I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7 When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on TH-cam.. (y)
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too? The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3? A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering? Thanks for the video! And your work!
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!! Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V. Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one? Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ? And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that? Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
Hey Jac, at 7:02 you say you would bring the highlights up to 95 IRE if you want more detail in the shadows. But doesn't SLOG3 clip at 94 IRE? So wouldn't anything at 94 IRE or above be clipped? I'm confused.
Yes you are right, I should have phrased it better. What I meant is that 95 is where I stop to go down, so my limit is 94 but when I hit 95 I know I should go down. With False Colour I just watch out for the orange!
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me. Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
So skintones 55-65 IRE but what about a non specific scene, say a mountain with scattered highlights, what IRE would you aim for (when using an atoms recorder)?
It really depends on the scene, in that case I'd rather look at my highlights and the shadows and which ever one is clipping the worst I'll bring back.
@@jacques_crafford and to clarify when using the waveform to measure IRE, can I apply a correction LUT and then use the waveform for measurement or does the LUT alter the waveform reading?
Two questions for you 😄 1) How high do you go above 640 native iso before deciding it’s time to jump to 12800 dual native iso and using ND for Slog3? 2) In a scenario where you have low light but 12800 iso is sufficient to control with ND, would you still choose to shoot in Slog3 or would you switch to a different color profile like HLG that handles noise better?
Hey Sina, apologies for the late reply, I'm drowning in comments haha! 1) I don't go much higher than 1250 ISO and 2) I would still ND up if I need to stay in Slog3, I prefer it always!
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
Hi! The settings for zebra are for shooting in the slog3 on monitor, and what about if I use your lut in my camera display assistant? Which settings I should to set up? Thank you!
Hi Jacques. Have you tried the slog 3 correction lut from sony? I wonder how come it look SO different from the Phantom neutral look. The Phantom lut is much flatter
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
When you recommend to both do A.) set the skin tone zebra to 50 plus/minus 2, and B.) keep skin tone IRE levels between 55 and 65, how are those two statements related? It seems to me that you are both recommending to set skin tones to 48-52 and to 55-65. I THINK you mean that 50 is some sort of "entry point", where you have some freedom to increase exposure above that level (possibly all the way up to 65), but I'm confused because you also said that when the "first" zebras start to disappear (at 50 + 2 = 52) then you are overexposing.
I can understand your confusion but it's like telling someone which iso to use without knowing how bright it is. You are right in that I'm using 50 as an entry point but Using 50 + 2 will not work on all skin-tone in all situations, and it also depends how bright you want the skin. For darker skin 50+2 will mean overexposure, but also, sometimes I want to keep the skin darker in order to preserve the overall scene so it's all just guidelines but ultimately I look at two things: #1 The highlights and how relevant they are to the scene. #2 the skintone and how relevant they are to the scene OR how bright I want them for example in commercial work I like my skintones brighter than for example a documentary or short film. Sorry if I'm not making myself clear enough in the video, I'm still learning to better communicate this!
@@jacques_crafford So your skin tones generally live between 48 and 65 IRE, depending on circumstances, but can also stray from this range if the situation calls for it? Really digging your skin tones by the way! That's why I try to clear up my confusion.
At 2:30 I’m assuming you overexposed that image to get that look? I always run into trouble for spots like that. Also I could never get the white balance to look like this when shooting. I just got a color checker 😂
Your advice is so good thank you. I wonder if you can help, if I want to shoot in car of a person talking while driving. How can I set the exposure to ensure their skin is always exposed right even when driving into sun or shade ? It needs to be a set it and leave it while the person drives snd I can’t be in car to adjust
Thanks so much Phil! That's a tough one because if the exposure changes too drastically you can't really set one exposure but in this case I would suggest overexposing the brighter part a little bit and too bring it down in post, there's still a little room to bring up the darker shots if you use Noise Reduction, that should give you some kind of decent balance?
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed? 2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too. Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work. You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera. Look zone metering theory also! Best of luck!
Hello Jackques, really enjoying and learning from your work. My question maybe sounds like a beginner’s query. But want to ask you, provided we follow all the rules and suggestions you mentioned here, can i achieve these settings also through changing ISO or shutter speed? As you know, in Sony A7Siii, the native ISO is 640 and 12,800. So could I also use anything in between? (as I saw on your video, it was around 1200 sometimes) Also is it ok to break the rule of 180 degrees to achieve these results….especially if I am shooting an interview? Appreciate your feedback and best wishes from Switzerland.
