Fill the void between the inner and outer bearing inside the hub before you fit it to the axle if you don’t have a grease nipple on the outside of the axle or if you don’t have a bearing buddy. And when hand packing the bearings you want to squeeze the grease through until it comes through the top. Smacking it won’t work as well.
Using the correct sized socket and getting the details on the torque spec is important. Along with the back off info. Use manufacturing specifications.
Awesome video, thanks for putting the time in to shoot it, I needed this! I have a quick question - how do you get that cap off the bearings? I saw how you hammered it in, and it looks like it might be a challenge to get it off.
You bet! Appreciate your comment. If you use a rubber mallet and alternate hammering on top and bottom, you should notice it start to work it’s way off. Once you get a little gap you can insert screw driver if need be. I usually just use the rubber mallet until it pops off.
This was by mistake. Mess up on my part and yes, the better solution is marine grease over general grease. Both work, marine grease just works longer. Thanks Larry
Depends on your spindle. You either have a tapered spindle or strait spindle. Once you know that and your bolt pattern, everything else is universal sizing for the most part. Best thing to do is take your bearing to the store. Or take a picture on the number on the bearing.
Basically he is doing it correctly but when he is packing the bearing he should have done so with more control and pack it in the one side until it pushed out the other side. But hey anything you do will be better than doing nothing
Pretty positive it is this one. I will do some digging and confirm though www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Hub-Galvanized-5-Bolt-fits-3500-lb-axles_p_240.html
Would be a good vid if only you showed how to replace the new "Races" or outer bearing shell, because you should always replace the whole bearing assembly. In your vid you use the old ones from the looks of it.
Sorry about that, you are right. I didn’t replace them because the hub/races/bearings were brand new so didn’t want to remove just to put back in place. I agree I shouldn’t have skipped this step because you never would when replacing bad bearings.
A strip of Emory cloth will remove minor nicks. The grease nipples are also known as Zerk fittings. Don’t crank down so hard on your set up tension, and rotate the hub as you do it, or as others have stated you risk damaging a bearing.
I don't know where to begin with this.... First off anyone reading the comments please don't do it like this. First off get something soft to kneel on that hurt my knees watching, second go to ANY! auto parts store please! and buy a hand packer they are like $8, they make life easy and insures you pack the bearings correctly. Third that is NOT how you set new cone style wheel/hub bearings I was always taught to tighten castle nut while periodically spinning to seat bearings until snug. Then check for any end play with wheel installed, then tighten to closest notch for cotter pin. With "NEW" bearings its better to have slightly on the tight side then the loose side due to bearings being seated on races and wearing in. If you decide to start off on the loose side of set up run for about 40-50 miles then recheck for end play and snug if needed. Either way, when all said and done hub should spin freely and have no end play. With boat trailers you should always run some kind of marine grease and accept the fact that you need to check every 6 months at minimum depending on use. PRO TIP; pack backside of seals "with small spring" with grease to avoid popping spring off when installing with a hammer.
That wasn’t how I was taught to pack them. Should keep packing till it comes out the other end of them. I pack them full. You barely packed any into them but whatever
No your not going to have to replace bearings. I have a trailer with 4 inch a frame 16 on central top and bottom V nose. I travel with a full dressed Harley and gear in a 6x12 over 7k miles a year. I use a breeze gun on my bearings twice a gear and have not changed bearings yet and the trailer is now 7 years old. I have dexter grease hubs and I use Lucas marine greese( the blue kind). If you regularly greese bearings and change oils regularly in anything you will not burn anything out. You need Vortex hubs with the greese zerc in the rear of hub.
@@walomeister5632 very correct actually. This will work but red is by far the best and will last the longest. Specially if you are dealing with salt or brackish water
Great refresher video. This isn't something I do often & I tend to forget exactly how.
Glad to help!
@@PrestigeWorldwideFishing the only thing I'd do different is use marine grade grease
@bonekollektor1659 yes, you are correct. That was my mistake.
Fill the void between the inner and outer bearing inside the hub before you fit it to the axle if you don’t have a grease nipple on the outside of the axle or if you don’t have a bearing buddy.
And when hand packing the bearings you want to squeeze the grease through until it comes through the top.
Smacking it won’t work as well.
This comment needs to be pinned to the top!!!!
Smack Smack Smack not packing ha. Easy smush smush smush till fill
isnt the grease nipple right in the center of the spindle on this trailer or is that something else?
Great video, easy to follow with the close ups. Thank you
Appreciate the feedback 👍
Using the correct sized socket and getting the details on the torque spec is important. Along with the back off info.
Use manufacturing specifications.
Pump grease through the spindle until it comes out past the outer bearing....thats how you utilize those ez lube spindles
Thanks for the video brother, outstanding step by step info. Just had a major blow out/ hub destroyed on dirt rd..
Glad to help. Man I hope it didn’t damage the boat or trailer. Good luck with the repair
This video helped a ton!!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Happy to hear it!
Awesome video, thanks for putting the time in to shoot it, I needed this! I have a quick question - how do you get that cap off the bearings? I saw how you hammered it in, and it looks like it might be a challenge to get it off.
You bet! Appreciate your comment. If you use a rubber mallet and alternate hammering on top and bottom, you should notice it start to work it’s way off. Once you get a little gap you can insert screw driver if need be. I usually just use the rubber mallet until it pops off.
@@PrestigeWorldwideFishing thank_you👍
Use marine grade grease
Why wouldn’t you use Marine grease since it goes in water versus using general grease?
This was by mistake. Mess up on my part and yes, the better solution is marine grease over general grease. Both work, marine grease just works longer. Thanks Larry
Good video. Thank you. By the way, the “fitting thing” is called a grease nipple.
