How to Print LW-PLA (ALL MY SETTINGS) | ft. NEW eSun eLW-PLA
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- I will show you every line in Cura for all my LW-PLA settings. To print PLA just change the temp to 215c and 100% Flow rates. I will also show the difference between ColorFabb LW-PLA and eSun eLW-PLA.
Thank you so much for watching!
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ColorFabb LW-PLA: colorfabb.com/lw-pla-natural
eSun ePLA-LW: Coming Soon
Plane Print Notes: www.planeprint.com/notos
LW-PLA Setting
Profile 3 Cura:
Quality:
Layer Height - 0.25
Line Width - 0.4
Shell:
Wall Line Count - 1
Infill:
Infill Density - 0
Material:
Printing Temperature - 235
Build Plate Temperature - 60
Flow - 55%
Enable Retraction - Checked
Retraction Distance - 2
Retraction Speed - 30
Retraction Extra Prime Amount - 0.5
Speed:
Print Speed - 100
Outer Wall Speed - 40
Inner Wall Speed - 40
Travel Speed - 80
Travel:
Combing Mode - off
Cooling:
Enable Print Cooling - Checked
Fan Speed - 20
Mesh Fixes:
Union Overlapping Volumes - NOT Checked
Special Modes:
Surface Mode - Surface
Experimental:
Slicing Tolerance - Middle
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Troy, I received a roll of the Colorfabb today. Your settings have been spot on for every part I've printed. Almost half way and going strong. Thank you so much for sharing!
Again......Troy......thank you for the help here.
I'm running eSun to print the Eclipson P51D. I started with your settings and only had to change a couple things.
Your sharing here saved me HOURS of being frustrated and not enjoying this build.
THANK YOU! the community THANKS YOU!
Great video Troy. It is tough for noobs to get it right without help in the beginning. A note to inexperienced 3d printer users, not all filaments are made the same. I bought some Inland LW-PLA that gave beautiful models but the walls were .34mm thick, quite tough but very flimsy. Finely got the E-Sun LW-PLA and - bam - great parts right off. .51mm thick and weight was right on spec. I got a CR 10 V3 with the glass bed. Found that gluestick works great if you put a bit on and use a little rubbing alcohol and paper towel to smear it all over the bed real thin. Locks those parts down really well and a little bump and they pop off without damage every time. No more prying and digging. Hope you enjoy the coffee I sent last week.
This was awesome. I'm printing my Eclipson A with eSun eLW-PLA and your setting are making the parts perfect. Thank you!
This was a great tutorial! I just started using the active foaming instead of pre-foamed. It got me really close to where I needed to be for my Neptune 4 Plus. I have been an avid RC aircraft guy for roughly 25 years now and I am having fun printing out, designing, and modifying planes.
Thanks Troy,
These settings are resulting in very clean prints.
Great information thanks to your videos I have had success in printing several planes and now with the eSun LW-PLA I have finished the Plane Print Rise. Without your info I would be still printing test pieces and scratching my head what to try next. Thanks again, look forward to your next project. Might have to try the Eagle next.
Great to know eSun do it now. Also to note that Esun have bought out their ST-PLA (Super Strong) Same weight as pla but it has properties that feel more like an HDPE plastic bottle. The specs show as inferior to pla EXCEPT that the sheer strength, Layer adhesion and mailability are more than double that of regular pla. This should be a game changer for rc aircraft where increased strength is nessesary.
Troy, nice videos,, I was struggling with the LW PLA settings. Now having the correct settings is huge, it works great now,, thank you for sharing.
Thx for this Troy - just received my ESun LW-PLA and was strugglin but these worked a treat!! Awesome
Thanks for the comparison tests, it is good to see that more options are becoming available and this will make LW-PLA more affordable. A request if I may, would you be able to do a short video on paints in the near future? I think an explanation on paints and the pros and cons associated to weights and flight is something most of your viewers would be interested in. When I watch your videos as mentioned before I get very inspired and find my creative juices flowing with ideas of what I can do and sometimes the ideas get too carried away....... keep up the good content that keeps us dreaming and building!
I'd recommend water based paint out of an airbrush then some sort of polyurethane clear coat. But in the past I just use rattle can
Thanks for posting this. I've just started on my Planeprint Eagle and haven't got to the LW PLA parts yet.
