Closed cell spray foam then used Styrofoam insulation boards over the top to the level of the frame. I stuffed fiberglass in the frame. After a year I realized both heat and cold permeate thought the frame and do so fairly quick. I stripped out everything and put in another layer of Styrofoam insulation board covering the frame and there is a significant difference in the amount of time it takes to get cold in the winter and hot in the summer. So I guess the moral of the story is: Get something between you and the frame of your cargo section. I also replaced the curtain I had separating the front from the back with the divider that was constructed out of Styrofoam board sandwiched between "door plywood". Not sure what the official name is but it is used to make or repair hollow core doors. It is strong, very thin, light & inexpensive. Word of advice: Don't build then explore. Explore now and take notes. You idea of what you want will have a head on collision with that you need. You will wast a lot less money this way. Oh and don't be in a rush. That will also save you money and will make it soooo much more fun. I've changed my layout 3 times and each time pretty much just cost me time. Good Luck.
@@OneManEngineering I think Rockwool is overlooked. The idea of any kind of “fibers” seems to freak people out. That’s what respirators are for, and if the walls are sealed up nothings going to get out, and certainly not in a quantity that would do any damage.
Polyiso in the roof, held off the metal 1/2” so the foil face actually works as a reflector. Same on the large wall panels. Rockwool to fill in, expanding foam (soft “window and door”) in all the channels/ribs except the bottom where the weep holes are. 1/2” polyiso strips between the roof channels and the ceiling battens. Reflectix behind the wall panels as a vapor barrier, with all openings/seams sealed with foil tape. Insulation is a “package”, not something you do quick and easy.
I ADMIT AT FIRST I THOUGHT YOU WERE CLUELESS! THEN AS WATCHING I NOTICED YOU LEFT NO HEAT ESCAPE BRIDGES AND YOU IDEA IS SMART. LESS WEIGHT EQUALS LESS WEIGHT AND ALL THE BENIFITS THAT COME WITH THAT. GLAD I WATCHED SUBSCRIBED. THANK YOU!
Hey thanks for the video. I can always learn something from someone who doesn’t think they know it all. Appreciate your attitude. I’ll be watching all your van videos.
Oh thank you so much for this video. This video was very well done and easy to understand. Like how you show what your using and why. Like how you show what your doing and then speed it up to get the over all picture. Excited to see your finished product.
Hi Jason, Great job on the thinsulate. I decided to use it also in my 159 pro master. I used the Noico sound deadening as well. Figured it couldn’t hurt and bare bones was the only time to add it. I did not make templates, just measured and cut......didn’t have the patience. (Yours looks better for sure). You are right about the 3m spray 90, downright caustic. They do make a low VOC spray that I used.....with a respirator, in case anyone wants to use instead. Glad to see that my choice was embraced by others in the community. I too took a long time in deciding what insulation to use. Look forward to seeing your build.
I may be wrong, but Rattle Trap or Kilmat on the walls would have been a really good idea. This eliminates a major *source* of road noise which is the vibration of the large flat wall panels. The insulation will “muffle” the noise but does nothing to prevent noise.
I have a small cargo van that I want to insulate for personal use myself just to lounge and sleep in there when I travel about thanks for all the ideas
Jason, good job with the Thinsulate in your Promaster. So far, we have made two of the same decisions after so much research and confusion! 🤣 Best of luck on your Promaster! I am currently in the very beginning, cleaning and tidying up any minor paint issues, adding some Plastidip.
Great video! Do you know of a non toxic glue alternative? If not, how many canisters of the adhesive did you need? You were happy with these scissors for cutting the insulation...if so can you share a link? Thank you for your help!
I have rattle trap on the floor as well. The Thinsulate is a sound deadener, so it's unnecessary to combine those. You can wire it up first if you have everything planned out exactly.
Did you know of The Havlock Wool people are using.? I hear its an option mostly used in Cold Climates because it's mold, resistant and is great for dealing with moisture.
what did you do about the floor ribs/ gaps? did you completely fill those with 3mm thinsulate too? The gaps seem pretty big not sure if I should fill the entire thing or just the openings
Hey man not a question about install so much but do you ever wish you would of put rattle trap on the walls before the thinsulate. I have the same thinsulate ordered that you installed just curious if I should put some rattle trap up before for added sound deadening? Thanks man. Love your videos
*I read some vaners complain that their glued fabric insulation had fallen down the wall that they saw after removing a wall after a lot of driving / vibration. Is the spray glue good at high heat?*
Take the screws out and get the bar down, unplug the light from the power box in the beam by the sliding door. I left the power box in there in case I needed it in the future.
