this is the first and looks like the only one decent video on the entire youtube on how to test and repair scooters electrical. thank you so much for uploading it. it was very helpful!
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON TH-cam THAT CORECTLY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM! THANK YOU AND I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS! I AM VERY THANKFUL! PEOPLE SHOULD WATCH THIS AND SPARE US ALL THE WANTABE VIDEOS! THANKS AGAIN FOR NOT MAKING A CONFUSEING VIDEO!
It doesn't get better that than this: (1).title,content/dialog matches tutorial (2) video is very informative and professional(3).I learned alot. about presentation,plus charging systems.THANKS!
great video. I have been tracking down problems on my scooter for the last couple weeks and have finally landed on electrical issues. I'm glad I found your video.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Very helpful for those of us who know how to pull a scooter apart, but don't know how to fix it. My 49cc 1988 Honda scooter thanks you too.
Thank you, just needed the pin out for the regulator! I saw the schematic and the wire colors, now I can abuse that to create a wiring loom for my classic.
Great video. I had been having a charging issue and this video helped me determine where the issue was. Although I thought the rectifier was the cause this video helped me determine one side of the stator was not sending enough voltage. You might be surprised to find out, as I was, when I pulled the fan off an exhaust gasket fell out. I was wondering why when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago that there wasn't a gasket with the original exhaust. Mystery solved.
That was great. Thank you. That was very straight forward, to the point, video. AND with schematic! Awesome. People that make videos, watch this! This is how to make videos. No chit chat. Btw, your other videos are great too. I've learned alot from you. Very much appreciated.
Although not recommended, you can also use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut. *Proceeds to use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut* 😂 Great guide mate, thank you so much! Love the diagrams!
First of all thank you very much. This video was awesome and exactly as the trouble shooting steps would go. I changed mine to battery, charging fuse, 12v red wire on the regulator, a/c wires, then I figure scince there is no power from a/c wires, mine is probably a bad stator.
Um why are the pros talking down about this guy's way of doing his own way to troubleshoot the 50cc scooter electric. Stop hating if you know more great I'm proud of you. But please folks stop the " I'm better " ao what. The guy is showing the correct way.yes you can so this another way but just watch and listen. He's a smart guy .😊😊
I am new to scooters,so please excuse my ignorance,but, given the amount of work involed,shouldnt you check fuses First,and stator Last? Otherwise GReat tut. Thanks for helping me learn
One last question if you can. You say check coutinunity between yellow and green , white and green, but another video I seen says there shouldn’t be between ground? I get nothing from green and yellow or green and white
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters. Please help me. Regards Andree.
If the belt is riding too high, and not going all the way down, it might be too long. The excessive heat could be from the belt slipping. If you have the correct belt length, you might have a weak clutch drive spring (that's the bigger spring in the back) preventing the belt from having the right tension. I don't know if the dying is related to the CVT, but inspect all the components to make sure nothing is damaged or sticking. On some scooters, the CVT cover gasket is required to get the correct clearance. I usually throw away the gasket on my chinese scooters, but I've heard of people having problems with that.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
@@NorthSurvival yes, if your engine overheated and siezed up, it's likely the cylinder, piston, and maybe the bearings are damaged. You probably need to rebuild the engine.
@@LabCoatPaul Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline. I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm. What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why
instructive your video, thanks for the, I have a problem with the battery charge my scooter which to measure the stator ohms where you give 411ohms corresponding to the voltage of the coil, (my stator has 11 things ) My reading is zero. That I can do to correct and / or verify this because the battery is not taking charge you for your help.
When testing for continuity on each part of the stator, you're looking for a small number, between 0.5 and 2 ohms. The high voltage part will have more resistance. zero ohms means a short circuit. "0L" on the multimeter means no connection. If you get either one, you may need a new stator.
hey so can you potentially skip taking the whole stator off, and start by checking the stator/charging system the way shown in the video at 6:45? Because if you started there, you can see that the stator is good right? btw this is a really helpful video and quality, straight to the point and excellent instructions thank you
so does that mean the yellow that is at 11.9 idle and 13.8 reving engine is good or bad. The scooter will not start again I can kick start it. Thank you again for your help.
