*- I like the paint.* *- It works to generate Inspiration for me because it makes me feel a sense of accomplishment.* *- The color will make the machine feel proud of itself . . . and you proud of yourself too.* *- Striving needs its proper and due recognition. Paint shows that, both to you and the world.*
...especially the tractor. When he's done that is gonna be one happy tractor. These machines are happiest doing their designed purposes. Just like human beans...
I think you will be money ahead when you're done. Granted, it's expensive up front, but you will have a rebuilt machine to work your place that you can count on for years.
OMG 😱 man I’m enjoying watching your build here - but always leave the nut threaded on when pulling them things apart, it will capture the energy instead of flying apart when it does let go. Leave it loose by a couple threads. Can’t wait to see you drive it out of the shop!
That's why rebuilding a dozer without a machine shop or at least a couple of welders/plasma cutters is a total nightmare. You have to buy every single part that you could otherwise build/weld/cut from scrap.
I am having some problems since my stroke and trying to make sense with sentences.. I am very happy that you did a break down on these costs and involved outputs you are vested. I see more of what or how you see it and yes, you are very much vested ahead. Sad to think that fellow has so many pieces an not so much for yours...., kinda like in a boat in the ocean needing a drink of water. Something I did on places where there were grooves for a gasket or seal, I used a powersaw pull cord and hammered it flat with ritestuff gasket glue. There are all different thicknesses of rope so you might make your own or a variant of your own. Its hard to explain all the things except being there and hands on memory comes about. A great video and yes I enjoyed it
When I used to own a small hardware store, I sold a Teflon rope packing. It replaced twisted graphite packing used by plumbers. If you find the correct diameter it would work for the seal by sticking in the groove with RTV just to hold for assembly.
You haven't failed Matt. You are just reassessing the job and figuring out the process. To everything there is a learning curve. Once you accomplish it, you'll be a pro and an authority on it. Just yesterday, I had to replace the starboard engine flying bridge shift cable on my motor yacht. It snapped off at the base of the shifter right where the threaded portion of the cable ends. The cable is 18' long and 3/8" diameter at the outer jacket. But... I didn't know how long it was so I had to pull it out to measure it in order to order a new one. They come in one foot increments 6 to 82 feet. Now, how to get that long stiff cable down two levels to where it hooks up to the cable linkage junction in the equipment space below the salon deck. It's tight and confined where it runs through two decks and blind wire raceways crowded with 3 other cables, three hydraulic steering lines, countless wire cables for radar, and instruments and all sorts of accessories. The chance of success looked bleak I admit. But, using the broken cable and a lot of up and down the bridge ladder, I figured out in two stages I could get it through the tight spots pushing up. Lower helm up to upper helm, tape new onto old and pull it carefully down from above. Then from equipment space up to lower helm, tape it on and pull it down. This all took several tries but I got it and completed the job. Now if I had to do it again... I know just exactly how it's done. You are learning so much with your project. Perseverance pays off! Love your videos. 👍
I have become a fan of your rebuild. Most of all, I am liking your intent to best availble refit. Because, this project requires fitting in aptitude. That to surface condition, (as shown to the flanking gasket surface by epoxy steel, brake bands...of which I view excellent to end use..and more as engine maint, hydralic pressures, fluid as cooling..ect. And what of that end use? A powerful, functional horsepower delivered to traction and blade. *possible winch to timber. Reliable to weather, difficult terrain. So it is, all of the clean up, rust remove, alignment process , paint to protect... individual to system components come together at the operator hands. And here, where those hands are crafting systems...seem likely to prudent and long term service. M.
This project is very challenging, mainly because you need a better equipped workshop which unfortunately you don't have, on the other hand you have a lot of ability to work things out. In my humble opinion since you intend to use this machine in your own property you must at all costs try and limit the scope of repairs. After all this machine is not going to work thousands of hours and caterpillars are very robust. Be ruthless in your assessment of cost versus benefit analysis. You're not bringing this machine to showroom condition but to a reasonable working condition. You've already done a hell of a lot to improve this machine and when it is finished it will look much better than when you hauled it out of the bush. I hope you find this suggestion useful. Cheers from Oz.
