I really appreciate the careful thinking aloud about positioning the tools. I make use of a whiteboard and endless diagrams and sums to try to prove to myself I am on the right lines!
Hi Kevin I bet I spend 10 times the amount of time thinking about how to do something, compared to the actual amount of time it takes to do it! Cheers Andrew
Well done! One thing I have learned while drilling if you relieve your pressure occasionally while drilling the chips will break off smaller and prevent the "helicopters" and save you from some possible cuts. The fit and finish look awesome. Have to shoot a video in action!
Thanks bhein67, and for the tip. It was a good practice piece and I am really pleased with the result. Those tips from banggood produced a very good finish. Have a great day. Andrew
Nicely done Andrew! Two observations - recommend using pliers, not fingers, to remove the stringy swarf and suggest using some lubrication when drilling. Glad you are enjoying yourself. Regards
Hi Steve. It's quite different to woodturning but equally very interesting and challenging. It keeps the old brain active anyway! I need to undertake a project that incorporates both - whatever that might be. Thanks for commenting and good luck. Cheers Andrew
If I’m not mistaken you tool holder for the boring bar (250 002) is held in a 250 000 tool post. Was there a problem installing this on the SC4. I believe the original stud is 10mm but the 250 000 requires a 12mm stud. Also, did it match the SC4 vertically? I would like to get this post - reasonably priced at Bangood - as there are some useful accessories.
Hi John I don't think mine is a 250 000 tool post. I purchased mine from Arc Euro Trade - SC4 Quick Change Tool Post Set. I hope that helps. Cheers Andrew
your normal facing tool should be o dead center. if you use this to score a line using the carriage handle you should have a line exactly on center line.
Hi Glenn. Many thanks for the advice. I will definately get some long nose pliers and some wd40. Then all I need to do is remember to use them! I now need to set myself a challenging little project - whatever that might be. Cheers Andrew
I find that kerosene works well as a cutting fluid on aluminium (and it's a bit cheaper than WD40). It's also good on copper & its alloys (brass, bronze, gunmetal). Aluminium & copper tend to build up on the tip of the cutting tool, causing a poor surface finish. The kerosene seems to prevent this build up.
Hi. I really like your videos.. You might want to check TH-camr TimNummy , he's been having older (cheaper) mini lathe for a year or so and he has done some neat projects and lathe modifications.
Hi Joanna. Many thanks for the tip re TimNummy. I've just checked his channel out and I am very impressed. I'm glad its raining outside cos it's a great excuse to catch up on some of his vids. 🙂 Thanks again. Andrew
I have been watching a number of your videos now & trying to work out where people allowed you to start to go wrong. This Video is where it started. You apologized for making a mistake by turning the diameter down from 40mm using your top slide. Then said that by luck you got away with it. This is where you went wrong. At this time you were doing the right thing by learning to turn using your fingers to turn with, not the power feeds. I learned to turn on a treadle lathe when very young only being allowed to use the topslide. So first you turn with your topslide then with your carriage handwheel. Only when you have mastered these should you have gone on to use your power feeds. I know that you have excellent feel because you can drill tiny holes. But your use of your lathe manual controls is very poor. My number one advice is to stop using your power feeds until you have learnt to turn to the same high standard using manual control only. Then once learnt you will spend most of your time using your manual controls because you can feel the cut. You will also get more pleasure from doing the work & taking your time. Most of your faults are caused through lack of time to think things out properly. Like putting a bit of packing in the other end of the jaws of your milling vice. Or remembering that Chinese chucks should be tightened up using all three holes because they are not quite the same quality as a Bernard. However, unless you want to spend a lot more for the very accurate extra quality Bernard, they are just as accurate. My brother has commented that you're cutting through both items at 45 deg in order to silver solder them together is not the best way to do that job. Better to make it one piece & notch out leaving a tiny bit attached in the middle then fold to 90 deg & silver solder. This way you avoid having to waste all that time lining it up. My personal comment is that you need to do a bit more investment so as not to have things sticking so far out of vices. Either a vice you can angle or a table you can angle. Remembering that a man gets very used to his vice. But it is your choice. However, please remember that vices are not designed to take side loads, so please put some packing in to keep the jaws balanced square if your work is all to one side of the tightening screw. As for not being able to get at locks under tables on milling machines. There are things known as riser blocks for both milling machines & lathes. Normally you make your own. Then you can get under to clean away swarf as well as other things. Mervyn Price retired design Engineer. Not a machinist, Sorry.