Hi, great video. I have a 2004 bws 50cc. When I do the ac test on the regulator, the white wire (charging) voltage increases with engine speed but when I test the yellow wire (lighting), the voltage increases with a little more engine speed but then drops to 11 or 10 volts the more the engine is sped up... the lighting coil seems to have a problem but we have to charge the battery every few days. I'm really confused.
If I have plenty of voltage coming to the battery which should be ruling out the regulator being at fault, but the headlight dims when using the indicators, what could that be? I've even changed the front and rear lights to led's to help reduce the current draw. The indicators are the only thing pulling the lights down when used. Thanks
GY6 150 cc engine in a Roketa go kart. First of all thank you for your video it was very helpful. I would recommend letting people know you can purchase a flywheel puller for under ten dollars. I spent almost seven dollars on cheap 6 mm bolts which failed to pull the flywheel. That is another story. I do have a question: this kart has an eight pole stator. The original was wound slightly different than the replacement. Original had continuity between yellow / white and green wires. I have an inexpensive mulity meter, with that said, it readed zero ohms between all three wires. The ignition pole had about .5 ohms. Long story short; replacement stator out of the box had similar ohm readings on ignition pole. the charging poles (Coils) had continuity between white and yellow wires but no continuity between white, yellow and green. The green and red had continuity and .5 ohms. I installed new stator got engine running and all looked well .... battery voltage started at 12.5 or so and slowly started to increase at idle ... enrichment valve started working again .... headlights were working .... after about fifteen minutes of running main fuse blew..... I replace fuse and now have nothing coming out of the charging portion of the stator .... with the engine running I disconnected the stator and took a AC voltage reading coming from the stator ... white wire .1 AC V ... yellow wire .1 ACV .... I know I will be back into the stator again ... what concerns me ... is the meter reading on this new installed stator is the same they were right of the box before I installed it. Is there any way the flywheel has lost it's magnetism? This just does not make sense, if the charging poles (coils) are still intact and you spin magnets between them they should produce voltage. Any help would be appreciated.
thank you for this video, i tested my stator and it all checked out fine, checked the wiring harness all fine but im only getting 2v ac on the white cable but getting 20v on the yellow, its a brand new stator could it be faulty?
@Paul shpakov I have a 2008 Kymco Xciting 500cc. It drains the battery. I have to keep getting it charged up. Then, it sometimes kicks the fuel pump on, and the fuel pump won't stop pumping gas. I'm trying to figure out the issue. Once I get it running, it runs fine. Some of the wires are burnt. Should I have them replaced? Other than that, it's a fine scooter.
Yes, replace the burnt wires! It sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere that causes the pump to stay on, and possibly burnt up those wires too. You need to figure out what caused that problem, and correct it.
I have a question on the main headlights of my Wildfire R5 150cc scooter. My rectifier(regulator) was bad and I replaced that. I have all signal and running lights but not the headlights. I have all new bulbs and have checked ohm reading on magneto. Is there something else I'm missing? Seems strange all the other lights seem to be working fine. What would you think is my next step.
hi paul, is it okay if the regulator's green wire is not grounded? regarding to my existing wiring, my bike previous owner was just grounded the regulator through the regulator's body (regulator's screw hole). do i need to re-wire that?
Hello, my scooter wouldn't produce spark if I have my battery connected and I have a car battery on it, but now it won't spark at all I expect the wires from the CDI to be the problem, do u have a video of how to test the CDI wires?
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
Thank you for your response so I unplugged the regulator and tested on Ac black to green and red to white it was 25.2 idle and 35.4 reving engine then I moved the red to yellow and tested again it was 11.9 idle and 13.9 with engine reve, does this mean anything is it ok or is that not good the white test is so much higher than the yellow not sure if that is normal. Thank you again for your response
The white and yellow wires are the AC output from the stator. your 25 to 35 VAC reading is good. Once that goes in to the regulator, it should convert it to 13 to 15V DC on the red wire. If you're getting good AC with the regulator unplugged, but the output is wrong when it's connected, you have a bad voltage regulator.
+Alex Trezvy On this particular scooter the headlight is connected directly to the stator and runs off AC. Some scooters use DC for the headlights. Unplug the headlight and connect a multimeter. I you get 12-16V on the DC setting, and almost nothing on AC, you have a DC headlight. If you get voltage in AC mode, then you have AC.