Matt I just love the way your doing this I know For most of us we can all buy very use worn out retro cat dozer for only few thousands dollars. But the thing the owners know there worn out most of the parts on them are very rusted and worn down And in a very short time they will all brake down. But by doing this in this way your not just refurbishing an old cat dozer But restoring it to it original specification in this way your making sure it will serve you with out frustrating brake downs for many years to come. keep up the good work.
Yeah, Trash both plates.With all the effort you're putting in. Diff cover came out good. If that's the color for the tractor, you'll never get lost in the woods with that yellow. Possible CCW on the nut for the 2nd gear shaft? A couple of stumbles, but no big trip ups. The struggle continues. KUTGW!
Watched every minute of it! Seems as if your jumbled moments are still quite entertaining(especially on a grey and rainy PNW day). Thanks for the content!
I think you need to get a sandblasting cabinet...mine was a lifesaver when I was restoring motorcycles. Even a Harbor Freight will do a great job for parts the size you're doing. Plus, it doesn't spread dust and dirt in your shop like the wire wheel on a drill does!
Thank you so much Mr. Mat for your excelent video and work!!... I saw all your´s video from Santiago de Chile... Best regards and God blest you and all people of EEUU!!
Ok Mat, this is a bit late but something for you to consider for the future. Hydraulic jacks are normally used to raise objects off the ground. There are times, however, where using a jack horizontally is necessary. Projects like yours can benefit from using a jack to spread or push the parts. Bottle jacks are the only jack that operates in this way. Using a hydraulic jack in a horizontal position requires that the pump be lower than the piston. This prevents the hydraulic fluid from leaking into the piston reservoir and causing a loss of pressure. Step 1: Twist the release valve counterclockwise using the notch on the end of the jack handle to lower the piston completely. Turn the valve clockwise once the piston is down. Step 2: Place the jack on its side with the pump below the reservoir. The reservoir is the cylinder that contains the jack piston and the pump is where you insert the handle. Step 3: Hold the jack in a straight horizontal position with one hand and use the handle to operate the pump. Pump the handle side to side until the base of the jack and the face of the piston are against the object you are trying to press/pull. I hope this is of some help to you. Play safe from Elliot Lake Ontario, Canada.
I've been watching your restoration progress and am enjoying the videos. Squatch253 may be able to answer some of your more technical questions and other unknowns. I watch his channel as well and he seems to be extremely knowledgeable these older Cats
You’ve got the best picture quality on TH-cam: must be a great camera. Always interested in what you send out; it doesn’t matter if it’s a jumble, it’s like just catching up in various areas of the rebuild. I’ve really never held a wrench in my 67 years, but I love fixing things vicariously through guys like you, and Watch Wes Work, and Eric’s South Main Auto. It gives me confidence when I like change my oil or run wires for a dash cam 🤣🤣🤣
That metal filler putty is activated by your body heat. That's why they instruct you to use your fingers to mix it. It's definitely interesting watching you rebuilding this Cat.
Consider removing tool rest's from your wire wheel ! There for grinding wheels on a pedestal grinder, wire wheel will flex allowing fingers to fit in, to the bone so fast!
On those inspection plates use under coating rubber on the plate and no gasket done this on few machines keeps water out and makes removale easier. Grainger has Sealing Gasket Sheet,comes in many thicknesses.
Matt I love your video’s believe it or not it’s a type of therapy for myself. You are quite the young man and I totally respect you and your, can do, mechanical ability. Thank you and I look so forward to all your next videos. Can’t wait for the dozer to move its first task under your control.
You're going to be a certified cat mechanic before long. Good job. Like a fellow who learns as he goes. I'd borrow it from you when finished, but freight would kill me to south arkansas. Lol
Keep up the good work. Love watching from my comfortable chair. No mess, no sore fingers and even my wife is not on me! Your project will turn out better than you think.
