Another tip, I'd say quick but it will add extra time. BEFORE you separate the pads and push the pistons back into the calipers, remove the pads and clean the pistons off. You don't want all that brake dust and build up to damage the seals or dirty your fresh brake fluid. After they're clean you can set them in place and use them to compress the pistons back into the caliper.
Weekend Warrior Tips: 1. Most brake fluids are hygroscopic, meaning they will absorb moisture when exposed to air. This is why you dont need to store your brake fluid for an extended amount of time after the seal is broken. 2. Prior to bleeding your brakes, take a Turkey baster and remove the old fluid in your brake reservoir until the fluid level is at the "Low" level. At this time, refill your brake reservoir up to the "Full" mark with the fresh fluid. Follow the steps to bleed your brakes as shown in the video. Keep watch on the fluid level in your reservoir and top it off as needed (re: the fluid level will drop during the bleeding process) . Contine to follow this process until no air bubbles are noticed when you bleed the fluid from your brake lines and the fluid appears as clear as the new fluid you purchased. 3. If your installing new brake pads, do not fill your reservoir to the full mark prior to replacing your pads. If your reservoir is at the full mark and you spread your calipers apart it can push extra fluid into your reservoir which can cause spillage. I would suggest having your brake reservoir apx 7/10ths full and wrap a shop towel around the reservoir to catch any spillage. Once your brake pads are installed , top off of your brake fluid and pump your brakes. 4. Get the brake fluid off of your painted surfaces ASAP, and wash your bike after a brake job regardless if you spilled any fluid or not. Ps: Loved the maintenance tip. A few more topic ideas are: How to lube your chain How to adjust your chain tension How to install a plug in a tire. ( emergency roadside repair until a proper fix is available) How to lube the cables. How to change the coolant. If a Harley, how to swap your air coolant.
@@johnantonopoulous6381 hygroscopic means it pulls moisture from air and absorbs it, hydrophilic describes a different action where a substance will bond with water.
My late wife worked on her first hubby's KZ900, she did chain and both sprokets, front brake pads chsnged the fluid and bled and finished with points and condenser. What she didn't do was to tell hubby, he almost went over the handlebars it had been almost a year since the front worked that well.
Keep one of your old pads front and rear if you are planning to go to the shop and buy new ones. So you can compare the old with new and get exactly what's needed.
You can also use a hand-soap pump for a vacuum device. TH-cam Jennies Garage has a video about it. Not sure how expensive the hand pump is here, but a soap pump is salvage (free)
also something to note when doing this: if you loosen the bleeder nipples too much, you will start drawing air from around the nipple into the brake system, so just loosen it enough that you can feel the brake lever collapse when pulled (the fluid can get out of the system). Usually only an 8th of a turn is enough, maybe a quarter turn.
I always used blue loctite on my brake calipers now. Couple years ago I had a grom for wheelies and off-roading and I changed the brake pads out. I was riding down the road when I heard a loud rattle, so I pulled over and my brake caliper was nearly hanging off the rotor! Haha After that experience I always put loctite on them and torque them down!
Regarding bleeding the brakes: 1. Brake fluid does an amazing job of eating through clear coat and paint; if it does spill, clean it up ASAP. 2. It's always best to start by bleeding the brake furthest away from the master cylinder. On a car/truck, it tends to matter more, but I would do the same thing here, and hit the left side first on the front brake, and then the right side. 3. I'd also check the rotors for any ridges or possible signs of warping, as you're already down there.
i dont own a motorcycle or have any mechanic skills.... but i was a tattoo artist for 7 years, an those gloves are a size to big, thats why you didnt get a dramatic snap :P
The slots are not for heat they are for dust. If the lever was squishy after the bleed,you did not do it right or the piston in the master or the calipers is leaking. Nothing to do with breaker pad life
I do the full brake bleed procedure when replacing the pads, but at the annual maintenance, I use a turkey baster to suck the brake fluid out of both reservoirs and replace it with fresh brake fluid. This is a very easy 80/20 brake fluid replacement - 80% of the benefit from 20% of the effort. The solution to pollution is dilution. It's also a good technique if a bleeder valve is rusted closed, until the caliper is replaced.