Hey Paul, ok so know when I go to start my scooter I hear clanking by the stater I was only hearing when first start but know I hear it start clinking when cutting off. But when running hear nothing. I do you think something is broken on the stator or the starter clutch flywheel
Hi Paul I am getting 11v between GY and 17v between GW on a brand new regulator rectifier on my honda activa. Is there something else i need to check. GR DC is 12.6 and battery is 12.6 on cold and 14.5v with engine on . Please help.
hi, I have changed the regulator, stator and rotor for brand new and still cannot see increasing voltage when reving the engine. I dont know what else I should replace. Cannot use the my KYmco aglity rs 50 2010 with lights on, because battery is not charging. when I swith the light the voltage dropped to 12,1v and lower and not going up at all when reving the engine doesnt matter if lights on or off. help. Thanks
This guy wow amazing I don't know what to say he did everything correctly maybe my regulator rectifier is bad on my moped because my battery will hold a charge and it will die after a certain period of time while the bike is on I've ran through so many batteries and replace them all and come to find out is probably my regulator rectifier that's bad cuz it's not pushing out enough output it has a lot of input not enough output
Paul Shpakov, if a voltage regulator doesn't match stator which is 49cc, causes blowing the light off because it's too powerful by a regulator that's why a regulator doesn't not have DC, but it's the only AC. For example, a regulator has merely AC, but a stator has both AC/ DC which is not match that's why it blows the light off. Is that right? Thanks
+Ravi Gupta A stator can generate only AC. It has a permanent magnet that rotates around coils. Alternating current is induced into the coils. The regulator contains rectifier diodes that convert the AC to DC. If a regulator doesn't limit the voltage, or doesn't convert to DC, you can burn out light bulbs and other electronics in the scooter.
Gotcha! However, last summer, I installed a new stator from ebay which was the top rate, I ordered it. The stator is brand named stator eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl90 generator that's which i installed it. My scooter is brand named uptown 2005 that was made from china. It's actually 49cc, and brand name is QIANJIANG.... Regulator does not have to convert to DC, though. Whar do you think about that if it does not match that? Thanks, Paul Shpakov......
The regulator needs to match what was in the scooter. This is important for the CDI. The CDI controls the ignition, and there are AC and DC CDI units. If you have a DC CDI, you must also have a DC regulator. If you get the wrong regulator, the scooter might not run. I would say try it, and take some measurements with your voltmeter to make sure everything is working properly.
+Paul Shpakov hi i ask you a few questions about a specific part of a voltage regulator. How do i order a specific voltage regulator which matches to the stator of eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl 90 generator, but i have a current voltage regulator does not have DC? That's why i need to know a specific part of a regulator before i order it. Thanks Paul
Question about possible bad battery. I took it out of 150cc scooter that had ingition and stall problems. Trickle charged it on kitchen counter. Got it from 11.74 amps to 12.25 amps through afternoon. Removed tricle charger for the night. Next morning battery dropped to 11.07 amps. Should it have dropped? (Kitchen was around 60 degrees). Thanks if you can help, or can direct me to a site that can.
Hello! A fully charged battery should be over 12.6 volts. If you've charged a battery overnight, and you're getting 11 volts, it's probably a bad battery.
ok so I changed the regulator and the test are basically the same the yellow-green an ac is 7.1 and then drops to 4.3ish when I rev the engine .so I retested it unplugged and the white/green tested 11.0 and then 12.5 when rev isn't that low also i noticed that the battery when scooter is on goes to 15.8 I thought it should not be above 15. Any ideas it's a new battery new stator and regulator.
Hi! My headlight bulbs keep burning out along with my running lights. Brakes and signal lights work fine. They are dim if I install two head lights and brighter if I install one headlight. The lights brightens up when I rev the engine than burn out. I'm going to test the regulator using a multimeter tomorrow. What do you think my problems is?
