Shout out for pointing out the importance of bedding in brakes. So important to get the most performance and life out of brake pads…on ANY vehicle…bicycles, motorcycles, cars, etc… Great call. As always great job
i am a true fan of the MT7 for years now and have no plans to "downgrade" any time soon..the only thing you need to swap or the levers and the best levers or the HC3..no issues for years now..even dirty style bleed works, you just have to know how oil displacement works...
Great video Sam, and completely agree. I put these on my Levo too. However, the best tip i can give for SRAM Code brakes also applies to Magura: when you have the bleed syringe full of new fluid, clamp off the hose and PULL on the syringe to give a vacuum. You'll see the fluid fizz and bubbles will separate. Repeat until you get no more bubbles. Now squirt the air out of the syringe and attach to the caliper and bleed normally. This will give you much less compressibility in the system and gives a much firmer lever feel and far better bleed than the Magura MT7s give you out of the box.
I have a few emtbs. Two with Shimano, one with Sram and my new Intense Tazer MX Pro that has the MT7's. Hands down, no contest, the MT7s are head and shoulders above the rest. They'll all stop you, but the MT7s just give you 100% confidence the way they brake and slow you down. Totally different and better feel than anything else I've ever ridden.
I went from Code RSCs to MT7s with 223 front & 203 rear, massive improvement, love them. Also upgrade to the HC3 levers even more modulation feel & control. Yes bleeding can be tricky, but once you know how, it's no problem. Really stop/control you down step gnarly stuff. Would not go for anything else.
Heck yes. I have Mt7 on my regular bike. And believe it or not I have the Mt sport which is basically the MT5 caliper and the lever is also the same at a much lower price. And they work just as well as the Mt7 only big difference is the lever adjustment. But yes Magura modulation is awesome. And your right the Mt 7 has more modulation. And on my ebike I am running the Magura ebike floating rotors. Great video.👍
I was a massive fan of them too and put them on my 2020 Kenevo. Initially I was blown away by their performance coupled with the 220mm MDR-P rotors. Then the rear brake failed totally when I was in a bike park. Turned out it was a duff lever. Then it failed again with another duff lever and finally the caliper failed on the 3rd replacement set. So for me I had to ditch them as I couldn’t trust them not failing again. So I went back to Hope E4’s with the Magura rotors. Absolutely no issues whatsoever and they are brilliant.
Sounds like you needed a proper informed mechanic. Possibly there was "over-filling" going on b/c that is why one will leak. Not using the proper bleed block or attempting to alter the amount of lever travel with extra fluid. Then when trying to spread the pads enough to clear rubbing snaps the reservoirs top cap securing tabs unknowingly and when heat builds causes fluid to escape the compromised top cap.
@@judemonica7951 the bike was serviced by the LBS and both times it was confirmed by Magura it was manufacturing faults. Mechanics not at fault. Like Sam says the quality of the Magura is actually not that good. A lot of cheap plastic for a premium product. The Hope is 100% aluminium and much more robust and have not even been bled just put new pads in.
@@CoyoteMTB77 Thanks for your reply and feedback. I wonder what kind of bike frame material you are riding, also the handlebars, cranks etc....any of it "carbon fiber????" Well guess what, that material isn't 100% aluminum either is it? Probably "a lot of cheap plastic" just like Boeing uses on their passenger airline airframes.. I don't believe I read nor heard Sam say anything about "the quality of Magura is actually not that good."
Just put the MT-7 & Storm Rotors on my 22 Levo Expert and so far, love it. I was hoping to use TRP 2.3 Rotors buy my LBS voted against it due to the lack of clearance. As for 220s' on the front. Well, there are now people saying the correct way is to have the larger rotor on the back because that is where you want to have maximum heat dissipation and modulation and you get that with a larger rotor because on the downhills, one tends to use the rear brakes more, dragging it all the way down and the fronts are used mainly for quick stops and heat does not have the duration to build up. Who knows... I just went with the 203's front & back.
