I just got the MT7 pro and some friend told me to strictly use Magura’s brake disc which are 2.0mm thick, instead of regular ones (1.8mm), as pistons may tend to get out of position. Have you heard this before?
@@tioconejo3138 if you fully wear your pads (to the metal) and wear out your rotors it would affect it, as long as you regularly replace what is necessary when it is necessary it shouldn't ever be a problem
Are the HC3 levers really worth the money? I was going to buy the MT7 Pros 45th anniversary in orange with the HC3s for $560 but I found someone on pinkbike selling the regular MT7s brand new with two rotors for $425 and I couldnt pass it up.
Apparently it only works with the normal lever, there's a cam in the knob so it slightly moves the brake inwards with the normal hc1 lever, with the hc3 lever it sits in a different spot so it doesn't do anything
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 haha. Found all that out ages ago. Went with the hc3 levers on both my mt7s and my wife's mt5s, never looked back. I love Magura brakes. They're so much easier to get a perfect bleed on too. Never using any other brakes again. 😁
That’s a fairly good review video, straight to the point, no bull s... talk, some pros, and cons, and nice to hear as well as you try some different set up rather than brand box. Honestly I am planning to get mt5 or new model mt5 eStop and pair them with a shimano “sandwich” ice tech rotors with a 1 or maybe 2finger levers(as I’m ex trial rider and love bite point super sharp and modulation have in a tips of my fingers), don’t decided yet. All the best, shred hard and live long🤘
konar1616 thanks bro 🙏🏻 yeah there is certainly a few options for setup. The HC3 levers were designed with Danny McCaskil so they are pretty good out of the box with that crucial leverage adjustment. The Race ( sintered ) lads have a bit more bite than the organics the brakes come with which you might like.
The Duke of MTB hey bro, thx for chiming in. No I haven’t. I have sent the Shimano XTR levers mixed n matched with a few brakes but not the MT7. Interesting concept! I get hooked up with free Magura stuff so I try not to stray too far from their standard options ( they already hate I use Hope rotors and pop the Calliper dress rings out 🤣)
Hi @The Dukes of MTB you should watch one clip of Ali Clarkson, he put that shimono/magura setup in his street trial machine and explain a bit why. All best🤘
It would be the best of both worlds! But use xtr trail levers(9020 or 9120), yep expensive, but well worth it. I'm riding such setup for 2 years now, without any bleeding, without wonderring bite point, but with exceptional power and my favourite Shimano brake lever feel.
I love my Mt7’s I haven’t had to bleed them at all. I work at a bike shop and have seen many other brakes that come through. The Mt7 with the carbon fiber composite master cylinder is very strong compared to other brands. They are one of my favorites.
Mt7 are indeed good brakes! But as a shimano guy, I've been riding XT brakes throughout. But after some little crash, I managed to brake those small plastic guide parts for servo-wave mechanism(what a silly shitt those constructors/desiners are to make xt brake lever in that way) and my xt lever became trash unfortunately. So I bought xtr 9120 levers, which are constructed like from another world and after a while bought some mt7 Pro Callipers. And I am pretty much sure, that ShiGura brakes are the best out there in this particular reality! Xtr levers are a piece of technological art as well as mt7 callipers with those 4 pad per calliiper options. Absolutely best combo regarding power, modulation, feel, reliability.
disagree. couldn't get the reach close enough to the bar, bled it couple of times. Didn't overfill it. Reach adjustment is dialed all the way in but breaking point is still too far away from the bar. Used Saint levers though. Switched back to mt7 levers for now... well brake power however - holy moly, sometimes even felt unhealthy how strong that combo was.
@@Caaynee you might not belive me, but bled my brakes just once. It was when I installed them 2 years ago. That's it! No service at all, except of another brake pad set. And bite point is dead on all the time, though I do not set it on extremes, it is about the midle position, maybe a tiny bit closer. Going to change brake fluid at the begining of the next sesson and will see how they perform after that.
The rumor about the floating Magura rotors has been confirmed, already for sale, they market them as E bike rotors, already in online shop in Norway, think it came out 2 months ago.
@@SteveGouldChewy your editing is on point and you speak very clearly to the camera, honestly I have seen many more youtubers with less editing skills and less charisma with more followers. its just a matter of more uploads now
I've got Magura MT Trail brake set, these brakes are awesome and all, but the amount of lever travel before the actual braking is awkwardly big, i even can't activate them with the reach screw all the way out. Maybe they aren't bled properly, but I'm still happy. Nice video by the way!
Definitely sounds like a bleeding issue bro. I have those on my DJ bike and they are awesome. Ask around the bike shops, see if you can find a good mechanic. It will change your experience vastly. Ride On.
If bleeding won't help, try to switch to Shimano brake levers. Xtr(9020 or 9120) are the best out there in terms of reliability, functionality and weight. If you do so, you'll definately get that sharp on/off brake feel which you used to and still have plenty of modulation + insane power under your finger. Oh, and NO for 2 finger handles! You need only one indexing finger for braking, even if you are in top 10 downhill racets.
