I'm sort of the opposite of Johnny. Doing V2 and V3 at my local gym even though I can hang on an edge like that or even smaller for 10 seconds with +80 pounds with a base weight of 200. I have a really strong grip and upper body can do slow and controlled pull-ups with a 40 pounds vest, and not horrible overall shape. Yet am struggling up v3 (albeit likely v4/5 at other gyms, but nowhere near the calculated abilities by Lattice???). The Lattice test doesn't take core strength nor Johnny's fantastic looking climbing form into account.
I would love a TH-cam series called ‘Johnny gets jacked’, visiting all the current super wads, training hard in a Rocky style montage, with a slash style guitarist in the background constantly shredding in front of a wind machine… culminating in a revisit to bright Lycra tights and cranking hard on something mental with Ondra, Moon, Moffat, and Magnus in a kind of Old vs New wad-off climbing league…Then maybe arm wrestling with Devon Larratt or something.
Listening to Johnny talk about climbing is like listening to Picasso talk about painting, or Kubrick talk about making films. He sees it totally differently and it's enlightening.
Will be following this series for sure, as a fellow 'chonk' who climbs much harder than the stats & numbers would indicate. Also, the lattice test doesn't capture technique & any muscle groups outside the dead hang chain so not surprised that it's way far off. You know how to move your body & that's what counts.
From Stone Monkey to present day. A MAHOOSIVE inspiration in my climbing career and great to see the story continuing. At my 58th year i find you as inspiring now as you were back in the 80,s. Excellent work sir!
What i'm saying is nothing new, but i just needed to say it again. The way you view climbing movement is such a blessing. So much of climbing training these days are so much about weight training, precision, try hard, and so little talk and understanding that our body and fascia is another mind in us that can be tapped into. I'm heading back to the gym tomorrow, and I can't wait to try and throw myself at the wall and letting my face guide the rest of my body. Mind blown! You're a legend, thank you for being you!
Dude came here after seeing you with Toby and Hannah and love your style of explaining some of the principles underlying climbing really clearly, your a great teacher looking forward to more good content 👍
Jonny you were and are an inspiration to me. Back in the days of climbing hard you made it look effortless and i always tried to emulate your style. Now approaching 56 this month and back climbing I find myself on a similar path. I look forward to following your journey along with my own. Wishing you peace love and mindfulness my friend.
How come this has not more views? Watched youre film "slabducation" totally awsome. You come a long way. Wheight loss while bouldering is hard. Im 41 helps if im eating only protein and veggies and starve 12 hours a day. You where a hero when i was a lightwheigt "addict" in my late teens and started climbing. Was told Alpinism is the ultimate climbing. So nevere got strong. Now im 41. Started a lattice program 1.5 years ago. Now climbing harder than ever. You still a inspiration. Keep believing! Go hard!
I did the assessment today and was told that I have extremely weak fingers for the grades I climb, very similar stats to you but without the history of climbing so hard. I'd love to see you find that 4th gear again, you are a joy to watch climbing. And if the data shows anything it's just how valuable great technique really is. I ran into you in London years ago, and still remember you telling me to remember the face I made in the position I wanted to go to, this still unlocks hard sequences for me today. Keep on keeping on!
I'm more inclined to think that it shows the assessment isn't very good at predicting anything. Possibly you're an outlier. You need some very specific things to model it I think, because grading in climbing gyms is mostly fantasy. Then there's the whole subjective aspect of an individual deciding what grade they can climb. There are people who push grades to the point where they'd look for the one v5 in the gym they can climb rather than tackle all the v3/v4 they can't. Others will walk past boulders harder than the grade they believe they can climb for months or years until they decide one day they've improved (or someone else pushes them to try, like a coach or climbing buddy - often I'm thanked for "coaching" someone on a climb I can't even do, and I've just said "Why not push down on that hold?" or something that's just obvious when you're stood watching someone else) It's like the thing where a coach gets someone to climb 2 or 3 grades higher than they ever have. It's tempting to think that the coach is really good, but it's far more likely to be that the person was already capable of climbing that boulder problem, because we don't learn while we're practising things or get fit while we exercise. We learn when we're asleep and we get fitter when we're resting. Climbing specifically has a failure mode of falling and doing something hard is scary. There can't be many guitar players who actually can play Eruption but didn't realise they were good enough because the failure mode of trying to play something on the guitar is a noise you didn't want from the guitar and a bit of frustration. So there likely are far more climbers who are better than they think compared with guitar players - thus fewer opportunities for a guitar teacher to show the student he can play Eruption and have the student think the teacher is brilliant "after only one lesson I was playing Eruption! It was much harder than any piece I'd played before!" but in climbing I think the bulk of people are going to be stopping before failure and far more likely to be unaware of their own current ability. If you have 1 session with a coach then he or she is likely to show you what you can already do (which is probably still worth the money - especially if it's a few grades higher than you figured you were at), but you'd need to have n sessions, and time between each session where you put their ideas into practise and then you'll have an idea of how much their coaching has improved your climbing. Just as if you're following a training plan for running or cycling or whatever, getting a PB on your 1st or 2nd run isn't down to the training.
@@michael1 It's a statistical model. It is just a large collection of test results along with the self-reported max grade those folks can climb. It is what it is. It is factual that of those in the lattice database, johnny's lattice strength test is weaker than the average person in the database that climbs at his grade. Obviously this doesn't "predict" what grade you can actually climb at, but it's still interesting information, don't you think?
