Willys Jeep Disk Brake Conversion!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Willys Jeep disk brake conversion. In this video I cover both the conversion I did on my Willys CJ3B as well as other dish brake options. This is a great upgrade and makes your Jeep way safer and greatly increases your stopping power. This conversion works for Dana 25 Dana 27 and Dana 44 closed knuckle axles.
Front Brake Lines:
1984-1985 Honda Accord Front Right Dorman 77859TK Front Left 073-1201
1989-1995 Geo Tracker
Brake Pads: Centric 10304180
Rotors: Centric 12148004
Calipers: Raybestos
FRC1032 Left
RC 1031 Right
Caliper Brackets: brennans-garag...
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Very informative,just what a newbie such as myself needs
Glad to hear it!
Great video I was just gifted a 47 Willys from my buddy family. The breaks went out week two. Wanted to put disks on the front. They want $850 for a kit. Thank you for this video. It made the decision for me to convert. Going to do all new part’s from rock auto. Thank you again.
Awesome project! Glad to hear it, there’s several how to videos for these old jeeps over on my channel. Thank you for watching!
Hey, um..well I guess I don't know your name, but...I got my new disc brake brackets today from Brennan and, wow! They are as nice as you said!! I can't wait to start my own conversion. By the way, when I ordered them I gave you a plug and told him I heard about them from you and the awesome fabrication work you do. Maybe he'll send you a hat or something. 🤔
Anyway, thanks again for the tip and for sharing your projects with us. I have watched all your kids and stole some of your ideas! 🙄
Keep up the good work, bud!
Haha my names Jacob, glad to hear it! I appreciate you mentioning my video! Thank you for watching!
I’m glad I found this video. I’ll be using your same set up for my 63’ gladiator. 👍💪
Shoot yeah, that’ll be nice! I’ve got a new video about to come out on this 😉
@@SevenBarSalvage Sweet! 👍💪👍
getting my hands on another willys pickup is a whole different trip compared to the last one i bought back in 1980, without the internet it was a lot of trial and error. and precious little shared information. so thanks for posting up your budget upgrades, looking forward to implementing a few of them
Glad I could help! Thank you!
Thank you so much, this is the next thing I need to do.
Thank you for watching!
This video needs more likes! Great information! Thank you
Thank you for watching!
Hoping to start on my 69 cj6 next year, glad I found your channel
Awesome!
Ordered the brakes yesterday, going 4 wheel. Thanks for the vid.
Awesome!
Good video Thanks. I did this conversion on the front of a 1973 cj5 I used the 1-1/2 inches spacers the Dorman 610-368 studs work great full lug nut thread contact, studs length are about 3/16 from outer surface of spacer May have too slightly drill rotor stud holes. Have a Great day.
Glad to hear it! Thank you!
NICE JOB JOHN
Excellent instructional
Thank you!
Wow. Those deep spacers are going to be hard on those wheel bearings.
That’s something I’m keeping an eye on. No issues yet but worse case I find some different wheels and ditch the spacers. Thanks!
I rarely leave comments, but this video and the information regarding sourcing the parts is beyond excellent. I just bought a '64 CJ3B and am looking to do this. You have taken most of the burden of the task out of the equation. Thanks for all your work on this!
I’m glad I could help! I appreciate you watching good luck with your project! You might find a few other helpful how to’s over on my channel!
@@SevenBarSalvage Thanks! I ordered the parts listed in your description. In this case, if I kept the drum brakes on the rear, it there anything else I would need to do? A friend mentioned the proportioning valve and I saw someone's comment below about it. Is this needed right away or would the front brake disc conversion be enough for now?
@@pnkfloydlunatic You don’t have to use a proportioning valve and you’ll be fine. A lot of people run them with the stock master cylinder with no issue too!
Hey! I am tackling this project this weekend. I have the brakes on but am a little confused on the brake lines. I ordered the brake lines. They are significantly different. Do you happen to have a video or picture of the right side brake line installation? Also, to attach the brake lines, do I need a banjo bolt or something else? If so, what size? I am having trouble finding the right size for the Raybestos calipers.