Hey Manish! Apologies for the late reply, good question! Generally I try to never break the shutter rule so I don't encourage it, as for ISO I only go higher if it's really really necessary and I'm unable to use my light to bring up the exposure but I wouldn't go beyond 1250 that's my limit. As for 12 800 I'm not a fan of this ISO because it does soften the image quite a bit because of the camera's noise reduction (something that you can turn off in the FX3 & FX6).
@@jacques_crafford hi Jacques! Is High ISO NR the setting you utilize to turn on/off noise reduction? (Or do you utilize a setting called noise suppression in the Sony menu?)
Thanks awesome video!! Idk why I just got a ninja v for the a7siii and when I try to preview with phantom luts it looks completely broken, how do you get your luts to display properly? Thanks so much again for the video!
Only a pleasure mate! You should definitely see them. When shooting darker skintones you might have to adjust the threshold to 35-40 but in all cases only see zebras on the brightest part of the skin.
@@jacques_crafford it's me again :D I'm courios why we shoulndt just use the zebras at 70, as this is where the skin tones sit? In this case I just could dial in the exposure by avoidng the zebras to appear. What do you think? Thank you mate and all the best
@@jacques_crafford ok .. thanks 😊, first time trying slog3 .. was scratching my head at first but then i got the phantom luts and now am able to get proper colours .. still learning how to properly expose log image.
It is actually quite confusing between Zebra and M.M. For example, I try to expose the skin at Zebra 56+3 and when reduced until the zebra is gone, the M.M shows +0.3 which is a bit far from the preached value, either +1.7 or +2.0 What is your advice, should I just rely on M.M. or should I follow the Zebra?
All clips graded with PHANTOM LUTS: bit.ly/3cqdikV
Use my code “JAC” for a 15% discount
I use a Sony a7iii which LUT pack would u suggest.
the one for FS7, FS5 and other Legacy Alpha cameras@@GEFitness
I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Yeeeew thanks Joel, really appreciate that coming from you! It's been bothering me for a long time so I hope this will shed some light on the issue :)
💯 brother!
Eloquently bro, thank you
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Aaaaaaw man that makes me so glad to hear, really means a lot! Thank you Zach, only a pleasure!
The grading looks so clean bro!
DUDE! Thanks for your support man, cant wait to see your South Africa video :) :) :)
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Which monitor lut do you use?
@@jacques_crafford how are you getting that spot meter to move around? LOL
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Yaaas yaaas thanks brother, that means so much to me! Also glad you introduced Paige, was awesome working with her!
This is what I call high quality content! Thank you, Jacques!
Thank you so much Maxim, glad you enjoyed it!
I'm commenting because I want this video to reach more people. GREAT VIDEO🙏
Thank you for the kind gesture! 🔥
It's such a hit and miss with some of the youtubers training the youth... but this video Is very comprehensive. Well done sir
Really glad you think so. Cheers! 🙏🏼
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7
When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
Yeeew thanks Armando! I agree, I prefer shooting in that range, makes post so much easier :)
Is this lut good for low light shooting as well?
@@braxtonwoullard1188 yeah but the hardest thing is to expose SLOG3 i low light.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
I was wondering the same thing
Yes. It’s not a problem if the MM fluctuate. It’s natural
Like he said. Use the spot metering and put it on the spot you want correctly.exposed.
spot metering to the subject instead of multi metering
Zebras for highlights
Thanks so much for this. You're giving me the courage to break away from my S-Cinetone training wheels.... scary yet exhilarating...
Really happy to hear that you are inspired, thank you so much!
Yes that’s exactly me right now losing the S-Cinetone training wheels!!!! Great video!!
Fantastic video man. I was hoping for an Slog-3 tutorial from one of my favorite TH-camrs, and here it was!
Thanks Jonathan, so grateful for your support! I've been meaning to make this for a while!
Best Video I ve seen in this topic! And amazing footage to look at along the way. What a beautiful Model and scenery
Thank you so much, really glad to hear that! I feel like there's still lots to be said about it but this is a start!
You made it all make sense! Exposing SLOG3 has always been a head scratcher for me but this made it all come full circle!
So glad to hear that, thanks Jade! Hope you get much better results going forward!
You make my favorite camera videos on youtube hands down. Thanks so much dude!