@@PetrolJunkie - Yes, the particulate crud mostly stays at the caliper. Some of the finer particles are suspended in the reservoir. The advantage of the turkey baster half flush is in removing the water contaminated brake fluid. I doubt most people replace the brake fluid more often than they replace brake pads, and many people probably flush the brake fluid every other pad replacement. I'm replacing the fluid every time I change the pads, AND I'm sucking out half of the brake fluid and replacing it halfway to the next brake flush and pad replacement, so I figure I'm ahead of the game. I don't ride as much so hygroscopic contamination is a bigger issue for me than particulate contamination... and a lot of that particulate contamination is caused by rust or other breakdown from water in the brake fluid, so I'm reducing both forms of contamination by getting the water out of the brake fluid sooner. To be clear, I'm not recommending the reservoir fluid replacement instead of a full flush and fill, but rather in addition to it.
I bought motorcycle month ago, everything looked normal and clean from outside, my first bike... then I've started changing all the fluids, brake fluid was black, engine oil black, coolant old and not enough, tires 9 years old 🤣 got my lesson, don't fantasize about your motorcycle, just check it out!!!
Great editing and clarity on this, Spite (and anyone else that helped). I’m really liking the work you guys have been putting in in escalating the production quality. I think continuing a series like this would be great for the channel, especially to help flesh out the backbone of your content (beginner/intermediate rider content).
So I have a massive 2.5 gallon vacuum fluid extractor that I use around the shop. You can Normally find them for like twice the price of a hand held vacuum pump. They make them externally powered and like with a bike pump on them. I have the type you pump down yourself. Basically can put one of the big jumbo size bottles of brake fluid through the system to flush it out good without having to pump the brakes more than needed to clean the master cylinder out. The nice thing about that device is that you can also suck out other fluids from the top in situations like if you over fill your oil or radiator fluid without the mess of pulling the drain plug. Also, if you have ABS, do your best to not let your reservoir run dry while you are bleeding out. Most ABS blocks are a pain in the tookus to bleed. Some you are lucky to have a bleeder on. Others you have to pull out and turn upside down to bleed properly. Just easier to keep that MF full at all times and just suck out any excess when your job is done.
Can we get more regular maintenance videos? I'm a fairly new rider, so I'm always looking for an entertaining way to learn stuff... Oil changes, chain care, and cable adjustment are just a few things I don't enjoy overpaying for. (although I did figure out chain care simply because I'm not about to ride to a dealer every 500ish miles.)
* Bonus tip no.1: The more the pads are worn down, the more the pistons bulge out of the caliper body thus becoming more exposed to the elements, and they do like to collect dirt, so before re-compressing them back in to the caliper, take a tooth brush, some brake cleaner, and thoroughly clean them back to their shiny finish, otherwise the dirt on them may damage the rubber seals upon compression, or you'll be introducing the dirt stuck on them in to the brake fluid. /Anyone who has ever rebuilt a brake caliper will understand/ Bonus tip no.2 /learnt this one from Dave Moss Tuning/: Before tightening down the brake calipers, with them slightly loose still, lift the front forks on a stand, spin the wheel then brake .. do this several times: spin - brake, spin - brake .. and then with one hand firmly grasping on the brake lever, re-tighten the caliper bolts with the other hand ✋ on both sides /if you can't reach, get yourself a longer set of arms, or ask someone to help you/, do this with the fluid reservoir still open. By this you're aligning your brake pads with your brake DISCS which will prevent, or at least minimise uneven brake pad ware ..
I really enjoy your videos. Bought a pair of gloves from you guys but you didn't have a jacket in my size. I would like to see a video on expected items to see in maintenance on different brands of motorcycles. In comparing the Ducati and Triumph Scramblers you mentioned that we should expect more maintenance for the Ducati and the trouble finding neutral. That stood out to me because it is hard to find Neutral on my Dyna, such a pain sometimes. That is something I would like to see more of in your videos...if possible. Thanks for all your help. I want to get a new bike and still looking.
Thanks I been meaning to do my mt10 brakes but have been putting it off. I just lifted the tank and did spark plugs, oil change, chain clean and tighten. And holy Christ does the spark plugs on a mt10 suck to change
Heyo y'all! Props to Spite, Yam, and the YN team for this vid. Straight to the point, and the brake lever on my CB750 feels more confidence inspiring than ever. Keep up the great work, and g'day from the land of kangaroos. Too bad I can't ship a giveaway bike from Texas to Sydney; I legit bought a tee, hat, and a sticker for my toolbox. Peace out.