Hi Steve great video. Very informative! I recently chAnged to mt7 pros and I have had nothing but issues with noise! I ha E changed different pads, cleaned the rotors thoroughly, sanded the pads, and I can't win. I'm running the 203mm hc rotors. You mention they are pants in your video. Could the noise be due to the rotors themselves? Not sure what else I can do. I have not even ridden in the wet yet!
Thx buddy. 🤔 there is a bunch of factors that could be the source of your noise and it’s hard for me to diagnose without being present to hear it. If it’s a squeaky sound it could be contaminants ( stray oil mist, oily finger prints etc ) or a glazed disc / pads. You can try sanding the rotors and pads and try re-bedding them in ( wet the rotors with a water bottle with a hole in the lid and do a bunch of aggressive hard stops ) or the noise could be from the venting cut into the rotors ( my MDR-Ps are quite noisey but from normal operation ) Your best bet is to take it to a bike shop that has an experienced mechanic I reckon.
@@SteveGouldChewy Thanks for response. I have sanded, wet, tried different pads, you name it! i am thinking of trying shimano 203mm rotors to see if that will make a difference. you mention that you did use the hope rotors which are 1.8mm thick as opposed to the Storms which are 2.0mm thick. was this an issue at all for you?
There was some clearance issues with the hope rotors so maybe stick with Magura. What sort of noise is it making. It could be some inherent resonance that is just unlucky. I remember some of the World Cup Downhill riders using some type of vibration damping devices on their callipers at one stage but I’m pretty sure they were Shimano brakes.
Very good video. No need for video, just voice. I just got the MT7 pro and some friend told me to strictly use Magura’s brake disc which are 2.0mm thick, instead of regular ones (1.8mm), as pistons may tend to get out of position. Have you heard this before?
Tio Conejo thx for your message bro. I hadn’t considered the difference in thickness of the disc rotors compared to my Hope rotors ( which I’m not sure how thick the hopes are ) usually the extra thickness resists heating up as quick but I found the Magura rotors overhead very quickly.
@@SteveGouldChewy Hello Steve. Thanks for your feedback. I have installed both brakes, front and rear with Maguras 203mm brake disc's. I've read owners manual and could not find any instruction about how to use or how the BAT knob works, the one located at the pivot point of the lever itself. Or maybe I'm confused and could only adjust lever reach.😂By the way, I'm using HC levers. Is this only for HC3 levers?
Not on the trail. A very tiny bit if on the bike stand and I spin the wheel and grab the brake. The MDR-P floating rotors have some ‘float’ that can make a bit of noise.
I'm struggling on choosing the mt7 and the shimano saint.I'm concerned of the durability of the master cylinder, especially in cold weather. I've had mt5's and the levers have both leaked sooner or later. But I already have a load of magura spares like brake pads and the hc3 levers and woudn't like them to go to waste so it makes the decision more difficult. Which one would you recommend to me?
Antti Haring 🤔 I would still probably go with the MT7 brakes although the Shimano is a close second. I’ve always found a good bleed on the Magura brakes every 6 months is the ticket for long term reliability although you could always be unlucky as it seems with both of us. Shimano is also prone to occasional bad luck but generally prove a good go to brake.
@@SteveGouldChewy how are you going with the MT7, are you still finding you have to bleed them every 6 months and is this typical for all MT7 riders? Would you recommend different brakes for a eMTB for trail / enduro ? thanks
axiomic yep, still my favourite. I’ve got a few sets on various bikes and a ton of my buddies have them. Bleed them every 6-12 months depending on how much use they have. My DJ bike hasn’t been bled since new and that’s three years old.
My mt4 came well good and in 2 weeks needed to be bleed, did it twice neither times worked. Then flipped lever straight up oil seemed to go in lever while i pushed it down on the bars IT WORKED for two minutes ): they are so inconsistant and i can't tell you how many times i flipped in up and down not ruining it. I have tried to get hold of magura but they won't answer I only use them for wheelies but i ride every day. And i can't even ride now. Shall i change to my shimano lever?
wheelie_peter I would try taking it to a bike shop that has a good mechanic ( one who has bled a few Maguras ). Like I said, these are tricky to bleed and the video from Magura that shows you how to bleed the brakes is a bag of shite.
hey been looking at ordering some mt5 hc brakes for while now and I will definitely keep them installed on looser side so they can spin. But that is bummer they broke even doing so. I have been wanting to buy but keep hearing about them breaking after one small crash. I am putting this on my remedy I have raked out and built for mostly bike park riding. I dont want a day ruined at bike park due to these brakes lever mech breaking. I know you say buy them at the end still but cant help but think if i should spend more and get shimano XT or maybe spend more for Hopes. I want modulation which why i was looking at these compared to shimano. I see people put shimano lever setup with these calipers maybe i wil do that but dont want to miss out on ride cause crash that ruins brakes so easily
just left my bike to a shop to get these fitted, I've been wanting to try them out for years. how would you describe lever feel? closer to a shimano or a sram?
