Great video. Will be doing my e90 water pump soon. I saw the e90 oil pan gasket you did first which lead me here and several of your other video. I wasn't sure I was going to do an oil pan, but I will be doing it now. Just pulled the intake manifold off my e39, getting all cooling hoses, vacuum hoses, rotten/hard hoses, coolant pipes, temp sensors, and ccv replaced. My car just needs a lot of work after the Covid lockdown of little use. I commented to my son last summer when I visited him that one of the best places to get help for his e46 on youtube is 50sKid. He was way ahead of me...said "his videos are great!" Thank you for giving me the confidence to work on my own cars. FYI - took a tour of the BMW factory is South Carolina, and now I completely understand why working on them can be so tight and awkward. thanks again.
I worked at the dealer when the E9X was new. We were replacing those pumps everyday. 1 hour job. From diag to test drive There are a few ways to tell if the pump is going bad. 1. Fault codes. 2. Cooling fan spinning at full speed for no reason. 3. You can do a bleeding procedure to test the speed of the pump. Also. Replace the hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat. The flange on the head is made out of plastic and it breaks all the time.
I’ve a question. I’ve got the dreaded orange onto red o reheat odd drive 1/5. When do bleeding test water shoots info expansion tank good rate. Confused why intermittent failure water pump when pumps garage static bleed test ?
Thanks for your input. I have a coolant leak somewhere but I am not sure where it is coming from. I took the undertray off and inspected from below. It seems to be dripping from whatever is above the waterpump or thermostat. I checked all other lines and they seem okay. The waterpump had coolant on it but I don't know if that's where it is leaking from. I have no codes or any symptoms of waterpump failure. Any idea what it could be. Like I said all hoses I could see, minus the U hose from thermostat to waterpump looked bad.
@@randellgribben9772 they dont "come loose" they tend to crack but only the 330 and m3 really, especially pre-facelift models. if you get them before it haappens you can reinforce and basically bullet proof it from happening.
@@randellgribben9772 It's not rust, the chassis can crack and in extreme cases the rear subframe can come away. Mines an auto and a convertible, so pretty safe, plus been inspected, showing no signs of cracking anywhere :)
My 2 E90s, 1 240'000km, other 250'000km, both original waterpump running strong. Dont have to fail. Cooling Fluid you can use Glysantin G48 (dont know about US but you can get it everywhere in Europe).
I commend you for actually coming back to the video to acknowledge that yours went too. Awesome kms out of your originals. Hope the replacement went smooth and you get many kms out of the new ones
There's a plastic fitting (aka Mickey Mouse fitting) on the other end of the hose you clamped to the thermostat that goes into the cylinder head that degrades over time and either leaks or fails catastrophically. Aftermarket aluminum replacements are available and it's a great time to replace at the same time as the water pump. Nice video.
+1. When I went to replace mine during radiator DIY I did the ‘Mickey Mouse’ flange and the original crumbled in my hands as I was removing definitely don’t overlook that little guy.
@Tj Semeniuk I never had a problem with the water pump i changed mine when i rebuilt the motor. But I don't understand why everyone says it's hard to change. Buy the upgraded pump then never worry about it again.
One super important part to change when doing this as well is the coolant flange on the block. ECS tuning sells an upgraded one for 25 bucks this part will leave you stranded if it breaks.
Over the years I can't count the times you helped me!! THANK YOU! Seriously Thank you! This job has been the craziest for me because I have the X drive version and it's even harder than it is (of course it is) to do the regular I version. That little clip was a huge help to see that I needed to remove it before I tried to keep on fitting my socket onto that bolt. So much more STUPID road blocks as I learned all about the stupidity pf this DIY LOL. But it is doable. It just SUCKS!!! LOL. TY again!
I was going to get mine replaced, before i got chance it broke. No warning, it works one minute then it don't. My notification was the warning light on the dash and the steam pouring from the engine bay. The expansion tank burst, spraying hot coolant everywhere. I was lucky, the engine or should i say the head did not get damaged. Very nearly serious engine damage, thankfully i was able to get off the road. Cost of repair, £1000 at BMW. If your car is anywhere near 100k miles don't delay, you might not be a lucky as i was
Oil pan on your car is easy when I compare it to my 328xi that I had to remove from axles and front differential and transfer case shaft . Another nice content from you and wish u the best buddy
We had a 328xi with a leaking oil pan and the dealer quoted north of 1k for it to get fixed because of all the 4 wheel drive bits in the way. At least that car got totaled so we never had to fix that lol.