Hey Jason, appreciate your videos man. Your method is tight. Question ... can you call how many cans of adhesive you went through? I need to place an order and don't really have a gauge as to how many to get shipped. Cheers!
Appreciate you using a mask when applying 3M 90 - like you said - keep your lungs healthy! 3M 90 has VOCs including Toluene and Pentane, which are nasty stuff. For others considering spraying lots of 3M 90, please set up good ventilation (doors open, fan on) and wear a mask that protects against VOCs. 3M and others make them - they are 1/2 face piece (only cover the mouth) and have the two little cartridges on the side for VOC filters. Not expensive - about $40. Simple cloth masks (N95, P100) capture spray particles but don't stop you from breathing in those VOCs.
Great video I started to insulate mine and ended up using the opposite side against the wall 🤦🏽♂️ should I leave them or turn them around as I’ve sprayed them w the adhesive?!
Hello Jason. My wife & I are stating our conversion on a 2020 Ram Promaster 1500 high roof 136. Love your videos & watching them more than once. QuESTIONS?? Metal floor tie ins. How did you remove them? I thought I saw that in one of your vids? Also what size bolt & length did you use to secure rose area of the Sub Floor? Will be documenting my build also. Thanks Much. Tom from Following Walkers World. 👍👍✌️
I just used a socket wrench with a star bit, I can't remember the exact size. The bolts are M8-1.25, you'll just want to figure out how long to get them based off what size lumber/insulation you use for the subfloor.
Why did you install the Thinsulate with the black side facing in? I’ve watched about 20 Thinsulate insulation installs, and everyone else has installed the white side facing in. I wonder if it matters?
Jason I love your videos and I always resort to going back to them for my build. Question how good did the thinsulate stay up on the ceiling using the 3m 90 adhesive? Any issue with it falling down?
Jason - Thanks for the Videos. I will taking possession of my new 2021 159 next month. Im getting all of my electrical and solar purchased as well as my insulation and framing material. My question: there is a 20', 30' and 40' roll of Thinsulate. Which one did you purchase for the 159 HR? Thanks again. You are going to be my guide as I build this out. If you are ever in the SOCAL area, I will buy you multiple beers!!
Did you have any insulation left over? I have a 159” Wb and was hoping one role would do it? I want to be thorough tho and get all spaces. Great Video! I subscribed 😃
Do you have any plans for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation and potential mold? Also isn’t the fuzzy side supposed to face inwards? 🤷♂️. Thanks bro not ragging on you just genuine curiosity. For my future build
No worries, they are good questions. I went back and forth on the vapor barrier but you’re never going to get the van 100% perfectly insulated, it’s not built for it. The van will most likely leak in certain spots as well so it’s not a good idea IMO to trap that. The van has rocker panels on each side which have a hole in the bottom for water to drain out. So, the idea is to let the insulation breathe and the thinsulate weeps any water away down into the rocker panels. Faroutride has an interesting article on some of this: faroutride.com/condensation-moisture-van/ Black inwards is what’s recommended.
Jason Klunk thanks for the excellent reply it will be a year before I get everything squared away to start building so right now I’m just doing research.
Zach, I had the opportunity to live in my naked, bare-walled cargo van for 45 days, with my grown son and five dogs, due to a tight housing market where we moved. The condensation is real, and it dripped on my face while sleeping. This is the reason I will make my best attempt to seal off my insulation with a vapor barrier. If I can avoid any moisture inside there, I will. It’s worth the $100 to me. I moved to the Pacific Northwest at the beginning of rainy season, and moisture does not come inside the van through the walls or seep holes. My van was loaded with our mattresses and other possessions, and the van did not allow them to get wet; only condensation from the occupants did that. That’s my real-life experiment conducted recently.
@@annecaulder9495 Did you have any ventilation/fans going though? You need to keep air moving in a tight space like that, or yes, you will get lots of moisture built up.
Airplanes / small metal round boxes, researched and discovered vapour barriers were pointless. The goal is to let any water have a way to escape from the van.
Hey man, great vid! Question, I live somewhere that gets really cold in the winter and a lot of condensation accumulates inside the van. Does the thinsulate help with this/will the condensation seep through it? Thanks man!
