You can get the magnets from Amazon UK here: 5mm dia x 2mm magnets: www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-5mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACMMP0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2PWR3U5OOB844&dchild=1&keywords=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+2mm&qid=1603464763&sprefix=magnet+5mm+x+2mm%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-6 5mm dia x 1mm magnets: www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert-5mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACKN4M/ref=sr_1_6?crid=JF86NVXHOBYH&dchild=1&keywords=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+1mm&qid=1603464904&sprefix=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+1mm%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-6 A4 magnetic sheets: www.amazon.co.uk/0-85mm-Plain-Flexible-Magnetic-Sheets/dp/B07D5C1ZT7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1PCOU358JVGIT&dchild=1&keywords=the+magnet+shop+a4+magnetic+sheets&qid=1603465003&sprefix=the+magnet+shop%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-5
@@trolemon I was going to say exactly this. Magnetic sheets that fit the 4litre and 9litre boxes perfectly. Also when I’ve had to deal with their customer service, they have been great. I definitely recommend them
Duncan, my wife said while I was watching this - “Never mind all this modelling stuff, why doesn’t he tell us his skincare routine?!” She was a beauty therapist and always comments that you have some of the best skin on TH-cam.
I looked at GW cases when I began collecting and thought: aye, I can do that myself. So I went and bought a fuckhuge plastic tool box for 20£ and like 2 square meters of foam sheet for 10£ more. Cut the sheet to size and make holes for the minis, and you are set for up to 2000 points to store and transport.
Different needs. Some people don’t want to bother to cut foam to shape. Also, even if the price is higher than a self made case, it provides a good capacity and protection, and it’s easy to find, just go to your local store.
GW carry cases have been bad in like...forever :D. Lots of good competion out there which both better and cheaper. But Duncans solution is a great way to store miniatures, I ordered a few boxes and magnetic sheets.
I like how you say if you’re a youngster you should get adult to do anything involving a knife as if being an adult makes me any safer when wielding a knife.
Depending on the age, yes, it's safer. Adults know common wisdom like cutting away from yourself, wether or not the do. They also have more developed muscles, giving them more control. A knife can never truly be a safe implement, but knowing what your doing and having the physical capacity to do it are great ways to make it safer.
@@yipyipyipi I was joking about the fact that despite the fact that I know how to use a knife correctly I’ve still managed to cut and stab myself multiple times.
@@yipyipyipi Bah i started in this hobby at about 8 and was trusted with both hobby knifes and superglue/plastic glues its purely a case of education rather than hiding things away from kids, plus i am sure most hobby folks will agree that more knife slips happen when cutting away rather than towards your self that is more a case of using too much force rather than a fresh sharp blade
@WinterXL that's funny i never said id cut my self, if you cant handle cutting towards your self with a hobby knife your not paying attention to what your doing i was taught a healthy respect for knifes but that's no excuse for poor advice as a said most accidents are due to applying to much force and or using a blade that isn't sharp enough for the task at hand
Magnets are most effective when they touch the surface they're attracted to. In my experience using super glue, you will often find that magnets peel away from the base over time if they don't sit flush with the bottom of the base. My solution: lay down your metal or magnetic sheet, lay down a piece of parchment paper, snap your magnet on the surface, put a dollop of hot glue over the magnet, place your model base over the top of the magnet. Allow to dry fully and pull off the sheet. Your magnet will be perfectly flush with the surface, and the hot glue provides a better hold on the magnet since it holds the bottom and around the sides of the magnet!
Green stuff works better imo. Make a tiny ball of green stuff and push the magnet into it. Then place down the model and push down slightly until the base touches the table. Lift up the model again then put super glue around where the magnet touched the green stuff and let it dry
What I like about the Really Useful Boxes is they have straight sides. So you can also glue sheets on the sides of the box to attach taller minis that don't fit in the smaller box.
Thanks for sharing Duncan. I hope this doesn't cause a rubber steel shortage though! A couple of tips to add as I've magnetised everything in the last year into these really useful boxes: - a hot glue gun for crafts works well for sticking the magnets to bases and gives the base a little more weight which is great for standing minis on slopes. - 1 a4 sheet on its own without the offcuts should also be enough to cover enough of the base if you put it centrally in the box. As long as you're not putting 25mm minis on the very edge it works well. - You can get self adhesive rubber steel sheets so don't need to worry about the glue. - You can stick a sheet to the underside of lids on the 9L box and hang infantry minis off the ceiling. I use N52 4x2mm neodyniums and a normal 32mm mini hangs fine. - Offcut strips placed on the underside of a lid with spacing serves well for keeping infantry in their units. Really good for tournaments where you can put them back as they die ready for the next game
If you're in the states and looking for something that'll work instead of the hard to find rubber steel, or magnetic receptive sheets, I've found that the most hardware stores will sell "galvanized steel flashing shingles" in 8in x 12in size. These are roofing shingles, but are basically thin steel plates, and hold magnets quite well. This leaves roughly a 1/2 inch gap around the shingle to the walls of the box, but that's fine as it gives a little padding room for shifting. Glue these to the inside of a really useful box and you're set. Plus side is that it holds magnetized miniature bases a lot stronger than rubbersteel does.
This really changed the game for me. I have now made two of these with extra sheets placed on two sidewalls each case for the taller models to go sideways. Really great video, thanks
i've been doing this with the same brand of boxes, except i use sheet metal and hot glue to put the base down. they make larger size boxes, much larger. i actually use the 17L boxes and build a removeable sheet metal shelf halfway through to store my boys.
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Sounds great. Most of the best videos on the subject I've found are in the US, where the available products are completely different. I use isopropyl alcohol but its a bit pricey and not the best.
@@stephenkay3941 - I’m surprised that isopropyl alcohol is pricey. It’s pretty much a standard cleaning product in the computer industry, and is available fairly cheap in quite large containers. Like you, I suspect there are better paint stripping products though.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 Its more expensive than some other cleaning products - its certainly not prohibitively expensive. I picked up 5 litres for £17 - which is fine
Another tip: if you only play skirmish games and such, you can use washers on the bases and glue the round magnets into the box. In this way, you save money (500 ct washers are the same price as getting 100 magnets where I am) and then all your minis can be swapped into the box for whatever you want to take.
I use washers on the minis and the same magnetic sheets as duncan in my storage containers. Works well. DIN 134 M10 washers fit perfectly under citadel bases.