@@pnkfloydlunatic Sorry I’m just seeing this. It’s a M10x1 banjo bolt I bought mine on eBay. I’ve got a new disk brake video coming out tomorrow. Hope this helps!
you need to bend the last washer that goes on outward, this stops the outside nut from backing off.
washer on, then torque the first nut to 50lbft, spin the hub when you do this to make sure everything is seating, then loosen 1/6 of a turn. you can align the hub bolt holes to the points of the spindle nut. move one point counter clockwise to the next hub hole that is 1/6 of a turn. pre load is now set. next washer goes on, ideally the tang goes in first, then last nut this one is torqued to 50lbft and left that way. bend the washer behind this nut outward, choose a flat on the nut to bend outward.
cheers. good video :)
You are correct! I skipped mentioning those steps but I will pin this to the top for furniture viewers! Thank you for watching!
@@SevenBarSalvage no problem! Love the channel. The rear fuel tank has been on my mind.
I’ll have more of my Jeep videos out just finished herms full float rear axle and disc.
I’ll have to check it out I’ve been looking at those full float kits!
I put some on my CJ5 nearly identical to your . The caliper bracket were thicker and fully machined to fit without drilling. What I liked most was the rotors fit to the front side of the hubs. Didn’t gave to buy hubs that were flat on backside. Went on a dana 27 on a 66’ Scout.
That’s pretty cool I’d like to see that!
Great presentation! I’ll save this video for later in case I decide to convert my 2a project.
Thank you!
Excellent content!!!!
Thank you!
Great Video and Great Comparison! I watched your studded knuckle conversion vid before seeing this one-- I opted to purchase a used D30 from a 79 CJ (already had 11" rotors, calipers, lines, etc. and open knuckle with ball joints), which is only about 2" wider than the stock D27 in my 67 CJ5 . If I had seen this done with these parts and this budget first I probably would have kept my stock 27 and converted it!
Thanks for the informative presentation and taking the time to publish these videos - keep up the good work.
Thank you for the positive feedback! Dana 30 is another great upgrade for an old Willys Jeep! Stock with disks or a newer axle you can’t go wrong either way!
Nearly a perfect youtube video! Well done!!
Thank you I appreciate it!
I like it a lot and will do this on my CJ3B project. Looks more original than a lot of other choices. Be nice if the back brakes are as easy.
I’ve not tackled the back ones. I’m gonna see how I like disk front and drum rears! Thanks!
Your videos are great, well apreciated, best from Munich.
Thank you I appreciate it!
Great Videos. Keep them coming!!
Thank you!
Excellent detailed instructional, thanks.
Thank you!
thank you ...................................................... love that jeep
Thank you for watching!
Great Video. Thanks for the mention.
I appreciate it! Thanks for making cool stuff!
Your video on the front disc brake conversion was fantastic. Do you have a video on the rear wheel conversion to disc brake. I have a 1951 CJ3A and I would like to convert this to four-wheel disc.
Thank you I appreciate it! I put the stock drums back on the rear. I’ve had a lot of interest in a rear conversion video though so I may do that in the future.
Q buena convercion,amigo muy bien
Thank you!
Thanks for doing this. I’ve done the Chevy conversion. Didn’t like the grinding.
Thank you for watching!
Ordered all parts today from O'Reillys and the guy from Brennons suggested to use 2wd s-10 front hoses so I ordered both. Amazon was much better on price as I am building my own brake lines as ordering a kit. ($$$$$) Where do you get a 2'1/8 socket for the nuts? Guy at Brennon very helpful. Total at O'Reillys was $261 for everything.
Awesome, Amazon has the deals sometimes. Check out QTM parts on eBay or Kaiser Willy’s they both sell them pretty cheap
Thanks little buddy
Anytime!
@@SevenBarSalvage do you recommend a dual reservoir upgrade as well?
@@shall2117 It makes things safer but you don’t have to. I’ve got a video coming out tomorrow testing a stock master cylinder on disk brakes!
@@SevenBarSalvage Haha awesome! I just picked up a 1948 CJ2A; in really good shape overall and from what I can tell it's bone stock. Had it driving around a little bit last weekend and I could barely stop. This brought me to your video lol but I'm going to dig more into it this weekend and check the adjustment on the drums
@@shall2117 That’s great! Nothing wrong with drums they used them for years! Good luck!
Fantastic video, I am going to use the tracker way, Can I add to the rears to make 4 wheel disc by buying 2 kits? Thanks for all the great jeep content!
I believe it’s the same front and rear, but I’ve never done it so I can’t confirm… I guess I need to make a video doing the rears 😉 Thank you!
@@SevenBarSalvage for a 4 wheel disc brake, would i still be able to use the same master cylinder you listed below? Thanks
@@johnbrletic7858 Yes that one would still be fine, but you will need the proportioning valve for disk/disk. Thanks!