I always like to keep my reservoir closed until I have disconnected the desired hose to avoid a big mess. Usually it helps me getting the hose on top of a tray before letting the coolant flow
I wouldn't call it a timebomb. DME runs self diagnosis on it regularly and you get a dash warning if anything goes to hell. The systems are designed well, level sensor in expansion tank, engine temperature protection modes based on temperature. Oil temps are monitored etc. On some engines they tend to die quicker (of course they usually output allot of heat and have earlier revisions). I would say that this waterpump and thermostat job is one of the time consuming ones, but there are far worse designs out there (VW's waterpump/thermostat combo under the intake) PSA's EP6 thermostat housing. GM's that you have to use a SST to hold the timing in place while you remove it, just one of those things. The best cars are the ones that make the most amount of money and the most reliable ones are usually gutless and not fun to drive. Of course Japanese vehicles of the same era are getting better as well. It used to be that once you had no coolant in the system, the temperature gauge was stuck on cold, the only time when you found out there was a problem is when there is steam or the engine seized.
its the stupid plastic that gets brittle, it heat cycles and swells and shrinks etc etc. if bmw would have made the cooling system that was designed for a turbo car instead of just using the n52 cooling system it would have worked a little better. dont even get me started on msd80 lol
"The systems are designed well, level sensor in expansion tank, engine temperature protection modes based on temperature. Oil temps are monitored etc."...... You are the one and only person I encountered giving a thumbs up to BMW's design. The entire BMW philosophy now is cheap material usage, and easy assembly that everything snaps in and plasticky parts that break, and couldn't care less of owners or mechanics downstream that have to maintain it. Everything on BMW nowadays are a royal pain to work on. Wonder why it costs so much to repair BMWs and why people are ditching it.
Great video, I have to do it as well. I thought you have to remove the subframe before replacing the water pump. You just proved it is not necessary. But would not have been a better idea to replace the water pump at the same time as changing the oil pan gasket? Removing the subframe should create much clearance around the water area.
Yep, it's the deal time to do it. My next job is dropping the frame for the oil pan gasket but I tend to do things in discrete jobs the way that you at home would do them.
Nice vid man. I saw a couple other vids of the same procedure, it looks like removing the right wheel and inside wheel covers does help with getting to some of the hard to reach places and removing the intercooler definitely helps too with space. I think be removing the right wheel allows you to get a nice long socket extension in there and allows access to that elusive top bolt. I will be attempting this in the next day as my water pump took a dump on me too now.
I did just first time waterpump to a BMW, which was E53 diesel. It had bit moisture on it on surface. 418tkm done, changed already once, but no mention about that in the service book, weird. I did use cheapest quality brand, which was at here Magneti Marelli. Atleast it makes some OEM parts too for BMW, so should be ok. Atleast the part finishing was good. Nice video again. Getting a coolant fluid in skin is always so annoying. Been there bit lately too :)
good video! Not enough cursing though! lol / I'm doing my 2006 325i and this has been the biggest pain, my arms were bleeding from scrapes, no room to work. Watching TH-cam gives me a break and encouragement. Thanks
Important to put the bmw year model in and tell the people if it is a petrol or a diesel car because all are different. This is my biggest problem with TH-cam videos. Just make sure you guys headings or video descriptions tell your listeners what we are dealing with. Thanks for the video
Model is stated cleary E90, 335i the i stands for petrol injection if it was a diesel it would be E90 335d. the N54 only ran from 06-10 in the E90s so take a guess, later years were the N55. only thing that would change it is x drive. but then it would be called a 335xi.
Name a BMW with a solid water pump from the factory. We got time. By the way dude, got my 330ci buttoned up and realized the starter was bad. Got THAT replaced and it actually started! Sort of! Was hoping I could salvage the plugs for a while to save money but they got gummed up when she overheated. But she did start! Edit: Hey, you got a sponsor for this video! Awesome!
You forgot the switch below the hazzard lights to hot, as well before pushing the accelerator pedal. I bled my e90 with that switch on cool and it was overheating. I put it to hot, bled it again and back in business. Just a heads up!!!
Copy paste from google. "The blue-middle-red dial in the center of your 2009 BMW 328i xDrive controls the temperature blend for the cabin air. This dial allows you to adjust the temperature of the air that comes through the front vents, independent of the main climate control settings. Here's what happens at each setting: Blue: When you turn the dial to the blue side, it directs cooler air through the vents, typically pulling cooler outside air if the air conditioning is off, or maximizing cold air if it’s on. Middle: In the middle position, the vent air will be a mix of the selected cabin temperature and ambient air. This setting balances between the blue (cooler) and red (warmer) settings. Red: Turning it to the red side warms the air, providing a slightly higher temperature than the main climate control setting to create a cozy airflow near you, even if the main cabin temperature is lower. This dial is meant for fine-tuning, especially when you want a different temperature for the front vents than the general cabin setting."
@seahawkgreenblue6085 I know exactly what its for but the bmw mechanic on YT bled his cooling system by doing that and I ommitted that step. That was causing my sisters car to overheat until I bled it once again turning that switch to hot and everything worked fine and dandy after that. Just saying!
Add some VP cooldown in your coolant and add AT 205 re-seal in your oil to moisturizer and swell up that rear main seal back to size also I used it with a rag on the top of a sun roof seal on other vehicles and it stopped water from leaking in when it rains and used on a lot of rubber parts that were almost dry rotted and made them soft and flexible again I used those products on my E93 they are safe
By the way, yeah you're right about that splash pan that is supposed to be on the bottom to cover up all the mechanical parts. I'm betting somebody took it off of yours and was too lazy to reinstall it. Lol That or either like me took it off and left it off on purpose because I like as much air flow to flow through my engine as it can get, hence me leaving my splash pan off when I installed a new thermostat. If I remember correctly it's like 15-20 8mm holding the splash pan on the bottom of the car. Something tells me thou the engine will last longer if that hot smothering splash pan isn't on the vehicle. You can always pressure wash the bottom of the car off when it gets muddy. 👍✌️
Hello, I think it will be interesting if you make a video summarizing all necessary preventative maintenance and recommended inspection/replacement intervals on this engine. And since I believe N52 engine is similar and also popular one, it would be nice if you mention any differences or specifics concerning preventative maintenance items on N52 as well. Cheers!