@@johnnydawesofficial I am a few years older than you and good weight is around 78-79 kg. Now I am 83 kg and every year it is more difficult to lose weight. I will probably now start it via fasting for 5 days. Then just trying to keep the weight. I wouldnt look too much into those Lattice numbers. Technique and using your body outdoor is way more important. And you are a master at that.
Goooo Johnny! Love it. I can’t beleive this channel is still relatively undiscovered. Be awesome to see you cranking it again, go kick Ben & Jerry’s arses, they sold out when they moved into ice cream! 💪 💪 💪
This is super cool to see Johnny. I'm really enjoying following your story. Thanks for posting this stuff, keep it coming! Cheers from the Pacific Northwest USA.
Love this. Johnny’s style of climbing was never my forte but he was always an inspiration. Back in the 90’s I crossed paths with him a few times. Always a lovely bloke. Such a great video he come across as the Terry Hearn of climbing 💪🏼
@@johnnydawesofficial I wouldn’t say I’m a fanatical fisherman.. climbing is my passion, but like you Terry has always been an inspiration. I his passion for his craft, he seems to find so much calm in his focus. You narrate in a similar way. '11 years afloat’ is a lovely watch. Tracking down elusive Thames carp from the back of his dads boat. The detail & enthusiasm he recounts each capture is very special. The very same reasons I love listing to you. Keep it up Johnny 💪🏻
it's been a few years now since i was either of the above, regrettably! i was still light when i hit my 40s, plus fairly strong, pretty psyched and in possession of a modicum of technique. sufficient to redpoint 7A plastic, anyway. a decade later of remote office work, home-brewing, some splendid cookery and no climbing and i'm a different beast. i certainly look forward to following your progress!
Speaking as someone who climbs V6-8 with "V3 finger strength" I came to the conclusion that the strength of climbers in the lattice data set at the lower grades is probably quite biased - the average V3 climbing will not have heard of lattice training, and they are testing/obtaining data from a tiny fraction who have. These climbers are much more likely to be into training (hangboarding) than average. I really wouldn't read too much into it.
Hey Johnny - great vid, great to see you on here after so long. Will follow you religiously and see where you get to - looking forward to having sessions together again! Love The Corporate Fluffer..
@@johnnydawesofficial I think we would just like to see the journey of you enjoying climbing/ getting fit again, whatever that may entail. You're just a great personality to watch, the way you think about/approach climbing is inspirational.
High ideals is what keeps us going, if we can believe we can do it, we may as well do it! Great video! Have to get you to Castle Hill in New Zealand and jumping on our slick limestone boulders here.
Great to see new uploads from your u Johnny! Was a pleasure learning from you at Redpoint :) Would be great to follow you training up for a challenging project 💪
What a story! There was rumors years ago about a documentary about John Sherman getting back in shape to do midnight lightning. I always thought it would be such a great story. Seeing you now actually doing it is great. Ive always looked up to the way you climb and analyze movement. Your way of seeing and describing the world is incredibly catchy. I cant wait to see the rest of your series!
Shortly before covid hit I was fortunate to be able to climb with him in Hueco at the Rodeo. He did a V7 with absolutely dogshit beta. It was probably a V9 the way he had done it. So who knows.
The thyroid issue are very depressing. Over 15 years ago, I started to gain weight but didn't know why...too much eating. As it turns out I had thyroid cancer. My thyroid was completely removed and I think I've just been stuck at an uncomfortable weight. I used to climb a lot and now it is difficult. Great that you had good doctors to help you. Congrats on your climbing! I can relate to thinking you can climb something but the body says no. But this believe is good motivation to keep climbing.
Rock climbing at heavier weights can be a kicker, even if youre strong! I'm about 6', and climbing at 200lbs, even while very lean and muscular, sporting a 6 pack, was extremely difficult. I was sending about v4's. I have lost about 20 pounds, and at 180 I am now comfortably sending v6's. Just 20 lbs off boosted me up 2 grades rather comfortably
Maybe the lack of correlation between Johnny's finger strength and his projected grade shows the differences in types of climb (e.g Meltdown vs Hubble) and how they are approached.. .and also illuminates why Johnny's climbs are beyond many climbers who can do 1 finger pullups with 100kg weights attached to.rheir belts?
Ketosis has really worked for me now I’m 50 High fat rich food Ultra low carb 5 kilo down already Had all the same issues you describe Bad biome All seems to be sorted now. Liver function well and also cholesterol normal despite eating masses of fat
Johnnny's result is another proof I have witnessed in my 30 years of climbing how sometimes strength is overrated and inadequate. Many climbers would be much better of if they simply got better in climbing instead of trying to get stronger and stronger. Don't get me wrong, strength is hugely important as it's a foundation for many aspects of climbing, but this sport is way too complex for just simplifying it to hangs on the rungs. From coaching point of view when we have facilities available for measuring weight distribution between holds and footholds including smearing and using different techniques and body positions, for me personally it would be where real fun begins. Very interesting video, I always like to listen to Johnny Dawes.
I reckon the My Fingers app gives Johnny a lower expected grade, because he’s so good at transferring the weight to his feet, meaning he might not have the expected finger strength for the grade he can climb. Also, I’m delighted to see Johnny still climbing! He was my hero 30? 35? years ago. Now I’m 280 pound and can’t hold onto a scaffold bar for more then a second. I wonder if I finally lost 100lb, could I pootle about on the wall again…
My problem with cutting weight has always been that it tends to lead to injury. I get psyched as things feel easy, then pull to hard/too often and oops, take a few steps back. Psyched to see you climb harder (oh, and you’re not ‘weak’ for the grade, you’re very good at not using your fingers!) When Dave Mac’s fingers got stronger, he could translate that to rock very well, whereas for most people, stronger fingers don’t mean higher grades straight away. Best of luck!
