Is This Dumpster Hisense TV Worth Repairing?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
- Is this Hisense dumpster dive TV worth repairing?
My money is on a dodgy T-con board.
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#ElectronicsCreators #Repair - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
TCON boards are Timing Controller boards. They're there to adapt the LCD timing to the video processor timing. Back in the old days, you'd traditionally hook an LCD controller up to the display, and then you'd have to configure the controller with the exact LCD timings as provided by the manufacturer. So you'd have to figure out a suitable pixel clock, then appropriate front and back porch settings to make sure that your screen is centered (get the front/back porch setting wrong and the screen will be off-center and usually it's not obvious). Or drive it at the wrong frequency and you'd get weird artifacts showing on the screen like rippling and shimmering. This was compounded even worse by all the LCD controllers out there so in the end, the manufacturer datasheet served as initial values you'd program into the registers, but it almost always never worked off the bat and you have to tweak and adjust by trial and error until it looked right. And if you ever played with display timing formulas, it's a big mess of math trying to get all the parameters right.
Sharp was one of the first back then to pioneer the use of TCON boards - I know because everytime we'd consider a Sharp panel, the first consideration was the expense of the LCD control board (TCON hadn't quite become common vernacular yet). But the purpose of the board was basically to standardize this a lot - the TCON board had specific timing, but in general, as long as you got close, you got a perfect image.
Use of TCON boards accelerated with HDTV adoption as HDTV display timings are well standardized so what happens is that the video processor board would then output a signal that was basically standard and input it into a TCON board which would adapt it to the precise timing that particular LCD display required - the panel manufacturer would tweak the TCON board timings to what the actual physical display required then basically bundle the display and TCON together. This also provided a measure of isolation between the physical LCD interface itself and the interface to the video processor - which is vital as high speed signalling is quite tricky and TCON boards often have massively parallel output cabling so the only high data rate comes from the video processor to TCON board and the TCON board then converts that into a slower data rate for the panel itself by sending multiple pixels of data at once.
As for what's wrong, I'm almost certain there's no electrical fault with the display. It's a software fault. The Hisense logo is being displayed by the bootloader, but the bootloader is unable to load the main display firmware OS (probably Linux to handle "smart" features - hence the Ethernet port). So one of the blinks happens when the bootloader transfers control to the kernel where the video output is briefly disabled and then re-enabled, and the rest of it is probably when the kernel tries to load the TV application and either it crashes or the application crashes and is attempting to re-start. When it does this, it starts to tear down the display framebuffer, but crashes before it's able to display anything and leaving the framebuffer intact but the shadowing caused by the hardware being deinitialized/reinitialized. It's not worth fixing, but it might be useful for an exploratory video - Dave just got a piece of electronics he doesn't care about, so go wild exploring around - perhaps there's a serial port header to which one can poke around with. There's nothing worth saving, so it's worth it just to have a "play around" board where you can pretend to reverse engineer the board and "hack" it. And if it lets out the magic smoke, so be it. I say don't make it a repair video, make it a reverse engineering and exploration video, teach people the ways of things like JTAG and serial ports and I2C and other things. Solder things to it to explore signals. It's worth it because the electronics is probably working, the software's corrupt (and you probably can't fix that - I don't think Hisense makes the firmware available), so explore around with something you don't care about, you don't know anything about, but is essentially working. It's how people reverse engineer stuff all the time except if you screw it, it costs nothing and you learned something.
Amazing knowledge! Thank you for sharing I really enjoyed reading. 👍
I second this idea
Yep. Well said
If it's a common chasis, like a Vestel, it could be fixed via USB. Firmware is available on some dodgy sites.
If you ask support, you might be able to get the firmware - if hisense still has it. Older stuff they may not keep the files around.
It's likely stuck in a boot loop. Taken from AV forums:
Hope this helps others when stuck in a boot loop...
- The TV loop can be paused for 10-20sec by holding down any button on the remote. As soon as you let go of the button it reboots.
