looking and in generalI found quite easily
For SMD you must know the packages quite well (here SOT-23-5) and search only for the two first letters/numbers because others letters/numbers are in general date code or bundle code.
If you use a polarising filter on your microscope the lettering on chips is made much clearer. I’ve not done it myself but I’ve seen it done and the difference is amazing.
As others have said internal short which caused the voltages you read on the regulator (most have short circuit protection), your other question is important though: “is the new coil fine”, best guess is no (not for long term), the size of the coil is due to some factors such as saturation current, DCR, operating frequency (higher the frequency the smaller the coil), and obviously inductance value; Should work short term but longer term you will likely create more issues, faster degradation of the regulator, fyi if that fails from overheating then next inline is that Main IC (good luck finding a replacement!) anyways nice fix, well done 🎉, I’d be tempted to get that coil replaced asap though
Spot on!! The old one being melted like that is a clear sign. Maybe a heat sink or cooling on the board isn’t a bad idea either. Those temps got pretty high.
Picked up this exact machine off a lady from FB market place for $50 Australian. Screen had vertical lines running through so i replaced the screen, joysticks and buttons. Then put a raspberry pi inside and now its awesome.
You are so fun to watch...it's hillaius when forget your tools in the other room and freak out when things pop or make sounds on your boards...love your channel keep up the good work...
I had the same machine and when my hydrometer coil re expanded to the thermal density level of the megatron, i knew it had to be the capacitating requisitor function that needed to be replaced. Perhaps you could visit the electronic store and buy a new plasma fitting for the voltometer flux. probably.
i would say a nice dry joint and a reflow fixed it, as you basically shorted the new coil out. You will also read low resistance on your meter with the power applied, dont think you should be measuring ohms with power applied
Thank you Steve! Brilliant! you've given me great encouragement, I'm now going to fix the B&O 5000 remote. (I suppose I'll have to buy a soldering iron now)
Hi, I love your videos and you have inspired me! I really want to be able to fix my little boys battery powered toys. Do you have any starter videos on this subject that could help a beginner. I have bought a digital multimeter and a soldering kit and wire, but need a crash course in identifying problems and fixing electronics.
I am fixing old cameras and sometimes i just need a battery that isn‘t being produced anymore to check if the electronic parts are still alive. I saw that you sometimes apply the voltage with something that you can adjust(?). What are these called? I an hoping to 3D print some mock-batteries that i can use a tool like yours to quickly test old cameras and equipment with the correct voltage.. Thanks!
I've been watching your videos over a couple of weeks while battling insomnia, I'm so glad I didn't watch this one in the dead of night, I would have jumped a mile when the sounds suddenly came on 😂
I've had my head inside the back of a Killer instinct 2 cabinet with the hard drive installed the wrong way round (non-notched ide cable). It's got a useful built in check and to alert you it screams DANGER DANGER DANGER at full volume on power up. It took me a good 15 mins to stop shaking.
The coil heated up (why? unknown...perhaps the gauge of wire is underrated for current passing through), hot enough to melt the insulation on the wire, which changed the inductance out of spec enough so that the switch mode PS (presumably the 5-pin part next to it) would not start. Then putting the meter across changed the impedance to enable it to start. You just got lucky matching the inductance from the salvaged coil. I enjoy your channel a lot!
Great video Steve. I have this exact cabinet & the board failed on mine too. I put a raspberry pi in there instead & an arcade game image with 2,600 games which have the original Street Fighter games aswell as hundreds of great arcade games. Maybe something to consider in the future.
When you had your meter grounded you shorted the small power ic near the coil . Probably sending a power on signal to the main processor . Great video BTW glad another item got fixed . Search of ic finds 5 pin voltage ic's. Digikey have similar pinout ic's so a like for like ic existed if needed .
I have one of these, but I dropped in an old pc (4th gen i5 and a RX550) and upgraded the buttons/joysticks. It's now a SteamOS system running Bazzite that works pretty nice running PC games and emulators straight from the Steam menu, controls were pretty straightforward too in Steam's settings. I did have to buy a display board to allow it to use HDMI for an input. The screen not being 1080p or 16:9 means it can play some newer games just fine without a ton of tinkering in settings. Some games designed for 16:9 will be kinda funky though lol
They do make great mame cabinets, I've got the same i my office but with a Raspberry Pi. Thinking of putting a more powerful pc in to run more demanding games. I've not tried it yet but I might try out SteamOS with it, cheers for the suggestion.
😂 Nice fix with the coil. You got me into fixing electronics. Just realived a xbox s today 🎉 Keep up going with the informative videos! Have fun with the arcade 🎉
2R2 would be part of a DC-DC converter and crucial in converting what looks like 5v to 3v. Also, grab yourself a can of freeze-it, no more waiting for things to cool down! . Its pipe freezing spray for plumbers, great for rapid cooldown of individual components/areas for thermal fault testing, don't use too much and just be aware of any condensation as parts warm back up...
When at all possible, let things cool down 'naturally'. Bringing it down quickly can cause (more) thermal stress and break things. If you're not in a hurry (and a patient person), let it cool down slowly.