Something to add. If you are using a vacumm gun to bleed the brakes, DO NOT let the brake fluid touch the gun. It'll eat out the o-rings that pull the vacuum and you just trashed the gun. Keep an eye on the bottle and empty it out after every caliper to ensure you never get it too full EDIT: Regarding the shape of brake pads... WATCH OUT for symmetrical pads (right set and left set VS four of the same). On the Suzuki V-strom DL1000 that I had the pads on the right were symmetrical as the ones on the left. So they had different reference numbers, they could only go in one way, and the first time was a shit show 😂😂🙈
You guys are going big on Rockform and quadlock.. I've probably watched 150 of these videos from you guys in the last 3 weeks. Videos from 3 ish years ago say things like, "keep it in your pockets because it's another thing you sqidlits have to take your eyes off the road." Videos from 2 ish years ago were all about quadlock. Now it's Rockform. For the record I'm all caught up. This is the first video I've seen that was posted the same day and Yams isn't my papa... 🤨 Is it spite or Spike? Either way these videos have been treating you well. Your density has increased substantially over the years of videos I've been watching. Don't worry though. Your not the only large mamel riding bikes. Ofcourse you do look a bit silly on a liter. 😂🤣😅
I have 19 GSXR 600 and I bleed my brakes for the first time (followed the previous video you made on brake bleeding, thank you Spite)…it really doesn’t need anything special and I was able to do it, but the prep/setting up was annoying…for what ever reason, Suzuki decided to put the bleeder ports for the front brake on the inside of the caliper…why, just why??? So I had to take the front wheel off…
12:13 - "BREAK PADS"? Come on! It's spelled "brake". Whoever makes the video title graphics is probably the same person who types "muzzle break" instead of "muzzle brake"..
@@P1cwh0r3 - It was the Yammie Noob video editing guy. It's all his fault. Woe be unto him. Papa Yam has no tolerance for imperfection. He is a loving god, but a vengeful god when provoked.
Isn't "bleeding brakes" just pulling enough to get air out of the system and solid fluid flow? I believe this is demonstrating how to change out brake system fluid.
Great tutorial. It seems the vacuum kit would save a lot of work and headache. I have a question about torque. wrenches. Years ago I had one that had a thin metal rod with a pointer. I was careful with it bit In was never sure of it. Do you have recommendations on torque wrenches? Maybe even part of a YN video.
Good video. I'm pretty sure that a tightly closed cap on a bottle of brake fluid that's been previously opened still counts as a "sealed container". Most of that guidance goes back to days when stuff like this came in metal cans that couldn't be properly resealed.
If UV is so bad, why do so many bikes have clear reservoirs?? And also, If Rokform paid me, I'd say their mount is the best too, for the fact they make me money. But until then, my $20 mount with the sides that thumbscrew clamp the phone, and has a built in charger, is wayyyyy better. My handlebar will break (brake?😂) off before the phone does. Debris hits that rokform turning it all lefty loosy in a 70mph wind, bye bye $1000 phone. But mainly my first question.
I’ve bleed my brakes, replaced master cylinder internals and bleed my brakes again and my brake lever gains pressure but after a few hours it’s spongy again. Don’t know if it is my master cylinder or brake pads
DO NOT let the calipers hang by the brake line like Spite did. It is horrible for your brake lines and can stretch them. If your brake lines stretch you won't ever have the right pressure even if you bleed them and will need to replace your lines. This coming from a motorcycle tech in training.
Go with the Duke. Spend some time on a standard motorcycle which does everything decently enough.. Then after some riding experience you'll know what kind of riding you like..
Protect your phone with the YN tested and approved Rokform case! glnk.io/3rj1/yammie-noob Code “YN25” is 25% off!
Hey Yam, just a heads up, you've got a scammer on here using your name.
Another tip, I'd say quick but it will add extra time. BEFORE you separate the pads and push the pistons back into the calipers, remove the pads and clean the pistons off. You don't want all that brake dust and build up to damage the seals or dirty your fresh brake fluid. After they're clean you can set them in place and use them to compress the pistons back into the caliper.
What do we use to clean the pistons with?