Thank you Hugo. Personally I am working on the physical more but for most people I think focusing on gng is most important and most rewarding for one's performance and enjoyment.
@@johnnydawesofficial Have you considered a video about the techniques you developed throughout your climbing life? You spoke of your rhythm techniques for example but that seems like such an art! Would be really great to get tips from the master 🤨 I am moving to North Wales this year and plan on spending a lot of time in Dinorwig, not sure if I have the bottle for any of your routes yet!
I live near Hereford and your'e spot on about Herefordshire and the limestone. Loads of crags but pretty much all limestone. Found some granite t'other day though at Pontesford Rock just outside Shrewsbury. Shut now until June for Peregrine nesting. Pretty sure its all well under your pay grade though, but as you look to get back to your best it is reasonably close and good fun.
Go Johnny! You can do anything you set your mind to! Great solution to avoid afternoon boozing and snacking- climb in the evenings! Please do some videos from Redpoint Worcester!
Hey Johnny, I’ve only recently learnt of your existence. I’ve noticed so many similarities, being the shortest guy in the gym giving similar demands styles. My transfer of weight being significantly weaker though. I’m also from Ledbury, but only picked up climbing once I left! Given the little built up crags in the area I’d never even heard of climbing. Can you give more information on Ledbury ridge? I’d love to check it out when I go visit the parents.
I was bouldering V10 at 14.65 Stone in the recent past (granted I'm 183cm/6 ft.) Put the work in, drop a couple Stone and you'll be crushing again soon enough. Strength isn't owned, it's rented and the rent is due every day...
the test results simply speak to Johnny's technical ability in my mind. the lattice test is clearly not completely evolved yet, as it does not take body awareness and balance, etc, into account.
With Johnny talking about how heavy and weak he is now I didn’t expect his fingers to be stronger than mine. I thought his technique was his super power but he still has the fingers a bit too. I also climb V7
Likewise I am finding whisky, chocolate and cashew nuts every day are challenging my climbing ability and harness fit, if you can do it, I'm going to do it! Keep inspiring Johnny!
@@richardbradley1532 how so, the system didn't work for his stats at all and just served as a confusion as to why it didn't show his projected grades anything like the reality? Climbing isn't about stats and numbers, they're just a way to show progression. It's just an explanation, not an instruction. Climbing is an inbuilt human intuition, hence the reason why kids can be instantly brilliant at it, straight out the box and adults can 'train' for years and get no where. Watch the videos of Johnny coaching the young lad from team GB, then Hannah from the TH-cam back to back. The adult had to relearn to use the intuition, the kid didn't, both seemingly learnt a lot and progressed.
Love this. Do grades mean everything or is it about doing the best In the moment. Drinking to much never helps but drinking nothing at all seam extreme.
Perhaps you're right. The climbs, I want to do demand I lose weight. That means no drink as a little encourages me to snack and drink more. What happened last night!
When checking the results with the "modified" bodyweight, did you take into account that you would be able to add way more weight (about current added weight + "simulated weightloss")?
I’ve gotten the same results with those finger strength tests. Told me I should be at V7 but I consistently climb V9 and have sent multiple V10s and a couple V11s (outside) in varying styles from steep, vert to slab. Indoors I typically flash up to V8/V9 with the occasional V10. When I was competing I was objectively the weakest member of the team I trained on but also consistently did better than my peers in competition and on training problems. When I started climbing I spent years climbing technical limestone and granite on trad and I attribute my success to a solid foundation of movement and technique. I think it is likely that you are in a similar position being a master of movement. As much as strength is important in rock climbing, it is a skill based sport at the end of the day and I think most climbers overlook the development of technique, including lattice.
Think you got the math wrong, if you lost 13kg you’ll still be able to hang same total weight so your added weight would go from 15.5kg to 28.5kg which is nearly 1/2 of theoretical body weight and I think you’d get some higher predicted grades at that?
Has Johnny given up or just stopped making videos? P.S. Johnny, have you tried time restricted eating / fasting (16/8, 18/6 etc)? Its super effective and easy to drop weight doing it.
love seeing this, I am 220lbs and climb 6b+. motivational as I wanna push for 7a but struggle to keep my weight down and I love to eat and strength train :)
I've been there. It's been three years since my return to climbing following a successful shoulder surgery. Now, at 40, I've finally lost enough weight and learned enough about avoiding injury that success seems almost inevitable. I can't say it's been easy learning to believe in myself as an athlete again, but it's really happening. The key is this: JUST DON'T GIVE UP.
Did you convert to 64kg correctly? As in keeping the total weight hung the same so about 10 kg added to your added weight to match the 10 you would loose?
Comes down to climbing or drinking, every time ´one ´ drinks , the wrong choices re food get made, like cashew nuts are nicer than sauerkraut. Wine nicer than water? Climbing nicer than pub and television ?
