You are a national treasure in regards to not yakking your way through the entire process, plugging merch, listing very important information in the video with BRIGHT COLORS 😀 to catch the eye of the easily distracted (it catches their attention) and the list of what you removed before the video and not going through the mundane process of all those steps while listening to the person talk about some dumb thing.
As per as I know, there's no EGR valve in modern petrol engines that use Variable Valve Timing system on both intake and exhaust side. Instead of using EGR valve, the engine opens exhaust valve slightly by VVT system in the intake stroke to suck exhaust gas into the cylinder. Therefore, it makes the same result(cooling down the cylinder temperature) without EGR valve.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 yeah, I need to study my car more. There's a part on the 1.4 that's responsible for some of the evap systems. I forgot the name of this hose that wraps around the block basically {part #04E 133 366 CQ} and it's pretty wild looking. Reminds me of a coolant hose for the ABA motor haha it's seems so unnecessary. Anyway, i got this part as i was told it's part of the reason why cold starts on really hot summer days above 75° makes it hesitate, sputtering and eventually dies. It's pretty rough on the motor and i make sure to turn the car on for at least 45 seconds to get the fuel primed up and every sensor to read some decent number before i turn it over. This issue has been going on since a VW dealership "fixed" my fuel rail. I have not touched the engine too much because i don't want to fuck with it yet. But tried to fix the problem with high octane additives as it's my only reliable car right now. I would like to see a video replacing some of these small evap systems and a fuel filter if you can. So yeah.... Especially the fuel filter lol i want to show the guy at Orieleys they are serviceable. Lmao but that evap part is main priority after i get my dodge truck going and would love to see someone do it on youtube.
Thanks for the video I have done plenty of these using the timing tools, with the non-variable exhaust cam pulley, leaving the engine mount on. But haven’t done any with both variable pulleys and removing the engine mount. Good to know I can do it without - thanks! 👍🏼
Greetings from UK and thanks for a very informative and ingenious video! My Golf 1.4l tsi is 10 yrs old and I will be doing this job. Your method is far easier than following a Haynes workshop manual!
Wow, well done. That’s impressive you did it without any of the special tools. I like how you did not remove the cam pulleys. In all other videos I found everyone seems to remove them and I can’t understand why. I would do the same as you and just leave them alone, but I would probably still use the special locking tools for extra insurance.
Thank you for your valuable comment. VW uses the special tool and the camshaft angle adjustment system for this work. However, if there's no difference between new and old timing belts, I reckon we don't need to remove the camshaft sprockets. Additionally, if you have a special tool for this job, I recommend to use it. As you mentioned above, it would be safer and more efficient way.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 you’re welcome. It’s a good video. The other videos I came across on you tube don’t even use the camshaft adjustment procedure after the fitment of the timing belt, and after they have loosened the camshaft pulleys. That’s why I found it strange that they loosened them in the first place. I can only assume they had no issues.
Thx for the video, i wonder why do you have to mark the sprocket on the waterpump side, you already mark the sprockets on the other side (timing belt sprockets) ?
Thank you for your valuable comment. This is my rule when working on the engine. If something goes wrong, I might need to undo the camshaft sprocket bolts. In this case, the marks on the back side of camshafts will be helpful. However, if you are going to use the timing tools, you don't need to do like that. Thanks.
Thank you for a very helpful video. I´ve a CPWA. Is there any difference to the petrol-only version? Can you recommend where I should buy the locking tools, belt, tensioner and pump? Is it common for the pump to spring a leak at only 89k? At what mileage would you recommend a belt/pump change?
Thank you for your valuable comment. 1. I am not sure what the petrol-only version. However, VW engines have been made of similar principles. So, you can apply this method to the other ones. 2. You might find the timing tools, and parts from Amozon. 3. There's no spring in the waterpump. However, waterpump can be faulty anytime. I saw a leaking waterpump at 42,000km. 4. Recommended timing belt and waterpump exchange interval is 90,000~100,000km.
Excellent video! Thank you. I always thought this engine was with a “wet belt”. But apparently it’s just a normal enclosed dry belt. anyway it has a 240.000km inspection interval, so why replace it at 89.000? - I mean, it’s pretty much not related to the water pump that was bad.
The timing belt exchange interval is set by VW. They recommend this job every 90,000km. I saw the case that the belt condition was still all right at 120,000km. However, just in case, you must follow their recommendation as engine overhaul cost is more expensive than timing belt exchange cost.
