This video help me out so much I run a lawn care business by myself. I have one industrial mower, that wouldn’t charge, I replaced all the parts and still couldn’t figure it out. But I watched your video and learned what goes where and was able to track down a broken wire inside of the connector between the battery and voltage regulator. Keep doing what you do. You saved me tons of time and money
My grandson bought a small fire extinguisher at Walmart, I said you bought other new zero turn and he said yes and they all have a fire extinguisher mounted on them 😊😊😊 I have a smart young man ❤
I just wanted to say thank you very much. Had a phantom headache for the last couple of months. Shop couldn’t find anything wrong. I did your video step by step and found a connector that was bad. I really appreciate your help and amazing video
Great vid. Still have a problem though. When I check the stator it has 30 volts ac. I check the regulator with the wire connected and the switch in the on position but not running it shows 12+ volts. However with the switch in the off position the regulator still shows 12+ volts. Even if I unplug the starting switch the voltage regulator still shows 12+ volts. I'm thinking the solenoid. When I park the mower the battery drains.
@stevea8011 If you are still getting 12 volts at the voltage regulator with the key Switch unplugged Then you have some wires melted together somewhere between the regulator and the key Switch. Trace that wire from regulator up to key Switch. There will be some connectors it goes thru. Check the connectors. Unplug them and look. There should be No Voltage at Regulator with Key in OFF Position. And No Voltage if Connector unplugged from Key Switch I'm assuming when you say Starting Switch your referring to Key Switch. Usually this is a Key Switch Problem But if your unplugging the keySwitch and still show 12 volts at regulator Then it's Not The key Switch
Your video is very easy to follow! I have a question for you. On the last step when I checked the wire running to the key switch, I had 12 1/2 V with the key off…. Could this be a bad switch?
@@sartingarage8045I have the same issue. The single wire is always hot. I disconnected the switch completely, and even installed a new switch-still hot. Was trying to Trace wire from voltage regulator back to switch, but it dead ends at the fuse box that is connect to the positive side of the battery. Your thoughts? Thanks! Much appreciated.
This video is a huge help! But what if you’re getting over 16 volts coming from the regulator? As in its OVER charging the battery? Is that also a sign the regulator is bad and needs to be replaced?
@DanielVia-zb7hr If the battery is weak or Not fully charged the charging System will put out 15 to 20 volts. Also even though the battery may start your engine, It could still be a bad battery not taking the full charge, Causing your charging system to constantly try to charge the battery. Not to say that there isn't something wrong with your charging system. But I would take the battery out and charge on Battery Charger. Reinstall battery and retest charging. Also do a load test and cranking amp test on your battery. Video links below And if you need a tool or Part I usually leave links in Description that you may need. Watch this Video below Destroying your Charging System Video th-cam.com/video/y9Hsb8yPeYE/w-d-xo.html Load Test Video th-cam.com/video/L19zTCYPCEw/w-d-xo.html Cranking Amp Tester th-cam.com/video/i6XLRmesFIs/w-d-xo.html
What if I am getting 60v from the stator and the brand new voltage regulator (after market) is putting out 20v? Overcharging my battery. I think this killed my PTO clutch as well. I just replaced that as well. John Deere STX38 Kohler CV13S. Thanks and a great video.
@richarddaprato1349 Are you boosting or Jump Starting the Mower? If the battery is completely dead the charging system will put out 20 + volts. Never boost mowers with Voltage Regulators.. It can and will destroy the battery and charging System. As for 60v out of stator that's a bit high. Are you checking this Voltage on the stator with the Stator unplugged from Voltage Regulator. If not , unplug from Voltage Regulator and test. If the voltage is around 30v with unplugged, May have something shorting out. Like maybe ignition Coil allowing spark to go to Ground causing this High Voltage of 60v.
We have a 20A fuse that runs between the key switch and voltage regulator. It keeps blowing, not quite instantly, but within a minute or 2. This is on a Kawasaki 38.5 EFI engine. Any ideas on the cause? Scag Cheetah 2 mower. Thank you for a good video!
Hi, nice video.. my battery kept going dead, on mine the B+ wire is red and I have 12 volts there ALL THE TIME. That wire goes right to a fuse then to the battery??, if I leave it disconnected when mower is OFF, the battery stays charged?
@tomsnow3411 If the red wire your talking about is the charging wire from regulator and it had 12 volts there with key Switch ON or Off. There should be NO Voltage there with key switch in off position. I would test key switch. Here is a link to testing key switch th-cam.com/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/w-d-xo.html
I just picked up a toro time cutter 4235 with a 20hp kohler. The stator is putting out 32-33 volts ac. Is that enough? Im not getting 14 volts at the battery.
