The most simplified, thorough, well shot and edited video on fork maintenance out there!! You are really good att keeping the script focused and precise, for other u-tubers to follow! Thanks! 👌
I would just like to thank you for the fantastic video's you have taken the time to post and share with the rest of us on the FJR. I recently picked up a very low mileage 1st generation FJR with quite a few issues with it and your vids helped me immensely. I enjoy working and restoring motorcycles and watching these tips is very satisfying.
Hi Mike, hope all is well for you & yours in 2024. I'm back because...after my 'perfect' rebuild I find oil on the garage floor after the winter break coming from the left fork. Went for a short (60 mile) ride and the next morning quite a bit more of oil on the floor. Any suggestions? Or do I have to do this all over again?! Update: watched some videos on using the seal mate tool (DIY) and gonna try that first. I'll get back to you here about my success/failure ratio... Addendum: well, that was kinda good for nothing...had to take the weight off the front end (floor jack to center stand) to expose that critical inch of fork (😛) to get the dust cap off but no matter where or how I could not get the Seal Mate to work! Managed to get it stuck in there but no way it was going to rotate around the fork 'a few times'. Joke's on me I supposed. Wiped everything down and cleaned it up, maybe my magic fingers succeeded where my pea-brain could not 🙃 Cheerios Mike! Addendum: took the leaker apart this morning and removed the guts (I really should've replaced the seals and bushings but they're almost new so I didn't). Not much oil left inside...lo and behold I found a mangled piece of plastic wrap in the works (that seal mate would not have been able to remove that). Your suggestion to use that as a softener to protect the seal when sliding it on over the inner tube. Didn't work well for me! Thanks again for EVERYTHING you've done for the FJR community - you are the go-to guy!
I think the reason I broke the valve was because I was paying more attention to talking on camera than focusing on what I was doing. Yes, it's a little challenging if your replacing the seals and bushings. I should have mentioned that if your just doing an oil change, you don't need to take out the cartridge's.
Well Mike...if you can do it...🙂 Found oil on my horn/radiator area behind my RH fork so I guess I have to tackle this job too. Not excited about it - I don't even have a bench vice, lol!
Hello, I feel your pain. Take your time and take pictures. It's not hard. Just make sure the cartridge is fully bottomed before tightening the bottom bolt. My mistake that cost me. If you do not have the manual, I have it available at: drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk
Got 'er dun. Not too messy but sure went through a roll of paper towel by the time I was finished! Nice to get the fork bodies cleaned up (scotchbrite works good on bug-blood). I bought a PVC adapter as you suggested - but it wouldn't fit with the fork guard in place (manual said not to remove them unless replacing with new ones so I didn't). But...I used a piece of 2" ABS (black drain) pipe cut at 14" and capped it with a piece of wood - perfect fit. When mounting the shock body in the vertical position, put a block of wood (used an old piece of 4X4 cut to length) for the bottom of in to sit on to take care of the pounding when setting the upper bushing & oil seal. Everything went well and managed to torque everything on re-assembly. Thanks again for your help - you da' mang 🙂
Glad everything worked out. Not sure why the manual says not to remove the guards. Maybe they're afraid they might crack. I just used a piece of wood and a mallet, pop off and on without problems. Anyway, glad everything is working. Thanks, Mike
That's some really informative insight ! Cool ! Very cool !! Just found your channel, I'm happy to support you and other fellow motovloggers. Best of luck with your efforts, I look forward to seeing more from you. Take care and ride safe out there 💯💯👍👍
Getting there. In the video you used the fork oil level guage...you pumped until it sucked air which sets the level of the oil to the correct height. Why is this necessary? Can I not simply add the exact amount of oil specified and call it a day?
The manual specifies the height of the oil from the top. If there is oil trapped inside the fork, adding oil by measurement may set the level too high and unbalanced between sides.