Thanks for showing the same sliced part printed on 3 different printers. That's the only area I worry about regarding settings. Your settings work great on your printer, but may not work as well on my different printer. Your showing the same part across 3 printers is significant. Cheers.
You have a lot valious information in your channel. I did my first Zero A6m, follow your tips. I have two Zero now (Zero ABS/PLA 800g total weight and Zero PLA-LW ~500g). Keep your great job.
The slicer settings seem to be the most challenging so thanks for posting this video. You did mention that the only change for Eclipson planes is to leave Surface mode as Normal but after comparing the settings line by line with those recommend by Eclipson's A-LW profile (imported into Cura from their g-code files) I see quite a few differences and wasn't sure which one to use. I guess I could try both.
Depends on the material you are printing out with!
Thank you so much, i tried to do everything that i could think of to get my eSun LW-PLA to print and it just kept clogging and i couldnt get past just the base layer. Im no pro when it comes to 3d printing and ive only had my 3d printer for a few months and only printed with PLA+. You truly helped me out tremendously. Onto printing my F16 now. 😁
Hi Troy. Thanks for all your wonderful instructional videos. I have found one problem worth noting. I am using an Ender 7. I have been working with the Eclipson Pitts (you demonstrated the build in a different video) and found that in spite of all the settings you have shown in this video, there is a G-code command M106 (sometimes more than one) in the G-code created by slicing the Epsilon STL files. These M106 codes are also in the G-codes Epsilon offers in their download too. Regardless, unless I edit out those M106 codes before printing, the nozzle temp drops precipitously to the point where the printing stops due to a heating error. That said, as long as I edit out those M106 codes from the sliced file using your slicer setup, the printing results are excellent.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video.
Keep it up.
All the best!
Hermann
Great video Troy! Your settings are perfect for my Ender 3 with the Micro Swiss Direct drive and using Sainsmart LW PLA. The only difference was the temps because of the Sainsmart LW PLA.
I used these settings for the Planes Print Eagle LW PLA parts and it solved the problems I was having. The Planes Print suggested settings produced a scorched mess full of holes on my Anycubic Vyper
Damn nice job, thanks for all the work.
Troy, another great video. I have learned more from you about Cura & 3D printing than from any other source. Thank you. One of the things I'd like to see you do is setting up Cura. What fields need to be made visible in Setting Visibility? I've also noticed that at times you show the extruder and the nozzle path. How is this done? And I've seen animation controls along the bottom of your screen is some of your videos. I have only a vertical scroll bar along the right edge of the screen for going to different layers. Is the animation controls & nozzle visibility something that needs to be turned on somewhere in Preferences? A plug in? Thanks.
This is great. Thank you for this! I have been following your Eclipson prints and have printed many of their plans with their gcodes. Will be nice to chagne them up a bit. I am curious what you are doing with the different Eclipson settings. I assume these work with the A-LW. Do you leave most of this the same for the C-LW as well; like the flow, speed, etc? What do you change for this setting?
Thank you so much you have helped along with the printing. Sadly tho we have no idea how to make it so that we can have infill on the modal to help support the airfoil skilll
Thank you for all your videos! This one was SUPER helpful
PRO TIP: watch in 50% speed in settings so you can follow along in CURA
If you pause youtube video, you can advance one frame with full stop (.) and referse one frame with comma (,). Cursor left/right skips 5 seconds and letters J, K, L skip 10 sec backwards, pause and skip 10 secs forward.
Hi Troy, your video are very informative ... thank you for it. It works like a charm on an S1 Pro direct drive. Question: would this LW-PLA profile work the same on a bowden 3 V3 ?
I’m interested in printing a plane and your videos are the first I’ve heard of LW PLA
Thank you for posting this really informative vide on light weight filament. Was wondering if you could help out with the eclipson settings on a VoxMaker slicer software. Some of the setting are not the same or it's different and sometimes get lost trying to transpose the settings between what you have on this video. Thanks in advance.
THANK YOU!
Could you do strength testing with different LW-PLA filaments? For normal 3D printing you can usually improve the strength a bit by increasing the temperature but it seems that LW-PLA is really finicky with the temperature so that cheat cannot probably be used here.
Another great video! It would be really interesting to see a comparison video of your 3d printers. Do you have a favorite printer so far for printing thin wall airplane parts?