Awesome video. Any plans to show how you did the proportioning valve setup to help with pressure differences between the front disks and rear drums?
Thank you! I have a video with the complete plumbing set up and I also have a video on the dual reservoir master cylinder install. If you have any questions let me know!
Just ordered my brackets for my 3B from Brennen's Garage. Question: Are the 1-1/2" spacers the smallest that will work? Could I get by with 1" spacers? I'm running Pro Comp 69 Series Alloy Wheels with 31x10.50s. I"m probably not going to upgrade the rear brakes to disc and just run the drums on the rear. I didn't want the front wheels to stick out too much over the rear wheels. Another great video. Thanks, RT GO VOLS!!!
With newer wheels you might not need any spacers. Running bigger tires though you might want 1” to keep the tires from turning into the springs. Shoot yeah!!
Thanks for the very informative video. I’m a rookie mechanic so I need all the help I can get. One question I had is the cost or parts union Geo Tracker parts. I think you said $250. Is that for each wheel? Sorry for my ignorance. BTW, my jeep is a 1970 Kaiser CJ5. Thanks again for the great videos!
The best I remember I was pricing to do one axle, so 2 wheels. Thank you for watching hope this helps!
Am going to start this on my 47 CJ2A but my question is do I change over to a different master or can I use a new OEM master Cylinder? You do great videos! Thanks
Yep no issue sticking with the stock master. Make sure to check out my newest video with the 4 wheel disk brake conversion! Thank you!
Do any of you know if this conversion will work on the Mitsubishi jeep ? I have a 1978 J54 with Dana 30 front end. It’s supposedly based on the old Willys CJ3.
I’m not sure to be honest… not many of them in the states!
Does the tracker disc brake conversion work on the dana44 rear axle? I have a1955 M-38A1 Jeep. I did the Chevy disc conversion on the front, and want to do it on my Dana 44 rear. But will the tracker conversation work on a Dana 44 that has been converted to full floater axle. I have Dana 44 front spindles bolted to the 6 hole bearing cups with Dana 44 front hubs, 30 spline dodge van dana60 axles that are 27 spline outters with 27 spline drive flanges. I was gonna do another Chevy conversion, but people are wanting to much for the backing plates/caliper mount. I have found that if you don’t have the exact right mount, it binds the Chevy caliper in the Jeep 1 1/8 rotors due to slight misalignment.
Have you had any issue with warpage with the rotors due to being solid?
Great and informative video.
Thanks
I think the tracker conversion will still work with your full float conversion as long as the spindle pattern didn’t change but I can’t be 100% sure!
💪 👍.
having to replace the old master c with a new one. having a dirty dog of a time bleeding. Do I need to remove the check valve in the new MC or just simply remove and replace? Other than bleeding, it's ready to roll. Great videos!!!
Best thing you can do is “bench bleed” the new mc. There’s a lot of videos demonstrating it then just instal it and bleed like normal. Should fix you right up. Thank you!
this is the best video ive seen about this project, but i have a couple questions. I've seen where on the chevy conversion you also have to grind the back of the caliper to clear the knuckle fill plug. is that the same for the geo tracker conversion? And so i need to replace my proportioning valve? Also did you upgrade you master cylinder to a dual setup?
No grinding or modifications with the Geo tracker parts. Unless your wheel studs are the old swaged style then you’ll have to replace them. You don’t have to use a proportioning valve or dual reservoir master cylinder with this upgrade. I did use both though I have a video on the dual reservoir master cylinder installation and a few videos on plumbing the new lines and adding a proportioning valve. Thank you for watching!
Great video on the Geo Tracker disc brake conversion. Do you know if these parts work on a Dana 44 rear?
Also I don’t have the Spicer front axles, mine have the threaded ends (Dana 25), do know if this conversion works with my style axles? Thanks
I know the brackets do I’m not sure about the calipers and rotors. It should work with any 25, 27, or 44 closed knuckle axle. Thank you for watching!
Thank you 🙏 great job. I have a question ; how can you avoid using the spacers? Is it possible with different wheels or something? Thank you sir your videos are amazing 😉
Thank you I appreciate it! Some older 16 inch wheels will work, or new modern style wheels usually clear without spacers or with maybe a 1/4” spacer. Hope this helps!
awesome video! a couple of questions: for the brake hose, did the stock fitting work the axle to the hose? Or did you have to cut and re-flare the line? do you have a proportioning valve in place on the dual master? if so, what did you use and how did you do the brake lights? thanks again!
