This video was uploaded just on time! This week im getting my first dirtbike, a ktm 200 exc 2007 with 300 hours on it. I’ll change the piston but i wanted to check the bottom end as well, I’m hoping it’s in good shape so I can start riding earlier. The video was very helpful!
First time doing top end myself. Started this week and your video could not have dorp at a better time, was wondering about my side to side play on the rod and now i know what to look for . Super helpful! Thanks for the video, it is very educational and helps a lot. Keep up the good work.
The lateral play (side to side) is specified in the owners manual and can fairly easy be measured with feeler gauges. Wouldn't it be good to have a spec on the axial play ("top-down") too? I think it can be measured with a dial gauge (like the one you're using). Question is what is allowed...
Ah, sounds like one of the crank seals failed. That's too bad. Certainly if I rebuild my bottom end I'll make a video, but that hopefully won't be for a while on one of my bikes ;-)
Sorry but I don’t have a maximum number as it’s not specified by KTM. If you perform the measurement each time you change the piston it will provide a useful indication and may help you decide on whether the bottom end requires overhauling.
@@braenzlig426 I'm using a a Keihin PWK 38mm Air Striker Short with a STIC metering block. Jets are 50 pilot, 182 main, N3EJ needle 3rd clip and air screw 2 turns out.
No, I asked about the side rock, but the dealer didn’t have a spec and it’s not a measurement they do. There is no spec for it in the service manual. I couldn’t find any specs online either. It’s still a useful measurement to monitor over time and is easy to do.
sorry Tokyo ... your crank is NOT in such an O.k. condition ! you didn't put the 0.75mm gauge in for the low end side clearance !!! i saw how the 0.7 went in, but 0.7 IS the limit ! i'm sure the 0.75 could also be put in,with minimal friction felt, even if the 0.8 didn't go in - hence : YOUR CRANK AIN'T SO GOOD ANYMORE ! and if you'll give it a new piston/rings set, you'll have a low end rebuild sooner than you think :-( truth is always bad,but it's better than denial ! i mean, it's not gonna happen in few hours, but my bet is no more than another 50 hours. especially if the bike "works hard" most of the time. please correct me if i'm wrong , i wish i am !
The gap between the conrod and webs is required to allow oil (premix) to lubricate the conrod big end bearing. It will not change during the lifetime of the crank, unless the crank webs move on the rod pin. If the crank webs move on the rod they would typically rotate on the pin, not move in/out laterally and you’ll notice a lot of vibration as the crank will become unbalanced. While measuring the gap is a good check to make, the accuracy is not critical as it is not a wear monitoring measurement. The other checks shown in the video (feeling for play and lateral wobble are far more important and provide a good indication of whether a rebuild is required, or not.
@@TokyoOffroad that's true. i'm glad to be wrong ! and if i may add, what i do is checking the radial play of the lower end while the gauge leaf is in that gap (not stuck! ) ,thus getting an easier more accurate feel of the conrod up/down play ... recently i checked the play in my CR500R, and i was surprised to see the crank is o.k. - after 220 hours !!!! is that a lot, or is it normal for CR500s ? any experience?
Top notch video.. You explain things very well.. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This video was uploaded just on time! This week im getting my first dirtbike, a ktm 200 exc 2007 with 300 hours on it. I’ll change the piston but i wanted to check the bottom end as well, I’m hoping it’s in good shape so I can start riding earlier. The video was very helpful!
First time doing top end myself. Started this week and your video could not have dorp at a better time, was wondering about my side to side play on the rod and now i know what to look for . Super helpful! Thanks for the video, it is very educational and helps a lot. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Pleased that you found the video useful...
This was absolutely what I was hoping to see covered. Thank you
Amazing - exactly what I needed - thanks for this content - invaluable!
Excellent as always
good info very well explained
The lateral play (side to side) is specified in the owners manual and can fairly easy be measured with feeler gauges. Wouldn't it be good to have a spec on the axial play ("top-down") too? I think it can be measured with a dial gauge (like the one you're using). Question is what is allowed...