- You need two remotes, Get either a learning remote, spare remote or Firestick remote that is setup to control the volume. Hold the volume up button on the spare remote to pause the loop.
- using the original remote press the menu button and quickly go down to about and factory reset. Have to do it quick.
Sorted.. Until the next time at least!
👍 good to know.TY
I have an exactly similar Hisense unit. The problem is the TV works fine for some time and out of a sudden the screen goes off with sound and backlight on. And, when I power off and turn the TV on, it starts working fine and the problem repeats randomly. What do you the problem is?
If you haven't tried already; Unplug the TV and leave it unplugged for a few minutes before plugging it back in. If the problem still occurs try and factory reset. That will rule out any software problems.
Hardware faults:
If it's still a problem try a different HDMI cable or port (if using HDMI).
Make sure the TV is away from sources of heat, the panel may shut off if it overheats. If you shine a torch on it whilst it's off but the sound is on and you see there's a picture, that will tell you if it's a backlight power issue.
Anything further to this is likely going to be a hardware issue with the main/power/backlight board.
I fix a lot of crap that's not worth fixing and convince myself I'm having fun doing it. That's what an electronics hobbyist essentially is.
Re-seating all cables is worth a try - I've resolved glitchy LCD issues before by just removing / re-inserting all cables. Bad contact could easily disrupt the clock / a data line.
Tried it, it's not that.
Agree
Hi Dave, I'm from Argentina, I work in a technical service workshop, and that Hisense brand exists here, together with Konka brand (which is more dodgy than Hisense). They are matrix tvs because here the government import those from China, and here in Tierra del Fuego they deal with assembling and rebranding them with Tophouse/Noblex/Philco/Jvc/Tcl/Hitachi... (there are a lot) oem brands that are the most common to see. And they use hisense, AUO or Chimei Innolux panel assembly (or display only) for others tvs including philips/aoc brand, we use leftover parts what we have on hand at the moment.
In my opinion this TV has two flaws and not one. The fact that it stays at the logo and does nothing else is a firmware problem, that's easy to solve in 98% of cases with a flash drive, the other 2% is more complex, the deal involves desolder the bios spi or worse, the emmc nand flash, rewrite them and put it back on (not worth fixing it if a emmc is envolved) but that is not the image fault, and here is why.
That exact same image failure I see that often on several tvs in working condition, by mean not having boot loop or any problems with the software. So in my opinion not a software only problem, and is not the smps or the main board, the fault is directly the display panel or something odd in the attached pcb, the T-con i don't think so, but who knows.
Maybe a data line is shorted as it happens in Samsung and Sony tvs that double/triple image appears, to fix that you need to cut the stvp stv ckv ckvb data lines (a new display is the real solution but is too expensive or not available) by doing that you lose some definition, however in a full hd 1080p is not too noticeable. In samsung and Sony I do it more often but in these other televisions I do not repair this type of failure those are not worth it.
Cheers!
Display side is probably OK. It looks like the OS is stuck in a bootloop. Hard to tell what's wrong without seeing the actual bootlog. There should be pins for UART or JTAG somewhere. My very wild guess is it's either bad eMMC or corrupt NVRAM.
My favorite thing about Dave's repair videos is that he repairs things the way I do. Open it up, "yeah, there's some caps and chokes and stuff. Voltages are probably fine. I dont see any problems, so it probably can't be fixed"
It's not that it can't be fixed, it whether it's worth spendign the time to fix it or not.
I think Tim knows that.. 🤣
how I wish I can spend time investigating on issue like the old days when I had plenty of personal time, I used the love the moment something breaks 😅
@@EEVblog2 Anyone can fix anything given enough time and money. Great Vid!
Other TH-cam videos suggest holding the power button (on the tv) to reset it. Unplug, hold power button. Plug in, hold power button until it resets and starts. Not sure if that helps, but it's simple so might be worth a try.
1. firmware corrupted
2. solid caps don't bulge usually, in my experience, high esr usually. Try checking with oscilloscope.