Need cork filler for a seal? Try cork modle train road bed. You can get different thicknesses, can be easily cut & trimmed. Might work for this application.
The cover plates are flat steel, easy to remake. Use stainless steel. Water will appear inside the closed space due to condensation, can't stop it unless you make it gas tight and fill the gearbox with dry gas. Alternatively use a dessiccant, or have a small electric heater in the oil to get the whole thing above the dew point, and run it periodically. Air WILL leak and it will have moisture and it will condense. The cover plate gaskets will seal out liquid water, no need to change the gasket surface. You could also add a breather with a dessiccant. The gearbox will get warm during use, air will expand and push out thru porosity, then when it cools down it will contract and suck in moist air, which at some point will condense. Water in oil not so good. Hygrophobic oil would be expensive.
Good diligent work, and of course you now have an intimate knowledge of how your machine ticks. Colour is fantastic, love it. After rebuilding and making the insides like new, there's nothing like gleaming paint to re-inforce that on the outside. Re the pitting on the covers, hopefully the epoxy putty seals, but perhaps heating the metal with a torch and letting solder flow into it then filing smooth would've been more solid.
About your new battle wound: my daddy always says, "if you ain't doing nothing-nothing ain't gonna happen" And memember... wounds heal n chic dig scars
Good video. Even at break even on cost, what you have after the rebuild is a solid machine that you know top to bottom. Divided by the years of expected service.
Great vid Matt. not a mess at all. The post issue is the same everywhere, where I am, if there is any hint of covid at the postal distribution centre, they completely shut it down until whatever has been cleared. Its made everything grind to a stand still. Its extremely annoying and another issue business have to deal with.
I highly recommend using 4” high density foam paint rollers. Applies a nice even coat that will dry properly. Especially on surfaces that you will see, you won’t get the brush stroke lines or runs from the brush applying too much. And if you sand with 150 or 220 grit in between coats you can achieve a really nice finish. And wait a solid 24 hours in between coats. Let it dry for up to a month before hitting the machine with branches and what not and finally wash it with cold water and soap, seems to harden it further
Noticed that you are using the press Apron from a 12 or 20 ton hydraulic press while working on the steering clutches. Just like to point out that if you have access to a 5/8" to 1" piece of steel you can drill a few 5/8" holes for the all-thread to fit through and then bolt the assembly to the press Apron. Of course you would also need to drill a hole for the press pin to fit through. May also require a short piece of pipe to use as a coupling around the base of your presses pressure point and either a large grade 8 bolt or piece of round stock to couple to the press shaft. Also a piece of brass round stock and a hammer to help shock the shaft while it has a little pressure on it does wonders in breaking things loose.
Cat makes a gasket for the C7 engine rocker cover. it's about 1/2" X 1/4" thick that may solve your gasketing issue in some of those seal areas and comes in pretty long length (like 3-4 ft long) so you can cut it to suite.
We use Teflon Tape - It has an adhesive back and comes in all thicknesses and widths - excellent sealing for oils ect. - it compacts well and you can remove cover plates and refit without destroying your seal - we use it also on steam related surfaces so has high temperature resistance
Squatch253 channel has a video series that shows a lot of the same processes. May want to review the videos there for some pointers. His is smaller but many of the parts are quite similar just smaller.
Dittos on that suggestion. He put together quite an elaborate process to disassemble and reassemble the steering clutches. Apparently there's several tons of pressure (15,000?) to deal with and doing it wrong could get dangerous. Stay safe.
Use the gray RTV gasket maker that they are using on Duramax and Power Stroke oil pans instead of pan gaskets. It works good, and all you have to do is install the cover a little loose and let the RTV set over night, then torque the cover the next day to get the compressed gasket you’re looking for.
