I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7 When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
This confirms what I have seen in my private testings .. I have always watched people explain to expose between 1,3 and 2 EV over, but since I watched this zebra guide on Harv's channel, I always had problems to get these together ... as you pointed out, the metering and zebras will not work linearly together as the metering behaves differently in certain situations. Everytime I shot a scene with high DR, I had immense problems to get these highlights right because zebras told me I'm okay, but after applying the LUT it just looked fake, wrong and bad. I dialed down the zebras to 75 as you did the at 5:25 and that gave me more consistent results however the whole thing is such a factor of insecurity that I decided to stop any Log testing and just continue with Cine1. You can think and test for hours and days nowadays and nearly lose out of sight what is the main point in all of this. I don't want to spend an immense amount of time correcting Log footage. Yes, I like good DR, but at what cost. If I can delete 50% of my footage due to this exposure struggle, that's not what I want. Then I'll take 2-3 stops less but save time.
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on TH-cam.. (y)
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
Hello Jackques, really enjoying and learning from your work. My question maybe sounds like a beginner’s query. But want to ask you, provided we follow all the rules and suggestions you mentioned here, can i achieve these settings also through changing ISO or shutter speed? As you know, in Sony A7Siii, the native ISO is 640 and 12,800. So could I also use anything in between? (as I saw on your video, it was around 1200 sometimes) Also is it ok to break the rule of 180 degrees to achieve these results….especially if I am shooting an interview? Appreciate your feedback and best wishes from Switzerland.
Hey Manish! Apologies for the late reply, good question! Generally I try to never break the shutter rule so I don't encourage it, as for ISO I only go higher if it's really really necessary and I'm unable to use my light to bring up the exposure but I wouldn't go beyond 1250 that's my limit. As for 12 800 I'm not a fan of this ISO because it does soften the image quite a bit because of the camera's noise reduction (something that you can turn off in the FX3 & FX6).
@@jacques_crafford hi Jacques! Is High ISO NR the setting you utilize to turn on/off noise reduction? (Or do you utilize a setting called noise suppression in the Sony menu?)
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed? 2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too. Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work. You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera. Look zone metering theory also! Best of luck!
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too? The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3? A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering? Thanks for the video! And your work!
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V. Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one? Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ? And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that? Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
All clips graded with PHANTOM LUTS: bit.ly/3cqdikV
Use my code “JAC” for a 15% discount
I use a Sony a7iii which LUT pack would u suggest.
the one for FS7, FS5 and other Legacy Alpha cameras@@GEFitness
I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Yeeeew thanks Joel, really appreciate that coming from you! It's been bothering me for a long time so I hope this will shed some light on the issue :)
💯 brother!
Eloquently bro, thank you
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Aaaaaaw man that makes me so glad to hear, really means a lot! Thank you Zach, only a pleasure!
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
The grading looks so clean bro!
DUDE! Thanks for your support man, cant wait to see your South Africa video :) :) :)
I'm commenting because I want this video to reach more people. GREAT VIDEO🙏
Thank you for the kind gesture! 🔥
This is what I call high quality content! Thank you, Jacques!
Thank you so much Maxim, glad you enjoyed it!
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Yaaas yaaas thanks brother, that means so much to me! Also glad you introduced Paige, was awesome working with her!
It's such a hit and miss with some of the youtubers training the youth... but this video Is very comprehensive. Well done sir
Really glad you think so. Cheers! 🙏🏼
Thanks so much for this. You're giving me the courage to break away from my S-Cinetone training wheels.... scary yet exhilarating...
Really happy to hear that you are inspired, thank you so much!
Yes that’s exactly me right now losing the S-Cinetone training wheels!!!! Great video!!
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Which monitor lut do you use?
@@jacques_crafford how are you getting that spot meter to move around? LOL
8 mins and I learned so much!
Shooting my short film this weekend and binging all your videos before I step on set!
That's a HUGE compliment. Thank you, hope the sort film was fun! 🙏
Fantastic video man. I was hoping for an Slog-3 tutorial from one of my favorite TH-camrs, and here it was!
Thanks Jonathan, so grateful for your support! I've been meaning to make this for a while!
You made it all make sense! Exposing SLOG3 has always been a head scratcher for me but this made it all come full circle!
So glad to hear that, thanks Jade! Hope you get much better results going forward!
You make my favorite camera videos on youtube hands down. Thanks so much dude!
Woaaah that's a big compliment, thank you Jonah!
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7
When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
Yeeew thanks Armando! I agree, I prefer shooting in that range, makes post so much easier :)
Is this lut good for low light shooting as well?
@@braxtonwoullard1188 yeah but the hardest thing is to expose SLOG3 i low light.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
Best Video I ve seen in this topic! And amazing footage to look at along the way. What a beautiful Model and scenery
Thank you so much, really glad to hear that! I feel like there's still lots to be said about it but this is a start!