Hi, thank you so much for posting this up. I’m guessing this is the same motor that’s inside my 2016 Skoda rapid 1.4L? I’m pretty sure it’s also a TSI motor. If it is, I’ll give it a try as well as I’ve only ever worked on Japanese cars. Would I also need that crankshaft tool you have to rotate it? or can this be done another way. thanks!
After removing the harmonic balancer(crank pulley), you must re-install the harmonic balancer bolt with thick washer or nut straight away(tightening by hand, not rattle gun).Once you've done this you can rotate the crankshaft.
According to VW says that the timing belts of the 1.4 and 1.5 turbo are for life, which are not changed, they last more than 250 thousand miles. What does change is the water pump because it is independent of the timing belt ....
I've seen cracks on the belt at 150,000km. As per as I know, 'no service item' is not existing among the automotive parts. You don't need to exchange a waterpump whenever you carry out timing belt job. This one was the customer request as he didn't want to gamble with his car for the future failure while he is driving.
Very nice instruction video but i still have a question: you remove the bolt for blocking the crankshaft on cylinder 1, but do you actualy insert the blocking bolt ? and how to check you have the real correct t.d.c ? the piston comes 2 times on top position..
Thank you for your valuable comment. 1. I didn't insert the blocking bolt. The bolt is included in the timing kit and I didn't use the tool. So, I was trying to demonstrate the way to use the bolt in the video. Sorry for confusing you guys. 2. Yes, you are right. 4 stroke engine's pistons reach to the T.D.C two times in a cycle. Actually, it doesn't need to make No.1 cylinder in T.D.C for carrying out this task as I marked on the old timing belt, camshaft sprocket, and crankshaft sprocket. And then I marked on the same spots of the new timing belt. Unless the timing is out, this way can apply to any other timing belt job. * Additionally, if you want to identify the No.1 cylinder in the real T.D.C(both inlet & outlet valves are closed, and No.1 piston is in T.D.C), you can blow the air into the spark plug hole. The amount of the air from the hole will be different because of the valve operation(closed or open).
Yes, you can. However, a VW polo has smaller space than VW golf, and the timing belt tentioner can be adjusted by special tool or large size of spanner(as I remember, it was 30mm or 32mm). You should be aware of this.
Hi, On my golf 7 1.2 tsi (cjza) 2015 an mechanic did the timing belt yesterday without tool. First time it lost power at high revs showing g28 and g40 codes, second time it shudders sometimes at low rps 1000-1200 rpm. Did they damage my engine or I only need to find someone with tool to put it right. Thanks,
If the mechanic unscrewed camshaft sprocket bolts, he should use the timing tool. However, if engine is still running and there's no abnormal noise, you might need to align the timing correctly using a timing tool.
Great job. I have the mk6 1.4 tsi 2009 manual. Only 34k on clock. Not been serviced for 3 years as I do very few miles 3k p.a. Want to service the car now. Do I need the timing belt replaced as well and how much does it cost?
I live in Australia and, timing belt exchange costs around 1,200AUD. It can be differ from shops. Additionally, you must exchange engine oil and engine oil filter at least once a year, or every 10,000km whichever comes first. If you don't, it will spend more money than timing belt exchange to clean the oil slidge. Please remember the most important maintenance is the regular service.
Hello, I have a question, how to loosen the crankshaft bolt? I can’t lock the crankshaft with the tool, I don’t have it. Do you have a solution? Thank you. Hello from France!
Hi there, 2:51 As you can see, the crankshaft will be rotated to anti-clockwise slightly when you unscrew the bolt. 3:04 So, after refilting the bolt with finger-tight, you need to rotate the crankshaft to clockwise until match the marks. Thanks.
Okay, thank you for your response. :) You know if I can do the timing belt on a CZEA EA211 engine? This motor have ACT system… I don’t want to buy the tool from VW (500$)
I found a Skoda workshop manual for a CPWA engine, which is what my Caddy has. It says to remove the CNG plumbing in order to gain access to the right side of the engine. Is that really necessary?
I went to Skoda service with request about timing belt interval in Skoda Superb 1.4 TSI (czca engine code) they said 140000 miles or 15 years. I don't know what to think. I just bought superb 7 years old with 46k miles on the clock. Should I take risk and leave it as it is or replace immediately timing belt?
