First the huge cherry tree, then the lightning-strike walnut, and now planes. I subscribed. That was an excellent description of the planes. I found it very helpful.
Most woodworkers I know or have seen a lot of impressive videos from say the average woodworker should start with the #4. Paul Sellers, on one of his videos, said the best over all plane is the #5 because it has the longer toe and will be easier for a beginner to get used to because that longer toe provides better perch at the beginning of the board. The #5 is commonly referred to as the Jack plane because it is the "jack of all trades" of the bench plane world. it can be used to joint, scrub (with the proper blade set-up), and smooth. the #4 isn't really long enough for use as a good accurate jointer, and the #6 is too long for an efficient smoother. Paul said that if he could only have one plane he would likely choose the #5 1/2 it is a #5 with a wider blade the width of a #7 or #8's blade. Just some information to put out there.
Stanley 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, many old beech planes, Cessna, scrub plane, router planes, 45 combo, 55 combo, many molding planes, many Japanese planes, ect. I enjoy playing with tools, and my collection is extensive. 50 years of collecting. Nice vid!
I've come full-circle in my woodworking. I started out with hand planes (my father had an old Sargent) and when my budget allowed, I "upgraded" to a small benchtop jointer and a lunchbox planer. I still frequently use the planer for thicknessing, but I'm using handplanes more often now too. Much less noise, and no need to wear a dust mask and hearing protection! I've got a Record #7 that I bought the Veritas PMV-11 blade for, and a Veritas #3 scrub plane that I use for rough thicknessing now instead of the tiny benchtop jointer. I want to get the large Veritas shoulder plane like you have, and probably the Veritas low-angle smoothing plane too (when my budget allows). I most recently got the Veritas low-angle block plane and I use that a lot. I can round-over edges with it that only need a little touching up with sandpaper, so no need to drag out the router for that job.
A very finely tuned and set #6 Trade : antique restoration. I roll my eyes when a situation forces me to pick anything else. It “Feels” the best,most natural to me.
I have a Stanley 9 1/2 block plane, Bedrock 602, Stanley #4C, & a Bailey #6.. They do just about all I ever need a plane for.. Thanks for sharing your collection of planes..
I have my Dad's old Stanley No. and his Dunlap No. and still use them. I also have some of the new V3 Wood River planes and like them as well. Great video Matt, thanks for sharing it.
I use block planes, #3, #4 and one of those tiny block planes you showed. It's interesting how people seem split between the #4 or #5 as their go to tool. We used #5 at school but I prefer the #4 or #3. My work is fitting and 2nd fix so I've always got a block plane with me. Thanks for sharing.
Great topic Matt, very informative and takes a lot of the mystery out. I'm becoming convinced that the more detailed the work we do the more specialized our tools become. Remember my plane collection......lol....
effeinc Thanks Mike! lol yes you have quite the collection :) I agree, there isn't typically a substitute for the specialty planes when you are trying to do more detailed work.
Dead on about the Lee Valley shoulder plane - I have the 'medium' size and, BY FAR this plane gets the most use of any and I wouldn't be without one! I've also found the 'bull nose' plane, also from Lee Valley, to be extremely handy. It features the removable nose which easily transforms into a chisel plane. Thanks for sharing this!
No 4, No 5, No 62 and the shoulder plane are the most used.. I just received a router plane for Christmas, however I have not set it up yet. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Matt, and have a Happy New Year!
Very informative Matt. I have a lot of interest in doing work with hand tools, but it seems daunting. This info on hand planes helps me understand much more. Thanks for the video!
Great video Matt. I have been researching for my first plane and I have been leaning towards the #4, after your review, I'm sold that the #4 is gonna be the first one I buy. Happy New Year!
I was told to get the NO 5 as a first plan and still it's my go to tool. I have the NO 7 and it does well but wish I'd had some advise about the 8. Sounds like it may have been better. A natural progression would be to show the use or sharpening of planes now. I like the series and look forward to them. It encourages me to get into the shop each day.
The Paris Attic The 8 is wider and 2" longer than the 7. I haven't used a 7 but I really like the mass of the 8. It's really easy to build momentum with it. The great thing about this series is each episode spawns new topics. I'm glad you've been liking these and I'm happy that they are encouraging!
I'm handtool about 95% of the time, so I have and use quite a few handplanes... My most used are probably my [Stanley] #3, 5, #5-1/2, #45 (combination plane), a #101 (miniature block plane), and just recently Lie Nielsen #164 and #62. I've also used my router plane quite a bit as well. I'd love to add a miniature router plane for cleaning up grooves on the edges of boards, a standard router plane is a bit large for the task.
Hi Matthew,Great videos.I use two large wooden hand planes for jointing. The blades are 2 1/2" wide and with chip breakers and give a coarse and fine finish. The bodies of the two planes are 22" long. I bought them on ebay and they are in good condition.Colin in Northern Ireland
Nice video. Glad you were able to get some more life out of some older planes. I have had pretty good luck with my old planes. I have a Stanley 4, 41/2, 5, 6, and Craftsman 7. I haven't tuned-up the 6 yet. We'll see how it works. The 7 works surprisingly well. I think that the 41/2 and 7 are my favorites
Rick Gatewood Thank you, Rick! A few people mentioned the 4 1/2. I might have to pick one up and see how I like it. Thanks for sharing your collection!
That compass plane is really cool. Oddly enough, I just uploaded a video yesterday with me complaining about fixing my block plane that does concaved curves...... unintentionally. Great advice with the old planes. Skip the cheap planes. You still would have to give them the same treatment as an old plane to make them usable, but an old Stanley or similar will end up being far superior in the end for the same price or less.
rochat lol That block plane was incredibly dished. I completely agree with you. You're much better off restoring an old one than trying to get a cheap one to perform well. Thanks!
Matthew Cremona Live and learn, right?! I just took a break from more sanding and I'm thinking about calling it quits. I might just go on the hunt for an old block plane or just bite the bullet and buy a Veritas if I can't find a suitable old one. I was actually on the hunt for an old #4 to polish up, but came across a 1931-32 Stanley Sweatheart #5 locally and scooped that up. I may switch my efforts over to that one now and buy a new blade. The old one (original blade) looks like it was sharpened on a sidewalk.
I use the No 4 and a low angle jack the most, followed by my Ohio tools No 08. As far as specialty, I use my Stanley 71 router a lot now, and I used the 78 for the first time last night. I have the small L-N shoulder plane, so it's size wasn't helping, and the 78 got the job done a lot faster. I've only had one chance to use my 113 so far, but I'm cutting some arched supports pretty soon and plan to use it on them.