Thanks Troy for the video. I didn’t quite get how you select minimum extruder travel in cura, I just understood it’s a new feature. Would you be so nice to share with us?
Congrats for the amazing channel and btw, I love the airliner ))
I have the same question? Very poorly explained.
Dude! Great videos you make! I'm going to make the Longboard 1000. It should be fun project. I love it!
I love Esun, so happy to hear they are doing their own light weight PLA!
Me too!
Great instructional videos Troy, I've learned a lot from them. In this vid you mention how to get rid of stringing printing LW PLA. Which is the newer method that you mentioned? My LW PLA test wing from Plane Print still has stringing issues.
You can't print the test part out with no stringing. Try printing out one of the parts from a plane that is designed for lw pla printing!
@@TroyMcMillan CAn you elaborate? Is there a slicer setting to activate so that the head moves without stopping (as briefly shown in your video). I have a PRusa Mk3.
Hey Troy Awesome Vids... Learned a lot from watching... Maybe one day Ill run into you at one of the flying sites as I live Vegas too... I've been using your settings in a couple of your vids to get started on an Eclipson Model S. while your print settings are nearly perfect, my prints come out with highly visible seams where the print head transitions from printing internal structure to printing the thinwall "skin". On Eclipson's models, thats mainly on the bottom of the wings. Could you point me to the settings that might help with this?? Thanks again
Thanks Troy, thats what I've been waiting for !! What printer are you using these settingsom?
Finally something that I needed to know. That’s that Ender is capable of printing plane’s parts.
Thank you master
Great video. Lots of good info.
Thanks Troy this video saved me days of fiddling with cura. Do you know if there is a seaplane model like an icon available to print?
Great video, I wonder what is the wall thickness you use in the 3D model? Thanks
A great video. I learned a lot. Thanks
So happy I could help!!
So helpful! Will these Cura settings work for 3D Lab Print planes?
Troy, thanks for your videos, I am printing the Notos, is it better to print one item at a time or multiple files? Or does it matter?
Do you know where to find Simplify 3D settings? Thanks a lot.
You are awesome my friend!
Thank you!!
Troy, thank you for the video.what was the method to get rid of string problem. sorry I don't understand this part.
Awesome, what kind of printer are you using? How much did it cost to print this aircraft with LW PLA, was there a significant price difference in printing the same aircraft with Colorfast vs Esun? Are there any FPV aircraft that can be printed with LW PLA? How about strength of the LW PLA, strong enough to mount gimbled camera's? Thanks!
Hi Troy. Just ordered esun LW Pla. My pla prints come out great using your profiles, however they are heavier than expected. Is this due to flow rate or another setting? Thanks
Thank you for the video. I have a 3d model airplane and want to design as you. Where can I read about your print design system (which eliminates internal passes)?
hi, i'm new to plane printing and i'm using this guide to set up my esun-lw roll (first time using it). I didn't quite understand what you are saying at 4:56 regarding the new printing method. Is it a specific profile setup or is it referring to how the plane is designed?
I use simplify, so i'm sure i'll have to play around with my settings, regardless.
Thanks troy. Just one small point... slow down when scrolling through your settings on the screen. I keep having to replay sections over and over just to make sure I have not missed anything.
I changed the youtube speed to 25% so i could read his settings.
Have to say a big than you mate. These settings with very little tweaking were superb for my prusa mk3
Cool man!!
Is there a big difference is the strength of the parts, PLA vs LW-PLA? Thank you
HIi and thanks for infos on cura settings for LW printing... Cool but touchy the right difference with std PLA... Watch out, my plane have guiding tubes for link servos to tail -LW will shrink these hole's dia- and squatching the steel piano wires what now???
Noob 3d printer here. I have a FLsun v400 delta printer. If I wanted to take advantage of its speed, can I just raise the print and travel speed settings or will I run into other issues by trying to speed it up? The LW Pla prints so different from regular PLA and I’m trying to not waste too much of the LW stuff because colorfab is kinda pricey. Will have to try ESun. Thanks for the help!
I used your LW-PLA settings and of all the setting I've tried they produce the best results. I'm getting the thinnest walls. I still have one problem I have not solved and that is I still get pimples all over the print. In one airframe section I printed it has tubes for graphite rod support and the tubes have pimples in it so I can't insert a graphite rod. Any ideas on what I could try to eliminate these pimples? The stringy issues I had are gone! BTW When I print with regular PLA and the standard CURA profile I get good quality prints with out pimples or stringing.