Nice fix Steve, really enjoyed it thanks. With ref to the cap top giving continuity, I was working on an intermittent power supply for a tv, I was heating up the capacitors with my soldering iron 30 seconds on each one until I got to a capacitor on the hot side, I touched the top with the soldering iron and ‘BANG’ it took the tip off of my soldering iron and tripped the electric 😂.
Surely that replacement nintendo coil should be more than suitable. Its probably a far superior coil regardless of the size, knowing how good nintendo are at shrinking down technology & it still being able to perform for decades for consoles that demand a lot more than 16bit street fighter games. Good job & great video.
In general: You can not replace any coil simply with any other. They need to have the correct parameters like: Inductance, current and voltage rating. It was basically luck that this worked out - and may not work when the current draw is higher.
@@TylerDurden-pk5km makes sense. But that street fighter should not draw anymore current then it does when it's working normally, it can only play street fighter right? So it's working at its maximum draw as it is surely. Not like putting "the last of us" or "BO2" in an old backward compatible 60gb ps3.
@@oldeenglishbear5852 Don't know what is powered by through that DC converter on that board - may work under all circumstances may not. Simple example where current draw could change: Loudness setting of the speakers. Also: If a coil is overloaded, it will take time till it gets hot and fails (depending on how much).
Amazing! I need to find out why my midway legacy cab boots with sound but has no video output. Out of my 6 cabs, the midway legacy is the only one to have issues.
I have that same Pac Man ghost light. I always knew you had class. Also, it's "great" how the YT app now will just display whatever comment it feels like, regardless of pinned comment, so my wandering eyes accidentally saw that the problem was a faulty bit of coal that was internally sharted. This is why i put diapers on all my electronics and never feed them coals after midnight.
Hi Stez, Another possibility is that an internal wire bond to the regulador was not making a proper connection, ive had cases that pressing the component body or terminals can make ti work again, by reflowing the area was enough to fix it for good or at least temporarily....maybe....😂. Love your videos, greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Still my favourite way to start a Sunday is your videos. The ‘process’ really helps me refine my fixing escapades. Thanks Steve and for gods sake keep ‘mispronouncing’ things……
Only a bit jealous at that price, I've been keeping my eye out for any cheap cabinets, you can get cheap Jamma boards and I converted an Astro City cab for work once and it's not hard to do!
Well done. The IC seems to be a XRP6658 PWM buck (step down convertor) so relies on the inductor to function. There are some notes in the datasheet on inductor selection (as a minimum it needs to be rated at least 1Amp. I may be wrong (has been known) but you may be testing for continuity, resistance when the board is powered. This is mostly a no--no (the DVM outputs its own voltage in resistance, continuity and diode mode)
I know nothing about electronics or even an interest so why do I like watching Stez. Because you are very watchable mate very funny. Should I now buy a soldering ion and mend my Samsung TV.
Coil packs actually vibrate, like a speaker, at a very small scale (eg. graphics cards have what is called coil whine) and over time can break them selves apart and the windings can rub thru the enamel of the other wires, they are commonly used in power circuits
Dude.... I get that the coil had continuity BUT it was obviously partially fried. the reflow probably helped because the applied pressure to the regulator probably got it that kick in the pants it needed too. I don't know much about this sort of thing but If I saw a coil that fried I would change it.. which you did. Hats off for the patience. I would have probably given up.
I think from seeing similar happenings in repairing radios, tv's. amplifiers over the past 40 years, the coil was shorted, the winding of the coil is insulated, and the wire had become shorted. That's about all I can say without getting overly complicated and not trying to sound like an over inflated bore. That's my guess Steve
i think defiantly the coil when you first tested it early on in the video, you had one probe on the leg and one probe touched the top wires behind the burn and your meter sounded suggesting that that the coating had burned off and shorted that coil the mystery for me is the top of the capacitor shorting to ground.
As with any other coil resistance is everything as you know I've had the exact same thing happen on a motorcycle coil it would put out power but it wasn't enough to keep the bike running correctly it had intermittent fire not to say your coil fathers in succession but it does have resistance
A note on thermal cameras: Many people think that red or white simply means hot but it's all relative to what's in the camera's view. Red and white areas are just higher in temp than other areas. At 13:40 you mention the chip as getting hot but it's only warm and lower than your body temp. If the chip was 0 deg C and the rest of the board was below zero the chip will still be displayed in white because it would still be the warmest area.
Hi Steve, when you were doing your continuity testing did you still have power to the board? You should never check ohms or continuity while the unit is powered. Also, when continuity testing across power rails, remember to allow for the capacitors across the rails charging and making it appear there is a short across the power rail.
Since you think you isolated the faulty component to the coil, you could always remove the coil windings and coat them with most any type clear coating and re-wind it again. Than either use it or check it for a henry reading to know what that could be. Just an idea since you like to disassemble things...
Did you measure the inductance after you’ve removed it? It seemed fried so maybe it was internally shorted. But even then in a non-switching power supply it shouldn’t be an issue.
The coil will have shorted internally. It's used in a filter circuit with a capacitor to reduce spikes at the voltage regulator making a smoother dc output. The switch inductor you put in will be fine the spike that blew the original was rare.