Great video! I have a 1868 Stanley/Bailey #4 we picked up at a yard sale. Love it! Thinking of a nice Jack plane next. We have an old junk #4 we converted to a scrub plane. Keep the "Ask Matt" series coming! :-)
Interesting take on hand planes, like you said it depends on the work performed. You and Paul Sellers share a common idea that the No 4 is handy because of size/weight in all-around use. I guess I'm not much different with three No 4's in my tool chest but I have to confess that the low angle jack and a Veritas Jointer plane are jumping up in use for me. For some reason I like to hum Darth Vader's march when I use the Veritas Jointer...
Great information Mat. I have a Stanley 5-1/2 I use to flatten one side of the wide boards before I put it through my 20" planer and a shoulder plane by Lie Nielsen as well as a small router plane which I love to use.
Great info Matt! I have some planes from my Great Grandfather I use, Baily #5, #7 and a really long wooden body one that needs work. Also, a Stanley low angle block plane, an old wooden body one that is the same length as the #5, an assortment of moulding planes and recently purchased last year an old Stanley router plane similar to the one you have.
AdventuresInDIY That's awesome that you have some planes with some history. Also I didn't realize you had that large of a collection. You better start using them more in your videos :)
I have a few hand planes and set the blade coarser or finer in different ones. So I tend to use the one with the appropriate blade set. Most are Stanleys, but the best of these have Veritas blades. I have a wooden plane with a tapered thickness blade and no chip breaker. It is one of my best.
Funny, I was in the shop working on two little Stanley block planes I picked up at yard sales, both had broken parts but I thought I could combine them into one and I was wrong lol. Still need the palm part. That little router plane does look fragile, I would be afraid I would break it just by picking it up :) As always good stuff Matt.
woodturningjohn hahaha! better go find another parts plane :) I was surprised how strong that little plane it. It can do some serious work for being so tiny!
Love your plane collections and admire you for your knowledge at such young age. I bought Lie Nielsen #8 love it too, just made my last payment 2016, cost more than my 1st car. LOL
I have a 5, 7 and a 40 that I restored. As a beginner to hand planes I prefer the no7. I like have more reference area on the front of the plane to help get me started
I really enjoyed this video! I'm pretty fond of my number 5 and 6, and I hope to be restoring my number 7 in the next couple months. I'm very jealous of your shoulder plane. I do a lot of motise and tenon work and will definitely be adding one to my tool chest soon. I look forward to the next video!
I have 7 hand planes in my shop. I started of with one old #5 Stanely that I got at a yard sale for $10. I restored it and once I started using it I was hooked. I still have it but I mostly use my #5 Jack ,# 7 Jointer and #4 smoothing plane, A shoulder plane is on my list and will most likely be my next one to buy. I do a lot of table tops which is why my 5 and 7 get so much use. Like you I love using my jointer plane.
I use my 4 1/2, and my low angle block plane the most. Occasionally I will bust out the low angle Jack or my plow plane, but that's about it. I just got a set of spokeshaves though, so time will tell if I use those more too. Looking to get a shoulder plane someday, but for now a wide chisel works.
Great collection, I'm restoring a #4 right now and just received the stanley #78 rabbet plane. I think we will need that shoulder plane this Friday lol A
Great collection. I have a few planes and am working on the restoration of one I just got recently. The one I use the most is a #4. I do have a #5 but like you I prefer the shorter #4. I plan to get a shoulder and router plane. Those would be really useful. Thanks for sharing so much and Happy New Year.
Jim Coogan Thanks Jim! Sounds like you're off to a great start with your collection. The shoulder and router plane are super useful. They'll change the way you work. Hope 2015 is off to a good start for you!
Great video Matt! For my planes, I love my Stanley low angle jack plane, it is quite useful. It was a great find also, half price on amazon because the front knob was cracked, easily fixed and works great now.
You should have seen how badly beaten and chipped my dads #4 was. He always complained that his hand plane would gouge and dig into his projects, so I decided to check it out, sharpened the blade, properly set everything up(to my minimal knowledge), and now its just awesome to use, beautiful shavings, no gouges :) Matt, I recently, in the last month, started watching your videos and your channel, and im intrigued and jealous of everything you have. How did you get into doing all this? Learning about the tools, joinery, woodworking and whatnot, do you work for/with a company or are you on your own?
pretty incredible what a little set up can do. Glad you found me. I started woodworking a little over 7 years ago as a hobby, absorbing all the information I could and spending a lot of time in the shop practicing. I was laid off this time last year and decided to pursue making these videos for a living.
I've always wanted to use hand planes to fine-tune my work, but I haven't been able to justify new planes and I haven't had success tuning my own. Buying an already tuned plane off ebay is an idea I never considered. Thanks Matt.
Lovely collection mat I have my granddad planes too restore from a uk no7 Stanley down over I also have a spoke shave that is over 100 years old too ive never seen it sharpened but it still takes a lovely cut Happy new year too you and your family mat from the uk And too all reading my post happy new year too you all ;)
Great collection. My most used planes are Woodriver #5 and #4, then My router plane (Veritas) love that thing. I also use a low angle stanley sweatheart block plane a lot. I think I would enjoy a big plane like the #7. Oh and I also have a wood Rabbet plane that I use a lot like your shoulder plane. Great video, I had no idea that veritas made blades for old Stanley planes... that is really cool. Oh and I still haven't been able to find a good compass plane, might be good since I really suck at using a spokeshave.
Jorge Araujo Sounds like you have a pretty solid foundation. Those bigger planes are a lot of fun to use. They just glide through the cut. You can't even feel the resistance from the cut. I haven't tried a spoke shave. Hopefully the compass plane has a smaller learning curve. Thanks Jorge!
Those are an excellent set and assortment of planes! Thanks for sharing. I can't really respond as to mine because I only have a couple made in 1908. But I do use a paint scraper to smooth glue out a lot if that counts? (Haha).
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right. The blade has: STANLEY / PAT APL 1992, BUT NO SIZE NUMBER. Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look. Love your band saw.