Stator should be fine, With key on check for battery voltage on the output wire at regulator. If there isn't voltage there. Then the problem is wiring or key Switch. If there is voltage there check voltage regulator Base Ground. There is usually a jumper Wire from base of regulator to shroud. Kohler is bad to lose ground at plastic shroud. If base is grounded. Replace Voltage Regulator Here is Kohler Charging System Test Video. Although it's basically the same on the Kawasaki. There is tips in this Video on testing Kohler Voltage Regulator jumper Wire Ground. th-cam.com/video/5_9TMpZr7v8/w-d-xo.html
I need your help buddy I have replaced my stater, starter, solenoid, battery, safety switches, ignition, switch, ignition coil, spark plugs everything that I can think of for the charging system. So now the key will engage the starter motor will engage and the gear assembly will come up to the flywheel but will not spin it or if it does spin, it will rotate past the first ignition coil but locks up after passing the coil. At this point I have to manually disengage the arm on the starter then rotate the flywheel counterclockwise back past the ignition coil. This continues to happen.
@Bobjohnjamesable First thing I would check is the Compression Those engines have a compression Release on the Camshaft that releases Compression until engine starts. Pull both Sparkplugs out Screw in Compression gauge in one of the cylinders And then check the other one Should be around 70 psi if Compression Release is working. Check this and will go from there
Look for rat and mice damage to wires and harness, also look for places it could have run into harness Make sure the voltage regulator is grounded to engine or lose connection
Good info. On my Cub Cadet, the single wire is always hot. Doesn’t matter if switch is on or off. It’s straight wired to the fuse box on the positive side of the battery. Anyone else find this?
@georgrettich1692 Sort of There is a stator under Flywheel that produces AC current. The two wires coming out from under shroud that go to Voltage Regulator. The Voltage Regulator also switches the Voltage from AC Current to DC Current. Which is What the Battery is DC current. That's how it charges the battery.
My battery keeps going dead. I have constant draw of around 12v DC on the charging wire to the regulator. Can you confirm that I should not have a constant draw to the regulator? I am thinking key switch may be bad but how do I test and verify problem?
I have John Deere 757 ZTrak with new battery and starter/alternator and when you turn the key, you just here the starter go clink or clunk. So, I can't even start it to test appropriately.
Is it the starter going clunk or the starter Solenoid. If the starter Solenoid is mounted seperate. I'm thinking the solenoid is engaging but not connecting the 2 posts together inside solenoid Here is a Video to test solenoid Your solenoid may look different but works the same th-cam.com/video/IoC_VKktHSc/w-d-xo.html
These system is not designed to be charging up bad battery, it is designed to maintain the battery at full charge System will surely fail if you have a bad battery
It’s not good to boost a vehicle eather because it’s going to overheat the alternator trying to charge up a battery or if battery bad it possible to have to replace alt and battery to fix system
Because the system is not designed to be a battery charger but to maintain the full charge It’s going to overheat the items and wires and system will fail 😢
Very clear and concise 👍🏼
This video help me out so much I run a lawn care business by myself. I have one industrial mower, that wouldn’t charge, I replaced all the parts and still couldn’t figure it out. But I watched your video and learned what goes where and was able to track down a broken wire inside of the connector between the battery and voltage regulator. Keep doing what you do. You saved me tons of time and money
One of the most solid TH-cam University videos I've ever seen. Thank you sir
My grandson bought a small fire extinguisher at Walmart, I said you bought other new zero turn and he said yes and they all have a fire extinguisher mounted on them 😊😊😊
I have a smart young man ❤
I just wanted to say thank you very much. Had a phantom headache for the last couple of months. Shop couldn’t find anything wrong. I did your video step by step and found a connector that was bad. I really appreciate your help and amazing video
I’d find another shop… pronto.. especially if got charged a diagnosis fee…!!!…😮
This is a fantastic guide fixed the charging issue on my gravely mower. Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you for your teachings.God bless you
great video with one of the best explanations. well done.
Small variations from different makes, but you just saved me a lot of work and time… I was ready to change an electronic clutch….🤠…
Great vid. Still have a problem though. When I check the stator it has 30 volts ac. I check the regulator with the wire connected and the switch in the on position but not running it shows 12+ volts. However with the switch in the off position the regulator still shows 12+ volts. Even if I unplug the starting switch the voltage regulator still shows 12+ volts. I'm thinking the solenoid. When I park the mower the battery drains.