Hey thanks for this video along with all your other videos. Huge help on my project but question. Did you insulate behind the black caps near the floor? There is so much space in there and I’m worried about water getting in since there are openings coming in from under the van.
You don't need to fill the channels with insulation. The heat or cold will flow right through the metal and bypass all the insulation. I think you should tap over the hole to prevent airflow but skip the time it take to stuff them.
good job ! I just did mine the same way, i missed the part when you said to add a 1/4 inch over the template I had a phone call something. My bad but i corrected it after a couple panels. I have a question: at the bottom of the walls there are plastic triangles I took them off and thought of putting thinsulate and leave 1/2 to the bottom because i know they have a drain. What do you think?
I went back and forth on the vapor barrier but you’re never going to get the van 100% perfectly insulated, it’s not built for it. The van will most likely leak in certain spots as well so it’s not a good idea IMO to trap that. The van has rocker panels on each side which have a hole in the bottom for water to drain out. So, the idea is to let the insulation breathe and the Thinsulate weeps any water away down into the rocker panels. Faroutride has an interesting article on some of this: faroutride.com/condensation-moisture-van/
Did you insulate above and around the overhead storage headliner? I assume you had it out to install the blocks you cut for the ceiling installation. If so, any tips or observations? Thanks!
I would never make an insulation choice based on a theoretical future event, even more so if it will impact my comfort and enjoyment while using the van. I'd sooner sell the converted van and use the profits to buy a commercial van.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
What insulation did you choose and why?
Closed cell spray foam then used Styrofoam insulation boards over the top to the level of the frame. I stuffed fiberglass in the frame. After a year I realized both heat and cold permeate thought the frame and do so fairly quick. I stripped out everything and put in another layer of Styrofoam insulation board covering the frame and there is a significant difference in the amount of time it takes to get cold in the winter and hot in the summer. So I guess the moral of the story is: Get something between you and the frame of your cargo section.
I also replaced the curtain I had separating the front from the back with the divider that was constructed out of Styrofoam board sandwiched between "door plywood". Not sure what the official name is but it is used to make or repair hollow core doors. It is strong, very thin, light & inexpensive.
Word of advice: Don't build then explore. Explore now and take notes. You idea of what you want will have a head on collision with that you need. You will wast a lot less money this way. Oh and don't be in a rush. That will also save you money and will make it soooo much more fun. I've changed my layout 3 times and each time pretty much just cost me time. Good Luck.
RockWool! Fantastic, easy to use and very cheap! Also hydrophobic and damp/rot resistant.
@@OneManEngineering I think Rockwool is overlooked. The idea of any kind of “fibers” seems to freak people out. That’s what respirators are for, and if the walls are sealed up nothings going to get out, and certainly not in a quantity that would do any damage.
Polyiso in the roof, held off the metal 1/2” so the foil face actually works as a reflector. Same on the large wall panels. Rockwool to fill in, expanding foam (soft “window and door”) in all the channels/ribs except the bottom where the weep holes are. 1/2” polyiso strips between the roof channels and the ceiling battens. Reflectix behind the wall panels as a vapor barrier, with all openings/seams sealed with foil tape. Insulation is a “package”, not something you do quick and easy.
Templates are great idea
Agreed!
I ADMIT AT FIRST I THOUGHT YOU WERE CLUELESS! THEN AS WATCHING I NOTICED YOU LEFT NO HEAT ESCAPE BRIDGES AND YOU IDEA IS SMART. LESS WEIGHT EQUALS LESS WEIGHT AND ALL THE BENIFITS THAT COME WITH THAT. GLAD I WATCHED SUBSCRIBED. THANK YOU!
lol thanks
Hey thanks for the video. I can always learn something from someone who doesn’t think they know it all. Appreciate your attitude. I’ll be watching all your van videos.
Thanks so much.
Oh thank you so much for this video. This video was very well done and easy to understand. Like how you show what your using and why. Like how you show what your doing and then speed it up to get the over all picture. Excited to see your finished product.
Thanks!
Hi Jason,
Great job on the thinsulate. I decided to use it also in my 159 pro master. I used the Noico sound deadening as well. Figured it couldn’t hurt and bare bones was the only time to add it. I did not make templates, just measured and cut......didn’t have the patience. (Yours looks better for sure). You are right about the 3m spray 90, downright caustic. They do make a low VOC spray that I used.....with a respirator, in case anyone wants to use instead. Glad to see that my choice was embraced by others in the community. I too took a long time in deciding what insulation to use. Look forward to seeing your build.