You can make a socket for the round nut. Get a piece of heavy tube that fits over the round part. Weld in pieces of key stock that locate in the grooves.
ingenious solution for the puller - too bad it doesn't work. special transmission nut - hammer and punch. 4600 smackers - cheap at three times the price and look at how much fun you're having. keep up the good work - don't fix stuff that don't need fixin.
You'll be ahead, it should be a sound serviceable machine, get the black rtv and put a thin even coat on with your finger, use the wool or whatever cat is using or replacing it with when possible
Why are you trying to take the hub / clutch pack off the shaft? are you going to replace the differential bearings? Just the clutch parts can be removed by removing the springs.
Shiny yellow!! I'll see if I can send you a photo of that gasket tomorrow. (UK time) it comes in rolls and you cut it to length. I have tons of the stuff for doing pump seals.
maybe some graphite square rope, or just regular rope but the graphite helps a lot with fricion but are hard to glue on if not using grease to hold it in place, love your videos and good luck from sweden ;)
I maxed out my 8 ton bottle jack by using an extra long handle 🤣 nothing exploded, and the bottle jack seals let go inside and lost all pressure. I was using it to bend open the channel that an excavator track idler/tensioner rides in as it had been squished
For your puller I would recommend going to your local steel supply store and get a peice of 1018 cold rolled 4x4 bar stock and have the put in a couple 5/8" oblong holes and you'll be set there...as for the nut on the counter shaft..it looks very similar to the spindle nut on the late 80's early 90's 4x4 ford ranger/bronco II equipped with automatic locking hubs...it's been a while can't remember if they're hex or oct but it's worth looking into...note the automatic hubs use a different style spindle nut than the manual lock outs so specify automatic when looking for the socket...back to the steering clutches...I wouldn't even pull them off the shaft unless absolutely necessary...I would just rebuild them as is if possible
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
dude put the nut back on befor u press that apart keep it captured or it will fly apart
lol yeah that occurred to me later
About one turn off
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Watch Squatch^s video on how to do it and save your life and fingers.
Yeah, as soon as I saw him taking that nut off first, I thought “big mistake”......
I am a mechanic worked on cats for 30 years i use my wifes tablet lol
*- I like the paint.*
*- It works to generate Inspiration for me because it makes me feel a sense of accomplishment.*
*- The color will make the machine feel proud of itself . . . and you proud of yourself too.*
*- Striving needs its proper and due recognition. Paint shows that, both to you and the world.*
...especially the tractor. When he's done that is gonna be one happy tractor. These machines are happiest doing their designed purposes. Just like human beans...
I think you will be money ahead when you're done. Granted, it's expensive up front, but you will have a rebuilt machine to work your place that you can count on for years.
I haven’t laughed so hard in months. That little teeny jack broke all those metal pieces so fast. Wow.
Cast iron is strong but brittle. Sorry TH-cam isn’t releasing your videos in order. I’m subscribed now everything is good thanks for sharing.
OMG 😱 man I’m enjoying watching your build here - but always leave the nut threaded on when pulling them things apart, it will capture the energy instead of flying apart when it does let go. Leave it loose by a couple threads. Can’t wait to see you drive it out of the shop!
That's why rebuilding a dozer without a machine shop or at least a couple of welders/plasma cutters is a total nightmare.
You have to buy every single part that you could otherwise build/weld/cut from scrap.
it's enjoyable watching the complexity --- from my chair. tks
I am having some problems since my stroke and trying to make sense with sentences.. I am very happy that you did a break down on these costs and involved outputs you are vested. I see more of what or how you see it and yes, you are very much vested ahead. Sad to think that fellow has so many pieces an not so much for yours...., kinda like in a boat in the ocean needing a drink of water. Something I did on places where there were grooves for a gasket or seal, I used a powersaw pull cord and hammered it flat with ritestuff gasket glue. There are all different thicknesses of rope so you might make your own or a variant of your own. Its hard to explain all the things except being there and hands on memory comes about. A great video and yes I enjoyed it
So far everyone says its the stuff that makes them happy to watch. I know I am as its the third time for me to watch with others drooling.