Great job explaining your planes. It is amazing to see your hands against the planes they make the planes look so big. For me while I like the No 3 for certain smoothing, then the No 4, my No 5 is my go to plane mostly due to the size of my mitts. I have to basically palm the tote since my fingers do not fit around the small totes. As to the Irons, I have never invested in an upgrade blade since I always get good results from the originals once the plane is tunes up properly. You and I both are missing a wider smoother like a 4-1/2. If I ever make one it will be a wooden body wide blade smoother like a Coffin Body plane. Also, If I were to buy a new 4-1.2, I'd go for a 50 or 55 deg Frog which not only is a better smoother on some woods, but it moves the frog and blade away from the tote allowing me to actually hold the tote as intended. Keep up the good work.
Walter Ambrosch I have little baby hands. Sounds like we have a similar problem with handles not fitting our hands well. I think that's why I love my Bad Axe saw so much. The handle is size correctly for my hands. I think a 4 1/2 high angle would be a nice addition. I'm going to need a bigger tool cabinet :) Thanks for sharing!
So I have a collection of Stanley Bailey #4 (s), 5, a 5 1/4, 6, 7 as well as a set of bedrock #5's setup for: grub, shooting and smoother and a bedrock #8(C). I also have a Lie Nielsen #5 1/2 and a Veritas older style #4 1/2... A Veritas router plane, Lie Nielsen shoulder plane, Veritas low angle block plane, a collection of older Stanley block planes, a Lie Nielsen #48 tongue and groove plane and a Stanley #45 complete set and an antique Stanley Compass plane (just like yours)...(is that everything??) I have put Veritas PM-V11 blades and chip breaker sets in all the bedrocks and Stanleys So, what gets all the use? Roughing wood I use the bedrock #5 grub, then the Stanley Bailey #7 and then the Lie Nielsen 5 1/2... for smaller work I go to one of the Stanley #4s set up and super tuned... but the 5 1/2 is just an amazing plane and I like the extra weight... I call it planing down hill as the momentum from that weight is like skiing... The Lie Nielsen 5 1/2 stays out all the time along with a general purpose tuned Stanley #4 and a truly super tuned Stanley #4 for ultra smoothing. I rarely touch the block planes. The older Veritas 4 1/2 is not a happy experience... After attending a recent Lie Nielsen event and having hours almost alone with their planes I decided that their 4 1/2 and their 3 would be my next purchases... Their 4 1/2 is just as amazing as their 5 1/2 and would be a little easier on smaller pieces and for even smaller work, the #3 would be a nice to have... You asked... (oh, I did all the restorations...)
I really like my adjustable mouth #60-1/2 block plane, and find it to be the most commonly used plane, but will consider next the purchase of a shoulder plane.
Thanks for the information. I use the #62 stanley sweetheart, craftsman (equal to the #4 stanley) and the craftsman (equal to the Stanley #78 rabbet) in your set. recently I have been buying some other planes and have been restoring them for training purposes. Being TH-cam trained only, as I have no woodworking guru's left in the family. My neighbor got me into it and then passed away before I could get formal training from him, but left me some beautiful stanley coragated planes and some flat bottom ones from stanley, Dunlop and craftsman. I noticed that you have Wards planes. How do they compare? Also is it better to have a heavy metal sholder plane or the $10 wooden one in my collection? I believe that it was purchased from eBay from China but really not up on the plane market. It works for me, quite well in fact. it was a gift that I use alot. (Sholder planes are a wonderful thing)
Happy new Year! :) My most used planes are two #5 (one low angle) and two #7 (one straight blade for edges, one curved blade for milling) and of course #4s .i only own modern stanleys with ron hock blades and chipbreaker. except one #4 has a japanese white paper steel blade in it.(no big difference btw, if any) i don't own a #6 and #8 yet. :D
I have a Harbor Freight $9.99 No. 33 hand plane. Although pretty rough as purchased, after complete tuning with sole and sides ground square and razor sharp blade it works as well as any of my Stanleys. It's a little smaller than a Stanley No. 4.
Great Info Matthew, just now starting my collection! Completely agree with the #4! Quick question, what is it you have attached to your garage door in the background? It looks like an insulating material.
Good info, but I don't use planes but I want what does the numbers mean? 4,6,8 is that just a sizing reference. Or does the number mean something else. I really want a shoulder plane and router plane.
They're Stanley model numbers. 1-8 are bench planes and the size increases with the number. The numbers continue up from there and include block planes, a high performance set of blench planes (bedrocks), and various specialty planes. There are also fractional numbers like the 4 1/2 (a #4 that is as wide as a #5). Search for "Patrick's blood and gore" and you'll learn everything you ever wanted to know about Stanley planes. Because Stanley planes were so common, other companies adopted their numbering scheme for many of their planes. Pretty much any woodworker will know you're talking about a jack plane if you say "#5."
Hey matt. I got a couple of qs.. (1) how long have u been woodworking for? &what inspired or got u into it? As far as the planes go what do the different numbers mean (#4,#5#6etc..) ive only been woodworking for about 10 months so I have A LOT to learn and experience still. Also I just bought a #5 jack plane..A book I got a frw months back sd the #5 can be used for pretty much any type of planing end grains, jointing edges-( mostly to start smoothing down rough cut lumber) so thts why I bought it. I do have a 12inch dewalt thickness planer but I like beanching off to the hand tools here and there for tht sense of accomplishment and added character. Anyways. Hope u haf a great new yrs night and didnt lose much sleep haha;) looking fwd to see what 2015 brings. And I cant wait tobsee the end result of tht secretary!
Joe Walters Hey Joe! I've been woodworking for about 6 years now. I started while I was in college and wanted to build my wife (then girlfriend) a basket shelf. She saw one she liked from Ikea and I though I could make something better. It pretty much snowballed from there. The numbers just refer to the size of the plane. Doing some milling by hand is a great way to get some exercise! Hope you had a great new years as well! Thanks, Joe!
Joe Walters Size meaning mostly the length of the plane. The width of the plane gets bigger in steps as the number increases. For instance the #4 and #5 are the same width and take the same blade but the #5 is longer than the #4
The most common plane I use is my block plane and the reason is the only one that I have tuned up the best. As I learn more I'll get my other ones better. I have about 6 planes now
Hey #MassiveMatt, great video! But, what's the first 'soled' plane on the left of the screen? It's sitting there throughout the video but you don't mention it. Not the "scrapers", the odd looking one out of the two "odd" looking ones on the bench, the other being the convex/concave plane. I haven't checked the nearly two years of comments to see if it has been addressed. Apologies IF it has. #KeepTheChipsFlying!
I love my hand planes. I prefer Transitionals myself. My Stanley Jenny is my favorite. I do use a junky sears #3? to clean off pallet wood. Sanding pallet wood is WAY too dirty..