In regards to the finger strength results, not only your reduced weight in the future should be considered, your hang time + additional weight would be different from the original test as you would be lighter, therefore, giving you a different result completely. Calculating the result -13kg bodyweight and +13kg additional weight for the hangs? Would this give different statistics? I don't think it would translate to the reality of when you are that weight though... it's all just numbers. Have fun
Bloody hell Johnny where have you been? I remember climbing in the sixties and rumours going round of this bloke putting all these crazy new routes up in the quarries, turned out it was you😃
Keep in mind, you currently pull 77kg (body weight) + 15kg = 92kg. If you lost 13kg, you would probably still pull 92kg total so the added weight would be 64kg (body weight) + 28kg. Adding 28kg in the lattice app would be more realistic, which is why the numbers didn’t sound right
I'd add the weight lost to added weight on the Hangboard, as you would still be able to hang all of it in total. If you lost 13kg, your added weight on the Hangboard would go up without any strength increase. Still though, it goes to show how much of a skill sport this is. I think you'd still seem weak relative to other climbers on the stats yet the grade has been climbed showing that it is possible.
I need to loose exactly 1 stone. And I am 11.11 just as Johnny :) over 50 yers old and climb around V5 as Johnny :)) It would be cool to have a challenge together with him to loose it till let say end of June :)) It would motivate me so bad!!!
@@johnnydawesofficial 10.86 atm I could do better but I was 2 weeks on climbing row on Czech sandstone. On one hand I was not eating much during day but in the evenings I ate a lot of bad stuff in the pub and had some beers :/ :)))
Makes a lot of sense that you're weak for the grade considering how much more technique and experience you have than the average climber. If you consider your current level I would guess you'd boulder around v9/10 factoring in weight loss.
Your technique is amazing Johnny so much to learn from watching you climb - I hope you reach your fitness goals but I don't think this test is accurate for you (having so much technique and experience).
These tests seem heavily biased towards new - way too strong, doesn't know how to climb - gym climber. Funny how shocked you were ;) There are Japanese 50kg monsters hanging on 2,5mm edges nowadays, not joking :) Doing pull ups with more than +100% bodyweight as well.
As we get older being delusional can be a comfort, like a blurry mirror. Keep going Johnny. If anyone can do it, it's you. Still an inspiration.
I have to learn how to be active as I am now. Interest in amongst the sportiness is what will work I think
I'm sort of the opposite of Johnny.
Doing V2 and V3 at my local gym even though I can hang on an edge like that or even smaller for 10 seconds with +80 pounds with a base weight of 200. I have a really strong grip and upper body can do slow and controlled pull-ups with a 40 pounds vest, and not horrible overall shape. Yet am struggling up v3 (albeit likely v4/5 at other gyms, but nowhere near the calculated abilities by Lattice???).
The Lattice test doesn't take core strength nor Johnny's fantastic looking climbing form into account.
I would love a TH-cam series called ‘Johnny gets jacked’, visiting all the current super wads, training hard in a Rocky style montage, with a slash style guitarist in the background constantly shredding in front of a wind machine… culminating in a revisit to bright Lycra tights and cranking hard on something mental with Ondra, Moon, Moffat, and Magnus in a kind of Old vs New wad-off climbing league…Then maybe arm wrestling with Devon Larratt or something.
Antiques roadshow
😆
Listening to Johnny talk about climbing is like listening to Picasso talk about painting, or Kubrick talk about making films. He sees it totally differently and it's enlightening.
Will be following this series for sure, as a fellow 'chonk' who climbs much harder than the stats & numbers would indicate. Also, the lattice test doesn't capture technique & any muscle groups outside the dead hang chain so not surprised that it's way far off. You know how to move your body & that's what counts.
@@nickhenscheid369chonk!
From Stone Monkey to present day. A MAHOOSIVE inspiration in my climbing career and great to see the story continuing. At my 58th year i find you as inspiring now as you were back in the 80,s. Excellent work sir!
All the best to you Graham
Inspiring to see Johnny making a comeback. This is the pyche food I need to make me try harder
What i'm saying is nothing new, but i just needed to say it again. The way you view climbing movement is such a blessing. So much of climbing training these days are so much about weight training, precision, try hard, and so little talk and understanding that our body and fascia is another mind in us that can be tapped into. I'm heading back to the gym tomorrow, and I can't wait to try and throw myself at the wall and letting my face guide the rest of my body. Mind blown! You're a legend, thank you for being you!
Cheers. Largely ignored but not for long x
Oh my gosh! Jonny Dawes is my spirit animal x
How so weirdo! Haha
Dude came here after seeing you with Toby and Hannah and love your style of explaining some of the principles underlying climbing really clearly, your a great teacher looking forward to more good content 👍
Jonny you were and are an inspiration to me. Back in the days of climbing hard you made it look effortless and i always tried to emulate your style. Now approaching 56 this month and back climbing I find myself on a similar path. I look forward to following your journey along with my own. Wishing you peace love and mindfulness my friend.
Thank you Pat. Very encouraging of you. There is potential. I have learnt a lot to apply to a fit me
How come this has not more views?
Watched youre film "slabducation" totally awsome. You come a long way. Wheight loss while bouldering is hard. Im 41 helps if im eating only protein and veggies and starve 12 hours a day. You where a hero when i was a lightwheigt "addict" in my late teens and started climbing. Was told Alpinism is the ultimate climbing. So nevere got strong. Now im 41. Started a lattice program 1.5 years ago. Now climbing harder than ever. You still a inspiration. Keep believing! Go hard!
Talo Martins film though. Thank you
Well done getting stuck in by the way
I did the assessment today and was told that I have extremely weak fingers for the grades I climb, very similar stats to you but without the history of climbing so hard. I'd love to see you find that 4th gear again, you are a joy to watch climbing. And if the data shows anything it's just how valuable great technique really is. I ran into you in London years ago, and still remember you telling me to remember the face I made in the position I wanted to go to, this still unlocks hard sequences for me today. Keep on keeping on!