Markus Knittl yep! I actually used Hope before Magura. Nothing wrong with the Hope brakes but the Maguras just seem to do everything slightly better. A bit more feel, a bit more power, a bit lighter etc.
I had the magura mt5. It was a pretty goof brake. But in a crash the stopers from the piston broke and the piston lost the fluid and then i didn hava brake.
is it hard or easy to push the lever compare to sram code r?on long dh rides i need to use lot of power to brake on my ones,looking for some easy lever push and great power:)
radovanS depends on the lever length and rotor size. If you want power with less input go the bigger rotor and longer lever. There is also a leverage adjustment on the HC3 lever but still not as powerful as the long lever blade.
Carlos Contactos hey bro! I have not tried those but, in theory, any rotor should be compatible with these callipers though some ‘fiddling’ may be needed. I found the the Shimano Saint brake mount posts are a good option as they avoid the running some floating discs have. You can also shim the calliper up and down with small flat washers/shims if needed to fine tune your fitment. Ride On.
I have had evil circle of leaking Shimano brakes, so I am done with shimano, Currently on TRP Spyke dual piston calipers. I too run Hope floating rotors.
@@0dienbeat902 what bleeding kit or brake? It on where you buy it, if shop has good prices adjusted to the market or keep crazy prices. And if yuou have to pay import tax and shipping on top of that. You can check the prices yourself no need to ask. I don't remember the price, and I don't know where you are and how the prices are and how muhh the products are taxes where you are. So it's not something I can answer for you spesifically but for the lowest price check all online retailers in your country. Also the Mt7 come sin different versions some come with a different lever which costs more, That lever can be adjusted more. So that will cost more. Hope this helps.
So far Magura and Trickstuff år ethe brakes i have heard mos tpositive things about, a dude a Trickstuff brake for 3 yars without issues, I have yet to have a hydraulic brake that last thst long.
@@SteveGouldChewy I don't care how they look, as long as they perform, also dealing with bike shops thst deal with Shimano and whole process takes weeks, I need something reliable, that I can work on myself fix quickly.
the thing with the crash you mentioned, is concerning, I want to get hand guards, but I will stick with mechanical brakes for a while. I will try to avoid everything that can make people temporarily insane, so no more shimano brakes, or leaky brakes, flawed, horrible frame, if I were to try other brakes I will keep my mechanical brakes, good I did cus most of the shimano brakes leaked and I had 4 sets. new bike is in the plans, I need reliability, but I don't think Magura is for me, but what they did with the adjustment seems like a good idea.
You are way out of this league, man! What? Mechanical brakes? Have you stold your bike from your grandma? Or you live on completely flat surface area and ride like grandma, cause otherwise, there's no way Mechanical brakes would work in any kind of acceptable form. Try normal brakes like Shimano SLX or higher tier ones, Magura mt5 or mt7, Sram code r or rsc, but not the cheapest ones and you'll be surprised to discover that all those "so much reliable" mechanical brakes are just a shitty crap which ain't braking at all and got no modulation at all.
@@DimitrosSJ You seem to believe in the misconceptions about mechanical brakes. But they Spyke sure are better than Deore, as the reach won't effect power, but cheaper Shimano brakes don't have this issue, cus no servo wave, and xt has freestroke adjustments. You clearly have not tried the brakes i have. Hardtail Party is going to test them too, so watch what he thinks, he recently got the Trp Spyke brakes in for review. He already tested Paul Clampers If adjusted properly they are powerful, and the semi metallic red pads bite weill, at least as well as Shimano metallic. But I will try hydraulic brakes. But not those. Keep in mind this is a safe bet for me to keep while trying other brakes, and I will. My brakes don't flex like crazy, it's not plastic, but I did a review on my website, yhey are not perfect., barrel adjuster at caliper is fragile, and can't be used on full suspension bike cus cable movement will destroy the threads and bend the threaded part. My review of Spyke csliper: wp.me/p60aTF-2rV TRP Spyke ML brake levers: wp.me/p60aTF-2t9 At the time of buying them I needed something more reliable and with mote power despise being adjusted to fit me, but later on I still could not use the previous shimnao. Rakes cus I use Archer d1xtrail yhe clamp on those brakes interfere, but the ne wones don't. But I won't get thos e rakes due to various reasons. But have others in mind like Formula, but Tricketuff are 18 months wait so can't, but formula i csnt find anywhere apart from on ebay from Italian distributor, but I am waiting for the newer model, that will have better leverage.
@@DimitrosSJ I can do stopped, come to a complete stop fast after the 50km/h so my brakes don't work you say? 😁No issues with modulation, I like grabby brakes with good bite, so pads need to be good, these Trp pads are impressive, they don't crack, like Shimano metallic does.