Very well done video and great info. I have a hose leaking badly from the Water pump area. We kind of narrowed it down to either that U shaped hose (w/silver heat shield) or a short elbow shaped hose right near it. The problem is we can't get to it on a 2008 E90 335XI model (N54 engine). Is there a video on this or any advice would be surely welcome to get these two hoses off. Thanks as always. Phil
OEM water pump for my Z3 was also junk with a cheesy impeller. I replaced it with one by Stewart which looked like a piece of art with a machined aluminum impeller.
going with an aluminum impeller vs a plastic one is a risky decision. i have heard of these and further research ALWAYS shows that it's better to have the waterpump impeller fail instead of the bore it's sitting in. think about it, would you rather a new water pump or a new engine? i dont think machining a new hole is an option...
@@PlymitBoy The OEM impeller was spot-welded sheet metal. When I finally replaced the Stewart water pump after over a decade, it was the bearings that wore out, leaking water out the weep hole.
I dread replacing my water pump in my X1. The swaybar will without question be removed, also looking as if I take the fan out i'll have a good bit more room to get that one out. I've already replaced the thermostat, it can be changed out fairly quick from the top by removing a hose or two. Seems like you could have removed your thermostat from above as well, not exactly sure, haven't worked on that model Beamer before. I know your thermostat housing is huge compared to mine, so any way you wanna slice it or dice it, it's a pain in the ass either way. Lol Good vid!
@50skid good job sir, just two questions maybe stupid. 1. When doing the coolant procedure at the very end does the car need to be flat or can it be done when the front end is jacked up. 2. My bleeder screw was leaking recently and I replaced it with a brass one. Does simply replacing this require a bleeding preocedure
I need your help and experience. I replaced the rear turbo coolant lines due to a massive leak. The massive leak was fixed by doing that but now I have a small leak that seamed to come from the o-ring on the return line, I removed the turbo and cleaned the area, placed a brand new o-ring and made sure it was seated properly, etc. stuck a camera and no leaks can be observed coming from the area, but still get droplets running all the way down the transmission housing and sometimes they end up on the downpipes. My bes guess right now is either a head gasket issue (there’s no coolant in the oil) or a freeze plug. I did a coolant flush after my oil filter housing failed and poored oil into the coolant system. I’m guessing the flush chemicals did a number on my block.
@@charlesberry4958 ye I just did my water pump n thermostat on an e series 335 x drive. I better hope I don’t have to do that shiz again, the hoses in the back so hard to get to took me like 8 hours no wonder it’s a 1k+ job in labor n parts
I know this video is only a couple months old, but how has the pierburg pump been doing? Some people say just get the FCP euro one and use the warranty when it inevitably fails. There’s some mention of the pierburg but not anyone who can definitely say it’s more reliable. Thank you for the content, just subscribed.
Working fine. Like you said, it’s only been a few months. Don’t overthink it too much. You’re likely only going to need to replace a water pump once in the life of the car, no matter which one you use
I need to replace my thermostat, and this video is very helpful, and thanks for the detailed explaination. I have a question. wouldn't it be easier or possible to remove the water pump first, and than remove the thermostat through the big opening where the water pump was removed? anyone have done this repair and is what I am saying a possibility? thanks in advance.
Have a 2008 bmw 335i, coolant light came on today and wen i reversed, noticed a good amount of blue coolant dumped out and started dripping from underneath car. Does this mean New waterpump????? It dumped it all out…..
So is it easier just to replace the water pump than the thermostat , meaning I had the thermostat replaced about 6 months ago and now the pump went out 😅
I got mine changed at a shop recently under warranty. Now I start to hear a like a weird crackling/whistling noise. It’s not coming from the turbos. What would be the first things to check? Seems like water pump is working find. The noise just started
im going to be doing water pump and engine mounts at the same time as the oil pan gasket. i went ahead and ordered the o rings and gaskets for the turbo coolant and oil feed and drain lines. shouldn't be too much extra effort while im in there right?
having cooling problems. i think the pump is going. did test on ISTA ... ran the 50% and 95 % test. At 50% got 52% but at 95% got 89% instead. Did Test on INPA ran the engine on idle up to 109C and the pump remained at 15%RPM. at 90C it went up to 50 or so % for a few seconds...then dropped down to 15% and stayed there. Temp continued to rise. the fan kicked in at some point.. i figured the pump should have kicked into high gear by now,but it did not So i turned off the engine to stop the temp rise. Also having coolant pump missing code.
I would love to bring my x5 to your shop !My health has not been so good! I don't believe I have the energy any more! I know you are in SO CAL lol ! Just haven't investigated yet !
Is that sway bar spring loaded or under tension?? Have 2012 335is... I loosened mine and it popped down and was a PIA to get back up. I could not push it back up with my bare hands. Luckily I didn't take it all the way down I feel like I would've needed a Jack push it back up to the studs to put the bolts back on
change it (plus thermostat) at 100k mi/ 11years and sold the old one for $50 because it was still working (the buyer was confused of why I was selling it :)
I know this is old but currently doing this on a 2011 335 n55 x-drive and after removing the old pump and thermostat and installing the new the pump does not want to bleed😡. No its not ''The fuse''.