When I used to own a small hardware store, I sold a Teflon rope packing. It replaced twisted graphite packing used by plumbers. If you find the correct diameter it would work for the seal by sticking in the groove with RTV just to hold for assembly.
I enjoy you showing us the nooks and crannies of your D4
You haven't failed Matt. You are just reassessing the job and figuring out the process. To everything there is a learning curve. Once you accomplish it, you'll be a pro and an authority on it.
Just yesterday, I had to replace the starboard engine flying bridge shift cable on my motor yacht. It snapped off at the base of the shifter right where the threaded portion of the cable ends. The cable is 18' long and 3/8" diameter at the outer jacket. But... I didn't know how long it was so I had to pull it out to measure it in order to order a new one. They come in one foot increments 6 to 82 feet.
Now, how to get that long stiff cable down two levels to where it hooks up to the cable linkage junction in the equipment space below the salon deck. It's tight and confined where it runs through two decks and blind wire raceways crowded with 3 other cables, three hydraulic steering lines, countless wire cables for radar, and instruments and all sorts of accessories. The chance of success looked bleak I admit.
But, using the broken cable and a lot of up and down the bridge ladder, I figured out in two stages I could get it through the tight spots pushing up. Lower helm up to upper helm, tape new onto old and pull it carefully down from above. Then from equipment space up to lower helm, tape it on and pull it down. This all took several tries but I got it and completed the job. Now if I had to do it again... I know just exactly how it's done. You are learning so much with your project. Perseverance pays off! Love your videos. 👍
I worked for a company that restored antique cars. When badly rusted we’d sandblast with a light grit. It was so quick.
I have become a fan of your rebuild. Most of all, I am liking your intent to best availble refit. Because, this project requires fitting in aptitude. That to surface condition, (as shown to the flanking gasket surface by epoxy steel, brake bands...of which I view excellent to end use..and more as engine maint, hydralic pressures, fluid as cooling..ect.
And what of that end use? A powerful, functional horsepower delivered to traction and blade. *possible winch to timber. Reliable to weather, difficult terrain.
So it is, all of the clean up, rust remove, alignment process , paint to protect... individual to system components come together at the operator hands.
And here, where those hands are crafting systems...seem likely to prudent and long term service. M.
Impressive work with the brake pads those things have no leeway for mistakes and you did them in your garage 👍
This project is very challenging, mainly because you need a better equipped workshop which unfortunately you don't have, on the other hand you have a lot of ability to work things out. In my humble opinion since you intend to use this machine in your own property you must at all costs try and limit the scope of repairs. After all this machine is not going to work thousands of hours and caterpillars are very robust. Be ruthless in your assessment of cost versus benefit analysis. You're not bringing this machine to showroom condition but to a reasonable working condition. You've already done a hell of a lot to improve this machine and when it is finished it will look much better than when you hauled it out of the bush. I hope you find this suggestion useful. Cheers from Oz.
A really effective & cheap rust remover is white vinegar. What it will do is amazing.
Matt I just love the way your doing this I know For most of us we can all buy very use worn out retro cat dozer for only few thousands dollars. But the thing the owners know there worn out most of the parts on them are very rusted and worn down And in a very short time they will all brake down. But by doing this in this way your not just refurbishing an old cat dozer But restoring it to it original specification in this way your making sure it will serve you with out frustrating brake downs for many years to come. keep up the good work.
Great stuff! 10/10 for plugging on. Projects can just turn into a can of worms sometimes!!
Good video. I love it when the dog comes up and wants to play ball in the danger zone.
Yeah, Trash both plates.With all the effort you're putting in. Diff cover came out good. If that's the color for the tractor, you'll never get lost in the woods with that yellow. Possible CCW on the nut for the 2nd gear shaft? A couple of stumbles, but no big trip ups. The struggle continues. KUTGW!
Keep plugging away. Your'e doing a great job. Love the bright yellow paint. They will spot that baby a mile away.