IMHO Code RSC are pretty darn good. I had Magura MT7 on my loaner Haibike and they had excellent power and good modulation. I did not have problems with bleeding, that have heard about Maguras occasionally having. I agree that they are amongst the very best.
Yea maybe I should keep trying Codes maybe one day I will like them’ my new bike has xt brakes yes you heard right new bike this sunday! I almost died on the first ride zero modulation!
Amazing timing, just as my new E-Bike with MT7 brakes arrived yesterday 👍 Looking forward to my first 4 piston brakes 👌 Lets hope the grinding from too little spacing between the (new) pads and the rotor goes away during the bedding in process and the HC 1-finger levers that I bought feel more comfortable than the chunky 2-finger OEM levers 💡
I had the magura mt7 with HC3 levers on my bikes but that rubbing noise was on the rotors was so annoying, so I switched to TRP DHR EVO and difference was night and day, so much stronger and no rubbing on them rotors plus it’s easier to bleed
I've told you before Sam you are a mind reader, it was tyres last time. I'm just waiting for my MT7's to arrive, my other bikes have XT's, so on the Kenevo SL, I thought I would replace the Code RS's with them. My friend has them on his Levo and swears by them, so glad you confirm everything I hear.
So I like a lot of modulation in the lever. Codes with good pads are my current favorite. All my m merida's have XT or SLX. The power is great but I find they lack the control I feel with codes. I have had RSC's on order since July last year and they keep getting put back so I have bought a set of MT7's for the Pole build. Not tried them but your thoughts sound positive. Hope I like them as much as you Sam.
I have the MT7s on my Salsa Timberjack hardtail and they are great brakes,but on my Intense Tazer ebike and Ibis Ripmo AF I have the Hayes Dominion A4s. The Hayes are the best brakes on the market for any bike!
Looking at MT7 upgrade for my Levo Expert (latest Gen) instead of Code RS staying with 203 rotors front and rear probably the Magura MDR-P rotors. Do you need Magura brake adapters, looks like the QM 44 & QM 45 for the Levo?
Hey Scott they should just plug and play with the original adapter but I’m not a expert that! I always say ask the Facebook emtb page people know there !
Hi Sam, I have a turbo levo carbon comp 2022, looking at upgrading brakes to the MT7s as you have, I am 104kgs so think the 220mm rotor on front. Questions, will I need an adaptor and do I need a Magura rotor on rear?
Compare to the MT7. What do you think about the MT5 eStop? As it's optimised for the eBike. I am planning to upgrade my brakes on my Trek fuel Exe, but not sure I should go with the MT7 or MT5 eStop. Thanks
I guess this video was posted before the "E" series brakes were available (Such as MT7e). I am likely to install some MT5e brakes on my eBike too (Zeegr S1 full suspension, dual 1Kw motors). I will be going with 203mm disk on the front, and 180mm on the rear (the front wheel has more braking power than the rear on most bikes). The bike came with the functional (but lackluster) DYIsland brakes with 160mm disks front and rear. I cannot imagine why anyone would install brakes without the eBike switch on an eBike these days. The Zeegr has cruise control, and it is disengaged by lightly tapping the brakes.
Magura are just as easy to fit and setup as anything else. Quicker and easier to bleed than sram. More consistent power and consistent modulation than shimano. In the last few years I went from code r, to xt m8120, then hope e4, then mt7. I prefer the mt7 although don’t like the stock levers on the cheaper magura.
Sam, how would you recommend bleeding the MT7 when the hoses are internally routed as you can’t really take the calliper off and up to the brake lever.
Hello Avet if someone can help me. I have the Magura Mt5 and very happy, my question is if the Mt7 are much better or is it just the weight and the lever? a greeting
Ive never tried magura, i use shimano xtr which are great, was curious if youve used Hope Tech 3 E4 brakes and if so your thoughts compared to the magura or shimano ?
It was either the MT7 or trp dhr evo. I went with the TRPs don’t know if you have tried them they are amazing in my view. Loam wolf does a good review if you are interested.