Cheaper than washers are 1p and 2p coins. Those made after 1994 (I think, but please check) have ferrous cores and so will stick to magnetic sheeting. And they’ll double as a base for your mini.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 I live in the USA, so it would be a hassle to get other coins. In addition, even if pennies worked, it is actually a federal crime to use them as bases.
those absurdly expensive plastic crates full of foam are terrible as well, the foam is really poor quality and there way models sit in invites all your spiky sticky out bits being broken off.
@@nativedubz Exactly this. My friend has a GW carrying case and he's had several spiky bitz break off his Plague Marines I painted. Hurts for both of us.
True true and agree with you. I got 3 2nd hand GW army cases for cheap from some local people. I would never buy them new. got one of the big 6 foam sheet ones for $50. The other 2 was another 6 foam sheet and a stubby vehicle box. Bought them for $200 but the guy was also selling his Eldar and Space Wolves along with it. Sold the 2 armies and got my $200 back plus some extra. LOL!
1:57 for that extra space you could put a divider and put things like dice datacards and in a larger 9l box your codexes and pages (I haven't checked sizes yet).
This sheeting looks like a good way to do movement trays too if you're doing anything with ranked units and square bases. Way simpler than sheet steel!
This completely changed how I currently store my models. This was a great idea. I’ve now done this to all my models. Helps having them safely stored and out of the way without risking heavy damage caused by my cat walking around models
"Exactly how I store my minis at home" - Duncan. Wait wait, you have cases upon cases of knights magged to the floor of huge boxes. This needs pictures!
You can also buy ferrous and magnetic vinyl sheets of 62cm by 1/5/10m for larger boxes. I use a combination of those for plastic miniatures. 1 for the box and one for the figure base. Works fine as long as you don't tip the boxes too far. This also a great way of storing your miniatures in a cupboard for example.
Duncan turning the box upside down with the models in it gives the same feeling as the DQ employee turning your Blizzard upside down. Brief panic followed by awe at how well it stays in place.
Rubber steel sheeting is hard to find so here's an easy alternative. Galvanized steel flashing 5" x 7" (make sure it's not aluminum), then attach to the plastic box with Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. Because the flashing is so thin, you don't need to trim the pieces, so layer them. Because it's steel, the magnets work great.
Dear Duncan. I have a friend who has gotten into warhammer and he almost instantly fell in love with the tau. Because he doesn't know how to paint a mini, I thought I would paint him a squad to get his army started, but I don't know how to paint tau armor. Any advice?
If you get a nice oil wash, you can do some really great pin washes that are a lot easier than acryllic washes due to capilary action. That being said, for tabletop standard, colour, shade, drybrush, metallics is more than good enough.
Thanks for the safety points. You are a very mature and considerate person! I have been doing this for a while and use flat sheet metal for air ducts taped to the bottom with carpet double sided tape. I will try the sheets you recommend as well. Note that these ceramic magnets are really strong except for forces along their flats, meaning that your miniatures can slide and have impact damage if you drop the case. Super good idea for storing and transporting. Thanks again Duncan!
Pro tip: You can stick a metal sheet on the wall of the bankers box so that your miniatures that are slightly too tall for the box such as banner bearers can be placed sideways and still fit in the same box as their squad. I've been doing a similar system for years now. I use metal duct work sheeting for the metal plate. I use double-sided tape to secure it in place. I glue the magnets using epoxy glue, not super glue. I find the magnets with super glue fall off, too often.
Those boxes also fit fairly exactly into the big "bag for life" type shopping bags we have in the UK, which makes transporting the cases to and from games nights really easy!
This is exactly the same method I use, and I advocate for it everywhere. It's great, especially if you have fragile fighters with lots of bits that stick out. Another good use for offcuts is putting them on the sides of the box - very tall miniatures (Enlightened on Disk) or very short ones you might not always need (Brimstone Horrors) are great to put there, without needing taller boxes or using up space on the bottom.
I´ve always used the foam cases, but this is really handy. I´ll try this with my Song of Ice and Fire dudes. Could also work really well with the regiment plates. You could cut round pieces so they fit more securely onto them aswell.
I was first shown the really useful box range by someone I used to game with. Because the lids are flat however, they were really useful as model trays for units not on the table without having to hold a heavier box; it's probably a good idea to try and magnetize them as well if you can do it in such a way that it doesn't interfere with stacking.
Such a simple solution, think I'll have to invest to keep those painted models that aren't on display nice and safe next to the display instead of in old ragged boxes. Thanks Duncan, you legend!
Love this video! I use an Ikea Kvissle, which I find perfect for storing and showcasing my minis, but it's too big and heavy to carry around to my friends' place to play. Will definitely build a carrying case like this one. Also loved the fact that you thought of the kids entering the hobby on several steps; most channels forget it's not just us adults in the hobby. Thank you Duncan!
This is good timing! Thank you! Just last week I was searching for magnetic storage boxes for some larger models such as a Drukhari Raider and came across a similar video, but they used thin steel sheets (rigid, harder, and more dangerous to cut). The A4 magnetic sheets you use seem to be easier to use. So far I've been using cake tins, but I can't find any big enough to store tall models. Another commenter suggested hot glue for a flush connection between the magnet and the sheet - if you don't have a hot glue gun, you can use blu-tac and super glue. Start with a small mound of blu-tac that you press the magnet into against a flat table surface (to make the magnet flush with it), glue the magnet into the blu-tac, then coat the whole blu-tac and magnet mound with super glue, making sure to go round the edges, and ideally avoid the magnet surface or just wipe it off after. It's worked very well for me.
Was genuinely surprised and pleased to find these exact plastic tubs - same brand and dimensions, from a store in Australia - it's rare we have the same stuff available here! - I have just ordered a few of them to do exactly this!
2:40 Can i recommend instead putting the off cut on the bottom, then the full piece on top? That way you can just mark down using the full piece as a guide?
You will get that the full piece is just a bit too long if you do it that way. It won’t fit together in the space. The variable won’t be much but if you aim for super flush like this it’ll make a difference.
@@kid0krewgaming326 possibly, but I didn't have the issue when I did that with mine. With the width of a scalpel and the corners are rounded (not a sharp 90 degree angle), there's enough wiggle room that the difference is negligible. Likely depends on the box. Although I was a dumb ass and put the lid back on with the superglue still wet. because I was tired and going to bed. -_-
Great video, I’ve been meaning to get into a 40k club after covid is gone and this is gonna help. This case also seems a lot more reliable than a foam one.
