Real 3D - 3D printing with non planar slicing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2019
- Chuck tries out Real 3D - 3D printing with non planar slicing by printing a file from Michael Laws of Teaching Tech TH-cam Channel. Non Planer 3D printing is like 3D carving on a CNC. The hotend nozzle follows the contour of a 3D Print and makes a smooth top surface. It takes some custom slicer setup but fortunately their is a GCode file to print and bypass most of that. Chuck shows you that file and how to print it on an Creality Ender 3.
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Teaching Tech Non-Planar Video: • Achieve true 3D printi...
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Hi Chuck, Thanks very the very generous credit. I would like to extend that acknowledge to Daniel Ahlers, the creator of the modded Slic3r. I've fixed the gcode file to have the correct wait for target temp to be reached at the start. So glad to see you gave it a shot and I agree it's memorising to watch. Michael
Haha...now I’ll get a bunch of comments telling me it prints fine, I don’t need to preheat.
Thanks for sharing and the update.
It doesn't take much to modify the gcode by pasting in your start/end code from your slicer. I have to do this when I use Marlin's linear advance generator. I have 3 nozzle tip divots in my bed from their end code crashing into the bed when the steppers disable. Live & learn.
Memorising? I'm sure you meant mesmerizing...
The airfoil example really shows where this technique can shine, much more than this proof of concept model, cant wait to see what people do with this.
@@dlonrazurc Micheal's a fellow Aussie. We speak/spell English, not American English :)
Would be an interesting Cura plugin.
Nice work. Good job crediting Michael as strongly as you did too.
I saw this videofrom Michael earlier today. This could easily be the next (r)evolution in 3-D-printing. The result look sooo cool! And my respect to you Chuck for sharing this the way you did. That is how you spell fairness, there at the end of your video!
Big respect to chuck and Michael on this one-I saw both videos but never commented on michael's one on this occasion. I love how it has taken this long for people to suddenly realise that they are only printing two dimensional slices one at a time to make a three-dimensional object lol - as a machinist by trade I can wholeheartedly say there is nothing dark and mystical with regard to this, and/or running a machine using G-code! When I learned how to program CNC machines there were no add-ons to CAD software, we literally had to plot every single movement the machine made and quite often we would be making movements in several directions at once-People today really don't know how easy they have it where they can just draw an item in fusion or solid works then click a button and the computer will spit out an STL or a G code file so they can't print or machine something (depending on what machine they are using obviously). I can remember spending sometimes weeks programming a machine in G code to do everything from start the spindle to even measure the component I had just made in some cases-nowadays things are so easy by comparison! On that note I don't mean to put a dampener on things but this technique really does not fascinate me in anyway because those of us in the printing community with a CNC background will have seen this in reverse many times in the past.That's not to say it's not a good thing, just that it's more of a gimmick than anything else with regard to 3-D printing especially at the moment-Maybe when the developers get hold of the concept of it which I think they would have anyway regardless of Michael's video, I think you will find this method of laying top layers or outer skins to printed parts will be just as normal as any other 3-D printing technique. Again hats off to chuck for acknowledging the work of others👍
Just finishing off this test model on my Ender 3 and works perfect. What a revolution! Also, Ender 3 stock shroud works fine for clearance, no need to remove it. Thanks Chep!
Great feedback on the shroud.
essential for car body parts printing
Nice to see the two of you guys working like this. Whenever it comes up, I always recommend TT & Chep to folk struggling with 3D printing issues - fair to say I've learned all the useful stuff I now know on this topic from you two chaps.
Gus' makers muse is good too. And Make Anything channel CNC kitchen rocks as well
Thanks for sharing this and giving the credit to Teaching Tech. I watched that video and was dismayed by all of the steps Michael had to go through to get it to work. An interesting concept, but not ready for prime time. Hopefully the slicer providers will work with this and the printer manufacturers to make it happen
this is how i iamgined 3d printing would be before i started learning about what was available through youtube and stuff. so glad its finally becoming a reality
Yes Michael put in a lot of time on that technique. Hopefully this will be a future plug-in for 3-D slicing software. I can imagine Josef Prusa possibly working on it now :-)
Thank you, you're a real gentlemen for giving credit to a fellow youtuber.