@@alexanderlee7247 brake cleaner
Weekend Warrior Tips:
1. Most brake fluids are hygroscopic, meaning they will absorb moisture when exposed to air. This is why you dont need to store your brake fluid for an extended amount of time after the seal is broken.
2. Prior to bleeding your brakes, take a Turkey baster and remove the old fluid in your brake reservoir until the fluid level is at the "Low" level. At this time, refill your brake reservoir up to the "Full" mark with the fresh fluid. Follow the steps to bleed your brakes as shown in the video. Keep watch on the fluid level in your reservoir and top it off as needed (re: the fluid level will drop during the bleeding process) . Contine to follow this process until no air bubbles are noticed when you bleed the fluid from your brake lines and the fluid appears as clear as the new fluid you purchased.
3. If your installing new brake pads, do not fill your reservoir to the full mark prior to replacing your pads. If your reservoir is at the full mark and you spread your calipers apart it can push extra fluid into your reservoir which can cause spillage. I would suggest having your brake reservoir apx 7/10ths full and wrap a shop towel around the reservoir to catch any spillage. Once your brake pads are installed , top off of your brake fluid and pump your brakes.
4. Get the brake fluid off of your painted surfaces ASAP, and wash your bike after a brake job regardless if you spilled any fluid or not.
Ps: Loved the maintenance tip. A few more topic ideas are:
How to lube your chain
How to adjust your chain tension
How to install a plug in a tire. ( emergency roadside repair until a proper fix is available)
How to lube the cables.
How to change the coolant.
If a Harley, how to swap your air coolant.
I think you mean hydrophilic. Hydro meaning water and philic like friend. Otherwise better tips than the video
@@johnantonopoulous6381 hygroscopic means it pulls moisture from air and absorbs it, hydrophilic describes a different action where a substance will bond with water.
When talking about bolts, "sometimes they go easy, sometimes they don't" really sums up working on cars/trucks/motorcycles 😆
My late wife worked on her first hubby's KZ900, she did chain and both sprokets, front brake pads chsnged the fluid and bled and finished with points and condenser. What she didn't do was to tell hubby, he almost went over the handlebars it had been almost a year since the front worked that well.
Perhaps the nondisclosure was intentional. 😉
Was not telling him an oversight...or attempted murder? She's obviously moved on. : )
I use a piece of tube with a one way valve so you only have to crack the bleed nipple once and pump the lever while topping up fluid. Cost about £3 👍🏻
Want to make break blessing stupid easy?
Russell Speed Bleeders.
Install them and you won't need 4 hands or special tools/pumps.
As a mechanic myself I have to say: Excellent tutorial on how brakes should be bled👍
Keep one of your old pads front and rear if you are planning to go to the shop and buy new ones. So you can compare the old with new and get exactly what's needed.
I'm a noob to motorcycle maintenance so this video is very helpful.
Offering my BMW with ABS and boosted brakes for a bleed-job. You're gonna love it, LOL!
Yammies alright but you’re the man! I’m adding this to my to do list for the bike before I go for my mini adventure around Colorado.
You can also use a hand-soap pump for a vacuum device. TH-cam Jennies Garage has a video about it. Not sure how expensive the hand pump is here, but a soap pump is salvage (free)
also something to note when doing this: if you loosen the bleeder nipples too much, you will start drawing air from around the nipple into the brake system, so just loosen it enough that you can feel the brake lever collapse when pulled (the fluid can get out of the system). Usually only an 8th of a turn is enough, maybe a quarter turn.
Motorbike maintenance and rebuilding is my enjoyment time and what I do to relax and all my bikes run at 100%
I always used blue loctite on my brake calipers now. Couple years ago I had a grom for wheelies and off-roading and I changed the brake pads out. I was riding down the road when I heard a loud rattle, so I pulled over and my brake caliper was nearly hanging off the rotor! Haha After that experience I always put loctite on them and torque them down!
Very good explanation for the uninitiated, and even the veteran. Covered it quite well.
Regarding bleeding the brakes:
1. Brake fluid does an amazing job of eating through clear coat and paint; if it does spill, clean it up ASAP.
2. It's always best to start by bleeding the brake furthest away from the master cylinder. On a car/truck, it tends to matter more, but I would do the same thing here, and hit the left side first on the front brake, and then the right side.