Watched every minute of it! Seems as if your jumbled moments are still quite entertaining(especially on a grey and rainy PNW day). Thanks for the content!
Good evening Matt, I like it will you don't give up, thank you for taking the time to video from Steve Gullison st.Stephen N.B Canada
I think you need to get a sandblasting cabinet...mine was a lifesaver when I was restoring motorcycles. Even a Harbor Freight will do a great job for parts the size you're doing. Plus, it doesn't spread dust and dirt in your shop like the wire wheel on a drill does!
Thank you so much Mr. Mat for your excelent video and work!!... I saw all your´s video from Santiago de Chile... Best regards and God blest you and all people of EEUU!!
Once this is done you will have the best D4 around!
Ok Mat, this is a bit late but something for you to consider for the future.
Hydraulic jacks are normally used to raise objects off the ground. There are times, however, where using a jack horizontally is necessary. Projects like yours can benefit from using a jack to spread or push the parts. Bottle jacks are the only jack that operates in this way. Using a hydraulic jack in a horizontal position requires that the pump be lower than the piston. This prevents the hydraulic fluid from leaking into the piston reservoir and causing a loss of pressure.
Step 1: Twist the release valve counterclockwise using the notch on the end of the jack handle to lower the piston completely. Turn the valve clockwise once the piston is down.
Step 2: Place the jack on its side with the pump below the reservoir. The reservoir is the cylinder that contains the jack piston and the pump is where you insert the handle.
Step 3: Hold the jack in a straight horizontal position with one hand and use the handle to operate the pump. Pump the handle side to side until the base of the jack and the face of the piston are against the object you are trying to press/pull.
I hope this is of some help to you.
Play safe from Elliot Lake Ontario, Canada.
I've been watching your restoration progress and am enjoying the videos. Squatch253 may be able to answer some of your more technical questions and other unknowns. I watch his channel as well and he seems to be extremely knowledgeable these older Cats
injuries give you character, always like to see em when they happen, a good story, cheers
You're moving right along.
You’ve got the best picture quality on TH-cam: must be a great camera. Always interested in what you send out; it doesn’t matter if it’s a jumble, it’s like just catching up in various areas of the rebuild. I’ve really never held a wrench in my 67 years, but I love fixing things vicariously through guys like you, and Watch Wes Work, and Eric’s South Main Auto. It gives me confidence when I like change my oil or run wires for a dash cam 🤣🤣🤣
Squatch253 has really good videos on doing steering clutches on a D2 . I imagine there the same just smaller then your set up
Get a couple of tubes of Permatex #2. Non-hardening and will fill up holes and fasten stuff together.
Necessity is the mother of invention. 👍
That metal filler putty is activated by your body heat.
That's why they instruct you to use your fingers to mix it.
It's definitely interesting watching you rebuilding this Cat.
I know its just a small detail, but that paint looks good. Loved all the cast iron part carnage. Really enjoying the adventure thus far.
Consider removing tool rest's from your wire wheel ! There for grinding wheels on a pedestal grinder, wire wheel will flex allowing fingers to fit in, to the bone so fast!
On those inspection plates use under coating rubber on the plate and no gasket done this on few machines keeps water out and makes removale easier. Grainger has Sealing Gasket Sheet,comes in many thicknesses.
Mate your hard work. I CANT WATCH THIS ANY MORE AS TRADESMAN.
great work ... its a bit of a slow point at the moment but dont loose heart
you will enjoy this tractor for long time when its finished
Matt I love your video’s believe it or not it’s a type of therapy for myself. You are quite the young man and I totally respect you and your, can do, mechanical ability. Thank you and I look so forward to all your next videos. Can’t wait for the dozer to move its first task under your control.
You're going to be a certified cat mechanic before long. Good job. Like a fellow who learns as he goes. I'd borrow it from you when finished, but freight would kill me to south arkansas. Lol
Keep up the good work. Love watching from my comfortable chair. No mess, no sore fingers and even my wife is not on me! Your project will turn out better than you think.