Hi Mervyn - thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I've a learned a little more since producing this video. This is my hobby and I've since successfully built three little steam engines - all running 'as sweet as a nut'. I get lots of help and advice from experienced machinists - which is always greatly appreciated. I hope you and your family have a great Christmas. Cheers! Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thank you for your reply. You are indeed learning all the time. Incidentally we who are involved in ME are always learning all the time as well as you. ME is very different to normal machinery work. We work for years some times to perfect something that may appear not that important to others. But for our Employer it is money in the bank. A quick word of advice about Limits & fits in workshop engineering & ME. Get yourself a copy of Zeus. Look at the limits & fits in there. They are the same as on the internet. Now forget the outer ones & concentrate on the two closest together ones. H & f. Just forget the 7. H is the size that you have machined your hole to & f the minimum clearance. Now simply make your f as close just under the f gap that you can. Then you have done your best & it will be a lot better than going through all the maths to say I am within tolerance.
Nice Project, and very useful! I have made them for both sizes, but mine don't slide. Good video as usual!
I really appreciate the careful thinking aloud about positioning the tools. I make use of a whiteboard and endless diagrams and sums to try to prove to myself I am on the right lines!
Hi Kevin
I bet I spend 10 times the amount of time thinking about how to do something, compared to the actual amount of time it takes to do it!
Cheers
Andrew
Well done! One thing I have learned while drilling if you relieve your pressure occasionally while drilling the chips will break off smaller and prevent the "helicopters" and save you from some possible cuts.
The fit and finish look awesome. Have to shoot a video in action!
Thanks bhein67, and for the tip.
It was a good practice piece and I am really pleased with the result.
Those tips from banggood produced a very good finish.
Have a great day.
Andrew
nice video,Andrew,i enjoyed very much, thank you for sharing.
Nicely done Andrew! Two observations - recommend using pliers, not fingers, to remove the stringy swarf and suggest using some lubrication when drilling. Glad you are enjoying yourself. Regards
Hi Clive. Many thanks for the tips. I will try to make sure I have some long nose pliers and wd40 to hand in future.
Cheers
Andrew
Good job. I am a wood Turner. But I think your tempting/inspiring me in to metal turning too. Keep up the excellent work on both.
Hi Steve. It's quite different to woodturning but equally very interesting and challenging. It keeps the old brain active anyway!
I need to undertake a project that incorporates both - whatever that might be.
Thanks for commenting and good luck.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew loved this i was lucky i had a bit of 30mm ally in my scrap bin but all the rest of it was as per your cunning plan
Nice one Nigel! I'm really pleased it worked out OK.
All the best.
Andrew
If I’m not mistaken you tool holder for the boring bar (250 002) is held in a 250 000 tool post. Was there a problem installing this on the SC4. I believe the original stud is 10mm but the 250 000 requires a 12mm stud. Also, did it match the SC4 vertically? I would like to get this post - reasonably priced at Bangood - as there are some useful accessories.
Hi John
I don't think mine is a 250 000 tool post. I purchased mine from Arc Euro Trade - SC4 Quick Change Tool Post Set. I hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
Very well done!
Thanks Dave, and I've subscribed to your channel for more inspiration!
Cheers
Andrew
For turning aluminum about 30% kerosene to regular motor oil and apply with an acid brush. Or aluminum will stick and ruin inserts.
Hi Dave - many thanks for the tip. I bought some wd40 as advised by Glenn but I will try to get hold of some paraffin as well.
Cheers. Andrew
Nice job Andrew.....
Cheers Allen. All the best.