We advise to replace the timing belt kit at 100,000km or 10 years. However, please visit the workshop and get an advice from a mechanic regarding this matter.
Sorry for late reply. If your car's engine looks similar to this engine, maybe it will be the same procedure. If you are not sure, please visit the workshop nearby..
Hi there, I didn't use any special tool for this task. There is a key which is holding crank shaft sprocket from the crank shaft. So, the sprocket is not rotating around the crankshaft even if removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt(DH19). 2:49 Some engine doesn't have a key holding the sprockets on the camshafts or crankshafts. You need the special tool holding the position. But, not for this.
I used a hoist to lift the car up and a jack stand is used for supporting the engine. Maybe you have to use a hydraulic jack with a flat rubber or wood block to support the engine. Please note that the engine oil level sensor is located under the oil sump. You must avoid this area when lifting the engine up with a jack.
The hole where the 19mm bolt was is for inserting a timing tool that sets No.1 cylinder TDC. If you don't have a timing tool, you don't need to remove the bolt.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks, please bear with me a little bit further. I just wanna make sure that I can skip the bolt and take the rest of the necessary steps that you take in the video? So I basically just start with cylinder one TDC and continue like the video ?
I went to Skoda service with request about timing belt interval in Skoda Superb 1.4 TSI (czca engine code) they said 140000 miles or 15 years. I don't what to think about it.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 if it is 100k km, why the VW manual book says it is life time ( lets assume not life time, but 100k km would be interesting!)
@@linhai1 I have a golf at 126000 now, bought second hand, paying attention a lot, I hear no extra sound, however I am planing to get it check, a bit paranoid, but 100k km is just none sense I think for a belt suppose to go at least 160k miles ( or 210k km)
So i wanna change my timing belt and water pump, but apparently the pulleys are floating and needs locking tools that i dont have. So do i absolutety need locking tools or can it be done without?
I've done this job without the timing tool as a mechanic. However, it's your decision and responsibility carrying out this job without the tools, mate.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks, I'm curious about what risk there is while doing the job without any tools? Can't I just put the pulleys on the correct position before installing the new belt?
Incorrect timing can cause a damage of valves and pistons. Additionally, it will cause crankshaft if you didn't install crankshaft pulley on correct position. I advise that this job should be carried by a technician if you don't have confidence to do it. Sorry.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 my only concern was about the locking tools that most videos I've seen are using. I thought I could just time everything correctly, mark everything and install the new kit. Maybe I made it seem easier than it is. Last question, what's the difference between floating pulleys and non floating.
@@laith7218 cam phasers is what there called. kind of variable time for cams. used the hydraulic pressure of the oil. personally I suggest you don't change it until it is a problem such as cracking of the timing belt. VW says this is a life time part but we all know there's no such thing. personally, my Jetta is 7 years old, at 206XXX kms and won't be changing my anytime soon but will continue to inspect every 20000 kms
Great example how not to do it. Timing belt on this engine should have been done with locking tools. This is an easy way to get correlations fault codes in ECU. Anyone interested in DIY chceck manuals first.
Let me ask you this. How many times have you done timing belt exchange tasks of this engine without locking tool? Have you tried before? I recommend you try first before judging something. I've done this timing belt job more than 10 times without a tool. However, I have never seen any fault codes, and no cars came back with problems, mate.
If you made correct marks on the timing belt, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket, I am sure there will be no problem. Always, double check the marks before installing and after as well.
Lucky you then. I`seen a few done this way,and ecu was saying "correlation" which means bogge didn`t work. There is a reason why on some of the engines you tension belt with cams locked,and cams sprockets bolts loose,this is one of them.
Hi mate, you don't need to remove the bolt as it is needed for checking and securing TDC. If I had a timing tool, I will insert the securing bolt in the kit.
Not a good video. I guess lots of people will get confused. U missed parts from the locking pin which not showing but thanks for sharing. I hope u made a good one in the future. U will need the tools for sure and water pump needs spec torque.
Thank you for your valuable comment. I agree with that there are many things skipped and proper tool should be used. I will do my best to improve the quality of the video now on.
You fail to mention if you set #1 on TDC for compression or exhaust stroke. You fail to mention marking the timing belt reference to crank sprocket. You fail to mention how to keep both cams in tune when they due to valve springs want to rotate.
