@@Liberator12k Good morning/night. Weird question but could you sleeve a 4.5-16mm linear rail, brass rod, or capillary tube with a 3d print with slots with the rifling pattern instead of copper wires? There's also the .5-1x.25-.5mm ribbon wires that are used in vaping too but I don't have the means to try them. Got old pc power supplies and printers to harvest from but no 3d printer or modeling experience. The friction fit sleeve should isolate parts of the tube as long as there's no solution contacting it right? Why am I here at 4 A.M after looking at air rifle stuff?
in Russia we use a roller from a bearing. It needs to be chosen the desired diameter and cut dremel grooves at an angle. Then with the help of a punch (jackhammer) push through the billet barrel. it is faster and easier (if you do not forget about lubrication)
@waptek yes. It would be simpler to take a reamer, heat it up red and give it a twist, cut off a piece and push it by hammer or press. You can choose the amount of flutes you want by grinding off some from the reamer.
Most wire comes out of the drawing process work hardened to some degree, if you're having problems with it not taking shape, heat up a batch of wire to cherry red and quench in water to fully anneal it.
yes. copper and silver get dead soft when you quench them from cherry red - almost like lead - floppy soft. if you soak stainless steel for a bit at cherry red, it dissolves carbides so if you quench it, they don't form granules that destroy drill bits - effectively softening the stainless steel.
One could also make each strand from several smaller strands twisted together to reach the gauge you need. Basically litz wire that's really flexible and then just solder the ends together on the mandrel. I would suggest dipping the in a solder pot, then a quick dip in water so the solder heat doesn't flow up the wires and melt the plastic of the mandrel. (Been there done this)
I want to see this on a wet table with CNC controller. Slow mans plasma cutter / engraver. Modifying g-code processor to support amperage based Z-offsets would be pretty straightforward. Engraving plates and logos would be pretty neat. Of course you can still use the old cotton swab and salt water with a stencil, but hey.
Yes and no. 2 NaCl + H2O does produce Cl2 (and 2 NaOH, and H2) but because there isn't a membrane it reacts with 2 NaOH to produce NaCl, NaClO and H2O. The production of chlorine using salt is known as the chloralkali process and it's how the world gets most of it's chlorine gas. The membrane used is not easy to come by and it isn't easily done by an amature. If it were, I would be rich. I live next to a giant pile of salt (about 4.5 billion tons) that anyone can take.
Looking to make other mandrels for different calibers. Do I bore out 5 thou under bullet diameter and rifle 5 thou over? Also, the 16mm hydraulic pipe, what’s the largest caliber that can be loaded safely before it blows the barrel up? Working on my own gun design using 1 inch square tubing for a breach face so not worried about that so much
That's the basic idea, but note that rifling depth varies by caliber. .22 only has like 2-3 thou deep grooves. I have a calculator in the project for determining chamber pressure, I'll have to do a video on how it works sometime.. but it's in the Calculators directory.
Great, another project added to the list. Lol. I was gonna just use an already rifled 9mm barrel for the semi auto 9mm home build I want to try, but now theres this..
@@Liberator12k Good to see you wearing gloves. Any one working with metals that are in an ionized form needs to use protection. I think the aluminum and lead poisoning I got 10 years ago was from replicating Tesla's high frequency current patents. If any of you work with these sorts of things and start to have crazy symptoms look into metal poisoning. Good work laying this out. And if you haven't already, putting it into a pdf form and sharing a torrent and spreading the info would be great before the judeo-masonic ruling class impairs our access to such procedures (why reinvent the wheel right?) I'd also consider a well ventilated space for these processes. I know some types of steel have toxic elements in them to prevent rust. SS 316 has chromium IIRC.