Untighten the water pump (give it some wriggle room so the bolt can get some tension) once it’s in it’s very easy to get it the rest of the way in. My mistake was tightening the two screws underneath the water pump, I don’t think it was aligned properly until I loosened it up.
I think I would rather die than do this repair again!! In my E90 is it was near impossible to get to the upper bolt without a second person guiding the socket from the top of the engine. Totally blind from under the car. I think I initially removed the ac mounting bolt accidentally rather than that upper bolt.
22:11 BMW lost their minds with the n54.. They use injectors that had never been around before and built an engine that drops in like it will never be worked on again. I'm convinced BMW thought these would be discarded to the salvage yards after XX years. It would also explain why most shops quote insanely high labor charges. I've pulled motors to work on them easier. That is ridiculously more risky and not easier on these cars... It will come apart, but you may never get it back together LOL
why doesn't anyone ever flush their cooling system with water before jobs like this? I'm not like saying that's the way I do it, I'm actually really new to working on my car, but I do need to do some hose/expansion tank replacements soon. Is there a good reason why I shoudn't just flush it out with water first so I don't get coolant everywhere, I want to flush it anyway...
If you own a BMW with an electric water pump its a good idea to replace it at about 120000 Km I have owned 328 coupe and still own a 335is and both called it a day round 130000k
Well done, Jason! What WILL you do when EVs take over?! 😉 Btw I was at my BMW dealer this week picking up some oil and one of my friends there tells me they've had a ton of pre-orders on the upcoming EVs. Lots of interest. I saw a review today from the US and they mentioned the SUV version starts at $US85K! Carumba 🙀
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it how ever with shampoo bottle quality plastic parts that flood your KIA I mean BMW if your replacing any thing itching in the coolant dept do it all as a package
Why didn't you just unscrew the bleed screw from the bottom of the radiator????? Before opening any of the hoses, you could have gotten rid of most of it.
Great video. Will be doing my e90 water pump soon. I saw the e90 oil pan gasket you did first which lead me here and several of your other video. I wasn't sure I was going to do an oil pan, but I will be doing it now. Just pulled the intake manifold off my e39, getting all cooling hoses, vacuum hoses, rotten/hard hoses, coolant pipes, temp sensors, and ccv replaced. My car just needs a lot of work after the Covid lockdown of little use. I commented to my son last summer when I visited him that one of the best places to get help for his e46 on youtube is 50sKid. He was way ahead of me...said "his videos are great!" Thank you for giving me the confidence to work on my own cars. FYI - took a tour of the BMW factory is South Carolina, and now I completely understand why working on them can be so tight and awkward. thanks again.
I worked at the dealer when the E9X was new. We were replacing those pumps everyday. 1 hour job. From diag to test drive
There are a few ways to tell if the pump is going bad.
1. Fault codes.
2. Cooling fan spinning at full speed for no reason.
3. You can do a bleeding procedure to test the speed of the pump.
Also. Replace the hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat. The flange on the head is made out of plastic and it breaks all the time.
"1 hour job" damn when I did this in my garage, i probably had 1 hour in just cussing out the car
I’ve a question. I’ve got the dreaded orange onto red o reheat odd drive 1/5. When do bleeding test water shoots info expansion tank good rate. Confused why intermittent failure water pump when pumps garage static bleed test ?
I plan on doing a flush, and changing the flang when I do the water punp/thermostat.
Thanks for your input. I have a coolant leak somewhere but I am not sure where it is coming from. I took the undertray off and inspected from below. It seems to be dripping from whatever is above the waterpump or thermostat. I checked all other lines and they seem okay. The waterpump had coolant on it but I don't know if that's where it is leaking from. I have no codes or any symptoms of waterpump failure. Any idea what it could be. Like I said all hoses I could see, minus the U hose from thermostat to waterpump looked bad.
@@PHFilms3 What year engine BMW is it, thanks Dan
Every video I watch on this E90 Jason, simply reinforces my intent to never sell my E46!!!
It's more fun to drive though lol
dont the e46 have rear suspension rust problem.. were the rear end comes loose?
@@randellgribben9772 they dont "come loose" they tend to crack but only the 330 and m3 really, especially pre-facelift models. if you get them before it haappens you can reinforce and basically bullet proof it from happening.
@@randellgribben9772 and its the subframe not suspension
@@randellgribben9772 It's not rust, the chassis can crack and in extreme cases the rear subframe can come away. Mines an auto and a convertible, so pretty safe, plus been inspected, showing no signs of cracking anywhere :)
awesome video man, don't own an e90 but is just satisfying to watch a man who works with passion.
I watched two different videos on how to do this job. Yours is easier 👍🏾. Took me 3 hours start to finish on axle stands.
My 2 E90s, 1 240'000km, other 250'000km, both original waterpump running strong. Dont have to fail. Cooling Fluid you can use Glysantin G48 (dont know about US but you can get it everywhere in Europe).
So here it goes, first Pump starts to fail (throws codes) at 272'000km. Fair enough. Brought me back to this video.
