3D Print - New Light Weight Material??? - Polymaker Polylite PLA LW - is it real?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2021
- I think I found a new Light Weight 3D printing materiel - Polymaker Polylite PLA-LW
Or Polymaker Light Weight PLA or LW-PLA or ??? what are they going to call it?
Print files and instructions available from soarkraft.com/
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Here is the link to the Polymaker Polylite PLA-LW on Amazon
I am an Amazon affiliate to purchasing through this link give back to this channel thanks
amzn.to/3pndwAY
I found this the other day on Amazon by chance, there is no information from Polymaker nor can I find anything talking about it any where else.... so I bought some. Here is my video of using it.
It "Pre - Foamed" Light Weight PLA - so low density PLA.
It prints with exactly the same print settings as regular PLA, but is ~65% of the weight.
I like the foaming stuff, but it is a pain..... this was sooooooo easy.
I am not sponsored by Polymaker or anyone else, my opinions are my own, and the video tells the story.
Please buy my plans and support my channel at soarkraft.com/
The Roughgen V2 is a carbon reinforced slope glider airframe that is 3D printed, designed for speed and rough terrain landing. The design is based on performance and F3F competition models of the past 30 years, but as a 3D print-able version. Flies like a molded airframe, but 3D printed... so if you crash it, print another.
Print - Fly - Crash - Repeat
flown here:
Roughgen V2 printed with Colorfabb LW-PLA
Airfoil: RG15
Wingspan: 1.2M (48")
Flying weight = 445g
This model and options are available at soarkraft.com/
Everything designed to print with Cura Slicer (Free) and settings available in instructions.
Other wing sizes and airfoils coming soon.
Here are links to printers and materials used in this video.
Clicking and following these links help fund this channel. Any support is appreciated.
We are not sponsored by any of these products and our opinions are our own.
3D Printers:
Awesome - Artillery Sidewinder X1: amzn.to/3gJzhoI
Cheap - Creality Ender3: amzn.to/3xuUYzA
#3DPrinted
#RCAirplane
#ItFlies
#100mph
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Thank you for the review. very helpful for a 15 yrs old kid with a tight budget, a 3d printer, an rc airplane maker. might start making youtube videos myself
Im glad I ran into this video. I thought I got ripped off when I purchased the polylite lw pla due to the label, and not being able to find any info on the material other than within amazon. This makes me feel a little better. Im going to go ahead and use it for my project. Thanks for the info.
im also printing some planes with Colorfabs LW PLA, the good thing about that is, that you are able to choose whether you want a super light part or a little bit more strength by changing flow and temp.
Using that you can save weight in parts like nosecone etc. but increase strength in parts like wingsaddle or other structual important parts. Thats what i really like with that. Using the support blocker function in cura you can even do it on a single piece.
With the polymaker stuff you cant really do that in the same way as your wall thickness will change.
But the polymaker stuff seems to better for people who just wanna print light stuff without trying out that much
Its great there can be both.
I agree that the foaming material is wicked cool. However it adds another level of complexity to the printing process that most regular people can't get their brain around or have the patience to make it work.
What you are talking about is on another level above that. Sounds like you have the foaming properties more than dialed in for your application.... and with Cura - very impressive.
@@soarkraft I also used like half a spool for just getting the right setting's 😅worst thing about the foaming stuff is that you can't use retract so your STLs need to be designed for the use otherwise you'll have a bad time cleaning up your prints.
Does that also apply to the polymaker stuff? Can you use the retraction feature?
No retract issues with the Polymaker stuff on the print I did. I am sure there are ways to dial in the perfect settings, I was just impressed with how easy it was to switch from regular PLA to the Polymaker PLA-LW... I used the same gcode for both, same looking parts, but one is lighter... thats pretty easy.
So I got Colorfabb material to work with Simplify3D slicing it ... 1mm retraction, 250 temp with 50% feed. The parts have turned out nice, no skin bumps or such. No other print changes needed. There was some extra material where the layer finished... easy to remove in the fuse parts.... did not see it in the wing panels or fins.
In Cura - no such luck. the parts are heavy and lots of skin deformation (looks like the wall sticking through). I have changed many of the parameters, but not getting anything better. I will try just turning retraction off.... have not tried that yet.
@@soarkraft I am printing colorfab in cura. If you turn on the traveling layer in the preview after slicing, you can adjust settings and see where the extra material will go. Also I found that loctite brand stik n seal work s really well for the hinges instead of silicone.