Just put together my first 2 carry cases. Some feedback....... 1) The Really Useful Box boxes are great. Sturdily built and nicely priced. The 4 litre version is ideal for most troop-type models, larger characters might need a deeper box for the extra headroom. 2) Definitely look into using some plastic tweezers to get those magnets into place on the glue. Mine have ended up flipping themselves all over the place (despite nothing else magnetic being anywhere near to them). 3) Not a fan of the flexible magnetic sheet. It attaches perfectly fine with small/lightweight models (my Gretchen can be turned upside with no movement). Anything larger/heavier (Ork Boyz and Tzaangors) do shift out of position if the box gets any sudden movement. I'm tempted to get some cheap steel baking trays (exactly the same size as the base of the box) as the magnets hold A LOT better to those. Hope the feedback helps 🙂
Exactly the same experience over here. The concept is very good. But its implementation does seem to work as well for me as for Duncan. There no way my intercessors stay put when I tilt the box too much or turn it upside down. Let’s not talk about my agressors or terminators... It’s not the magnets’ fault. They stick strongly to the door of my fridge. It’s clearly the magnetic sheets. I’m looking for metal sheets but I don’t know where to look.
@@jean-sebastiendube7437 see if you can find some flat baking trays/sheets that are the same size as the base of your box. The standard 3mm x 2mm magnets that I'm using stuck very nicely to them.
Hi Duncan, great video! If I can add a word I would suggest to check that all the magnets are on the same side (polarization) otherwise the smaller miniatures (chainrasps for example) will continously stick toghether during the gameplay. Just my two cents, thank you for your great work!
It's great, I do the same thing, only difference is put the magnetic sheets inside the lid so the main box lifts off. Then you just store the boxes upside down. It makes it easy to access your minis safely and the really useful boxes still stack brilliantly.
This is a perfect solution for storing my minis. As I only play skirmish games, this would be a great for storing each warband. Around about ten miniatures, which would leave enough room to store other bits. For example storing my roster sheets, counters, dice etc..
The Clear plastic bases are difficult to add magnets to, so I glue a layer of foam core to the bottom of the clear base cut to the size of the base which allows me to add the magnets into this foam core. Holds them well.
when you have exactly the same type and brand of expensive magnets that Duncan has you are attracted to this video. 5:37. In all fairness it's the best transportation method. If you don't varnish your miniatures and use foam trays for transportation, bye bye rubbed off paint..
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA RIP spears and spikes. I like foam, but as I get more creative with posing models, it's less and less of an option. what do you do for your knights, Sir Duncan of House Griffith?
I found for most GW models using the 32mm and larger bases that 6x3mm bases have a more perfect and flush fit. So much that I filed off the letters on the base on one side to more evenly distribute the magnets on larger models like The Nightbringer.
Not sure if there's a difference in strength between brands, or continents, or if I'm just too dang rough with my cases.. but the rubber magnetic sheets I've tried here in the US didn't have the strength to hold figs well, even with larger 8mm wide neodymium magnets. :-( I ended up tearing them out and replacing with steel sheets, which work fantastically and hold them tight even with bumps and knocks.
This is so obvious, absolute genius mate, iam a engineer and have access to this stuff, and I’ve never even thought about this, thank you, you have saved my minis.
Don't use magnet sheets, buy product that is basically powdered steel mixed with rubber. Name depends on country and translation but something like ferromagnetic sheets or foil. You can ofc use steel but it's harder to get by and I found this working really well and I think it's the same what Duncan uses. 0.5mm thickness is enough
one thing i did was get a plastic sewing storagte kit. they come with removable inner walls, making it nice and modular for whatever minis i wanted to store. i then cut up some foamboard, and hotglued it to each and every inner surface. it was a pain, but the cases are secure, and not only do they stack, they can clip onto eachother as well, meaning you can carry around your whole army with one hand.
Omg, praise the algorithm and google cookies! I was looking to find a better way to transport my 2k point Seraphon army and I could not for the life of me understand the forum post I found that was talking about this method. THANK YOU Duncan. Subbed
Ok, word of warning, you NEED the same strength of magnets he uses here (5mm di x 2mm with 0.51kg Pull) for this to work with Magnet sheets. I got 3mm di x 2mm with 0.21kg pull to save money and they do stick with some models but none of them stayed when the box was tilted. However if you have an old biscuit/cookie tin (or used sheet metal I suppose) that would work with the weaker magnets. EDIT: You apparently also need the same grade of Magnetic sheets, the ones in the link are Strong Motorway Grade
Well that's serendipitous, I just bought like 16 of these boxes for board game minis last week. Heads up to anyone in the US, these are really expensive on Amazon, but OfficeMax and Office Depot carry the the 4L and 9L boxes and price matches to Staples (which is cheaper by a couple bucks).
I came across a small issue when I added these type of magnets to my IG Kill Team about a year ago. Sometimes when I'm playing, if the models get too close together, the magnetism is so strong it'll flip the models onto their sides as the magnets try to mash together from below. Especially awkward when trying to put them back in the positions they were in beforehand when now you have a magnet Katamari of minis. Maybe the magnet type was too strong. I'll try the ones you posted.
Just wanted to say, thankyou, this is an absolute lifesaver in terms of storing our mini's! One kind gentleman in the comments somewhere, forgotten your name but you know who you are, suggested Ryman in the UK for the really useful boxes, 3 for £12 on the 4 litre, 3 for £15 on the 9 litre, AND a 10% off new customer code too, 6 boxes for less than £29 posted! Ordered the same magnetic sheets off of The Magnet Company on eBay rather than amazon (they have free postage on eBay), all should be arriving this week and i can start getting all of our mini's stored nicely!
Very coincidentally I made the exact same set up, same products, about a month ago! 50 Orks in and it works perfectly. One difference I used was to centralise the first A4 sheet, and I found that this still allowed magnets to connect at the edges of the sheet, with their bases being close up against the edge of the box. Because the magnets are off-set from the centre, they can sit mostly over the edge of the sheet while still attached. A great system though, thanks for the content.
I just made something similar before seeing your video. I used very thin steel sheet from the local hardware store and 5x3mm magnets for a flush fit with good contact. Thanks for producing helpful hobby videos that extend beyond painting. Keep up the good work, Duncan!