Hi, What constant flow of current (volts) do you need from the start of the process until it ends? And, How long does the whole process take until the barrel is ready? Greetings from Costa Rica👍🏿
Hi Caleb. It depends, mostly on your power supply's max. Most of the cheap Chinese lab supplies max out at 5a. Otherwise, You'll generally get a better surface finish with lower amperage. TL:DR; 5a
@@Liberator12k ahhh ok thanks for that can I have the link to your repo then. Keep up the great work. I used to have it but I somehow lost it. All I need would be the actual rifling mandrel not the other stuff I have a rig for that.
Hi, I'm your fan. I also design a weapon (such a hobby). I was wondering how easy it was to make the barrel thread, this method is great but I have come up with something better. You can print bushings with threaded grooves, push them into the barrel and pour acid so that the grooves are etched. What do you think about this?
You might be able to produce quite complex shapes using 3D printed molds covered in copper leaf. You would need to figure out a mechanism, preferably also printed, for lowering the mold onto the work while running a steady flow of fresh electrolyte between them, but that is not that hard to design. I'm thinking bolts with locking lugs, bolt carriers, trunnions etc.(edit) I looked it up and my idea with molds was unnecessarily complicated. People are already modifying their 3D printers into electrochemical CNC machines. I suppose you will not find it on TH-cam, but the first ECM'd AR18 probably already exists.
The whole idea of a 3D printed "mandrel" is that you could make the twist any way you like and as many grooves you like. Is you were really twisted, one could model a variable twist rate in a rifle barrel.
I'm curious, is this an exercise in using a different process for sake of learning? Because to an outside observer, this seems like an overcomplicated and less precise approach than button rifling.
Couldnt you wrap a copper electrode with string or wire, paint liberally, remove string after it dries. boom, there is your electrode. Or if you wanted more consistent water flow and crisp rifling you could coat the inner barrel, scrape off your pattern with a simple homeade tool, then run loosly braded wire for the electrode and circulate water in a closed loop through barrel. You got me thinking so I thought I would return the favor ;) nice work. Ameerricaa, f*ck yeeaahhhh!
La resistance! Or some sh*t hah yeah noticed that after, I figured you further developed the idea. Since yesterday I think I like the idea of a small rigid tube with a hole on the side of the end, flexible dremal shaft inside attached to a tiny flat tippid diamond or carbide mill bit, coming out at 10-15°. Pulling or pushing the shaft to adjust the depth. This assembly would be Ridgid, and the barrel would be fed with a simple spiral cam jig. Coolant fed threw the tube for long barrels or whatever. I was able to get the o.d. of the drill assembly down to around .2 so it will be capable of every caliber, which is all I got so far. I'm impatient I can't wait for santa clause and his little electrons to rifle my barrel lol. I really do like the idea though
This would actually solve the problem of fluting the chambers for roller-delayed blowback HK firearms in a home-shop setting.
@@Liberator12k wouldnt it be easier to use a trunion for the roller delayed lock?
@@Liberator12k I think that a lever-delayed would be simpler to make, but trickier to design.
@@Liberator12k Good morning/night. Weird question but could you sleeve a 4.5-16mm linear rail, brass rod, or capillary tube with a 3d print with slots with the rifling pattern instead of copper wires? There's also the .5-1x.25-.5mm ribbon wires that are used in vaping too but I don't have the means to try them. Got old pc power supplies and printers to harvest from but no 3d printer or modeling experience. The friction fit sleeve should isolate parts of the tube as long as there's no solution contacting it right? Why am I here at 4 A.M after looking at air rifle stuff?
in Russia we use a roller from a bearing. It needs to be chosen the desired diameter and cut dremel grooves at an angle. Then with the help of a punch (jackhammer) push through the billet barrel. it is faster and easier (if you do not forget about lubrication)
@waptek yes. It would be simpler to take a reamer, heat it up red and give it a twist, cut off a piece and push it by hammer or press. You can choose the amount of flutes you want by grinding off some from the reamer.
