Great videos- especially showing the oopsie's (we all do them, but don't confess to them) I see them as opportunities. The parallels!! I put a coil spring between them - it helps keep them vertical when putting the part in the vise, and I suppose a strong enough one would prevent the parallel from sliding.
Just come across your channel tonight. Very honest and very real content. Some great advice to give and take from each video so far. If you learn something or take something away from everything you make then it is a worth while experience in my opinion. thanks
Hi, i am reall enjoying this series. You have a very calm voice and explain very well. I am trying to glean as much info as i can before starting my engine. From youtubers like yourself and model engineers workshop. I only have a lathe so will have alot of compromising to do! Wavy parallels would prob not be great for such a short part, try a spring in the vice, clamping so it pushes it against the jaw, it keeps both apart and dont cost much. Take care mate.
I enjoy your videos. Regarding the parallels moving, I generally use compression springs to hold them in place. When there isn’t enough room for springs, a bent strip of spring metal does the trick. The springs also keep chips from getting underneath the parallels.
I learned a neat trick a while back. You could use a pin vertically in the V of the vise, the same size as the hole in your part, from which you are basing the radius. With a collar slipped on first, your part will be well above the jaws and you simply manually rotate your part. You do need to be very careful, but light cuts work well.
Coming along nicely Andrew. When it comes to turning the radiussed ends of the crankwebs you'll probably find it a lot easier if you turn a close fitting mandrel in your lathe to fit the web holes, don't remove the mandrel but use 638 to secure the webs on it then turn the opposite end. In your case as the web holes are different sizes you will need to make 2 different mandrels but it's far quicker and easier than the rotary table. A bit of heat will break the Loctite bond each time 😀
Great video Andrew. Iam a beginner like you and after watching all your videos you have inspired me to start a project . So i have sent away for the hemming way knurling tool it seems to be a straight forward project for my first one keep the videos comming Jimmy
Andrew, another great video, now imagine that X 3 and having to not only the correct spacing, but also 120 degrees apart, that was how I had to machine my Triple crankshaft. I put taper pins all the way through each web and peened the ends over and silver soldered the whole assembly. Never want to make another one. I had to also fit counterweights to each web, Stuart supplied those as cast iron but they still needed machining and fitting with 7 BA studs screwed into the webs but clearance holes in the weights that needed peening over to lock them in place. Vibrating parallels :-)) LOL but seriously, a tip you could also try is a magnet or even a dob of hot glue where it does not get in the way.
@@learningturningmetal The original one supplied by Stuart was 3 blocks pinned and braised onto the main rod. I then had to machine each crank out of the solid block, got to the 3 rd one and had a bad crash that bent the whole thing. I then prefabricated one. If you buy a Stuart Triple now, you have to prefabricate it.
Well done. I am hoping to start on something like this after the holidays. The reason one of the parallels came loose was probably because when you snugged the vise up the movable jaw rose a little bit and took the pressure off the one parallel. Or, you may not have checked the parallels for movement after using a hammer to seat the parts against the parallels. Thanks again for sharing your experiences with us.
Andrew, making a hammer could be a fun project especially if you make the hammer with soft faces that won't mar the surface of what you are using it on.
Hi Andrew, I got a V10 :) for Christmas so have been watching you and Tinker, Got a good tip from Joe Pieczynski (great guy) if you have any of the strapping that came with your lathe or mill cut a couple of pieces to slightly longer than your mill vice, then bend to form a curve with two straights and when you put your parallels in the vice put one of the straps in as well, it acts like a spring and forces the parallel against the vice side, stops it vibrating out. Hope that makes sense! TFS "thanks for sharing". Regards G :)
Hi Graeme - that's a brilliant tip. Shame I threw all my packaging away. Hope I remember next time I buy a new toy. Good luck with your 10v project. Cheers Andrew
an alternative to spring strip is foam rubber. I have some fairly dense foam about 6mm thick that I have cut into strips that I put between the parallels. There is enough compressibility to ensure that the parallels stay where you put them and remain square to the bottom of the vice which is kinda important. I might video the set up in the next day or two to add to my library, a video makes it all clear.