I do believe that the non planar would end up as a much stronger print in the end.
Man I follow both channels on TH-cam and if it was for y'all I probably wouldn't be 3d printing. The knowledge you two put out is phenomenal. I followed Teaching Tech for the setup and upgrading of my Ender 3. Chep for the tweaks in Cura. I'm absolutely blown away by the quality of the prints. I cosplay and the added quality in my prints has made that 1000x easier. Thanks guys. Keep up the awesome work.
Nice work Chuck. Kudos for giving credit to Teaching Tech. Should more of it around the web.
It's funny Chuck asking people to visit Michael's channel, as if both channels' subscribers weren't the same people. TH-cam's algorithm makes sure when you watch one 3d printing video that's all you get recommended for the rest of you life! 😂😂😂
And this is what I like in the 3D printing community! Great Video Chep, and thank you Michael for this awesome technique!
My guessing is a delta could possibly do this better as it could rotate the head so the nozzle was pointing at a tangent to the workpiece or even cover more of an object like a ball as it bent the (from verticle) nozzle so it could start layering further down the side. Teaching Tech really did a great job jumping in there feet first. Great channel for beginners to professionals.
That is really cool! It's great to see some experimental advancements with 3D printing.
You earned my subscription with your commentary, video and your generous credit.
Thanks for making this.
Thanks for the sub.
Great support guys. Love both channels. Nice work.
this is great stuff Chep! i've been pleasantly surprised how informative your videos are. thanks dude!
You're very kind, following both of you
I saw that video yesterday, and now yours! Hope this method can become easy and supported by default in cura inserting the dimensions of the hot end etc...
Great idea! Thanks for sharing it - I hope to try this soon.
That is so cool... Love this 3D printing world! 🤗
CHEP, very nice. Credit where credit is due. I like that. Keep up the good work.
The perfect crossover we were waiting for!
Perfect! I was just watching Michaels one
Good video! I saw Michael's the other night and was impressed. I usually am with that guy. Anyhow, I think you have inspired me to print this sucker. Keep 'em coming. I always look forward to another CHEP video on Friday.
Demonstrations like this prove that we are still on the very edge of what additive manufacturing can do.
i really hope this inspires the people who design slicers to think more outside the box... there is SOOOO much untapped possibility with our printers. This could be just the beginning :) My intuition tells me that this method will likely help "some" prints become stronger, and obviously it makes new things possible. One place this technique will likely strengthen parts is when there are slants or any circular shapes. A test piece = a handle with finger grooves. One old school. One nonplanar.
Thanks so much.....watched both videos...its such a cool new technique
This solution could be perfect for 3d printing of moulds for example wing moulds... Cool!
That exactly what I'm thinking
It would be incredible if it were an option in a program like cura. So many times I have to print something on an angle to get it to look smooth and not like a topographical map.
THATS MESMERISING!
non planer ironing would be awesome
yeah man thats what i was thinkin. it'd be a bit of a dick with tiny spikes coming off the top of the print like with a castle, but for any curved surface it would be neat. i kinda want a round nozzle now.
Excellent coverage of a promising technique. Well done and thank you :) Thought it quite swell of you to give a shout out to Michael for his work/video/files.
very sport attitude of you.
top bloke new sub here in UK
I have tried this! It was a bit of a pain to get the Slic3r installed. (Only works on linux) But it works. There are some settings in Slic3r that are missing from the latest version of PrusaSlicer, but it is what it is. Example, there is no way to determine bridge extrusion direction, My first attempt did bridging 90 degrees from the direction I had intended for the model I was making...fins for Model Rockets. I wanted the smoother surface. Printing them vertically causes print problems as they are rather thin.