3. nvram corrupted? desolder, write FF with programmator and solder back in. Usually very small memory size in sop8 package (backup the content incase...).
4. sometimes menu is unaccessible when hdmi cable is not connected, you could try that. Then in menu, factory reset.
Googled abit and someone on avforums wrote that they asked for fw from Hisense and they provided, worth a try?
It would be alot more interesting you fixing the tv, i know its not worth much, but you get interesting content for the channel and someone potentially searching for a fix might stumble on your video. Know it might be alot more work, but for the greater good?
If it's not a high end scope, it's not worth taking :D
I once got a dead 50" Blaupunkt TV from my friends. Recapacitulation, EEPROM programming & swap, and it's good as new. Took me 30PLN (ca 7 yankeebucks at that time). Now it makes a lean mean movie watching screen.
I have an exactly similar Hisense unit. The problem is the TV works fine for some time and out of a sudden the screen goes off with sound and backlight on. And, when I power off and turn the TV on, it starts working fine and the problem repeats randomly. What do you the problem is?
@@sandeshchhetry2993 that might be image processor's power converters, or the chip's BGA going awry. Can't tell without checking...
I found a 58 inch 4k hisense in the dumpster. I replaced all the led strips for $35 works great so far.
It’s always a crapacitor Dave
Hisense, Vestel, TCL, UMC, COMPAL are all huge consumer electronic companies who build for all the major brands throughout the world with the exception of LG and Samsung ( who also manufacture in China amongst other places) however they do share their screen technology with other OEMs. In short - you don't know what you're buying behind the badge.
Re: Samsung: I thought so too, but I read recently that Samsung doesn’t make its own TVs any more (or at least, doesn’t make its own panels any more; I forget).
@@tookitogo doesn't make lcds anymore, they are going all-in on oled
@@girogiacomo Which is a shame, I personally hate oled because of burn-in, I don't enjoy having to baby stupid modern displays to keep them from going pink.
@@vgamesx1 take a look at the new qd-oled tech from samsung... LTT has done some great videos on the topic and apparently they are confident enough to have solved the burn-in issue that alienware is making gaming monitors with samsung's panels... try to search for "samsung just made everything else obsolete" it's sponsored by samsung so take it with a gigantic grain of salt but it seems really good, so good that linus bought a sony tv with that panel tech as his main tv in his house
@@girogiacomo You're drifting from the subject , the discussion was regarding the mass budget to mid range product.
Check the main 240v filter caps, had an Aldi tv where it got stuck at power on, I think it was getting reset 100 times a second, but got better after it warmed up.
I would probably have put the feet back on with the back cover off to get it on the bench.
Try to get to the console. It's typically available on a header or via the headphone socket. (often the output will be open collector) That way you get a rather intuitive command line with help and I think even auto-completion. It's likely to run some m-star (or mediatek) firmware. I used to have fairly decent Grundig which died when one of the flash chips developed a fault. You could nicely see Linux booting and then the set shutting itself off when it detected the file system error. Reflashing didn't work.
It was common for the cheaper tv's flash to corrupt. you could try reflashing firmware.
Where would you get a firmware image for something like this?
@@cmdstraker lmao
I dont suspect an eletronic fault but rather it could be ROM corruption as the flicker pattern is similar to ROM corruption. I observed this on phones and tablets where the system boot loops and gets fixed post ROM reflashing.
at 3:48 i see a UART port (conn name: XP3), may be you can hook up an FTDI Dongle and check the dump.
I personally can't relate the flicker directly to the corruption of a memory chip, but not getting past the "boot screen" may be indicative of such an issue.
Was does it change with time?
@@EEVblog2 That is a very good question that could only be answered by finding the answer.
I onced fixed a sharp TV that was frozen at boot. I re-flowed the main board (controller/brains board) using a hot air gun & some flux and it came back to life :)
hot air the cpu, ive done it to a tv to repair it and still works to this day after 6 months. No where on the net anyone said you could fix it with hot air so i decided to try it anyway before buying a new board and it worked wonders. It was doing similar things where it would stay black screen or not boot.