![Reasons I Chose The Awesome 1.4 TSI TFSi [EA211 Are Excellent Engines]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2fzNDt2Z-X4/mqdefault.jpg)
All done yesterday was not so complicated thanks for your video it’s gonna help more people you right we don’t need timing tools !
You are a national treasure in regards to not yakking your way through the entire process, plugging merch, listing very important information in the video with BRIGHT COLORS 😀 to catch the eye of the easily distracted (it catches their attention) and the list of what you removed before the video and not going through the mundane process of all those steps while listening to the person talk about some dumb thing.
Thank you very much your valuable comment and advice. I will do my best to creating better quality contents. :)
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 do you think you can do an EGR replacement for a 1.4t tsi Volkswagen jetta? I don't see anything for it.
As per as I know, there's no EGR valve in modern petrol engines that use Variable Valve Timing system on both intake and exhaust side. Instead of using EGR valve, the engine opens exhaust valve slightly by VVT system in the intake stroke to suck exhaust gas into the cylinder. Therefore, it makes the same result(cooling down the cylinder temperature) without EGR valve.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 yeah, I need to study my car more. There's a part on the 1.4 that's responsible for some of the evap systems. I forgot the name of this hose that wraps around the block basically {part #04E 133 366 CQ} and it's pretty wild looking. Reminds me of a coolant hose for the ABA motor haha it's seems so unnecessary.
Anyway, i got this part as i was told it's part of the reason why cold starts on really hot summer days above 75° makes it hesitate, sputtering and eventually dies. It's pretty rough on the motor and i make sure to turn the car on for at least 45 seconds to get the fuel primed up and every sensor to read some decent number before i turn it over.
This issue has been going on since a VW dealership "fixed" my fuel rail. I have not touched the engine too much because i don't want to fuck with it yet. But tried to fix the problem with high octane additives as it's my only reliable car right now.
I would like to see a video replacing some of these small evap systems and a fuel filter if you can.
So yeah.... Especially the fuel filter lol i want to show the guy at Orieleys they are serviceable. Lmao
but that evap part is main priority after i get my dodge truck going and would love to see someone do it on youtube.
One thing I'm also suspecting is a sensor on the intake N75 or along the charge pipe
Thanks for the video
I have done plenty of these using the timing tools, with the non-variable exhaust cam pulley, leaving the engine mount on. But haven’t done any with both variable pulleys and removing the engine mount.
Good to know I can do it without - thanks! 👍🏼
Greetings from UK and thanks for a very informative and ingenious video! My Golf 1.4l tsi is 10 yrs old and I will be doing this job. Your method is far easier than following a Haynes workshop manual!
How did you get on. ?
It’s on my “to do” list! Been busy with other stuff - just doing rear axle bushes on a 2010 Mk7 Fiesta right now!
I got a 10 year old belt. Feel that i need to change it now. Thanks for a god video
Thank you for your valuable comment.
Wow, well done. That’s impressive you did it without any of the special tools.
I like how you did not remove the cam pulleys. In all other videos I found everyone seems to remove them and I can’t understand why.
I would do the same as you and just leave them alone, but I would probably still use the special locking tools for extra insurance.
Thank you for your valuable comment. VW uses the special tool and the camshaft angle adjustment system for this work. However, if there's no difference between new and old timing belts, I reckon we don't need to remove the camshaft sprockets. Additionally, if you have a special tool for this job, I recommend to use it. As you mentioned above, it would be safer and more efficient way.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 you’re welcome. It’s a good video.
The other videos I came across on you tube don’t even use the camshaft adjustment procedure after the fitment of the timing belt, and after they have loosened the camshaft pulleys. That’s why I found it strange that they loosened them in the first place.
I can only assume they had no issues.
Great Vid Thanks For Sharing ...
Thank you so much ~!!!
Hi, for the crankshaft pulley, what is the torque spec when putting it back on? thank you!
Hi ! do you know the torque for the crankshaft bolt as well as the torque for the tensioner and the idler? tnks !
Good video
Thank you very much~
Thx for the video, i wonder why do you have to mark the sprocket on the waterpump side, you already mark the sprockets on the other side (timing belt sprockets) ?
Thank you for your valuable comment. This is my rule when working on the engine. If something goes wrong, I might need to undo the camshaft sprocket bolts. In this case, the marks on the back side of camshafts will be helpful. However, if you are going to use the timing tools, you don't need to do like that. Thanks.