Thanks for your contribution to the gun building community. Ordered everything from aliexpress that was on the fgc9 list. The wait time sucks
hello fbi watch list again
Poor fbi
Most wire comes out of the drawing process work hardened to some degree, if you're having problems with it not taking shape, heat up a batch of wire to cherry red and quench in water to fully anneal it.
yes. copper and silver get dead soft when you quench them from cherry red - almost like lead - floppy soft.
if you soak stainless steel for a bit at cherry red, it dissolves carbides so if you quench it, they don't form granules that destroy drill bits - effectively softening the stainless steel.
One could also make each strand from several smaller strands twisted together to reach the gauge you need. Basically litz wire that's really flexible and then just solder the ends together on the mandrel. I would suggest dipping the in a solder pot, then a quick dip in water so the solder heat doesn't flow up the wires and melt the plastic of the mandrel. (Been there done this)
Love the ECM making a barrel think it is very innovative 👍
Thank you!...I appreciate your work!
Nice stuff, would like to see more of this type of work, subbed
Went to college to become a machinist.
Went to TH-cam to become a 3D printer.
Thanks for the tips!
I want to see this on a wet table with CNC controller. Slow mans plasma cutter / engraver. Modifying g-code processor to support amperage based Z-offsets would be pretty straightforward. Engraving plates and logos would be pretty neat. Of course you can still use the old cotton swab and salt water with a stencil, but hey.
Doesn't the useage of NaCl produce chlorine-gas? Thats why i use NaHCO3, also very easy to get and cheap
Yes and no. 2 NaCl + H2O does produce Cl2 (and 2 NaOH, and H2) but because there isn't a membrane it reacts with 2 NaOH to produce NaCl, NaClO and H2O. The production of chlorine using salt is known as the chloralkali process and it's how the world gets most of it's chlorine gas. The membrane used is not easy to come by and it isn't easily done by an amature. If it were, I would be rich. I live next to a giant pile of salt (about 4.5 billion tons) that anyone can take.
Why didn't I can this be 4 ?
R u a scientist or ? A teacher or? Interesting!
Never a dull moment
Looking to make other mandrels for different calibers. Do I bore out 5 thou under bullet diameter and rifle 5 thou over? Also, the 16mm hydraulic pipe, what’s the largest caliber that can be loaded safely before it blows the barrel up? Working on my own gun design using 1 inch square tubing for a breach face so not worried about that so much
That's the basic idea, but note that rifling depth varies by caliber. .22 only has like 2-3 thou deep grooves.
I have a calculator in the project for determining chamber pressure, I'll have to do a video on how it works sometime.. but it's in the Calculators directory.
@@Liberator12k I really want to make it in 357 so I can legally deer hunt here in Indiana
Great, another project added to the list. Lol. I was gonna just use an already rifled 9mm barrel for the semi auto 9mm home build I want to try, but now theres this..
your guns are awesome. I'm working on a shotgun build series
Have you tried any slotting using this method yet? What about square or shapes with corners such as hexagonal?
Could you please explain how the wire's are connected/arranged on your rifling system?
Ho Lee Chit, that's friggin' amazing.
@@Liberator12k Good to see you wearing gloves. Any one working with metals that are in an ionized form needs to use protection. I think the aluminum and lead poisoning I got 10 years ago was from replicating Tesla's high frequency current patents. If any of you work with these sorts of things and start to have crazy symptoms look into metal poisoning. Good work laying this out. And if you haven't already, putting it into a pdf form and sharing a torrent and spreading the info would be great before the judeo-masonic ruling class impairs our access to such procedures (why reinvent the wheel right?) I'd also consider a well ventilated space for these processes. I know some types of steel have toxic elements in them to prevent rust. SS 316 has chromium IIRC.
and what is it like to use the rifling button?
Hi, What constant flow of current (volts) do you need from the start of the process until it ends?
And, How long does the whole process take until the barrel is ready?
Greetings from Costa Rica👍🏿
Hi Caleb. It depends, mostly on your power supply's max. Most of the cheap Chinese lab supplies max out at 5a.