@@DimitrosSJ I've tried crappy mechanical brakes, but these let you adjust each piston, no need to move caliper in and only afjust one, those are absurd. Also plastic levers, or very strong return spring, these brkae shave a strong return spring so yes they will fatigue you faster, but I've ridden so much and been braking so much so when I returned to mechanical I did not get fatigued. But for kids these are not an good idea probably unless they are unusually strong. Hydraulics barely have any resistance. But don't go for Deore brakes for kids due to the reach effecting power, piston can't be pressed as far. So go with something like mt200 lever style or similar if you go for cheap brakes.
@@mtbboy1993 look, we are riding our bikes differently for sure and in different conditions, and bikes themselves, I'm pretty sure, are extremely different. The brakes you are taking about is suitable mostly for wallmart-quality bikes, which wouldn't last even a single weekend ride under me. Mt200 is total crap, a bit less crappy the Deore brakes are. The Minimum is the SLX brakes, enything simplier won't work for proper mtb bicycle.
@@SteveGouldChewy it's just on the big scale of things, 203 and 220. Real thick and durable( saw one in person and tested it with a mt7 with green conpound pads) try these 2 things out when u have the oportunity. Have fun and u got a new subscriber!
@@SteveGouldChewy and for the bleeding, u need to remove the caliper from the fork/frame and make sure that is perpendicular ( the hose ) with the ground , and the lever paralel with the ground also,and u are ready to go. On your video u said about the lever feel after the crash( inside the lever there is a fine rubber strip , if u get a lil bit to much shock intro the lever , that strip will snap ) I think that was the case with yours. Have fun and keep.up the good videos!!!
Pros: Powerful, Great Modulation Cons: Expensive, No repair kit, Disposable, cheap feel, gets loud and annoying, value not worth the price, fragile when you crash, laborious bleeding maintenance. Best for people: this is best for people who can burn money and look cool at the same time. Requires a lot of patience to bleed.
@@SteveGouldChewy they feel so spongy and somehow not direct enough for my taste... I switched my grips to Shimano saints, so I ride Shigura... Whole new level of breaking... Crisp and solid and not Plastik wobble rubbish... That's my opinion
@@SteveGouldChewy of course it depends on your preferences, but the Shimano levers are so crisp and feel way more "durable" and like better build quality, if that makes sense 😅 I can highly recommend giving it a try 💪
Appreciate the proper review, straight to the point!
Got the MT7+HC3+Performace Pads+Hope Floating Disc. Perfect combination and works like an anker.
Brommel1974 nice one bro!!
I just got the MT7 pro and some friend told me to strictly use Magura’s brake disc which are 2.0mm thick, instead of regular ones (1.8mm), as pistons may tend to get out of position. Have you heard this before?
@@tioconejo3138 if you fully wear your pads (to the metal) and wear out your rotors it would affect it, as long as you regularly replace what is necessary when it is necessary it shouldn't ever be a problem
Are the HC3 levers really worth the money? I was going to buy the MT7 Pros 45th anniversary in orange with the HC3s for $560 but I found someone on pinkbike selling the regular MT7s brand new with two rotors for $425 and I couldnt pass it up.
@@SourPatchPuss U can adjust Reach and pressure Point with the hc3. So U should have the answer already.
Is it just me or does the bite point knob not work?
Apparently it only works with the normal lever, there's a cam in the knob so it slightly moves the brake inwards with the normal hc1 lever, with the hc3 lever it sits in a different spot so it doesn't do anything
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 haha. Found all that out ages ago. Went with the hc3 levers on both my mt7s and my wife's mt5s, never looked back. I love Magura brakes. They're so much easier to get a perfect bleed on too. Never using any other brakes again. 😁
That’s a fairly good review video, straight to the point, no bull s... talk, some pros, and cons, and nice to hear as well as you try some different set up rather than brand box. Honestly I am planning to get mt5 or new model mt5 eStop and pair them with a shimano “sandwich” ice tech rotors with a 1 or maybe 2finger levers(as I’m ex trial rider and love bite point super sharp and modulation have in a tips of my fingers), don’t decided yet. All the best, shred hard and live long🤘
konar1616 thanks bro 🙏🏻 yeah there is certainly a few options for setup. The HC3 levers were designed with Danny McCaskil so they are pretty good out of the box with that crucial leverage adjustment. The Race ( sintered ) lads have a bit more bite than the organics the brakes come with which you might like.
Good stuff, thanks a bunch Steve!! I think you covered everything I needed to know. :-)
Great. Thx buddy. Enjoy.
back again to this video, you did nicely wit this too.
Thank you sir for the very informative review. Hoping to get 1 soon of magura mt7 brake. 🙂 God Bless
Gemar Bayarcal thx for your kind words 🤘🏻
Best review so far! Thanks!
Have you considered using Shimano levers with the MT7 calipers? I've heard great things about that setup but I haven't seen any videos about it.