I used to just throw all my models in a shoebox and kick them into the store. Any lost limbs or bits were played off as “battle damage”. But this video made me realize; there’s a better way!
Just bought these 4L boxes with the intent of putting my magnetic chaos space marines and boy do they support not only the infantry but even a Hellbrute. Thanks for the video!
I've been looking for a way to cheaply transport my models (as less money spent on a case means more models to paint), and this seems like a wonderful idea.
So I went and did this, made three of these cases for my Catachans. Thanks so much Duncan, I wish I had known this years ago. However, I did discover a couple of things you didn't mention. First, if you have some of the older pewter models you will need more than two magnets on their bases to hold them down with total security. Second, some models like your Leman Russes and other tanks, as well as the old wheeled heavy weapons do not have a place you can conveniently place a magnet, so what I did was cut some small slabs of foam and glued them onto the magnet sheet in a box shape, so they sit in there with the crew and can't move around. So be conscious of that and be ready to buy loads of magnets because you will need all of them. Oh, and be prepared for a little frustration, because sometimes those magnets will just fly at the one you have already glued on; just be patient and careful. Side note, I have seen some guys use those hard Plano hunting rifle cases for tanks, which works because you can fit like two dozen in there and it has good foam. So there's a cool and effective, albeit rather more expensive option.
Duncan when I use Super Glue I also use accelerant spray which cuts down the drying time to roughly half. But my chosen men and occasional females are in sponge wrap, so just as easy to transport inside a travel bag. Cheers for the info and Stay Safe.
You can get the magnets from Amazon UK here:
5mm dia x 2mm magnets:
www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-5mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACMMP0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2PWR3U5OOB844&dchild=1&keywords=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+2mm&qid=1603464763&sprefix=magnet+5mm+x+2mm%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-6
5mm dia x 1mm magnets:
www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert-5mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACKN4M/ref=sr_1_6?crid=JF86NVXHOBYH&dchild=1&keywords=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+1mm&qid=1603464904&sprefix=neodymium+magnets+5mm+x+1mm%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-6
A4 magnetic sheets:
www.amazon.co.uk/0-85mm-Plain-Flexible-Magnetic-Sheets/dp/B07D5C1ZT7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1PCOU358JVGIT&dchild=1&keywords=the+magnet+shop+a4+magnetic+sheets&qid=1603465003&sprefix=the+magnet+shop%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-5
Awesome ty so much
thank you Duncan! I was going to comment that you should have affiliate links in the description! this is perfect! thanks!
What about the cases :D?
@@galan8115 if you're UK based, Ryman stationary always has 3 for 2 deals on RUBs
@@trolemon I was going to say exactly this. Magnetic sheets that fit the 4litre and 9litre boxes perfectly. Also when I’ve had to deal with their customer service, they have been great. I definitely recommend them
BROTHER I AM MAGNETICALLY PINNED TO THIS SURFACE!!!!
The Codex Astartes names this maneuvre STEEL CASE !
COMMANDER BOREALE, REPORT!!!!! HOW GOES OPERATION DEEHPSTRIHKE?!?!?
BROTHER, I AM PINNED HERE
(Astartes part 4 kicks in)
AVENGE ME, BROTHA!!
Duncan, my wife said while I was watching this - “Never mind all this modelling stuff, why doesn’t he tell us his skincare routine?!”
She was a beauty therapist and always comments that you have some of the best skin on TH-cam.
His secret is two thin coats.
This should be his next video.. ngl.. XD
@@lieuwedewolf2476 I’ve just done an actual lol
@@lieuwedewolf2476 OMG 🤣🤣🤣 quality comment
I too wish to wear Duncan’s skin.
There was a disturbance in the hobby, as though a million GW carry cases cried out in terror but were suddenly silenced!
Good
The warp is pleased
I looked at GW cases when I began collecting and thought: aye, I can do that myself. So I went and bought a fuckhuge plastic tool box for 20£ and like 2 square meters of foam sheet for 10£ more. Cut the sheet to size and make holes for the minis, and you are set for up to 2000 points to store and transport.
Different needs. Some people don’t want to bother to cut foam to shape. Also, even if the price is higher than a self made case, it provides a good capacity and protection, and it’s easy to find, just go to your local store.
GW carry cases have been bad in like...forever :D. Lots of good competion out there which both better and cheaper. But Duncans solution is a great way to store miniatures, I ordered a few boxes and magnetic sheets.
I like how you say if you’re a youngster you should get adult to do anything involving a knife as if being an adult makes me any safer when wielding a knife.
Depending on the age, yes, it's safer. Adults know common wisdom like cutting away from yourself, wether or not the do. They also have more developed muscles, giving them more control. A knife can never truly be a safe implement, but knowing what your doing and having the physical capacity to do it are great ways to make it safer.
@@yipyipyipi I was joking about the fact that despite the fact that I know how to use a knife correctly I’ve still managed to cut and stab myself multiple times.
@@yipyipyipi Bah i started in this hobby at about 8 and was trusted with both hobby knifes and superglue/plastic glues its purely a case of education rather than hiding things away from kids, plus i am sure most hobby folks will agree that more knife slips happen when cutting away rather than towards your self that is more a case of using too much force rather than a fresh sharp blade
@WinterXL that's funny i never said id cut my self, if you cant handle cutting towards your self with a hobby knife your not paying attention to what your doing i was taught a healthy respect for knifes but that's no excuse for poor advice as a said most accidents are due to applying to much force and or using a blade that isn't sharp enough for the task at hand
@@tristanlee8495 well just goes to show how well humor carries into text. Carry on, my knife wielding friend.
Duncan is the Bob Ross of Warhammer
Magnets are most effective when they touch the surface they're attracted to. In my experience using super glue, you will often find that magnets peel away from the base over time if they don't sit flush with the bottom of the base.
My solution: lay down your metal or magnetic sheet, lay down a piece of parchment paper, snap your magnet on the surface, put a dollop of hot glue over the magnet, place your model base over the top of the magnet. Allow to dry fully and pull off the sheet. Your magnet will be perfectly flush with the surface, and the hot glue provides a better hold on the magnet since it holds the bottom and around the sides of the magnet!
I was coming to also say hot glue and flush to the surface. I've had no failed magnets with hot glue and it's way faster to boot.
@@TylerProvick I agree. I knocked out 140 skaven models in a 2-3 hour period with hot glue with no failures. Burnt the hell out of my fingers tho.