Correct... I did this with a nice LG 42" TV. Low heat gun for 30 seconds (after previous warm up) and then re-paste CPU. Works great. Before the repair the TV would turn on power light, then flash the light after CPU failed to operate.
It's always worth repairing since you're making a TH-cam video out of it. I've seen people repair much less significant things and make an interesting video.
I agree, a repair video is always valuable to someone plus the knowledge gained is priceless
Yep that's what a watch these videos for but seems to be happening less of late.
Good comment
I agree, plus if you do make it work, you get yourself a free tv!
Fixed a plasma Samsung TV a couple of weeks ago. As you said, you can just remove the back while the tv is standing up.
Turned out all it needed with a little knock on a relay with the back of a screwdriver. It had been sitting unused for a couple of years and wouldn't turn on.
I have similar problem with my 55" Philips, there are horizontal lines flickering from one side of the screen to about middle. Screen isn't broken, it just happened one day. I guess its tcon fail, but unfortunately it's integrated into that board glued to LCD panel. Currently repairing it is over my skills...
Put a scope on the power supply board output it may give a better indication of the true output rather than a standard meter.
first malfunction - flickering picture is usual problem for AUO panels - shorted esd diodes on ckv lines ( on different edges of panel boards ) or bad gate drivers in panel glass . try to isolate ckv lines on bad side . freezing hisense logo is bad firmware
I do TV repairs daily n that can be fixed by cutting the correct clock lines to the display on some it's the CKV & CKVB lines but first make sure VGH, VGL, VDD voltages at the display are correct & stable.
I’ve owned two hisense TV’s and they never gave me any problems. I did on the other hand have you return a 50 inch TCL earlier this year with a dodgy pink line across the top of the display. I have a Samsung now and am quite happy with it
I had a Hisense TV for many years. It never gave me a minutes trouble. Then I got a larger Samsung, and gave the Hisense TV to a friend and he put it in a guest room and it’s still working. Not too shabby.
I’d scope the back lighting power supply. Looks like a timing glitch from the T-con board. I would remove and spray the connectors with DeOxit D5 and give that a go. After that would be remove the boards and have a good look under the microscope for cracked solder joints on all the surface mounted stuff.
to me looks like a chip reset issue - that boot screen flickering might be rebooting and showing boot screen all over again. Display and all dumb logic might be fine, but the smart part with data and stuff might be dead.
More like task for oscilloscope and probing data lines if you know, what you should see. But I doubt it is worth doing that except trying to save the earth from more junk and then giving it away to a family in need.
Remove, rubber clean and reseat all the flex cables first.
Seen that type of glitch many times on the screen side where the panel is not right. Look at the caps and semiconductors (any tranis or diodes) on the panel PCBs first. They used to put those PCBs at the top of the panels but heat turned out to be an issue with the heat and press tab connection tape, so now they are all at the bottom. People clean the screens and liquids run down onto the tabs and pcbs there. Electrolysis does the rest.
The panel will probably have side tabs with chips on them as well. One of them may not be powered properly anymore and it stops feeding the serial data properly and the XY image gets out of sync vertically. There are thin tracks on the panel mask that transfer power and data to those chips. You can test to see if that's an issue by disconnecting one of the TCON cables to see if the image becomes stable on the remaining half side. If not, try the other one.
If it is the panel, most people junk it, although there are other ways around bad panel tracks and corroded panel PCBs. Got three of that model downstairs at the moment.
It may be some software failure. There should be repair mode somewhere where TV step by step allow to see what exactly going wrong.
You can put the 2 stands back on once the back cover is off and get it on the bench.
matches a capacitor diagnosis but the no-boot up is troubling. see if you can get past that boot screen- maybe plug a source in or fire in some commands from a universal remote..
No joy on a HDMI source.
"dodgy hisense thing" - looks down, watching Dave talk about dodgy brand Hisense on a Hisense TV....