Hi Sam. Great timing as I've been looking at changing my Levo brakes to the MT7 or XT. I've never been impressed with the SRAM stock brakes. I've always been a Shimano fan but like the reviews on the MT7. I can get good deals on both but I see the Magura recommend a thicker rotor. Obviously this would be the best way but is it necessary? Cheers love the channel.
Mt7 calipers with xtr 9020 or 9120 levers - it's the best possible combo. If it hapoened you would want more power or modulation only TrickStuff brakes will be better but the price is very high.
My new bike came with Mt5s . they are powerful enough for my use but there is one odd thing that occurs when i first start on a ride , which is down a steep street to get to the trails . There is a very pronounced chatter as if the rotors were bent or like in a car that has anti skid brakes . It generally,only occurs in the first few minutes of a ride . very strange .
Yes, a pain to bleed, and the rear is so finicky on spacing , very tight, even after full pad reset. I'm running the MT7's 203 front and rear on my KTM Prowler . MDRP 203 rotors. 3 position Magura HC3 levers. If the bleed was easier and lasted longer id be 100%. but the rear is a PAIN!! I have watched EVERY Magura bleed video and use their Royal blood and full bleed kit, still hard to get perfect. The pad reset is so close to the rotor that finding the perfect position for no rub is really hard on the rear rotor, but not bad on the front. I have just purchased the Magura connected brake pads that are one piece instead of 2 on each side, haven't tried them yet. has anyone else had luck with these pads?
The one piece pads are harder to set up compared to the 2 piece pads. With the 2 piece, the spacing after reset can have a bit of wiggle room. On the 1 piece the setting of one set will impact the other.
You could also benefit from facing the frame's mounting tabs! Not only would you notice an immediate feel difference but every time you re-install fresh pads, the feel and performance is ready within a fraction of time it took prior. ...and now dragging pads are not an issue all of the sudden.
I could not even imagine your emotions if you install xtr 9120 brake levers, converting your Magura into Shigura brakes. Much much better combo than original Magura levers.
@@SamsBikes I hope you did try the xtr ones, cause earlier I thought there's not so much difference betwin XT and XTR ones, except of couple grams and about 120$ in price. But, gosh, I was so wrong about it! XTR design and construction is way stronger and more reliable, also modulation is not on pair with XT, considerably better. And I mean exact 9020 or 9120 models, which are trail/gravity oriented ones. They got bigger working cylinder volume in comparasion with 9000 or 9100 series and it helps a lot with big volume 4 pot brakes like mt7. Less free stroke, more sensitive, nicer modulation and loads of power!
My guess is 1 of 2 things. Adaptor is incorrect or not seated properly. More likely is that the rotor is the issue. It might be slightly out of round from impact, shipping or heat, or it could be an issue at the connection points on the hub. If it is just very light rub, you could just shim the pads during bleed and setup or wait for the pads to wear a bit. If it is heavy enough to effect performance, either true or replace the rotor (hopefully they can still be exchanged for free).
@@SamsBikes Certainly if you can't get a set to buy. Maybe it supply is better in other parts of the world, but they have been near to vapor ware in the US for years now.
J ai récemment acheter un Norco Range Vlt C2, équiper de sram code r, je pèse lourd (100kg) et le vélo avec l équipement aussi (30kg avec batterie de 900wh) le freinage en lui même est satisfaisant mais pour obtenir un bon freinage à basse vitesse dans des descentes raide et cassante ils fait les tirer au maximum vers le guidon et lorsque les descentes sont longues les mains finissent par être douloureuse ! Es ce que des Mt7 pro on une force équivalente ou supérieure sans écraser les leviers et avoir des crampes au mains 🙌 …..
What’s your beef hahah? They are incredibly powerful, consistent and great modulation. Basically all you want. I own MT7 HC3 203 F&R set up. I had Shimano XT 8020 4piston 200mm F&R. Both 4 piston both 200+mm rotors. No comparison. MT7 so consistently powerful. My Shimanos would have a wandering bite point after long descents. MT7 remain incredibly consistent. I had some problems with front brake but due to not properly bedding in initially. Once I got them right. Sheeeesssshh.