Cool, thanks!
Very informative thanks 🙏
Very helpfull! Thanks 👍
After 220 hrs my 17 KTM 300 needs a bottom end (gear oil in the exhaust). Was hopeful you would do that job so I have something to go off of!
Ah, sounds like one of the crank seals failed. That's too bad. Certainly if I rebuild my bottom end I'll make a video, but that hopefully won't be for a while on one of my bikes ;-)
what threshold is normal when you measuring movement of Con rod? there was 0,8 and +- 0,4 ? so there if maximum is 1,2mm?
Thanks,
Sorry but I don’t have a maximum number as it’s not specified by KTM. If you perform the measurement each time you change the piston it will provide a useful indication and may help you decide on whether the bottom end requires overhauling.
Great vid, do you think KTM 4-stroke bottom end would last the same as a two-stroke bottom end,
KRP - Yes, KTM 4-stroke bottom ends also are renowned for robustness and should be similar.
nice vid ! can you tell me you setup for the carb ? that would be really nice
What bike do you have?
@@TokyoOffroad im riding a gasgas ec 300 which has also keihin 38. just interested if there are big differences in the jetting...
@@braenzlig426 I'm using a a Keihin PWK 38mm Air Striker Short with a STIC metering block. Jets are 50 pilot, 182 main, N3EJ needle 3rd clip and air screw 2 turns out.
Great videos 👍🏽
Pleased to hear that you like the videos
Have you the link for KTM service manual?
Tommaso Frigo - I purchased the DVD version of the service manual from my KTM dealer
Can you provide a link to the service manual ?
I purchase my service manuals (DVD versions) from my local KTM dealer. Some of my friends have purchased from kristofsx.com
Did you end up getting a side deflection spec from the KTM dealer ?
No, I asked about the side rock, but the dealer didn’t have a spec and it’s not a measurement they do. There is no spec for it in the service manual. I couldn’t find any specs online either. It’s still a useful measurement to monitor over time and is easy to do.
Would you say this applies to their 4 strokes as well?
shift_love - Yes, the same checks and measurements apply to 4-strokes too.
sorry Tokyo ... your crank is NOT in such an O.k. condition ! you didn't put the 0.75mm gauge in for the low end side clearance !!! i saw how the 0.7 went in, but 0.7 IS the limit ! i'm sure the 0.75 could also be put in,with minimal friction felt, even if the 0.8 didn't go in - hence : YOUR CRANK AIN'T SO GOOD ANYMORE ! and if you'll give it a new piston/rings set, you'll have a low end rebuild sooner than you think :-( truth is always bad,but it's better than denial ! i mean, it's not gonna happen in few hours, but my bet is no more than another 50 hours. especially if the bike "works hard" most of the time. please correct me if i'm wrong , i wish i am !
The gap between the conrod and webs is required to allow oil (premix) to lubricate the conrod big end bearing. It will not change during the lifetime of the crank, unless the crank webs move on the rod pin. If the crank webs move on the rod they would typically rotate on the pin, not move in/out laterally and you’ll notice a lot of vibration as the crank will become unbalanced. While measuring the gap is a good check to make, the accuracy is not critical as it is not a wear monitoring measurement. The other checks shown in the video (feeling for play and lateral wobble are far more important and provide a good indication of whether a rebuild is required, or not.
@@TokyoOffroad that's true. i'm glad to be wrong ! and if i may add, what i do is checking the radial play of the lower end while the gauge leaf is in that gap (not stuck! ) ,thus getting an easier more accurate feel of the conrod up/down play ... recently i checked the play in my CR500R, and i was surprised to see the crank is o.k. - after 220 hours !!!! is that a lot, or is it normal for CR500s ? any experience?
3:05 is that a crack up the top left?
Its a casting mark.
As Sidecarbod commented, it looks like a casting mark