I’ve got a newer video of this doing a 4 wheel conversion that might explain some things a little better. The stock lines won’t work without changing the fittings or I found a brass adapter that should solve the problem and let you retain factory lines. I will be using a proportioning valve (PV2 for a disk drum setup). There’s an inline pressure switch I’m using for the brakes same as what the factory switch would be. Hope this helps!
Great video! I'm trying to figure out if the Wilwood 1966 Bronco Dana 30 open knuckle Big Brake kit with a two piece Rotor will fit on my 1959 Ford F100 4x4 Dana 44 closed knuckle. It would be a dream to have my truck handle today's highway braking standards.
The Wildwood uses a similar bracket as your Tracker conversion plus an additional tangent bracket for the huge Calipers. Overall a clever system
Thank you! That’ll be sweet when you get it all together!
Great video. Just doing this myself. I am also running 1-1/4" wheel spaces. I have noticed that my wheel studs seem about 1/2" too short. Did you have this issue? did you use a different wheel stud? My studs are 7/8" threaded with a 0.615 knurl. I need the thread to be 1-3/8" long threaded. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Thank you! I did check out my new video on the 4 wheel disk brake conversion, I got some longer studs that work great in the rear and ok in the front. I’m honestly looking for something a little better. Thanks!
Absolutely fantastic walk through - thank you! Question - with your spacers do you need longer studs?
I would get longer ones. There is plenty of engagement but I think longer studs would be better. Dorman 610106 I think is the correct part number I think. Thank you for watching I appreciate it!
Did my 51 3a with GM rotors an it seems to be fine without grinding anything. Plenty of clearance. It’s been a pain so far to put master cylinder on. Almost done.
Good to know!
Got my Geo Tracker rotors today. Seems my lug studs interfere. The lugs were actually pressed into the brake drums, which I destroyed separating from spindle.
There’s a note on this on Brennan’s website. Earlier Jeeps had the studs pressed into the drums, also some had the studs actually swaged in and those have to be cut off. Let me know if I can help!
Yep. Guess that's mine. Having other issues. Is there a way to get in touch?
@@mikep9032 seven.bar.salvage@gmail.com
Parts update 08-08-24; Shopping at Rock Auto I couldn't find your Dorman hoses, but did find 1985 Honda Accord Hoses by Raybestos BH38281 (LF) and BH 38214 (RF). Could you look at these and confirm they will work? Thanks
Also found at Rock Auto Raybestos Calipers RC1031 and RC1032, both come with Pads.
Maybe this will help the next guy!
Thank you for sharing this!
front disks dragging bad. Did I need to remove the check valve from the stock master cylinder?
I managed to get it all at one place for 260 without core charges. With cores i could have done it for 180
That’s awesome!
Your outside pad is on the wrong side, the one with the tab is the inside pad
Yeah I need to go back and fixed that! Thanks!
Great video! I plan on doing the Geo conversion on my 1966 CJ5. Do the banjo bolts and crush washers come with the new Geo calipers?
I assume I need banjo bolts for the Geo calipers and not for 1985 Honda Accord brake hoses. Watching your knuckle kit video next.. Thanks!
I used Cardone GEO calipers from Rock Auto and they came with banjo bolts and washers. I can not speak for any other brands but
some do not mention anything about hardware being included or not. This is common brake hardware so you could buy the bolts and washers at any
auto parts store. The brake hoses I bought also came with washers.
Thank you! I believe my calipers also came with the hardware, hope this helps!
Good job. It looks easy! Where did you get those springs? I messaged you through Facebook.
1” over stock super lift springs… sadly discontinued…
Have been e-mailing about the check valve in the mc. Any help would be appreciated.
i have a willys cj2a and was wondering if this disk conversion would work on it. The original brakes really don't do a good job of stopping the car.
Yes it will pretty much be the same! I’ve got a newer video doing a 4 wheel disk brake conversion that’s got a little more detail! Thanks!
just about done. where did you get the wheel spacers you are using?
eBay or Amazon!
I’m a little late but catching up. Doing a frame off on 67 CJ5, V6. Did you fab the master cylinder bracket or purchase something? Also, my brake lines are original and in excellent shape with no corrosion. Think I can reuse the stock rear lines? I’m going disc/drum. I’m enjoying your videos because you’re down-to-earth and just provide excellent info. Even find myself humin your music, lol.