Try going to Settings>Display and reset to default Picture settings. That worked for me on a newer model.
Those flat flex connectors at the very periphery where they go into the LCD are prime suspects. Try pressing down on them while observing ... and if you find a suspect, heat along the connector with your iron and some oven paper to attenuate the heat.
Tried, no joy.
Also try running with just one connected, then just the other, to rule out a connection/problem with the LCD side.
Your forgetting that it’s not booting therein lies the issue
Twisting the entire tv, or pressing down around the edges of the screen can temporarily fix these issues but I was never sure if it was t-con related. It still doesn't explain why it's stuck on the splash screen. I never considered Hisense that good of a brand, although I still have an old 3D one that works fine, even if it's bright af
Any time I’ve had this image issue on a monitor or graphics card it’s ALWAYS a capacitor. Even if a cap isn’t blown or buldging it’ll still create issues. The t conn board Can be an issue, but as the glitchy image is present on both sides of the screen evenly you can determine that it’s something before the t conn. It’s also possible the Hisense image is a screensaver waiting for input?
I was going for the LEDs the TV will enter shutdown mode if it suspects there's something up with the backlight.
The flickering is obvious symptom of some dodgy as LEDs.
@@SionynJones sometimes ceramic caps on the flexes on the matrix itself go bad and have same signs - power supply powering up tv for a second with no backlight then shutting down.
Heating the capacitors up (a bit) with a heatgun is usually more effective than cooling them down...
Cooling is good if a device works initially and then stops.
1- re program nand chip on main pcb.boot error will be fix .use RT809H Programmer
2 - try to isolate gate driver signal from t con pcb to lcd panel flex cable (try to google or youtube - ckv cutting - double image repair - lcd flickering repair)
High sense is not a dodgy brand I have a 4k hdr high sense tv and it is still working have no trouble with it
Love you're channel man.
Something is glitching which caused it to brick. If you could reflash the firmware I think it would come back but the glitching will probably brick it again.
I think you covered all the bases here. Could be something simple like a failing MLCC cap shorting but just try and find it, good luck
Have you tried heating the power supply? Even though no bulging with caps, better when warm leads me to think those.
Just picked up a 65 inch version, with not primary light on. So the cold side of the power board. Was think about that square cap, which you did a while because Dave.
To fix it you need to try 1st to update from USB if the TV support that if not remove the Emmc and flash it
Since these are basically a computer. I would take this as faulty Video RAM. Since in this case it is likely shared as System RAM, it is causing corruption in the display, and possibly the boot failure. Is it worth fixing? Well it's a flip a coin sort of one on this. How much time and how much are the DRAM chips worth, and if that doesn't fix it and it is a ASIC/Processor fault, it's a done deal at that point.
Check the caps if the problem gets better after a few minutes.
Indeed, that's 11 minutes out of my life that I'll never get back. LOL
Looks like it's stuck in boot maybe try refreshing the rom but seeing the flickering tells me that might not be the problem. If it was just stuck in boot I'd try that but the flickering tells me maybe the tcon board has issues. Of course capacitors could caus this too I'm talking about small solid state caps on the rails and small ceramic jobs decoupling chips and on the top board and the two strip boards on the lcd itself
Fix it
Fix it
Fix it
Try reflowing the main APU there might be solder balls disconected under it and maybe thats why it is flickering and not booting
looks like a eprom problem to me since its not booting all the way i been fixing tvs for 40 years now hope this helps you out
I'd suggest pulling out the ESR meter and checking all the electrolytics. That's pretty quick and a likely source of problems. Not all bad caps bulge.
Or just measure the ripple on the power raild (including all the locally, on-board generated power rails on the main board) with a scope. An ESR meter not always helps if there are a lot of parallel capacitors on the same rail, one might be open, and you still measure low enough ESR, while that one open local bypass cap might cause high ripple.
I was given 2 bad plasma tvs last week so unlucky I wonder if the person who took them will fix them up or scrape them it was a Samsung 42-inch and a 50-inch Panasonic sets I have a video of them.