You should always test a damaged components with your test device 2.2 micro Henry’s. It will always have continuity for it. It’s nearly a zero short it creates induction.
Nice fix. Coils have specific inductance values that are picked to make certain circuits work. If that coil had got hot and some turns shorted, or if that chunk of ferrite top missing was due to a drop or knock, then the inductance would change and maybe be too much of a change for the circuit it is part of to continue to work as designed. It is a bit like if a 100 microfarad capacitor gets old and goes to 0.1 uF then something probably stops working. Similarly if a 2 micro henry inductor breaks and becomes 0.1 then something again probably stops working. The fact most inductors are pretty low resistance has nothing to do with what they are there for - its all about their micro henry value. Maybe some of this helps? As an aside, some of the cheap component testers can test inductors. If you were interested you could test the identical ok one on the circuit labelled 2R2 to see it's inductance (label means it should be 2.2 micro henry) then check the damaged one. It would be fun to see how near the Nintendo one you fitted was to the desired 2.2uH. Keep up the great work and think of the exercise you get when you forget stuff and leave it downstairs :)
Hi StezSfix, a quick warning for your "bad readings" at 07:19 is because you can't use the multimeter on continuous or resistance scale with the power supply ON. High voltage in this curcuits wil be burn the multimeter.⚠⚠⚠
Because you would likely be dropping the voltage, that coil is part of a buck converter, it's the modern version of a regulator, the chip is probably a switching device, the coil provides a reactance and current limit, the chip and coil would be oscillating, if the coil is shorted, it will still show continuity, but wil not oscillate. The step up version is called a boost converter I would try to find a bigger coil as the one you used may not be able to carry the current for long periods.
I would say it was the reflow that made it work. It seemed like when you touched that little IC leg with the probe, it actually made contact with the pad and turned on.
One thing's for sure: the leg on that chip had to be pulled to ground to start the booting process, and that's exactly what you did with the multimeter.
The inductor you put in may not support the same current through it as the last one. If the last one failed because of temperature, it may happen with this too and faster. Check the temps with the thermal camera after it's been on for a while.
I think you've just had a dry solder joint which you've fixed with the reflow. Just touching the joint has been enough to make the connection momentarily. Just like shorting the pins on a motherboard to start it.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.922 | 10 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zmV5HRIxIBI/mqdefault.jpg)
Spoiler below.
I think it was the coil. At around 06:38 my multimeter beeps briefly when I touch the inside of it. Missed it at the time! I've since checked the coil I removed and the enamel is burnt away inside, so it's shorted. I guess that was the problem all along. Maybe. 😅
To measure continuity, resistance or capacitance, your mulitmeter does inject a small electric current (a few microamps only, but voltage and intensity typically depend on the measuring range)
So when the board is powered on, the 12V from the PSU is messing with the multimeter which cannot figure which current is which (the one from the PSU? or from itself to measure continuity/resistance?). This is especially true when measuring continuity from GND when the PSU is plugged in.
That's why *_YOU SHOULD NEVER MEASURE CONTINUITY/RESISTANCE OR CAPACITANCE ON A LIVE CIRCUIT_* because at best it gives you wrong results and at worst it can fry your multimeter!
That applies to ohm/continuity and capacitance, but measuring voltage and amps is fine (it doesn't need to send any electric current to support the volt or amp measurement):
* for voltage the multimeter doesn't send anything, on the contrary it has an infinite impedance and is seen as an open circuit.
* for measuring current: the multimeter doesn't send anything, it simply measures the current via some mean (either using a calibrated resistor or using hall effect), and in current measurement (measuring amps) the internal resistance is near zero so that the multimeter behaves as a wire.
about the coil: it was probably damaged and was shorted. In this case it doesn't work as a coil which is to hold energy along with either a resistor or a capacitor (or both)... you remember your LRC circuits at school? Well if one of them is zero it won't oscillate and hence the power chip (the IC) won't be able to store any energy at each cycle because there's no oscillation.
For power inductors, you can replace them with an inductor having a different value (measured in Henry) but then the power supply may well become unstable: there may well not be enough energy stored in the inductor to compensate for the ground bounces and Vcc sags that the main IC generates (when it open and close many transistors at once). Also the replacement inductor must be able to handle the same intensity (amps) as the original one, or higher.
Local decoupling (large capacitors located near the main IC) help with suddent voltage variations (ground bounces and Vcc sags) but if there's not enough energy upstream (in the inductor) then it won't compensate as well, and then the main IC may fail (the system crash).
To put it simply you bypassed the coil possibly even touching something with power draw and completed the circuit. I don't know about the resistor you put in size doesn't prove strength it could be of higher capacity therefore last longer or burn out the board if there is a short.
That long beep is because your multimeter detected a voltage present while trying to measure continuity. You can’t measure continuity, resistance, capacitance or voltage drops across a diode in a live circuit because the multimeter actually puts out a small voltage across the probes which it uses for its measurement calculations. Doing this in a live circuit can’t work for this reason
@@unperrier5998 yeah, I was yelling at the screen to unplug the power when he was testing the continuity
Two things: 1- Your multi meter injects a voltage in continuity mode, so having a voltage already in the circuit will just mess with it, causing spurious readings.