That's great to hear. Keep on keeping on and in touch..
I'm more inclined to think that it shows the assessment isn't very good at predicting anything. Possibly you're an outlier. You need some very specific things to model it I think, because grading in climbing gyms is mostly fantasy. Then there's the whole subjective aspect of an individual deciding what grade they can climb. There are people who push grades to the point where they'd look for the one v5 in the gym they can climb rather than tackle all the v3/v4 they can't. Others will walk past boulders harder than the grade they believe they can climb for months or years until they decide one day they've improved (or someone else pushes them to try, like a coach or climbing buddy - often I'm thanked for "coaching" someone on a climb I can't even do, and I've just said "Why not push down on that hold?" or something that's just obvious when you're stood watching someone else)
It's like the thing where a coach gets someone to climb 2 or 3 grades higher than they ever have. It's tempting to think that the coach is really good, but it's far more likely to be that the person was already capable of climbing that boulder problem, because we don't learn while we're practising things or get fit while we exercise. We learn when we're asleep and we get fitter when we're resting. Climbing specifically has a failure mode of falling and doing something hard is scary. There can't be many guitar players who actually can play Eruption but didn't realise they were good enough because the failure mode of trying to play something on the guitar is a noise you didn't want from the guitar and a bit of frustration. So there likely are far more climbers who are better than they think compared with guitar players - thus fewer opportunities for a guitar teacher to show the student he can play Eruption and have the student think the teacher is brilliant "after only one lesson I was playing Eruption! It was much harder than any piece I'd played before!" but in climbing I think the bulk of people are going to be stopping before failure and far more likely to be unaware of their own current ability.
If you have 1 session with a coach then he or she is likely to show you what you can already do (which is probably still worth the money - especially if it's a few grades higher than you figured you were at), but you'd need to have n sessions, and time between each session where you put their ideas into practise and then you'll have an idea of how much their coaching has improved your climbing. Just as if you're following a training plan for running or cycling or whatever, getting a PB on your 1st or 2nd run isn't down to the training.
@@michael1 It's a statistical model. It is just a large collection of test results along with the self-reported max grade those folks can climb. It is what it is. It is factual that of those in the lattice database, johnny's lattice strength test is weaker than the average person in the database that climbs at his grade.
Obviously this doesn't "predict" what grade you can actually climb at, but it's still interesting information, don't you think?
Love this guy.
Love his self-analysis.
Love his reflections.
Love his intimations of mortality.
I can relate, basically.
Well put. Supportive. Thanks
Love it! I climb V6 at 200 pounds and it was nice hearing the weight caveat. “Fancy a scotch John” sums up my last 16 years in the US Navy 😂😂😂
So easy to Piss it up The wall. I am too much of a hedonist by inclination
@@johnnydawesofficial you have more than earned that privilege of personal indulgence johnny
Yes!! Loving all the Johnny Dawes content as of late.
Thanks so much
Cheers buddy
Losing weight is extremely hard work and takes a lot of discipline. Good luck Johnny. You’re a fn legend!
It really does. Appreciate your good wishes
@@johnnydawesofficial I am a few years older than you and good weight is around 78-79 kg. Now I am 83 kg and every year it is more difficult to lose weight. I will probably now start it via fasting for 5 days. Then just trying to keep the weight.
I wouldnt look too much into those Lattice numbers. Technique and using your body outdoor is way more important. And you are a master at that.
Goooo Johnny! Love it. I can’t beleive this channel is still relatively undiscovered.
Be awesome to see you cranking it again, go kick Ben & Jerry’s arses, they sold out when they moved into ice cream! 💪 💪 💪
I enjoyed that little bit of Salty caramel there
And more to come my lump.. You'll get soon in shape 🤘 🤘
Gracias amigo x
Johnny vs The Biome. Great story, looking forward to the next Ep.
This is super cool to see Johnny. I'm really enjoying following your story. Thanks for posting this stuff, keep it coming! Cheers from the Pacific Northwest USA.
Nice trees!!
This is fantastic. Keep up the videos you're a legend!
Love this. Johnny’s style of climbing was never my forte but he was always an inspiration. Back in the 90’s I crossed paths with him a few times. Always a lovely bloke. Such a great video he come across as the Terry Hearn of climbing 💪🏼
Just watched Terry Hearn. That's a big compliment. Thank you
@@johnnydawesofficial I wouldn’t say I’m a fanatical fisherman.. climbing is my passion, but like you Terry has always been an inspiration. I his passion for his craft, he seems to find so much calm in his focus. You narrate in a similar way. '11 years afloat’ is a lovely watch. Tracking down elusive Thames carp from the back of his dads boat. The detail & enthusiasm he recounts each capture is very special. The very same reasons I love listing to you. Keep it up Johnny 💪🏻
So psyched for this comeback story, queue training montage!
Can’t spell Dawes without awe. I could listen to Jonny talk about climbing for hours.
Thats a classic!
Thanks by the way
'fit boi pump'... love this chat, johnny!
Haha. It's fun to be light and strong
it's been a few years now since i was either of the above, regrettably! i was still light when i hit my 40s, plus fairly strong, pretty psyched and in possession of a modicum of technique. sufficient to redpoint 7A plastic, anyway. a decade later of remote office work, home-brewing, some splendid cookery and no climbing and i'm a different beast. i certainly look forward to following your progress!
Inspiring stuff Johnny excited to see the progression
I must charge my phone then!