Michael Olson oh cool! I haven't used any transitional myself. Pallets are gross. I just broke one apart and the wood is super dirty and sandy. My poor tools...
Matthew Cremona I have really good luck with pallet wood. My Brass ice scraper video shows me using both to surface some Ribbon maple I got from a pallet. The Transitional plane is used at around 3:40
I'm having a terrible time hand planing ( #8 jointing plane) over softwood knots. The plane just rides ride over it. So, its really hard to get a flat surface. I have to work with what I've got. I've resorted to chiseling them down, but thats a pain. Any advice would be much appreciated
Could be the blade isn't sharp enough. If the edge is rounded over at all, I would think that would cause the blade to lift out of the cut when it hits hard grain like a knot.
Matthew Cremona I thought about it. I assumed if its cutting the hairs on my arm, then its sharp. But, maybe its not holding an edge for long enough. It is an older blade thats quite thin. I'm wondering if a thicker new blade would be any better? I'll try.
What kind of 8 are you using? I recently acquired an antique Ohio Tools 08, and the blades on them are intense, almost a 1/4" this at the thickest part. When I first tried it out on a scrap pine board, it didn't appreciate knots either. Dug in, skipped over, anything but planing. But it great yesterday on cherry and walnut.
I have been looking for a shoulder plane for a while, it seems like there isn't a reasonably priced alternative. even on on ebay, there seems to be nothing decent for less than $175. What is the consensus on the best value? sort of like the dewalt 735 or the toyota camry? thanks for the great content, i really look forward to your new videos
Lots of people here with small hands, how do i know? because the #4 and #5 squeeze your fingers if you have larger hands, for that reason i prefer the #4 1/2 or #5 1/2 which have bigger handles, but i still have a #4 and a #5 as well, i just dont use them very often
Matthew Cremona Not weird. We are all different. I love the number 3 for small bench jobs. I guess other might use a block plane but I like the proper handles and added weight. Conversely I find my no.4 a bit bulky for bench work. The no. 3 feels more maneuverable, more responsive, more in tune with me.
hey brotha, sorry to keep bugging ya ;-) Just trying to get a good start at my collection. So basically the same question I asked about the chisels which thank you btw, your answer really helped. What 1 or 2 planes would you recommend to start with? I'm mainly going to be doing dovetails on drawers and small boxes. Thanks for all the info my man. You're amazing ;-)
for making drawers the only plane I use is my number 4. It's great for sizing the drawer front, cleaning up the edges of the drawer parts, and flushing up the joints. The shoulder plane is going to be incredibly handy if you do any work with rabbets or if you do more dado work, the router plane would be very helpful there. Thanks!
Just started using wooden planes. Check this video: 대패 달인(투스텝) - A korean master of japanese hand pla…: th-cam.com/video/9h4t5TMwvbo/w-d-xo.html - Looks like the old times could have been.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
First the huge cherry tree, then the lightning-strike walnut, and now planes. I subscribed. That was an excellent description of the planes. I found it very helpful.
Most woodworkers I know or have seen a lot of impressive videos from say the average woodworker should start with the #4. Paul Sellers, on one of his videos, said the best over all plane is the #5 because it has the longer toe and will be easier for a beginner to get used to because that longer toe provides better perch at the beginning of the board. The #5 is commonly referred to as the Jack plane because it is the "jack of all trades" of the bench plane world. it can be used to joint, scrub (with the proper blade set-up), and smooth. the #4 isn't really long enough for use as a good accurate jointer, and the #6 is too long for an efficient smoother. Paul said that if he could only have one plane he would likely choose the #5 1/2 it is a #5 with a wider blade the width of a #7 or #8's blade. Just some information to put out there.
Thank you Thomas.
Stanley 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, many old beech planes, Cessna, scrub plane, router planes, 45 combo, 55 combo, many molding planes, many Japanese planes, ect. I enjoy playing with tools, and my collection is extensive. 50 years of collecting. Nice vid!
That itty bitty router plane is so cute! Need to get me a few of these, slippery slope of no return!
***** There will be the collector side of you urging you to buy as many as possible :)
I've come full-circle in my woodworking. I started out with hand planes (my father had an old Sargent) and when my budget allowed, I "upgraded" to a small benchtop jointer and a lunchbox planer. I still frequently use the planer for thicknessing, but I'm using handplanes more often now too. Much less noise, and no need to wear a dust mask and hearing protection! I've got a Record #7 that I bought the Veritas PMV-11 blade for, and a Veritas #3 scrub plane that I use for rough thicknessing now instead of the tiny benchtop jointer. I want to get the large Veritas shoulder plane like you have, and probably the Veritas low-angle smoothing plane too (when my budget allows). I most recently got the Veritas low-angle block plane and I use that a lot. I can round-over edges with it that only need a little touching up with sandpaper, so no need to drag out the router for that job.
I remember this video years ago. Now that I'm finally starting up a modest shop, I found this video a great help. Thanks for the advice, as always.
Awesome! Thanks Charles!
A very finely tuned and set #6
Trade : antique restoration.
I roll my eyes when a situation forces me to pick anything else.
It “Feels” the best,most natural to me.
I have a Stanley 9 1/2 block plane, Bedrock 602, Stanley #4C, & a Bailey #6..
They do just about all I ever need a plane for..
Thanks for sharing your collection of planes..
I have my Dad's old Stanley No. and his Dunlap No. and still use them. I also have some of the new V3 Wood River planes and like them as well. Great video Matt, thanks for sharing it.
I use block planes, #3, #4 and one of those tiny block planes you showed. It's interesting how people seem split between the #4 or #5 as their go to tool. We used #5 at school but I prefer the #4 or #3. My work is fitting and 2nd fix so I've always got a block plane with me.
Thanks for sharing.
I love my #4 and and cant live without the shoulder plane either. Great info Matt
Scott
Great topic Matt, very informative and takes a lot of the mystery out. I'm becoming convinced that the more detailed the work we do the more specialized our tools become. Remember my plane collection......lol....
effeinc Thanks Mike! lol yes you have quite the collection :) I agree, there isn't typically a substitute for the specialty planes when you are trying to do more detailed work.
THANX MATT, I'm self taught n find Stanley no 5 type 11 to b a true work of art n touches every project that leaves my shop
Great overview, Matthew! I have not really jumped into the world of hand planes yet and really appreciate the knowledge you've shared.