That's really, really interesting!!! 😃
It's hard to compare two prints of two different colors. The color of the filament can drastically change the overall look of a piece. White is much harder to see layer lines than black. I understand you were comparing the actual feel of the piece and did say it's a different look but I still think it would be more beneficial when comparing two prints to have the same color on each.
I agree. But that is what you can go and do for yourself now, because he shared the links.
Agreed, I was going to comment about that too but thought it best to see if any one else has.
I have been following Michael's video for this and I have been trying to get Ubuntu installed on my virtual machine on my windows PC, I have spent hours on it but I have not been able to get the install to complete. This non planer printing is sooo cool and I will not give up till I get the software working. I have a project that non planer is perfect for. Thanks for sharing the test print, I have not done it yet.
Use hyper v works great for ubuntu
@@aellis6692 Thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.
Wow that is cool
A 3-axis 3D printer with rotary table and long tilting hotend might do the job well.
good technik..
Weird I ran the GCODE right in my CR-10S (uploaded to OctoPrint) and it had the nozzle set to 195 and bed to 60. Worked like a charm though. I left my nozzle fan on which was set pretty high (its adjustable with screws) and was able to give it some cooling (manually)
Man, I can't wait untill we get suuuper smooth angled surfaces.
A little solution to a problem with hitting. For example, if you have a BLTouch, then have the print pause at a certain height and stow the BLTouch away
Was thinking you could mount the BLtouch on a slider that is spring loaded with a latch that is electronically controlled to release the tension (therefore popping the BLTouch further up the hotend mounting plate). Could do the same for Hero Me fan duct?
@@EvilWiffles MIght make it inaccurate thought.
You certainly had a flow problem because TT uses an Ultimaker with 2.85 filament while you use 1.75 on the Ender3, the parameters are different and I think that's where the problem comes from. Test, you'll see it will be even smoother :) Thanks for the video :) (A french TH-camr :p)
It looks to me like the nonplanar printing is better for specific applications done quickly like doing airfoils, propellers or some very lightly contoured surfaces like a model car hood or top. I wonder if anyone has been working on designing air ducts that are capable of adequate part cooling for nonplanar printing without being in the way.
I'd be curious to do some strength testing on non planer prints and see how it stacks up.
Use a small desk fan to cooling the filament while printing. Might help a bit.
Chep, I have a feeling non-planar 3d printing gives a tougher print. any chance you can test that? The way I see it is layer separation will become a less of an issue. It will mean new g-code though...
Need cnc kitchen to do a test!
Hey CHEP, whats that white and grey box next to your ender 3. It has screen, knobs, etc...thx
Spectrum analyzer
Is this still a thing? Or it's completely abandoned?
We should turn our printers into a 4 axis CNC machine. Just for fun.
Go for it.
What settings do you use on ender 3 when you’re printing with ABS? I’m gonna print ABS this week for the first time and don’t know what settings to use.
Minion'_ ' it is going to warp you need a heated closed environment for abs, abs is also toxic while printing , you need to ventilate or leave the room.
man this non-planar stuff is buzzing.. but theres videos from like 2012/2014 doing it.. lol. crazy how things catch on and can go viral.
because something is not new doesn't mean it isn't good. i mean, i began 3d printing in 2017, and i wouldn't have seen any video from 2014 about that. so without this video here, i wouldn't know it exist at all. I'm glad to have seen it :)
Why print the 0.12 in white? That's a hard color to image compared to black which shows imperfections readily. The contoured pri t in black gives the look of vacuum forming or mesh stretched over a form and brushed w/ resin. Kinda cool.
Longer nozzles will be needed for clearance on STLs with higher Z features, but this process could definitely be used for terrain.
When I print black I get comments it’s hard to see. WhenI print white I’m told it’s too light. When I print red it’s try a different shade of red.
There is no perfect color apparently.
I chose white because it is my smoothest FilamentFriday Filament.