Speaking as someone who climbs V6-8 with "V3 finger strength" I came to the conclusion that the strength of climbers in the lattice data set at the lower grades is probably quite biased - the average V3 climbing will not have heard of lattice training, and they are testing/obtaining data from a tiny fraction who have. These climbers are much more likely to be into training (hangboarding) than average. I really wouldn't read too much into it.
Hey Johnny - great vid, great to see you on here after so long. Will follow you religiously and see where you get to - looking forward to having sessions together again! Love The Corporate Fluffer..
I would like to formulate the mentor programme with you...
Excited to follow this series, great video Johnny. Cheers from Vancouver Island!
What should I cover next?
@@johnnydawesofficial I think we would just like to see the journey of you enjoying climbing/ getting fit again, whatever that may entail. You're just a great personality to watch, the way you think about/approach climbing is inspirational.
This is gold Johnny
Thanks my good friend
Very inspiring!! This has soul!
imho he's the goat of climbing. I've met him a few times and he signed his book for my son. A thoroughly nice guy.
Legend - thanks Johnny
I'm sure there is a V8 slab laying about Johnny could wander up tomorrow. All that toe strength!
High ideals is what keeps us going, if we can believe we can do it, we may as well do it! Great video! Have to get you to Castle Hill in New Zealand and jumping on our slick limestone boulders here.
Keen as. Great idea re Castle rock
So relatable. The belly, the whisky, high aspirations (too high?), gut health remedies, the whole thing. We'll get there, just some patience.
Probably too high. But I do them if I really believe. That's the trick and the situation has to help or at least not hinder..
Great to see new uploads from your u Johnny! Was a pleasure learning from you at Redpoint :)
Would be great to follow you training up for a challenging project 💪
More to come!
What a story! There was rumors years ago about a documentary about John Sherman getting back in shape to do midnight lightning. I always thought it would be such a great story. Seeing you now actually doing it is great. Ive always looked up to the way you climb and analyze movement. Your way of seeing and describing the world is incredibly catchy. I cant wait to see the rest of your series!
Shortly before covid hit I was fortunate to be able to climb with him in Hueco at the Rodeo. He did a V7 with absolutely dogshit beta. It was probably a V9 the way he had done it. So who knows.
Keep going Johnny!
I will steadily do just that. What the widening space next to me
Watch
Nice to know legends sometimes struggle…quite inspirational!
The thyroid issue are very depressing. Over 15 years ago, I started to gain weight but didn't know why...too much eating. As it turns out I had thyroid cancer. My thyroid was completely removed and I think I've just been stuck at an uncomfortable weight. I used to climb a lot and now it is difficult. Great that you had good doctors to help you. Congrats on your climbing! I can relate to thinking you can climb something but the body says no. But this believe is good motivation to keep climbing.
Good luck
Great stuff Johnny 👍
Thank you
Nice to see you at the OG depot 💪🏼
Cheers dude.
Rock climbing at heavier weights can be a kicker, even if youre strong! I'm about 6', and climbing at 200lbs, even while very lean and muscular, sporting a 6 pack, was extremely difficult. I was sending about v4's. I have lost about 20 pounds, and at 180 I am now comfortably sending v6's. Just 20 lbs off boosted me up 2 grades rather comfortably
Weight is so crucial
On that path too... looking to shed about 20kg ideally. Just the small amount I've lost already is improving my confidence massively!
This man freed Indian Face first y’all!
Go Johnny go! Great inspiration.
Thanks for the big up
Maybe the lack of correlation between Johnny's finger strength and his projected grade shows the differences in types of climb (e.g Meltdown vs Hubble) and how they are approached.. .and also illuminates why Johnny's climbs are beyond many climbers who can do 1 finger pullups with 100kg weights attached to.rheir belts?
Hurrah
Bummer re meltdown never happening. Will do this year hopefully
Hell yeah Johnny!!
Ketosis has really worked for me now I’m 50
High fat rich food
Ultra low carb
5 kilo down already
Had all the same issues you describe
Bad biome
All seems to be sorted now. Liver function well and also cholesterol normal despite eating masses of fat
Thanks for getting in touch.
Johnnny's result is another proof I have witnessed in my 30 years of climbing how sometimes strength is overrated and inadequate. Many climbers would be much better of if they simply got better in climbing instead of trying to get stronger and stronger. Don't get me wrong, strength is hugely important as it's a foundation for many aspects of climbing, but this sport is way too complex for just simplifying it to hangs on the rungs. From coaching point of view when we have facilities available for measuring weight distribution between holds and footholds including smearing and using different techniques and body positions, for me personally it would be where real fun begins. Very interesting video, I always like to listen to Johnny Dawes.
Love Johnny every climber needs to rewatch everything he’s done and employ some of that to there way of climbing
Totally inspirational. Think I might hit the gym
There's nothing like it!!
It's for Nov granite hit in Madrid
I reckon the My Fingers app gives Johnny a lower expected grade, because he’s so good at transferring the weight to his feet, meaning he might not have the expected finger strength for the grade he can climb.
Also, I’m delighted to see Johnny still climbing! He was my hero 30? 35? years ago.
Now I’m 280 pound and can’t hold onto a scaffold bar for more then a second. I wonder if I finally lost 100lb, could I pootle about on the wall again…
Why not mate
I’m on a new journey to get rid of 25kgs after giving up the booze, one step at a time, feels great taking back some control
Go Johnny, go! 👏👏👏💪❤️
You're a slab machine! Focus on that. Great inspirational video, fenks!
Yes and No!!