2- the coil is an inductor which acts as a choke to a timing signal, delaying it. Circuits have to initialise in order. You did it manually with your meter.
Ever since finding this channel, I have fixed a cooker hood, a toaster, a lawn mower and an old Commodore 64, and all of them positively cack-handed and not without obvious jeopardy. Nothing is on fire yet🤙🤔. Inspiration Steve (not copying at all, no, no copying). Thanks!
Good for you. I always believe that all it takes to learn is a willingness to try and sometimes make mistakes.
Same here... I've fixed kids toys, a 1977 Pong, a bunch of GameBoys, and am working on a 1953 radio and some SNESs. Also RetroSix has some great videos.
Its become an unstoppable force....I can't stop fixing Nintendo Switches at the moment....Toasters and the occasional vacuum cleaner are bit
of a goto as well 🤣
Yes, that's the key! People should be able to fix their stuff and Steve is giving up inspiration! I've fixed a lot of stuff so far but finding his channel helped me with more troublesome devices, like a badly corroded NeoGeo Pocket Color I managed to fix after 3 years.
Nothing to do with this (admittedly terrific) video but I just wanted to say that watching you over the past few months has given me the courage to try fixing things myself. I successfully fixed our bagless morphy richards vacuum yesterday, my wife was so pleased she made a special dinner! It’s been a wild week!
He’s great isn’t he I learnt how to fix a lot of games consoles and ad mods to them thanks to this man 😊
Same! It inspired me to go out and buy a cheap soldering iron with some of that braided stuff, and turn two broken xbox controllers into one by swapping the broken thumbstick, it was pretty awesome.
@@tommacpherson9456 check out replacing the potentiometer parts (usually just one) of the stick if it drifts. I've fixed many more doing that for much much cheaper
I'm just here for the raps and the dad jokes
I always work with the principle "it won't be any more broke after I've tinkered with it", working with that promise you can't cop too much criticism. And often you'll be surprised when you actually fix it!
I can explain two main things (as an electronics engineer and having 45 years of experience with tinkering with electronics and fixing stuff) and a bunch of secundary stuff which might have happened when you managed to intermittently turn the thing on:
1) the pop in the speaker at start-up. This is just the nature of the beast. The audio amplifier section of a full size arcade cabinet is basically a 1970's guitar amp and, on power up, slight variations in component values, on both sides of a supposedly symmetrical circuit, will cause the output to fly off towards one of "the rails" (the positive and negative X-Volts which supplies the end stage of the audio amplifier), only for the negative feedback regulation circuit to kick in and snap the speaker back to it's neutral position at approximately 0 Volts/Amps DC. This causes the audible "pop" at start-up.
2) Why it started when you initially got it started.
The fault was most likely the coil having a shorted turn (or multiple shorted turns once it fried itself). You probing around either caused the the assembly to flex enough to relieve the short(S) temporarily or caused enough of a "thermovoltage" (the friction of plugging something in or dragging a probe accross a contact causes a measurable voltage to be created) for the logic supply to turn on.
You see, the thing about switch-mode power supplies or buck voltage regulators (one of which this ABBAM chip is going to turn out to be) is they either work or they don't, mostly dependant on whether you get them started or not. Once started, you can get them to work for decades, even when components in the circuit drift *WAY* out of spec.
This is the basic reason why, sometimes, devices with switchmode power supplies (like VCR's, Satellite receivers, DAB radios and some TVs, don't turn back on after a power outage. Usually due to high value (100 kOhms+) resitors having drifted up or capacitors having drifted low.
I am also an electronics engineer and sound technician, This is why when designing power audio amplifiers, I Usually make a power on delay circuit which switches on the VCC part of an integrated or power amplifier module after applying power to the VDD part which is a higher voltage which powers the output (transistor) stage of the amplifier, which keeps it silent, PA amplifiers on start up just use the delay process of the speaker protection circuit.
as an electronics engineer.............YAWN
@@tyronenelson9124 neither of u are engineers and nobody cares.
PRZECIEŻ TERAZ KOMPLETNIE SIĘ NIE DA CZYTAĆ KOMENTARZY!!!!!! F U YT 😠
@@Brianck1971the creator literally asked for an explanation. And I for one am glad to read the explanations. Sod off.
The coil was probably internally shorted, so its no longer an inductor but still passes current through . Im not a pro though! Awesome video Steve!
I think you're spot on Chris. I noticed when watching the video back that my multimeter probes beep on continuity when I briefly touch the inside of the coil! Missed it at the time, but I've since checked the coil I removed and sure enough, the enamel has burnt away internally and it's shorted! 😬
@@StezStixFix So - at least on paper - the coil is acting as a filter or current smoothing. So by fitting a random one, it's effectively filtering noise for a different frequency or smoothing current differently. In this case its hard to tell, but you swapped out a 2.2 uH one (I think). My guess is that board was considering some sort mains noise being carried at 50Hz, possibly due to audio hum, but it's only a guess.
The problem with the coil is of course, once hot, the enamel melts and you short it, both reducing its resistance and its purpose. The one you replaced it with is 50/50 the right type, but probably not the right current. So your melting count may need to get reset. 🤣
Not an expert - that's just my hot take.