Good video, Ive had these fitted to in the past to ZZR1400, they work very well and best upgrade to existing forks, any reason you didnt upgrade springs to Linear 10's as the FJR renowned for being "Soft" front and rear; and standard springs are progressive and tto soft? Im in UK and live close to K Tech and will be gettig this done by them to my FJR with uprated Springs, then upgrade rear shock to improve ride and match my new front end.
No real reason other than I did not have the money at the time to do both. After the upgrade, the frontend handled much better. I'm sure the springs would make it even better. I'm not getting a lot of sag and I have not moved them from the stock k-tech settings.
Hello, well I've already replaced the tensioner when I bought the bike before this channel. Maybe when I do a valve check video, I can cover the tensioner. Warning, if the timing chain accidentally jumps a tooth and it's not detected, it could cause catastrophic engine damage. So with that said, here is the procedure. First open the side timing chain cover and take a picture of the timing chains position. put a wire tie all the way around both sides of the timing chain to hold the chain tight and to prevent the chain from loosing. We need to make sure the timing chain does not slip. If it does slip then the timing cover needs to come off and a full timing chain alignment would have to be done. Once the timing chain is secure, remove the plastic plug in the frame near the tensioner. Now here's the hard part, through the hole in the frame remove the two bolts holding the tensioner. I remember it was a pita to get them out. They are on each side of the tensioner. Maybe use a flexible socket driver. Anyway, once you get them out you can finagle the tensioner past the frame. Now finagle the new tensioner past the frame and into the engine, being carefull not to dislodge the metal lock plate on the end of the tensioner. Once it's in place, it's time to replace the bolts. I could not for the life of me get the bolts back in. I then bought two new m6 bolts with a allen key hex head. This way I could use a long swivel allen key hex socket with a small piece of tape to hold the bolt on the end of the allen key. Carefully insert the allen key with the bolt into the hole in the frame and into the tensioner. Tighten and repeat for the second bolt. Torque to 80 in lbs. Now reach into the frame hole with a pair of thin needle nose pliers and pull out the lock plate. The tensioner should release, pressing on the timing chain guide. Now remove the wire tie and verify the timing chain is tight and has not moved. Replace the timing chain cover. Good luck. Mike
What year is this FJR? I have a 2012 and it has 3 bushings inside and hammering the seal out like that totally trashes the lower inner bushing. Of course mine were already worn out so it didn't matter. Got a new set on order. Sadly trying to find a tool to install the middle bushing looks to be impossible, so I get to Gerry Rig something.
It's a 05. Just had a seal, washer, two bushings. Didn't have any issues getting it apart. Many rebuilders do it the same way. Manual also says the same. Yes the washer always gets replaced along with the bushing. Thanks, mike
Did you do a video for the Cam Chain Tensioner change-out? I think you mentioned that you changed yours (the Vicious Rumors!) but I can't seem to find a video...
Hello, I did change the tensioner, but it was when I first got the bike, before the channel. Someday, I might make a video of valve check and cam chain replacement.
Did mine...took my 10mm ratcheting box-end wrench to the bench grinder to remove meat then it worked fine. Slotted the 3 bolts after (Dremel) for ease of re-assembly. Used the old gasket (oops, sorry Yamaha manual ;-) ) but there was no way to torque the bolts to any sort of torque other than by guess and by golly. Not leaking anyway...didn't notice any change afterwards, but can't put a price on piece of mind. Lots of info on converting the stock CCT to a manual (springless) version to bypass this issue entirely.
great! yea, putting the bolts back is a pita. When I used hex heads, I could use a swivel hex socket and reach both screws. I thought about as manual tensioner, but I did not want to under or over tighten the chain. One thing I noticed, there is a colored dot on the tensioner. The original was one color and the new one was a different color. Not sure what that represents. I think it may have been revised and the color specifies the revision. Just a theory. Maybe somebody out there knows more about the history. Thanks, Mike.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 According to the forum (really the only go-to source for this) no color or blue color is old and crappy, needs to have a green dot (2008 apparently). I noticed after mine was installed I can't see the dot 😞 Ah, life...