Wonderful explanation as always brother.
That is so comprehensive. Lekker vid bru keep up this content
thanks a lot and I appreciate your kindness to make this video it’s very important to me thanks for your help
Thank you for the kindness of your comment. I really appreciate that.
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
Yay so glad to hear you found it helpful, pleasure is all mine! Thanks for taking the time to comment
This confirms what I have seen in my private testings .. I have always watched people explain to expose between 1,3 and 2 EV over, but since I watched this zebra guide on Harv's channel, I always had problems to get these together ... as you pointed out, the metering and zebras will not work linearly together as the metering behaves differently in certain situations. Everytime I shot a scene with high DR, I had immense problems to get these highlights right because zebras told me I'm okay, but after applying the LUT it just looked fake, wrong and bad. I dialed down the zebras to 75 as you did the at 5:25 and that gave me more consistent results however the whole thing is such a factor of insecurity that I decided to stop any Log testing and just continue with Cine1. You can think and test for hours and days nowadays and nearly lose out of sight what is the main point in all of this. I don't want to spend an immense amount of time correcting Log footage. Yes, I like good DR, but at what cost. If I can delete 50% of my footage due to this exposure struggle, that's not what I want. Then I'll take 2-3 stops less but save time.
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on TH-cam.. (y)
So glad to hear, only a pleasure! Thanks Nafis!
This is such an excellent breakdown. I've learnt heaps from this. Many thanks!!
Really happy to hear this. Thank you for taking the time to comment, your support means a lot to me! 🙏
I purchased phantom luts using ur code Thank you my friend 😊😊
Thank you so much for making this video! I was always confused on how to expose slog 3. This video really cleared my doubts! Can't wait for more! 💪
Yay thanks for your feedback, so glad I could help Imran!
What lens do you use
For the tutorial part I used the Sony 35mm F/1.4
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Thanks Joshua, you have no idea how much I appreciate your words. Thanks for your support!
Man, u are awesome, great mind, most important information and easy ti understand, thx!
subscribed. because you showed how it performs with multiple skin tones
Thanks so much, glad I could help! Appreciate the support!
This video saved my life
Yay so glad to hear! Thank you
Amazing video! One question you use auto iso ? our manual ISO filming with Slog3? Thank you :D
"I have A7SIII"
I'm new to the Sony ecosystem and this is incredibly helpful. Thanks, Jacques!
So glad to hear that Will, thanks for taking the time to write this!
I have the same headphones, book and hard drive sitting in my office lol. Great video!
Haha how cool is that! Thanks Joe!
epic bru! been trying out slog 3 at work!
Lekka bru, where you working now! Sounds awesome, enjoy!
you're great teacher, 8 minutes watch your video save me months
Yay so glad to hear that! Thanks for your kind words
You're amazing ! Thanks for all the great videos. Learning a lot!
Thanks you are most kind, so glad to hear that!
I love your videos man! Straight to the point and very informative.
Thank you so much!
That means a lot, thanks Joshy I will try to keep it that way!
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
that is needed! this is the best tutorial on the subject. thanks for sharing, Jacques. I'm looking forward to your alphauniverse content!
Thanks Niklas, that means a lot to me! Hope you enjoy the grading tutorial!
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
YOUR CONTENT IS AMAZING! THANK YOU :)
Thank you so much, really appreciate your feedback!
Great video !! Love the shots with the rhino!! Regards to Ant
Thanks so much dude!
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
Yeeew thanks Patrick, so glad to hear that man! I hope to make many more like this one! Cheers from South Africa
AMAZING video and useful as always. Respect man for sharing amazing knowledge for free 🍻
Only a pleasure man, appreciate you taking time to write this!
def gotta try out the spot metering!
What a great video explaining metering! Thanks!
You're welcome thanks for taking the time to comment!
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Yeah I got you man, I actually enjoy doing Color Space Transform in DaVinci but for quicker turnarounds, the Phantom Luts are simply amazing!
Thank you. Love your Channel. Looking forward to more content
Thanks Matt, so appreciate your kind words! Cant wait to share more :)
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
Hello, thank you for the super useful video! Tell me, is zebra 50 on the skin on the developed material or on the raw slog 3?
You're welcome! 50 is on Slog3 without a LUT
Wow just discovered your channel. This was extremely well done! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much! Really appreciate your comment! 🙏
This video is nicely put together, you got a new Sub here. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
Aaaaw thanks for your kind words, really appreciate it!
Hello Jackques, really enjoying and learning from your work. My question maybe sounds like a beginner’s query. But want to ask you, provided we follow all the rules and suggestions you mentioned here, can i achieve these settings also through changing ISO or shutter speed? As you know, in Sony A7Siii, the native ISO is 640 and 12,800. So could I also use anything in between? (as I saw on your video, it was around 1200 sometimes) Also is it ok to break the rule of 180 degrees to achieve these results….especially if I am shooting an interview? Appreciate your feedback and best wishes from Switzerland.