3. I'd also check the rotors for any ridges or possible signs of warping, as you're already down there.
i dont own a motorcycle or have any mechanic skills.... but i was a tattoo artist for 7 years, an those gloves are a size to big, thats why you didnt get a dramatic snap :P
The slots are not for heat they are for dust. If the lever was squishy after the bleed,you did not do it right or the piston in the master or the calipers is leaking. Nothing to do with breaker pad life
I do the full brake bleed procedure when replacing the pads, but at the annual maintenance, I use a turkey baster to suck the brake fluid out of both reservoirs and replace it with fresh brake fluid. This is a very easy 80/20 brake fluid replacement - 80% of the benefit from 20% of the effort. The solution to pollution is dilution. It's also a good technique if a bleeder valve is rusted closed, until the caliper is replaced.
@@PetrolJunkie - Yes, the particulate crud mostly stays at the caliper. Some of the finer particles are suspended in the reservoir. The advantage of the turkey baster half flush is in removing the water contaminated brake fluid. I doubt most people replace the brake fluid more often than they replace brake pads, and many people probably flush the brake fluid every other pad replacement. I'm replacing the fluid every time I change the pads, AND I'm sucking out half of the brake fluid and replacing it halfway to the next brake flush and pad replacement, so I figure I'm ahead of the game. I don't ride as much so hygroscopic contamination is a bigger issue for me than particulate contamination... and a lot of that particulate contamination is caused by rust or other breakdown from water in the brake fluid, so I'm reducing both forms of contamination by getting the water out of the brake fluid sooner. To be clear, I'm not recommending the reservoir fluid replacement instead of a full flush and fill, but rather in addition to it.
+100 for the cleaner aspect of using a bleed kit.
I bought motorcycle month ago, everything looked normal and clean from outside, my first bike... then I've started changing all the fluids, brake fluid was black, engine oil black, coolant old and not enough, tires 9 years old 🤣 got my lesson, don't fantasize about your motorcycle, just check it out!!!
This is so what every rider needs to know. Your breaks are your LIFE! Do not neglect them!
BRAKES, not breaks.
🤷♂️ I actually typed brakes, but auto correct decided it was better than me. So I couldn’t care less.
Great editing and clarity on this, Spite (and anyone else that helped). I’m really liking the work you guys have been putting in in escalating the production quality.
I think continuing a series like this would be great for the channel, especially to help flesh out the backbone of your content (beginner/intermediate rider content).
Speed Bleeders make brake bleeding a breeze too. If you can find them for your bike definitely get them.
So I have a massive 2.5 gallon vacuum fluid extractor that I use around the shop. You can Normally find them for like twice the price of a hand held vacuum pump. They make them externally powered and like with a bike pump on them. I have the type you pump down yourself. Basically can put one of the big jumbo size bottles of brake fluid through the system to flush it out good without having to pump the brakes more than needed to clean the master cylinder out. The nice thing about that device is that you can also suck out other fluids from the top in situations like if you over fill your oil or radiator fluid without the mess of pulling the drain plug.
Also, if you have ABS, do your best to not let your reservoir run dry while you are bleeding out. Most ABS blocks are a pain in the tookus to bleed. Some you are lucky to have a bleeder on. Others you have to pull out and turn upside down to bleed properly. Just easier to keep that MF full at all times and just suck out any excess when your job is done.
I was going to hold my tongue if it was just "bike bleader kit" (5:03), but did I just see "break pads" (12:13) too? Did I miss any?
Can we get more regular maintenance videos? I'm a fairly new rider, so I'm always looking for an entertaining way to learn stuff... Oil changes, chain care, and cable adjustment are just a few things I don't enjoy overpaying for. (although I did figure out chain care simply because I'm not about to ride to a dealer every 500ish miles.)
My least favorite job is bleeding air from brake or clutch lines xD
Lol yammie. That outtro, wtf. I also have the strange desire to watch more now for some reason.