Thanks 🤙
We did the exact same thing. Installing the thinsulate right now? Did you use any reflectant?
I just bought my pro master and I like the way you did the installation,I'll do the same. thank you so much for the video.
Hecksal from las vegas.
I may be wrong, but Rattle Trap or Kilmat on the walls would have been a really good idea. This eliminates a major *source* of road noise which is the vibration of the large flat wall panels. The insulation will “muffle” the noise but does nothing to prevent noise.
Your videos are great and super helpful. Thinking of doing my van build myself and I love how you explain every step so well.
Thanks 🙏
Thank you. This is the way to go with insulation.
You bet
We used the thinsulate as well!
I have a small cargo van that I want to insulate for personal use myself just to lounge and sleep in there when I travel about thanks for all the ideas
Sounds great!
Didn't think much of the hair dew but I think you did a very good job. I would have you do mine.
lol thanks
Jason, good job with the Thinsulate in your Promaster. So far, we have made two of the same decisions after so much research and confusion! 🤣 Best of luck on your Promaster! I am currently in the very beginning, cleaning and tidying up any minor paint issues, adding some Plastidip.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video! Do you know of a non toxic glue alternative? If not, how many canisters of the adhesive did you need? You were happy with these scissors for cutting the insulation...if so can you share a link? Thank you for your help!
Thanks Jason for the video I'm asking where did you buy the insulation material and how much does it cost? Please
amazon - there are links in the description.
Hello! Great video! I was curious how many feet long was the 5 ft wide roll? Im hoping to only need the 20'×60"
Beautifully explained and showed! You are awesome!
thanks
Would you recommend cutting the exhaust vent before insulation or can be done after
I'm still learning. Curious as to why no rattle trap anywhere else but the wheel wells and why not wire it up first with all the channels on the ribs?
I have rattle trap on the floor as well. The Thinsulate is a sound deadener, so it's unnecessary to combine those. You can wire it up first if you have everything planned out exactly.
Did you know of The Havlock Wool people are using.? I hear its an option mostly used in Cold Climates because it's mold, resistant and is great for dealing with moisture.
what did you do about the floor ribs/ gaps? did you completely fill those with 3mm thinsulate too? The gaps seem pretty big not sure if I should fill the entire thing or just the openings
Hey man not a question about install so much but do you ever wish you would of put rattle trap on the walls before the thinsulate. I have the same thinsulate ordered that you installed just curious if I should put some rattle trap up before for added sound deadening? Thanks man. Love your videos
nah, the thinsulate does a great job on its own.
Hi great video. Did you spray adhesive on the thinsulate you placed in the sliding door?
No, I just stuffed it in there
@@JasonKlunk Lol....ok got it. Thanks👍
*I read some vaners complain that their glued fabric insulation had fallen down the wall that they saw after removing a wall after a lot of driving / vibration. Is the spray glue good at high heat?*
I've had no issues.
How did you deal with the factory installed cargo light?
Take the screws out and get the bar down, unplug the light from the power box in the beam by the sliding door. I left the power box in there in case I needed it in the future.
Can you provide info where to buy the insulation and how much I need thank you
check the links in the description. Just measure out your square footage.
Thank you and sorry that I bother you
Thank You!
You're welcome!
Nice thanks for the video
you got it!
Hey Jason, appreciate your videos man. Your method is tight.
Question ... can you call how many cans of adhesive you went through?
I need to place an order and don't really have a gauge as to how many to get shipped.
Cheers!
I believe it was just 2 cans.
Appreciate you using a mask when applying 3M 90 - like you said - keep your lungs healthy! 3M 90 has VOCs including Toluene and Pentane, which are nasty stuff.
For others considering spraying lots of 3M 90, please set up good ventilation (doors open, fan on) and wear a mask that protects against VOCs. 3M and others make them - they are 1/2 face piece (only cover the mouth) and have the two little cartridges on the side for VOC filters. Not expensive - about $40.
Simple cloth masks (N95, P100) capture spray particles but don't stop you from breathing in those VOCs.
Great video I started to insulate mine and ended up using the opposite side against the wall 🤦🏽♂️ should I leave them or turn them around as I’ve sprayed them w the adhesive?!
hmmm, I'm not sure tbh. White towards the sheet metal was recommended by Hein over at DIYVan, you could try and reach out to him for a better answer.
Nice vid. Just had a new subscriber!
Greg
Awesome, thank you!