Otherwise, You'll generally get a better surface finish with lower amperage.
TL:DR; 5a
@@Liberator12k I really appreciate your help, thanks bro👍🏿
Another AvE fan, I see!
i believe all men that watch AvE are similar
I couldn't agree more!!!
just fucking excellent science.
same for the documentation
brain food - good stuff!
I wonder if things work as well with ECM of a longer barrel? I wondering if you can do the same with a stainless steel tube?
If the copper wires are insulated with that white stuff then how they managed to cut through?
Why use bottom fed water supply?
what's that wonderful stuff at 0:23 ? thanks
So you essentially print a sleeve for copper wire to sit in, then hook it up to a battery and etch your desired rifling in? Cool!
how long can the barrel be made?
This os savage! I love it!
White is the barrel? Dom tubing?
@@Liberator12k thanks for the reply.
this is what is used for the fgc-9
God this aged so well
Very interesting. Are there any issues with hydrogen embrittlement from electrolyzed water?
Good luck!
You can make Thermite with all that iron oxide
This man crawled so that others could run.
Does anyone have the file for this setup? I checked the Fosscad master library but it is missing.
@@Liberator12k ahhh ok thanks for that can I have the link to your repo then. Keep up the great work. I used to have it but I somehow lost it. All I need would be the actual rifling mandrel not the other stuff I have a rig for that.
you are awesome!!
Hi, I'm your fan. I also design a weapon (such a hobby). I was wondering how easy it was to make the barrel thread, this method is great but I have come up with something better. You can print bushings with threaded grooves, push them into the barrel and pour acid so that the grooves are etched. What do you think about this?
I trying with acid, I have a lot of acid to digest PCB plates, may be useful for this purpose.
You might be able to produce quite complex shapes using 3D printed molds covered in copper leaf. You would need to figure out a mechanism, preferably also printed, for lowering the mold onto the work while running a steady flow of fresh electrolyte between them, but that is not that hard to design. I'm thinking bolts with locking lugs, bolt carriers, trunnions etc.(edit) I looked it up and my idea with molds was unnecessarily complicated. People are already modifying their 3D printers into electrochemical CNC machines. I suppose you will not find it on TH-cam, but the first ECM'd AR18 probably already exists.
Wouldn't this be easier to use to create polygonal rifling?
The whole idea of a 3D printed "mandrel" is that you could make the twist any way you like and as many grooves you like. Is you were really twisted, one could model a variable twist rate in a rifle barrel.
whaere can i get the mandrels?
Why do I recognize song?
I'm curious, is this an exercise in using a different process for sake of learning? Because to an outside observer, this seems like an overcomplicated and less precise approach than button rifling.
Brawndo has electrolytes...
not enough info,
Couldnt you wrap a copper electrode with string or wire, paint liberally, remove string after it dries. boom, there is your electrode. Or if you wanted more consistent water flow and crisp rifling you could coat the inner barrel, scrape off your pattern with a simple homeade tool, then run loosly braded wire for the electrode and circulate water in a closed loop through barrel. You got me thinking so I thought I would return the favor ;) nice work. Ameerricaa, f*ck yeeaahhhh!
La resistance! Or some sh*t hah yeah noticed that after, I figured you further developed the idea. Since yesterday I think I like the idea of a small rigid tube with a hole on the side of the end, flexible dremal shaft inside attached to a tiny flat tippid diamond or carbide mill bit, coming out at 10-15°. Pulling or pushing the shaft to adjust the depth. This assembly would be Ridgid, and the barrel would be fed with a simple spiral cam jig. Coolant fed threw the tube for long barrels or whatever. I was able to get the o.d. of the drill assembly down to around .2 so it will be capable of every caliber, which is all I got so far. I'm impatient I can't wait for santa clause and his little electrons to rifle my barrel lol. I really do like the idea though
Chain Gun.
Way too much noise, way too loud!
More 3d printed garbage.
Its fuk'n brilliant brother.
you are awesome!!