Andrew. I don't design my engines because I'm clever. I'm just tight fisted. My engines are loosely based on someone else's designs but I use whatever materials I can lay my hands on, cheaply. Usually I find some ready made tubing for the cylinders and go from there. None of my attempts at boring cylinders seem to produce a good enough surface finish. This could be down to me, my machine, my tools or my lack of experience. I have a 3 1/2 inch flat bed Drummond lathe that I have motorised. The original was treadle powered. I don't own a milling machine. I get by, by use of a file, hacksaw and belt sander. Keep up the videos. I have learnt a lot from people like yourself. Also Mr pete222, Abom79, Myfordboy so on. Thanks for your advice on reamer drills. Just placed an order for some. Cheers.
Hi Andrew, I am building a 10H, which has exactly the same crankshaft. I also noticed that the maths on the crank did not add up for the width of the crank webs. Also there is nothing missing from the diagram for the crank webs themselves, all the dimensions you need are there. The fact that you had to work out the distance from one end to the web to the centre of the nearest hole is a consequence of the way you marked it out. If the additional dimension that you worked out as 7/32" had been on the diagram then technically the drawing would have been over dimensioned. Nice work though, I am simply going to mark the radii of the ends before drilling and then grind and sand them down, hopefully I will get a decent finish on them. Thanks for posting these videos, they have certainly helped me and I am sure they help others too.
Hi Terry - apologies for my late reply. I don't always seem to get TH-cam notifications! Thanks for the info, and I'm really pleased some of my videos have been of help. Good luck with the 10H. All the best. Andrew
Bend a piece of banding material to put between your parallels to keep pressure on them. We also use stiff die springs if there is enough room for them.
Hi I know I am just seeing this now and it might be a moot point but with the parallels you need to get the part down tighter and put something about the same size in the other side of the jaws of the vise to even out the pressor. With a part sticking out one side of the vise the jaws will close at an angle.
Thanks mate! These little engines really get me thinking and get me outside of my comfort zone. A great way to help develop machining skills. The great thing with Stuart castings is that it's easy to get replacements if one messes up. The no 9 looks really nice. Good luck and I hope it turns out well. Cheers Andrew
Hi, AndrewI used 3/16" gauge plate bolted to my faceplate, onto which I bolted down the Soleplate and Standard for turning.With an M6 central hole, the crankshaft webs could be bolted to the gauge plate through the 6mm crankpins hole and turned to length, with the radius correct by default. I've used 7mm drill rod for the crankshaft, so a piece of K&S brass tube 7mm OD/6mm ID inserted in the 7mm hole allowed the same set up to be used for the other end. A piece of 1/8" brass angle was used to "cradle" the two sections to minimise the chance of them coming apart i.e. the M6 bolt went through the webs, through the brass and into the gauge plate. The brass also acts as a template to get the same length at the second end of the crankpins. In my ignorance, I soft soldered the two webs together, machined them as one then separated and cleaned them. That's when I discovered just how corrosive flux can be if it's not properly neutralised.
Hi Len Many thanks for the advice - that seems like a great solution. I have a faceplate - but I've never used it. Maybe now is the time for me to try it out for machining the Standard? I need to give that some thought. Cheers Andrew
Ey up Tony - that DTI was a real bargain. Looks like I will have to make another clamp for the little SC3. Thanks for helping me spend my hard earned cash!. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew Loving your videos learning a lot Could you tell me where can I buy the engineers red you are using can't find it anywhere ' also where did you buy your milling vice from looks very nice many thanks Andre.
@@learningturningmetal I noticed the drawings do not really say what diameter to turn the crankpin. Seems to scale 3/16 but you used 1/4 for less turning. Not sure why they show the main shaft with a 3/16 drill in the end? Waiting on replacement castings as all came chill hardened and could not be used. Stuart sending replacements which is nice just takes forever to get to USA.