Hi thk fr the gd expl n video when charging the battery i can drive the scooter the whole day but when leaving overnight it wont start unless i charge the battery again stator new cdi ignition coil n selenoid ok any idea thk
You may have a parasitic draw on the battery. That means something is taking power when the scooter is off. With the key out, disconnect ONE of the battery terminals, and connect an ammeter in between the battery and the wire to measure how much current is going through. You should have very close to 0 electricity being used when the scooter is off. If something is taking power, go through the scooter, disconnecting electrical components, one at a time, until it stops using power. Then you've found your problem.
Thank you for the information Paul.I got a question,I got a velocity scooter with a 5 terminal regulator,I have some issues with the charging system.Only getting 13.00 volts reving the engine at 3/4 wide open throttle.I installed new stator and regulator.With regulator plugged in and testing input at yellow to green and pink to green I am only getting 8.0 ac volts.With regulator unplugged I'm getting 33 volts in yellow and 0 volts at pink.Same ac readings at stator connector(yellow and white).Is this telling me the new stator I just installed is defective?
It's possible! I had a horrible time recently trying to get a good stator for my 150cc scooter. I ordered one from eBay. It was the wrong one. I went to a local scooter store. The wiring didn't match up. They talked me into trying it. It didn't work. I ordered stator #3 from partsforscooters.com. It was the same as the scooter store one. None of them matched the GY6 wiring diagram (it's a generic diagram you can find online). 100% of the stators I bought were defective. I managed to re-wire one of the new ones, got about 13v out of it and called it good. The battery didn't die, so I chose not to care. Carefully compare each winding of your new scooter to the diagram to see if those Chinese kids put it together right.
hi. i change on my 49cc 4T new flywheel, stator, rectifier. obtain 13,3v to 15v but when turn on light voltage drop down even accelerate. please help! thanks
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
this is the first and looks like the only one decent video on the entire youtube on how to test and repair scooters electrical. thank you so much for uploading it. it was very helpful!
Without doubt one of the best scooter videos I have seen on TH-cam well done💯
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON TH-cam THAT CORECTLY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM! THANK YOU AND I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS! I AM VERY THANKFUL! PEOPLE SHOULD WATCH THIS AND SPARE US ALL THE WANTABE VIDEOS! THANKS AGAIN FOR NOT MAKING A CONFUSEING VIDEO!
It doesn't get better that than this: (1).title,content/dialog matches tutorial (2) video is very informative and professional(3).I learned alot. about presentation,plus charging systems.THANKS!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful for you.
@@LabCoatPaulvery helpful
Wow what a great video! Highlighting the relevant parts of the wiring diagram while you’re testing them is super helpful.
DEFINATELY the best explanation I have came across
great video. I have been tracking down problems on my scooter for the last couple weeks and have finally landed on electrical issues. I'm glad I found your video.
Beautifully produced and wonderfully clear tutorial on diagnosing the charging system!! Thanks!
Paul .... my father always told that knowledge is the only thing that nobody can take away from you.
Thank you for ur videos... subs and liked
What an amazing tutorial. Straight to the point and everything clear 👏 🔝 thank you!
I couldnt get my scooter started with the lights on, this will help!! Thanks a lot!!!
One of the best videos I have seen in a long time. Good show.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Very helpful for those of us who know how to pull a scooter apart, but don't know how to fix it. My 49cc 1988 Honda scooter thanks you too.
This is so well done. Thank you!
For ease, maybe check the regulator first? It seems much easier than pulling the stator
Clear and concise descriptions and troubleshooting. Really good instructions. Thank you :)
(and cool puller tip!)
Bro is that the same for Piaggio mp3 400ie
Thank you, just needed the pin out for the regulator!
I saw the schematic and the wire colors, now I can abuse that to create a wiring loom for my classic.
Great video. I had been having a charging issue and this video helped me determine where the issue was. Although I thought the rectifier was the cause this video helped me determine one side of the stator was not sending enough voltage. You might be surprised to find out, as I was, when I pulled the fan off an exhaust gasket fell out. I was wondering why when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago that there wasn't a gasket with the original exhaust. Mystery solved.
Extremely clear, detailed and useful video. Thanks for sharing
Very direct and informative, detail and simply put
That was great. Thank you. That was very straight forward, to the point, video. AND with schematic! Awesome.
People that make videos, watch this! This is how to make videos. No chit chat.
Btw, your other videos are great too. I've learned alot from you. Very much appreciated.