Woaaah that's a big compliment, thank you Jonah!
Thank you so much for making this video! I was always confused on how to expose slog 3. This video really cleared my doubts! Can't wait for more! 💪
Yay thanks for your feedback, so glad I could help Imran!
Wonderful explanation as always brother.
Shooting my short film this weekend and binging all your videos before I step on set!
That's a HUGE compliment. Thank you, hope the sort film was fun! 🙏
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
Hello, thank you for the super useful video! Tell me, is zebra 50 on the skin on the developed material or on the raw slog 3?
You're welcome! 50 is on Slog3 without a LUT
thanks a lot and I appreciate your kindness to make this video it’s very important to me thanks for your help
Thank you for the kindness of your comment. I really appreciate that.
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Thanks Joshua, you have no idea how much I appreciate your words. Thanks for your support!
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
That is so comprehensive. Lekker vid bru keep up this content
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on TH-cam.. (y)
So glad to hear, only a pleasure! Thanks Nafis!
This applies to the FX6 as well im assuming. For all your videos with the fx3 right?
This is amazing! Do you use Video level scopes or Data level scopes while you color grade in davinci?
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Yeah I got you man, I actually enjoy doing Color Space Transform in DaVinci but for quicker turnarounds, the Phantom Luts are simply amazing!
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
I love your videos man! Straight to the point and very informative.
Thank you so much!
That means a lot, thanks Joshy I will try to keep it that way!
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
Yay so glad to hear you found it helpful, pleasure is all mine! Thanks for taking the time to comment
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
So you can only dial in exposure when iso is set to automatic? When I’m native iso it doesn’t allow you to manually under or over expose. ??
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Man, u are awesome, great mind, most important information and easy ti understand, thx!
This is such an excellent breakdown. I've learnt heaps from this. Many thanks!!
Really happy to hear this. Thank you for taking the time to comment, your support means a lot to me! 🙏
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
You betcha! Thanks for your support!
Great video! But so you use the Zebra C1 for shooting people to expose correctly ? And C2 for when you are shooting objects?
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
Yeeew thanks Patrick, so glad to hear that man! I hope to make many more like this one! Cheers from South Africa
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
epic bru! been trying out slog 3 at work!
Lekka bru, where you working now! Sounds awesome, enjoy!
What lens do you use
For the tutorial part I used the Sony 35mm F/1.4
that is needed! this is the best tutorial on the subject. thanks for sharing, Jacques. I'm looking forward to your alphauniverse content!
Thanks Niklas, that means a lot to me! Hope you enjoy the grading tutorial!
I'm new to the Sony ecosystem and this is incredibly helpful. Thanks, Jacques!
So glad to hear that Will, thanks for taking the time to write this!
You're amazing ! Thanks for all the great videos. Learning a lot!
Thanks you are most kind, so glad to hear that!
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
@@jacques_crafford thank you for the reply man. I’ve been searching for a definite answer to this and can’t seem to find it anywhere :)
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too?
The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3?
A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
Yeah sure, I'm planning on releasing a video next week? S-Log3.cine is the better choice!
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering?
Thanks for the video! And your work!
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!!
Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
So for the examples you've shown, which method do you use the most when using an external recorder.... false colour, IRE, zebras or spot metering?
I use the Waveform, just because it's faster than False Color!
This video is amazing! could you tell me how to expose s-log 3 underwater more or less?
thanks in advance!
thanks boss, is the Gamma Display Assist better than using a LUT? Does it replace the loaded LUT? thanks in advance.
What's is picture profile did you used? and how did you customize on slog?
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V.
Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one?
Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ?
And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that?
Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
@@jacques_crafford Thank you!
def gotta try out the spot metering!
I purchased phantom luts using ur code Thank you my friend 😊😊
Hey Jac, at 7:02 you say you would bring the highlights up to 95 IRE if you want more detail in the shadows. But doesn't SLOG3 clip at 94 IRE? So wouldn't anything at 94 IRE or above be clipped? I'm confused.
Yes you are right, I should have phrased it better. What I meant is that 95 is where I stop to go down, so my limit is 94 but when I hit 95 I know I should go down. With False Colour I just watch out for the orange!
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me.
Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
So skintones 55-65 IRE but what about a non specific scene, say a mountain with scattered highlights, what IRE would you aim for (when using an atoms recorder)?
It really depends on the scene, in that case I'd rather look at my highlights and the shadows and which ever one is clipping the worst I'll bring back.