The Duke of MTB hey bro, thx for chiming in. No I haven’t. I have sent the Shimano XTR levers mixed n matched with a few brakes but not the MT7. Interesting concept! I get hooked up with free Magura stuff so I try not to stray too far from their standard options ( they already hate I use Hope rotors and pop the Calliper dress rings out 🤣)
@@SteveGouldChewy Ah, ofcourse. You gotta do what you gotta do then. 👍😉
Hi @The Dukes of MTB you should watch one clip of Ali Clarkson, he put that shimono/magura setup in his street trial machine and explain a bit why. All best🤘
It would be the best of both worlds! But use xtr trail levers(9020 or 9120), yep expensive, but well worth it.
I'm riding such setup for 2 years now, without any bleeding, without wonderring bite point, but with exceptional power and my favourite Shimano brake lever feel.
I love my Mt7’s I haven’t had to bleed them at all. I work at a bike shop and have seen many other brakes that come through. The Mt7 with the carbon fiber composite master cylinder is very strong compared to other brands. They are one of my favorites.
Mt7 are indeed good brakes! But as a shimano guy, I've been riding XT brakes throughout. But after some little crash, I managed to brake those small plastic guide parts for servo-wave mechanism(what a silly shitt those constructors/desiners are to make xt brake lever in that way) and my xt lever became trash unfortunately. So I bought xtr 9120 levers, which are constructed like from another world and after a while bought some mt7 Pro Callipers.
And I am pretty much sure, that ShiGura brakes are the best out there in this particular reality! Xtr levers are a piece of technological art as well as mt7 callipers with those 4 pad per calliiper options. Absolutely best combo regarding power, modulation, feel, reliability.
Sounds like a good combo bro! 👊🏻
disagree. couldn't get the reach close enough to the bar, bled it couple of times. Didn't overfill it. Reach adjustment is dialed all the way in but breaking point is still too far away from the bar. Used Saint levers though. Switched back to mt7 levers for now...
well brake power however - holy moly, sometimes even felt unhealthy how strong that combo was.
@@Caaynee you might not belive me, but bled my brakes just once. It was when I installed them 2 years ago. That's it! No service at all, except of another brake pad set. And bite point is dead on all the time, though I do not set it on extremes, it is about the midle position, maybe a tiny bit closer.
Going to change brake fluid at the begining of the next sesson and will see how they perform after that.
@@DimitrosSJ What hose and connectors did you use?
Magura caliper side : ?
Shimano lever side : ?
:)
The rumor about the floating Magura rotors has been confirmed, already for sale, they market them as E bike rotors, already in online shop in Norway, think it came out 2 months ago.
How do ya only have 800 subs?! Deserve loads more. Great vid bro
Brandon Altbush thanks heaps bro 🤘🏻
great video mate
josh cassano thx bud. Trying to improve with each one. Appreciate your kind words. 🤘🏻
@@SteveGouldChewy your editing is on point and you speak very clearly to the camera, honestly I have seen many more youtubers with less editing skills and less charisma with more followers. its just a matter of more uploads now
josh cassano thx again Josh. My daughter starts school soon so I plan to get some more content up then. Ride On.
I've got Magura MT Trail brake set, these brakes are awesome and all, but the amount of lever travel before the actual braking is awkwardly big, i even can't activate them with the reach screw all the way out. Maybe they aren't bled properly, but I'm still happy. Nice video by the way!
Definitely sounds like a bleeding issue bro. I have those on my DJ bike and they are awesome. Ask around the bike shops, see if you can find a good mechanic. It will change your experience vastly. Ride On.
If you tried shimano's you wouldn't be saying this 😅
If bleeding won't help, try to switch to Shimano brake levers. Xtr(9020 or 9120) are the best out there in terms of reliability, functionality and weight. If you do so, you'll definately get that sharp on/off brake feel which you used to and still have plenty of modulation + insane power under your finger.
Oh, and NO for 2 finger handles! You need only one indexing finger for braking, even if you are in top 10 downhill racets.
liked and subbed. thanks for posting this. i appreciate the way you explained everything 🤜🤘✊
Thx bro🫠🤘🏻
i have MT5s . i weigh about 93 kilos and when on a steep downhill i always feel confident that i can stop with zero fade.
Hi Steve great video. Very informative! I recently chAnged to mt7 pros and I have had nothing but issues with noise! I ha E changed different pads, cleaned the rotors thoroughly, sanded the pads, and I can't win. I'm running the 203mm hc rotors. You mention they are pants in your video. Could the noise be due to the rotors themselves? Not sure what else I can do. I have not even ridden in the wet yet!
Thx buddy. 🤔 there is a bunch of factors that could be the source of your noise and it’s hard for me to diagnose without being present to hear it. If it’s a squeaky sound it could be contaminants ( stray oil mist, oily finger prints etc ) or a glazed disc / pads. You can try sanding the rotors and pads and try re-bedding them in ( wet the rotors with a water bottle with a hole in the lid and do a bunch of aggressive hard stops ) or the noise could be from the venting cut into the rotors ( my MDR-Ps are quite noisey but from normal operation )
Your best bet is to take it to a bike shop that has an experienced mechanic I reckon.