@@johnnydawesofficial at 4pm on the rocks but leave the ice... haha
Legend! Good luck
Btw lovely pun in the title, alluding to a certain classic volume
It was quite obviously the right one once I'd thought of it. Cheers
My problem with cutting weight has always been that it tends to lead to injury. I get psyched as things feel easy, then pull to hard/too often and oops, take a few steps back.
Psyched to see you climb harder (oh, and you’re not ‘weak’ for the grade, you’re very good at not using your fingers!) When Dave Mac’s fingers got stronger, he could translate that to rock very well, whereas for most people, stronger fingers don’t mean higher grades straight away. Best of luck!
He's efficient I would say. I am going at a Conservative but steady pace. Improving well now
That's encouraging. Thanks
Love it, such an inspiration to me and many other young climbers Johnny! I think a refocus on developing technique over strength is in order
Thank you Hugo.
Personally I am working on the physical more but for most people I think focusing on gng is most important and most rewarding for one's performance and enjoyment.
@@johnnydawesofficial Have you considered a video about the techniques you developed throughout your climbing life? You spoke of your rhythm techniques for example but that seems like such an art! Would be really great to get tips from the master 🤨 I am moving to North Wales this year and plan on spending a lot of time in Dinorwig, not sure if I have the bottle for any of your routes yet!
@@hugolewis4543 I have been preparing video lessons for my site. Not long now. Will do freebie versions that cover the basics on TH-cam
@@johnnydawesofficial Ill be patiently waiting for that to go live then!
I live near Hereford and your'e spot on about Herefordshire and the limestone. Loads of crags but pretty much all limestone. Found some granite t'other day though at Pontesford Rock just outside Shrewsbury. Shut now until June for Peregrine nesting. Pretty sure its all well under your pay grade though, but as you look to get back to your best it is reasonably close and good fun.
I really like pontesford
@@johnnydawesofficial Why am I not surprised you know all the crags around here?😃
Brilliant...
Cheers
Go Johnny! You can do anything you set your mind to! Great solution to avoid afternoon boozing and snacking- climb in the evenings! Please do some videos from Redpoint Worcester!
Already did that tonght funnily
Are you a willing victim?
Ha ha I think you need better climbers than me in the videos if you don't want to lose subscribers 😉 😜 😄
Hey Johnny, I’ve only recently learnt of your existence. I’ve noticed so many similarities, being the shortest guy in the gym giving similar demands styles. My transfer of weight being significantly weaker though. I’m also from Ledbury, but only picked up climbing once I left! Given the little built up crags in the area I’d never even heard of climbing. Can you give more information on Ledbury ridge? I’d love to check it out when I go visit the parents.
Not so good but interesting
@@johnnydawesofficial Yep. Sounds like Ledbury.
@@RuddyDuck1411 get in touch. It's rubbish
I was bouldering V10 at 14.65 Stone in the recent past (granted I'm 183cm/6 ft.) Put the work in, drop a couple Stone and you'll be crushing again soon enough. Strength isn't owned, it's rented and the rent is due every day...
Where"s my book ':/!?
@@johnnydawesofficial 🤔
One strong element with JD is always his leg strength.
the test results simply speak to Johnny's technical ability in my mind. the lattice test is clearly not completely evolved yet, as it does not take body awareness and balance, etc, into account.
With Johnny talking about how heavy and weak he is now I didn’t expect his fingers to be stronger than mine. I thought his technique was his super power but he still has the fingers a bit too. I also climb V7
They are getting stronger too Andrew I'm pleased to say. Did 3 V6s today
Likewise I am finding whisky, chocolate and cashew nuts every day are challenging my climbing ability and harness fit, if you can do it, I'm going to do it! Keep inspiring Johnny!
… love the ego-free honesty and thanks for the tip re. 4 x K’s !! … (another 59 year old!) …
You should do a collaboration with Lattice.
That has been mooted
His whole being devolves their science and it's better that way for those that know.
@@Rhythm24inch I actually think the two approaches could be complimentary.
@@richardbradley1532 how so, the system didn't work for his stats at all and just served as a confusion as to why it didn't show his projected grades anything like the reality?
Climbing isn't about stats and numbers, they're just a way to show progression. It's just an explanation, not an instruction.
Climbing is an inbuilt human intuition, hence the reason why kids can be instantly brilliant at it, straight out the box and adults can 'train' for years and get no where.
Watch the videos of Johnny coaching the young lad from team GB, then Hannah from the TH-cam back to back. The adult had to relearn to use the intuition, the kid didn't, both seemingly learnt a lot and progressed.
@rhythm242able exactly why a collaboration would be interesting don't you think?
Love this. Do grades mean everything or is it about doing the best In the moment. Drinking to much never helps but drinking nothing at all seam extreme.
Perhaps you're right. The climbs, I want to do demand I lose weight. That means no drink as a little encourages me to snack and drink more. What happened last night!
go johnny! this is epic. 'the viral drama' lol
Hmm
When checking the results with the "modified" bodyweight, did you take into account that you would be able to add way more weight (about current added weight + "simulated weightloss")?
Of course not
Big up Pudsey depot
Hey great to see you on TH-cam!
Did that test take your age and height into the calculations? Don't remember seeing that part in the video
It Did. Late on
I’ve gotten the same results with those finger strength tests. Told me I should be at V7 but I consistently climb V9 and have sent multiple V10s and a couple V11s (outside) in varying styles from steep, vert to slab. Indoors I typically flash up to V8/V9 with the occasional V10. When I was competing I was objectively the weakest member of the team I trained on but also consistently did better than my peers in competition and on training problems. When I started climbing I spent years climbing technical limestone and granite on trad and I attribute my success to a solid foundation of movement and technique. I think it is likely that you are in a similar position being a master of movement. As much as strength is important in rock climbing, it is a skill based sport at the end of the day and I think most climbers overlook the development of technique, including lattice.