@@gvet47 yeah I machined 1/4" diameter holes in the crankwebs to yake the crankpin. The hole on the end of the crankshaft is not required. It's a historical throwback. Cheers Andrew
Great progress again Andrew! I made my crankshaft the same as you, apart from drilling the pin holes right through which is normal practice I believe. I marked-out the web curves before drilling, then used my belt-sander and file to create the curves. I like the way we can use different methods to achieve the same result - makes life interesting aye🤓 My engine is now done so I need to make a nice base for it - think I'll add reversing gear to it too. Has been a most enjoyable project and I can tell you feel the same way! What shall we make next? Regards
Thanks Clive - and congratulations on completing your engine. A belt sander sounds like a good idea - just wish I had one. At the speed I work I recon I months away from completing this little 10V. I think I will try to go a little bit larger next time - not sure what though. All the best. Andrew
One thing that has struck me from your videos Andrew, is how clean and tidy your lathe and mill are - do you have a shop vac or something? Everything on my workbench ( in my otherwise fairly tidy garage) is covered in swarf and oil!
Ha ha - thanks. I use an old Miele Cat and Dog vac - very powerful! I clean the area up every time I complete each machining task. I recently visited a very respectful engineering company and it was spotless. I definitely recommend some kind of vac. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew i only thought it was me that parallels move in the vice even knocking the work piece down with a brass hammer doesnt stop them moving , i would also love to hear a way to stop them
Yeah it's a bit of a pain. Maybe a curly parallel in between two straight ones. Not that I've got any curly parallels. Magnetic ones might work if there is such a thing. Maybe I'll just buy some blue-tac. All the best. Andrew
Enjoying your 10V engine build. Just subscribed. Will look back at your other videos. I, too, make small stationary engines but from my own designs, from scratch, running on compressed air.. Where do you get your 0.1mm drills from? I have just bought a series of metric reamers in the 3 to 12mm range and am looking for suitable drills. It is suggested that they should be 0.2 and 0.3mm less that the reamer. Can you help?
Hi Keith. I am well impressed at you making your own designs. Way beyond me! I got some .1mm drill bits from chronos.ltd.uk. They have a very large range. When I purchase a reamer I usually google "drill bit size for reamer" and look at the various tables. For a 1/4 inch reamer I aim for a drill size of around 10 to 15 thou less. That seams to work ok for me. I hope that helps. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew Luv the vids I copied your set up but one thing flummoxed me was did you square the vice once you centred everything because i found that when you move the y axis without squaring the vice the radius was off centre when the cutter was used but i bet i was doing something wrong.Your results speak for themselves so keep on going mate.
Thanks Peter - I'm not sure why it didn't work out for you. Two main things are: 1. Rotary table accurately centred on the milling table. 2. Secure the crankweb on the rotary table so that the exact centre of the crankweb is exactly in line with the spindle of the mill. I used a crude method the align the crankweb - a drill bit. Some of my earlier videos make me cringe - but hey I was learning too. If I was to do it again I would use a wiggler. I used a vice to hold the crankweb but you can hold it any way you like as long as you can get the tool in to cut the arc. Hope that helps. All the best. Andrew
When I built my 10h in the 80s the crank was supplied as a single casting, I found it difficult to machine, ok I broke it ! Turned one from bar stock. Obviously I was not the only person who had trouble ?
I think trying to turn one from bar stock would be way beyond my capabilities. I've has 100% success fabricating them, so in no rush to make life more complicated. All the best. Andrew
why not just throw the shaft into the lathe chuck and turn the radius on the lathe ? with low depth of cut and slow feed this should be no problem at all Andrew
You could use magnetic parallels, neodymium magnets are pretty inexpensive and come in a very wide variety of sizes. Drill with a carbide drill and loctite them in place. Also, surprised you didn't silver solder the crank together.