Thank you for a very helpful video. I´ve a CPWA. Is there any difference to the petrol-only version? Can you recommend where I should buy the locking tools, belt, tensioner and pump? Is it common for the pump to spring a leak at only 89k? At what mileage would you recommend a belt/pump change?
Thank you for your valuable comment.
1. I am not sure what the petrol-only version. However, VW engines have been made of similar principles. So, you can apply this method to the other ones.
2. You might find the timing tools, and parts from Amozon.
3. There's no spring in the waterpump. However, waterpump can be faulty anytime. I saw a leaking waterpump at 42,000km.
4. Recommended timing belt and waterpump exchange interval is 90,000~100,000km.
Excellent video! Thank you.
I always thought this engine was with a “wet belt”. But apparently it’s just a normal enclosed dry belt.
anyway it has a 240.000km inspection interval, so why replace it at 89.000? - I mean, it’s pretty much not related to the water pump that was bad.
The timing belt exchange interval is set by VW. They recommend this job every 90,000km. I saw the case that the belt condition was still all right at 120,000km. However, just in case, you must follow their recommendation as engine overhaul cost is more expensive than timing belt exchange cost.
Hi, thank you so much for posting this up. I’m guessing this is the same motor that’s inside my 2016 Skoda rapid 1.4L? I’m pretty sure it’s also a TSI motor. If it is, I’ll give it a try as well as I’ve only ever worked on Japanese cars. Would I also need that crankshaft tool you have to rotate it? or can this be done another way. thanks!
After removing the harmonic balancer(crank pulley), you must re-install the harmonic balancer bolt with thick washer or nut straight away(tightening by hand, not rattle gun).Once you've done this you can rotate the crankshaft.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 sweet thank you! I’ll purchase the belt and pump and will give it a shot 😄
According to VW says that the timing belts of the 1.4 and 1.5 turbo are for life, which are not changed, they last more than 250 thousand miles.
What does change is the water pump because it is independent of the timing belt ....
I've seen cracks on the belt at 150,000km. As per as I know, 'no service item' is not existing among the automotive parts. You don't need to exchange a waterpump whenever you carry out timing belt job. This one was the customer request as he didn't want to gamble with his car for the future failure while he is driving.
Very nice instruction video but i still have a question: you remove the bolt for blocking the crankshaft on cylinder 1, but do you actualy insert the blocking bolt ? and how to check you have the real correct t.d.c ? the piston comes 2 times on top position..
Thank you for your valuable comment.
1. I didn't insert the blocking bolt. The bolt is included in the timing kit and I didn't use the tool. So, I was trying to demonstrate the way to use the bolt in the video. Sorry for confusing you guys.
2. Yes, you are right. 4 stroke engine's pistons reach to the T.D.C two times in a cycle. Actually, it doesn't need to make No.1 cylinder in T.D.C for carrying out this task as I marked on the old timing belt, camshaft sprocket, and crankshaft sprocket. And then I marked on the same spots of the new timing belt. Unless the timing is out, this way can apply to any other timing belt job.
* Additionally, if you want to identify the No.1 cylinder in the real T.D.C(both inlet & outlet valves are closed, and No.1 piston is in T.D.C), you can blow the air into the spark plug hole.
The amount of the air from the hole will be different because of the valve operation(closed or open).
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 Thx for your answer! keep up the good video's !!
Sorry if it's a dumb question : is it a dry belt system ? No belt in oil like those crazy 1.0 ecoboost ?
No, it is not a wet timing belt. The new belt should be dry and clean. Thank you for your valuable comment:)
Thank you. Do you know if I can use this same method for 2016 vw polo 1.0 tsi (3 cylinder ) timing belt?
Yes, you can. However, a VW polo has smaller space than VW golf, and the timing belt tentioner can be adjusted by special tool or large size of spanner(as I remember, it was 30mm or 32mm). You should be aware of this.
Is this the same procedure for a 2019 vw Jetta with the 1.4L turbo? Thanks for video
Thanks. Golf MK7 was produced from 2015 to 2021. So, in my opinion, it might be applied to the 2019 VW Jetta as well.
Thanks for the video, at how many km it's needed to replace the timming belt on ea211 CPTA?
I recommend to replace the timing belt every 100,000km. However, the other might have different opinion.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks for your advise.
Do you recommend water pump with new thermostat or can you place the old one?