Correct.
@@StezStixFix A good coil will ring out in continuity, too. You'd need a meter that could read inductance or a signal generator that could inject some sort of alternating current to test an inductor.
Was my tought aswell, the enamel coating on the wires has gone byebye.
Yes the coil was still showing continuity because the insulation coating failed because of the heat generated. Ive seen that with lots of repairs ive done. Great video Steve. Kind regards. Paul 😎👍
Yeah but it still had a continuity so it should work fine even without insulation. But I think he didn't check it properly
@@youniszaxo5181 No, that is not how it works. :) The coil needs to have a certain inductance (ability to store energy) - and if it is shorted, the inductance is reduced or lost. If it would work while shorted. you wouldn't need the coil in the first place.
Loving that theme song at the end!!!
Me too! Needs that on every video!👏🏻🎶🎵
sounds kinda like ai
me wants more of that!
I came here to say the same thing. Where can I get that tune???
Yes it's very cool
Haha I admire your composure when that loud noise happened following the slip (trying to avoid spoilers here!). I'd have screamed like a little boy haha. Brilliant video. Oh, and love that song at the end!
I was screaming internally 😂
I needed a change of underwear just watching the video...
Can relate to the “damn, I have to go down and up the stairs again sigh” sound😅
Okay, you should have WAY more subscribers than you do right now cuz you are hilarious.
Glad to see you rise to the challenge once more. Especially with how troublesome that cabinet was. And the new outro absolutely slaps there! 🎵😀
It was well worth it for this thing, it's a great little machine! I love it ❤
@@StezStixFix Isn't Suno fun!
WOW! Great theme song Steve! it's catchy for sure. So, just a tip here, whenever I'm working on stuff, I always tend to only try one solution at a time so that I know what the actual fix was. So, it could really only be either the re-flow or the coil but, I'm thinking that there must have been a broken "sodder" connection in that area (perhaps the li'l voltage regulator?) and the re-flow must have reconnected it all back. But maybe it was the coil? Maybe (if you want to torture yourself again), you could take it all apart and put that coil back on and see if that was the problem? Anyways, great video (as always) can't wait for the next one.
Good shout. Since editing, I checked that coil I removed and it's definitely shorted internally (the enamel had burnt away) so I guess that was the problem all along. 🤔
@@StezStixFix But what caused the coil to get that hot?
I've been watching a few of your videos and enjoying them very much. And although it's nothing to do with your actual videos, I can't believe how many of these products are rendered absolutely useless because of a blown fuse or resistor or capacitor. You've probably repaired thousands of pounds worth of goods with something that, apart from your time, costs a couple of pence at most. Keep up the good work.
7:07 Multimeter staying beeping can also mean you're testing continuity, but there is a voltage present - your multimeter may not like it very much!
Ah, yes that makes sense! Thank you! 🙏
@@StezStixFix ppl been telling that for a while 😂
@@wboumans Yeah, I remember telling him that a while back, He never learns lol
If it were an older multimeter without a safety function that limits current in continuity mode(and gives a nice warning beep ;) ) it could get blown up if you check continuity on a source that had a voltage present. @StezStixFix
*facepalm*
Watching your channel for quite some time now. My oven just decided to stop working and after the obvious problems, ended up being the circuit board. Your channel gave me the courage to take a look at it and whadda ya know? A quick re solder on a suspicious spot and boom! Fixed. You saved me $800 :-)
Absolutely love the way you don't know if something is the same when you swap a component over or if it it will work but it always does haha
Just for information the SOT-23-5 chip (ABBAM) is the Silergy Corp SY8008BAAC.
How did you find that? I find it very difficult to identify smd devices i tried ti find that with google and had no joy.
@@nickmunday1691 My method is to know smd packages well and type into search engine smd package + marking + 2 first letters/number
@@nickmunday1691 My method is to know smd packages quite well and type into search engine package + 2 letters/number of marking (never take all marking because there are date code and bundle code so it chnages every time). I look on pictures to see the same looking and in generalI found quite easily
@@nickmunday1691 Same. I searched high and low and found nothing. 🤔
For SMD you must know the packages quite well (here SOT-23-5) and search only for the two first letters/numbers because others letters/numbers are in general date code or bundle code.
If you use a polarising filter on your microscope the lettering on chips is made much clearer. I’ve not done it myself but I’ve seen it done and the difference is amazing.
As others have said internal short which caused the voltages you read on the regulator (most have short circuit protection), your other question is important though: “is the new coil fine”, best guess is no (not for long term), the size of the coil is due to some factors such as saturation current, DCR, operating frequency (higher the frequency the smaller the coil), and obviously inductance value; Should work short term but longer term you will likely create more issues, faster degradation of the regulator, fyi if that fails from overheating then next inline is that Main IC (good luck finding a replacement!) anyways nice fix, well done 🎉, I’d be tempted to get that coil replaced asap though
Spot on!! The old one being melted like that is a clear sign. Maybe a heat sink or cooling on the board isn’t a bad idea either. Those temps got pretty high.
Picked up this exact machine off a lady from FB market place for $50 Australian. Screen had vertical lines running through so i replaced the screen, joysticks and buttons. Then put a raspberry pi inside and now its awesome.