Sounds like a great project! The bracket actually came off a stock Buick CJ5. I have a video on the dual master cylinder conversion with part numbers! I usually overhaul brake lines but if you feel like they are good I would replace the rubber hoses and run it. Thank you for the positive feedback I really appreciate it!?
Waiting for McMaster Carr so I can upgrade the knuckles and Brenins disc brake bracket. Have a question. There isn’t a gasket between the steering knuckle and spindle. Adding the caliper bracket adds another sealing surface. Did you coat this with any type sealer? While I’m asking, what about the upper/lower king pin bearing caps?
The knuckle and spindle have a tight fit I don’t think you have to use a sealer but a little coat silicone wouldn’t hurt. The bracket bolts on top of the spindle so there is nothing to seal. The bearing retainers are similar to the spindle and knuckle I think the fit is tight enough not to worry but a thin coat of silicone shouldn’t hurt. Just make sure you don’t change your bearing preload. Hope this helps!
Great video! I'm in the process of rebuilding a CJ3B on my channel, I think you just sold me on the Geo Tracker upgrade! What are you running for a master cylinder now with the disk brake conversion?
Thank you! Raybestos mc36456, it was used in some AMC vehicles I think. Took a lot of forum digging to pin it down!
@@SevenBarSalvage Thanks!
The 3B I'm working on was disassembled 15 years ago so there's been a lot of head scratching and researching on how it's all supposed to go back together. Haha
Your videos are going to be a big help for me seeing how it all goes together!
Where did you find the wheel spacers and extra long wheel studs for CJ-5
I think eBay for spacers and Amazon for wheel studs!
Awesome thanks for video. What master cylinder are you using?
Thank you! Raybestos MC36456 worked perfect!
Great video , brother ,I did the conversion on my 75 cj5 , and it works perfectly man , I was wondering if the rear brakes conversion would be the same , I mean rear set up from a 90-95 tracker? Any advice please let me know, thanks, Raymond.👍👍
I think it is pretty similar. I wasn’t planning on doing rear disks on mine but there has been a lot of interest in it so I might end up making a video on it! Thanks!
Not a fan of grinding on the knuckles with the chevy conversion
If you use late cj steel wheels you don’t need wheel spacers
Good to know thank you!
I've been wanting to convert my '48 CJ2A for awhile now and I think I'd like to go the Geo Tracker route. I didn't see a part's list you mentioned but I did get the Brennan's Garage info. Any chance you can jot down the parts list to this comment? Tanks a lot Bud!
Should be updated now. Let me know if I missed anything! Thanks!
I appreciate your video. I currently have one wheel done on my 64 Scout but I am using 97 four door Tracker parts, hopefully, for better stopping power. The rotors are vented but not slotted. I believe the pistons are larger diameter too. Everything fits about like your video shows. Except, my inner and outer pads are swapped from what you show. At about 4:48 in your video your outer pad has a formed metal strip that I believe is the wear indicator, just in front of your left index finger. On my pad/caliper assembly this pad with the indicator has to be the inner pad. There is also a nub on this pad that also forces it to be the inner. My question is, are your pads on correct, different from mine or you just mocked this up for the video? Actually the most difficult and bloody part of my project has been getting the pads installed in the caliper assemblies!
Haha it’s funny you say that I had the same issue! I believe you are correct though the tab should be on the inside. I missed it thank you for catching that. And thank you for watching!
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Would like to do this conversion on a 1953 willys will these parts fit and are they the same front and rear?
Correct everything is the same besides the passenger and driver side designation!
Great video, starting my conversion now, What size socket is that for the wheel hub?
Thank you! I think it is 2” - 2 1/8”
All parts are available from India
Made by Mahindra to the old Generation jeep varients.....
Good to know!
Could not find that brake line on rockauuto
Sometimes they are bad about things going in and out of stock. An auto supply store should be able to reference the part number! Thanks!
Great video! What did you use for your dual master cylinder?
Thank you! Raybestos mc36456, I have a few videos on doing the swap and all the parts used should be linked in the description!
HI from Puerto Rico, i World like to Know how did you tie the slave assembly to the master cilinder, i appreciate your help thank you, GBY.
What are you referencing as the slave assembly?
For us the slave assembly is that part that goes in back of the master cylinder in the original MC .