Ha! Thanks.
Grease zerk
Thanks bro
Thx for sharing great job and demo very helpful
Appreciate it. Glad to help
thanks man. everyday method. works👍🏻
The best video
Thanks
Glad it helped! Appreciate the kindness
What tells the size of the bearing? Do some need to be pressed out?
Depends on your spindle. You either have a tapered spindle or strait spindle. Once you know that and your bolt pattern, everything else is universal sizing for the most part.
Best thing to do is take your bearing to the store. Or take a picture on the number on the bearing.
@Prestige Worldwide Fishing Thank you... common sense, I guess! Your vids on mechanicing, fixing, and redoing things ARE GREAT! Keep it up! 💯
Thanks! Really appreciate the feedback!
Thanks. You saved me
Glad to help
My bearings fell apart at the boat ramp yesterday
Damn that sucks. Although better than on the highway
@@PrestigeWorldwideFishing yup. The highway would have been bad. I am putting all new hubs and bearings in
Basically he is doing it correctly but when he is packing the bearing he should have done so with more control and pack it in the one side until it pushed out the other side. But hey anything you do will be better than doing nothing
i have the same boat and trailer is it the 1750lbs hubs
I have the 3500 lb axle and hubs. Got them all from sturdy built trailer parts online
@@PrestigeWorldwideFishing What size was the hub?
Pretty positive it is this one. I will do some digging and confirm though
www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Hub-Galvanized-5-Bolt-fits-3500-lb-axles_p_240.html
When you tightened the nut for the first time you tightened it too much. That may cause damage.
Would be a good vid if only you showed how to replace the new "Races" or outer bearing shell, because you should always replace the whole bearing assembly. In your vid you use the old ones from the looks of it.
Sorry about that, you are right. I didn’t replace them because the hub/races/bearings were brand new so didn’t want to remove just to put back in place. I agree I shouldn’t have skipped this step because you never would when replacing bad bearings.
Any tips on removing lil nics from spindle?
Emery cloth will help. Ultimately you might need to replace spindle. Those nicks will wear down those bearings quickly if you can’t get them smooth.
A strip of Emory cloth will remove minor nicks. The grease nipples are also known as Zerk fittings. Don’t crank down so hard on your set up tension, and rotate the hub as you do it, or as others have stated you risk damaging a bearing.
I don't know where to begin with this.... First off anyone reading the comments please don't do it like this. First off get something soft to kneel on that hurt my knees watching, second go to ANY! auto parts store please! and buy a hand packer they are like $8, they make life easy and insures you pack the bearings correctly. Third that is NOT how you set new cone style wheel/hub bearings I was always taught to tighten castle nut while periodically spinning to seat bearings until snug. Then check for any end play with wheel installed, then tighten to closest notch for cotter pin. With "NEW" bearings its better to have slightly on the tight side then the loose side due to bearings being seated on races and wearing in. If you decide to start off on the loose side of set up run for about 40-50 miles then recheck for end play and snug if needed. Either way, when all said and done hub should spin freely and have no end play. With boat trailers you should always run some kind of marine grease and accept the fact that you need to check every 6 months at minimum depending on use.
PRO TIP; pack backside of seals "with small spring" with grease to avoid popping spring off when installing with a hammer.
All purpose grease is not recommended marine grade is the correct one.
That’s what I hear. I picked me up some. Thanks
That is the worst wheel bearing job I’ve seen. Those bearing aren’t packed
Finally someone who knows what they are doing, great video!
Clearly u no nothing
@@redline9579 why would someone be watching a to-do video if they already know what they are doing?
@@michaelauffant2300 Two word's,,, DOUBLE CHECK ✔️✔️... AND FREE COUNTRY 😂😂😂😂😂
Lmao
That wasn’t how I was taught to pack them.
Should keep packing till it comes out the other end of them.
I pack them full.
You barely packed any into them but whatever
No your not going to have to replace bearings. I have a trailer with 4 inch a frame 16 on central top and bottom V nose. I travel with a full dressed Harley and gear in a 6x12 over 7k miles a year. I use a breeze gun on my bearings twice a gear and have not changed bearings yet and the trailer is now 7 years old. I have dexter grease hubs and I use Lucas marine greese( the blue kind). If you regularly greese bearings and change oils regularly in anything you will not burn anything out. You need Vortex hubs with the greese zerc in the rear of hub.
Those grease nipples as people are calling them here are called "Zerk fittings" in case anyone needed to know...
Good to know! Thank you
Nobody needed to know. Grease nipple is good enough
Ring? Lol. You mean castle nut
Chill out
What’s so funny Mr. Perfect?
Should be using red grease for anything that has friction..... Just saying
Incorrect
@@walomeister5632 very correct actually. This will work but red is by far the best and will last the longest. Specially if you are dealing with salt or brackish water
the color of grease is not what matter, I will focus more if the grease is lithium complex, calcium, aluminum, moly you name it.
So basically you have no clue but made a video anyway. Lol
Hope your day gets better!
@PrestigeWorldwideFishing it's going great. Thanks though. Lol
I’ll be looking for your video soon. Can’t wait see an experts video.
😂
@@2wheels-WR it would be a lot better than this.
"Little ring"?! Lol. It's called a castle nut... "Grease knob, grease pin"?? Hahahahaha....
Bro u didn't show taking races out or putting in fail fail fail
The hub was new with the races in it already. He said that in the video
unfortunately thats not how u grease bearings , you need to see new grease push out all the old grease . dont do a diy if u dont know what your doing
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