Did this job today, took me 4 hours which in the end I was happy with as expected this to be a total nightmare. The easiest way is to cut the pipe just above the joint with the cat using a reciprocating saw from above by removing the air box, battery and battery tray, plus undoing some brackets holding a pipe running just above the exhaust manifold. This gives you the room to push the saw through the tangles of pipes and cables. Once you have cut the pipe you can cut the rest of the pipe run out quickly as the saw cuts through very quick. Once you have removed the whole system this opens up space through a small tunnel over the top of the front subframe where you can get to the exhaust nuts. Hammer on a 15mm recovery socket on to the nuts and use breaker bar through the tunnel and the nuts will come off easy. Upon reassembly use new nuts and a gasket from ford. It's tight once you put the new pipe in as the tunnel will now be filled with the flexi joint but you can get a 15mm ring spanner in to do the lower nut up and finish the upper one from above in the engine bay. If doing this on the ground you will need to remove the bracing bar underneath the car in the middle as you cannot manoeuvre the long exhaust section enough to fit over this. Hope this helps
@@brettparker708 It's a job which in reality should take an hour given you're doing all this work to undo two bolts and take pull the exhaust off some hangers. If it was designed properly you shouldn't have to go through all this hassle.
Hi, that bracing bar.... on mine, the nuts and studs are all badly corroded like it's never been off, , do you reckon it's got to be removed to replace the exhaust middle section IF it can be done on a lift by an exhaust place as I'm dreading attempting to undo those corroded nuts, if a stud snaps will be impossible to replace.
@@marknorman8112 they are fitted before the subframe is fitted, in the same manner as the fuel and brake pipes are, that`s why certain jobs on these Fiesta`s are difficult.
@@nicam49 Tu lištu, která drží na 8 šroubech jsem musel před nedávnem demontovat, abych vyměnil lanovody ruční brzdy. Vnější 4 šrouby jsem utrhl, jak byly silně zkorodované. Naštěstí 4 vnitřní přežily.😊 Tak aspoň na 4 šroubech bude lišta zase držet.😅 Jinak musím říct, že Ford j opravdu nepřítel pro servisy. Mám ještě Ford c-max 2008 a měnit zde výfuk bude peklo...
I know it's a long time ago now, but did you have to remove that cross piece just forward of the petrol tank, that the centre pipe goes over the top of? On mine, the nuts n bolts holding the cross-section in place are badly corroded and I doubt I'll successfully remove them...
how did you do the blue pipes i have a 1.4 fusion i'm starting messing around with also needs exhaust 🤣 im trying to run it where the cold air intake is near grill
I ordered a 1 meter straight silicone pipe from eBay and 2 90 degree sections. I then cut the straight silicone hose into two shorter pieces. So I was able to have 1 90 degree section come off the throttle body onto the first section of straight, then a 90 degrees around the oil filler, into another straight so the cone could sit in that gap on the right in front of the battery. The pipes were connected with stainless steel couplers and jubilee clips, it was a bit ratchet but it did the job 😊
My older MK6 2002 Fiesta needed a new exhaust last year September 2020 ,Wasnt worth my time doing it so got a local exhaust garage to do it .£160 fully fitted in 30 minutes ! not worth the hassle to do it yourself thesedays .My 07 Fiesta needs the same job doing so will pay them again etc ,really not more in the cost than buying it yourself when you add on all the work you got to do .
Yeah that's true, I enjoy working on the car though so it's like a sense of achievement and I learn something new, the time and money does sometimes feel like a lot of work and hassle but I also get to make these videos out of doing it myself too
In the middle of replacing my whole exhaust system from front to back, i got the centre plate off, the two front bolts up at the front look a nightmare, something that should be nice and easy turns into the worst, wish me luck.
Helping someone do this and they have the same problem and just a bit of advice the intake you installed is worse than the OEM why well 1 the OEM is actually a cold air intake yours is breathing in hot air 2 how yours is connected it is restricting the air flow ideally you want it the airflow smooth so your better off buying a performance air filter that fits in the OEM air filter box
I tried to get mine off today bolts would not budge they need grinding off. Ended up cutting backbox off ( cut it slightly too short ) so bodged it together with gum gum metal tape and 2 exhaust clamps it doesn’t leak or blow so far 🤣🤣
www.eurocarparts.com/p/k-n-induction-kit-508590050 that's where I got the original K & N one, then I bought the blue silicone pipes from eBay separately (the pipes alone cost me about £100) and the induction kit costs about £110 without the euro car parts discount
Getting the flange bolts off (the ones to disconnect the flexipipe from the catalytic converter) they're on the top of the pipe and access is limited. My bolts were probably the originals so they were well rusted on and hardened from all the heat cycles. I'd recommend a flexi-head ratchet and some Irwin bolt extractors if you round the nut!!!! Good luck 🤞
Rusty nuts/bolts seems to be the hardest part of any job on older vehicles, I've a rusty nut/rounded head on the bolt that goes through rear axle bush 🤬 I'm going to have a go with a nut splitter, to get it off. Do you think you could just split the nut on those bolts on the exhaust you had problems with?