I've had a crack at several of these cheap TVs and even when I can locate the problem, finding a replacement part (or even identifying the parts) or replacement board is nearly impossible. So many similar parts, model numbers, generic boards and what not and good luck to you. Maybe if you did this as a job it would be approachable, but as a home hack-handyman is a tough gig.
Not that bad .. id say ive repaired 90 percent of the tvs ive looked at, and ive been doing it for years, i hardly ever swap boards for new ones , ill locate the faulty component / components . I keep a shed load of donor boards and led strips for parts . Once youve done a few you could fix them in your sleep
Thanks for the insight,@@reacey. I don't really have the room and time to keep an extensive collection of salvaged boards and components. Good to know it can be done and try and keep this stuff out of landfill. The kerb-side collections are full of TVs and I'm sure there is no effort made to separate the waste for recycling once it's loaded into trucks.
Please, if you don't need the feet, how much is shipping to the UK?
Hey
What you need to do is to disassemble the two flat cables that go out to the screen from the T CON component, take kapton tape, and cover about 5 mm from the left side of one of them. Don't drink at the same time and try, if it doesn't work then try on the left side. If it doesn't work then try on the left side of the other cable, and if not then on the right side.
To know which part of the screen is broken (left or right)
Just disconnect one side each time and turn it on, and see if the picture looks good. If so, then probably the side you disconnected.
first you try to do a software update , then if that doesnt work i usually resort to replacing tcon/main board if theres no tcon. Otherwise you can look up certain pins going straight to the glass and cut them and you would get normal picture. i cant remember which pins you cut exactly i;d have to look that up but it does work. EDIT
Now that ive seen some of the video i highly suspect the main board to be the issue , you need to try use the remote see if it reacts. also apply video signal and see if everythin else works, if it doesnt its main board issue 100%
It's not about the value of the device, but about the value of your viewers learning!
I completely agree with you. A repair would not only be interesting to watch, but also possibly helpful to others that may have this television set with similar/identical problems. If the set turns out to be fixable, then there is one less big screen television going into the already bulging landfills in our disposable, throw it away world. I suggest giving repair a shot at least. Fred
I just found a Hisense 40" TV by my apt dumpster. It looks ok from the outside, but when I plugged it in the screen won't turn on, but I do see a red led visible on the built in power button below the screen.
I'm not sure it's worth trying to fix, but I look and see if there's anything obvious. I don't mind tinkering for an hour. Possibly a blown led, idk. Any suggestions? (Besides throwing it in the dumpster) Im thinking there's a good chance it will wind up there anyway, but worth a shot.
I've had devices do this because the backlight (ccfl) wires were actually arcing to the frame.
What do those acronyms on the PSU mean, I'm repairing caps on this 42 Hisense so I want to turn on the PSU without the other boards connected, I have the various voltages of course, PWM, SW and 5V-S what do they mean, which one turns the PSU on? Ground it or apply stb voltage?
please do the advanced repair. i fixed an issue like this buy buying a replacement CPU board on ebay, I want to know if it can be fixed on a surface mount level
Some designs simply will not exit the brand image and display a menu until they receive a valid signal...
The flickering could be poor power to the lcd driver board.
It looks like a corrupt file system so the FW isn't booting correctly. On Hisense you should probably have a serial port somewhere on the PCB that you can connect to and check the boot sequence. Also, for Hisense I think the FW binaries (for updates and so) are not encrypted and you can use one to write it into the Flash memory and possibly bring it to life. It has been done somewhere, I already saw it 😁
I have one that works for 1 hour then freezes and has to be unplugged. I am not sure if it's hardware or software related. I did find the NTC might be bad. Still gotta give it a try though.