So you bought a box?
@@technoman9000 No, I bought an arcade machine and replaced the components.
You are so fun to watch...it's hillaius when forget your tools in the other room and freak out when things pop or make sounds on your boards...love your channel keep up the good work...
Wtf is hillaius? Do you mean hilarious?
SF2 Champion Edition, what a game this is! Still love playing it since it was released in the early 90's!
I had the same machine and when my hydrometer coil re expanded to the thermal density level of the megatron, i knew it had to be the capacitating requisitor function that needed to be replaced. Perhaps you could visit the electronic store and buy a new plasma fitting for the voltometer flux. probably.
i would say a nice dry joint and a reflow fixed it, as you basically shorted the new coil out. You will also read low resistance on your meter with the power applied, dont think you should be measuring ohms with power applied
Thank you Steve! Brilliant! you've given me great encouragement, I'm now going to fix the B&O 5000 remote. (I suppose I'll have to buy a soldering iron now)
Hi, I love your videos and you have inspired me!
I really want to be able to fix my little boys battery powered toys. Do you have any starter videos on this subject that could help a beginner. I have bought a digital multimeter and a soldering kit and wire, but need a crash course in identifying problems and fixing electronics.
@11:07 That Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo intro! Brings back a lot of memories.
I am fixing old cameras and sometimes i just need a battery that isn‘t being produced anymore to check if the electronic parts are still alive.
I saw that you sometimes apply the voltage with something that you can adjust(?).
What are these called? I an hoping to 3D print some mock-batteries that i can use a tool like yours to quickly test old cameras and equipment with the correct voltage..
Thanks!
I've been watching your videos over a couple of weeks while battling insomnia, I'm so glad I didn't watch this one in the dead of night, I would have jumped a mile when the sounds suddenly came on 😂
I've had my head inside the back of a Killer instinct 2 cabinet with the hard drive installed the wrong way round (non-notched ide cable). It's got a useful built in check and to alert you it screams DANGER DANGER DANGER at full volume on power up. It took me a good 15 mins to stop shaking.
I hope the bout of insomnia has passed!
The coil heated up (why? unknown...perhaps the gauge of wire is underrated for current passing through), hot enough to melt the insulation on the wire, which changed the inductance out of spec enough so that the switch mode PS (presumably the 5-pin part next to it) would not start. Then putting the meter across changed the impedance to enable it to start. You just got lucky matching the inductance from the salvaged coil. I enjoy your channel a lot!
Great video Steve. I have this exact cabinet & the board failed on mine too. I put a raspberry pi in there instead & an arcade game image with 2,600 games which have the original Street Fighter games aswell as hundreds of great arcade games. Maybe something to consider in the future.
I would definitely have done that if I couldn't get it working. But yeah, I might still do it because it would be pretty awesome! 😊
Never check for continuity or resistance with voltage applied.
Love your videos! Gotta say tat I am a bit concerned that I am not hearing a fume extractor most of the time. Are you using it when needed?
As always amazing video Steve... and the song at the end is SICK
I love it.
When you had your meter grounded you shorted the small power ic near the coil . Probably sending a power on signal to the main processor .
Great video BTW glad another item got fixed .
Search of ic finds 5 pin voltage ic's. Digikey have similar pinout ic's so a like for like ic existed if needed .
I have one of these, but I dropped in an old pc (4th gen i5 and a RX550) and upgraded the buttons/joysticks. It's now a SteamOS system running Bazzite that works pretty nice running PC games and emulators straight from the Steam menu, controls were pretty straightforward too in Steam's settings. I did have to buy a display board to allow it to use HDMI for an input. The screen not being 1080p or 16:9 means it can play some newer games just fine without a ton of tinkering in settings. Some games designed for 16:9 will be kinda funky though lol
They do make great mame cabinets, I've got the same i my office but with a Raspberry Pi. Thinking of putting a more powerful pc in to run more demanding games. I've not tried it yet but I might try out SteamOS with it, cheers for the suggestion.
Did you try checking the coil with a good LCR tester or one of those cheap component testers?
I'm so glad you did this video. I have a PAC man arcade one up. That's doing the exact same thing. I will have to give this a try
my new favorite saying now when i troubleshoot. "WHAT...HOW...HOW?" excellent video sir!
😂 Nice fix with the coil. You got me into fixing electronics. Just realived a xbox s today 🎉 Keep up going with the informative videos! Have fun with the arcade 🎉
2R2 would be part of a DC-DC converter and crucial in converting what looks like 5v to 3v. Also, grab yourself a can of freeze-it, no more waiting for things to cool down! . Its pipe freezing spray for plumbers, great for rapid cooldown of individual components/areas for thermal fault testing, don't use too much and just be aware of any condensation as parts warm back up...
When at all possible, let things cool down 'naturally'. Bringing it down quickly can cause (more) thermal stress and break things. If you're not in a hurry (and a patient person), let it cool down slowly.