@stevea8011
If you are still getting 12 volts at the voltage regulator with the key Switch unplugged
Then you have some wires melted together somewhere between the regulator and the key Switch.
Trace that wire from regulator up to key Switch.
There will be some connectors it goes thru.
Check the connectors. Unplug them and look.
There should be No Voltage at Regulator with Key in OFF Position.
And No Voltage if Connector unplugged from Key Switch
I'm assuming when you say Starting Switch your referring to Key Switch.
Usually this is a Key Switch Problem
But if your unplugging the keySwitch and still show 12 volts at regulator
Then it's Not The key Switch
Great video, man!! Saved me a trip to kubota!! Thank you.
Your video is very easy to follow! I have a question for you. On the last step when I checked the wire running to the key switch, I had 12 1/2 V with the key off…. Could this be a bad switch?
@jasonmillican5551
Yes sir
Most likely shorted out key switch
Tip
Unplug the Switch Connector
Recheck Voltage
Should be gone
No Voltage
Bad Key Switch
@@sartingarage8045I have the same issue. The single wire is always hot. I disconnected the switch completely, and even installed a new switch-still hot. Was trying to Trace wire from voltage regulator back to switch, but it dead ends at the fuse box that is connect to the positive side of the battery. Your thoughts?
Thanks! Much appreciated.
@daniellee3791
What brand and model mower ?
Does it look as if this wire has been modified and ran to a fuse box?
This video is a huge help! But what if you’re getting over 16 volts coming from the regulator? As in its OVER charging the battery? Is that also a sign the regulator is bad and needs to be replaced?
@DanielVia-zb7hr
If the battery is weak or Not fully charged the charging System will put out 15 to 20 volts.
Also even though the battery may start your engine, It could still be a bad battery not taking the full charge, Causing your charging system to constantly try to charge the battery.
Not to say that there isn't something wrong with your charging system.
But I would take the battery out and charge on Battery Charger. Reinstall battery and retest charging. Also do a load test and cranking amp test on your battery.
Video links below
And if you need a tool or Part
I usually leave links in Description that you may need.
Watch this Video below
Destroying your Charging System Video
th-cam.com/video/y9Hsb8yPeYE/w-d-xo.html
Load Test Video
th-cam.com/video/L19zTCYPCEw/w-d-xo.html
Cranking Amp Tester
th-cam.com/video/i6XLRmesFIs/w-d-xo.html
What if I am getting 60v from the stator and the brand new voltage regulator (after market) is putting out 20v? Overcharging my battery. I think this killed my PTO clutch as well. I just replaced that as well. John Deere STX38 Kohler CV13S. Thanks and a great video.
@richarddaprato1349
Are you boosting or Jump Starting the Mower? If the battery is completely dead the charging system will put out 20 + volts.
Never boost mowers with Voltage Regulators.. It can and will destroy the battery and charging System.
As for 60v out of stator that's a bit high.
Are you checking this Voltage on the stator with the Stator unplugged from Voltage Regulator.
If not , unplug from Voltage Regulator and test. If the voltage is around 30v with unplugged, May have something shorting out. Like maybe ignition Coil allowing spark to go to Ground causing this High Voltage of 60v.
We have a 20A fuse that runs between the key switch and voltage regulator. It keeps blowing, not quite instantly, but within a minute or 2. This is on a Kawasaki 38.5 EFI engine. Any ideas on the cause? Scag Cheetah 2 mower. Thank you for a good video!
@tallfarmboy
Most common cause of this is faulty Key Switch. Here is key Switch Test Video.
th-cam.com/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/w-d-xo.html
great video and explanation for charging circuit.
Hi, nice video.. my battery kept going dead, on mine the B+ wire is red and I have 12 volts there ALL THE TIME. That wire goes right to a fuse then to the battery??, if I leave it disconnected when mower is OFF, the battery stays charged?
@tomsnow3411
If the red wire your talking about is the charging wire from regulator and it had 12 volts there with key Switch ON or Off.
There should be NO Voltage there with key switch in off position. I would test key switch.
Here is a link to testing key switch
th-cam.com/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/w-d-xo.html
You were going to explain why not to charge the battery with the mower and reason to use a charger.
@edwardnemec7611
This is the Video for reason not to boost or charge Dead Battery with Mower
th-cam.com/video/y9Hsb8yPeYE/w-d-xo.html
What if my kawasaki in my Husqvarna mower is reading maximum and fluctuating on the ammeter when running occasionally goes to zero
Just a guess
But seems a short in wiring or connector or key Switch is shorted
Great job. Thank you.