@@brettparker708 I've wasted £25 on tools to remove rusted nut/bolts, one of thems a nut splitter which probably won't work. I'm trying to save money and do it myself, not working out that way. 😭
Greetings from South Africa. In my opinion, stock exhaust all the way if the car is used for every day driving. The stock exhaust on the 1.25l and 1.4l models sounds a bit too throaty and sporty to my liking but on the 1.6l models it sounds much better.
@@brettparker708 I've also noticed that sometimes the stock exhaust on the 1.6l models can also sount a bit throaty but fortunately don't have a sporty drone like on the 1.25l and 1.4l models. I've also heard a few stock exhausts on some Mk7 models and they don't sound throaty at all which is really nice. I was officially introduced to the Fiesta through the Mk6 (pre-facelift) with the 1.4l engine. I personally prefer the Mk6 facelift for it's more neat and tidy exterior but I wish the boot would open like it does on the Mk7 models where you just press something on the boot lid itself rather than either using the key outside or pressing a button inside. My family currently has a 2011 model Figo which is basically a continuation of the Mk6 Fiesta but with a few exterior design changes at the front and back So it isn't really a fully 100% direct continuation of the Mk6 bit it only comes with the 1.4l petrol engine which is a bit annoying in my opinion.
Yeah the boot thing annoys me so much 😂 I hate having to run round to the drivers side to open the boot to have to run back to the rear of the car again 🤦♂️
@@brettparker708 Our one doesn't work any more so we now only have the option of opening it with the key. Our exhaust also has a hole in it somewhere because it sounds a lot more throaty and sporty than usual but even before the hole developed in June-July last year it still sounded too throaty and sporty for a stock system. Out of curiosity, is your car a 1.4l or a 1.6l? For us in South Africa we only get the 1.4l engine in the Mk6-Fiesta-based Figo.
My last fiesta was a 1.4l but this one is a 1.25l as it is more economical with quite a high mpg, but just lacks the power. We have the 1.25, 1.4, 1.6 or 2l ones here in the UK (obviously the 2l are the st150s)
I can´t disconnect thethe pipe from catalytic converter also. These day I´m working on it. Both bolts are destroyed and I have to pull out catalytic converter to restore two flange holes and also I will swap second lambda sensor. I cannot take it out. This is horribly invented.
Have you tried purchasing a set of Irwin bolt extractors (or any brand really... But Irwin's are my absolute favourite) they can get any sort of rounded bolt off, that's how we got my last bolt off. You will need a lot of penetrating fluid like WD40 and a good set of bolt extractors, that way you will be able to take the flange bolts off without having to remove the whole catalytic converter. Best of luck 😊
@@brettparker708 Yeah I´ve noticed that these nuts exists and could be very helpful. But there´s the thing if it´s commonly used in Czech republic so if it´s on stock. I have to already get it out. Both bolts on cat-exhaust connection are destroyed. It holds now on one bolt and I will take it down with bolt cutters... maybe thats also the reason why are copper nuts used on high temperature stressed parts like exhausts. I´m not experienced with that yet... and yes of course WD-40... alot of it is gonna be used for nuts holding the Cat in line with the torch.
Did this job today, took me 4 hours which in the end I was happy with as expected this to be a total nightmare. The easiest way is to cut the pipe just above the joint with the cat using a reciprocating saw from above by removing the air box, battery and battery tray, plus undoing some brackets holding a pipe running just above the exhaust manifold. This gives you the room to push the saw through the tangles of pipes and cables. Once you have cut the pipe you can cut the rest of the pipe run out quickly as the saw cuts through very quick. Once you have removed the whole system this opens up space through a small tunnel over the top of the front subframe where you can get to the exhaust nuts. Hammer on a 15mm recovery socket on to the nuts and use breaker bar through the tunnel and the nuts will come off easy. Upon reassembly use new nuts and a gasket from ford. It's tight once you put the new pipe in as the tunnel will now be filled with the flexi joint but you can get a 15mm ring spanner in to do the lower nut up and finish the upper one from above in the engine bay. If doing this on the ground you will need to remove the bracing bar underneath the car in the middle as you cannot manoeuvre the long exhaust section enough to fit over this. Hope this helps
Yeah that's some good timing tbh, only 4 hours?! Congrats 😂 the way you did it sounds a lot easier 👍👍
@@brettparker708 It's a job which in reality should take an hour given you're doing all this work to undo two bolts and take pull the exhaust off some hangers. If it was designed properly you shouldn't have to go through all this hassle.