* Bonus tip no.1: The more the pads are worn down, the more the pistons bulge out of the caliper body thus becoming more exposed to the elements, and they do like to collect dirt, so before re-compressing them back in to the caliper, take a tooth brush, some brake cleaner, and thoroughly clean them back to their shiny finish, otherwise the dirt on them may damage the rubber seals upon compression, or you'll be introducing the dirt stuck on them in to the brake fluid. /Anyone who has ever rebuilt a brake caliper will understand/
Bonus tip no.2 /learnt this one from Dave Moss Tuning/: Before tightening down the brake calipers, with them slightly loose still, lift the front forks on a stand, spin the wheel then brake .. do this several times: spin - brake, spin - brake .. and then with one hand firmly grasping on the brake lever, re-tighten the caliper bolts with the other hand ✋ on both sides /if you can't reach, get yourself a longer set of arms, or ask someone to help you/, do this with the fluid reservoir still open. By this you're aligning your brake pads with your brake DISCS which will prevent, or at least minimise uneven brake pad ware ..
I really enjoy your videos. Bought a pair of gloves from you guys but you didn't have a jacket in my size. I would like to see a video on expected items to see in maintenance on different brands of motorcycles. In comparing the Ducati and Triumph Scramblers you mentioned that we should expect more maintenance for the Ducati and the trouble finding neutral. That stood out to me because it is hard to find Neutral on my Dyna, such a pain sometimes. That is something I would like to see more of in your videos...if possible. Thanks for all your help. I want to get a new bike and still looking.
Thank you for this great tutorial on bleeding brake fluid.
Thanks for the montage. It's the only way I learn.
Before I put my glasses on I thought the thumbnail was Brandon Herrera
I like the brake fluid pour spout idea.
Thanks I been meaning to do my mt10 brakes but have been putting it off. I just lifted the tank and did spark plugs, oil change, chain clean and tighten. And holy Christ does the spark plugs on a mt10 suck to change
Heyo y'all! Props to Spite, Yam, and the YN team for this vid. Straight to the point, and the brake lever on my CB750 feels more confidence inspiring than ever. Keep up the great work, and g'day from the land of kangaroos.
Too bad I can't ship a giveaway bike from Texas to Sydney; I legit bought a tee, hat, and a sticker for my toolbox. Peace out.
Brake fluid and water go together SUPER well, it's just bad for your brakes.
Thanks for that useful demonstration.
Something to add. If you are using a vacumm gun to bleed the brakes, DO NOT let the brake fluid touch the gun. It'll eat out the o-rings that pull the vacuum and you just trashed the gun. Keep an eye on the bottle and empty it out after every caliper to ensure you never get it too full
EDIT: Regarding the shape of brake pads... WATCH OUT for symmetrical pads (right set and left set VS four of the same). On the Suzuki V-strom DL1000 that I had the pads on the right were symmetrical as the ones on the left. So they had different reference numbers, they could only go in one way, and the first time was a shit show 😂😂🙈
Great video! More maintenance videos please!
You guys are going big on Rockform and quadlock.. I've probably watched 150 of these videos from you guys in the last 3 weeks.
Videos from 3 ish years ago say things like, "keep it in your pockets because it's another thing you sqidlits have to take your eyes off the road."
Videos from 2 ish years ago were all about quadlock. Now it's Rockform.
For the record I'm all caught up. This is the first video I've seen that was posted the same day and Yams isn't my papa... 🤨
Is it spite or Spike? Either way these videos have been treating you well. Your density has increased substantially over the years of videos I've been watching. Don't worry though. Your not the only large mamel riding bikes. Ofcourse you do look a bit silly on a liter. 😂🤣😅
Awesome thumbnail guys 🤟
Great tutorial, looks easy. Thanks you.
Bach. Cello suite nr 1. For People wondering
Where's all the jazz on cleaning the brakes before putting it all back together?
I have 19 GSXR 600 and I bleed my brakes for the first time (followed the previous video you made on brake bleeding, thank you Spite)…it really doesn’t need anything special and I was able to do it, but the prep/setting up was annoying…for what ever reason, Suzuki decided to put the bleeder ports for the front brake on the inside of the caliper…why, just why??? So I had to take the front wheel off…
So actually you do need an extra tool. A torque wrench
When he said that he was only talking about bleeding the breaks.
Very helpful, thank you 😎
no text in thumbnail. nice!
12:13 - "BREAK PADS"? Come on! It's spelled "brake". Whoever makes the video title graphics is probably the same person who types "muzzle break" instead of "muzzle brake"..
Yammie san dose nut make mistakes. It had two bee on porpoise.