My hats off to ya. Most people would never do this. Your very sharp and a hard worker, I really enjoy your vids. Keep em comin.
Lots done! Glad you found a way to fix the clutches.
You have to pay to watch it
Need cork filler for a seal? Try cork modle train road bed. You can get different thicknesses, can be easily cut & trimmed. Might work for this application.
Matt, I enjoy your restoration videos and your dedication you should be proud of what your doing, good luck.
Yes! You used the SteelStik!!
Very enjoyable watching. Does seem like the water is getting deeper.
The cover plates are flat steel, easy to remake. Use stainless steel.
Water will appear inside the closed space due to condensation, can't stop it unless you make it gas tight and fill the gearbox with dry gas. Alternatively use a dessiccant, or have a small electric heater in the oil to get the whole thing above the dew point, and run it periodically. Air WILL leak and it will have moisture and it will condense.
The cover plate gaskets will seal out liquid water, no need to change the gasket surface.
You could also add a breather with a dessiccant.
The gearbox will get warm during use, air will expand and push out thru porosity, then when it cools down it will contract and suck in moist air, which at some point will condense. Water in oil not so good. Hygrophobic oil would be expensive.
Good diligent work, and of course you now have an intimate knowledge of how your machine ticks. Colour is fantastic, love it. After rebuilding and making the insides like new, there's nothing like gleaming paint to re-inforce that on the outside. Re the pitting on the covers, hopefully the epoxy putty seals, but perhaps heating the metal with a torch and letting solder flow into it then filing smooth would've been more solid.
Great video and an even greater project! Thanks for taking us along!
Enjoying the project! Good luck from the UK.
You should grab some track cleats and the part of the tack that contact the sprockets. In case you brake one.
Stay Safe......
Stay with it......
Entertaining and Educational....
Thanks for the videos.
About your new battle wound: my daddy always says, "if you ain't doing nothing-nothing ain't gonna happen"
And memember...
wounds heal n chic dig scars
Matt you're doing awesome.
Good video. Even at break even on cost, what you have after the rebuild is a solid machine that you know top to bottom. Divided by the years of expected service.
good job matt
Great vid Matt. not a mess at all. The post issue is the same everywhere, where I am, if there is any hint of covid at the postal distribution centre, they completely shut it down until whatever has been cleared. Its made everything grind to a stand still. Its extremely annoying and another issue business have to deal with.
I highly recommend using 4” high density foam paint rollers. Applies a nice even coat that will dry properly. Especially on surfaces that you will see, you won’t get the brush stroke lines or runs from the brush applying too much. And if you sand with 150 or 220 grit in between coats you can achieve a really nice finish. And wait a solid 24 hours in between coats. Let it dry for up to a month before hitting the machine with branches and what not and finally wash it with cold water and soap, seems to harden it further
Noticed that you are using the press Apron from a 12 or 20 ton hydraulic press while working on the steering clutches. Just like to point out that if you have access to a 5/8" to 1" piece of steel you can drill a few 5/8" holes for the all-thread to fit through and then bolt the assembly to the press Apron. Of course you would also need to drill a hole for the press pin to fit through. May also require a short piece of pipe to use as a coupling around the base of your presses pressure point and either a large grade 8 bolt or piece of round stock to couple to the press shaft.
Also a piece of brass round stock and a hammer to help shock the shaft while it has a little pressure on it does wonders in breaking things loose.
Love the color. After all your hard work, it should stand out. An added benefit is that you won't get hit by any low flying planes.
Cat makes a gasket for the C7 engine rocker cover. it's about 1/2" X 1/4" thick that may solve your gasketing issue in some of those seal areas and comes in pretty long length (like 3-4 ft long) so you can cut it to suite.
5:46
Dog: "Play with me!"
Mechanic: "Not at this exact moment."