I hadn't thought about using hot glue.. I've got tons of minis magnetized lime this.. And occasionally a magnet pops off. I'll give this a go, cheers!
Thank you for sharing this method!
Green stuff works better imo.
Make a tiny ball of green stuff and push the magnet into it.
Then place down the model and push down slightly until the base touches the table.
Lift up the model again then put super glue around where the magnet touched the green stuff and let it dry
What I like about the Really Useful Boxes is they have straight sides. So you can also glue sheets on the sides of the box to attach taller minis that don't fit in the smaller box.
I call shenanigans on 6:57. Getting it on the first try and not super-gluing the magnet to your finger? Didn't happen. :)
I guess thats what makes him a professional. I cant use superglue without getting it all over my fingers either!
I agree!
The Magic of Editing
Wait I thought that was just part of using superglue? 🤔(Typing one-handed due to thumb adhered to index finger)
He used tweezers to help I use to have that problem all the time😅 still do when I'm not careful or forget the tweezers
possibly one of the most practical and useful videos i've seen so far on the hobby, good job!!
Glad it was helpful!
PRO TIP: For those in the US, look up Magnetic Receptive sheeting, same thing as Rubber Steel but you don't have to pay the import prices.
Gotta link? I purchased some sheets but they are too thin. 8.5” x 11”, thick 12 mils
you are a god send! I was trying so hard to find something like this!
Alternatively, a local hardware store likely has metal sheets for roofing that work quite well.
Thanks for sharing Duncan. I hope this doesn't cause a rubber steel shortage though! A couple of tips to add as I've magnetised everything in the last year into these really useful boxes:
- a hot glue gun for crafts works well for sticking the magnets to bases and gives the base a little more weight which is great for standing minis on slopes.
- 1 a4 sheet on its own without the offcuts should also be enough to cover enough of the base if you put it centrally in the box. As long as you're not putting 25mm minis on the very edge it works well.
- You can get self adhesive rubber steel sheets so don't need to worry about the glue.
- You can stick a sheet to the underside of lids on the 9L box and hang infantry minis off the ceiling. I use N52 4x2mm neodyniums and a normal 32mm mini hangs fine.
- Offcut strips placed on the underside of a lid with spacing serves well for keeping infantry in their units. Really good for tournaments where you can put them back as they die ready for the next game
If you're in the states and looking for something that'll work instead of the hard to find rubber steel, or magnetic receptive sheets, I've found that the most hardware stores will sell "galvanized steel flashing shingles" in 8in x 12in size. These are roofing shingles, but are basically thin steel plates, and hold magnets quite well. This leaves roughly a 1/2 inch gap around the shingle to the walls of the box, but that's fine as it gives a little padding room for shifting. Glue these to the inside of a really useful box and you're set. Plus side is that it holds magnetized miniature bases a lot stronger than rubbersteel does.
im going to try this as ive had the "weak sheets" issue with 2 that ive bought now, thanks for the info!
This really changed the game for me. I have now made two of these with extra sheets placed on two sidewalls each case for the taller models to go sideways. Really great video, thanks
Awesome, we're glad you like it and it helped :-)
The joys of having an ork army and knowing that I'd need at least 10 of them boxes for my Boyz alone. 🤣
Same boat haha!
Get a bigger box and have them on the sides as well! Heck, even on the lid.
@@MrGhaundan I think there is just something inherently hilarious about a horde of gravity defying orks occupying all 3 dimensions of the box 😂
@@andrewpackham8236 Because ORKS! WAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! (It's just too much fun yelling that in a proper Ork voice)
i've been doing this with the same brand of boxes, except i use sheet metal and hot glue to put the base down. they make larger size boxes, much larger. i actually use the 17L boxes and build a removeable sheet metal shelf halfway through to store my boys.
As a chaos player this is so great!! No more bent or broken spikey bits
I love these kinds of vids. Practical solutions to ubiquitous problems. Love to know your thoughts on stripping miniatures!
We may just make a tutorial on that, great idea Jimbo!
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA would love that! And generally just any more "hobby tip" videos are always great to see!
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Sounds great. Most of the best videos on the subject I've found are in the US, where the available products are completely different. I use isopropyl alcohol but its a bit pricey and not the best.
@@stephenkay3941 - I’m surprised that isopropyl alcohol is pricey. It’s pretty much a standard cleaning product in the computer industry, and is available fairly cheap in quite large containers. Like you, I suspect there are better paint stripping products though.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 Its more expensive than some other cleaning products - its certainly not prohibitively expensive. I picked up 5 litres for £17 - which is fine
Another tip: if you only play skirmish games and such, you can use washers on the bases and glue the round magnets into the box. In this way, you save money (500 ct washers are the same price as getting 100 magnets where I am) and then all your minis can be swapped into the box for whatever you want to take.
I use washers on the minis and the same magnetic sheets as duncan in my storage containers. Works well. DIN 134 M10 washers fit perfectly under citadel bases.
I do this. I've been putting washers under minis for awhile anyway just to weigh down lighter models so they don't wobble as easily on the table.
@@dschriz yep, thanks for the warning on that. For washers you need sheets that are magnetic.
Cheaper than washers are 1p and 2p coins. Those made after 1994 (I think, but please check) have ferrous cores and so will stick to magnetic sheeting. And they’ll double as a base for your mini.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 I live in the USA, so it would be a hassle to get other coins. In addition, even if pennies worked, it is actually a federal crime to use them as bases.
GW: This plastic crate full of foam will hold all your minis wedged together. £80 please.
Duncan: Here's how I make my magic magnet box.
those absurdly expensive plastic crates full of foam are terrible as well, the foam is really poor quality and there way models sit in invites all your spiky sticky out bits being broken off.
And uses Army Painter products to cut it, not GW ones.
GW should manufacture something like what Duncan just did, slap their logo on it and sell it for double the price.
@@nativedubz Exactly this. My friend has a GW carrying case and he's had several spiky bitz break off his Plague Marines I painted. Hurts for both of us.
True true and agree with you. I got 3 2nd hand GW army cases for cheap from some local people. I would never buy them new. got one of the big 6 foam sheet ones for $50. The other 2 was another 6 foam sheet and a stubby vehicle box. Bought them for $200 but the guy was also selling his Eldar and Space Wolves along with it. Sold the 2 armies and got my $200 back plus some extra. LOL!
