Thanks for the feedback. I don't really know where to buy stronger magnets, it's not something I look for, but I am quietly confident if you measure the dimensions you'll find replacement magnets online, and they're listed by magnet strength. I'm pretty sure Viper have tyres to suit what you're after, but I could be wrong. Sorry, I just make my own in whatever size I need, so I'm not much help there either.
@@brienduarte1015 yep, good idea. The only reason I don't do it that way, is if I leave a bur on the end of the thread, the screw will end up being a loose fit.
Thanks for the video. I am always interested in more information to make AW cars work better. Do you have the length of the cut screw? I was shocked when I first got my AFX MG+' cars, and thought.... hmmm maybe they would be faster with less weight on the drag strip. So I took out the magnets and it would not run down the track without them. So then you look for weights that will fit and tinker. I don't buy AW cars anymore, they are so unpredictable in quality and performance. I bought several at one time when I first got back in HO slots and then you try to deal with the warranty from AW, in the end they did me a solid after contacting them a few times, and sent me a whole new chassis with tires.
@@JDL_2020 I have pulled the screw out to measure, and the threaded part from the base of the head is 4.6mm long in the one I measured. On AFX Mega G+, you can raise the magnets slight amounts to reduce the magnet traction, so ypu can tune magnet drag versus drive-ability. Thanks for giving feedback on my content. You've actually inspired me to revist these chassis's, as when I was working on these, I didn't have a home track. That situation has now changed.
@@murdervalleyraceway I appreciate you doing that for me. I was looking to get less magnet for the drag track and actually went the other way on my race track. I found my fastest magnet set up for track with multiple high banks (138') and MG+ is.... short chassis, level 52 mags with level 33 stacked on top and Viper silicone tires. Slower but better on my flat turns. I just received 4 S7 chassis from Rooster racing and a OS3 lite controller. Difalco on order. I only use my AW 4 Gear for drag racing now, suck badly on my track. But I have not had much time to work/test lately. A home track is a must, have fun and keep sharing please. Now to find some screws.
@@JDL_2020 you'll be happy to know that your comment on this video caused me to revisit the 4 Gear circuit chassis. I put wuite a few hours into pushing it, to see if I could get a decent track time. Let's just say I went from a 9 second lap, to a 5.4 second lap time by the end of the session. Foam tyres sized appropriately for handling, no magnets other than the standard motor magnets. This particular chassis has an OS3 18 ohm armature in it. I had the original brown out on me a while ago. I'm thinking it's time to switchback to the original.
@@murdervalleyraceway Sadly I have not had much extra time, but I did look at my problem 4 Gear Cluster Gear Shaft rivets. I ended up punching the flare (tightening very little at a time) several rivets that improved the problems. I did cut one rivet out and put in a 5mm screw and had to file it slightly. But I think the gear still floats/warbles around the screw more than I would like, but it held the gear down much better than it was. The rivet I replaced was installed poorly and did not have enough lip to tighten well. I ordered some new C2 silicone tires on the bay for the 4 Gear F/C and TFD's and hope to get them tomorrow. But interested to see how they fit the hubs. With the 4G OEM tires only gripping the outer edges of the tires, it's a very poor design.
Hello, very good videos, a question, could you show how you make foam tires?
I like to run these 4gears with only one traction magnet.Seems to me runs much better!
Going to do the screw update on some of my MT chassis and see how they run 👍🏼 great tutorial, showing detail as to how to do it!!
Thanks Peter.
It's definitely worth the effort and time put in.
Great tutorial to day thank you for your knowledge been sense mid 60’s that l tinkered with HO cars lot has changed thank you 😊
Thanks for the feedback Johnny.
Nice video. Anyone know where to buy stronger traction magnets and the larger better traction rear diameter tires?
Thanks for the feedback.
I don't really know where to buy stronger magnets, it's not something I look for, but I am quietly confident if you measure the dimensions you'll find replacement magnets online, and they're listed by magnet strength. I'm pretty sure Viper have tyres to suit what you're after, but I could be wrong. Sorry, I just make my own in whatever size I need, so I'm not much help there either.