Hi Troy. I'm trying to print colorfabb Varioshore TPU (tyres for my Hurricane) with my printer CR6 SE which have divert
to direct drive extruder with LGX and Mosquito Hotend but can't find any profile for cura or creality. Extruder works
perfect due print BLERIOT and is perfect.
Thanks
This is such a good video! Would be interested if you came across a setting guide for prusa slicer.
I have to get a prusa first!
Отлично!👍🔥
Hi Troy - I have seen a lot of your videos, and will try to print the eagle but somehow I don't have all the options and settings in my version of Cura 4.10. I use MAC and can't find a version that just look a little like your settings - so what do I do?
I see that you have an SWX1. I have the same printer and also a FLSUN Q5. Hopefully, I can complete my FLSUN QQ-S Pro(Hybrid) before the end of June. I have designed and 3d printed parts for the QQ-S Pro. What profile are you using on the X1? I have S3D and Cura 4.13.1. None of the beta 5 versions will load and I have not found out why yet. I have a friend who is an RC flyer and a builder, and we are looking at collaborating on one of these builds. He is very interested in the 3d build, but does not own a printer and has never designed parts for one. His background is in aviation since he flew cargo planes during the Vietnam conflict. I have to adjust my budget to get the LW-PLA to calibrate both printers. This filament is not cheap.
Have you tried using a larger nozzle to print LW PLA faster and bigger?
Hi Troy, have you found any difference in strength between ESun and Colorfab?
Troy, what version of Cura you do use in your videos? I've seen a lot of discussions about Cura 5.3.1 (latest as of this post) having issues compared to the prior 4.12 and 4.13 releases. Do you have a recommendation?
Good job troy. I 'll get a try with esun
I recommend it!
It doesn't seem to be available anywhere though?
@@cadydiditcustoms6654 they are out of stock at the moment, hopefully should be stocking this next month sometime!
@@TroyMcMillan I just got my first roll of Colorfabb LW-PLA, and I am now looking for a good airframe to jump into, hopefully something that can fly on an F-pack from Flite Test...
@@cadydiditcustoms6654 Im not sure what the f pack is, but a good first plane would be the model v by eclipson easy to print and flies very good, a great beginner plane
What wall thickness did you design your test cube? thanks
Thanks fam
Hope it helps 🤞
Are the lw-pla wings more resilient compared to PLA when they fall to the floor or are pressed with your fingers? I made it out of PLA, but when it breaks, it breaks easily. Is lw-pla stronger than pla? Or is it similar? I wonder
lw-pla is more expensive. here in Korea.
What printer would you suggest if my work involves only working with light weight PLA, that too for small parts ?
Any notable difference in surface finish between regular PLA and colorfabb LW PLA?
👏👏👏...👌
Have you tryed the polylight from polymaker??
Thanks for the video im new to 3d printing and have been watching as many videos as i can , im using a 3d printer primarily with the intention of printing rc planes and have a shop nearby that sell E SUN so that has been my go to sofar . a question i have for you or others ,is the stringing inside a wing or fuselage really an issue other than visual? ive only just started 3d printing and have started with a 2.1mtr B17 bomber in E SUN LWPLA on an ANYCUBIC KOBRA 2 MAX so far most pieces have had minimal stringing but other parts more . im thinking of trying to remove most but unless it interferes with anythin im not to fussed, another question is how much glue should i used between parts ? havent started glueing yet but suspect a thin bead of super glue and pressing together until set and perhaps a bead inside with a sprinkle of baking soda. if anyone out there has any useful hints or suggestions im all ears.
Hi Troy, Have you ever done the same eSun LW-PLA Vid for PuraSlicer ?
How do I get the wall thickness to increase. I printed a test box from 230 to 270 in 10 degree increments and really didn’t see a an big difference. Printing on a Anycubic Kobra direct drive. I printed a plane from 3d lab print. The weight of each piece was correct but the walls were thin by 1/2. It’s almost paper like rather than plastic. Any help is greatly appreciated
I just saved my P3 profile as P3-LW with the LW changes. That way you can choose which one you need.