Now what I just really want to see is Duncan's collection at home :D
Its just a warehouse with box stacks going to the ceiling.
1:57 for that extra space you could put a divider and put things like dice datacards and in a larger 9l box your codexes and pages (I haven't checked sizes yet).
This is how I do it too. Glad you've put it up on your channel as it will definitely help folks
This sheeting looks like a good way to do movement trays too if you're doing anything with ranked units and square bases. Way simpler than sheet steel!
4:44 Duncan showcases my painting technique.
This completely changed how I currently store my models. This was a great idea. I’ve now done this to all my models. Helps having them safely stored and out of the way without risking heavy damage caused by my cat walking around models
There is a easier mode to cut the magnetic sheet: put the smaller piece below the biggest and you have the cutline perfectly showed...
"Exactly how I store my minis at home" - Duncan. Wait wait, you have cases upon cases of knights magged to the floor of huge boxes. This needs pictures!
You make this hobby really easy for everyone! Thank you!
Hope it helps☺
You can also buy ferrous and magnetic vinyl sheets of 62cm by 1/5/10m for larger boxes.
I use a combination of those for plastic miniatures. 1 for the box and one for the figure base. Works fine as long as you don't tip the boxes too far.
This also a great way of storing your miniatures in a cupboard for example.
Duncan turning the box upside down with the models in it gives the same feeling as the DQ employee turning your Blizzard upside down. Brief panic followed by awe at how well it stays in place.
Duncan I’ve been wondering for ages how to organise and store my miniatures in a better way. This video has helped so much. Fantastic! Thanks!
Watched this video a couple of times in the last year and I’ve just completed my first box of eight, plus magnetised all my models. Cheers king!
That is awesome!
It’s nice to see a TH-camr that say prevention messages like those
Rubber steel sheeting is hard to find so here's an easy alternative. Galvanized steel flashing 5" x 7" (make sure it's not aluminum), then attach to the plastic box with Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. Because the flashing is so thin, you don't need to trim the pieces, so layer them. Because it's steel, the magnets work great.
This is exactly what I was thinking about doing for my new SW Legion army. It's good to know that it's not a terrible idea.
Oh snap! You’re the fella who has taught me TONS thru the daily tips! I didn’t know you had a separate channel! Thanks mate! 🤙🏼
...and a Painting Academy website too now (duncanrhodes.com) 😊
You’re doing God’s work, sir. My hobby time is enriched by what y out do and you’ve made me a better artiste and that’s a big deal. 🤙🏼
Dear Duncan.
I have a friend who has gotten into warhammer and he almost instantly fell in love with the tau. Because he doesn't know how to paint a mini, I thought I would paint him a squad to get his army started, but I don't know how to paint tau armor. Any advice?
@Harvey Crewe Oh lord...
You can do a quick and dirty Tau Sept tau by doing a base of wraithbone.
All over contrast with skeleton horde, then hit the cloth with aggros dunes.
Tau painter here ! Duncan actually made plenty of videos on how to paint Tau armor with different Septs, so you should start by checking those out;
If you get a nice oil wash, you can do some really great pin washes that are a lot easier than acryllic washes due to capilary action.
That being said, for tabletop standard, colour, shade, drybrush, metallics is more than good enough.
On Duncan's website, you can find a video of a Tau fire warrior that he painted. It's members only though
Thanks for the safety points. You are a very mature and considerate person! I have been doing this for a while and use flat sheet metal for air ducts taped to the bottom with carpet double sided tape. I will try the sheets you recommend as well. Note that these ceramic magnets are really strong except for forces along their flats, meaning that your miniatures can slide and have impact damage if you drop the case. Super good idea for storing and transporting. Thanks again Duncan!
Pro tip: You can stick a metal sheet on the wall of the bankers box so that your miniatures that are slightly too tall for the box such as banner bearers can be placed sideways and still fit in the same box as their squad. I've been doing a similar system for years now. I use metal duct work sheeting for the metal plate. I use double-sided tape to secure it in place. I glue the magnets using epoxy glue, not super glue. I find the magnets with super glue fall off, too often.
Those boxes also fit fairly exactly into the big "bag for life" type shopping bags we have in the UK, which makes transporting the cases to and from games nights really easy!
This is exactly the same method I use, and I advocate for it everywhere. It's great, especially if you have fragile fighters with lots of bits that stick out. Another good use for offcuts is putting them on the sides of the box - very tall miniatures (Enlightened on Disk) or very short ones you might not always need (Brimstone Horrors) are great to put there, without needing taller boxes or using up space on the bottom.
I´ve always used the foam cases, but this is really handy. I´ll try this with my Song of Ice and Fire dudes.
Could also work really well with the regiment plates. You could cut round pieces so they fit more securely onto them aswell.
I was first shown the really useful box range by someone I used to game with. Because the lids are flat however, they were really useful as model trays for units not on the table without having to hold a heavier box; it's probably a good idea to try and magnetize them as well if you can do it in such a way that it doesn't interfere with stacking.
Tip: at ~2:35, place the sheet you want to cut below the one you'll leave intact. That way you can easily see where you need to cut!
I was thinking the same thing - large piece on top would be easy-peasy!
Literally didn't even finish the video before purchasing all this stuff on Amazon. This solves all of my storage issues. Thanks a bunch!
Do you have an amazon link so we can support you and get the same products?
Agreed, this vid could really use a link to the boxes and sheets.
Here for the boxes. THIS IS A VIDEO I wish was out 4 years ago lol amzn.to/3kpFsz5
If UK based Got to their website it’s cheaper there a you can use PayPal.
@@NaushyTCG A Google search will turn up much lower prices on those boxes FYI.
Such a simple solution, think I'll have to invest to keep those painted models that aren't on display nice and safe next to the display instead of in old ragged boxes. Thanks Duncan, you legend!
Love this video! I use an Ikea Kvissle, which I find perfect for storing and showcasing my minis, but it's too big and heavy to carry around to my friends' place to play. Will definitely build a carrying case like this one.
Also loved the fact that you thought of the kids entering the hobby on several steps; most channels forget it's not just us adults in the hobby.
Thank you Duncan!
Thank you for being such a lovely human being Duncan 😊
Bro tip: get 4x2 mm magnets for 40mm bases, with help of 4mm drill they will fit nicely in those nests they have on bottom
BRATHA! THANKS BRATHA!
