Not going to lie; I would have been happy with the restoration halfway thru the video haha. But you just kept going and going. Amazing work, though. Incredible work!
You are an awesome artist - I never get tried at seeing your miracle transformations - Thank-You on letting us watch - Simply WOW! 👍From Donbcdn Canada
Hey! I am an electrochemist as both a hobbyist and part of my profession. I would highly recommend you look into chrome dip plating. With this, you refurbish the clubs to their original coating. Now there is a high level of procaution that is needed but it is within your level of skill no doubt.
I'm fascinated by this. Can you point me to a product I can research? I'd love to learn this. Is this the same as the Caswell triple chrome method, or something entirely different (and simplified)?
@@BradMeehan so there is two types of methods possible: chromium iii then chromium vi. Criii is for decorative applications and “safe” and Crvi is usually for more corrosion resistance and durability; much less safe. I would say the Caswell Triple Chrome method is a good way to apply decorative chrome for more of a wall decorative club/set. I’d give the club like 2 rounds before the chrome is removed. If you want to plate the clubs with a more durable coating, chromium vi electroplating would be your best bet. Do your research and look up chrome vi tanks and management of the tanks to keep them from falling out of working order and if you do try stuff without proper safety, understand there are risks.
You’re so good at what you do you inspired only love in an internet comments section, I think that says it all, your work Sir is by definition miraculous 🫡
@@BradMeehan LOL... not quite. I'm 60 years old and have been playing golf since I was 5 years old. Made it to the USGA Mid-Amateur when I was 35. I love seeing these old clubs brought back to life! I have a set of '71-'72 Wilson Fluid Feels. Like what Johnny Miller used in his US Open win. I'd love to see those restored. I'd display them in my office. Now that, would make me full face cry.
I got into club restoration as a hobby a couple years ago. I love turning rusty bangers into jewels but you are FAR more skilled then I am. But I still love doing it as a hobby.
Thank you! Mission accomplished! The goal of this channel is to show you tutorials on how to do this at home, then sit back, relax, and see the steps unfold in a relaxing, soothing way. 😀 There is plenty more to see, so i hope you stick around, friend.
These are the best wedges Vokey made. He needs to bring them back with the conforming grooves. The SM line finally got the look and feel bank with the 9 series(for the most part).
Very nice Brad. My all time favorite clubs are wedges and I love them when they are all rusted out, but if I was every going to hand one off and let someone get their own feel and history, this is a perfect starting point. Keep up the great work!
I had a fully rusted Vokey in the bag I called Trusty Rusty. I loved how that thing looked in the bag. It was like looking at an old sergeant standing in front of the new recruits leading them into battle.
@@scwhitebirdy I do, but minimally. Just want to get a nice base before I blast it. The sandblaster hides some imperfections, but you get a better finish if you smooth it out a touch
Hi Joe. Check out the polishing tutorials in the channel homepage. I also have tutorials on how to make the plating tank. I'm learning a new technique for that which will make it even easier. There's also face reconditioning, head removal, and paint fill tutorials in the playlists.
Awesome video..!!! One question, If I want to make matte finish like the original finish (instead of glossy polished finish), would sandblasting the whole club head do the work? It would be awesome if you make a video on matte finishes like the original vokey wedge!
Amazing job. Would these have been completely raw at the 3:40 mark? Just wondering because I’d like to make a couple raw wedges out of some old ones I have
No. When clubs are chrome plated, there is a layer of nickel under it. The acid does not remove the nickel. I leave it there because im just going to add it back, so it saves time. I will do a video on how to make them raw.
Amazing work there, Brad. Would there be much loss in the way of swingweight after such a restoration and, if so, would you add weight down the hosel when epoxying or add lead tape? Thank you for the video. : )
@@BradMeehan I sure will! Just got a used set that I’m soaking the clubs as we speak. So you said if we don’t have the electric equipment we can use sand paper correct what grit ?