We use Teflon Tape - It has an adhesive back and comes in all thicknesses and widths - excellent sealing for oils ect. - it compacts well and you can remove cover plates and refit without destroying your seal - we use it also on steam related surfaces so has high temperature resistance
Squatch253 channel has a video series that shows a lot of the same processes. May want to review the videos there for some pointers. His is smaller but many of the parts are quite similar just smaller.
Yeah, plus Squatch has done them a bunch of times and knows what he's doing.
Dittos on that suggestion. He put together quite an elaborate process to disassemble and reassemble the steering clutches. Apparently there's several tons of pressure (15,000?) to deal with and doing it wrong could get dangerous. Stay safe.
Great vide! Look forward to the next
Great stuff! 10/10 for plugging on.
That Porta power is gonna be worth its weight in gold
Use the gray RTV gasket maker that they are using on Duramax and Power Stroke oil pans instead of pan gaskets. It works good, and all you have to do is install the cover a little loose and let the RTV set over night, then torque the cover the next day to get the compressed gasket you’re looking for.
You can make a socket for the round nut.
Get a piece of heavy tube that fits over the round part. Weld in pieces of key stock that locate in the grooves.
Truck Wheel Bearing Locknut Sockets 6 Point, cut out/ grind out need slots for that Large Nut
This video deserves a Janky award! 🥇🤠
Have you ever watched Squatch 253 rebuilding his D2?
You’re still doing good my friend!
What a color. Should be able to see that thing from outer space.
ingenious solution for the puller - too bad it doesn't work. special transmission nut - hammer and punch. 4600 smackers - cheap at three times the price and look at how much fun you're having. keep up the good work - don't fix stuff that don't need fixin.
You'll be ahead, it should be a sound serviceable machine, get the black rtv and put a thin even coat on with your finger, use the wool or whatever cat is using or replacing it with when possible
I like the yellow color.
Why are you trying to take the hub / clutch pack off the shaft? are you going to replace the differential bearings? Just the clutch parts can be removed by removing the springs.
Shiny yellow!! I'll see if I can send you a photo of that gasket tomorrow. (UK time) it comes in rolls and you cut it to length. I have tons of the stuff for doing pump seals.
Good job matt
Highwayman yellow...har de har...
Omg that was hilarious when you kept breaking the stuff trying to separate that shaft. I laughed so hard
There are in pretty tight, Squash253 needed ~20 ton of pressure at some point.
Matt..... Try OAKUM for a gasket on the yellow piece you painted by hand
The diff cover. You could use neoprene fuel hose to fill the gap. And some RTV
Just in time. Noice
Your determined my friend. Lol You'll get it with a bit more patience.
Nice Job Matt. Keep up the good work.
Belzona works well for filling those pit marks.
you're a beast! really enjoying your videos!
Thanks for sharing Matt!
Keep at it, that is a good project. I like.
Just so you know, you don’t have to turn your jack or ram upside down. The are made to push with base down. Works fine. 🙂
maybe some graphite square rope, or just regular rope but the graphite helps a lot with fricion but are hard to glue on if not using grease to hold it in place, love your videos and good luck from sweden ;)
I maxed out my 8 ton bottle jack by using an extra long handle 🤣 nothing exploded, and the bottle jack seals let go inside and lost all pressure. I was using it to bend open the channel that an excavator track idler/tensioner rides in as it had been squished
You’re doing a good job 👍🏽. I find it very interesting 🤔
For your puller I would recommend going to your local steel supply store and get a peice of 1018 cold rolled 4x4 bar stock and have the put in a couple 5/8" oblong holes and you'll be set there...as for the nut on the counter shaft..it looks very similar to the spindle nut on the late 80's early 90's 4x4 ford ranger/bronco II equipped with automatic locking hubs...it's been a while can't remember if they're hex or oct but it's worth looking into...note the automatic hubs use a different style spindle nut than the manual lock outs so specify automatic when looking for the socket...back to the steering clutches...I wouldn't even pull them off the shaft unless absolutely necessary...I would just rebuild them as is if possible