Thanks, that's what I thought. It's been awhile since I've looked it up. I remembered something like that. Didn't want to speak out of terms. Thanks mike
This awesome. I've been wanting to do this for a while, just didn't know how. Qustion...where is the rebound valve that you did the upgrade to and is this only necessary if it's broken or a good thing to do while we're in there? I have a 2004 with 24K.
Hello, there are on the cartridge. Compression valve is on the bottom and the rebound is inside the cartridge on the end of the piston rod. Check the end of the video 19:06 for the upgrade. 24k, No your good, bushing as well. Just dump the oil after taking the cap off, remove the spring. and refill. No need to fully disassemble. it is not necessary. I broke mine, ugh... I did have 95000 miles on them and the seals were leaking. Once the seals leak, that's when the bushings get serviced. However, this upgrade did enhance the performance. You would have to contact the manufacturer to see if they can get it from the UK. I believe they can upgrade them for you as well. There is the cutting of the push rod and the drilling of the end of the piston rod. There was no instructions so I was a little nervous doing unreversable mod. So, I double and triple checked what I was doing. I did not even do audio while videoing, just so I was not distracted. Hope this helps, thanks
Hi again Mike :-) I can see 24 ounces is 681,9134 ml. In the user Manual for 2003 model, it says 66,4 ml. Mine is an '04 model and I guess it is the same (your is a '05?) - so is the forks different from each other in the Gen 1 series?
Hello, according to the service manual that covers all of gen 1 from 01-05, it says 70ml @ 79mm, however the 2003 supplement says 66.4ml @ 104mm. I don't see a change from 2003 to 2004. I don't have a 2005 supplement service manual. From what info I can gather, 2004 covers 2005. So I assume the change happened in 2003. Using less oil will make the forks slightly softer. My forks were soft before and I had the settings cranked. When I did this video I also did the conversion to the fork cartridges. It had its own specifications for oil. So, I can't say if 70ml felt better than 66.4ml. Unless I'm missing something in the manuals, I don't see a design change between years. Maybe I can look up part numbers to see if there is a difference. Mike
Hello, In the triple tree the fork sits just above the clamps about an 1/8" or a few millimeters. Just make them the same height. Rotation is not an issue as once they are installed. The bottom of the fork can rotate to line up with the axle. Hope this helps, mike
SO Great video Mike :-) Q: DO you have a link to the Reference Diagram? I am doing mine forks on my 04 model now :-) Thank you in advance! (FJR Norway) PS: My forks suddenly started to leak from the bottom when parked the bide indoors for the winter. Most of the oil have now leaked out.... Did not see any leaks before that. Strange?
Hello, I made available the service manual for the 01-05 FJR at the following link. drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk
I can't believe how spotless your bike is! Mine is so ratched (at 1/3 the mileage) - think the PO used it for a wheelie monster trainer!! Why do I think so? All the fairings are scraped and scratched (and one side even brush-painted with color-match lacquer!) and the rear plastic fender liner was cut off with a hacksaw (not even straight!) above the license plate bracket (which I subsequently replaced). Ah well, it was a decent price with low miles ($4000 @ 30K kms). Some people 😛
Yes, I think from your description your right. Unfortunately, a few years ago I dropped the bike performing a K turn on a sloped driveway when I stalled it. Dropped it on the right side. Front right cowling, right Fairing and case damage. I bought a Chinese fairing kit to fix the fairings. Not as heavy as factory, but it's not bad, aliment was surprisingly good. Just the holes needed to be reemed out for size. The paint matches with the rest of the bike. On the flat surface on the fairing the paint has a little orange peel. So, the quality of the paint is not as good as factory, but it's not bad and it's not really noticeable unless I'm looking for it. I'm going to swap the front as well as the left side to match the logos. All I looked at every time I walked up to the bike was the scratches. Still looking for a clean replacement shell for the case. Thanks, Mike
Why would you use grease to hold the piece in tube when you could use gravity? put the tube with the bottom facing up, put the piece in the tube and slide the outer housing down over the tube all while looking at the little bolt hole to see if it's seated.