Bill Van Loo Thanks, Bill! Hopefully you'll jump in soon :)
Dead on about the Lee Valley shoulder plane - I have the 'medium' size and, BY FAR this plane gets the most use of any and I wouldn't be without one!
I've also found the 'bull nose' plane, also from Lee Valley, to be extremely handy. It features the removable nose which easily transforms into a chisel plane.
Thanks for sharing this!
No 4, No 5, No 62 and the shoulder plane are the most used.. I just received a router plane for Christmas, however I have not set it up yet. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Matt, and have a Happy New Year!
GuysWoodshop Thanks for sharing your setup, Guy! You're going to love the router plane!
Great video, I personally used a 60 1/2 block plane, a no 3 and a No 5 1/2 the most. I also grab my no 42 shoulder plane a lot too.
I have a vintage stanley block plane, I'll be hitting the garage sale circuit next year looking for a number 4! Thanks for the info Matt!
Aaron P Good luck with your number 4 search! Thanks Aaron!
Very informative Matt. I have a lot of interest in doing work with hand tools, but it seems daunting. This info on hand planes helps me understand much more. Thanks for the video!
Paul Meyette Thank Paul! Glad this helped! :)
Great video Matt. I have been researching for my first plane and I have been leaning towards the #4, after your review, I'm sold that the #4 is gonna be the first one I buy. Happy New Year!
Jan Taglianetti Thanks Jan! Hope you like the #4 when you get it :)
Great information Matt. I learned a great deal.
Nick Ferry Thanks Nick! We need to get you set up with a plane ;)
Matthew Cremona That would be sweet.
Thanks Matt this has been very helpful. Now I have a starting point and a direction to go. Thanks again.
ivan mills Thanks Ivan! I'm glad it was helpful!
You've got a great selection of planes. I am working on getting a few more myself. Have a great New Year Matt!
Thanks Linn! Be careful. It's easy to go overboard :)
I was told to get the NO 5 as a first plan and still it's my go to tool. I have the NO 7 and it does well but wish I'd had some advise about the 8. Sounds like it may have been better.
A natural progression would be to show the use or sharpening of planes now. I like the series and look forward to them. It encourages me to get into the shop each day.
The Paris Attic The 8 is wider and 2" longer than the 7. I haven't used a 7 but I really like the mass of the 8. It's really easy to build momentum with it. The great thing about this series is each episode spawns new topics. I'm glad you've been liking these and I'm happy that they are encouraging!
Excellent video, Matt. I have inherited some planes but only use the block and small shoulder plane with the work I do.
Steve Collins Thank you, Steve! Good to hear you're a hand plane user :)
I'm handtool about 95% of the time, so I have and use quite a few handplanes... My most used are probably my [Stanley] #3, 5, #5-1/2, #45 (combination plane), a #101 (miniature block plane), and just recently Lie Nielsen #164 and #62. I've also used my router plane quite a bit as well. I'd love to add a miniature router plane for cleaning up grooves on the edges of boards, a standard router plane is a bit large for the task.
Hi Matthew,Great videos.I use two large wooden hand planes for jointing. The blades are 2 1/2" wide and with chip breakers and give a coarse and fine finish. The bodies of the two planes are 22" long. I bought them on ebay and they are in good condition.Colin in Northern Ireland
Very nice collection, and great information Matt.
J.D. Ransom Thanks J.D.!
Nice video. Glad you were able to get some more life out of some older planes. I have had pretty good luck with my old planes. I have a Stanley 4, 41/2, 5, 6, and Craftsman 7.
I haven't tuned-up the 6 yet. We'll see how it works. The 7 works surprisingly well. I think that the 41/2 and 7 are my favorites
Rick Gatewood Thank you, Rick! A few people mentioned the 4 1/2. I might have to pick one up and see how I like it. Thanks for sharing your collection!
That compass plane is really cool. Oddly enough, I just uploaded a video yesterday with me complaining about fixing my block plane that does concaved curves...... unintentionally. Great advice with the old planes. Skip the cheap planes. You still would have to give them the same treatment as an old plane to make them usable, but an old Stanley or similar will end up being far superior in the end for the same price or less.
rochat lol That block plane was incredibly dished. I completely agree with you. You're much better off restoring an old one than trying to get a cheap one to perform well. Thanks!
Matthew Cremona Live and learn, right?! I just took a break from more sanding and I'm thinking about calling it quits. I might just go on the hunt for an old block plane or just bite the bullet and buy a Veritas if I can't find a suitable old one.
I was actually on the hunt for an old #4 to polish up, but came across a 1931-32 Stanley Sweatheart #5 locally and scooped that up. I may switch my efforts over to that one now and buy a new blade. The old one (original blade) looks like it was sharpened on a sidewalk.
I use the No 4 and a low angle jack the most, followed by my Ohio tools No 08. As far as specialty, I use my Stanley 71 router a lot now, and I used the 78 for the first time last night. I have the small L-N shoulder plane, so it's size wasn't helping, and the 78 got the job done a lot faster. I've only had one chance to use my 113 so far, but I'm cutting some arched supports pretty soon and plan to use it on them.
Great video! I have a 1868 Stanley/Bailey #4 we picked up at a yard sale. Love it! Thinking of a nice Jack plane next. We have an old junk #4 we converted to a scrub plane.
Keep the "Ask Matt" series coming! :-)
Leo Gallant Nice! Thanks for sharing, Leo!
Interesting take on hand planes, like you said it depends on the work performed.
You and Paul Sellers share a common idea that the No 4 is handy because of size/weight in all-around use. I guess I'm not much different with three No 4's in my tool chest but I have to confess that the low angle jack and a Veritas Jointer plane are jumping up in use for me. For some reason I like to hum Darth Vader's march when I use the Veritas Jointer...
Great information Mat. I have a Stanley 5-1/2 I use to flatten one side of the wide boards before I put it through my 20" planer and a shoulder plane by Lie Nielsen as well as a small router plane which I love to use.
Bob Egbert Thanks, Bob! Flattening wide boards before sending them through the planer is a common operation in my shop as well.
Great info Matt! I have some planes from my Great Grandfather I use, Baily #5, #7 and a really long wooden body one that needs work. Also, a Stanley low angle block plane, an old wooden body one that is the same length as the #5, an assortment of moulding planes and recently purchased last year an old Stanley router plane similar to the one you have.
