Your videos are very interesting and insightful but I beg you, please normalize your audio so your viewers aren't blasted out of their socks every time your interstitial music plays. The loudness is way too high for these and your own recorded voice is way too low. Ideally you should normalize audio of all your shop recordings first, then normalize everything together because there's enough of a gap between the two that TH-cam probably can't fix the normalization themselves. Thanks!
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
hey Matt, I own this shoulder plane (www.dictum.com/de/dictum-hobel-baed/dictum-einhand-simshobel-sk4-eisen-703335?ftr=simshobel_5_3_100_1_12_12__) that looks deceptively similar to your block planes. I‘m not sure though if it is meant to be used like a block plane? (I don’t want to damage it) I guess part of planing a shoulder is also planing end grain, so it makes sense that you can also use it as a block plane? any advice on that?
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster. It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
The versatility of the low angle/bevel down jack is overrated. In fact, it's false information. Most professionals with years of experience with hand planes would agree with me. I could demonstrate in 5 minutes why a bevel down jack plane is a lot more versatile (esp a 5 1/2). Don't get me wrong I really enjoy your videos. I just do not agree with that one statement.
How so I have heard multiple people agree with what you are saying especially about 5 1/2 being the perfect size but have never actually heard any reasoning as to why it is? Just curious as a younger guy wanting to buy the right tools. So far I have yet to find a 5 1/2 so have settled to a no 5 and like it.
@@baileydyson2845 A #5 is the next best thing you could get. It can do everything a 5 1/2 can do for you. Check Rob Cosman's videos. He has one specifically on 5 1/2.
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it." Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5. Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it. Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose. But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one. Understanding is key, not just following advice.
Do you believe in buying the best tools you can afford? or buying decent quality tools, saving up for the premium tools and selling off the old/less premium quality tool
Nixon Wu A phrase my stepfather(who taught me woodworking) uses often is “I’m too poor to buy cheap tools.” Buy the right one the first time. Something that can be maintained for a lifetime. Doesn’t have to be expensive, could be really cheap and rusted up off eBay. He would buy hand planes like that online and put them through a special bath to remove the rust. Then you’ve got a real nice looking and functional tool that’ll last. Just make sure it’s a brand you’ve heard of and has all the pieces. Or just buy new and don’t worry about it. Either way don’t buy cheap tools, you’ll spend more replacing them than you would just getting the right one the first time.
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
Ooh, I really must object to the lack of even a mention of the virtues of an iron-bodied #3. For smaller stuff, like edges of thin drawer-box stock for example, and anything off-angle or ergonomically awkward (like overhead, vertical edges, anything planed in place rather than working on a pre-assembly part clamped to your workbench)... Any of those non-standard situations (i.e., just about any kind of work other than cabinetry), the lighter, more handle-able #3 is absolutely invaluable. Actually, if it weren't for the fact that the #4 is just SO much more commonly available on the antique market (where I'm shopping)... If I were buying a full kit brand new, I'd likely opt for a #3 and a #4-1/2 as a functional pair (heavier 4-1/2 for larger-scale bench work and final surfacing finish passes, #3 for almost everything else in the "smooth plane" purview) rather than just making do with the #4 for everything. Another way to think of it, is that the #3 (or even a #2 !) fills the gap where a guy with a #4 as his smallest bench plane, would otherwise be trying to make his block plane do heavier work than it's really good for.
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
I just used my new LN No.62 LA Jack today for the first time. It's the first quality plane I've bought for myself. Lie-Nielsen knows how to make outstanding tools, no regrets.
Bailey sizes, not Stanley. No 4 is an industry standard and the most basic plane to own and as for a block plane buy a low angle with an adjustable mouth.
Yes, I was surprised that you didn't include spokeshaves... but then, you represent the power tools generation. Paul Sellers wouldn't want to ever miss his spokeshaves :-)
Bill Hartsfield I’m sorry I'm a newbie so this might be the silly question people say there’s no such thing as. What is the difference between the spokeshave and the cabinet scraper in this video please?
@@markharris5771 the spokeshave has an actual blade similar to a block plane blade for trimming/chamfering flats/corners and the scraper is for removing very samll amount of material (shavings practically look like saw dust) on flat surfaces hence the term "cabinet scraper."
Triune Blades Thank you very much indeed for your explanation. On one of the Wood by Wright videos James explained the difference between a cabinet scraper and a card scraper to me, so I think I have all three straight in my head now.I never knew woodwork was so complicated, I thought I’d be making photograph frames that would have outshone Grandin Gibbons within a fortnight. Thanks again.
Another excellent video packed with lots of useful info. followed the links to buy the two you recommended and they went to planes that you hadn't recommended. The Low Angle Jack plane went to a normal angled Jack Plane for instance. Do you have another link to the Rider Jack please?
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool. BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie. I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight. I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up. I prefer the low angle block planes, too. I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different. Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
Great information. And I was wondering if you have tried the lie-Nielsen rabbet block plane. I’ve heard good things about it and it could possible simplify the arsenal down to just three planes with the #62, the rabbet block, and the router plane.