@@luisotero7471 I have a couple other videos on the custom brake lines and how everything is plumbed and routed!
where did you get the axle nut socket and what size is it ?
QTM parts on eBay for the socket I think it’s a 2 1/16 socket, thanks!
Does the stock Master Cylinder work with the Geo brakes?
Yep, everything else can stay stock. Your front brakes will stop a lot better than the rears though some people use an inline proportioning valve, but most just run it as is!
I like nearly all I see, BUT...can you get vented rotors? I might also mention that I'm doing this on a Jeepster Commando (Dana 27). Is that little rotor and caliper going to provide decent stopping power for the considerably heavier Commando? Not sure if I have room to fit a brake booster on this sucker...
I think they do make drilled and slotted rotors. You could aways do 4 wheel disk brakes! Thanks for watching!
@@SevenBarSalvage Brennan's Garage has this on the website: "Note: You can also use the later vented 4-door rotor and caliper." 👍
Good eye!
Did you duplicate this on rear?
I did I have a newer video showing both front and rear thank you!
On the calipers you listed Raybestos 1032
Is that for both sides?
Good catch, I updated the info there is a left and right caliper with unique part numbers!
Will the stock wheels fit after this conversion?
I wish there was a direct answer… I’ve heard stock 16’s fit and some (kinda) stock 15’s will fit. The 5.5” stock 15’s I don’t think there’s anyway those will clear without wheel spacers. Hope this helps!
Wondering if geo disc brakes will fit on Willy's Jeep
Yes!
How far out does the wheel stick out with the disc and wheel spacer compared to the original drum setup? Would the Original Steel wheels still fit with this?
The stack up from the rotors and the bracket should be around 1/2 inch plus the wheel spacers I have would be 2 inches. I’ve been told stock 16’s clear the calipers without spacers but I’ve never got to test that. Thank you!
Great video! I have a 72 commando with stock Dana 30’s and 44’s. I’ve heard that Brennen’s set up works for the 30. Any feedback on this would be great.
I believe so but I have never installed them on a 30 so I can’t confirm. Maybe one day I’ll swap in a 30 and I can tell you for sure! Thanks!
Banyakan. Spaek
I want to do this on my scout. Do you need a power booster?
No need to change anything with the master, a lot of people have had good success keeping everything else stock!
Would all the parts be the same for rear conversion also?
I’m not sure to be honest! I’ve been thinking about doing rear disk brakes too…
Do the Scout next lol
I’ve got big plans in the works! Stay tuned!
@@SevenBarSalvage Please do.
Is there anyway to contact you by email to get some more information about this without posting all of it on here?
Seven.bar.salvage@gmail.com or hit me up over on Instagram!
@@SevenBarSalvage Thank you.
What wheel bolt pattern uses this Willys?? Thanks.
5X5.5
@@SevenBarSalvage thanks, I guess its the same as 5x139.7
En dónde puedo conseguir ese sistema de discos
brennans-garage.com
Hope this helps!
Hi, I'm thinking of doing this upgrade on my '42 Ford GPW, did you also add a brake booster?
You can keep everything else stock. A dual reservoir master cylinder is a nice upgrade though!
Thanks for the information on the GPW. Mine is a 44. I just got my 95 Sidekick roters and calipers from the junk yard. Can you give me any heads up tips on my swaged in studs, full floating rear end to convert, etc? I bought enough for front and rear. Hope to keep original master cylinder with no proportion valve or any other mods.
@@russjohnston9576 You’ll need to cut the studs out and press in new ones. Herm the overdrive guy sells full floater kits pretty reasonably. I know people that run stock master and brakes with this with now issue. You front might lock up quicker than the rear you can install a simple inline valve to fix that though. Hope this helps thank you for watching!
Will this work on a 52 m38a1 and do you use the original rims?
Yes axles should be the same. You can keep the stock wheels but I think you need at least 1” wheel spacers I’m using 1.5” thanks!
Could you tell me what size the spindle nut socket is
@@robertgentry9742 2 1/16”
Do you plan on doing the rear brakes too?
I’m gonna see how I like disks front / drums rear and if I feel like it needs disk all around I’ll swap some on!
it's a no brainer spend the extra $130 and do the full size jeep/chevy conversion and have far superior brakes with far better parts availability.
You can always spend a little more money and get something a little better. The Chevy conversion is also a good option. Thanks!