Hey Manish! Apologies for the late reply, good question! Generally I try to never break the shutter rule so I don't encourage it, as for ISO I only go higher if it's really really necessary and I'm unable to use my light to bring up the exposure but I wouldn't go beyond 1250 that's my limit. As for 12 800 I'm not a fan of this ISO because it does soften the image quite a bit because of the camera's noise reduction (something that you can turn off in the FX3 & FX6).
@@jacques_crafford hi Jacques! Is High ISO NR the setting you utilize to turn on/off noise reduction? (Or do you utilize a setting called noise suppression in the Sony menu?)
Lekker yster! Ek het dit nou geniet man! Jy is baie natuurlik voor en agter die kamera. Hou so aan!
Whoooohooo dankie brother, dit beteken so baie vir my! Ek kan dieselfde vir jou sê, altyd lekker om jou te sien praat :)
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@jacques_crafford yellow skitong is 55% +_1 == ninjiav green+1 .but whitepage =75?
I thought Caucasian skin tones were in the low 60s in IRE. That's what a lot of people suggest. Why is this so ambiguous to me 😅
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed?
2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too.
Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work.
You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera.
Look zone metering theory also!
Best of luck!
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Thank you very much
amazing video! thank you very much!!!
Glad you liked it!🙏🏼
Thanks again for the awesome information! You always put out such great videos!
Thanks for your wonderful support Timmy, really glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Very impressive tutorial! Thanks!
So glad to hear that you're welcome!
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
Trying to figure out metering on the A7siii was driving me crazy. This has helped so much. Will be using your zebra approach. Thank you! 👊🏿
So glad to hear that bro, thanks for taking the time to give your feedback!
Amazing video. I would loveeeee to see a S&Q slog settings
Thanks Aramis! I use the exact same settings in S&Q, PP8 Standard (S-Log3.gamut3.cine) with detail -7
@@jacques_crafford thank you!! And the phantom luts. Do they work well with the a1 as well?
Cool man, yeah the Phantom Luts work super well on the A1!
Great video! But so you use the Zebra C1 for shooting people to expose correctly ? And C2 for when you are shooting objects?
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
Great Content as always!
Thanks Henri, really appreciate it!
Dang man, what a great and helpful video! Thank you!
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to give feedback :)
What a great breakdown on exposing, thank you.
Thanks Antonio, grateful for your feedback!
super informative, thank you
This is almost perfect. Should be an edit to add that IRE values vary for different skin tones. Not all subjects are pale white.
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
You betcha! Thanks for your support!
dude, what a class 🤌
Thanks dude!
Clean and detailed. love it
Thanks a ton Nick!
This applies to the FX6 as well im assuming. For all your videos with the fx3 right?
Thank you very much 😊
You are most welcome, thanks for your comment!🔥
Thanks man, great video! I'm learning a lot!
I'm so glad to hear that, thanks for supporting my channel Rune!
So valuable. Thank you for this.
You're so welcome, thanks Gerald!
incredibly good video, thank you
Thanks man, so appreciate you taking the time for this wonderful feedback!
This video is amazing! could you tell me how to expose s-log 3 underwater more or less?
thanks in advance!
Instant subscibe, great content
Thanks mate!!!
Subbed. This is all useful info even though it's beyond my knowledge right now.
Thanks Jay, only a pleasure! I hope it comes in handy soon :)
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
I was wondering the same thing
Yes. It’s not a problem if the MM fluctuate. It’s natural
Like he said. Use the spot metering and put it on the spot you want correctly.exposed.
spot metering to the subject instead of multi metering
Zebras for highlights
And that's how it's done! all raise....*applause*
Whooooaaa thanks for your beautiful comment!
Your videos are quality!
Thanks brother, much appreciated!
This is amazing! Do you use Video level scopes or Data level scopes while you color grade in davinci?
Awesome video! Thank you 👍
Thanks so much, glad you like it!
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too?
The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3?
A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
Yeah sure, I'm planning on releasing a video next week? S-Log3.cine is the better choice!
So you can only dial in exposure when iso is set to automatic? When I’m native iso it doesn’t allow you to manually under or over expose. ??
thanks boss, is the Gamma Display Assist better than using a LUT? Does it replace the loaded LUT? thanks in advance.
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering?
Thanks for the video! And your work!
Great watch ! Can you do a video on false color one day, preferably w the atomos ninja V 🍻
Brilliant thanks.
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V.
Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one?
Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ?
And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that?
Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
@@jacques_crafford Thank you!
Very good and beautiful your work my congratulations from Italy
Thanks, much appreciated! I love Italy!!!