@@P1cwh0r3 - It was the Yammie Noob video editing guy. It's all his fault. Woe be unto him. Papa Yam has no tolerance for imperfection. He is a loving god, but a vengeful god when provoked.
Isn't "bleeding brakes" just pulling enough to get air out of the system and solid fluid flow?
I believe this is demonstrating how to change out brake system fluid.
@@PetrolJunkie true, just the terms I grew up with.
Great tutorial. It seems the vacuum kit would save a lot of work and headache. I have a question about torque. wrenches. Years ago I had one that had a thin metal rod with a pointer. I was careful with it bit In was never sure of it. Do you have recommendations on torque wrenches? Maybe even part of a YN video.
What I heard is you could get a cheap luggage scale and hook it on the center of the grip part, then pull to see if the click matches the scales.
Harbor freight pittsburgh click style. Reasonable quality for home use and only 25 bucks. Harbor freight has a lot of decent hand tools.
how about reverse bleeding? draining the the fluid then injecting the new fluid from the brakes...
thanks good thing i didnt try it on my bike..
I love Spite
Good video.
I'm pretty sure that a tightly closed cap on a bottle of brake fluid that's been previously opened still counts as a "sealed container". Most of that guidance goes back to days when stuff like this came in metal cans that couldn't be properly resealed.
2 callipers 1 cup?
Good explanations Spite.
Good video Spite
Instead of “you’ll thank yourself later”, you should have said “you’ll be around to thank yourself later.”
THANK YOU !
If UV is so bad, why do so many bikes have clear reservoirs??
And also, If Rokform paid me, I'd say their mount is the best too, for the fact they make me money. But until then, my $20 mount with the sides that thumbscrew clamp the phone, and has a built in charger, is wayyyyy better. My handlebar will break (brake?😂) off before the phone does. Debris hits that rokform turning it all lefty loosy in a 70mph wind, bye bye $1000 phone.
But mainly my first question.
More of these, please lol
Edit: Wtf, YT unsubbed me. Peeps, check you're still subbed to papa yam
Great video 🏍️👍
I thought they were gonna say blew chew at the start
I’ve bleed my brakes, replaced master cylinder internals and bleed my brakes again and my brake lever gains pressure but after a few hours it’s spongy again. Don’t know if it is my master cylinder or brake pads
"Break Pads?" Come on, guys...
SCIENCE!
Get a res sock. They work'
DO NOT let the calipers hang by the brake line like Spite did. It is horrible for your brake lines and can stretch them. If your brake lines stretch you won't ever have the right pressure even if you bleed them and will need to replace your lines. This coming from a motorcycle tech in training.
Before you start do do any maintenance on a bike, buy a decent hand impact tool, without one, you'll strip the heads on every screw you try to remove.
And JIS screwdrivers/tips
yeah
Nope, take it to the shop...
You didn't lub the pins witch will cause the pads to stick please lube the pins
Soooo.. what about a rear drum break?
They are usually entirely mechanical in motorcycles. They use wires, levers and springs to operate, there are no fluids to bleed.
Rokform does not work on the Pixel 6 Pro
JIS (Japanese Institute of Standards) screwdrivers for Japanese bikes ?
Seems like a whole lot of hassle. In my country, we only need to pay for the stuff that need to be replaced. The rest? They're free!
Maintenance? I thought you were a Harley guy. 😂
I feel like no one changes their brake fluid. Every vehicle I've ever bought has had Coca-Cola in the brake lines.
So your'e telling me a parts store gave you the wrong parts?!?! That would never happen.
Soooooo about the shirt...
Don't tell ME what to do.
B L E A D E R
How Tall is Yammie?
Hello
First i need a bike do you recommend duke 250 or rc 200 for beginner 🌚🙏🏻
Turbo-busa
Go with the Duke. Spend some time on a standard motorcycle which does everything decently enough.. Then after some riding experience you'll know what kind of riding you like..
@@polo-wv2gs 🥴🫂damm 300hp
@@amaymishra814 aight thanks alot i get it now
Uh no. I’ll let the shop whack my card.
You'd be shocked with how easy it is when you actually get into it.
Yeesh. The guy from MC Garage isn't as handsome as he used to be!
🤣🤣
@@eddaugherty335 I think this went over a lot of people's heads.
These Vids Are SO GOOD! 🙂🔥