Another phantastic tutorial!!!!!!! Sub# are rising for a reason!!!!!
Funny thing is, by the time I posted the video, I'd dropped to 159...lol.
Thats what you get for posting numbers.
Why not use a shorter screw?
There's no reason a shorter screw couldn't be used, it only needs to be long enough to have a thread the whole way through the top plate.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing! 😁👍🏁🏎
I am with you when i watch Goodwood and the cars are drifting that is what I want to copy with / or with out I like with out Gas on !
great video
Thank you for the feedback.
Take the screw out and cut then measure it. Then you’ll know in the future to cut
@@brienduarte1015 yep, good idea. The only reason I don't do it that way, is if I leave a bur on the end of the thread, the screw will end up being a loose fit.
You were much easier to listen to and understand voice volume in today’s segment ! Your doing a great job presenting 😊
I'm slowly learning how to use the editing app I'm using. And TH-cam itself.
Thanks for the video. I am always interested in more information to make AW cars work better. Do you have the length of the cut screw? I was shocked when I first got my AFX MG+' cars, and thought.... hmmm maybe they would be faster with less weight on the drag strip. So I took out the magnets and it would not run down the track without them. So then you look for weights that will fit and tinker. I don't buy AW cars anymore, they are so unpredictable in quality and performance. I bought several at one time when I first got back in HO slots and then you try to deal with the warranty from AW, in the end they did me a solid after contacting them a few times, and sent me a whole new chassis with tires.
@@JDL_2020 I have pulled the screw out to measure, and the threaded part from the base of the head is 4.6mm long in the one I measured.
On AFX Mega G+, you can raise the magnets slight amounts to reduce the magnet traction, so ypu can tune magnet drag versus drive-ability.
Thanks for giving feedback on my content. You've actually inspired me to revist these chassis's, as when I was working on these, I didn't have a home track. That situation has now changed.
@@murdervalleyraceway I appreciate you doing that for me. I was looking to get less magnet for the drag track and actually went the other way on my race track. I found my fastest magnet set up for track with multiple high banks (138') and MG+ is.... short chassis, level 52 mags with level 33 stacked on top and Viper silicone tires. Slower but better on my flat turns. I just received 4 S7 chassis from Rooster racing and a OS3 lite controller. Difalco on order. I only use my AW 4 Gear for drag racing now, suck badly on my track. But I have not had much time to work/test lately. A home track is a must, have fun and keep sharing please. Now to find some screws.
@@JDL_2020 you'll be happy to know that your comment on this video caused me to revisit the 4 Gear circuit chassis. I put wuite a few hours into pushing it, to see if I could get a decent track time. Let's just say I went from a 9 second lap, to a 5.4 second lap time by the end of the session. Foam tyres sized appropriately for handling, no magnets other than the standard motor magnets. This particular chassis has an OS3 18 ohm armature in it. I had the original brown out on me a while ago. I'm thinking it's time to switchback to the original.
@@murdervalleyraceway Sadly I have not had much extra time, but I did look at my problem 4 Gear Cluster Gear Shaft rivets. I ended up punching the flare (tightening very little at a time) several rivets that improved the problems. I did cut one rivet out and put in a 5mm screw and had to file it slightly. But I think the gear still floats/warbles around the screw more than I would like, but it held the gear down much better than it was. The rivet I replaced was installed poorly and did not have enough lip to tighten well. I ordered some new C2 silicone tires on the bay for the 4 Gear F/C and TFD's and hope to get them tomorrow. But interested to see how they fit the hubs. With the 4G OEM tires only gripping the outer edges of the tires, it's a very poor design.
Does the screw stay tight or will it back out with time?
The screw stays put.
You can put red locktite on the bottom of the screw. A very small amount.
Best 4 gear video that I have seen. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Dave.
I'm looking forward to getting my track build sorted so I can back up my build ethos with track footage and lap times.