This was a tip from k-tech in one of their videos to help prevent shifting of the cup in the bottom and also makes the assembly a lot easier. Let me explain. What you don't see is: during videoing I did assemble as a stack and slide the tube over. That's how I broke the valve. What you have to do to assemble the way you are describing is: remember if you put the cup in the end of the tube, it will just drop through. So, you have to hold the tube, then slide the cartridge into the tube, slide the cup into the tube and onto the top of the cartridge. Now lower the base onto the stack and get it to drop into a ridge on the cup. Now while holding the hole assembly, put the bolt in and finger tighten with an allen wrench. Well, the first time it went ok, but it was out of camera frame while shooting. So I did it a second time. However, during the process of holding the stack and putting the bolt in, the cup shifted off the ridge on the cup without me seeing it. When I started to tighten the bolt down, the lower valve snapped. I had very little pressure applied, with the cup not being in place correctly, the lower valve twisted and snapped before it was even close to being tight. Assembling the way k-tech suggested, allows the cup to align easier. Your not trying to hold everything together. The Grease helps in seating the cup into the bottom and also helps with accidental shifting of the cup. It also allows for better inspection of the cup after assembly. The little bit of grease will eventually dissolve. Mike.
Hi Mike I have a question nothing to do with forks! I have nearly 16v reading on the bike and I think it's the voltage regulator. I not looked yet but where will I find it to get to it. We have exactly the same bike and can I replace it with a compatible rather than stupid amounts of money from dealer. Thanks in advance
Yes, sounds like the regulator assuming the battery is good. It's under the left fairing behind the radiator cap on the frame. As long as it's a good aftermarket regulator. Hope this helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 hi Mike all electrics perfect on the bike was a Chinese usb adapter that has a voltmeter built in to it that was displaying the wrong reading. I put a multimeter across the battery terminals and confirmed!
Hello Mike. Any chance you can do the same job on my bike? I have the same exact bike. Obviously for any price you name. I had the worst experiences with the local Yamaha dealer and I trust you a 1000% more. Thank you
Hello, thank you for the offer and gracious comments. Yes, I can do it. Are you located near NJ. Are we talking just replacing the bushings or upgrading the forks like I did? Email me at fjr1300gps@gmail.com to talk further. Thank You , Mike
Waaaaaaayyyyy too tight on the bottom bolt lucky you didn't break it again.let it bottom out and snug it good with a 3)8 drive ratchet.thats all ya gotta do.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
Many thanks for this excellent video, Mike. You struck the perfect balance of providing valuable supplementary info and still maintaining a good pace.
That is the best how-to video I've seen. Thanks.
The most simplified, thorough, well shot and edited video on fork maintenance out there!! You are really good att keeping the script focused and precise, for other u-tubers to follow! Thanks! 👌
Thanks
Thanks, you saved me from pulling whats left of my hair.
Thanks. As you can see, I've already pulled mine. Lol.
Thank you so much for all of your effort in this very complete video and all of your other one's as well!!!
You're welcome!
It was a very nice and useful video. Thank you. Nice job mike 👍🏻🙋🏻♂️
I would just like to thank you for the fantastic video's you have taken the time to post and share with the rest of us on the FJR. I recently picked up a very low mileage 1st generation FJR with quite a few issues with it and your vids helped me immensely. I enjoy working and restoring motorcycles and watching these tips is very satisfying.
Thanks, Mike
Your braver than me. Nice job.
Thanks!
Hi Mike, hope all is well for you & yours in 2024. I'm back because...after my 'perfect' rebuild I find oil on the garage floor after the winter break coming from the left fork. Went for a short (60 mile) ride and the next morning quite a bit more of oil on the floor. Any suggestions? Or do I have to do this all over again?! Update: watched some videos on using the seal mate tool (DIY) and gonna try that first. I'll get back to you here about my success/failure ratio...