Shout out for pointing out the importance of bedding in brakes. So important to get the most performance and life out of brake pads…on ANY vehicle…bicycles, motorcycles, cars, etc…
Great call.
As always great job
Thanks mate it’s really surprise me how many people don’t know this! Even my mates who ride bloody well and know there way around tools ⚒️!
i am a true fan of the MT7 for years now and have no plans to "downgrade" any time soon..the only thing you need to swap or the levers and the best levers or the HC3..no issues for years now..even dirty style bleed works, you just have to know how oil displacement works...
Glad to hear mate, yes 💯 mt7 rockn
Great video Sam, and completely agree. I put these on my Levo too.
However, the best tip i can give for SRAM Code brakes also applies to Magura: when you have the bleed syringe full of new fluid, clamp off the hose and PULL on the syringe to give a vacuum. You'll see the fluid fizz and bubbles will separate. Repeat until you get no more bubbles. Now squirt the air out of the syringe and attach to the caliper and bleed normally.
This will give you much less compressibility in the system and gives a much firmer lever feel and far better bleed than the Magura MT7s give you out of the box.
I have a few emtbs. Two with Shimano, one with Sram and my new Intense Tazer MX Pro that has the MT7's. Hands down, no contest, the MT7s are head and shoulders above the rest. They'll all stop you, but the MT7s just give you 100% confidence the way they brake and slow you down. Totally different and better feel than anything else I've ever ridden.
Totally Mike I agree ☝️ mt7 for the win
100%
I went from Code RSCs to MT7s with 223 front & 203 rear, massive improvement, love them. Also upgrade to the HC3 levers even more modulation feel & control. Yes bleeding can be tricky, but once you know how, it's no problem. Really stop/control you down step gnarly stuff. Would not go for anything else.
Totally Gerry glad your loving them they are definitely my go to!
Heck yes. I have Mt7 on my regular bike. And believe it or not I have the Mt sport which is basically the MT5 caliper and the lever is also the same at a much lower price. And they work just as well as the Mt7 only big difference is the lever adjustment. But yes Magura modulation is awesome. And your right the Mt 7 has more modulation. And on my ebike I am running the Magura ebike floating rotors. Great video.👍
Thanks Mate I’m glad you agree with me on the more Modulation with the mt7 I really just go in feel and I just love both but the mt7 are amazing
I was a massive fan of them too and put them on my 2020 Kenevo. Initially I was blown away by their performance coupled with the 220mm MDR-P rotors. Then the rear brake failed totally when I was in a bike park. Turned out it was a duff lever. Then it failed again with another duff lever and finally the caliper failed on the 3rd replacement set. So for me I had to ditch them as I couldn’t trust them not failing again. So I went back to Hope E4’s with the Magura rotors. Absolutely no issues whatsoever and they are brilliant.
I also have this on my Kenevo Expert, the rear MT7 brake failed.
Sounds like you needed a proper informed mechanic. Possibly there was "over-filling" going on b/c that is why one will leak. Not using the proper bleed block or attempting to alter the amount of lever travel with extra fluid. Then when trying to spread the pads enough to clear rubbing snaps the reservoirs top cap securing tabs unknowingly and when heat builds causes fluid to escape the compromised top cap.
..and I am interested in how the rear caliper failed or what is meant by "failed" specifically?
@@judemonica7951 the bike was serviced by the LBS and both times it was confirmed by Magura it was manufacturing faults. Mechanics not at fault. Like Sam says the quality of the Magura is actually not that good. A lot of cheap plastic for a premium product. The Hope is 100% aluminium and much more robust and have not even been bled just put new pads in.
@@CoyoteMTB77 Thanks for your reply and feedback. I wonder what kind of bike frame material you are riding, also the handlebars, cranks etc....any of it "carbon fiber????" Well guess what, that material isn't 100% aluminum either is it? Probably "a lot of cheap plastic" just like Boeing uses on their passenger airline airframes.. I don't believe I read nor heard Sam say anything about "the quality of Magura is actually not that good."