@@kfamilyvideos1 Which Stick and Seal variety did you use? I see there are several kinds.
This is my favorite filament. Easy to use , has a beautiful finish, reasonably priced. Everyone who wants to print planes or whatever will be pleasantly surprised by this filament because it is lightweight and has a fair amount of strength. Recommended.
I also test this filament, the surface is great. However it’s only 20% lighter than regular PLA😂 I am confusing if I make anything wrong
So I am using it with a Bambu X1C and had to reduce the flow to 92% to get the proper extrusion width and weight... still at 210 temp. Not sure why, melt speed or something.
Interesting. Thanks for comparing
Thanks for watching!
Nice, you've sold me on this material. I'm printing an airplane design with an open structure (similar to the ones from Kraga models), and my test prints with regular PLA have a fair amount of stringing but are otherwise pretty good. I think it would be really hard to print this type of thing with Colorfabb LW-PLA since you can't really use retraction from what I've heard. This pre-foamed PLA seems like just what I need. Plus I like that it requires minimal changes to slicer settings, so I can dial them in most of the way with regular PLA.
Very nice! Looking forward to the finished plane!
(Btw we do have multiple colors such as White, Grey or Wood color :) )
You do???? Are they the low density "pre-foam" stuff? Where can I get more information? OK I found the "wood" color... where can I get the white and gray? Is this pre-release stuff or something... the stickers on the spool and the package are not quite clear??? so many questions.
@@soarkraft Yes they are also LW-PLA however they may have been out of stock. It should come back in stock soon.
Same place where you got the black color.
(The spool you released was a pre-released batch, we are now producing the final product on cardboard spool)
Does Polymaker have an official name for this material? The whole "Polylite" caused confusion before with people thinking it was something other regular PLA.
@@soarkraft Yes we do:
PolyLite PLA -> Regular PLA
PolyLite LW-PLA -> Pre-foamed PLA
PolyLite PLA-CF -> Carbon fiber reinforced PLA
PolyLite PLA Silk -> Silk finish PLA
PolyLite PLA Glow -> Glow in the dark PLA
PolyLite PLa Sparkle -> Sparkle infused PLA
I've been printing with a spool of gray, and loving it. Hope you can get some bright colors too, rather than just the neutral colors you have now. Would save us painting to not have our planes dissappear from view in the sky.
I'm building an RC plane for my senior internship in high school and was stuck between using the eSUN LW PLA and the Polymaker PolyLite LW PLA. This review has been extremely helpful. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
So which one did you go for? I’m having the same choice as all the others are $25+ shipping to the US.
@@polar1991 I used polymaker
@@siop5709 I heard that polymaker doesnt foam with heat. I thought it was pre foamed.
@@polar1991 It is prefoamed, so it makes it muchhhh easier to dial in settings for consistency
I subscribed! Because I like supporting not pop. youtubers, like you and chronic mechatronic
Thanks - just need 400 more
Very nice prints. im fighting stringing issues with mine
yep, it has some stringiness. not as bad as the foaming material. Use the combing mode, avoid crossing perimeter... the anti-ooz control settings. They work well for my SoarKraft parts... well accept for the new Cura 5.0+ ... does not work... but all the other slicers do.
I’m curious what your setting are for printing this material. I am getting an excessive amount of stringing. I’m using an Ender 3 V2 with an all metal hotend and Cura 5.0 but also have Simplify 3D. I’ve tried several stinging tests using different temperatures and retraction speeds. Any advice?
I use these settings soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings
the first column. The strings are more of a temperature thing, I use 210... it prints fine at 205 too. retraction does help a little, but don't go over 2.5-3.0mm or it will have voids at the start of extrudes and still have strings.
@@soarkraft Thank you for your response. Stringing is not just related to the temperature. Yes, temperature is a factor but other things such as flow, over extrusion, retraction and retractios distance, as well as travel speed can also attribute to stringing. I was just wondering if I got a bad batch or if this filament just does this. I'm printing at 200, have my e, x, y and z steps set perfectly for this material and continue to get stringing. Even if its just a small amount it is annoying to have to sand the parts. I was wondering if it was either that I got a bad batch or the direct drive extruder I am using might be the issue. I will test it on a boden system and see. Thanks.
I am here because I also was getting excessive stringing with this material on my ender3 v3 with micro swiss all metal hotend and direct drive extruder. Has it got any better for you? I am testing a print right now with 3mm retraction at 40mm/s (micro swiss says max 1.5mm at 35mm/s). Printing at 195 and reduced my flow rate to 92% and it looks much better so far. I just hope I dont jam up my hotend with the extra retraction
@@Drieeedger Any chance of an update and have you gone Direct Drive with these retraction settings ?