I commend you for actually coming back to the video to acknowledge that yours went too. Awesome kms out of your originals. Hope the replacement went smooth and you get many kms out of the new ones
About to swap out my pump this evenjng! Best video I’ve seen on how to replace the pump!
Finally! I’ve been looking for a Pierburg metal water pump video :)
How has this pump been working for you
@@cop2506 i got it… it kicks ass bro
There's a plastic fitting (aka Mickey Mouse fitting) on the other end of the hose you clamped to the thermostat that goes into the cylinder head that degrades over time and either leaks or fails catastrophically. Aftermarket aluminum replacements are available and it's a great time to replace at the same time as the water pump. Nice video.
+1. When I went to replace mine during radiator DIY I did the ‘Mickey Mouse’ flange and the original crumbled in my hands as I was removing definitely don’t overlook that little guy.
Everything I see how difficult this car is make me so happy with my e46. But good job on the vid. Its nice to learn more bmw stuff
Same Here. Love my E46.
In my opinion, E46 is well engineered in regard to service!
@Tj Semeniuk I never had a problem with the water pump i changed mine when i rebuilt the motor. But I don't understand why everyone says it's hard to change. Buy the upgraded pump then never worry about it again.
@@xCRASHxNxBURNx91x Exactly.
I miss my e46!
The most detailed video I found on TH-cam. Thanks bud. I will be replacing my too soon.
One super important part to change when doing this as well is the coolant flange on the block. ECS tuning sells an upgraded one for 25 bucks this part will leave you stranded if it breaks.
It’s 40$
@@BmwMe-uh9sy Dang they raised the price it used to be 25.
send me part number. thank you.
@seahawkgreenblue6085 CHC0609 - Rein and ES#3552811 - ECS brand.
Over the years I can't count the times you helped me!! THANK YOU! Seriously Thank you! This job has been the craziest for me because I have the X drive version and it's even harder than it is (of course it is) to do the regular I version. That little clip was a huge help to see that I needed to remove it before I tried to keep on fitting my socket onto that bolt. So much more STUPID road blocks as I learned all about the stupidity pf this DIY LOL. But it is doable. It just SUCKS!!! LOL. TY again!
My boy lost some weight , unlike me during the pandemic lol. I been rocking this channel since his E46. Love this channel
Another great video Jason. Thanks for your efforts.
Great detailed demonstration of what must happen to replace the coolant pump and thermostat, thanks for your channel.
I was going to get mine replaced, before i got chance it broke. No warning, it works one minute then it don't. My notification was the warning light on the dash and the steam pouring from the engine bay. The expansion tank burst, spraying hot coolant everywhere. I was lucky, the engine or should i say the head did not get damaged. Very nearly serious engine damage, thankfully i was able to get off the road. Cost of repair, £1000 at BMW. If your car is anywhere near 100k miles don't delay, you might not be a lucky as i was
Oil pan on your car is easy when I compare it to my 328xi that I had to remove from axles and front differential and transfer case shaft . Another nice content from you and wish u the best buddy
Yeah 4 wheel drive oil pans are never fun. I've been there.
We had a 328xi with a leaking oil pan and the dealer quoted north of 1k for it to get fixed because of all the 4 wheel drive bits in the way. At least that car got totaled so we never had to fix that lol.
I always like to keep my reservoir closed until I have disconnected the desired hose to avoid a big mess. Usually it helps me getting the hose on top of a tray before letting the coolant flow
Yeah that’s a good idea
@@50sKid Thanks Jason! And btw your content is priceless to us trying to do things ourselves
I wouldn't call it a timebomb.
DME runs self diagnosis on it regularly and you get a dash warning if anything goes to hell.
The systems are designed well, level sensor in expansion tank, engine temperature protection modes based on temperature.
Oil temps are monitored etc.
On some engines they tend to die quicker (of course they usually output allot of heat and have earlier revisions).
I would say that this waterpump and thermostat job is one of the time consuming ones, but there are far worse designs out there (VW's waterpump/thermostat combo under the intake) PSA's EP6 thermostat housing. GM's that you have to use a SST to hold the timing in place while you remove it, just one of those things.
The best cars are the ones that make the most amount of money and the most reliable ones are usually gutless and not fun to drive.
Of course Japanese vehicles of the same era are getting better as well.
It used to be that once you had no coolant in the system, the temperature gauge was stuck on cold, the only time when you found out there was a problem is when there is steam or the engine seized.
Wow thanks for sharing
its the stupid plastic that gets brittle, it heat cycles and swells and shrinks etc etc. if bmw would have made the cooling system that was designed for a turbo car instead of just using the n52 cooling system it would have worked a little better. dont even get me started on msd80 lol
"The systems are designed well, level sensor in expansion tank, engine temperature protection modes based on temperature.
Oil temps are monitored etc."......
You are the one and only person I encountered giving a thumbs up to BMW's design. The entire BMW philosophy now is cheap material usage, and easy assembly that everything snaps in and plasticky parts that break, and couldn't care less of owners or mechanics downstream that have to maintain it. Everything on BMW nowadays are a royal pain to work on. Wonder why it costs so much to repair BMWs and why people are ditching it.