@rezamasomithemindisall9859 Hell yeah. If I'm being honest, starting like this, with no tools, will teach you more and make your clubs look 100 times better in the end. Start with like 160 or 200. Sand until every single shiny dot on the surface is gone. You'll see what I'm talking about when you're doing it. Then go to 400, 600, etc up to however shiny you want it. The higher the number, the finer it gets. Don't skip ahead too fast or it will bury a scratch under the finish. It will look like a mirror if you're patient. Also, just disappear for a few hours and enjoy yourself. It's great (free) therapy.
@@BradMeehan amazing feed back I appreciate that very much! as I totally agree that it can be therapeutic as I love carpentry and working with my hands and etc. I know I would definitely love this! One last question the last part that you finish off on the middle of the club what are you blasting at the club? The finisher part!? You taped everything and what is that gun and the chemical in it? It was that just air spray at high velocity ?
@rezamasomithemindisall9859 it's a cheap handheld sandblaster. They sell glass beads or more coarse media that shoots out of the gun. I use aluminum oxide. Check out the equipment links to see one. It's a cheap alternative to a blasting cabinet.
The process at 4:15, does that help chemically seal the metal? At what stage from the start could you call it good and it actually last the same time as it did from new?
@randomfocus1549 that step is just cleaning it to prep for plating. If you stop there, it will rust. Check out my electroless video. It's much more beginner friendly.
This turned out way better than expected! Almost like brand new actually. One gripe is that I think groove sharpeners make the grooves non-conforming. So I guess if you care about that you can skip the sharpening. But other than that you took care of everything! Like, usually when a plated club that isn't supposed to rust gets like that, it's surfaces are pretty wore down and the rust can be pretty deep. But it all polished right off. Then after you re-plated it I imagine it'll be unrustable again for a very long play time.
@@kramerdesignco Oh it's not the sharpness persay (Although there's a rule for that too: "5. Club Face". So it's possible to make them sharper than is conforming because they need to have a certain roundness ratio to the corner angle.), it's the width of grooves. They can only be 0.9mm wide because they channel debris away from the face and the wider they are, the more they channel. Golfwrx reported that Titleist Wedgeworks won't resharpen grooves because the margin is razor-thin between their conforming grooves to nonconforming. So a sharpener would likely remove too much material. I bet your next thought is that wear and tear would widen the grooves and you would be right. But there's actually a rule for that: "4.1a(1)/1 - Wear Through Normal Use Does Not Change Conformity". I swear there's a rule for everything at this point, lol! But this at least works in the player's favor because you wouldn't need to get new clubs all the time which would be very costly and of course make the game less accessible. My guess besides that as to why they are still conforming is likely because they checked grooves under a variety of wear and debris then found that the grooves widening are losing their sharpness (because it's primarily surface wear) and thus are either equal in usefulness because the wideness compensates or is detrimental because there's less groove edge able to grip the ball. I never looked into the studies though. (I only have looked up rules on stuff out of curiosity, not necessarily the science behind them.)
They now make wedges that are meant to rust. You can use a sharpener on grooves. You just have to use a sharpener that won't make the grooves wider than what's legal. Grooves actually tend to get thinner and shallower as they wear.
@@MichaelShinosky But how would you know if you aren't accidentally making them wider? If you get a sharpener that is the exact width you need for instance, getting it at a slight angle would widen it.
In the 1st section you dip the club head into a solution of muriactic acid. What other liquid was in your measuring cup? I didn't see a transcription. And how much of each liquid did you use and how long do you leave it soaking?? Ty
@richardramon2175 it's just water. However, the acid is already diluted to 30% do you don't have to diluted it any more. Always add acid to water, not water to acid. I'm guessing I had 25% water to acid. But, full strength is ok.
@@BradMeehan ty for your reply. I have just one more question if you don't mind? I have Titleist Volkey wedges which are brushed chrome plated. Do I need to skip your nickel plated step or?