Andrew
your normal facing tool should be o dead center. if you use this to score a line using the carriage handle you should have a line exactly on center line.
Thanks for the tip Michael.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi never touch the swarf with your fingers, especially stringy swarf; and use wd40 for lubricant on aluminium. Otherwise you did rather well...
Hi Glenn. Many thanks for the advice. I will definately get some long nose pliers and some wd40. Then all I need to do is remember to use them!
I now need to set myself a challenging little project - whatever that might be.
Cheers
Andrew
I find that kerosene works well as a cutting fluid on aluminium (and it's a bit cheaper than WD40). It's also good on copper & its alloys (brass, bronze, gunmetal).
Aluminium & copper tend to build up on the tip of the cutting tool, causing a poor surface finish. The kerosene seems to prevent this build up.
Hi. I really like your videos.. You might want to check TH-camr TimNummy , he's been having older (cheaper) mini lathe for a year or so and he has done some neat projects and lathe modifications.
Hi Joanna. Many thanks for the tip re TimNummy. I've just checked his channel out and I am very impressed. I'm glad its raining outside cos it's a great excuse to catch up on some of his vids. 🙂
Thanks again.
Andrew
I have been watching a number of your videos now & trying to work out where people allowed you to start to go wrong. This Video is where it started. You apologized for making a mistake by turning the diameter down from 40mm using your top slide. Then said that by luck you got away with it. This is where you went wrong. At this time you were doing the right thing by learning to turn using your fingers to turn with, not the power feeds. I learned to turn on a treadle lathe when very young only being allowed to use the topslide.
So first you turn with your topslide then with your carriage handwheel. Only when you have mastered these should you have gone on to use your power feeds. I know that you have excellent feel because you can drill tiny holes. But your use of your lathe manual controls is very poor. My number one advice is to stop using your power feeds until you have learnt to turn to the same high standard using manual control only. Then once learnt you will spend most of your time using your manual controls because you can feel the cut. You will also get more pleasure from doing the work & taking your time. Most of your faults are caused through lack of time to think things out properly. Like putting a bit of packing in the other end of the jaws of your milling vice.
Or remembering that Chinese chucks should be tightened up using all three holes because they are not quite the same quality as a Bernard. However, unless you want to spend a lot more for the very accurate extra quality Bernard, they are just as accurate.
My brother has commented that you're cutting through both items at 45 deg in order to silver solder them together is not the best way to do that job. Better to make it one piece & notch out leaving a tiny bit attached in the middle then fold to 90 deg & silver solder. This way you avoid having to waste all that time lining it up. My personal comment is that you need to do a bit more investment so as not to have things sticking so far out of vices. Either a vice you can angle or a table you can angle. Remembering that a man gets very used to his vice. But it is your choice. However, please remember that vices are not designed to take side loads, so please put some packing in to keep the jaws balanced square if your work is all to one side of the tightening screw. As for not being able to get at locks under tables on milling machines. There are things known as riser blocks for both milling machines & lathes. Normally you make your own. Then you can get under to clean away swarf as well as other things. Mervyn Price retired design Engineer. Not a machinist, Sorry.
Hi Mervyn - thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I've a learned a little more since producing this video. This is my hobby and I've since successfully built three little steam engines - all running 'as sweet as a nut'. I get lots of help and advice from experienced machinists - which is always greatly appreciated.
I hope you and your family have a great Christmas.
Cheers!
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thank you for your reply. You are indeed learning all the time. Incidentally we who are involved in ME are always learning all the time as well as you. ME is very different to normal machinery work. We work for years some times to perfect something that may appear not that important to others. But for our Employer it is money in the bank.
A quick word of advice about Limits & fits in workshop engineering & ME. Get yourself a copy of Zeus. Look at the limits & fits in there. They are the same as on the internet. Now forget the outer ones & concentrate on the two closest together ones. H & f. Just forget the 7. H is the size that you have machined your hole to & f the minimum clearance. Now simply make your f as close just under the f gap that you can. Then you have done your best & it will be a lot better than going through all the maths to say I am within tolerance.