Great video, I have to do it as well. I thought you have to remove the subframe before replacing the water pump. You just proved it is not necessary. But would not have been a better idea to replace the water pump at the same time as changing the oil pan gasket? Removing the subframe should create much clearance around the water area.
Yep, it's the deal time to do it. My next job is dropping the frame for the oil pan gasket but I tend to do things in discrete jobs the way that you at home would do them.
Nice vid man. I saw a couple other vids of the same procedure, it looks like removing the right wheel and inside wheel covers does help with getting to some of the hard to reach places and removing the intercooler definitely helps too with space. I think be removing the right wheel allows you to get a nice long socket extension in there and allows access to that elusive top bolt. I will be attempting this in the next day as my water pump took a dump on me too now.
I did just first time waterpump to a BMW, which was E53 diesel. It had bit moisture on it on surface. 418tkm done, changed already once, but no mention about that in the service book, weird. I did use cheapest quality brand, which was at here Magneti Marelli. Atleast it makes some OEM parts too for BMW, so should be ok. Atleast the part finishing was good. Nice video again. Getting a coolant fluid in skin is always so annoying. Been there bit lately too :)
M57D30 is such a great engine, have you had to do much more maintenance/repair to get the X5 to that milage?
good video! Not enough cursing though! lol / I'm doing my 2006 325i and this has been the biggest pain, my arms were bleeding from scrapes, no room to work. Watching TH-cam gives me a break and encouragement. Thanks
Important to put the bmw year model in and tell the people if it is a petrol or a diesel car because all are different.
This is my biggest problem with TH-cam videos.
Just make sure you guys headings or video descriptions tell your listeners what we are dealing with.
Thanks for the video
Yeah good call
Model is stated cleary E90, 335i the i stands for petrol injection if it was a diesel it would be E90 335d. the N54 only ran from 06-10 in the E90s so take a guess, later years were the N55. only thing that would change it is x drive. but then it would be called a 335xi.
All of these bmw videos inspires me to sell all my cars and never buy another one again, or just have enough money to just hire a man to fix it.
Name a BMW with a solid water pump from the factory. We got time.
By the way dude, got my 330ci buttoned up and realized the starter was bad. Got THAT replaced and it actually started! Sort of! Was hoping I could salvage the plugs for a while to save money but they got gummed up when she overheated. But she did start!
Edit: Hey, you got a sponsor for this video! Awesome!
Well I'll name one BMW with good water pump,2011 X5 35d with M57 tween turbo.This ting has 200k miles and still going strong.
You forgot the switch below the hazzard lights to hot, as well before pushing the accelerator pedal.
I bled my e90 with that switch on cool and it was overheating.
I put it to hot, bled it again and back in business.
Just a heads up!!!
Copy paste from google. "The blue-middle-red dial in the center of your 2009 BMW 328i xDrive controls the temperature blend for the cabin air. This dial allows you to adjust the temperature of the air that comes through the front vents, independent of the main climate control settings.
Here's what happens at each setting:
Blue: When you turn the dial to the blue side, it directs cooler air through the vents, typically pulling cooler outside air if the air conditioning is off, or maximizing cold air if it’s on.
Middle: In the middle position, the vent air will be a mix of the selected cabin temperature and ambient air. This setting balances between the blue (cooler) and red (warmer) settings.
Red: Turning it to the red side warms the air, providing a slightly higher temperature than the main climate control setting to create a cozy airflow near you, even if the main cabin temperature is lower.
This dial is meant for fine-tuning, especially when you want a different temperature for the front vents than the general cabin setting."
@seahawkgreenblue6085 I know exactly what its for but the bmw mechanic on YT bled his cooling system by doing that and I ommitted that step.
That was causing my sisters car to overheat until I bled it once again turning that switch to hot and everything worked fine and dandy after that. Just saying!
Thanks for the video going to tackle this on my e90 this week
God bless, i like this guy show every single detail of the job that’s great
Great video , So professional and spontaneous talk 👍🏿🙏🙏
Add some VP cooldown in your coolant and add AT 205 re-seal in your oil to moisturizer and swell up that rear main seal back to size also I used it with a rag on the top of a sun roof seal on other vehicles and it stopped water from leaking in when it rains and used on a lot of rubber parts that were almost dry rotted and made them soft and flexible again I used those products on my E93 they are safe
By the way, yeah you're right about that splash pan that is supposed to be on the bottom to cover up all the mechanical parts. I'm betting somebody took it off of yours and was too lazy to reinstall it. Lol That or either like me took it off and left it off on purpose because I like as much air flow to flow through my engine as it can get, hence me leaving my splash pan off when I installed a new thermostat. If I remember correctly it's like 15-20 8mm holding the splash pan on the bottom of the car. Something tells me thou the engine will last longer if that hot smothering splash pan isn't on the vehicle. You can always pressure wash the bottom of the car off when it gets muddy. 👍✌️
The fluid you heard dripping was the weep hole it’s common for first couple mins if install
Hello,
I think it will be interesting if you make a video summarizing all necessary preventative maintenance and recommended inspection/replacement intervals on this engine. And since I believe N52 engine is similar and also popular one, it would be nice if you mention any differences or specifics concerning preventative maintenance items on N52 as well.
Cheers!
Very well done video and great info.