Very interesting. Love to hear more of this
Strengt and conditioning are just the vehicle to practice technique on unforgiving problems
Think you got the math wrong, if you lost 13kg you’ll still be able to hang same total weight so your added weight would go from 15.5kg to 28.5kg which is nearly 1/2 of theoretical body weight and I think you’d get some higher predicted grades at that?
That's more encouraging. Cheers for the feedback
Has Johnny given up or just stopped making videos? P.S. Johnny, have you tried time restricted eating / fasting (16/8, 18/6 etc)? Its super effective and easy to drop weight doing it.
love seeing this, I am 220lbs and climb 6b+. motivational as I wanna push for 7a but struggle to keep my weight down and I love to eat and strength train :)
Let's do it in parallel
Have we any wine ?
I've been there. It's been three years since my return to climbing following a successful shoulder surgery. Now, at 40, I've finally lost enough weight and learned enough about avoiding injury that success seems almost inevitable. I can't say it's been easy learning to believe in myself as an athlete again, but it's really happening. The key is this: JUST DON'T GIVE UP.
Great advice
Best of luck Adam
Did you convert to 64kg correctly? As in keeping the total weight hung the same so about 10 kg added to your added weight to match the 10 you would loose?
It is not that Dawes is extremely weak. It is that many young climbers have extremely poor technique compared to their strength.
Something in that
Ever looked into faecal microbiota transplant?... love watching you climb you are an artist!
Maybe that's what I need
@@johnnydawesofficial it's another option if the kombucha and the kimchi don't work out 😉
Comes down to climbing or drinking, every time ´one ´ drinks , the wrong choices re food get made, like cashew nuts are nicer than sauerkraut. Wine nicer than water? Climbing nicer than pub and television ?
Not better. Both together is good...
In regards to the finger strength results, not only your reduced weight in the future should be considered, your hang time + additional weight would be different from the original test as you would be lighter, therefore, giving you a different result completely. Calculating the result -13kg bodyweight and +13kg additional weight for the hangs? Would this give different statistics? I don't think it would translate to the reality of when you are that weight though... it's all just numbers. Have fun
Absolutely. A bit of fun but a real beginning too
The Herefordshire silurian limestone scene
Keep it up mate, diet a few exercises and you can make a transformation
Bloody hell Johnny where have you been? I remember climbing in the sixties and rumours going round of this bloke putting all these crazy new routes up in the quarries, turned out it was you😃
It was amazing fun Fred
You weren’t holding the half crimp in the strength assessment.
You’d gone to chisel which is a different thing. That forefinger is not flexed.
I'm 52, 105kg and 2m tall, been climbing 10 years. I can climb 6b sport, 5c/6a font. It's only v3 but I'm trying.
Keep it up gravy!
@@johnnydawesofficial 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟
Keep in mind, you currently pull 77kg (body weight) + 15kg = 92kg. If you lost 13kg, you would probably still pull 92kg total so the added weight would be 64kg (body weight) + 28kg. Adding 28kg in the lattice app would be more realistic, which is why the numbers didn’t sound right
I'd add the weight lost to added weight on the Hangboard, as you would still be able to hang all of it in total. If you lost 13kg, your added weight on the Hangboard would go up without any strength increase.
Still though, it goes to show how much of a skill sport this is. I think you'd still seem weak relative to other climbers on the stats yet the grade has been climbed showing that it is possible.
I need to loose exactly 1 stone. And I am 11.11 just as Johnny :) over 50 yers old and climb around V5 as Johnny :)) It would be cool to have a challenge together with him to loose it till let say end of June :)) It would motivate me so bad!!!
Didn't see this. Maybe we should
@@johnnydawesofficial My first excuse: Not engough time till end of June :))) How about till the end of August?
Or even July?
@@jirikral1733 11.8 atm. How are you doing?
@@johnnydawesofficial 10.86 atm I could do better but I was 2 weeks on climbing row on Czech sandstone. On one hand I was not eating much during day but in the evenings I ate a lot of bad stuff in the pub and had some beers :/ :)))
Collaboration with other TH-camr climbers on the cards Johnny?
There is. Two at least atm
Who comes to mind?
Do you climb in red point worcester?
I do
The friendliest wall
As a 56 year old climber/runner I accept this denial of reality....Oh and whisky drinker
Johnny walker Black label funnily
@@johnnydawesofficial haha perfect. They should do a Cliff Walker edition
Great content! (btw, lose the carbs and weight will vanish)
There is that. Booze is the first killer
Makes a lot of sense that you're weak for the grade considering how much more technique and experience you have than the average climber. If you consider your current level I would guess you'd boulder around v9/10 factoring in weight loss.
That's where I was. Actually harder at times on the rope funnily enough but it's finding the routes
Your technique is amazing Johnny so much to learn from watching you climb - I hope you reach your fitness goals but I don't think this test is accurate for you (having so much technique and experience).
These tests seem heavily biased towards new - way too strong, doesn't know how to climb - gym climber. Funny how shocked you were ;) There are Japanese 50kg monsters hanging on 2,5mm edges nowadays, not joking :) Doing pull ups with more than +100% bodyweight as well.
Amazing. When the developments merge things will go mad