I found that many devices that leave the backlight on when rebooting (Including a laptop I converted to LED a decade ago) will flicker when resetting the T-CON (or LCD controller in LVDS laptop LCDs),
I'd suspect:
Possibly the output caps of the PSU are just off spec (Check for excessive ripple with a scope?),
Bad EEPROM (If you can get a ROM-Dump from another owner),
bad BGA (RAM or SoC, I ain't at a Louis Rossmann of BGA, good luck),
Constantly rebooting 60 times a second? Could be a power-on-reset IC or R/C issue, rare as a bulls' punani (though I had some ACCESS-IS keyboards do that).
Don't give up! Could be high ESR caps as others have mentioned....
No doubt finding the actual fault would be a huge time sink. Would like to see a video for a similar fault, but another functioning TV of the same model can be used to quickly identify the faulty board, and then hone in on the actual fault by comparing the operation of both boards. I always wondered what particular part fails that causes these weird glitchy faults that make us throw out an otherwise functional piece of tech.
yeah i agree, with a pair of 2 same item you could get so much easier progress. which is more likely... if the item was thrown out from an old business. and they had serval of them. almost never see this with random broken tvs though. so what tends to make more sense is when people sell the different parts as spares on ebay. like the psu board, or the mainboard. other display board etc. so then at least somebody else can have a crack at fixing their other broke unit. a bit better for the environment that way
Would be interesting if you found an interface, JTAG or serial, and tried to watch the bootloader via the command line. Seems like boot failure.
I have a sharp brand tv made by Hisense, it’s actually not a bad tv for a cheap one, I had it few years and still going strong.
Last tv I fixed, tracked it down to the power supply. The replacement board was $40CAD, not worth my time trying to figure out which component was the issue!
Hi, please how to exit aging mode in this tv ?
A quick google shows that for this brand it is common for them to get stuck on the boot screen ether a solid logo or a glitching logo, it seems it can be fixed by using the buttons on the TV, in terms of buying spares for it well these TVs new only cost about £300 brand new for a 50", they are an incredibly cheap brand of tv but they work decently
Got an LG TV that the screen dims every 4 seconds like clockwork, any idea what the problem could be?
I've replaced all boards but could have gotten a bad one from ebay.
The Hisense could it be a processor issue?
Might be the CPU solder joints. Try pressing down hard onto the board with a vice or something really heavy.
Hello Dave, funny story, this week a visited a friend. His 3d tv was broken, there was power but no picture. He had already called somebody to fix it. But because it is already 8 years old, spare parts probably wouldn't be available. So we watched somebody take a similar television apart. And we quickly realised this was beyond our capabilities. So I searched the web, as you do. Then I found this page:
'How to fix your television with a hair dryer'!
And because we had nothing to loose we tried it. And it worked!!!
We held the hair dryer to the air holes in the back over the boards for several minutes while the television was on and suddenly the picture was back.
I assume it melts some connections of the graphic chip, but I am not sure.
Looks like a bootloop and Hisense is known for exactly that, firmware issues!
Some Hisense tv's even have a hard-reset button (If i remember correctly a small purple switch somewhere at the back of the unit
Other models have a firmware update available.
I’m guessing it’s a firmware update gone wrong, i wonder if there is a way to hard reset the tv. I doubt there is anything wrong with the electronics.
I'm gonna say in a financial sense no it's not worth saving but for the sake of learning absolutely it's worth looking at.
Could be two things. Possibly bad eprom causing screen freezing on logo and bad ribbon cables from tcon to panel causing the flickering.
see if you can find a LVDS adaptor and stick a RaspberryPi in it use it for a smart mirror or status display.
How do you keep finding all these TVs??
The double image/flickering looks like an lcd issue it might be worth checking the pcbs along the edge of the screen for short caps/failed bonding normally this would cause other picture issues but I’ve seen screens white out due to failed resistors and certain a manufacturer had a whole range of similar issues so might be worth a look the none boot is the strange one it might be eeprom on the board or it’s in display mode which should be accessible from the service mode but you’ll need a remote to access it. You sure know how to pick ‘em 😂
Looks to me like it crashes on start up. Best guess is corrupted flash memory. I've seen uSD card and eMMC-based electronics do things like this. Unfortunately, unless you can find the firmware and a programming header, this one's definitely gone-skyy. Maybe part out the LCD?