I have a hose leaking badly from the Water pump area. We kind of narrowed it down to either that U shaped hose (w/silver heat shield) or a short elbow shaped hose right near it. The problem is we can't get to it on a 2008 E90 335XI model (N54 engine).
Is there a video on this or any advice would be surely welcome to get these two hoses off.
Thanks as always.
Phil
OEM water pump for my Z3 was also junk with a cheesy impeller. I replaced it with one by Stewart which looked like a piece of art with a machined aluminum impeller.
going with an aluminum impeller vs a plastic one is a risky decision. i have heard of these and further research ALWAYS shows that it's better to have the waterpump impeller fail instead of the bore it's sitting in. think about it, would you rather a new water pump or a new engine? i dont think machining a new hole is an option...
@@PlymitBoy The OEM impeller was spot-welded sheet metal.
When I finally replaced the Stewart water pump after over a decade, it was the bearings that wore out, leaking water out the weep hole.
I dread replacing my water pump in my X1. The swaybar will without question be removed, also looking as if I take the fan out i'll have a good bit more room to get that one out. I've already replaced the thermostat, it can be changed out fairly quick from the top by removing a hose or two. Seems like you could have removed your thermostat from above as well, not exactly sure, haven't worked on that model Beamer before. I know your thermostat housing is huge compared to mine, so any way you wanna slice it or dice it, it's a pain in the ass either way. Lol Good vid!
Thanks god for your Channel my two"ALTIMATE LEAKING MACHINES" e 60 and e 46 would make me homeless were it not for your good DIY. Boy... do they leak.
Much easier if you drop the subframe
@50skid good job sir, just two questions maybe stupid. 1. When doing the coolant procedure at the very end does the car need to be flat or can it be done when the front end is jacked up. 2. My bleeder screw was leaking recently and I replaced it with a brass one. Does simply replacing this require a bleeding preocedure
I need your help and experience.
I replaced the rear turbo coolant lines due to a massive leak. The massive leak was fixed by doing that but now I have a small leak that seamed to come from the o-ring on the return line, I removed the turbo and cleaned the area, placed a brand new o-ring and made sure it was seated properly, etc. stuck a camera and no leaks can be observed coming from the area, but still get droplets running all the way down the transmission housing and sometimes they end up on the downpipes.
My bes guess right now is either a head gasket issue (there’s no coolant in the oil) or a freeze plug.
I did a coolant flush after my oil filter housing failed and poored oil into the coolant system. I’m guessing the flush chemicals did a number on my block.
This is pure joy on an F30 N55 with X drive.
A pita
@@BmwMe-uh9sy it was a pita and I got a good taste of antifreeze.
@@charlesberry4958 ye I just did my water pump n thermostat on an e series 335 x drive. I better hope I don’t have to do that shiz again, the hoses in the back so hard to get to took me like 8 hours no wonder it’s a 1k+ job in labor n parts
Love your content. Any chance you take a road trip and teach me how to replace mine?
Mine has basically died on me, luckily its the middle of winter lol. I will be replacing it this weekend though.
Just when I was thinking of doing my waterpump 😂
My son waited... Ended up having to have it installed at a shop. $1700. $1000 for BMW pump and thermostat. So do it now while you can...
Thought the same thing ughhh painful
Thx for the video !! Great job
Anybody with a BMW and problems, I send to this channel.
I know this video is only a couple months old, but how has the pierburg pump been doing? Some people say just get the FCP euro one and use the warranty when it inevitably fails. There’s some mention of the pierburg but not anyone who can definitely say it’s more reliable. Thank you for the content, just subscribed.
Working fine. Like you said, it’s only been a few months. Don’t overthink it too much. You’re likely only going to need to replace a water pump once in the life of the car, no matter which one you use
@@50sKid stále funguje ? mám v plánu koupit. Mé staré přestalo pracovat
so we do not have to add water to the pump before installing? heard you could get airpocket and burn up new pump.
I need to replace my thermostat, and this video is very helpful, and thanks for the detailed explaination. I have a question. wouldn't it be easier or possible to remove the water pump first, and than remove the thermostat through the big opening where the water pump was removed? anyone have done this repair and is what I am saying a possibility? thanks in advance.
Hi,can you please make as understand which pipe goes where at the front of the thermostat.
Have a 2008 bmw 335i, coolant light came on today and wen i reversed, noticed a good amount of blue coolant dumped out and started dripping from underneath car.
Does this mean New waterpump????? It dumped it all out…..
great video
So is it easier just to replace the water pump than the thermostat , meaning I had the thermostat replaced about 6 months ago and now the pump went out 😅
Damn bro u lost weight, good job!
I got mine changed at a shop recently under warranty. Now I start to hear a like a weird crackling/whistling noise. It’s not coming from the turbos. What would be the first things to check? Seems like water pump is working find. The noise just started
I did my E60 535 pump and thermostat a few months ago. I can confirm that this job sucks! 😉
4 dislikes were from the factory water pumps being replaced
im going to be doing water pump and engine mounts at the same time as the oil pan gasket. i went ahead and ordered the o rings and gaskets for the turbo coolant and oil feed and drain lines. shouldn't be too much extra effort while im in there right?