Great video Brother Thanks for sharing Your passion and adventures from Toronto Ontario Canada 😎👍♥️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️☕️☕️☕️☕️☕️✨️✨️💯💯💯💯💯✨️✨️✨️✨️
Nice fix Steve, really enjoyed it thanks. With ref to the cap top giving continuity, I was working on an intermittent power supply for a tv, I was heating up the capacitors with my soldering iron 30 seconds on each one until I got to a capacitor on the hot side, I touched the top with the soldering iron and ‘BANG’ it took the tip off of my soldering iron and tripped the electric 😂.
Yeah, hopefully a soldering iron should be earthed. So, that's what happens!
@@greenaum luckily it is
Surely that replacement nintendo coil should be more than suitable. Its probably a far superior coil regardless of the size, knowing how good nintendo are at shrinking down technology & it still being able to perform for decades for consoles that demand a lot more than 16bit street fighter games. Good job & great video.
In general: You can not replace any coil simply with any other. They need to have the correct parameters like: Inductance, current and voltage rating. It was basically luck that this worked out - and may not work when the current draw is higher.
@@TylerDurden-pk5km makes sense. But that street fighter should not draw anymore current then it does when it's working normally, it can only play street fighter right? So it's working at its maximum draw as it is surely. Not like putting "the last of us" or "BO2" in an old backward compatible 60gb ps3.
@@oldeenglishbear5852 Don't know what is powered by through that DC converter on that board - may work under all circumstances may not. Simple example where current draw could change: Loudness setting of the speakers. Also: If a coil is overloaded, it will take time till it gets hot and fails (depending on how much).
Steve are you applying voltage to the board while the DVM is in ohms mode...because the the meter don't like it??...sorry if i'm missing something 😆
Yes, check for shorts and diode junctions etc...with power OFF
Amazing! I need to find out why my midway legacy cab boots with sound but has no video output. Out of my 6 cabs, the midway legacy is the only one to have issues.
Great work taking on bigger and more complex stuff!!
Hahaha that was funny when the music started xD like some kind of space tune out of nothing xD very nice video!
I have that same Pac Man ghost light.
I always knew you had class.
Also, it's "great" how the YT app now will just display whatever comment it feels like, regardless of pinned comment, so my wandering eyes accidentally saw that the problem was a faulty bit of coal that was internally sharted. This is why i put diapers on all my electronics and never feed them coals after midnight.
I wonder if the new coil was still getting hot after you replaced it? I've learned so much since I've started watching your videos. Love your work!!
Hi 👋 Steve. Not to long ago subscribe. I am wondering how best to get into it?? Can you suggest anything please??
Hi Stez, Another possibility is that an internal wire bond to the regulador was not making a proper connection, ive had cases that pressing the component body or terminals can make ti work again, by reflowing the area was enough to fix it for good or at least temporarily....maybe....😂.
Love your videos, greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Still my favourite way to start a Sunday is your videos. The ‘process’ really helps me refine my fixing escapades. Thanks Steve and for gods sake keep ‘mispronouncing’ things……
hi ! simple explanation actually ..... all tech is magic and witchcraft ! thanks !
Only a bit jealous at that price, I've been keeping my eye out for any cheap cabinets, you can get cheap Jamma boards and I converted an Astro City cab for work once and it's not hard to do!
Another good upload! Off topic tho, do you still have and are you selling?
THAT'S IT , MAN . WELL DONE . FROM TIME TO TIME I SEE AND FOLLOW YOUR WORK . CONGRATULATIONS . GREETINGS ! .😎👍🖐️😉
We missed Dave in the last video. Good to see ya back! 😂🤣
Gotta say, the Time Rift Arcade guys did an amazing restoration of Street Fighter II. Wait what? Steve's channel? Oh! Good job Steve
Well done. The IC seems to be a XRP6658 PWM buck (step down convertor) so relies on the inductor to function. There are some notes in the datasheet on inductor selection (as a minimum it needs to be rated at least 1Amp. I may be wrong (has been known) but you may be testing for continuity, resistance when the board is powered. This is mostly a no--no (the DVM outputs its own voltage in resistance, continuity and diode mode)
Nice outro song :D
I know nothing about electronics or even an interest so why do I like watching Stez. Because you are very watchable mate very funny. Should I now buy a soldering ion and mend my Samsung TV.
Do it! 😬
10:36 almost peed laughing/terrified like someone smashing glass while flushing it down a toilet 😅
i just finished planting a half acre of potatoes im beat cracked a cold beer and you posted an hour ago , winning 👍
Coil packs actually vibrate, like a speaker, at a very small scale (eg. graphics cards have what is called coil whine) and over time can break them selves apart and the windings can rub thru the enamel of the other wires, they are commonly used in power circuits
Did you thermal cam the replacement coil? See that it's not getting crazy hot
Dude.... I get that the coil had continuity BUT it was obviously partially fried. the reflow probably helped because the applied pressure to the regulator probably got it that kick in the pants it needed too. I don't know much about this sort of thing but If I saw a coil that fried I would change it.. which you did. Hats off for the patience. I would have probably given up.
I think from seeing similar happenings in repairing radios, tv's. amplifiers over the past 40 years, the coil was shorted, the winding of the coil is insulated, and the wire had become shorted. That's about all I can say without getting overly complicated and not trying to sound like an over inflated bore. That's my guess Steve
I did wonder if the voltage regulator had a dry joint which you shorted with you meter prope and the reflow fixed the dry joint.