Hi Lee - great idea regarding neodymium magnets - I might just give that a try sometime. A couple of reasons why I didn't silver solder. 1) I hadn't any previous experience of using it and I had read on a forum somewhere that several people had had bad experiences with it. 2) Maybe my lack of understanding, but I would have thought that silver solder would end up creating a gap of a thou or so once cleaned away - so the resulting hole would be marginally smaller and not perfectly round. Making it with a dry joint worked well for me and the resulting hole was to dimension. Coincidentally I have a similar problem at the moment making a split bushing. I think I will have no real option but to use either silver solder, normal solder, loctite or superglue to hold the two halves together. Unless I make a clamp to hold the two halves together, to avoid sticking them together with something. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Cheers Andrew
Great videos- especially showing the oopsie's (we all do them, but don't confess to them) I see them as opportunities.
The parallels!! I put a coil spring between them - it helps keep them vertical when putting the part in the vise, and I suppose a strong enough one would prevent the parallel from sliding.
Just come across your channel tonight. Very honest and very real content. Some great advice to give and take from each video so far. If you learn something or take something away from everything you make then it is a worth while experience in my opinion. thanks
Very thorough and well edited video, great instruction for the novice.
Thanks. Robert
Thanks Robert!
Cheers
Andrew
Hi, i am reall enjoying this series. You have a very calm voice and explain very well. I am trying to glean as much info as i can before starting my engine. From youtubers like yourself and model engineers workshop. I only have a lathe so will have alot of compromising to do!
Wavy parallels would prob not be great for such a short part, try a spring in the vice, clamping so it pushes it against the jaw, it keeps both apart and dont cost much. Take care mate.
I enjoy your videos. Regarding the parallels moving, I generally use compression springs to hold them in place. When there isn’t enough room for springs, a bent strip of spring metal does the trick. The springs also keep chips from getting underneath the parallels.
Thanks for the feeback and tip. I must give that a try.
Cheers
Andrew
I learned a neat trick a while back. You could use a pin vertically in the V of the vise, the same size as the hole in your part, from which you are basing the radius. With a collar slipped on first, your part will be well above the jaws and you simply manually rotate your part. You do need to be very careful, but light cuts work well.
Thanks David. I must remember to try that out sometime.
Cheers
Andrew
Coming along nicely Andrew. When it comes to turning the radiussed ends of the crankwebs you'll probably find it a lot easier if you turn a close fitting mandrel in your lathe to fit the web holes, don't remove the mandrel but use 638 to secure the webs on it then turn the opposite end. In your case as the web holes are different sizes you will need to make 2 different mandrels but it's far quicker and easier than the rotary table. A bit of heat will break the Loctite bond each time 😀
Great idea Peter. I should have thought of that one. Playing with the rotary table was good fun though.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I dread using the old turny table so anything I can come up with to avoid it is fine by me 😀
Great video Andrew. Iam a beginner like you and after watching all your videos you have inspired me to start a project . So i have sent away for the hemming way knurling tool it seems to be a straight forward project for my first one
keep the videos comming
Jimmy
Hi Jimmy
The Hemmingway knirling tool is a great project and you end up with a very useful tool. Good luck mate.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew, another great video, now imagine that X 3 and having to not only the correct spacing, but also 120 degrees apart, that was how I had to machine my Triple crankshaft. I put taper pins all the way through each web and peened the ends over and silver soldered the whole assembly. Never want to make another one. I had to also fit counterweights to each web, Stuart supplied those as cast iron but they still needed machining and fitting with 7 BA studs screwed into the webs but clearance holes in the weights that needed peening over to lock them in place. Vibrating parallels :-)) LOL but seriously, a tip you could also try is a magnet or even a dob of hot glue where it does not get in the way.
