such a sick video! Loved the little laser cut wood explanation. Also, the shoulder bolt setup is genius -- always wondered the best way to build in extra strength when packaging doesn't allow for a double shear setup on the cantilever. Great info all around! EDIT: question: wouldn't lathing in snapring seats at 8:40 significantly weaken that rod at two critical points? Why not use collars instead?
Since you machined the pivot bases you should have made the pivot pins integral. Shoulder bolts are the easy button for a reason. Anyway, loctite those shoulder bolts.
I'd like to see how well those bellcrank bolts hold up over time. I wonder if you considered the possible need for a grease fitting to add a little more wear resistance in the bell rank pivot point, or is the material you choose of sufficient quality to resist extensive wear over time? Edit - after reading more comments it seems that at least one other is wondering about lubrication of the bellcrank pivot. Maybe we are both over thinking the issue. 😅
Curious how the drill bushings will wear over time. Given the low surface speed (?) of the bell crank, I'm not sure that even bronze parts would wear as intended. Doesn't it need some minimum surface speed to self-lubricate? Will the materials you chose gall at all? What about greasing it, or using a sealed bearing of some type?
did you fabricate the bellcrank bushing/pivot point yourself or can you buy them? I've been looking all over for exactly what you're using there for my OBS build. Any tips on getting ahold of some of those would be greatly appreciated! Cheers from Canada! Your build is inspiring me to get even more in depth with my build. started out as an LS swap and lowering kit and now ive got my frame cut in half for a custom back half with a torque arm setup! Definetly would like to add pushrod suspension as well!
Mine started the same way and here we are, lol. Yes I did make all of my cantilever parts, my best advice would be to way over build it the first time. once you have some testing on your parts you can always make it thinner or smaller. but having a catastrophic failure puts you back to square 1. Material selection is a big part in building things yourself. I used cold roll 1018 and 4140 prehard on all my suspension parts. McMaster-Carr is a great resource when building things like this.
@@designbuilddrive yeah man thats been my build philosophy so far! I would have liked to do a vette subframe like yours but had to settle on a crown vic front subframe. I kept most of my stock front rails but i boxed them and then tied into my custom rails just behind the cab. custom x brace that ties into the trans mount and then a beefed up torque arm rear setup. I just opted to go that route since theyre fairly simple to make and they bring all the stress into the center of the frame where the strengh is. ive got my LS set back over a foot from factory with a custom firewall to make room for an 8-1 header! cant wait to fire it up in the next few months lol
Very interesting info on a topic not alot of people make videos about. Do you think this style would be good on a long travel no prep front suspension? As an alternative to high dollar long travel canister struts.
I just changed my mustang II coil spring to dual adjustable coil over. Re angled the ball joint cups 30°. Gained almost 2 inches travel in the arms. Got 5" total extension with the current coil overs. But any taller id need to do something like this and lay it over parallel with the rails. Hopefully its enough haha. Can't wait for future videos
The music ..... Tone down the music. I am interested, I want to watch this video. But after every explanation, there is an explosion of overly powerful music. Good luck with your project
I’m going to be at the shootout along with @shifttrashmedia. It will be my second time there and look forward to seeing this truck there! You’re doing a great job!
I’m calling it now! The next guy to have a prestigious chassis shop!
Wish there was someone like this local to me who had the knowledge. I would love to mentor under someone with half of your ability and skill.
Your design skills are impressive. You're going to go far, kid.
best of luck on the build, and with the competition
This thing is wild, awesome that you’re literally making most of the parts yourself
Cool engineering project.
Nice job.
Just found your video ,impressive I'll be watching for the next one.
Make those bell crank bearings and sell them. I would buy 4 🎉
That's so freaking cool!
Awesome engineering. I just wish I was smarter to understand this. I am going to have to watch it several more times.
Awesome work!
Bravo. Quality engineering design, execution and explanation.
This is an awesome build series, how do you not have a million views!!
Maybe the next one
such a sick video! Loved the little laser cut wood explanation. Also, the shoulder bolt setup is genius -- always wondered the best way to build in extra strength when packaging doesn't allow for a double shear setup on the cantilever. Great info all around!