Awesome video! This was a big help for me when troubleshooting my scooter. Very much appreciate you taking the time to post this. Thank You!!
GREAT TUTORIAL AND TO THE POINT TEACHING PAUL!
Dude, what a great video. Very well put together. Thank You!
thanks dude even a hardhead person like me could learn how to repair the charging system in 9.39mins bigup
Although not recommended, you can also use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut.
*Proceeds to use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut* 😂
Great guide mate, thank you so much! Love the diagrams!
First of all thank you very much. This video was awesome and exactly as the trouble shooting steps would go. I changed mine to battery, charging fuse, 12v red wire on the regulator, a/c wires, then I figure scince there is no power from a/c wires, mine is probably a bad stator.
Um why are the pros talking down about this guy's way of doing his own way to troubleshoot the 50cc scooter electric. Stop hating if you know more great I'm proud of you. But please folks stop the " I'm better " ao what. The guy is showing the correct way.yes you can so this another way but just watch and listen. He's a smart guy .😊😊
Fantastic video!! Best I’ve seen man. Your time is much appreciated!!!!
I am new to scooters,so please excuse my ignorance,but, given the amount of work involed,shouldnt you check fuses First,and stator Last? Otherwise GReat tut. Thanks for helping me learn
haha, yes, fuses first! Thanks for the comment. :)
Hello !!! dude, you is right the stator is damaged changed it and go! thank you very much for your advice ...
I got it going. the pick up sensor was to far away from the Flywheel. it's running great now. thx.
Excellent! Clear and concise!👍
Excellent quality video in all respects!
Great diagnostic video. 👍
Great Video, thanks you explaining and detailing the testing process - Helped me a lot - Thank you.
Thank you buddy! Wonderful tutorial
Perfect demonstration, thanks
You are welcome!
One last question if you can. You say check coutinunity between yellow and green , white and green, but another video I seen says there shouldn’t be between ground? I get nothing from green and yellow or green and white
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill.
When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline.
Some other info that might be important.
- When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot.
- When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt.
- The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal.
- In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel.
- The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat.
- The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat.
- There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters.
Please help me.
Regards
Andree.
If the belt is riding too high, and not going all the way down, it might be too long. The excessive heat could be from the belt slipping. If you have the correct belt length, you might have a weak clutch drive spring (that's the bigger spring in the back) preventing the belt from having the right tension.
I don't know if the dying is related to the CVT, but inspect all the components to make sure nothing is damaged or sticking.
On some scooters, the CVT cover gasket is required to get the correct clearance. I usually throw away the gasket on my chinese scooters, but I've heard of people having problems with that.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again.
What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether.
Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped.
Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug.
I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
@@NorthSurvival yes, if your engine overheated and siezed up, it's likely the cylinder, piston, and maybe the bearings are damaged. You probably need to rebuild the engine.
@@LabCoatPaul Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline.
I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm.
What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why
instructive your video, thanks for the, I have a problem with the battery charge my scooter which to measure the stator ohms where you give 411ohms corresponding to the voltage of the coil, (my stator has 11 things ) My reading is zero. That I can do to correct and / or verify this because the battery is not taking charge you for your help.
When testing for continuity on each part of the stator, you're looking for a small number, between 0.5 and 2 ohms. The high voltage part will have more resistance. zero ohms means a short circuit. "0L" on the multimeter means no connection. If you get either one, you may need a new stator.
Paul Shpakov is their any other way to get fly wheel off
hey so can you potentially skip taking the whole stator off, and start by checking the stator/charging system the way shown in the video at 6:45? Because if you started there, you can see that the stator is good right? btw this is a really helpful video and quality, straight to the point and excellent instructions thank you
Yes. You can test the stator without removing it. I wanted to include as much information as possible, in case you needed to remove your stator.
Sir, it's very nice & good explained
Awesome video man. Thanks for taking the time to make it
so does that mean the yellow that is at 11.9 idle and 13.8 reving engine is good or bad. The scooter will not start again I can kick start it. Thank you again for your help.