@@jacques_crafford and to clarify when using the waveform to measure IRE, can I apply a correction LUT and then use the waveform for measurement or does the LUT alter the waveform reading?
Two questions for you 😄
1) How high do you go above 640 native iso before deciding it’s time to jump to 12800 dual native iso and using ND for Slog3?
2) In a scenario where you have low light but 12800 iso is sufficient to control with ND, would you still choose to shoot in Slog3 or would you switch to a different color profile like HLG that handles noise better?
Hey Sina, apologies for the late reply, I'm drowning in comments haha! 1) I don't go much higher than 1250 ISO and 2) I would still ND up if I need to stay in Slog3, I prefer it always!
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
Hi! The settings for zebra are for shooting in the slog3 on monitor, and what about if I use your lut in my camera display assistant? Which settings I should to set up? Thank you!
Thank you. Love your Channel. Looking forward to more content
Thanks Matt, so appreciate your kind words! Cant wait to share more :)
subscribed. because you showed how it performs with multiple skin tones
Thanks so much, glad I could help! Appreciate the support!
Hi Jacques. Have you tried the slog 3 correction lut from sony? I wonder how come it look SO different from the Phantom neutral look. The Phantom lut is much flatter
Yes bro, I really dig it. It's got more colour for sure but I like the reds in the Phantom LUTs
This video is nicely put together, you got a new Sub here. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
Aaaaw thanks for your kind words, really appreciate it!
What a great video explaining metering! Thanks!
You're welcome thanks for taking the time to comment!
Thanks again for the awesome information! You always put out such great videos!
Thanks for your wonderful support Timmy, really glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
When you recommend to both do A.) set the skin tone zebra to 50 plus/minus 2, and B.) keep skin tone IRE levels between 55 and 65, how are those two statements related? It seems to me that you are both recommending to set skin tones to 48-52 and to 55-65. I THINK you mean that 50 is some sort of "entry point", where you have some freedom to increase exposure above that level (possibly all the way up to 65), but I'm confused because you also said that when the "first" zebras start to disappear (at 50 + 2 = 52) then you are overexposing.
I can understand your confusion but it's like telling someone which iso to use without knowing how bright it is. You are right in that I'm using 50 as an entry point but Using 50 + 2 will not work on all skin-tone in all situations, and it also depends how bright you want the skin. For darker skin 50+2 will mean overexposure, but also, sometimes I want to keep the skin darker in order to preserve the overall scene so it's all just guidelines but ultimately I look at two things: #1 The highlights and how relevant they are to the scene. #2 the skintone and how relevant they are to the scene OR how bright I want them for example in commercial work I like my skintones brighter than for example a documentary or short film. Sorry if I'm not making myself clear enough in the video, I'm still learning to better communicate this!
@@jacques_crafford So your skin tones generally live between 48 and 65 IRE, depending on circumstances, but can also stray from this range if the situation calls for it? Really digging your skin tones by the way! That's why I try to clear up my confusion.
Amazing video! One question you use auto iso ? our manual ISO filming with Slog3? Thank you :D
"I have A7SIII"
Thank You! I have two questions: 1) Are the camera settings the same for the A1 also? 2) Does the Phantom Lut work with the A1?
Only a pleasure Rico! 1) Yes it would be the same 2) 100% yes it will, same colour science. Phantom LUTS are the best!
At 2:30 I’m assuming you overexposed that image to get that look? I always run into trouble for spots like that. Also I could never get the white balance to look like this when shooting. I just got a color checker 😂
Your advice is so good thank you. I wonder if you can help, if I want to shoot in car of a person talking while driving. How can I set the exposure to ensure their skin is always exposed right even when driving into sun or shade ? It needs to be a set it and leave it while the person drives snd I can’t be in car to adjust
Thanks so much Phil! That's a tough one because if the exposure changes too drastically you can't really set one exposure but in this case I would suggest overexposing the brighter part a little bit and too bring it down in post, there's still a little room to bring up the darker shots if you use Noise Reduction, that should give you some kind of decent balance?
@@jacques_crafford sound advice thank you again !
I have a Sony a73. The iso starts at 800. Should I am to keep it at this value?
Yes totally, that's the native ISO, for sure stay on that ISO :)
Very impressive tutorial! Thanks!
So glad to hear that you're welcome!
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
Great Content as always!
Thanks Henri, really appreciate it!