Hello Jason. My wife & I are stating our conversion on a 2020 Ram Promaster 1500 high roof 136. Love your videos & watching them more than once. QuESTIONS?? Metal floor tie ins. How did you remove them? I thought I saw that in one of your vids? Also what size bolt & length did you use to secure rose area of the Sub Floor? Will be documenting my build also. Thanks Much. Tom from Following Walkers World. 👍👍✌️
I just used a socket wrench with a star bit, I can't remember the exact size. The bolts are M8-1.25, you'll just want to figure out how long to get them based off what size lumber/insulation you use for the subfloor.
Jason Klunk Awesome Jason. Yew I got the out easy with a T 40 socket. But great to know what size bolt. 👍👍✌️
Which part of the build are you guys on now? We are currently installing insulation in our 2500 high roof 136".
Did you put insulation in the channels on the ceiling as well? And was is hard the have the insulation glue to the ceiling and stay?
Yes, I did. No, the adhesive works really fast and I had no problems.
Why did you install the Thinsulate with the black side facing in? I’ve watched about 20 Thinsulate insulation installs, and everyone else has installed the white side facing in. I wonder if it matters?
Black facing out is what was recommend by Hein at DIYVan.
Jason Klunk Thank you, another van build TH-camr who has my highest regard is Humble Road, and he has the black side facing in as well.
Jason I love your videos and I always resort to going back to them for my build. Question how good did the thinsulate stay up on the ceiling using the 3m 90 adhesive? Any issue with it falling down?
No issues, the adhesive works really well.
@@JasonKlunk Thanks Jason for the quick reply your the man!
Hi there I watched and took notes. I didn't see any gap filling spray foam, did you use any? If so where and what. Big Thx.
Jason - Thanks for the Videos. I will taking possession of my new 2021 159 next month. Im getting all of my electrical and solar purchased as well as my insulation and framing material.
My question: there is a 20', 30' and 40' roll of Thinsulate. Which one did you purchase for the 159 HR?
Thanks again. You are going to be my guide as I build this out. If you are ever in the SOCAL area, I will buy you multiple beers!!
I did 40' for my 136, you'll want 50'-60' for the 159
Pls email him your address and cell number
.
im going for this or Thinsulate on my channel ordering today!
good luck!
@@JasonKlunk thank you
We went with it too!
Does your van stay cool in the summertime
For the most part, yes. In extreme days there is not much you can do, except find some shade and try to stay out of the direct sun.
Did you have any insulation left over? I have a 159” Wb and was hoping one role would do it? I want to be thorough tho and get all spaces. Great Video! I subscribed 😃
I'm going to be using all of it. I think 50 linear feet is recommended for the 159.
Thank You!! Much needed and appreciated info. 😁
Question? Would it be okay to add the gray adhesive insulation you used on the floor, on the walls and also add the Thisulate on top of that?
Do you have any plans for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation and potential mold? Also isn’t the fuzzy side supposed to face inwards? 🤷♂️. Thanks bro not ragging on you just genuine curiosity. For my future build
No worries, they are good questions. I went back and forth on the vapor barrier but you’re never going to get the van 100% perfectly insulated, it’s not built for it. The van will most likely leak in certain spots as well so it’s not a good idea IMO to trap that. The van has rocker panels on each side which have a hole in the bottom for water to drain out. So, the idea is to let the insulation breathe and the thinsulate weeps any water away down into the rocker panels. Faroutride has an interesting article on some of this: faroutride.com/condensation-moisture-van/
Black inwards is what’s recommended.
Jason Klunk thanks for the excellent reply it will be a year before I get everything squared away to start building so right now I’m just doing research.
Zach, I had the opportunity to live in my naked, bare-walled cargo van for 45 days, with my grown son and five dogs, due to a tight housing market where we moved. The condensation is real, and it dripped on my face while sleeping. This is the reason I will make my best attempt to seal off my insulation with a vapor barrier. If I can avoid any moisture inside there, I will. It’s worth the $100 to me. I moved to the Pacific Northwest at the beginning of rainy season, and moisture does not come inside the van through the walls or seep holes. My van was loaded with our mattresses and other possessions, and the van did not allow them to get wet; only condensation from the occupants did that. That’s my real-life experiment conducted recently.
@@annecaulder9495 Did you have any ventilation/fans going though? You need to keep air moving in a tight space like that, or yes, you will get lots of moisture built up.