If there's no coolant leak, you don't need to replace it.
What if paint mark accidentally gets removed?
Hi,
On my golf 7 1.2 tsi (cjza) 2015 an mechanic did the timing belt yesterday without tool.
First time it lost power at high revs showing g28 and g40 codes, second time it shudders sometimes at low rps 1000-1200 rpm.
Did they damage my engine or I only need to find someone with tool to put it right.
Thanks,
If the mechanic unscrewed camshaft sprocket bolts, he should use the timing tool.
However, if engine is still running and there's no abnormal noise, you might need to align the timing correctly using a timing tool.
🎉🎉🎉
At which mileage/age do you recommend timing belt change for this model?
My recommendation is 100,000km/10years whichever comes first. Thank you for your comment!!
What if the 1.4 TSI also has the ACT option (2 cylinder mode) ? Is it ok to use your method ?
Yes, you can. No problems.
Great job. I have the mk6 1.4 tsi 2009 manual. Only 34k on clock. Not been serviced for 3 years as I do very few miles 3k p.a. Want to service the car now. Do I need the timing belt replaced as well and how much does it cost?
I live in Australia and, timing belt exchange costs around 1,200AUD. It can be differ from shops. Additionally, you must exchange engine oil and engine oil filter at least once a year, or every 10,000km whichever comes first. If you don't, it will spend more money than timing belt exchange to clean the oil slidge. Please remember the most important maintenance is the regular service.
Hello,
I have a question, how to loosen the crankshaft bolt?
I can’t lock the crankshaft with the tool, I don’t have it.
Do you have a solution?
Thank you.
Hello from France!
Hi there,
2:51 As you can see, the crankshaft will be rotated to anti-clockwise slightly when you unscrew the bolt.
3:04 So, after refilting the bolt with finger-tight, you need to rotate the crankshaft to clockwise until match the marks.
Thanks.
Okay, thank you for your response. :)
You know if I can do the timing belt on a CZEA EA211 engine? This motor have ACT system… I don’t want to buy the tool from VW (500$)
I found a Skoda workshop manual for a CPWA engine, which is what my Caddy has. It says to remove the CNG plumbing in order to gain access to the right side of the engine. Is that really necessary?
Sorry, I have no idea what CNG plumbing is..
Oh sorry. The natural gas fuel lines, high-pressure regulator etc.@@b.k.automotiveservices9489
I went to Skoda service with request about timing belt interval in Skoda Superb 1.4 TSI (czca engine code) they said 140000 miles or 15 years. I don't know what to think. I just bought superb 7 years old with 46k miles on the clock. Should I take risk and leave it as it is or replace immediately timing belt?
We advise to replace the timing belt kit at 100,000km or 10 years. However, please visit the workshop and get an advice from a mechanic regarding this matter.
Was it a pain to get the crank pulley off?
Normally, it is not difficult. I always use a rattle gun for removing it and there's been no problem.
Hello, sorry I didn’t understand why did you remove the plastic cover at 0:48 , what is it exactly?
That's the back of the intake cam. I think he was marking the timing. To be honest setting timing on this car is not bad all.
@@benz240d I see, going to do it soon with guidance from a mechanic friend, thanks !
What do you think about the 1.5 tsi engine?
Sorry, I don't have experience with 1.5 engine.
Hi
Is that same engine as passat b8 1.4 tsi ACT 2018??
Exactly same change??? Or its any difference?
Sorry for late reply. If your car's engine looks similar to this engine, maybe it will be the same procedure. If you are not sure, please visit the workshop nearby..
Hey dont you use any tool to lock te crankshaft?
Hi there, I didn't use any special tool for this task.
There is a key which is holding crank shaft sprocket from the crank shaft. So, the sprocket is not rotating around the crankshaft even if removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt(DH19). 2:49
Some engine doesn't have a key holding the sprockets on the camshafts or crankshafts. You need the special tool holding the position. But, not for this.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 oke thank you
And how do you support the engine?
I used a hoist to lift the car up and a jack stand is used for supporting the engine. Maybe you have to use a hydraulic jack with a flat rubber or wood block to support the engine. Please note that the engine oil level sensor is located under the oil sump. You must avoid this area when lifting the engine up with a jack.
Are you based in the UK?
Thanks
No, I'm in Australia.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 oh,not very close to do this on my car 😁 gret job btw.