I just picked up a toro time cutter 4235 with a 20hp kohler. The stator is putting out 32-33 volts ac. Is that enough? Im not getting 14 volts at the battery.
Stator should be fine, With key on check for battery voltage on the output wire at regulator. If there isn't voltage there. Then the problem is wiring or key Switch.
If there is voltage there check voltage regulator Base Ground. There is usually a jumper Wire from base of regulator to shroud. Kohler is bad to lose ground at plastic shroud. If base is grounded.
Replace Voltage Regulator
Here is Kohler Charging System Test Video.
Although it's basically the same on the Kawasaki. There is tips in this Video on testing Kohler Voltage Regulator jumper Wire Ground.
th-cam.com/video/5_9TMpZr7v8/w-d-xo.html
Are you based out of Greenville TX? There is a small engine dealer here in town named Satin's.
No
I'm located in Tennessee
Is he still in business, from West Texas 😊
I need your help buddy I have replaced my stater, starter, solenoid, battery, safety switches, ignition, switch, ignition coil, spark plugs everything that I can think of for the charging system. So now the key will engage the starter motor will engage and the gear assembly will come up to the flywheel but will not spin it or if it does spin, it will rotate past the first ignition coil but locks up after passing the coil. At this point I have to manually disengage the arm on the starter then rotate the flywheel counterclockwise back past the ignition coil. This continues to happen.
@Bobjohnjamesable
First thing I would check is the Compression
Those engines have a compression Release on the Camshaft that releases Compression until engine starts.
Pull both Sparkplugs out
Screw in Compression gauge in one of the cylinders
And then check the other one
Should be around 70 psi if Compression Release is working.
Check this and will go from there
@@sartingarage8045 I will give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks!
Is battery in backwards ???
Excellent video thank you!
I like your video intro
Thank you
Look for rat and mice damage to wires and harness, also look for places it could have run into harness
Make sure the voltage regulator is grounded to engine or lose connection
Good info. On my Cub Cadet, the single wire is always hot. Doesn’t matter if switch is on or off. It’s straight wired to the fuse box on the positive side of the battery. Anyone else find this?
Cub Cadet may have put a Relay in line and it maybe in that fuse box or hidden somewhere else.
Nice explanation. Thanks
Great job in real English
Does the FR730V have an alternator?
@georgrettich1692
Sort of
There is a stator under Flywheel that produces AC current. The two wires coming out from under shroud that go to Voltage Regulator. The Voltage Regulator also switches the Voltage from AC Current to DC Current. Which is What the Battery is DC current. That's how it charges the battery.
Thanks! Excellent video
Great video! Thanks
My battery keeps going dead. I have constant draw of around 12v DC on the charging wire to the regulator. Can you confirm that I should not have a constant draw to the regulator? I am thinking key switch may be bad but how do I test and verify problem?
I will post you some links here shortly
Key Switch Test Video
th-cam.com/video/rOqwb0KaHQI/w-d-xo.html
Amp Draw Test
th-cam.com/video/7f2dR0rT1fw/w-d-xo.html
Where’s the single wire dc volt going
Key Switch
Usually terminal A1
I have John Deere 757 ZTrak with new battery and starter/alternator and when you turn the key, you just here the starter go clink or clunk. So, I can't even start it to test appropriately.
Is it the starter going clunk or the starter Solenoid. If the starter Solenoid is mounted seperate. I'm thinking the solenoid is engaging but not connecting the 2 posts together inside solenoid
Here is a Video to test solenoid
Your solenoid may look different but works the same
th-cam.com/video/IoC_VKktHSc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. Yes, the starter and solenoid are connected. Solenoid is mounted on the starter. I'll watch the video.
@@sartingarage8045
Awesome
These system is not designed to be charging up bad battery, it is designed to maintain the battery at full charge
System will surely fail if you have a bad battery
It’s not good to boost a vehicle eather because it’s going to overheat the alternator trying to charge up a battery or if battery bad it possible to have to replace alt and battery to fix system
Yes sir. When you boost a dead battery in vehicle. Alternator will go full output.
Why shouldn't we jump it?
th-cam.com/video/y9Hsb8yPeYE/w-d-xo.html
Because the system is not designed to be a battery charger but to maintain the full charge
It’s going to overheat the items and wires and system will fail 😢
this is a stupid add and way to long......
Some just don't want to learn
They want push a button to fix and there isn't one