@richardramon2175 No, you'd still need to protect it. The nickel plating with take in the surface condition of what's underneath. So if you brush up first, then plate it, it will look brushed in the end.
Amazing work and I have a couple of sets of 1961-62 vintage irons similar to yours...and some mp-32's that are my daily clubs. Question, how do I know whether the irons were nickel plated or chrome plated? And what do you do about grooves? Ever resharpen them?
Looks fantastic, but how long will the face last, before wearing through it to a rust spot, compared to a new club. Is the chrome as thick? Do new clubs have a copper layer under the chrome?
Thank you. Some manufacturers use a copper layer under over the bare steel to fill in imperfections (or get more 'feel', like Mizunos), but I didn't see any under this Vokey. I'm doing a pretty thin layer for the sake of the video, but the longer you plate, the thicker it will get. Nickel is pretty tough. You'll see if you sand clubs with paper, it's pretty difficult to remove with even 120 grit and a lot of time. There are copy-chrome options with harder materials, but I'm cheap and lazy and haven't tried it yet.
Brilliant as always Brad. Maybe a silly question, but without taping up the face, why doesn't the shot blasted surface pick up the nickel and alter the finish?
I'm pretty sure it did pick up the nickel. But since the face is already textured, it too becomes textured because the nickel follows those small contours. I got this info from some other restoration video (Been' so long I forgot what one) that said anything about the surface of the metal being plated will show as it was, so it's important to get it the way you want it before plating, including getting it really clean. Therefor I guess because the sandblasting put a bit of texture on the face, that texture showed when plated.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for replying! I’ll keep that in mind, I just want to get the minor ball/wear mark scratches off the face and then sand blast it. They aren’t too deep so I’m hoping it doesn’t result in loss of performance. Love the videos keep it up!
Bruh! That’s reincarnation not restoration
What a great comment. I'm pinning this one to the top! Thanks, man.
Not going to lie; I would have been happy with the restoration halfway thru the video haha. But you just kept going and going. Amazing work, though. Incredible work!
Thanks for the compliment!
That’s not restoration, that’s art.
Dude, you do incredible work.
Love it. Thanks for the nice comment!
@@BradMeehan honestly. that is better than new I'd say!
Made me say “WOW!” out loud in awe and amazement! Great job!
@@J.C.LeatherCo thank you!
Your vision and ability to find the treasure and beauty buried beneath the rust, dirt and scratches continues to amazing me! Incredible work sir!
Thank you, my friend! I'm glad you liked it.
By far the best one of seen on TH-cam
By far my favorite gc iron restore. Checked all the boxes.
Nice and shiny, easier to find after I toss it in the bush after a shank 👌🏼
One guy here said he got his club from his dad as a reward for climbing up a tree to get it down.
This is the exact wedge I still play with. I’ve tried replacing it a few times. But I always go back to it. Great video.
Unbelievable. What a talent. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the nice compliment. You guys keep me going. I'd love it if you shared one with your golf mates.
@@BradMeehan I did. Just told a bunch of them at golf league tonight about your channel and how relaxing it is to watch.
Bro, this was one of the most satisfying videos I’ve ever seen. Amazing work!!
Honestly, comments like this are the reason I keep making these. I really appreciate that you took the time to write this to me.
Amazing!
Looks better than a brand new wedge! Great work brother.
I appreciate it!
I have a 54 degree vokey wedge in terrible condition given to me by a well aged senior player, wish I could do what you do! Amazing work sir!
That was the best restoration Ive ever seen.
Thank you. I would love it if you shared the video with some friends.
You are a talented dude. Nice work. I’m blown away
Thank you. Please share with friends!
I’m in shock at how good it looks.
You are an awesome artist - I never get tried at seeing your miracle transformations - Thank-You on letting us watch - Simply WOW! 👍From Donbcdn Canada
You are so welcome
This is my favorite restoration, incredible
Thank you!