We like to call that "not solid" here. But yes, I had the same thought.
This is why I love your content. Good jam at the end too
I suspect that the reflow sorted it as when you touched the multimeter on the leg of the regulator it made contact and came on, well done sir.
Good to see you work on this Arcade Machine that looks really nice Steve - Nice 👍
i think defiantly the coil when you first tested it early on in the video, you had one probe on the leg and one probe touched the top wires behind the burn and your meter sounded suggesting that that the coating had burned off and shorted that coil the mystery for me is the top of the capacitor shorting to ground.
As with any other coil resistance is everything as you know I've had the exact same thing happen on a motorcycle coil it would put out power but it wasn't enough to keep the bike running correctly it had intermittent fire not to say your coil fathers in succession but it does have resistance
A note on thermal cameras: Many people think that red or white simply means hot but it's all relative to what's in the camera's view. Red and white areas are just higher in temp than other areas. At 13:40 you mention the chip as getting hot but it's only warm and lower than your body temp. If the chip was 0 deg C and the rest of the board was below zero the chip will still be displayed in white because it would still be the warmest area.
I think the reflow made the change :) good job
Hi Steve, when you were doing your continuity testing did you still have power to the board? You should never check ohms or continuity while the unit is powered. Also, when continuity testing across power rails, remember to allow for the capacitors across the rails charging and making it appear there is a short across the power rail.
Another great video!, but we're gonna need some love on info on that outro song!
Since you think you isolated the faulty component to the coil, you could always remove the coil windings and coat them with most any type clear coating and re-wind it again. Than either use it or check it for a henry reading to know what that could be. Just an idea since you like to disassemble things...
A great I'd as always! But gonna need more of that theme tune!!
Did you measure the inductance after you’ve removed it? It seemed fried so maybe it was internally shorted. But even then in a non-switching power supply it shouldn’t be an issue.
The coil will have shorted internally. It's used in a filter circuit with a capacitor to reduce spikes at the voltage regulator making a smoother dc output. The switch inductor you put in will be fine the spike that blew the original was rare.
Epic win there pal.
It may have been the coil and broken solder joints on the chip does it sa A8B4M or ABBAM or any other combination of those letters and numbers.
You should always test a damaged components with your test device 2.2 micro Henry’s. It will always have continuity for it. It’s nearly a zero short it creates induction.
Yes those cheap component testers can test coils and any inductors. Could test the replacement coil to see if it is the same value too.
Gooood choice on the street fighter fix! I wonder if that's a known issue for the those, great vid!
Nice fix. Coils have specific inductance values that are picked to make certain circuits work. If that coil had got hot and some turns shorted, or if that chunk of ferrite top missing was due to a drop or knock, then the inductance would change and maybe be too much of a change for the circuit it is part of to continue to work as designed. It is a bit like if a 100 microfarad capacitor gets old and goes to 0.1 uF then something probably stops working. Similarly if a 2 micro henry inductor breaks and becomes 0.1 then something again probably stops working. The fact most inductors are pretty low resistance has nothing to do with what they are there for - its all about their micro henry value. Maybe some of this helps? As an aside, some of the cheap component testers can test inductors. If you were interested you could test the identical ok one on the circuit labelled 2R2 to see it's inductance (label means it should be 2.2 micro henry) then check the damaged one. It would be fun to see how near the Nintendo one you fitted was to the desired 2.2uH. Keep up the great work and think of the exercise you get when you forget stuff and leave it downstairs :)
I know you don't care, and I don't blame you - but the coil component is an inductor :)
Nice fix Ste!
Hi StezSfix, a quick warning for your "bad readings" at 07:19 is because you can't use the multimeter on continuous or resistance scale with the power supply ON. High voltage in this curcuits wil be burn the multimeter.⚠⚠⚠
Great outro, banger of an arcade piece as well!
Holy damn I love your videos. It is so nice, that you are not afraid to say that you have no idea if what you are doing is working or not.
£50 is an amazing price even non working as you could add a raspberry pi mod. :)
Because you would likely be dropping the voltage, that coil is part of a buck converter, it's the modern version of a regulator, the chip is probably a switching device, the coil provides a reactance and current limit, the chip and coil would be oscillating, if the coil is shorted, it will still show continuity, but wil not oscillate.
The step up version is called a boost converter
I would try to find a bigger coil as the one you used may not be able to carry the current for long periods.
I would say it was the reflow that made it work. It seemed like when you touched that little IC leg with the probe, it actually made contact with the pad and turned on.
Dude is that a new theme song at the end? We need to hear the full version it's awesome!
One thing's for sure: the leg on that chip had to be pulled to ground to start the booting process, and that's exactly what you did with the multimeter.
The inductor you put in may not support the same current through it as the last one. If the last one failed because of temperature, it may happen with this too and faster. Check the temps with the thermal camera after it's been on for a while.
10:32 I would have had a heart attack here... holy cow! 😂
I think you've just had a dry solder joint which you've fixed with the reflow. Just touching the joint has been enough to make the connection momentarily. Just like shorting the pins on a motherboard to start it.