Just put the MT-7 & Storm Rotors on my 22 Levo Expert and so far, love it. I was hoping to use TRP 2.3 Rotors buy my LBS voted against it due to the lack of clearance. As for 220s' on the front. Well, there are now people saying the correct way is to have the larger rotor on the back because that is where you want to have maximum heat dissipation and modulation and you get that with a larger rotor because on the downhills, one tends to use the rear brakes more, dragging it all the way down and the fronts are used mainly for quick stops and heat does not have the duration to build up. Who knows... I just went with the 203's front & back.
Nice one bro! Check my dream levo Build next week might be interesting for you!
@@SamsBikes Awesome, will do. Love your videos!
IMHO Code RSC are pretty darn good.
I had Magura MT7 on my loaner Haibike and they had excellent power and good modulation. I did not have problems with bleeding, that have heard about Maguras occasionally having. I agree that they are amongst the very best.
Yea maybe I should keep trying Codes maybe one day I will like them’ my new bike has xt brakes yes you heard right new bike this sunday! I almost died on the first ride zero modulation!
Amazing timing, just as my new E-Bike with MT7 brakes arrived yesterday 👍 Looking forward to my first 4 piston brakes 👌
Lets hope the grinding from too little spacing between the (new) pads and the rotor goes away during the bedding in process and the HC 1-finger levers that I bought feel more comfortable than the chunky 2-finger OEM levers 💡
Dude I’m sure they will just make sure you bed in your pads right!
Excellent review mate thanks for the footage my friend 😊❤️👌🇬🇧
Thanks 🙏 rider
I had the magura mt7 with HC3 levers on my bikes but that rubbing noise was on the rotors was so annoying, so I switched to TRP DHR EVO and difference was night and day, so much stronger and no rubbing on them rotors plus it’s easier to bleed
Sweet I’ll need to try TRP brakes they sound amazing!
I've told you before Sam you are a mind reader, it was tyres last time. I'm just waiting for my MT7's to arrive, my other bikes have XT's, so on the Kenevo SL, I thought I would replace the Code RS's with them. My friend has them on his Levo and swears by them, so glad you confirm everything I hear.
Dude MT7 totally rock mate you will love them
Gone upgrade in my levo expert to MAGURA MT7. whitish rotors are the thing to get. The MDR P ore the MDR C? Was thinking going 220.
I use Magura Storm HC 6-hole brake rotor for me the best
Got them on my 2019 Decoy. A huge reason why I bought the bike (bought it used and upgraded). Damn good brakes.
Yep very good brakes
So I like a lot of modulation in the lever. Codes with good pads are my current favorite. All my m
merida's have XT or SLX. The power is great but I find they lack the control I feel with codes. I have had RSC's on order since July last year and they keep getting put back so I have bought a set of MT7's for the Pole build. Not tried them but your thoughts sound positive. Hope I like them as much as you Sam.
Phil I think you will love them mate
I have the MT7s on my Salsa Timberjack hardtail and they are great brakes,but on my Intense Tazer ebike and Ibis Ripmo AF I have the Hayes Dominion A4s. The Hayes are the best brakes on the market for any bike!
That’s very interesting Kelly because I’m about to put the Hayes in my Levo super excited to see how they are
@@SamsBikes I’m interested in your review! Keep us posted?
Looking at MT7 upgrade for my Levo Expert (latest Gen) instead of Code RS staying with 203 rotors front and rear probably the Magura MDR-P rotors. Do you need Magura brake adapters, looks like the QM 44 & QM 45 for the Levo?
Hey Scott they should just plug and play with the original adapter but I’m not a expert that! I always say ask the Facebook emtb page people know there !
Yep, 203mm front & Back! Nice vid... also, great brakes!
Thanks mate
Hi Sam, I have a turbo levo carbon comp 2022, looking at upgrading brakes to the MT7s as you have, I am 104kgs so think the 220mm rotor on front. Questions, will I need an adaptor and do I need a Magura rotor on rear?