Hello
Can you explain why you need to remove the 19mm bolt at 1.13
The hole where the 19mm bolt was is for inserting a timing tool that sets No.1 cylinder TDC. If you don't have a timing tool, you don't need to remove the bolt.
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 I see, so you only removed it to demonstrate and didn't actually use the tool. Right ?
Yes, it is.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks, please bear with me a little bit further.
I just wanna make sure that I can skip the bolt and take the rest of the necessary steps that you take in the video?
So I basically just start with cylinder one TDC and continue like the video ?
Yes. The most important thing is to set the No.1 cylinder on T.D.C and mark every single item with a pen correctly.
In a Golf7 1.4TSI 150PS (CZEA), in how many kilometers I have to change the timing belt for first time?
100,000km or 9~10years.
I went to Skoda service with request about timing belt interval in Skoda Superb 1.4 TSI (czca engine code) they said 140000 miles or 15 years. I don't what to think about it.
@@Lycos1985it's life time,after 210kkm they have to check it at every 30kkm
@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 if it is 100k km, why the VW manual book says it is life time ( lets assume not life time, but 100k km would be interesting!)
@@linhai1 I have a golf at 126000 now, bought second hand, paying attention a lot, I hear no extra sound, however I am planing to get it check, a bit paranoid, but 100k km is just none sense I think for a belt suppose to go at least 160k miles ( or 210k km)
Where can I find the workshop manual?
I uesd the technical reference system in my workshop. So, I am not sure of it. Sorry..
So i wanna change my timing belt and water pump, but apparently the pulleys are floating and needs locking tools that i dont have.
So do i absolutety need locking tools or can it be done without?
I've done this job without the timing tool as a mechanic. However, it's your decision and responsibility carrying out this job without the tools, mate.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks, I'm curious about what risk there is while doing the job without any tools?
Can't I just put the pulleys on the correct position before installing the new belt?
Incorrect timing can cause a damage of valves and pistons. Additionally, it will cause crankshaft if you didn't install crankshaft pulley on correct position. I advise that this job should be carried by a technician if you don't have confidence to do it. Sorry.
@b.k.automotiveservices9489 my only concern was about the locking tools that most videos I've seen are using.
I thought I could just time everything correctly, mark everything and install the new kit. Maybe I made it seem easier than it is.
Last question, what's the difference between floating pulleys and non floating.
@@laith7218 cam phasers is what there called. kind of variable time for cams. used the hydraulic pressure of the oil. personally I suggest you don't change it until it is a problem such as cracking of the timing belt. VW says this is a life time part but we all know there's no such thing. personally, my Jetta is 7 years old, at 206XXX kms and won't be changing my anytime soon but will continue to inspect every 20000 kms
Great example how not to do it. Timing belt on this engine should have been done with locking tools. This is an easy way to get correlations fault codes in ECU. Anyone interested in DIY chceck manuals first.
Wherever, if the engin are properly mark and not moving ?
Let me ask you this. How many times have you done timing belt exchange tasks of this engine without locking tool? Have you tried before? I recommend you try first before judging something. I've done this timing belt job more than 10 times without a tool. However, I have never seen any fault codes, and no cars came back with problems, mate.
If you made correct marks on the timing belt, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket, I am sure there will be no problem. Always, double check the marks before installing and after as well.
100% agree with you ! 👍👍
I will start the replace of belt I hope my wife gonna back to work Monday with 😂😂
Lucky you then. I`seen a few done this way,and ecu was saying "correlation" which means bogge didn`t work. There is a reason why on some of the engines you tension belt with cams locked,and cams sprockets bolts loose,this is one of them.
he did not say why take a bolt at 1:12
Hi mate, you don't need to remove the bolt as it is needed for checking and securing TDC. If I had a timing tool, I will insert the securing bolt in the kit.
Not a good video. I guess lots of people will get confused. U missed parts from the locking pin which not showing but thanks for sharing. I hope u made a good one in the future. U will need the tools for sure and water pump needs spec torque.
Thank you for your valuable comment. I agree with that there are many things skipped and proper tool should be used. I will do my best to improve the quality of the video now on.
You fail to mention if you set #1 on TDC for compression or exhaust stroke. You fail to mention marking the timing belt reference to crank sprocket. You fail to mention how to keep both cams in tune when they due to valve springs want to rotate.
I've failed to understand what you are trying to say to me, mate.