@@FilamentFriday I just wish it had been the same color for both.
id suggest green, as the human eye can discern more shades of green than other colors. (unless you're color blind of course.)
When you ran this through the Slicer, can you add "ironing" to the slicer? I didn't understand if you had tried it or not.
I cant add anything to a pre-sliced gcode file. So no it wasn’t used.
Can this be done on stock ender by removing the shroud ?
Somebody in the comments tried and got it to work.
That is a very pointy nozzle you're using for this. The non lpanar printing method doesn't work well with flat nozzles like the e3d. Does someone have a link to the super pointy nozzle used in this video? Thank you very much.
It’s for Creality printers and link is in the description.
Ha ha I did this a few days ago I actually set it up in Linux and it worked first time; shocked. Unfortunately my printer is a delta so couldn’t use the code. Compiling was actually not too bad.
Hi Chuck. Interesting name Hellebuyck. Do you have ancestors in the Netherlands? And primarily from the Limburg region?
What if you add a rotational axis on the hot end bracket so the nozzle can rotate.
that sounds awfully complicated, all the added mass would have to be displaced as well. It´s way better to just make a special nozzle with generous angles and cooling
That will cost months of work before it can work properly. But it will work (NASA use rotating robot arm as a printer)
what about ender 3 stock metal fan, do i need to take it off or it should be fine when i run that G-code? :/
I didn’t try but it might clear the print.
It clears it fine
CHEP, when are you going to do a video on the ARTILLERY SIDEWINDER X1. The whole world is talking about it.
ADELOWO OYEDIRAN why would you want the same content here then?
Try the bency already!!
The printing Michael did was on a lower resolution. I'm sure the results will be much better if he did another one in the same resolution you did.
:) cool
How long did Michael’s gcode take to print?
I don’t remember. About 2-3 hours. I paused and filmed and forgot.
CHEP ok. Understand. Thanks
Chep, a few weeks ago, my hot end is only heating up to 130 degrees when I set it to 200 degrees. I took a look at the hot end and I can’t see any damage to any wiring. Do you have any suggestions to what I can do to fix that?
Joseph Packowski if you haven’t already, I would the heater cartridge and make sure the screw holding it in, is tight. Mine has come loose before and it can give you heating issues. It can even cause fire if you don’t catch it and if your machine doesn’t have the ability to detect the problem.
Have you verified it with a temperature gauge?
What NGneer and CHEP said. Plus you could have a bad thermistor. You can buy a pack of 10 (5 heat cartridges and 5 thermistors) for around $13 on Amazon. That's more than you will need for a long time but they are cheap and it is good to have a backup.
@@frogmandave1 Great suggestion, I would also suggest getting the 50W instead of the 40. I replaced mine on the Ender 5 and was impressed with how much better the wiring seemed to be.
How about using a Delta printer so you can rotate the head.
I fiddled with that on an Anycubic Predator and it didn’t want to work. The effector and the arms were designed to keep the print head level at any point in the print space, and trying to make it not do that nearly broke the thing.
Wait.... which channel am I on? This seems familiar. :)
you miss the point of the nan planer printing it makes the print stronger.
It would be a problem with a BL-touch.
I tried to download your magic 0.12 thing on windows but it would not open the file can you pls fix that if you do thank you a lot
I use cura btw
Are you talking about his cura profile?
matt anderson yes
As if 3d printing couldn't get anymore interesting!
Yes please!
Model airplane wings
Ooh yes good idea
it is an interesting start but still in it's infancy, hope to try it soon as it doesnt take 7 print nerds and a gaggle of regular nerds(like me) to set up lol
👍
I wonder what the toughness looks like? It should be better.
💕👍
When i first heard about 3d-printing, that whould be exactly what i imagined in my head - the printer head moving in all axes printing in 3d. But then i was kinda dissapointed to find out how they actually work :D But could one actually tweak those four top layers quality up? Like line width or something to make it even smoother?