Addendum: well, that was kinda good for nothing...had to take the weight off the front end (floor jack to center stand) to expose that critical inch of fork (😛) to get the dust cap off but no matter where or how I could not get the Seal Mate to work! Managed to get it stuck in there but no way it was going to rotate around the fork 'a few times'. Joke's on me I supposed. Wiped everything down and cleaned it up, maybe my magic fingers succeeded where my pea-brain could not 🙃 Cheerios Mike!
Addendum: took the leaker apart this morning and removed the guts (I really should've replaced the seals and bushings but they're almost new so I didn't). Not much oil left inside...lo and behold I found a mangled piece of plastic wrap in the works (that seal mate would not have been able to remove that). Your suggestion to use that as a softener to protect the seal when sliding it on over the inner tube. Didn't work well for me! Thanks again for EVERYTHING you've done for the FJR community - you are the go-to guy!
Thanks. You are very thorough. I had watched another video and thought that I wanted to tackle this. Now I am not so sure. Great video nonetheless.
I think the reason I broke the valve was because I was paying more attention to talking on camera than focusing on what I was doing. Yes, it's a little challenging if your replacing the seals and bushings. I should have mentioned that if your just doing an oil change, you don't need to take out the cartridge's.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I have one leaking a little.
Great video thanks again for excellent explaining 👍
Thanks
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I be interested in how the updated ones work for you please let us know
Ha ha I see you got handlebar risers . I was scratching my head wondering how you got a 24 mm socket on the shock cap😂😂😂
Well Mike...if you can do it...🙂 Found oil on my horn/radiator area behind my RH fork so I guess I have to tackle this job too. Not excited about it - I don't even have a bench vice, lol!
Hello, I feel your pain. Take your time and take pictures. It's not hard. Just make sure the cartridge is fully bottomed before tightening the bottom bolt. My mistake that cost me. If you do not have the manual, I have it available at: drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Yes - I thanked you over there for that, properly hyper-linked and everything! Ordered the parts today...
Got 'er dun. Not too messy but sure went through a roll of paper towel by the time I was finished! Nice to get the fork bodies cleaned up (scotchbrite works good on bug-blood). I bought a PVC adapter as you suggested - but it wouldn't fit with the fork guard in place (manual said not to remove them unless replacing with new ones so I didn't). But...I used a piece of 2" ABS (black drain) pipe cut at 14" and capped it with a piece of wood - perfect fit. When mounting the shock body in the vertical position, put a block of wood (used an old piece of 4X4 cut to length) for the bottom of in to sit on to take care of the pounding when setting the upper bushing & oil seal. Everything went well and managed to torque everything on re-assembly. Thanks again for your help - you da' mang 🙂
Glad everything worked out. Not sure why the manual says not to remove the guards. Maybe they're afraid they might crack. I just used a piece of wood and a mallet, pop off and on without problems. Anyway, glad everything is working. Thanks, Mike
That's some really informative insight ! Cool ! Very cool !! Just found your channel, I'm happy to support you and other fellow motovloggers. Best of luck with your efforts, I look forward to seeing more from you. Take care and ride safe out there 💯💯👍👍
Thanks.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 @mikesfjrcorner7129 👍
Getting there. In the video you used the fork oil level guage...you pumped until it sucked air which sets the level of the oil to the correct height. Why is this necessary? Can I not simply add the exact amount of oil specified and call it a day?
Ok, I know the answer. Aberrations, variances, and anomalies - it's as Murphy plans it 🙂
The manual specifies the height of the oil from the top. If there is oil trapped inside the fork, adding oil by measurement may set the level too high and unbalanced between sides.
You want the right air gap.regardless of how much oil you put in.