Hey! I am an electrochemist as both a hobbyist and part of my profession. I would highly recommend you look into chrome dip plating. With this, you refurbish the clubs to their original coating. Now there is a high level of procaution that is needed but it is within your level of skill no doubt.
I'm fascinated by this. Can you point me to a product I can research? I'd love to learn this. Is this the same as the Caswell triple chrome method, or something entirely different (and simplified)?
@@BradMeehan so there is two types of methods possible: chromium iii then chromium vi. Criii is for decorative applications and “safe” and Crvi is usually for more corrosion resistance and durability; much less safe. I would say the Caswell Triple Chrome method is a good way to apply decorative chrome for more of a wall decorative club/set. I’d give the club like 2 rounds before the chrome is removed. If you want to plate the clubs with a more durable coating, chromium vi electroplating would be your best bet. Do your research and look up chrome vi tanks and management of the tanks to keep them from falling out of working order and if you do try stuff without proper safety, understand there are risks.
You’re so good at what you do you inspired only love in an internet comments section, I think that says it all, your work Sir is by definition miraculous 🫡
@@beardsmith Thank you. People have been really kind with their nice comments here. I appreciate you taking the time to add to the list!
That was so touching, I wanted to cry at the end.
Like, a full cry-face? I'd love a pic of that to add to the thumbnail.
@@BradMeehan LOL... not quite. I'm 60 years old and have been playing golf since I was 5 years old. Made it to the USGA Mid-Amateur when I was 35. I love seeing these old clubs brought back to life! I have a set of '71-'72 Wilson Fluid Feels. Like what Johnny Miller used in his US Open win. I'd love to see those restored. I'd display them in my office. Now that, would make me full face cry.
That's some excellent work. I use to think i would want to restore some of this stuff, but that's not restoration, that is a true art form
Thank you. This is my art. I love reviving them. It's also pretty simple, so don't hesitate to try it. Happy to answer any questions.
Video kept getting better and better
Brilliant work. So shiny. Regards from South Africa
South Africa! Cool! Thanks for watching!
I got into club restoration as a hobby a couple years ago. I love turning rusty bangers into jewels but you are FAR more skilled then I am. But I still love doing it as a hobby.
I'd love to see some before and after pics if you'd like to share them with the channel?
I've got to admit, I got a little excited down below when I watched this, and it wasn't even a Cleveland 588 wedge! Great job!
Just a little tingle
I have a Cleveland 48 degree wedge and love it.
Thank you for showing the restoration process, the end result is stunning. So beautiful, it would be a shame to use.
DIY with this guys help maybe. Great work.
WOW.......that was so soothing strangely enough, that is crazy !! I honestly sat here watching this in awe, what great work 👏 👍
Thank you! Mission accomplished! The goal of this channel is to show you tutorials on how to do this at home, then sit back, relax, and see the steps unfold in a relaxing, soothing way. 😀 There is plenty more to see, so i hope you stick around, friend.
@@BradMeehan most definitely mate, new subscriber from Sydney, Australia 🇦🇺
That’s the beauty of well made items
Astonishing results, bravo!
Thank you for taking the time to comment. It's what keeps me going!
Best restoration I’ve seen to date .. great work 💪🏻😊
Thank you!
WOW man hats off to you!!! Brilliant
Thank you. I'm happy you found my channel. More to come!
Magic ! Do you offer this as a paid restoration service ?
What's old is new again. Love it!
These are the best wedges Vokey made. He needs to bring them back with the conforming grooves. The SM line finally got the look and feel bank with the 9 series(for the most part).
What a job you have made of that wedge cheers jj
Thanks! It's one of my favorites (so far)
beautiful. i cant wait to send some clubs of mine to you in the future.
wow ... awsome man! Good Job Brad
Thank you!
Just so cool to watch... what a transformation
I appreciate it. New video tomorrow!
Breathtaking art!