Airplanes / small metal round boxes, researched and discovered vapour barriers were pointless. The goal is to let any water have a way to escape from the van.
Hey thanks for all of the awesome videos! Huge inspiration for my build! how many square feet of thinsulate did you end up using?
thanks, I used the 40’ roll I have linked in the description
Do you have to insulate in a certain temperature or doesn't it matter?
Doesn't matter with the thinsulate
Hey man, great vid! Question, I live somewhere that gets really cold in the winter and a lot of condensation accumulates inside the van. Does the thinsulate help with this/will the condensation seep through it? Thanks man!
Hey thanks for this video along with all your other videos. Huge help on my project but question. Did you insulate behind the black caps near the floor? There is so much space in there and I’m worried about water getting in since there are openings coming in from under the van.
Hey Matt, no I left that space open so that water can drain out without any issues.
@@JasonKlunk ok great thats what I figured after taking a look down in there. Appreciate the response.
@@TheMmcconnell Great question! We are wondering the same thing. We are installing thinsulate right now!
@@theaveadventurers Hey! So apparently after asking around a bit you should leave that portion clear for water drainage.
@@TheMmcconnell That's great. Thank you! Less work now to do. We always appreciate thing that lead to less work! HAHA!
how many cans should we buy of the spray adhesive?
I believe I used 2 cans
@@JasonKlunk cool thanks ! I bought 2 as well. just went thru one can and still have to do the ceiling and the doors so I think 2 will be perfect.
Can you provide the name of the insulation and who sell it ??
Check the links in the description!
I don’t see any links
It’s in the first sentence
What if you double up or add foam board infront or it
You could certainly do that, but probably not necessary.
You don't need to fill the channels with insulation. The heat or cold will flow right through the metal and bypass all the insulation. I think you should tap over the hole to prevent airflow but skip the time it take to stuff them.
That makes sense.
Even with insulation in the void, the steel would CONDUCT the hot/cold AROUND it.
So, you wouldn't put any insulation in the metal panels?
it would still help with noise reduction
good job ! I just did mine the same way, i missed the part when you said to add a 1/4 inch over the template I had a phone call something. My bad but i corrected it after a couple panels. I have a question:
at the bottom of the walls there are plastic triangles I took them off and thought of putting thinsulate and leave 1/2 to the bottom because i know they have a drain. What do you think?
I left the rocker panels empty and left the covers on, there will most most likely be moisture in that area.
Did you do this? Keep it off or put it back on after insulating? We are using Thinsulate as well.
Why only 1.5" and not 2" being as the ribs are 2-2.5" in depth? Or are you planning on putting Reflextix over that as a vapor barrier?
I was off a bit, the material will expand to 1 3/4" or 44mm. I doubled up in some spots where I had room.
@@JasonKlunk ahhh, makes sense then. But still, you are putting in a vapor barrier aren't you?
I went back and forth on the vapor barrier but you’re never going to get the van 100% perfectly insulated, it’s not built for it. The van will most likely leak in certain spots as well so it’s not a good idea IMO to trap that. The van has rocker panels on each side which have a hole in the bottom for water to drain out. So, the idea is to let the insulation breathe and the Thinsulate weeps any water away down into the rocker panels. Faroutride has an interesting article on some of this: faroutride.com/condensation-moisture-van/
@@JasonKlunk That's super helpful!
Hybrid insulation?
Thinsulate in open areas and
Foam in the voids?
sure, that works too
Did you end up using all of the 40'x60' roll? Wondering if I need the whole roll or not
Yeah, I did
We went with the Thinsulate as well. We are actually currently installing it. Did you wrap yours with reflectant at all before paneling?
Right on. No, I did not.
@@JasonKlunk Thanks man!
Did you insulate above and around the overhead storage headliner? I assume you had it out to install the blocks you cut for the ceiling installation. If so, any tips or observations? Thanks!
Great video thank you Jason, question did you purchase the covers for the weep holes in floor?
Thanks, no I did not.
What is the name of the insulation and if you can send me where can I get it?
There’s a link in the description 🤙 Let me know if it’s not working
What is the R-value of this insulation?
5.2 in american r-value measurements
👍👍👍👍👍
🤙🤙
dead link ;-(
sorry about that, fixed now.
I would never make an insulation choice based on a theoretical future event, even more so if it will impact my comfort and enjoyment while using the van. I'd sooner sell the converted van and use the profits to buy a commercial van.
bro agent is from the same family my name is pietro Vinícius klunk
🤙