Hi, that bracing bar.... on mine, the nuts and studs are all badly corroded like it's never been off, , do you reckon it's got to be removed to replace the exhaust middle section IF it can be done on a lift by an exhaust place as I'm dreading attempting to undo those corroded nuts, if a stud snaps will be impossible to replace.
@@marknorman8112 they are fitted before the subframe is fitted, in the same manner as the fuel and brake pipes are, that`s why certain jobs on these Fiesta`s are difficult.
@@nicam49 Tu lištu, která drží na 8 šroubech jsem musel před nedávnem demontovat, abych vyměnil lanovody ruční brzdy. Vnější 4 šrouby jsem utrhl, jak byly silně zkorodované. Naštěstí 4 vnitřní přežily.😊 Tak aspoň na 4 šroubech bude lišta zase držet.😅 Jinak musím říct, že Ford j opravdu nepřítel pro servisy. Mám ještě Ford c-max 2008 a měnit zde výfuk bude peklo...
The bad backbox actually sounded quite nice and sporty haha
Yeah I know 😅 thinking of changing the backbox to something more sporty sometime down the line (this time without holes in it)
Drop front subframe? Time consuming but far easier?
I know it's a long time ago now, but did you have to remove that cross piece just forward of the petrol tank, that the centre pipe goes over the top of? On mine, the nuts n bolts holding the cross-section in place are badly corroded and I doubt I'll successfully remove them...
8 10mm nuts that break, ive got 4 left, should be ok! i see you in about a month! 🤣
how did you do the blue pipes i have a 1.4 fusion i'm starting messing around with also needs exhaust 🤣 im trying to run it where the cold air intake is near grill
I ordered a 1 meter straight silicone pipe from eBay and 2 90 degree sections. I then cut the straight silicone hose into two shorter pieces. So I was able to have 1 90 degree section come off the throttle body onto the first section of straight, then a 90 degrees around the oil filler, into another straight so the cone could sit in that gap on the right in front of the battery. The pipes were connected with stainless steel couplers and jubilee clips, it was a bit ratchet but it did the job 😊
My older MK6 2002 Fiesta needed a new exhaust last year September 2020 ,Wasnt worth my time doing it so got a local exhaust garage to do it .£160 fully fitted in 30 minutes ! not worth the hassle to do it yourself thesedays .My 07 Fiesta needs the same job doing so will pay them again etc ,really not more in the cost than buying it yourself when you add on all the work you got to do .
Yeah that's true, I enjoy working on the car though so it's like a sense of achievement and I learn something new, the time and money does sometimes feel like a lot of work and hassle but I also get to make these videos out of doing it myself too
In the middle of replacing my whole exhaust system from front to back, i got the centre plate off, the two front bolts up at the front look a nightmare, something that should be nice and easy turns into the worst, wish me luck.
Helping someone do this and they have the same problem and just a bit of advice the intake you installed is worse than the OEM why well 1 the OEM is actually a cold air intake yours is breathing in hot air 2 how yours is connected it is restricting the air flow ideally you want it the airflow smooth so your better off buying a performance air filter that fits in the OEM air filter box
I have a 1.4 tdci and my exhaust show rust too... 2 small holes 😅
I tried to get mine off today bolts would not budge they need grinding off. Ended up cutting backbox off ( cut it slightly too short ) so bodged it together with gum gum metal tape and 2 exhaust clamps it doesn’t leak or blow so far 🤣🤣
Wasn`t a Black one was it? only, that`s pretty much what mine is like
@@Stickleback nah my mum has it now and my bodge repair is still holding up perfectly! I even trimmed off the tape so you can’t see it at all.
@@dexietyy7922 👍
Think the flange bolts are 17"?
Why not just weld the exhaust ?
Have you got a link for the air filter and that?
www.eurocarparts.com/p/k-n-induction-kit-508590050 that's where I got the original K & N one, then I bought the blue silicone pipes from eBay separately (the pipes alone cost me about £100) and the induction kit costs about £110 without the euro car parts discount
thanks for this
How much do you charge? My exhaust has certainly had its days, it buggered.