That is a good idea!
Great video again.but it's funny most people don't talk about how this pla shatters if u make any mistake on landing.after all the hard work n time putting the planes together then one second mistake it's over.
Printing R / C models is very tempting. However, I see two serious drawbacks:
- filament price. Currently, 1kg is over £ 40, meaning the larger models will be worth hundreds of pounds
- temperature resistance. I'm afraid that in summer the model can easily distort from the sun
Have you had any experience with this?
nice vid mate
Have you heard anything about polymaker light weight pla? I bought a roll and will see how it does.
Another great video Troy. Thank you for all the detail and the help in the settings. I just ordered some lightweight pla. I noticed that sometimes you do use regular pla, is that only for areas of the plane that is needing the extra structural support? Thanks again.
I appreciate that! I hope it helps! Yeah, the regular PLA is used for strength. The best use of LW-PLA is definitely in a hybrid system.
Hi Troy... I Just made that test wing from plane print with lw pla (esun) but I looks like significantly softer than The regular pla. Is that expected??
👍
Hi tnx voor the explanation. I wonder if these settings also apply to the ender 3 Pro to print with eSun eLW-PLA?
Hi Lesley RC Fun!, My CR 10 V3 is like a big brother to the Ender 3 Pro. Main difference is bed size and direct drive vs tube feed for the filament. The firmware that runs the both rigs is basically the same except for the filament feed issue and the max model size. The Ender 3 is a very popular printer so you should find most of the slicing software will have it listed as usable printers. If you do not have much experience with it yet, I would suggest getting a spool of PLA or Tough PLA and make a few items from Thingiverse or other sites to get used to it. Do the string test Troy shows on one of his vids to make sure your settings are correct. Then print the wingtest file to see if that works out. Troy also gives a very detailed list of settings in Cura to make sure your LW-PLA comes out as good as it can. Experiment a bit with uncomplicated models to see what does what and move on from there. The Eagle is BIG but a fun build once you understand your printer and Cura. To answer to your original question "I wonder if these settings also apply to the ender 3 Pro to print with eSun eLW-PLA?", the uncomplicated answer is yes.
When flying the airplanes, dp you ever get cracks along the layer lines say in the wings because of such a thin wall? I mean when the surfaces slightly bend due to maneuver induced or load stress?
No I haven't experienced that! It has a little flex to it, so it would probably have to be a pretty extreme situation
Saw some lines in the Esun LW-pl: just some minor artifacts because of no esun specific settings, or did it crack?
chilled and informative video as always!
I had to turn the flow rates up a little more, but ya that one piece didn't print great.
You’re a cool guy Troy, nice info 🐐
I got the Overture lightweight pla and tried several times but your settings but then I realized this lightweight pla is pre- foamed. So I keep pre foamed set to 100% flow rate?
try Polymaker Polylite, I have printed 3 planes with this filament and it prints easy.
What release Cura are these settings for? I am using 5.3.1, the settings in your video seem to work fine. Thnx
Hello, I have problems with the stringing. At cruising speed I always get it with retract or without. I use the prusalicer but the settings are almost the same. in vase mode there is almost no cruising speed. and also no stringing. but in some prints you need closed top and bottom. On the wing where the ailerons are, the wing edge is always open, which is bad. I print that in normal mode, all settings the same but without vase mode, just 1 perimeter. How do you do it, or you Troy? Lw PLA ColorFAbb
Hi Troy, I'm trying to print the 3dlabprint piper using these configs but the control horns are not being printed. it only prints the outline. I tried to chang the top/botton configs but it didn't work. What should I do to print it correctly?
Have you used Polymaker PolyLite LW-PLA? It's prefoamed. Just curious.
Hey Troy have you tired Polymaker polylite pre-foamed LW PLA? Trying it out now on my Creality CR SE6. Use same settings as that of normal PLA.
@@Troy--McMillan Hey Troy whats that?
could it be done in petg, and what is the volume of the filling ddo that you indicate
Troy, another solid video. Thanks for sharing. I still cannot wrap my head around the cost of LW PLA but, I suppose the weight is what you are paying for. About how much material do you find you use per plane? I know this is a difficult question as all planes are different, but lets use the Panthera for example.
It expands to twice it's original size so it like having 2 kilos of filament in volume so half the price and you get a better idea of value