Crumbs - a triple crankshaft! That would drive me nuts and it wouldn't be a great outcome.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal The original one supplied by Stuart was 3 blocks pinned and braised onto the main rod. I then had to machine each crank out of the solid block, got to the 3 rd one and had a bad crash that bent the whole thing. I then prefabricated one. If you buy a Stuart Triple now, you have to prefabricate it.
Well done. I am hoping to start on something like this after the holidays.
The reason one of the parallels came loose was probably because when you snugged the vise up the movable jaw rose a little bit and took the pressure off the one parallel. Or, you may not have checked the parallels for movement after using a hammer to seat the parts against the parallels.
Thanks again for sharing your experiences with us.
Thanks Robert - I think I need to get myself a little hammer (or maybe I can make one!).
Good luck with your up and coming project.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew, making a hammer could be a fun project especially if you make the hammer with soft faces that won't mar the surface of what you are using it on.
Hi Andrew,
I got a V10 :) for Christmas so have been watching you and Tinker, Got a good tip from Joe Pieczynski (great guy) if you have any of the strapping that came with your lathe or mill cut a couple of pieces to slightly longer than your mill vice, then bend to form a curve with two straights and when you put your parallels in the vice put one of the straps in as well, it acts like a spring and forces the parallel against the vice side, stops it vibrating out. Hope that makes sense! TFS "thanks for sharing". Regards G :)
Hi Graeme - that's a brilliant tip. Shame I threw all my packaging away. Hope I remember next time I buy a new toy. Good luck with your 10v project.
Cheers
Andrew
an alternative to spring strip is foam rubber. I have some fairly dense foam about 6mm thick that I have cut into strips that I put between the parallels. There is enough compressibility to ensure that the parallels stay where you put them and remain square to the bottom of the vice which is kinda important. I might video the set up in the next day or two to add to my library, a video makes it all clear.
Great idea Chris. Thanks for the tip.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew. I don't design my engines because I'm clever. I'm just tight fisted. My engines are loosely based on someone else's designs but I use whatever materials I can lay my hands on, cheaply. Usually I find some ready made tubing for the cylinders and go from there. None of my attempts at boring cylinders seem to produce a good enough surface finish. This could be down to me, my machine, my tools or my lack of experience. I have a 3 1/2 inch flat bed Drummond lathe that I have motorised. The original was treadle powered. I don't own a milling machine. I get by, by use of a file, hacksaw and belt sander. Keep up the videos. I have learnt a lot from people like yourself. Also Mr pete222, Abom79, Myfordboy so on. Thanks for your advice on reamer drills. Just placed an order for some. Cheers.
Hi Andrew, I am building a 10H, which has exactly the same crankshaft. I also noticed that the maths on the crank did not add up for the width of the crank webs. Also there is nothing missing from the diagram for the crank webs themselves, all the dimensions you need are there. The fact that you had to work out the distance from one end to the web to the centre of the nearest hole is a consequence of the way you marked it out. If the additional dimension that you worked out as 7/32" had been on the diagram then technically the drawing would have been over dimensioned.
Nice work though, I am simply going to mark the radii of the ends before drilling and then grind and sand them down, hopefully I will get a decent finish on them.
Thanks for posting these videos, they have certainly helped me and I am sure they help others too.
Hi Terry - apologies for my late reply. I don't always seem to get TH-cam notifications! Thanks for the info, and I'm really pleased some of my videos have been of help. Good luck with the 10H.
All the best.
Andrew
Nice job.
Bend a piece of banding material to put between your parallels to keep pressure on them. We also use stiff die springs if there is enough room for them.
Thanks Danial - I have some banding material and I'll cut some and put it with the parallels to remind me.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal P.S. I liked how you constructed the crank. 👍👍🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘
That hint from tinker John is a bonus to put in the note book of solutions.
Hi I know I am just seeing this now and it might be a moot point but with the parallels you need to get the part down tighter and put something about the same size in the other side of the jaws of the vise to even out the pressor. With a part sticking out one side of the vise the jaws will close at an angle.