AdventuresInDIY That's awesome that you have some planes with some history. Also I didn't realize you had that large of a collection. You better start using them more in your videos :)
Great video Matt, I have to say my top picks or go to planes would be my # 4 then my router plane and my shoulder plane.
The ShavingWood Workshop Thanks Tommy! Sounds like we're pretty similar.
I have a few hand planes and set the blade coarser or finer in different ones. So I tend to use the one with the appropriate blade set. Most are Stanleys, but the best of these have Veritas blades. I have a wooden plane with a tapered thickness blade and no chip breaker. It is one of my best.
Funny, I was in the shop working on two little Stanley block planes I picked up at yard sales, both had broken parts but I thought I could combine them into one and I was wrong lol. Still need the palm part. That little router plane does look fragile, I would be afraid I would break it just by picking it up :) As always good stuff Matt.
woodturningjohn hahaha! better go find another parts plane :) I was surprised how strong that little plane it. It can do some serious work for being so tiny!
Love your plane collections and admire you for your knowledge at such young age.
I bought Lie Nielsen #8 love it too, just made my last payment 2016, cost more than my 1st car. LOL
Hey Matt, I thought the upgraded blade and chip breaker was a good idea so I got looking and I can't find the chip breaker on lee valley…
Shop built I had some trouble finding them too. Here's the link: bit.ly/1758OMN
I have a 5, 7 and a 40 that I restored. As a beginner to hand planes I prefer the no7. I like have more reference area on the front of the plane to help get me started
I really enjoyed this video! I'm pretty fond of my number 5 and 6, and I hope to be restoring my number 7 in the next couple months. I'm very jealous of your shoulder plane. I do a lot of motise and tenon work and will definitely be adding one to my tool chest soon. I look forward to the next video!
Michael Howell Thank you! The shoulder plane really helped with my mortise and tenon work. I'm not sure how I got by before!
I have 7 hand planes in my shop. I started of with one old #5 Stanely that I got at a yard sale for $10. I restored it and once I started using it I was hooked. I still have it but I mostly use my #5 Jack ,# 7 Jointer and #4 smoothing plane, A shoulder plane is on my list and will most likely be my next one to buy. I do a lot of table tops which is why my 5 and 7 get so much use. Like you I love using my jointer plane.
Aubrey Millard That sounds like a great collection. The shoulder plane is great. I think you'll love it. Thanks!!
I use my 4 1/2, and my low angle block plane the most. Occasionally I will bust out the low angle Jack or my plow plane, but that's about it.
I just got a set of spokeshaves though, so time will tell if I use those more too.
Looking to get a shoulder plane someday, but for now a wide chisel works.
Great video Matt
had no idea some much went into planes, Great Video Matt
***** Thanks Sterling! This is only scratching the surface!
Great collection, I'm restoring a #4 right now and just received the stanley #78 rabbet plane. I think we will need that shoulder plane this Friday lol A
***** Thanks Dema! yeah that shoulder plane is going to come in handy :)
Great collection. I have a few planes and am working on the restoration of one I just got recently. The one I use the most is a #4. I do have a #5 but like you I prefer the shorter #4. I plan to get a shoulder and router plane. Those would be really useful. Thanks for sharing so much and Happy New Year.
Jim Coogan Thanks Jim! Sounds like you're off to a great start with your collection. The shoulder and router plane are super useful. They'll change the way you work. Hope 2015 is off to a good start for you!
Thank you for breaking this down. The hand plane rabbit hole is confusing.
Great video Matt! For my planes, I love my Stanley low angle jack plane, it is quite useful. It was a great find also, half price on amazon because the front knob was cracked, easily fixed and works great now.
Matt Williams Thanks Matt! Nice find!!
You should have seen how badly beaten and chipped my dads #4 was. He always complained that his hand plane would gouge and dig into his projects, so I decided to check it out, sharpened the blade, properly set everything up(to my minimal knowledge), and now its just awesome to use, beautiful shavings, no gouges :) Matt, I recently, in the last month, started watching your videos and your channel, and im intrigued and jealous of everything you have. How did you get into doing all this? Learning about the tools, joinery, woodworking and whatnot, do you work for/with a company or are you on your own?
pretty incredible what a little set up can do. Glad you found me. I started woodworking a little over 7 years ago as a hobby, absorbing all the information I could and spending a lot of time in the shop practicing. I was laid off this time last year and decided to pursue making these videos for a living.
Happy New Year Matt!
Very much belated 😄
I've always wanted to use hand planes to fine-tune my work, but I haven't been able to justify new planes and I haven't had success tuning my own. Buying an already tuned plane off ebay is an idea I never considered. Thanks Matt.
+Kristofer Brown hope you're able to find one that meets your needs
Lovely collection mat I have my granddad planes too restore from a uk no7 Stanley down over I also have a spoke shave that is over 100 years old too ive never seen it sharpened but it still takes a lovely cut
Happy new year too you and your family mat from the uk
And too all reading my post happy new year too you all ;)
darren brewster Thank you!! That's really cool that you have those planes to restore. I love when tools have a story. Happy new year!
Great collection. My most used planes are Woodriver #5 and #4, then My router plane (Veritas) love that thing. I also use a low angle stanley sweatheart block plane a lot. I think I would enjoy a big plane like the #7. Oh and I also have a wood Rabbet plane that I use a lot like your shoulder plane. Great video, I had no idea that veritas made blades for old Stanley planes... that is really cool. Oh and I still haven't been able to find a good compass plane, might be good since I really suck at using a spokeshave.
Jorge Araujo Sounds like you have a pretty solid foundation. Those bigger planes are a lot of fun to use. They just glide through the cut. You can't even feel the resistance from the cut. I haven't tried a spoke shave. Hopefully the compass plane has a smaller learning curve. Thanks Jorge!
Those are an excellent set and assortment of planes! Thanks for sharing. I can't really respond as to mine because I only have a couple made in 1908. But I do use a paint scraper to smooth glue out a lot if that counts? (Haha).
MRrwmac Thanks Mac! haha! sounds like a scraping plane to me!
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right.
The blade has: STANLEY / PAT APL 1992, BUT NO SIZE NUMBER.
Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look. Love your band saw.
Great job explaining your planes. It is amazing to see your hands against the planes they make the planes look so big. For me while I like the No 3 for certain smoothing, then the No 4, my No 5 is my go to plane mostly due to the size of my mitts. I have to basically palm the tote since my fingers do not fit around the small totes. As to the Irons, I have never invested in an upgrade blade since I always get good results from the originals once the plane is tunes up properly. You and I both are missing a wider smoother like a 4-1/2. If I ever make one it will be a wooden body wide blade smoother like a Coffin Body plane. Also, If I were to buy a new 4-1.2, I'd go for a 50 or 55 deg Frog which not only is a better smoother on some woods, but it moves the frog and blade away from the tote allowing me to actually hold the tote as intended. Keep up the good work.