Good video, Ive had these fitted to in the past to ZZR1400, they work very well and best upgrade to existing forks, any reason you didnt upgrade springs to Linear 10's as the FJR renowned for being "Soft" front and rear; and standard springs are progressive and tto soft? Im in UK and live close to K Tech and will be gettig this done by them to my FJR with uprated Springs, then upgrade rear shock to improve ride and match my new front end.
No real reason other than I did not have the money at the time to do both. After the upgrade, the frontend handled much better. I'm sure the springs would make it even better. I'm not getting a lot of sag and I have not moved them from the stock k-tech settings.
Hi Mike can you please do a video on replacing the cam chain tensioner please! 😊
Hello, well I've already replaced the tensioner when I bought the bike before this channel. Maybe when I do a valve check video, I can cover the tensioner.
Warning, if the timing chain accidentally jumps a tooth and it's not detected, it could cause catastrophic engine damage.
So with that said, here is the procedure. First open the side timing chain cover and take a picture of the timing chains position. put a wire tie all the way around both sides of the timing chain to hold the chain tight and to prevent the chain from loosing. We need to make sure the timing chain does not slip. If it does slip then the timing cover needs to come off and a full timing chain alignment would have to be done.
Once the timing chain is secure, remove the plastic plug in the frame near the tensioner. Now here's the hard part, through the hole in the frame remove the two bolts holding the tensioner. I remember it was a pita to get them out. They are on each side of the tensioner. Maybe use a flexible socket driver. Anyway, once you get them out you can finagle the tensioner past the frame.
Now finagle the new tensioner past the frame and into the engine, being carefull not to dislodge the metal lock plate on the end of the tensioner. Once it's in place, it's time to replace the bolts. I could not for the life of me get the bolts back in. I then bought two new m6 bolts with a allen key hex head. This way I could use a long swivel allen key hex socket with a small piece of tape to hold the bolt on the end of the allen key.
Carefully insert the allen key with the bolt into the hole in the frame and into the tensioner. Tighten and repeat for the second bolt. Torque to 80 in lbs.
Now reach into the frame hole with a pair of thin needle nose pliers and pull out the lock plate. The tensioner should release, pressing on the timing chain guide.
Now remove the wire tie and verify the timing chain is tight and has not moved. Replace the timing chain cover.
Good luck. Mike
What year is this FJR? I have a 2012 and it has 3 bushings inside and hammering the seal out like that totally trashes the lower inner bushing. Of course mine were already worn out so it didn't matter. Got a new set on order. Sadly trying to find a tool to install the middle bushing looks to be impossible, so I get to Gerry Rig something.
It's a 05. Just had a seal, washer, two bushings. Didn't have any issues getting it apart. Many rebuilders do it the same way. Manual also says the same. Yes the washer always gets replaced along with the bushing. Thanks, mike
Did you do a video for the Cam Chain Tensioner change-out? I think you mentioned that you changed yours (the Vicious Rumors!) but I can't seem to find a video...
Hello, I did change the tensioner, but it was when I first got the bike, before the channel. Someday, I might make a video of valve check and cam chain replacement.
Did mine...took my 10mm ratcheting box-end wrench to the bench grinder to remove meat then it worked fine. Slotted the 3 bolts after (Dremel) for ease of re-assembly. Used the old gasket (oops, sorry Yamaha manual ;-) ) but there was no way to torque the bolts to any sort of torque other than by guess and by golly. Not leaking anyway...didn't notice any change afterwards, but can't put a price on piece of mind. Lots of info on converting the stock CCT to a manual (springless) version to bypass this issue entirely.
great! yea, putting the bolts back is a pita. When I used hex heads, I could use a swivel hex socket and reach both screws. I thought about as manual tensioner, but I did not want to under or over tighten the chain. One thing I noticed, there is a colored dot on the tensioner. The original was one color and the new one was a different color. Not sure what that represents. I think it may have been revised and the color specifies the revision. Just a theory. Maybe somebody out there knows more about the history. Thanks, Mike.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 According to the forum (really the only go-to source for this) no color or blue color is old and crappy, needs to have a green dot (2008 apparently). I noticed after mine was installed I can't see the dot 😞 Ah, life...