Hi Johnny, thanks for the feedback. I hope my machining skills have improved somewhat since making this video. 🤞
All the best.
Andrew
Fantastic job on the crank! I’m starting a No.9 and your videos are very motivating and confidence building.
Thanks mate! These little engines really get me thinking and get me outside of my comfort zone. A great way to help develop machining skills. The great thing with Stuart castings is that it's easy to get replacements if one messes up. The no 9 looks really nice. Good luck and I hope it turns out well.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi, AndrewI used 3/16" gauge plate bolted to my faceplate, onto which I bolted down the Soleplate and Standard for turning.With an M6 central hole, the crankshaft webs could be bolted to the gauge plate through the 6mm crankpins hole and turned to length, with the radius correct by default. I've used 7mm drill rod for the crankshaft, so a piece of K&S brass tube 7mm OD/6mm ID inserted in the 7mm hole allowed the same set up to be used for the other end. A piece of 1/8" brass angle was used to "cradle" the two sections to minimise the chance of them coming apart i.e. the M6 bolt went through the webs, through the brass and into the gauge plate. The brass also acts as a template to get the same length at the second end of the crankpins. In my ignorance, I soft soldered the two webs together, machined them as one then separated and cleaned them. That's when I discovered just how corrosive flux can be if it's not properly neutralised.
Hi Len
Many thanks for the advice - that seems like a great solution.
I have a faceplate - but I've never used it. Maybe now is the time for me to try it out for machining the Standard? I need to give that some thought.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew hope you get plenty of use out of that long travel DTI, I know how painful it is parting wi sheckles being a Yorkshireman nice video sithee
Ey up Tony - that DTI was a real bargain. Looks like I will have to make another clamp for the little SC3. Thanks for helping me spend my hard earned cash!.
Cheers
Andrew
hi im on making the H10 and I mad the crank out of one peace good vid keep them coming regards bob
Wow - that's impressive Bob (and I bet difficult).
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal hi no its only turning between centers
Hi Andrew
Loving your videos learning a lot
Could you tell me where can I buy the engineers red you are using can't find it anywhere ' also where did you buy your milling vice from looks very nice many thanks
Andre.
Years ago I had these castings and they had a casting for the crank. Guess they no longer doing that. Did they supply the material to make the crank?
Hi - yeah Stuart supplied all the material.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I noticed the drawings do not really say what diameter to turn the crankpin. Seems to scale 3/16 but you used 1/4 for less turning. Not sure why they show the main shaft with a 3/16 drill in the end? Waiting on replacement castings as all came chill hardened and could not be used. Stuart sending replacements which is nice just takes forever to get to USA.
@@gvet47 yeah I machined 1/4" diameter holes in the crankwebs to yake the crankpin. The hole on the end of the crankshaft is not required. It's a historical throwback.
Cheers
Andrew
Great progress again Andrew! I made my crankshaft the same as you, apart from drilling the pin holes right through which is normal practice I believe. I marked-out the web curves before drilling, then used my belt-sander and file to create the curves. I like the way we can use different methods to achieve the same result - makes life interesting aye🤓 My engine is now done so I need to make a nice base for it - think I'll add reversing gear to it too. Has been a most enjoyable project and I can tell you feel the same way! What shall we make next? Regards
Thanks Clive - and congratulations on completing your engine. A belt sander sounds like a good idea - just wish I had one.
At the speed I work I recon I months away from completing this little 10V. I think I will try to go a little bit larger next time - not sure what though.
All the best.
Andrew
One thing that has struck me from your videos Andrew, is how clean and tidy your lathe and mill are - do you have a shop vac or something? Everything on my workbench ( in my otherwise fairly tidy garage) is covered in swarf and oil!
Ha ha - thanks. I use an old Miele Cat and Dog vac - very powerful! I clean the area up every time I complete each machining task. I recently visited a very respectful engineering company and it was spotless. I definitely recommend some kind of vac.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal No danger of the swarf damaging the innards? That could be a good shout!