Walter Ambrosch I have little baby hands. Sounds like we have a similar problem with handles not fitting our hands well. I think that's why I love my Bad Axe saw so much. The handle is size correctly for my hands. I think a 4 1/2 high angle would be a nice addition. I'm going to need a bigger tool cabinet :) Thanks for sharing!
I'm a hybrid wood worker but my most used is a scrub plane and between the 4 or the 5 I like them both I also use my rabbet alot
So I have a collection of Stanley Bailey #4 (s), 5, a 5 1/4, 6, 7 as well as a set of bedrock #5's setup for: grub, shooting and smoother and a bedrock #8(C). I also have a Lie Nielsen #5 1/2 and a Veritas older style #4 1/2... A Veritas router plane, Lie Nielsen shoulder plane, Veritas low angle block plane, a collection of older Stanley block planes, a Lie Nielsen #48 tongue and groove plane and a Stanley #45 complete set and an antique Stanley Compass plane (just like yours)...(is that everything??)
I have put Veritas PM-V11 blades and chip breaker sets in all the bedrocks and Stanleys
So, what gets all the use?
Roughing wood I use the bedrock #5 grub, then the Stanley Bailey #7 and then the Lie Nielsen 5 1/2... for smaller work I go to one of the Stanley #4s set up and super tuned... but the 5 1/2 is just an amazing plane and I like the extra weight... I call it planing down hill as the momentum from that weight is like skiing...
The Lie Nielsen 5 1/2 stays out all the time along with a general purpose tuned Stanley #4 and a truly super tuned Stanley #4 for ultra smoothing. I rarely touch the block planes.
The older Veritas 4 1/2 is not a happy experience...
After attending a recent Lie Nielsen event and having hours almost alone with their planes I decided that their 4 1/2 and their 3 would be my next purchases... Their 4 1/2 is just as amazing as their 5 1/2 and would be a little easier on smaller pieces and for even smaller work, the #3 would be a nice to have...
You asked... (oh, I did all the restorations...)
#4&5 are my most used.
#3 and a low angle lee nelson block / rebate plane ( that is my favorite)
Rich McNatt Nice! That rabbeting block plane is a nice one!
I really like my adjustable mouth #60-1/2 block plane, and find it to be the most commonly used plane, but will consider next the purchase of a shoulder plane.
Great video by the way Matt. Thank you!
thank you!
Thanks for the information.
I use the #62 stanley sweetheart, craftsman (equal to the #4 stanley) and the craftsman (equal to the Stanley #78 rabbet) in your set. recently I have been buying some other planes and have been restoring them for training purposes. Being TH-cam trained only, as I have no woodworking guru's left in the family. My neighbor got me into it and then passed away before I could get formal training from him, but left me some beautiful stanley coragated planes and some flat bottom ones from stanley, Dunlop and craftsman. I noticed that you have Wards planes. How do they compare?
Also is it better to have a heavy metal sholder plane or the $10 wooden one in my collection? I believe that it was purchased from eBay from China but really not up on the plane market. It works for me, quite well in fact. it was a gift that I use alot. (Sholder planes are a wonderful thing)
Happy new Year! :)
My most used planes are two #5 (one low angle) and two #7 (one straight blade for edges, one curved blade for milling) and of course #4s .i only own modern stanleys with ron hock blades and chipbreaker. except one #4 has a japanese white paper steel blade in it.(no big difference btw, if any)
i don't own a #6 and #8 yet. :D
StudioExit13 Sounds like a 6 and 8 would really round out your collection :)
A good use for the cheap plane with 2 screws (looks like a harbor freight #33) is to round the blade end and use it as a scrub plane.
I have a Harbor Freight $9.99 No. 33 hand plane. Although pretty rough as purchased, after complete tuning with sole and sides ground square and razor sharp blade it works as well as any of my Stanleys. It's a little smaller than a Stanley No. 4.
Great Info Matthew, just now starting my collection! Completely agree with the #4! Quick question, what is it you have attached to your garage door in the background? It looks like an insulating material.
William hodges Thank you! The pink stuff is rigid foam insulation.
I use no7 and no4, occasionally a little block plane for rounding edges over..
I had a 5 but it cracked, I haven't really missed it though.
Good info, but I don't use planes but I want what does the numbers mean? 4,6,8 is that just a sizing reference. Or does the number mean something else. I really want a shoulder plane and router plane.
They're Stanley model numbers. 1-8 are bench planes and the size increases with the number. The numbers continue up from there and include block planes, a high performance set of blench planes (bedrocks), and various specialty planes. There are also fractional numbers like the 4 1/2 (a #4 that is as wide as a #5).
Search for "Patrick's blood and gore" and you'll learn everything you ever wanted to know about Stanley planes.
Because Stanley planes were so common, other companies adopted their numbering scheme for many of their planes. Pretty much any woodworker will know you're talking about a jack plane if you say "#5."
Hey matt. I got a couple of qs.. (1) how long have u been woodworking for? &what inspired or got u into it? As far as the planes go what do the different numbers mean (#4,#5#6etc..) ive only been woodworking for about 10 months so I have A LOT to learn and experience still. Also I just bought a #5 jack plane..A book I got a frw months back sd the #5 can be used for pretty much any type of planing end grains, jointing edges-( mostly to start smoothing down rough cut lumber) so thts why I bought it. I do have a 12inch dewalt thickness planer but I like beanching off to the hand tools here and there for tht sense of accomplishment and added character. Anyways. Hope u haf a great new yrs night and didnt lose much sleep haha;) looking fwd to see what 2015 brings. And I cant wait tobsee the end result of tht secretary!
Joe Walters Hey Joe! I've been woodworking for about 6 years now. I started while I was in college and wanted to build my wife (then girlfriend) a basket shelf. She saw one she liked from Ikea and I though I could make something better. It pretty much snowballed from there. The numbers just refer to the size of the plane. Doing some milling by hand is a great way to get some exercise! Hope you had a great new years as well! Thanks, Joe!