@@SteveGouldChewy Thanks for response. I have sanded, wet, tried different pads, you name it! i am thinking of trying shimano 203mm rotors to see if that will make a difference. you mention that you did use the hope rotors which are 1.8mm thick as opposed to the Storms which are 2.0mm thick. was this an issue at all for you?
There was some clearance issues with the hope rotors so maybe stick with Magura. What sort of noise is it making. It could be some inherent resonance that is just unlucky. I remember some of the World Cup Downhill riders using some type of vibration damping devices on their callipers at one stage but I’m pretty sure they were Shimano brakes.
@@Oxictars a bit late but for anyone having these issues (with any brake), try mtx ceramic brake pads. So quiet, powerful, and durable.
Very good video. No need for video, just voice.
I just got the MT7 pro and some friend told me to strictly use Magura’s brake disc which are 2.0mm thick, instead of regular ones (1.8mm), as pistons may tend to get out of position. Have you heard this before?
Tio Conejo thx for your message bro. I hadn’t considered the difference in thickness of the disc rotors compared to my Hope rotors ( which I’m not sure how thick the hopes are ) usually the extra thickness resists heating up as quick but I found the Magura rotors overhead very quickly.
@@SteveGouldChewy Hello Steve. Thanks for your feedback. I have installed both brakes, front and rear with Maguras 203mm brake disc's. I've read owners manual and could not find any instruction about how to use or how the BAT knob works, the one located at the pivot point of the lever itself. Or maybe I'm confused and could only adjust lever reach.😂By the way, I'm using HC levers. Is this only for HC3 levers?
@@tioconejo3138 the BAT adjuster only works with the normal levers, if you spin it all the way around it should slightly adjust the feel
Great video it make fun to watch
Herr Profis time thx so much bro 🤘🏻
@@SteveGouldChewy very nice video i came back to watch it again because i got mt7 too and they only make problems
Cheers bro. You had problems?
Did you ever get any pads slap or knocking noise when hard braking
Not on the trail. A very tiny bit if on the bike stand and I spin the wheel and grab the brake. The MDR-P floating rotors have some ‘float’ that can make a bit of noise.
@@SteveGouldChewy mine are new maybe it’s because they aren’t bedded in yet
I'm struggling on choosing the mt7 and the shimano saint.I'm concerned of the durability of the master cylinder, especially in cold weather. I've had mt5's and the levers have both leaked sooner or later. But I already have a load of magura spares like brake pads and the hc3 levers and woudn't like them to go to waste so it makes the decision more difficult. Which one would you recommend to me?
Antti Haring 🤔 I would still probably go with the MT7 brakes although the Shimano is a close second. I’ve always found a good bleed on the Magura brakes every 6 months is the ticket for long term reliability although you could always be unlucky as it seems with both of us. Shimano is also prone to occasional bad luck but generally prove a good go to brake.
@@SteveGouldChewy how are you going with the MT7, are you still finding you have to bleed them every 6 months and is this typical for all MT7 riders? Would you recommend different brakes for a eMTB for trail / enduro ? thanks
axiomic yep, still my favourite. I’ve got a few sets on various bikes and a ton of my buddies have them. Bleed them every 6-12 months depending on how much use they have. My DJ bike hasn’t been bled since new and that’s three years old.
Steve Gould awesome, thanks. I think I’ll get myself a pair :)
My mt4 came well good and in 2 weeks needed to be bleed, did it twice neither times worked. Then flipped lever straight up oil seemed to go in lever while i pushed it down on the bars IT WORKED for two minutes ): they are so inconsistant and i can't tell you how many times i flipped in up and down not ruining it. I have tried to get hold of magura but they won't answer
I only use them for wheelies but i ride every day. And i can't even ride now. Shall i change to my shimano lever?
wheelie_peter I would try taking it to a bike shop that has a good mechanic ( one who has bled a few Maguras ). Like I said, these are tricky to bleed and the video from Magura that shows you how to bleed the brakes is a bag of shite.
R those gripshifters..?
Yep, it’s a Zerode which has a gearbox and uses the grip style shifter.
Great video, thank you
Can you do a review of saint brakes
Thx bro but I don’t have a set at the moment and I’d need to spend quite a bit of time riding them to do a review. 👊🏻
Thanks for the tips😁 it was wery helpful
hey been looking at ordering some mt5 hc brakes for while now and I will definitely keep them installed on looser side so they can spin. But that is bummer they broke even doing so. I have been wanting to buy but keep hearing about them breaking after one small crash. I am putting this on my remedy I have raked out and built for mostly bike park riding. I dont want a day ruined at bike park due to these brakes lever mech breaking. I know you say buy them at the end still but cant help but think if i should spend more and get shimano XT or maybe spend more for Hopes. I want modulation which why i was looking at these compared to shimano. I see people put shimano lever setup with these calipers maybe i wil do that but dont want to miss out on ride cause crash that ruins brakes so easily
Yeah it’s a very specific situation that made my lever not work so you’d have to be unlucky for it to happen.
Hi! How does these compared to the shimano Saint in power and modulation, lever fell etc. Thanks man🔥
Thx buddy.