Speaking of setting preheat in the Gcode, I have my preheat turned off in the slicer also & see no point in having that set. It limits you to using those heat settings with that gcode. If you decide to print that same part with a different type of plastic or different heat settings you have to generate a different gcode. I just simply set the hotend and heatbed to the desired temperature just prior to printing. I have been doing this for years & has worked great for me.
The depth of the "3D" print is limited to the extended extruder nozzel length before the extruder nozzel housing hits the print.
I would really like to see this make an impeller and maybe even have a longer printer nozzle to increase the depths it can layer like this. Now I'm wondering if there are 3d printers with screw type extruders.
Cooling fan ducts don't like this technique 😂
Doesn't every CNC table do this very thing??
No. CNC takes away material, 3D Printer add it.
@@FilamentFriday He probably means 2.5D on CNC machines with conical router bits. It's exactly the same thing only one is removing material and the other one adding.
Dont know if it will reach you or someone that can help. I want to buy my first 3d printing. So don't want to spend a bunch of money at my first 3d printer. Therefore if someone could help me choose one in range 200/300$ it would be nice. Thanks
I recommend the Ender 3. Links in description.
I would recommend the Anycubic I3 Mega, reliable, easy to use and fair price
anycubic i3 mega-s all the way.
And if you want ender 3 then the Pro-Version.
Both the ender 3 pro and the i3 mega-s are Prusa clones.
The difference between i3 mega-s and i3 mega is the better feeder and you can use flexible filament way better.
@@ElNadaInLada JUST RECEIVED MY I3 MEGA S ;) what 3d program should i use? easY?
Curious, What made you choose $299 Mega over $179 Ender 3?
3D Ironing?
th-cam.com/video/gh5wC4Ti95s/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday Yeah, but ironing in 3D, like the print nozzle was moving here (moving in Z also). Follow the contour of the part, but in ironing mode.
With a delta, you could even tip the print head to iron it perpendicular to the surface.
Help Set it up
To bad it will not become a reality since a long time because this thing is patented by the university of Hamburg since 2018 and also by autodesk and slicer… :/
seems weird you could patent something this simple.
Wait, isn't slic3r open source? Can't the feature just get forked into another open source project?
I have never really looked into the legal side of open source licensing, though.
What the hack we can done in Cuba to get this same thing without using Slic3r, Even in Windows.
I would like to say it here THIS IS NOT "REAL" 3D Printing. 3d printing I think is perfectly accurate to what we have now. when you make a print its 1 layer. With 3d we add another dimension to regular "printing". This is just giving a clean surface to the top of a print that is still very... printed in its feel and look. And while it will be improved upon, is so incredibly limited. you still need the entire base before putting on that surface. until we can actually print with that method without the regular to put down a base, its not really all that great, and there a ton better ways to make a better surface on a print like this
Tell me a better way.
@@chibiebil Didn't say I had a better way. I said its not what people claim it to be yet. Chill out
@@dragoro3033 umm... makes no sense, ok.
@@chibiebil my whole point was that people seem to be making this a bigger deal than it really is at this point. At THIS point. Don't know the future though so I will see
It is much better than what we currently have, for curved shapes (like aerofoils).
I guess it's nice that you gave him a shout out, but I don't really get the point in making this video, teaching techs video does as good of a job if not better at explaining how this process works. Personally I've always felt your videos just barely scratch the surface. For example the "how to get rid of zits or blobs video." you never showed how to get rid of them, just basic knowledge that the majority of us already know about, like hiding where the seam is on the model and doing the random option. Neither really got rid of the problem.
I like both their channels, combined they show alot of new techniques and different things to try. However not all tt subs are subbed here and the other way around. Now people who only subbed here can get a taste for this technique too :)
Schmidt 3D - Interesting as I get 100s of emails/comments every week thanking me for helping them level their bed or achieve their first successful print with my profiles or introduce them to a feature they didn’t know existed.
@@FilamentFriday I'm not doubting that people find your videos informative. I'm just saying that you only cover the bare minimum. I like you're content I just wish it went a bit further.