Size meaning blade size/length? Sorry Im really interested in the plaanes and chisels.lol
Joe Walters Size meaning mostly the length of the plane. The width of the plane gets bigger in steps as the number increases. For instance the #4 and #5 are the same width and take the same blade but the #5 is longer than the #4
. sooo,,,a #4 is 4 inches??
Sorry I'm a little confused .lol. my #5 is 14 inches .I'll research it instead of bothering you by asking asking u all these questions.:)
The most common plane I use is my block plane and the reason is the only one that I have tuned up the best. As I learn more I'll get my other ones better. I have about 6 planes now
gabriel garcia Sounds like a pretty good collection. Hopefully you can get those other ones tuned up as well as the block plane :)
I need more practice
Hey #MassiveMatt, great video! But, what's the first 'soled' plane on the left of the screen? It's sitting there throughout the video but you don't mention it. Not the "scrapers", the odd looking one out of the two "odd" looking ones on the bench, the other being the convex/concave plane. I haven't checked the nearly two years of comments to see if it has been addressed. Apologies IF it has. #KeepTheChipsFlying!
I'm late to the party, but I'd love to see the compass plane in action!
I love my hand planes. I prefer Transitionals myself. My Stanley Jenny is my favorite. I do use a junky sears #3? to clean off pallet wood. Sanding pallet wood is WAY too dirty..
Michael Olson oh cool! I haven't used any transitional myself. Pallets are gross. I just broke one apart and the wood is super dirty and sandy. My poor tools...
Matthew Cremona I have really good luck with pallet wood. My Brass ice scraper video shows me using both to surface some Ribbon maple I got from a pallet. The Transitional plane is used at around 3:40
just started learning how to use a plane, this helped a lot . now I know I don't need all of them.
Brady McLean Glad to hear it helped! I think it's the collector in me that wants them all :)
It would of been useful to get a brief explanation of what type of applications you use the difference planes for. Thanks.
My most used plane is a 4 1/2 Stanley.
I'm having a terrible time hand planing ( #8 jointing plane) over softwood knots. The plane just rides ride over it. So, its really hard to get a flat surface. I have to work with what I've got. I've resorted to chiseling them down, but thats a pain. Any advice would be much appreciated
Could be the blade isn't sharp enough. If the edge is rounded over at all, I would think that would cause the blade to lift out of the cut when it hits hard grain like a knot.
Matthew Cremona I thought about it. I assumed if its cutting the hairs on my arm, then its sharp. But, maybe its not holding an edge for long enough. It is an older blade thats quite thin. I'm wondering if a thicker new blade would be any better? I'll try.
What kind of 8 are you using? I recently acquired an antique Ohio Tools 08, and the blades on them are intense, almost a 1/4" this at the thickest part. When I first tried it out on a scrap pine board, it didn't appreciate knots either. Dug in, skipped over, anything but planing. But it great yesterday on cherry and walnut.
The flatness of the sole could be something to take a look at. It could be banana shaped.
Try scuing the plane so the plane blade isn't hitting the knot head on
Hey Matt, is the number 8 also a jointer plane or is that a special plane all on its own?
Hey Ben, yes, the 7 and 8 are both jointer planes
I have been looking for a shoulder plane for a while, it seems like there isn't a reasonably priced alternative. even on on ebay, there seems to be nothing decent for less than $175. What is the consensus on the best value? sort of like the dewalt 735 or the toyota camry? thanks for the great content, i really look forward to your new videos
check here
www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=shoulder+plane
Lots of people here with small hands, how do i know? because the #4 and #5 squeeze your fingers if you have larger hands, for that reason i prefer the #4 1/2 or #5 1/2 which have bigger handles, but i still have a #4 and a #5 as well, i just dont use them very often
What brand of planes do you suggest for a small budget ?
6:13 That looks like the 15-buck plane from Harbor Freight. I've made that mistake, too.
I'm sure it's pretty much the same thing. I got mine at the home center.
I prefer my no. 3 over my 4. Sweet little plane.
Toshiro7777 For whatever reason I just can't get into my number 3. I like the added weight of the number 4. Maybe I'm just weird lol
Matthew Cremona
Not weird. We are all different. I love the number 3 for small bench jobs. I guess other might use a block plane but I like the proper handles and added weight. Conversely I find my no.4 a bit bulky for bench work. The no. 3 feels more maneuverable, more responsive, more in tune with me.
The tiny routerplane seems like it would be great for getting in the tight spaces in sliding dovetails
Do you notice a big difference between the A2 blade and the pm-v11 blade?
I really don't use my No 8 often enough to really test the durability. Sharpens about the same though
I use a #62 quite a bit.
John Corbett I've heard a lot of good things about the 62. Seems like a pretty popular plane these days.
How's that compass plane working out?
I like using it a lot. I actually prefer using it now over the spindle sander for cleaning up curves
Hi, can a #6 plane be used as a jointer?
Yes it can
Stanley 9 1/2 block plane every time first one I got and use most days when I'm working but I'm a site joiner/carpenter
Kyle Reece Smart Thanks for sharing, Kyle!
The only planes you REALLY need to start are a #5 1/2 and a block plane.
I use my no 4 Staley restored plane the most my second would be a no 5 stanley restored plane
Where I live we have electricity. So I use a Bosch electric plane (the blue one) 😎
hey brotha, sorry to keep bugging ya ;-) Just trying to get a good start at my collection.
So basically the same question I asked about the chisels which thank you btw, your answer really helped.
What 1 or 2 planes would you recommend to start with?
I'm mainly going to be doing dovetails on drawers and small boxes.
Thanks for all the info my man. You're amazing ;-)
+Simple DIYr oh btw, specialty planes included in that Q above. Thanks!
for making drawers the only plane I use is my number 4. It's great for sizing the drawer front, cleaning up the edges of the drawer parts, and flushing up the joints. The shoulder plane is going to be incredibly handy if you do any work with rabbets or if you do more dado work, the router plane would be very helpful there. Thanks!
Just started using wooden planes. Check this video: 대패 달인(투스텝) - A korean master of japanese hand pla…: th-cam.com/video/9h4t5TMwvbo/w-d-xo.html - Looks like the old times could have been.
And the making of a wood plane: 005 - Make a jack plane 2/3: th-cam.com/video/SOIYvc5Uu_g/w-d-xo.html
norm1124 Thanks for sharing these links. There's some crazy talent out there!
You should camber the blade on that cheapo plane and turn it into a scrub
why don't you turn that crappy plane into a scrub plane
If I ever need one I will. I've heard of many people who have converted a plane like that into a scrub.