I don't do this for a job or anything, this just needed doing on my car so thought I'd save a few pennies and do it myself 😅
What was the hardest part of the job? What would you do differently? I've got this to attempt!
Getting the flange bolts off (the ones to disconnect the flexipipe from the catalytic converter) they're on the top of the pipe and access is limited. My bolts were probably the originals so they were well rusted on and hardened from all the heat cycles. I'd recommend a flexi-head ratchet and some Irwin bolt extractors if you round the nut!!!! Good luck 🤞
Rusty nuts/bolts seems to be the hardest part of any job on older vehicles, I've a rusty nut/rounded head on the bolt that goes through rear axle bush 🤬 I'm going to have a go with a nut splitter, to get it off. Do you think you could just split the nut on those bolts on the exhaust you had problems with?
I tried with a cheap nut splitter but it just damaged the splitter, but that could be down to the quality of the tool really
@@brettparker708 I've wasted £25 on tools to remove rusted nut/bolts, one of thems a nut splitter which probably won't work. I'm trying to save money and do it myself, not working out that way. 😭
That's usually how it goes... Try to DIY and save some money but end up spending more time and money on it than the garage 😅😂
Greetings from South Africa. In my opinion, stock exhaust all the way if the car is used for every day driving. The stock exhaust on the 1.25l and 1.4l models sounds a bit too throaty and sporty to my liking but on the 1.6l models it sounds much better.
Yeah the car sits at such high revs on the motorway even in 5th, so the exhaust would just drone the whole time
@@brettparker708 I've also noticed that sometimes the stock exhaust on the 1.6l models can also sount a bit throaty but fortunately don't have a sporty drone like on the 1.25l and 1.4l models. I've also heard a few stock exhausts on some Mk7 models and they don't sound throaty at all which is really nice. I was officially introduced to the Fiesta through the Mk6 (pre-facelift) with the 1.4l engine. I personally prefer the Mk6 facelift for it's more neat and tidy exterior but I wish the boot would open like it does on the Mk7 models where you just press something on the boot lid itself rather than either using the key outside or pressing a button inside. My family currently has a 2011 model Figo which is basically a continuation of the Mk6 Fiesta but with a few exterior design changes at the front and back So it isn't really a fully 100% direct continuation of the Mk6 bit it only comes with the 1.4l petrol engine which is a bit annoying in my opinion.
Yeah the boot thing annoys me so much 😂 I hate having to run round to the drivers side to open the boot to have to run back to the rear of the car again 🤦♂️
@@brettparker708 Our one doesn't work any more so we now only have the option of opening it with the key. Our exhaust also has a hole in it somewhere because it sounds a lot more throaty and sporty than usual but even before the hole developed in June-July last year it still sounded too throaty and sporty for a stock system. Out of curiosity, is your car a 1.4l or a 1.6l? For us in South Africa we only get the 1.4l engine in the Mk6-Fiesta-based Figo.
My last fiesta was a 1.4l but this one is a 1.25l as it is more economical with quite a high mpg, but just lacks the power. We have the 1.25, 1.4, 1.6 or 2l ones here in the UK (obviously the 2l are the st150s)
hi mate, good video, if you do end up doing another one, use wd40 on the rubber hangers makes it a thousand times easier to slide off
I tried using washing up liquid but as you can see it was still a struggle but I'll try WD40 next time thanks 😅
I prefer the old exhaust tbh
Impact driver to remove stubborn nuts and bolts mate with a WD40 soak over night 👍
I can´t disconnect thethe pipe from catalytic converter also. These day I´m working on it.
Both bolts are destroyed and I have to pull out catalytic converter to restore two flange holes and also I will swap second lambda sensor. I cannot take it out. This is horribly invented.
Have you tried purchasing a set of Irwin bolt extractors (or any brand really... But Irwin's are my absolute favourite) they can get any sort of rounded bolt off, that's how we got my last bolt off. You will need a lot of penetrating fluid like WD40 and a good set of bolt extractors, that way you will be able to take the flange bolts off without having to remove the whole catalytic converter. Best of luck 😊
@@brettparker708 Yeah I´ve noticed that these nuts exists and could be very helpful. But there´s the thing if it´s commonly used in Czech republic so if it´s on stock.
I have to already get it out. Both bolts on cat-exhaust connection are destroyed.
It holds now on one bolt and I will take it down with bolt cutters... maybe thats also the reason why are copper nuts used on high temperature stressed parts like exhausts. I´m not experienced with that yet... and yes of course WD-40... alot of it is gonna be used for nuts holding the Cat in line with the torch.
We have it out!
Nice one!!!