@@williamsworkshopuk I don't think so. It's got very good disposable bags with excellent filtration.
Andrew check out Clickspring and his Antikythera Mechanism if you haven't already. Awesome.
Amazing!
Hi Andrew i only thought it was me that parallels move in the vice even knocking the work piece down with a brass hammer doesnt stop them moving , i would also love to hear a way to stop them
Yeah it's a bit of a pain. Maybe a curly parallel in between two straight ones. Not that I've got any curly parallels. Magnetic ones might work if there is such a thing. Maybe I'll just buy some blue-tac.
All the best.
Andrew
Enjoying your 10V engine build. Just subscribed. Will look back at your other videos. I, too, make small stationary engines but from my own designs, from scratch, running on compressed air.. Where do you get your 0.1mm drills from? I have just bought a series of metric reamers in the 3 to 12mm range and am looking for suitable drills. It is suggested that they should be 0.2 and 0.3mm less that the reamer. Can you help?
Hi Keith. I am well impressed at you making your own designs. Way beyond me! I got some .1mm drill bits from chronos.ltd.uk. They have a very large range. When I purchase a reamer I usually google "drill bit size for reamer" and look at the various tables. For a 1/4 inch reamer I aim for a drill size of around 10 to 15 thou less. That seams to work ok for me.
I hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew
Luv the vids
I copied your set up but one thing flummoxed me was did you square the vice once
you centred everything because i found that when you move the y axis without squaring the vice the radius was off centre
when the cutter was used but i bet i was doing something wrong.Your results speak for themselves so keep on going mate.
Thanks Peter - I'm not sure why it didn't work out for you.
Two main things are:
1. Rotary table accurately centred on the milling table.
2. Secure the crankweb on the rotary table so that the exact centre of the crankweb is exactly in line with the spindle of the mill. I used a crude method the align the crankweb - a drill bit. Some of my earlier videos make me cringe - but hey I was learning too. If I was to do it again I would use a wiggler. I used a vice to hold the crankweb but you can hold it any way you like as long as you can get the tool in to cut the arc.
Hope that helps.
All the best.
Andrew
When I built my 10h in the 80s the crank was supplied as a single casting, I found it difficult to machine, ok I broke it ! Turned one from bar stock. Obviously I was not the only person who had trouble ?
I think trying to turn one from bar stock would be way beyond my capabilities. I've has 100% success fabricating them, so in no rush to make life more complicated.
All the best.
Andrew
I like to pin and then silver-braze my crankshafts.
why not just throw the shaft into the lathe chuck and turn the radius on the lathe ? with low depth of cut and slow feed this should be no problem at all Andrew
Tinker John is a Texan, and as such should be taken only in moderation.
lol
You could use magnetic parallels, neodymium magnets are pretty inexpensive and come in a very wide variety of sizes. Drill with a carbide drill and loctite them in place. Also, surprised you didn't silver solder the crank together.
Hi Lee - great idea regarding neodymium magnets - I might just give that a try sometime. A couple of reasons why I didn't silver solder. 1) I hadn't any previous experience of using it and I had read on a forum somewhere that several people had had bad experiences with it. 2) Maybe my lack of understanding, but I would have thought that silver solder would end up creating a gap of a thou or so once cleaned away - so the resulting hole would be marginally smaller and not perfectly round. Making it with a dry joint worked well for me and the resulting hole was to dimension. Coincidentally I have a similar problem at the moment making a split bushing. I think I will have no real option but to use either silver solder, normal solder, loctite or superglue to hold the two halves together. Unless I make a clamp to hold the two halves together, to avoid sticking them together with something. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew. Send me an email and I'll send you some pics of the carriage stop with integral short/long throw DTI holder that I made for my Sieg SC3.
Thanks Jon. I've just sent you an email. Very much appreciated.
Cheers
Andrew