Now why haven't I thought about it before :')
This is good timing! Thank you! Just last week I was searching for magnetic storage boxes for some larger models such as a Drukhari Raider and came across a similar video, but they used thin steel sheets (rigid, harder, and more dangerous to cut). The A4 magnetic sheets you use seem to be easier to use. So far I've been using cake tins, but I can't find any big enough to store tall models.
Another commenter suggested hot glue for a flush connection between the magnet and the sheet - if you don't have a hot glue gun, you can use blu-tac and super glue.
Start with a small mound of blu-tac that you press the magnet into against a flat table surface (to make the magnet flush with it), glue the magnet into the blu-tac, then coat the whole blu-tac and magnet mound with super glue, making sure to go round the edges, and ideally avoid the magnet surface or just wipe it off after. It's worked very well for me.
Getting the stuff now! Thanks, storage has been my biggest problem for a while now.
Who is the better emperor
@@ad-skyobsidion4267 Karl Franz vs Palpatine. That's a fight I want to see!
Was genuinely surprised and pleased to find these exact plastic tubs - same brand and dimensions, from a store in Australia - it's rare we have the same stuff available here! - I have just ordered a few of them to do exactly this!
2:40 Can i recommend instead putting the off cut on the bottom, then the full piece on top? That way you can just mark down using the full piece as a guide?
That's exactly what I was thinking.
Came here to make the same observation
You will get that the full piece is just a bit too long if you do it that way. It won’t fit together in the space. The variable won’t be much but if you aim for super flush like this it’ll make a difference.
@@kid0krewgaming326 possibly, but I didn't have the issue when I did that with mine. With the width of a scalpel and the corners are rounded (not a sharp 90 degree angle), there's enough wiggle room that the difference is negligible. Likely depends on the box.
Although I was a dumb ass and put the lid back on with the superglue still wet. because I was tired and going to bed. -_-
@@Fulou How bad did it turn out?
You are such a big help Duncan!!! Very soon I'll have my own carrying cases😊
Great video, I’ve been meaning to get into a 40k club after covid is gone and this is gonna help. This case also seems a lot more reliable than a foam one.
Just put together my first 2 carry cases. Some feedback.......
1) The Really Useful Box boxes are great. Sturdily built and nicely priced. The 4 litre version is ideal for most troop-type models, larger characters might need a deeper box for the extra headroom.
2) Definitely look into using some plastic tweezers to get those magnets into place on the glue. Mine have ended up flipping themselves all over the place (despite nothing else magnetic being anywhere near to them).
3) Not a fan of the flexible magnetic sheet. It attaches perfectly fine with small/lightweight models (my Gretchen can be turned upside with no movement). Anything larger/heavier (Ork Boyz and Tzaangors) do shift out of position if the box gets any sudden movement.
I'm tempted to get some cheap steel baking trays (exactly the same size as the base of the box) as the magnets hold A LOT better to those.
Hope the feedback helps 🙂
Exactly the same experience over here. The concept is very good. But its implementation does seem to work as well for me as for Duncan. There no way my intercessors stay put when I tilt the box too much or turn it upside down. Let’s not talk about my agressors or terminators... It’s not the magnets’ fault. They stick strongly to the door of my fridge. It’s clearly the magnetic sheets. I’m looking for metal sheets but I don’t know where to look.
@@jean-sebastiendube7437 see if you can find some flat baking trays/sheets that are the same size as the base of your box.
The standard 3mm x 2mm magnets that I'm using stuck very nicely to them.
I really love videos like this. Thank you.
Very neat. Very, very impressive.
I use magnets and a quality street tin lol
Perfect!
Aye,old biscuit tins for me :)
That's a great idea
Hi Duncan, great video!
If I can add a word I would suggest to check that all the magnets are on the same side (polarization) otherwise the smaller miniatures (chainrasps for example) will continously stick toghether during the gameplay.
Just my two cents, thank you for your great work!
So we use 2 thin layers of magnets, correct?
Yes, correct, but ONLY two. Anymore and that miniature is not going anywhere!
God help you if you just do 1 thicc layer of magnets.
It's great, I do the same thing, only difference is put the magnetic sheets inside the lid so the main box lifts off.
Then you just store the boxes upside down.
It makes it easy to access your minis safely and the really useful boxes still stack brilliantly.
Duncan will you make a tutorial about sealing a finished model?
This is a perfect solution for storing my minis. As I only play skirmish games, this would be a great for storing each warband. Around about ten miniatures, which would leave enough room to store other bits. For example storing my roster sheets, counters, dice etc..
How would this work for models using flying bases jetbikes, landspeeders that sort of stuff
I second this, my Eldar army could use assistance in this regard, what with all the jetbikes and skimmers
The Clear plastic bases are difficult to add magnets to, so I glue a layer of foam core to the bottom of the clear base cut to the size of the base which allows me to add the magnets into this foam core. Holds them well.
I like to base clear bases then use 3 1mm thick magnets underneath, otherwise you can also cut circles from the sheet you use in the bottom of the box
Love this dude. He is the voice of warhammer in my head
when you have exactly the same type and brand of expensive magnets that Duncan has you are attracted to this video. 5:37. In all fairness it's the best transportation method. If you don't varnish your miniatures and use foam trays for transportation, bye bye rubbed off paint..
Agreed, plus we've lost many a spear point or sword tip and spikey bit in the foam lol
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Preach, brother.
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA RIP spears and spikes. I like foam, but as I get more creative with posing models, it's less and less of an option. what do you do for your knights, Sir Duncan of House Griffith?
@Snufkin Crimelord "Fear not! For the Tech Priests have arrived bearing the Holy Plastic Weld!"
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA I feel like I've mutilated all my poor Infinity models by sealing them in foam. I'll try to treat my current batch better.
I found for most GW models using the 32mm and larger bases that 6x3mm bases have a more perfect and flush fit.
So much that I filed off the letters on the base on one side to more evenly distribute the magnets on larger models like The Nightbringer.
Not sure if there's a difference in strength between brands, or continents, or if I'm just too dang rough with my cases.. but the rubber magnetic sheets I've tried here in the US didn't have the strength to hold figs well, even with larger 8mm wide neodymium magnets. :-( I ended up tearing them out and replacing with steel sheets, which work fantastically and hold them tight even with bumps and knocks.
The magnetic sheeting I ordered from amazon canada was the same, couldn't hold anything.