The power is very similar to Saint ( provided both brakes are set up correctly ) but the magura has more feel / modulation 👊🏻
Did you have to trim / file the caliper to fit the Hope Floating Rotors due to the rivets and clearance?
Rich Slaney no but it’s crazy close and a bit annoying to get adjusted.
just left my bike to a shop to get these fitted, I've been wanting to try them out for years.
how would you describe lever feel? closer to a shimano or a sram?
Marco Epifani nice one bro! I would say they have a feel of their own. If I had to label them it would be Shimano power with SRAM modulation.
Ride On.
@@SteveGouldChewy sounds like a dream brake! can't wait to try them out, ride on bro!
fun fact, I am in the same situation now, I am currently waiting on my bike to be fitted with these brakes
Have you tried the hope tech 3 V4 brake, how do they compare to the MT7?
Markus Knittl yep! I actually used Hope before Magura. Nothing wrong with the Hope brakes but the Maguras just seem to do everything slightly better. A bit more feel, a bit more power, a bit lighter etc.
is this good brake for riding on your front wheel? I want to master this skill and looking for upgrade of my current brakes.
Absolutely. They have great control. A lit of the DH racers and Trials riders use them.
I had the magura mt5. It was a pretty goof brake. But in a crash the stopers from the piston broke and the piston lost the fluid and then i didn hava brake.
Nick Anst yeah this is similar to the issue I had. Strangely no fluid leaked out of mine.....
is it hard or easy to push the lever compare to sram code r?on long dh rides i need to use lot of power to brake on my ones,looking for some easy lever push and great power:)
radovanS depends on the lever length and rotor size. If you want power with less input go the bigger rotor and longer lever. There is also a leverage adjustment on the HC3 lever but still not as powerful as the long lever blade.
Hello there. Great video. Wonder I can use Shimano XT 180mm brake rotors.
Carlos Contactos hey bro! I have not tried those but, in theory, any rotor should be compatible with these callipers though some ‘fiddling’ may be needed. I found the the Shimano Saint brake mount posts are a good option as they avoid the running some floating discs have. You can also shim the calliper up and down with small flat washers/shims if needed to fine tune your fitment.
Ride On.
I use xt rotor, it is slightly thicker then magura rotor, you may spend more time adjust it, once with adjust, it works fine
I have had evil circle of leaking Shimano brakes, so I am done with shimano, Currently on TRP Spyke dual piston calipers.
I too run Hope floating rotors.
I've got magura mt7 pro and I use MDR - P discs even in rain, including me and bike 120kg and they stop me no bother.
Magura has a nice video on bleeding, with that German dude, I can't remember the name of.
How much it costs?
@@0dienbeat902 what bleeding kit or brake? It on where you buy it, if shop has good prices adjusted to the market or keep crazy prices. And if yuou have to pay import tax and shipping on top of that. You can check the prices yourself no need to ask. I don't remember the price, and I don't know where you are and how the prices are and how muhh the products are taxes where you are. So it's not something I can answer for you spesifically but for the lowest price check all online retailers in your country. Also the Mt7 come sin different versions some come with a different lever which costs more, That lever can be adjusted more. So that will cost more. Hope this helps.
Jasper jauch?
@@user-zovbewi not him, but he has a factory visit, where he builds a brake lever.
dude is your accent South African?
I can't quite tell?
weedfreer I’m Australian buddy but I’ve lived outside of the country for half my life. 🤘🏻
@@SteveGouldChewy bonza!
figures as I couldnt place it as exactly South African...and my partner is ZA herself so...just a wee bit awks for me
weedfreer 🤣
Going SHAGURA 😎 MT7s 😎
Just give the bike a few bumps while pressing leavers during bleed then bleed again and good for me
So far Magura and Trickstuff år ethe brakes i have heard mos tpositive things about, a dude a Trickstuff brake for 3 yars without issues, I have yet to have a hydraulic brake that last thst long.
Johannes Nilsen yeah they do seem nice and get good reviews. I prefer the look of the Maguras personally but would love a set of Trickstuffs!
@@SteveGouldChewy I don't care how they look, as long as they perform, also dealing with bike shops thst deal with Shimano and whole process takes weeks, I need something reliable, that I can work on myself fix quickly.
I'm not sponge worthy :-[ Great review, thanks!
userbosco 🤣 Thanks buddy 🤘🏻
the thing with the crash you mentioned, is concerning, I want to get hand guards, but I will stick with mechanical brakes for a while.
I will try to avoid everything that can make people temporarily insane, so no more shimano brakes, or leaky brakes, flawed, horrible frame, if I were to try other brakes I will keep my mechanical brakes, good I did cus most of the shimano brakes leaked and I had 4 sets. new bike is in the plans, I need reliability, but I don't think Magura is for me, but what they did with the adjustment seems like a good idea.
You are way out of this league, man! What? Mechanical brakes? Have you stold your bike from your grandma? Or you live on completely flat surface area and ride like grandma, cause otherwise, there's no way Mechanical brakes would work in any kind of acceptable form.