Thanks, that's what I thought. It's been awhile since I've looked it up. I remembered something like that. Didn't want to speak out of terms. Thanks mike
This awesome. I've been wanting to do this for a while, just didn't know how. Qustion...where is the rebound valve that you did the upgrade to and is this only necessary if it's broken or a good thing to do while we're in there? I have a 2004 with 24K.
Hello, there are on the cartridge. Compression valve is on the bottom and the rebound is inside the cartridge on the end of the piston rod. Check the end of the video 19:06 for the upgrade.
24k, No your good, bushing as well. Just dump the oil after taking the cap off, remove the spring. and refill. No need to fully disassemble. it is not necessary. I broke mine, ugh... I did have 95000 miles on them and the seals were leaking. Once the seals leak, that's when the bushings get serviced.
However, this upgrade did enhance the performance. You would have to contact the manufacturer to see if they can get it from the UK. I believe they can upgrade them for you as well. There is the cutting of the push rod and the drilling of the end of the piston rod. There was no instructions so I was a little nervous doing unreversable mod. So, I double and triple checked what I was doing. I did not even do audio while videoing, just so I was not distracted.
Hope this helps, thanks
Great video
Thanks!
Hi again Mike :-) I can see 24 ounces is 681,9134 ml. In the user Manual for 2003 model, it says 66,4 ml. Mine is an '04 model and I guess it is the same (your is a '05?) - so is the forks different from each other in the Gen 1 series?
Hello, according to the service manual that covers all of gen 1 from 01-05, it says 70ml @ 79mm, however the 2003 supplement says 66.4ml @ 104mm. I don't see a change from 2003 to 2004. I don't have a 2005 supplement service manual. From what info I can gather, 2004 covers 2005. So I assume the change happened in 2003.
Using less oil will make the forks slightly softer. My forks were soft before and I had the settings cranked. When I did this video I also did the conversion to the fork cartridges. It had its own specifications for oil. So, I can't say if 70ml felt better than 66.4ml.
Unless I'm missing something in the manuals, I don't see a design change between years. Maybe I can look up part numbers to see if there is a difference.
Mike
One more question. When you install the forks back in the triple tree, how do you know that they are lined up or rotated correctly?
Hello, In the triple tree the fork sits just above the clamps about an 1/8" or a few millimeters. Just make them the same height. Rotation is not an issue as once they are installed. The bottom of the fork can rotate to line up with the axle. Hope this helps, mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 so the lower part of the axles rotate, so it doesn't matter which way the top is clamped in?
Yes that's correct.
SO Great video Mike :-) Q: DO you have a link to the Reference Diagram?
I am doing mine forks on my 04 model now :-) Thank you in advance! (FJR Norway)
PS: My forks suddenly started to leak from the bottom when parked the bide indoors for the winter. Most of the oil have now leaked out.... Did not see any leaks before that. Strange?
Hello, I made available the service manual for the 01-05 FJR at the following link.
drive.google.com/file/d/1PUQTPxlLgFJ_7CbOQjzqb8OKrJIm268E/view?usp=drivesdk
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Wow! Great, thanks for this. My previous copy wasn't 'hyperlinked' so this is fine update!
Mike you still have your fjr
Yes, I still have the bike. Just in the middle of a home renovation , my own this time. I'll get back to the channel hopefully by winter.
I can't believe how spotless your bike is! Mine is so ratched (at 1/3 the mileage) - think the PO used it for a wheelie monster trainer!! Why do I think so? All the fairings are scraped and scratched (and one side even brush-painted with color-match lacquer!) and the rear plastic fender liner was cut off with a hacksaw (not even straight!) above the license plate bracket (which I subsequently replaced). Ah well, it was a decent price with low miles ($4000 @ 30K kms). Some people 😛
Yes, I think from your description your right.