I replaced the pump and my car wont start still, it has a code that says lost communication with coolant pump. How can i fix that?
having cooling problems. i think the pump is going. did test on ISTA ... ran the 50% and 95 % test. At 50% got 52% but at 95% got 89% instead. Did Test on INPA ran the engine on idle up to 109C and the pump remained at 15%RPM. at 90C it went up to 50 or so % for a few seconds...then dropped down to 15% and stayed there. Temp continued to rise. the fan kicked in at some point.. i figured the pump should have kicked into high gear by now,but it did not So i turned off the engine to stop the temp rise. Also having coolant pump missing code.
I would love to bring my x5 to your shop !My health has not been so good! I don't believe I have the energy any more! I know you are in SO CAL lol ! Just haven't investigated yet !
is it the same procedure for a e90 328 non x drive?
Is that sway bar spring loaded or under tension?? Have 2012 335is... I loosened mine and it popped down and was a PIA to get back up. I could not push it back up with my bare hands. Luckily I didn't take it all the way down I feel like I would've needed a Jack push it back up to the studs to put the bolts back on
How’s it going now ? Still active ?
You’re lookin great man, keep it up!
change it (plus thermostat) at 100k mi/ 11years and sold the old one for $50 because it was still working (the buyer was confused of why I was selling it :)
Do you have a follow up for this pump?
I know this is old but currently doing this on a 2011 335 n55 x-drive and after removing the old pump and thermostat and installing the new the pump does not want to bleed😡. No its not ''The fuse''.
Should get an f30 for some f30 content lol I still watch the videos though regardless
What are the Required kilometers to change water pump
How in gods name do you get the 3rd screw back on to the water pump….it keeps falling out when I attempt to tighten it.
Untighten the water pump (give it some wriggle room so the bolt can get some tension) once it’s in it’s very easy to get it the rest of the way in.
My mistake was tightening the two screws underneath the water pump, I don’t think it was aligned properly until I loosened it up.
Did you remove fan shroud?
My 335i is literally on jack stands right now and I'm thinking the water pump or the thermostat hose has gone bad
Good luck!
If the water pump is working but still have overheating ... so what to check
Coolant Temp sensor.
Jason where can I find the hat that you are always wearing. Thing is wicked!
For a half second I thought Kevin Spacey owned a 335i.
what's the part # non water pump metal one
Leave it to BMW to turn the cooling system into a Rube Goldberg device. 😛
Well done !
Thank you for this good video :)
I think I would rather die than do this repair again!! In my E90 is it was near impossible to get to the upper bolt without a second person guiding the socket from the top of the engine. Totally blind from under the car. I think I initially removed the ac mounting bolt accidentally rather than that upper bolt.
Yeah that upper bolt sucked!!
the engineer who designed this pump should be in jail
22:11 BMW lost their minds with the n54.. They use injectors that had never been around before and built an engine that drops in like it will never be worked on again. I'm convinced BMW thought these would be discarded to the salvage yards after XX years. It would also explain why most shops quote insanely high labor charges. I've pulled motors to work on them easier. That is ridiculously more risky and not easier on these cars... It will come apart, but you may never get it back together LOL
why doesn't anyone ever flush their cooling system with water before jobs like this? I'm not like saying that's the way I do it, I'm actually really new to working on my car, but I do need to do some hose/expansion tank replacements soon. Is there a good reason why I shoudn't just flush it out with water first so I don't get coolant everywhere, I want to flush it anyway...
If you own a BMW with an electric water pump its a good idea to replace it at about 120000 Km I have owned 328 coupe and still own a 335is and both called it a day round 130000k
The best water pump for BMW is Stewart brand.
What is the water pump brand?
Are the after market parts any better than factory parts?
Typically worse, but pierberg isn't aftermarket
Good
Well done, Jason!
What WILL you do when EVs take over?! 😉
Btw I was at my BMW dealer this week picking up some oil and one of my friends there tells me they've had a ton of pre-orders on the upcoming EVs. Lots of interest.
I saw a review today from the US and they mentioned the SUV version starts at $US85K! Carumba 🙀
Ah I think we’ll keep some old cars around for 50+ years at least. But I’ll be glad to see most of the fleet changed over to EV
I’m keeping my E82 coupe forever, I think 😎
N52. Hydraulic assist steering. Sport pkg.
perfetto 👌🏼
EVs are a forced future and not even the best solution you can come up with for cars but everybody is just passively going along with it anyway
I’ve replaced my e61 water pump and wonder how you could do this without swearing 🤮🇨🇦
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it how ever with shampoo bottle quality plastic parts that flood your KIA I mean BMW if your replacing any thing itching in the coolant dept do it all as a package
Much easier if you get the wheel off...
Why?
@@50sKid have better access to pump bolts through the wheel well. I've done a couple on the jackstands ;)
@@AlecKristi Hmm... I'll have to take a look next time I'm down there
thank you for reminding me, not to buy a bmw
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
HeY OEM BUMMER PARTS ?? Why don’t u offer shit for x6 a??? FCP it is then I guess. Which I mean how can u beat “lifetime replacement”
Lol “bimmer ? “ lol is it not beeeemer
Why didn't you just unscrew the bleed screw from the bottom of the radiator????? Before opening any of the hoses, you could have gotten rid of most of it.
Because half the time it won’t seal back properly
@@noahzm_yep they are usually embedded from being left untouched for years, best just to keep things simple