EDIT: question: wouldn't lathing in snapring seats at 8:40 significantly weaken that rod at two critical points? Why not use collars instead?
So freakin cool! Thanks for the models, making things easy to understand and not being a jerk. Super excited to see what you do!
Since you machined the pivot bases you should have made the pivot pins integral. Shoulder bolts are the easy button for a reason. Anyway, loctite those shoulder bolts.
I'd like to see how well those bellcrank bolts hold up over time. I wonder if you considered the possible need for a grease fitting to add a little more wear resistance in the bell rank pivot point, or is the material you choose of sufficient quality to resist extensive wear over time? Edit - after reading more comments it seems that at least one other is wondering about lubrication of the bellcrank pivot. Maybe we are both over thinking the issue. 😅
I did get grease zerks installed and they have been greased. New video coming in a few days. Things are working well!
Love the model to explain things
Curious how the drill bushings will wear over time. Given the low surface speed (?) of the bell crank, I'm not sure that even bronze parts would wear as intended. Doesn't it need some minimum surface speed to self-lubricate? Will the materials you chose gall at all? What about greasing it, or using a sealed bearing of some type?
Nice work! Not worried about the shoulder bolts being "single shear" ?
Im not super worried but it is a thing Ill be watching when testing. According to the math is about a 5X safety factor.
Hi, I wanna learn this what should I do?
What coilovers did you use?
Sweet build, do you have a video on the math you used figured out the ball crank ratio on the front suspension?
I do not but I might make one if people want to see it.
it's the skills that pay the bills . . . . . . I'm subscribed now - first time viewer
great work , great engineering , are you interested in a project 1969 corvette convertible 350 ci 4 speed A/C , both tops owned for 43 years
did you fabricate the bellcrank bushing/pivot point yourself or can you buy them? I've been looking all over for exactly what you're using there for my OBS build. Any tips on getting ahold of some of those would be greatly appreciated! Cheers from Canada! Your build is inspiring me to get even more in depth with my build. started out as an LS swap and lowering kit and now ive got my frame cut in half for a custom back half with a torque arm setup! Definetly would like to add pushrod suspension as well!
Mine started the same way and here we are, lol. Yes I did make all of my cantilever parts, my best advice would be to way over build it the first time. once you have some testing on your parts you can always make it thinner or smaller. but having a catastrophic failure puts you back to square 1. Material selection is a big part in building things yourself. I used cold roll 1018 and 4140 prehard on all my suspension parts. McMaster-Carr is a great resource when building things like this.
@@designbuilddrive yeah man thats been my build philosophy so far! I would have liked to do a vette subframe like yours but had to settle on a crown vic front subframe. I kept most of my stock front rails but i boxed them and then tied into my custom rails just behind the cab. custom x brace that ties into the trans mount and then a beefed up torque arm rear setup. I just opted to go that route since theyre fairly simple to make and they bring all the stress into the center of the frame where the strengh is. ive got my LS set back over a foot from factory with a custom firewall to make room for an 8-1 header! cant wait to fire it up in the next few months lol
Sick bro!
Very interesting info on a topic not alot of people make videos about. Do you think this style would be good on a long travel no prep front suspension? As an alternative to high dollar long travel canister struts.
If it's set up correctly, it definitely can be.
I just changed my mustang II coil spring to dual adjustable coil over. Re angled the ball joint cups 30°. Gained almost 2 inches travel in the arms. Got 5" total extension with the current coil overs. But any taller id need to do something like this and lay it over parallel with the rails. Hopefully its enough haha. Can't wait for future videos
I think your design is cool but some way to get lubrication into your pivots will give your components a longer life span.
I put grease zerks in the bell crank before final assembly.
Make me a set of bell cranks
Very niiice
sickkkkkkk
Alot more weight.
800hp 1966 Chevy C10 Build Update! Pt. 2 | TheRJ66
th-cam.com/video/6t434zdVvnE/w-d-xo.html
The music ..... Tone down the music. I am interested, I want to watch this video. But after every explanation, there is an explosion of overly powerful music. Good luck with your project
I’m going to be at the shootout along with @shifttrashmedia. It will be my second time there and look forward to seeing this truck there! You’re doing a great job!