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@jacques_crafford yellow skitong is 55% +_1 == ninjiav green+1 .but whitepage =75?
I thought Caucasian skin tones were in the low 60s in IRE. That's what a lot of people suggest. Why is this so ambiguous to me 😅
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed?
2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too.
Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work.
You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera.
Look zone metering theory also!
Best of luck!
Hi Jacques, how about the zebra settings for slog 2 on a7iii? Can you share your advices?
Hey Joschija! I haven't played around with it yet but I'm guessing it will be exactly the same if you use the Phantom LUTS like I do
When I started getting my FX3 set up, I noticed that under picture profiles, PP7, PP8 and PP9 were just missing. From PP6, it jumps right to PP10.
What is a good extern monitor where the waveform / false color features come in?
AMAZING video and useful as always. Respect man for sharing amazing knowledge for free 🍻
Only a pleasure man, appreciate you taking time to write this!
Hello Jackques, really enjoying and learning from your work. My question maybe sounds like a beginner’s query. But want to ask you, provided we follow all the rules and suggestions you mentioned here, can i achieve these settings also through changing ISO or shutter speed? As you know, in Sony A7Siii, the native ISO is 640 and 12,800. So could I also use anything in between? (as I saw on your video, it was around 1200 sometimes) Also is it ok to break the rule of 180 degrees to achieve these results….especially if I am shooting an interview? Appreciate your feedback and best wishes from Switzerland.
Hey Manish! Apologies for the late reply, good question! Generally I try to never break the shutter rule so I don't encourage it, as for ISO I only go higher if it's really really necessary and I'm unable to use my light to bring up the exposure but I wouldn't go beyond 1250 that's my limit. As for 12 800 I'm not a fan of this ISO because it does soften the image quite a bit because of the camera's noise reduction (something that you can turn off in the FX3 & FX6).
@@jacques_crafford hi Jacques! Is High ISO NR the setting you utilize to turn on/off noise reduction? (Or do you utilize a setting called noise suppression in the Sony menu?)
Thanks awesome video!! Idk why I just got a ninja v for the a7siii and when I try to preview with phantom luts it looks completely broken, how do you get your luts to display properly? Thanks so much again for the video!
You're welcome Thomas! I'm not sure why that happens but you get a grading LUT and a viewing LUT and it might be that you're using the grading LUT.
@@jacques_crafford thank you!!
This video saved my life
Yay so glad to hear! Thank you
Lekker yster! Ek het dit nou geniet man! Jy is baie natuurlik voor en agter die kamera. Hou so aan!
Whoooohooo dankie brother, dit beteken so baie vir my! Ek kan dieselfde vir jou sê, altyd lekker om jou te sien praat :)
How are you getting your spot meter to move around?!
Thank you for the video! But shall I see the zebras in C1, when exposing midtones/skin or should they slightly disappear? Thanks 😊
Only a pleasure mate! You should definitely see them. When shooting darker skintones you might have to adjust the threshold to 35-40 but in all cases only see zebras on the brightest part of the skin.
@@jacques_crafford Thank you so much - keep up the good work!
@@jacques_crafford it's me again :D I'm courios why we shoulndt just use the zebras at 70, as this is where the skin tones sit? In this case I just could dial in the exposure by avoidng the zebras to appear. What do you think? Thank you mate and all the best
*very helpful video .. when using the phantom luts do u overexpose or keep it normal while shooting in slog 3 ?*
Only a pleasure bro! I tend to overexpose just a tiny bit but not as much as most people recommend.
@@jacques_crafford ok .. thanks 😊, first time trying slog3 .. was scratching my head at first but then i got the phantom luts and now am able to get proper colours .. still learning how to properly expose log image.
Questions. The new FX30 has 709 and 709(800%) and they give two different zebra clipping point. which one should i use?
Wow just discovered your channel. This was extremely well done! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much! Really appreciate your comment! 🙏
What a great breakdown on exposing, thank you.
Thanks Antonio, grateful for your feedback!
you're great teacher, 8 minutes watch your video save me months
Yay so glad to hear that! Thanks for your kind words
It is actually quite confusing between Zebra and M.M.
For example, I try to expose the skin at Zebra 56+3 and when reduced until the zebra is gone, the M.M shows +0.3 which is a bit far from the preached value, either +1.7 or +2.0
What is your advice, should I just rely on M.M. or should I follow the Zebra?