This is actually wild. Amazing work
Thanks! It's really satisfying to take it through the transformation. I hope you give it a try!
Very nice Brad. My all time favorite clubs are wedges and I love them when they are all rusted out, but if I was every going to hand one off and let someone get their own feel and history, this is a perfect starting point. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, Matt. I'm making a video soon on how to make a club raw (and rusty). They look so cool like that.
Outstanding work! It looks better than new!
Thanks! The guy I bought it from said "want to sell it?" lol.
unbelieveable great job. that is a masterpiece
Thank you, sir.
Beautiful art.
Thank you so much 😀
Wow! That came out great! I’m curious why the acid bath before doing the paint fill removal? Kinda surprised the acid bath doesn’t remove the paint.
Beautiful! Better than new.
Be interesting to see how this club actually performs now
With spin rates etc
I have one of these clubs that has a little wear on it but it’s my favorite club in my bag. I will never get rid of it.
I had a fully rusted Vokey in the bag I called Trusty Rusty. I loved how that thing looked in the bag. It was like looking at an old sergeant standing in front of the new recruits leading them into battle.
Beautiful work
Thank you very much!
Club is beautiful. Before you hit the groove section of the face with the media blaster, do you hit it with all the wheels and compounds?
@@scwhitebirdy I do, but minimally. Just want to get a nice base before I blast it. The sandblaster hides some imperfections, but you get a better finish if you smooth it out a touch
@@BradMeehanthank you for the quick response. Love your videos!
Amazing! Talent at its best!
Wow! very talented man
@@Gate3739 thanks!
Well done that was top notch
Better than new! I put a like, it deserved two!
It looked amazing even before you plated it. Could you have effectively stopped after the polishing step?
Not really. It will start to rust again. The nickel is for corrosion prevention and a bit of durability.
@@BradMeehan ahhhh, that makes sense. You’re down to bare metal at that point. Thanks for the reply.
Hi again. Question: do you refinish clubs for customers? I have a set of vokeys that I’d love to have refinished.
@chazzman8206 No sir. Admittedly, I'm too lazy to do it as a service. I'd rather show you how to do it. I can't begin to tell you how easy this is.
Just amazing - what a finish!
Great work! Very impressive. Could I send my wedges to get done?
Really nice work . Keep those videos coming . Awesome work.
Thanks, Manuel. Always appreciate your nice comments.
That is an art beautiful work!
@colby6968 thanks! Glad you liked it.
what’s the proper way to dispose of the chemical after you’re done?? i wish i could do all this. great job !
Somehow looks better than a factory Vokey. Great job!
that's brilliant i agree with the reincarnation comment ...what type of black paint was used ?
@parorbetter77 thank you. It's just enamel. You can use nail polish, too. Just be sure to degrease everything so the paint sticks.
Damnnnnn !!!!! Do my 58 Vokey too lol! Stuff looks amazingly nice, good work
That's now a masterpiece!!
Thank you! This was one of my favorites!
Beautiful work
Impressive work.
Thank you!
That’s amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Tolles Video, bin sprachlos.
Hello Brad, awesome job. Do have a video on how to get started.
Hi Joe. Check out the polishing tutorials in the channel homepage. I also have tutorials on how to make the plating tank. I'm learning a new technique for that which will make it even easier. There's also face reconditioning, head removal, and paint fill tutorials in the playlists.
Phenomenal job!
Awesome video..!!!
One question,
If I want to make matte finish like the original finish (instead of glossy polished finish), would sandblasting the whole club head do the work?
It would be awesome if you make a video on matte finishes like the original vokey wedge!
Yes! Check this out: th-cam.com/video/RJ8_XChCtBU/w-d-xo.html
@@BradMeehan thanks :)
It always helps a lot!!
Great job. You make it look easy. I know it isn't easy to get that great result.