Awesome video, outlining the circuits on the diagram along with the video is extremely useful thank you
One of the best videos I've seen on the subject. Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up ;-)
Hi, great video. I have a 2004 bws 50cc. When I do the ac test on the regulator, the white wire (charging) voltage increases with engine speed but when I test the yellow wire (lighting), the voltage increases with a little more engine speed but then drops to 11 or 10 volts the more the engine is sped up... the lighting coil seems to have a problem but we have to charge the battery every few days. I'm really confused.
If I have plenty of voltage coming to the battery which should be ruling out the regulator being at fault, but the headlight dims when using the indicators, what could that be? I've even changed the front and rear lights to led's to help reduce the current draw. The indicators are the only thing pulling the lights down when used. Thanks
You did like hour or more work before you checked the fuses?
Thanks for sharing I learnt a lot 👍
Paul. You are the man.
GY6 150 cc engine in a Roketa go kart. First of all thank you for your video it was very helpful. I would recommend letting people know you can purchase a flywheel puller for under ten dollars. I spent almost seven dollars on cheap 6 mm bolts which failed to pull the flywheel. That is another story. I do have a question: this kart has an eight pole stator. The original was wound slightly different than the replacement. Original had continuity between yellow / white and green wires. I have an inexpensive mulity meter, with that said, it readed zero ohms between all three wires. The ignition pole had about .5 ohms.
Long story short; replacement stator out of the box had similar ohm readings on ignition pole. the charging poles (Coils) had continuity between white and yellow wires but no continuity between white, yellow and green. The green and red had continuity and .5 ohms. I installed new stator got engine running and all looked well .... battery voltage started at 12.5 or so and slowly started to increase at idle ... enrichment valve started working again .... headlights were working .... after about fifteen minutes of running main fuse blew..... I replace fuse and now have nothing coming out of the charging portion of the stator .... with the engine running I disconnected the stator and took a AC voltage reading coming from the stator ... white wire .1 AC V ... yellow wire .1 ACV .... I know I will be back into the stator again ... what concerns me ... is the meter reading on this new installed stator is the same they were right of the box before I installed it. Is there any way the flywheel has lost it's magnetism? This just does not make sense, if the charging poles (coils) are still intact and you spin magnets between them they should produce voltage. Any help would be appreciated.
Excellent video. Wealth of info thank you very much. Useful af
thank you for this video, i tested my stator and it all checked out fine, checked the wiring harness all fine but im only getting 2v ac on the white cable but getting 20v on the yellow, its a brand new stator could it be faulty?
the lights are really dim on the scooter, and not getting a charge voltage from the ccu
Do you know how much current does the scooter charging system put out after the rectifier into the battery?
@Paul shpakov I have a 2008 Kymco Xciting 500cc. It drains the battery. I have to keep getting it charged up.
Then, it sometimes kicks the fuel pump on, and the fuel pump won't stop pumping gas.
I'm trying to figure out the issue. Once I get it running, it runs fine.
Some of the wires are burnt. Should I have them replaced? Other than that, it's a fine scooter.
Yes, replace the burnt wires! It sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere that causes the pump to stay on, and possibly burnt up those wires too. You need to figure out what caused that problem, and correct it.
Thanks!
Very good knowledge ✌️
Paul shpakov should I have upgraded my
regulator/rectifier if I upgraded my stator with more poles?
I have a question on the main headlights of my Wildfire R5 150cc scooter. My rectifier(regulator) was bad and I replaced that. I have all signal and running lights but not the headlights. I have all new bulbs and have checked ohm reading on magneto. Is there something else I'm missing? Seems strange all the other lights seem to be working fine. What would you think is my next step.
hi paul, is it okay if the regulator's green wire is not grounded? regarding to my existing wiring, my bike previous owner was just grounded the regulator through the regulator's body (regulator's screw hole). do i need to re-wire that?
So nicely explained, you are good man. Thanks!
Hello, my scooter wouldn't produce spark if I have my battery connected and I have a car battery on it, but now it won't spark at all I expect the wires from the CDI to be the problem, do u have a video of how to test the CDI wires?
I have 8 -9 volts to automatic choke ,has to be 12 volt there ?
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
What a well made video... 👏
This was very helpful
What if I don't have an impact wrench to remove flywheel not are their other options?
thank you for awesome video
What do i do if my high beemlight works, but my normal low beam and rear light (red) doesnt work?