Looks to me more like a firmware problem. If you had a remote you could try re-flashing it. Nothing dodgy about Hisense I have been using mine for six year in constant all day usage as my main monitor for content creation and business. Never missed a beat. It is one of my first video's on the channel. There is a video on my channel on how to access the engineering menu as well.
Hisense is one of the worst TVs in production. Your sample size of ONE is statistically irrelevant. Your one TV working for 6 years doesn't change the reliability of the brand as a whole. TCL and Hisense are two of the worst manufacturers of TVs.
@@littlejackalo5326 Can you point me to the confirmed statistics that you are quoting from?
@@littlejackalo5326 Just become sample size of 2 i have been using mine For 5 years on 24 hours a day as my main monitor.. I'm a coder developer it's worked flawless with out a problem..
I agree i have done the same it's been rock soild..
Would the feet go back on after the rear panel has been removed?
Yes, the feet clearly mount up to the internal metal structure.
I found a Hisense 50H8C and recently purchased a TV repair kit for a different TV a smart tv any way the screen broke in four places needs a new screen any other problems and it has two terminal to connect to the screen I believe the repair kit would work minis the center back cover unfortunately either way the old original TV part or new ones. Except the screen cost as much as the smart 4K television I seen a few for a good price which was a long time ago
Timing controller board TCON is called so for its T-shape. Got it.
Thank you for redubbing the missing audio.
Contact Hisence and ask for the firmware update, it’s gone corrupt, put it on a usb and bobs your teapot, did a friends 2 weeks ago
Just buy one with a broken screen, or a set of boards.
I usually pay about $30 for a set of boards or if it's a TV I plan on keeping, I'll get a set of spare boards anyway!
I've got a Hisense. It's actually pretty good. The smart TV stuff is garbage, but that's why Roku exists.
Stuck on the boot screen like this would be a crashed SmartTV SoC and the screen jitters could just be a side effect from the SoC being out to pasture. If the SoC uses the same clock reference for itself and TCON interface, the jitters could be a sign of the PLL losing lock due to dirty reference clock.
I second that, SoC related
Hisense TV's use to have caps which may not look bulged but get devalued or even shorted.
What you have to do is to get a proper component tester, discharge the power supply board, specially those 200v or 400v dc depending on your country, and probe the diodes and the electrolytics. Those noise supressing mkt's can very well be about to give the ghost.
Also you have to try to resolder everything in the power board using a 40 watt soldering iron with a fine tip and proper tin soldering wire, even the smd parts may need it.
After that, the very first time you plug the TV, it may take a bit to start up since new caps need to "reform" and the power board knows it.
If after trying this, the problem persist, then you can move to the logic board trying to redo solderings, swapping any badcap you may have and, should it be necessary, carefully air-heating the IC's.
Should you EVER achieve a working tv, don't waste a second and try to get the firmware update and do whatever it's needed to install it, it uses to mean to copy the firmware to an USB thumbrdrive and them install it from some sort of menu withing the Remote Control On Screen options.
Hi, I have a 50 inch Hisense Android tv, 50H8G, board number 261423, 261424, RSAG7.820.9615/ROH and I was wondering if there was a bios chip on it. If not, what component on the board does the firmware write to. If it wrote to an Ic chip then I could unbrick my TV and write directly to the IC. My TV has a white light of death after an update and I tried all fixes and nothing works.
Thanks
It's a problem with the main logic board.. the vram next to cpu is damaged.. change the board and it will solve your problems
Every Toshiba TV made in the last few years is Hisense so not as dodgy ...
First thing I'd do is unplug and replug all the connector/ribbon cables, looking for a poor connection, though not very hopeful! Second thing I'd do is plug a known good video source in to one of the input ports to see if that triggers a response. Also not very hopeful, but worth a shot. I have been pleasantly surprised in the past!
Feed it 12V from a bench psu?