Compare to the MT7. What do you think about the MT5 eStop? As it's optimised for the eBike. I am planning to upgrade my brakes on my Trek fuel Exe, but not sure I should go with the MT7 or MT5 eStop. Thanks
I guess this video was posted before the "E" series brakes were available (Such as MT7e). I am likely to install some MT5e brakes on my eBike too (Zeegr S1 full suspension, dual 1Kw motors). I will be going with 203mm disk on the front, and 180mm on the rear (the front wheel has more braking power than the rear on most bikes). The bike came with the functional (but lackluster) DYIsland brakes with 160mm disks front and rear.
I cannot imagine why anyone would install brakes without the eBike switch on an eBike these days. The Zeegr has cruise control, and it is disengaged by lightly tapping the brakes.
Nice comprehensive review Sam
Thanks mate
Whats another great brake that's easier to set up ? I want to upgrade brakes on my Turbo Levo Alloy .
Magura are just as easy to fit and setup as anything else. Quicker and easier to bleed than sram. More consistent power and consistent modulation than shimano. In the last few years I went from code r, to xt m8120, then hope e4, then mt7. I prefer the mt7 although don’t like the stock levers on the cheaper magura.
Have rhe MT7s on a Devinci eTroy. They're brilliant.
How about the TRP DHR-Evo’s?
Sam, how would you recommend bleeding the MT7 when the hoses are internally routed as you can’t really take the calliper off and up to the brake lever.
You just need to take out the bolts of the caliper and move it around as you push the oil through it!
Thanks Sam
Hello
Avet if someone can help me.
I have the Magura Mt5 and very happy, my question is if the Mt7 are much better or is it just the weight and the lever?
a greeting
Hey mate to be honest the mt5 are great loads of power but mt7 have more modulation
Ive never tried magura, i use shimano xtr which are great, was curious if youve used Hope Tech 3 E4 brakes and if so your thoughts compared to the magura or shimano ?
It was either the MT7 or trp dhr evo. I went with the TRPs don’t know if you have tried them they are amazing in my view. Loam wolf does a good review if you are interested.
Definitely interested in them for sure!
If for some reason you couldn't get magura, maybe try out trp evo. People described them the same way you do the m7's.
Wow 😯 maybe the next build
Hi Sam. Great timing as I've been looking at changing my Levo brakes to the MT7 or XT. I've never been impressed with the SRAM stock brakes. I've always been a Shimano fan but like the reviews on the MT7. I can get good deals on both but I see the Magura recommend a thicker rotor. Obviously this would be the best way but is it necessary? Cheers love the channel.
Thanks Carl I would go the Mt7s and yes for the perfect stop go with their rotors as well! Yes you can use others but it’s not going to be perfect
Mt7 calipers with xtr 9020 or 9120 levers - it's the best possible combo. If it hapoened you would want more power or modulation only TrickStuff brakes will be better but the price is very high.
which magura pads you prefere? Race or performance?
Race all the way mate
GREAT BIKE BEAUTIFUL BRAKES
My new bike came with Mt5s . they are powerful enough for my use but there is one odd thing that occurs when i first start on a ride , which is down a steep street to get to the trails . There is a very pronounced chatter as if the rotors were bent or like in a car that has anti skid brakes . It generally,only occurs in the first few minutes of a ride . very strange .
Hey mate I actually had that as well on my mt5 I had a faulty disk and changed it over and it worked fine!
"Faulty " meaning ?
Mine doesn't appear to be out of round because when i spin the wheel , there is no rubbing . was that your problem or ?
Which are the diff mt7 pro vs racelines?
Nothing just colour
Yes, a pain to bleed, and the rear is so finicky on spacing , very tight, even after full pad reset. I'm running the MT7's 203 front and rear on my KTM Prowler . MDRP 203 rotors. 3 position Magura HC3 levers. If the bleed was easier and lasted longer id be 100%. but the rear is a PAIN!! I have watched EVERY Magura bleed video and use their Royal blood and full bleed kit, still hard to get perfect. The pad reset is so close to the rotor that finding the perfect position for no rub is really hard on the rear rotor, but not bad on the front. I have just purchased the Magura connected brake pads that are one piece instead of 2 on each side, haven't tried them yet. has anyone else had luck with these pads?