Try normal brakes like Shimano SLX or higher tier ones, Magura mt5 or mt7, Sram code r or rsc, but not the cheapest ones and you'll be surprised to discover that all those "so much reliable" mechanical brakes are just a shitty crap which ain't braking at all and got no modulation at all.
@@DimitrosSJ You seem to believe in the misconceptions about mechanical brakes. But they Spyke sure are better than Deore, as the reach won't effect power, but cheaper Shimano brakes don't have this issue, cus no servo wave, and xt has freestroke adjustments. You clearly have not tried the brakes i have. Hardtail Party is going to test them too, so watch what he thinks, he recently got the Trp Spyke brakes in for review. He already tested Paul Clampers If adjusted properly they are powerful, and the semi metallic red pads bite weill, at least as well as Shimano metallic. But I will try hydraulic brakes. But not those.
Keep in mind this is a safe bet for me to keep while trying other brakes, and I will. My brakes don't flex like crazy, it's not plastic, but I did a review on my website, yhey are not perfect., barrel adjuster at caliper is fragile, and can't be used on full suspension bike cus cable movement will destroy the threads and bend the threaded part.
My review of Spyke csliper:
wp.me/p60aTF-2rV
TRP Spyke ML brake levers: wp.me/p60aTF-2t9
At the time of buying them I needed something more reliable and with mote power despise being adjusted to fit me, but later on I still could not use the previous shimnao. Rakes cus I use Archer d1xtrail yhe clamp on those brakes interfere, but the ne wones don't. But I won't get thos e rakes due to various reasons. But have others in mind like Formula, but Tricketuff are 18 months wait so can't, but formula i csnt find anywhere apart from on ebay from Italian distributor, but I am waiting for the newer model, that will have better leverage.
@@DimitrosSJ I can do stopped, come to a complete stop fast after the 50km/h so my brakes don't work you say? 😁No issues with modulation, I like grabby brakes with good bite, so pads need to be good, these Trp pads are impressive, they don't crack, like Shimano metallic does.
@@DimitrosSJ I've tried crappy mechanical brakes, but these let you adjust each piston, no need to move caliper in and only afjust one, those are absurd. Also plastic levers, or very strong return spring, these brkae shave a strong return spring so yes they will fatigue you faster, but I've ridden so much and been braking so much so when I returned to mechanical I did not get fatigued. But for kids these are not an good idea probably unless they are unusually strong. Hydraulics barely have any resistance. But don't go for Deore brakes for kids due to the reach effecting power, piston can't be pressed as far. So go with something like mt200 lever style or similar if you go for cheap brakes.
@@mtbboy1993 look, we are riding our bikes differently for sure and in different conditions, and bikes themselves, I'm pretty sure, are extremely different. The brakes you are taking about is suitable mostly for wallmart-quality bikes, which wouldn't last even a single weekend ride under me. Mt200 is total crap, a bit less crappy the Deore brakes are.
The Minimum is the SLX brakes, enything simplier won't work for proper mtb bicycle.
there is a new rotor now floating HDR
Raphael Cruise yes and it’s pretty good too!!!
Is here the floating rotot
vlad andrei yes!!! Looks good too. Need to get some to try 🤘🏻
@@SteveGouldChewy it's just on the big scale of things, 203 and 220. Real thick and durable( saw one in person and tested it with a mt7 with green conpound pads) try these 2 things out when u have the oportunity. Have fun and u got a new subscriber!
@@SteveGouldChewy and for the bleeding, u need to remove the caliper from the fork/frame and make sure that is perpendicular ( the hose ) with the ground , and the lever paralel with the ground also,and u are ready to go. On your video u said about the lever feel after the crash( inside the lever there is a fine rubber strip , if u get a lil bit to much shock intro the lever , that strip will snap ) I think that was the case with yours. Have fun and keep.up the good videos!!!
Thx bro! Yewwww
Pros: Powerful, Great Modulation
Cons: Expensive, No repair kit, Disposable, cheap feel, gets loud and annoying, value not worth the price, fragile when you crash, laborious bleeding maintenance.
Best for people: this is best for people who can burn money and look cool at the same time. Requires a lot of patience to bleed.
Why are magura's break lever so sh*tty?!?
They have a few options for levers now. You dont like any of them? I use the HC3 for the adjustments but I think I prefer the carbon blade lever.
@@SteveGouldChewy they feel so spongy and somehow not direct enough for my taste... I switched my grips to Shimano saints, so I ride Shigura... Whole new level of breaking... Crisp and solid and not Plastik wobble rubbish... That's my opinion
Mex interesting bro. Ive heard good things about the Shigura conversion. Might have to rig up a set 🤘🏻
@@SteveGouldChewy of course it depends on your preferences, but the Shimano levers are so crisp and feel way more "durable" and like better build quality, if that makes sense 😅 I can highly recommend giving it a try 💪
no way...there is now a second person I know of with a nickname of Chewie!
that's slightly random ☺️