@@SevenBarSalvage this is Gary OConnor where did you find the wheel spacers and the extra longest wheel studs for the CJ five
@@GaryOconnor-j8h Wheel studs were Amazon and spacers were eBay! Part numbers and links should be in the description!
Will 96 geo tracker calipers work or does it have to be ‘89-‘95?
Hey. Never mind about the year question… I would like to know more specifics about a couple things: 1) 1.5” wheel spacers-what brand are they? 2) procedure for reinstalling and tightening the two locking hub nuts and washers. I think I followed what schnitzelhaus guy said, but wanted your take on it. Your videos are awesome!! I’m new to all this rebuild stuff. Just got a 65 CJ5, and it’s been a long time dream to have a project like this! Having someone like you explain and demonstrate so many aspects is so helpful! Thanks!! Tug
Rough country or spidertrax, I’ve heard to stay away from cheap ones but I think most of it comes down to making sure your wheels studs have enough thread engagement. Several people have asked about it, I can’t remember schnitzelhaus video but he is usually spot on! I need to post a video on it myself it’s not a hard process! Thank you for watching sounds like a great project!
Will this work for a 53 M38A1 ?
Should be the same Dana 25/27 front axle!
arnt the chevy calipers 6 lug
With the Chevy conversion you use later CJ rotors with Chevy calipers. It’s a great upgrade just a little more mix and match and not as cheap!
ok thanks
Did you have to modify the rotor to fit the willys bolt pattern?
No it’s the correct bolt pattern!
Ian, I just recently installed these GEO brakes on a Scout which turns out to be the same as Seven Bar describes for his Jeep. I did not have to drill the rotors
because I changed to different wheel studs. My original studs, and many original studs, have some knurling that protrudes through the wheel hub. This knurling
is what requires the rotors to be drilled out as described in the instructions from Brennan's Garage. I didn't want to buy an expensive drill bit for use on just one job
so I searched around for wheel studs that had a shorter knurling length. They are slightly longer that the original Scout studs but with the shorter knurling
that doesn't protrude through the hub. I also didn't need wheel spacers so I selected the wheel stud length to be just long enough for my wheels.
My studs are PCT 97007 from Rock Auto. If you need to use wheel spacers then these studs may be too short depending on the spacer type.
A person can spend hours researching wheel studs!
@@bkbeam I'm in the same boat about buying the drill bit. Which studs did you use? I can't find them on rockauto with that part number.
Do you have the website for the brackets?
brennans-garage.com
Those solid, unvented discs are highly prone to fade, even moreso than the drums. No way, right? Yes way. Brakes, of any type, turn the energy of the vehicle's momentum into heat. That's their whole job. What can make discs "better" than drums is they can more efficiently shed that heat because they can have a larger area to get hot and a larger area exposed to cooling airflow. The larger area to get hot is the swept area of the pads. The larger cooling area is entire exposed surface of the rotor. Vented rotors more than double this area compared to solid rotors because they have open areas on the backside of each braking surface joined by ribs. The ribs and both backsides are cooling surfaces. Solid discs omit that additional cooling area and sandwich both braking surfaces back-to-back. This doubles the heat that must be absorbed by the same area of steel. How can that be worse than a drum? A drum isn't always in contact with its shoes but a rotor is always in contact with its pads. A drum's wheelcylinder contains less brake fluid than a caliper so less fluid is exposed to heat. A drums friction material is affixed to long, thin frames, so there's less steel mass to conduct heat to the cylinder. A rotor's pad is affixed to a short, thick steel plate, so there's more mass to absorb and transfer heat to the caliper and thus the fluid.
I could keep going but trust me, solid discs are a losing proposition.
You make a lot of good points. I think later model trackers had the slotted and drilled rotors. In this application I don’t think it really matters. Most of the driving will just be on trails going 5-10 mph. And these Jeeps are the same if not lighter weight than the geo tracker these rotors are designed for. If it was a vehicle doing a lot of highway driving you’re right the heat would probably be an issue. The problem with drums is maintenance, proper adjustment, and on off-road vehicles they end up getting full of mud. I’ve only heard good things about this conversion. I appreciate your comment and I’ll have to see if they make a slotted rotor for this it would be a good upgrade!
@@SevenBarSalvage slotted isn't the same as vented
@@SevenBarSalvage obviously not, considering you think Willys = Willie's
I appreciate your comment about the rotors and I think others will too. Thank you for watching!
Now did you have to make the caliper holes bigger by chance?
No, I didn’t have to modify anything!