This is applicable to all scooters even not chinese?
Thank you for your response so I unplugged the regulator and tested on Ac black to green and red to white it was 25.2 idle and 35.4 reving engine then I moved the red to yellow and tested again it was 11.9 idle and 13.9 with engine reve, does this mean anything is it ok or is that not good the white test is so much higher than the yellow not sure if that is normal. Thank you again for your response
The white and yellow wires are the AC output from the stator. your 25 to 35 VAC reading is good. Once that goes in to the regulator, it should convert it to 13 to 15V DC on the red wire. If you're getting good AC with the regulator unplugged, but the output is wrong when it's connected, you have a bad voltage regulator.
How much amp it generate
Hi, i have a 2 phase alternator, what voltage regulator can i put in this?The alternator have 2 yellow wires and a Red one.
You'll need to match up the connector. Do a search for your stator on www.partsforscooters.com and find the matching regulator.
My stator is showing 26ac volts when the engine is not running. Does that mean the stator is bad?
What about the head light? With this regulator, is it powered by DC or by AC directly from the stator?
+Alex Trezvy On this particular scooter the headlight is connected directly to the stator and runs off AC. Some scooters use DC for the headlights. Unplug the headlight and connect a multimeter. I you get 12-16V on the DC setting, and almost nothing on AC, you have a DC headlight. If you get voltage in AC mode, then you have AC.
Thank you very much i learned a lot from your video!
you are superrrr.thank you my friend
Do you have more videos?
Great work.
Hey Paul, ok so know when I go to start my scooter I hear clanking by the stater I was only hearing when first start but know I hear it start clinking when cutting off. But when running hear nothing. I do you think something is broken on the stator or the starter clutch flywheel
Take your transmission cover off and look inside.
Hi Paul
I am getting 11v between GY and 17v between GW on a brand new regulator rectifier on my honda activa. Is there something else i need to check. GR DC is 12.6 and battery is 12.6 on cold and 14.5v with engine on . Please help.
hi, I have changed the regulator, stator and rotor for brand new and still cannot see increasing voltage when reving the engine. I dont know what else I should replace. Cannot use the my KYmco aglity rs 50 2010 with lights on, because battery is not charging. when I swith the light the voltage dropped to 12,1v and lower and not going up at all when reving the engine doesnt matter if lights on or off. help. Thanks
Thanks for sharing excellet tutorial
Hi help which way does the stater go in
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/FCiSSYDfpMM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rQdp9wI2dYPd2bkV
and pause it at 5:15
This guy wow amazing I don't know what to say he did everything correctly maybe my regulator rectifier is bad on my moped because my battery will hold a charge and it will die after a certain period of time while the bike is on I've ran through so many batteries and replace them all and come to find out is probably my regulator rectifier that's bad cuz it's not pushing out enough output it has a lot of input not enough output
Very nice vid ! very concise and helpfull , thankyou
Paul Shpakov, if a voltage regulator doesn't match stator which is 49cc, causes blowing the light off because it's too powerful by a regulator that's why a regulator doesn't not have DC, but it's the only AC. For example, a regulator has merely AC, but a stator has both AC/ DC which is not match that's why it blows the light off. Is that right? Thanks
+Ravi Gupta A stator can generate only AC. It has a permanent magnet that rotates around coils. Alternating current is induced into the coils. The regulator contains rectifier diodes that convert the AC to DC. If a regulator doesn't limit the voltage, or doesn't convert to DC, you can burn out light bulbs and other electronics in the scooter.
Gotcha! However, last summer, I installed a new stator from ebay which was the top rate, I ordered it. The stator is brand named stator eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl90 generator that's which i installed it. My scooter is brand named uptown 2005 that was made from china. It's actually 49cc, and brand name is QIANJIANG.... Regulator does not have to convert to DC, though. Whar do you think about that if it does not match that? Thanks, Paul Shpakov......
The regulator needs to match what was in the scooter. This is important for the CDI. The CDI controls the ignition, and there are AC and DC CDI units. If you have a DC CDI, you must also have a DC regulator. If you get the wrong regulator, the scooter might not run. I would say try it, and take some measurements with your voltmeter to make sure everything is working properly.