Unfortunately, a few years ago I dropped the bike performing a K turn on a sloped driveway when I stalled it. Dropped it on the right side. Front right cowling, right Fairing and case damage.
I bought a Chinese fairing kit to fix the fairings. Not as heavy as factory, but it's not bad, aliment was surprisingly good. Just the holes needed to be reemed out for size. The paint matches with the rest of the bike. On the flat surface on the fairing the paint has a little orange peel. So, the quality of the paint is not as good as factory, but it's not bad and it's not really noticeable unless I'm looking for it. I'm going to swap the front as well as the left side to match the logos. All I looked at every time I walked up to the bike was the scratches. Still looking for a clean replacement shell for the case.
Thanks, Mike
Why would you use grease to hold the piece in tube when you could use gravity? put the tube with the bottom facing up, put the piece in the tube and slide the outer housing down over the tube all while looking at the little bolt hole to see if it's seated.
This was a tip from k-tech in one of their videos to help prevent shifting of the cup in the bottom and also makes the assembly a lot easier.
Let me explain. What you don't see is: during videoing I did assemble as a stack and slide the tube over. That's how I broke the valve.
What you have to do to assemble the way you are describing is: remember if you put the cup in the end of the tube, it will just drop through. So, you have to hold the tube, then slide the cartridge into the tube, slide the cup into the tube and onto the top of the cartridge. Now lower the base onto the stack and get it to drop into a ridge on the cup. Now while holding the hole assembly, put the bolt in and finger tighten with an allen wrench.
Well, the first time it went ok, but it was out of camera frame while shooting. So I did it a second time. However, during the process of holding the stack and putting the bolt in, the cup shifted off the ridge on the cup without me seeing it.
When I started to tighten the bolt down, the lower valve snapped. I had very little pressure applied, with the cup not being in place correctly, the lower valve twisted and snapped before it was even close to being tight.
Assembling the way k-tech suggested, allows the cup to align easier. Your not trying to hold everything together. The Grease helps in seating the cup into the bottom and also helps with accidental shifting of the cup. It also allows for better inspection of the cup after assembly. The little bit of grease will eventually dissolve.
Mike.
Hi Mike I have a question nothing to do with forks! I have nearly 16v reading on the bike and I think it's the voltage regulator. I not looked yet but where will I find it to get to it. We have exactly the same bike and can I replace it with a compatible rather than stupid amounts of money from dealer. Thanks in advance
Yes, sounds like the regulator assuming the battery is good. It's under the left fairing behind the radiator cap on the frame. As long as it's a good aftermarket regulator.
Hope this helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 hi Mike all electrics perfect on the bike was a Chinese usb adapter that has a voltmeter built in to it that was displaying the wrong reading. I put a multimeter across the battery terminals and confirmed!
Ok, great. Thanks
Mike how's it going
my manual for a 03 fjr 1300 says oil level should be 100mm freom top of tube, fully compressed, and without spring.
Hello Mike. Any chance you can do the same job on my bike? I have the same exact bike. Obviously for any price you name. I had the worst experiences with the local Yamaha dealer and I trust you a 1000% more. Thank you
Hello, thank you for the offer and gracious comments. Yes, I can do it. Are you located near NJ. Are we talking just replacing the bushings or upgrading the forks like I did? Email me at fjr1300gps@gmail.com to talk further.
Thank You , Mike
How are you Mike? No new videos?
I'm ok, without saying too much personal info, changes are in my familys future, the next video may be from a garage of an RV.
Waaaaaaayyyyy too tight on the bottom bolt lucky you didn't break it again.let it bottom out and snug it good with a 3)8 drive ratchet.thats all ya gotta do.
I have the service manual, it's torqued to below their spec. I was going slow this time, so it looked like I tightened harder than it really was.
Too late for me😭 i broken it, do you have a spare part for sale?