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing job. Would these have been completely raw at the 3:40 mark? Just wondering because I’d like to make a couple raw wedges out of some old ones I have
No. When clubs are chrome plated, there is a layer of nickel under it. The acid does not remove the nickel. I leave it there because im just going to add it back, so it saves time. I will do a video on how to make them raw.
It’s beautiful
Thanks, Jacob.
Can you do a video just on groove refurbishment? I bought one of those groove sharpeners and it didn't work. Just cleans the grooves.
Amazing work there, Brad. Would there be much loss in the way of swingweight after such a restoration and, if so, would you add weight down the hosel when epoxying or add lead tape? Thank you for the video. : )
I have the perfect video for you: th-cam.com/video/ILSuEPAtgtg/w-d-xo.html
@@BradMeehan Thank you! ⛳😊
Great work going to try this! Thank you 🙏 for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Hit me up with questions.
@@BradMeehan I sure will! Just got a used set that I’m soaking the clubs as we speak. So you said if we don’t have the electric equipment we can use sand paper correct what grit ?
@rezamasomithemindisall9859 Hell yeah. If I'm being honest, starting like this, with no tools, will teach you more and make your clubs look 100 times better in the end.
Start with like 160 or 200. Sand until every single shiny dot on the surface is gone. You'll see what I'm talking about when you're doing it. Then go to 400, 600, etc up to however shiny you want it. The higher the number, the finer it gets. Don't skip ahead too fast or it will bury a scratch under the finish. It will look like a mirror if you're patient.
Also, just disappear for a few hours and enjoy yourself. It's great (free) therapy.
@@BradMeehan amazing feed back I appreciate that very much! as I totally agree that it can be therapeutic as I love carpentry and working with my hands and etc. I know I would definitely love this! One last question the last part that you finish off on the middle of the club what are you blasting at the club? The finisher part!? You taped everything and what is that gun and the chemical in it? It was that just air spray at high velocity ?
@rezamasomithemindisall9859 it's a cheap handheld sandblaster. They sell glass beads or more coarse media that shoots out of the gun. I use aluminum oxide. Check out the equipment links to see one. It's a cheap alternative to a blasting cabinet.
The process at 4:15, does that help chemically seal the metal? At what stage from the start could you call it good and it actually last the same time as it did from new?
@randomfocus1549 that step is just cleaning it to prep for plating. If you stop there, it will rust. Check out my electroless video. It's much more beginner friendly.
Really well done
Awesome work
First of all. What a joy to watch❤. My question. How long do you have to put the clubhead in the nickel solution?
Me too.
can you do Callaway Jaws wedges? they have that black/smoke finish
This turned out way better than expected! Almost like brand new actually.
One gripe is that I think groove sharpeners make the grooves non-conforming. So I guess if you care about that you can skip the sharpening.
But other than that you took care of everything! Like, usually when a plated club that isn't supposed to rust gets like that, it's surfaces are pretty wore down and the rust can be pretty deep. But it all polished right off. Then after you re-plated it I imagine it'll be unrustable again for a very long play time.
is it non conforming if you return grooves to their previous sharpness? That seems silly
@@kramerdesignco Oh it's not the sharpness persay (Although there's a rule for that too: "5. Club Face". So it's possible to make them sharper than is conforming because they need to have a certain roundness ratio to the corner angle.), it's the width of grooves. They can only be 0.9mm wide because they channel debris away from the face and the wider they are, the more they channel. Golfwrx reported that Titleist Wedgeworks won't resharpen grooves because the margin is razor-thin between their conforming grooves to nonconforming. So a sharpener would likely remove too much material.