Hey Patrick you really need to take off your caliper and move it around while bleeding it. I saw the specialized mechanic do it perfect
@@SamsBikes copy that , will give that a shot! Thanks
The one piece pads are harder to set up compared to the 2 piece pads. With the 2 piece, the spacing after reset can have a bit of wiggle room. On the 1 piece the setting of one set will impact the other.
You could also benefit from facing the frame's mounting tabs! Not only would you notice an immediate feel difference but every time you re-install fresh pads, the feel and performance is ready within a fraction of time it took prior. ...and now dragging pads are not an issue all of the sudden.
I could not even imagine your emotions if you install xtr 9120 brake levers, converting your Magura into Shigura brakes.
Much much better combo than original Magura levers.
mate I tried them I wasn't a fan but I'm super picky on my brakes.
@@SamsBikes I hope you did try the xtr ones, cause earlier I thought there's not so much difference betwin XT and XTR ones, except of couple grams and about 120$ in price. But, gosh, I was so wrong about it! XTR design and construction is way stronger and more reliable, also modulation is not on pair with XT, considerably better. And I mean exact 9020 or 9120 models, which are trail/gravity oriented ones. They got bigger working cylinder volume in comparasion with 9000 or 9100 series and it helps a lot with big volume 4 pot brakes like mt7. Less free stroke, more sensitive, nicer modulation and loads of power!
well I can not setup my mt7 pro fron 220mm with out rubbing ://// sucks hard.. rear 203mm is fine
My guess is 1 of 2 things. Adaptor is incorrect or not seated properly. More likely is that the rotor is the issue. It might be slightly out of round from impact, shipping or heat, or it could be an issue at the connection points on the hub. If it is just very light rub, you could just shim the pads during bleed and setup or wait for the pads to wear a bit. If it is heavy enough to effect performance, either true or replace the rotor (hopefully they can still be exchanged for free).
Trick stuff brakes are expensive but I hear they are in a League of their own
What about Hope V4's ?
I hear they are great if you put your order in back in 2019.
I don’t think hope have the power these days!
@@SamsBikes Certainly if you can't get a set to buy. Maybe it supply is better in other parts of the world, but they have been near to vapor ware in the US for years now.
@@SamsBikes have you tried them. A very reputable UK Specialized dealer tells me they fit more V4's than any brake on Levo's
J ai récemment acheter un Norco Range Vlt C2, équiper de sram code r, je pèse lourd (100kg) et le vélo avec l équipement aussi (30kg avec batterie de 900wh) le freinage en lui même est satisfaisant mais pour obtenir un bon freinage à basse vitesse dans des descentes raide et cassante ils fait les tirer au maximum vers le guidon et lorsque les descentes sont longues les mains finissent par être douloureuse !
Es ce que des Mt7 pro on une force équivalente ou supérieure sans écraser les leviers et avoir des crampes au mains 🙌 …..
Got the mt7 callipers shimano leavers very happy with them plenty of power just didn’t like the Magura leavers felt cheap
Oh the old surguro love them
Top tip. Speed the video up by 1.25 times. Then this dude will talk at a normal speed and it will save you a bit of your valuable life! 😀
Top tip Andy
Without watching:yes MT7 are the best brakes on planet earth.
Hahaha yes 🙌 they rock
hands down best brakes at the money
Totally
Had a mt07 they are nothing compared to the Hayes dominion. Hayes dominion are unreal power.
I've Gone Shagura with 223 Rotors 😎
Lmfao Magura are the worst possible brakes money can buy.
Wow 😮 how wrong can you be!
What’s your beef hahah?
They are incredibly powerful, consistent and great modulation. Basically all you want. I own MT7 HC3 203 F&R set up. I had Shimano XT 8020 4piston 200mm F&R.
Both 4 piston both 200+mm rotors.
No comparison. MT7 so consistently powerful. My Shimanos would have a wandering bite point after long descents. MT7 remain incredibly consistent.
I had some problems with front brake but due to not properly bedding in initially. Once I got them right. Sheeeesssshh.