The rubber sheeting is not magnetic. It's steel infused
This is so obvious, absolute genius mate, iam a engineer and have access to this stuff, and I’ve never even thought about this, thank you, you have saved my minis.
Do u have links for ur cases and magnets that u use also the sheets?
This is legit probably the most helpful tip I have ever seen. Thanks Duncan
Has anyone found a US alternative to the sheets? I bought some, but they were too weak.
I buy large sheets of steel from Home Depot. You can find it in the heating duct aisle. I cut it up with steel snips and magnets stick very well.
Don't use magnet sheets, buy product that is basically powdered steel mixed with rubber. Name depends on country and translation but something like ferromagnetic sheets or foil. You can ofc use steel but it's harder to get by and I found this working really well and I think it's the same what Duncan uses. 0.5mm thickness is enough
Thanks for this!
A little late to the party but what would you suggest putting these in when travelling on public transport?
WE WANT U TO GO ON THE “TRAPPED UNDER PLASTIC” PODCAST!! Pleeeaaase 😊
one thing i did was get a plastic sewing storagte kit. they come with removable inner walls, making it nice and modular for whatever minis i wanted to store. i then cut up some foamboard, and hotglued it to each and every inner surface. it was a pain, but the cases are secure, and not only do they stack, they can clip onto eachother as well, meaning you can carry around your whole army with one hand.
I transport my army in my backpack, sometimes if i'm feeling fancy, a box inside my backpack
Omg, praise the algorithm and google cookies! I was looking to find a better way to transport my 2k point Seraphon army and I could not for the life of me understand the forum post I found that was talking about this method. THANK YOU Duncan.
Subbed
Ok, word of warning, you NEED the same strength of magnets he uses here (5mm di x 2mm with 0.51kg Pull) for this to work with Magnet sheets. I got 3mm di x 2mm with 0.21kg pull to save money and they do stick with some models but none of them stayed when the box was tilted. However if you have an old biscuit/cookie tin (or used sheet metal I suppose) that would work with the weaker magnets.
EDIT: You apparently also need the same grade of Magnetic sheets, the ones in the link are Strong Motorway Grade
Well that's serendipitous, I just bought like 16 of these boxes for board game minis last week.
Heads up to anyone in the US, these are really expensive on Amazon, but OfficeMax and Office Depot carry the the 4L and 9L boxes and price matches to Staples (which is cheaper by a couple bucks).
I came across a small issue when I added these type of magnets to my IG Kill Team about a year ago.
Sometimes when I'm playing, if the models get too close together, the magnetism is so strong it'll flip the models onto their sides as the magnets try to mash together from below. Especially awkward when trying to put them back in the positions they were in beforehand when now you have a magnet Katamari of minis.
Maybe the magnet type was too strong. I'll try the ones you posted.
you must have used some pretty strong magnets never seen that happen before plz post a vid of that cause It sounds so funny to see
This is genius.. Duncan you beauty!
No worries. This method has been around for years 😊
Marco from MarcoFrisoniNJM made magnetic terrain, combine it with the storage boxes and you are solid :)
Just wanted to say, thankyou, this is an absolute lifesaver in terms of storing our mini's!
One kind gentleman in the comments somewhere, forgotten your name but you know who you are, suggested Ryman in the UK for the really useful boxes, 3 for £12 on the 4 litre, 3 for £15 on the 9 litre, AND a 10% off new customer code too, 6 boxes for less than £29 posted!
Ordered the same magnetic sheets off of The Magnet Company on eBay rather than amazon (they have free postage on eBay), all should be arriving this week and i can start getting all of our mini's stored nicely!
Why are these boxes so much cheapr in Europe? ONE 9L box is almost $30 bucks + taxes here in retail.
Fuck, the warhammer paint guru has his own channel? I didn’t even know your name on warhammer tv 😂
This type of video is GOLD.
7:06 I just subconsciously blew on the glue to help it set 😭😭
This is a terrific solution. Thank you very much for this. 👍😀
Very coincidentally I made the exact same set up, same products, about a month ago! 50 Orks in and it works perfectly.
One difference I used was to centralise the first A4 sheet, and I found that this still allowed magnets to connect at the edges of the sheet, with their bases being close up against the edge of the box. Because the magnets are off-set from the centre, they can sit mostly over the edge of the sheet while still attached.
A great system though, thanks for the content.
Thanks Doctor Dunc! This is going to make me, my spare room and my partner very happy!
I just made something similar before seeing your video. I used very thin steel sheet from the local hardware store and 5x3mm magnets for a flush fit with good contact. Thanks for producing helpful hobby videos that extend beyond painting. Keep up the good work, Duncan!
I used to just throw all my models in a shoebox and kick them into the store. Any lost limbs or bits were played off as “battle damage”. But this video made me realize; there’s a better way!
Just bought these 4L boxes with the intent of putting my magnetic chaos space marines and boy do they support not only the infantry but even a Hellbrute. Thanks for the video!
I was wondering how to transport models for a painting competition, this is the perfect answer! Thanks Duncan
I've been looking for a way to cheaply transport my models (as less money spent on a case means more models to paint), and this seems like a wonderful idea.
Duncan is an absolute unit Everything i saw from him was so helpfull
So I went and did this, made three of these cases for my Catachans. Thanks so much Duncan, I wish I had known this years ago. However, I did discover a couple of things you didn't mention. First, if you have some of the older pewter models you will need more than two magnets on their bases to hold them down with total security. Second, some models like your Leman Russes and other tanks, as well as the old wheeled heavy weapons do not have a place you can conveniently place a magnet, so what I did was cut some small slabs of foam and glued them onto the magnet sheet in a box shape, so they sit in there with the crew and can't move around. So be conscious of that and be ready to buy loads of magnets because you will need all of them. Oh, and be prepared for a little frustration, because sometimes those magnets will just fly at the one you have already glued on; just be patient and careful.
Side note, I have seen some guys use those hard Plano hunting rifle cases for tanks, which works because you can fit like two dozen in there and it has good foam. So there's a cool and effective, albeit rather more expensive option.
New to this hobby and last week I made my own figure case just like yours to store my WAAAGH! and its working great! Thx for showing this!
Duncan when I use Super Glue I also use accelerant spray which cuts down the drying time to roughly half. But my chosen men and occasional females are in sponge wrap, so just as easy to transport inside a travel bag. Cheers for the info and Stay Safe.