I bet your next thought is that wear and tear would widen the grooves and you would be right. But there's actually a rule for that: "4.1a(1)/1 - Wear Through Normal Use Does Not Change Conformity". I swear there's a rule for everything at this point, lol! But this at least works in the player's favor because you wouldn't need to get new clubs all the time which would be very costly and of course make the game less accessible. My guess besides that as to why they are still conforming is likely because they checked grooves under a variety of wear and debris then found that the grooves widening are losing their sharpness (because it's primarily surface wear) and thus are either equal in usefulness because the wideness compensates or is detrimental because there's less groove edge able to grip the ball. I never looked into the studies though. (I only have looked up rules on stuff out of curiosity, not necessarily the science behind them.)
They now make wedges that are meant to rust. You can use a sharpener on grooves. You just have to use a sharpener that won't make the grooves wider than what's legal. Grooves actually tend to get thinner and shallower as they wear.
@@MichaelShinosky But how would you know if you aren't accidentally making them wider? If you get a sharpener that is the exact width you need for instance, getting it at a slight angle would widen it.
@@PkGam With a machine tool sure. With a hand tool - not very likely.
Very impressive!
I'm glad you found it. Thanks for watching and please share!
That was a pleasure to watch! Amazing work….. 👍
Thank you. I'd love it if you shared a video with your golf mates.
Great work!
Thank you, sir!
In the 1st section you dip the club head into a solution of muriactic acid. What other liquid was in your measuring cup? I didn't see a transcription. And how much of each liquid did you use and how long do you leave it soaking?? Ty
@richardramon2175 it's just water. However, the acid is already diluted to 30% do you don't have to diluted it any more. Always add acid to water, not water to acid. I'm guessing I had 25% water to acid. But, full strength is ok.
@@richardramon2175 about 15 min. You'll see the bubbles stop.
@@BradMeehan ty for your reply. I have just one more question if you don't mind?
I have Titleist Volkey wedges which are brushed chrome plated. Do I need to skip your nickel plated step or?
@richardramon2175 No, you'd still need to protect it. The nickel plating with take in the surface condition of what's underneath. So if you brush up first, then plate it, it will look brushed in the end.
really nice work!
All I can say is wow
Amazing work and I have a couple of sets of 1961-62 vintage irons similar to yours...and some mp-32's that are my daily clubs. Question, how do I know whether the irons were nickel plated or chrome plated? And what do you do about grooves? Ever resharpen them?
What type of blast media did you use on the face? I have the Black Aluminum Oxide, but is that aggressive enough?
Looks fantastic, but how long will the face last, before wearing through it to a rust spot, compared to a new club. Is the chrome as thick? Do new clubs have a copper layer under the chrome?
Thank you. Some manufacturers use a copper layer under over the bare steel to fill in imperfections (or get more 'feel', like Mizunos), but I didn't see any under this Vokey. I'm doing a pretty thin layer for the sake of the video, but the longer you plate, the thicker it will get. Nickel is pretty tough. You'll see if you sand clubs with paper, it's pretty difficult to remove with even 120 grit and a lot of time. There are copy-chrome options with harder materials, but I'm cheap and lazy and haven't tried it yet.
This is crazy good work
wonderful work, did you cover the face when you re-plated?
No, I plate there, too. I texture the hitting area with the sand blaster and plate over that.
Brilliant as always Brad. Maybe a silly question, but without taping up the face, why doesn't the shot blasted surface pick up the nickel and alter the finish?
I'm pretty sure it did pick up the nickel. But since the face is already textured, it too becomes textured because the nickel follows those small contours. I got this info from some other restoration video (Been' so long I forgot what one) that said anything about the surface of the metal being plated will show as it was, so it's important to get it the way you want it before plating, including getting it really clean. Therefor I guess because the sandblasting put a bit of texture on the face, that texture showed when plated.
This is correct!
Just wondering, does handing sanding the dent off the face results in the grooves having less spin and being compromised?
It depends on how much material you remove. But, there are groove sharpening tools you can use to help get the bite back.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for replying! I’ll keep that in mind, I just want to get the minor ball/wear mark scratches off the face and then sand blast it. They aren’t too deep so I’m hoping it doesn’t result in loss of performance. Love the videos keep it up!