@@tubamanandy2 I finished that print with very good results. Yes that was with direct drive. I can't say those settings will work for everyone but 8 got a clean print that was significantly lighter than any of my other attempts
Tried printing Prefoam on our classes Prusa w/ PEI bed, and i cannot get it to stick. Do i need a diff bed surface? It also will not work with painter's tape
What be temp are you using... 60 works well with blue tape and any of the PLAs. My sons voxelab printer has a rough texture sheet, we use blue tape on it too with good results.... always sticks. Use iso to get it off, with a little heat. I use glue stick on my bambu PEI sheet, 50 temp... very thich layer of glue stick.
Having adhesion problems....any suggestions? Ender3 stock build plate.
blue tape seams to work the best, Scotch brand #2090 is 1.8" or 48mm wide is what I use. use a skirt, 1 layer with a 3-4 line count, this will tack down the tape in the print area. 60 degree bed temp. easily comes off with rubbing alcohol and a little heat.
I have tried other brands of blue tape, but not as good.
I have used hair spray, but it can stick too good and you can't get the part off without damage.
Thanks. I tried the tape but it wouldn't stick either so I washed the plate in dish liquid, dried it then wiped it down with rubbing alcohol, re- leveled the bed and it is working so far. I like the tape idea.
Is it worth strengthening the LW-PLA with fiber glass resin?
possible with lightweight cloth, but glassing with resin adds too much weight, the foamed material is too porous and would soak it up. I have used CA for repairs with good results.
@@soarkraft thanks. I’ve dropped my temp down to 190c and am still having bad oozing problems with it. Causing a lot of excessive stringing. Tried adjusting retraction and flow settings to no avail.
Hi there! Great video. However in my test, with the same configuration to PLA. The filament is only 20% lighter than regular PLA.😂 have you modified the flow rate?
I am on Bambu lab with 210C temperature.
I am using grey color with Bambulab X1C, 50% speed and 0.98 flow rate, and just 80% weight of regular PLA.
These results in the video were using SoarKraft parts on an ender3 using Cura 4.11 - which and ender3 prints slow
I have been working with a Bambulab printer and the Bambu studio - I am using 40mm/s speeds .90 flow and 210 nozzle temp and only printing one part at a time. It is possible to speed things up, but it seams to compromise quality. These speeds are also working well for the foaming materials. The parts still print much faster and way better quality than on any of the older machines.
All of my testing have been with my SoarKraft parts. I do not do setting or testing for any other file supplier.
Grey and wood color are the only colors I don't use. It is possible it prints different, but off white, black, orange and green seam to print similarly.
@@soarkraft so one of the key is use 0.9 flow? Thanks!
@@soarkraft so when you say it’s 65% weight compared to PLA, is the PLA use 100% flow rate and LW pla use 90% flow rate?
Are there any foamed petg filaments or there?
Not that I have seen. The foaming PLA and pre-foamed stuff is bleeding edge tech...
I believe there is a version of ASA though. That might be worth a look if you can handle the high print temps.
What is the Polymaker like in the sun
No issues with UV that I have seen, but is still susceptible to heat, and is no worse that another of the other types of filament. Flying around is fine, but storing a printed plane in a hot car is not good. Even Carbon Nylon will warp in a hot car.
Don't know if you are paid or sponsored. But if you didn't know, polymaker is using your video to advertise their polylite on Amazon. Not sure if you have them permission
I am not paid or sponsored. They did not even ask. Thanks for letting me know.
This is only watchable at 2X speed.
That does help, at 1.5x it sounds like a normal speed video.
The labeling issue is kind of explained at 4 : 41 in this video ...
Poly doing beta testing, to get unbiased feedback on new products.
th-cam.com/video/MwlsDe3jhPM/w-d-xo.html
The labeling should have been better even for beta testing. And, well, I gave my unbiased feedback back there was (and still is) no information other than this video about this material. The Polylite brand name lit up the 3D printing airplane forum over a year ago, and was a complete dud... and sort of pissed off many that thought it was a light weight material.... and it was just PLA+. I think Polymaker has something with this low density material, but they (Polymaker) might need to dig a little deeper for a way to set it apart from the other offerings.
@@soarkraft Thanks again for doing the video. Without it, I would not have considered to look at. It definitely is another material, tool for 3d printing.