+Paul Shpakov Thanks!
+Paul Shpakov hi i ask you a few questions about a specific part of a voltage regulator. How do i order a specific voltage regulator which matches to the stator of eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl 90 generator, but i have a current voltage regulator does not have DC? That's why i need to know a specific part of a regulator before i order it. Thanks Paul
ok thanks I ordered one let you know if it fixes problem. Thank you for all your help
I got a 150cc scooter and none of the headlights are working or the tail light
I put a brand new stator on
Question about possible bad battery. I took it out of 150cc scooter that had ingition and stall problems. Trickle charged it on kitchen counter. Got it from 11.74 amps to 12.25 amps through afternoon. Removed tricle charger for the night. Next morning battery dropped to 11.07 amps. Should it have dropped? (Kitchen was around 60 degrees). Thanks if you can help, or can direct me to a site that can.
Hello! A fully charged battery should be over 12.6 volts. If you've charged a battery overnight, and you're getting 11 volts, it's probably a bad battery.
@@LabCoatPaul Thank you.
ok so I changed the regulator and the test are basically the same the yellow-green an ac is 7.1 and then drops to 4.3ish when I rev the engine .so I retested it unplugged and the white/green tested 11.0 and then 12.5 when rev isn't that low also i noticed that the battery when scooter is on goes to 15.8 I thought it should not be above 15. Any ideas it's a new battery new stator and regulator.
Do you have to disassemble the stator to test it? Can't you do it when it's on the bike?
Yes, you can test it without taking it apart. I just wanted to show all the parts in the video.
@@LabCoatPaul ok, thank you!
Hi! My headlight bulbs keep burning out along with my running lights. Brakes and signal lights work fine. They are dim if I install two head lights and brighter if I install one headlight. The lights brightens up when I rev the engine than burn out.
I'm going to test the regulator using a multimeter tomorrow. What do you think my problems is?
It's probably that voltage regulator. Light bulbs burning out means your voltage is too high.
Excellent video thank you for your time
Hi thk fr the gd expl n video when charging the battery i can drive the scooter the whole day but when leaving overnight it wont start unless i charge the battery again stator new cdi ignition coil n selenoid ok any idea thk
You may have a parasitic draw on the battery. That means something is taking power when the scooter is off. With the key out, disconnect ONE of the battery terminals, and connect an ammeter in between the battery and the wire to measure how much current is going through. You should have very close to 0 electricity being used when the scooter is off. If something is taking power, go through the scooter, disconnecting electrical components, one at a time, until it stops using power. Then you've found your problem.
Very nice Video. Thanks
I am geting 2-3volts on the yellow and green wires to the voltage regulator whats wrong?
great video, sweet nd short...
one question do you think that regulator would work for A 49cc mini quad?
Nigga u for real lom definitely not
My startor harness turn hot when turn on the engine is normal?
Thank you for the information Paul.I got a question,I got a velocity scooter with a 5 terminal regulator,I have some issues with the charging system.Only getting 13.00 volts reving the engine at 3/4 wide open throttle.I installed new stator and regulator.With regulator plugged in and testing input at yellow to green and pink to green I am only getting 8.0 ac volts.With regulator unplugged I'm getting 33 volts in yellow and 0 volts at pink.Same ac readings at stator connector(yellow and white).Is this telling me the new stator I just installed is defective?
It's possible! I had a horrible time recently trying to get a good
stator for my 150cc scooter. I ordered one from eBay. It was the wrong
one. I went to a local scooter store. The wiring didn't match up.
They talked me into trying it. It didn't work. I ordered stator #3
from partsforscooters.com. It was the same as the scooter store one.
None of them matched the GY6 wiring diagram (it's a generic diagram you
can find online). 100% of the stators I bought were
defective. I managed to re-wire one of the new ones, got about 13v out
of it and called it good. The battery didn't die, so I chose not to
care. Carefully compare each winding of your new scooter to the diagram
to see if those Chinese kids put it together right.
Thanks for the feedback.I think I'm gonna do that (rewiring).Keep you posted.
hi. i change on my 49cc 4T new flywheel, stator, rectifier. obtain 13,3v to 15v but when turn on light voltage drop down even accelerate. please help! thanks