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator. Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host. Keep it up.
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
What PLANES do you NEED? A question I stopped asking after I ended up with over a hundred of them. If anyone's interested, you can check out what I had at 88 of them 7 years ago.th-cam.com/video/JCQjFvvye34/w-d-xo.html
Just trying to learn something here as i am not a native English speaker. You say 'WHAT planes do you need?'. Shouldn't that be 'Which planes do you need?". Or am i missing something?
I wonder: if your first plane is a low angle jack and the second should obviously be a block plane: wouldn't a rebbet block plane the most versitile? Or the most valuable addition?
@@janm5544 Indeed, You get the block plane small footprint, Low angel for end grain and rabbet edges meaning you can use it on shoulders. ticks 3 boxes in one. No good for long grain thou - will tear that up big time......
Load of crap, instead learn how to use any plane for any job. Improve your skill, rather than ‘all the gear, and no idea’. In my case no4 does anything I want.
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
A little late but a No. 1 is still considered a bench plane which is bedded with the bevel facing downwards or a low cutting angle. A block plane, even though it has a lower bedding angle, it has a higher cutting angle due to being bedded with the bevel facing up. It serves the same purpose as a low angle jack plane. So a No. 1 is not really a substitute for a block plane.
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
Matt, I have a question. Lie Nielsen now has a Low Angle Smoothing Plane? the No 164 How does that compare with the regular Lie Nielsen No 4? I am no expert, but I would prefer the extra width and weight on the 4-1/2 Thanks
I was thinking of getting one of those wide rabbet planes (basically a block plane with an open side) to do the work of both a block plane and a shoulder plane. Do you see any drawbacks in that? The only thing I might see as a problem is the lack of an adjustable throat, but like you said in a previous video if it's already pretty small, it should be okay, right?
You know what, I wish I included one of those in here. I reckon probably the most versatile block plane available. Also get yourself 2 blades, one for rabbeting with square edges and the other with a camber for all other work and you'll be laughing!
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
The world seems split between the #4 and the low angle #5 as the goto starter plane. I prefer the #4. I've got a few block planes but really only use them for carpentry and fitting. My question is, What about the bullnose?. Fantastic for rebates and drawer fitting.
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
So why not just get a helical bladed 12-13in box planer?Make some sleds and save time money and effort. Get a hand held power planer 3-4in make a jointer jig and call it a day. Seems like all the money you save and all the time you’ll get back is worth it..... or am I completely wrong?
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it! Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring. Brilliant! Many many thanks, mate!
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
Hi Matt, question regarding the low angle jack planes. Im considering to add one to my collection, however for me the Veritas is a bit too expensive. Therefore, Im currently considering the Stanley sweetheart no62. Is that also a good plane or do you recommened to go for the extra mile and buy the Veritas? Im only a beginning woodworker. Thanks and all the best.
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
Great video Matt. As for the router plane I have a Stanley no. 71, with full nickle plating, but on a granite slab I can tell that the sole isn't perfectly flat. It's not wildly out, just slight. Should I be concerned? I don't want to lap all that beautiful nickle off.
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "table saw cabinet woodworking plan" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Yiyli Yeyavid Booster - (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some great things about it and my work buddy got cool results with it.
Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: th-cam.com/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/w-d-xo.html&t
Please post links to the two must-haves from the final seconds, if that's possible.
No.
Amazing job brother
Hi matt I was pretty rude to you in a previous video. I was out of order and apologise. For your age your an impressive young man.
Stay safe
Your videos are very interesting and insightful but I beg you, please normalize your audio so your viewers aren't blasted out of their socks every time your interstitial music plays. The loudness is way too high for these and your own recorded voice is way too low. Ideally you should normalize audio of all your shop recordings first, then normalize everything together because there's enough of a gap between the two that TH-cam probably can't fix the normalization themselves. Thanks!
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
Brandon That’s what Patreon is there for. Link in the description.
"size doesn't matter, just get the one that fits your hand the best" ;)
Said the vicar to the nun
That what she said 🙋
"Its not like Pokemon, you dont have to catch them all" Ha ha!
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
You're brilliant mate thanks for the tips!
hey Matt, I own this shoulder plane (www.dictum.com/de/dictum-hobel-baed/dictum-einhand-simshobel-sk4-eisen-703335?ftr=simshobel_5_3_100_1_12_12__) that looks deceptively similar to your block planes. I‘m not sure though if it is meant to be used like a block plane? (I don’t want to damage it) I guess part of planing a shoulder is also planing end grain, so it makes sense that you can also use it as a block plane? any advice on that?
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
As a carpenter I would choose a #4, #5 and a block plane first. Then a router plane and a slim shoulder plane or an outright combination plane.
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster.
It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
If you start a band, "Flash Bastard" has got to be the name.
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
"It's not like Pokémon. You don't have to catch them all." 🤣🤣🤣
a 787 for long distance, a 737 for medium distance and a Cessna 172 for short distance. An a380 is also nice if you want to show off.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
The versatility of the low angle/bevel down jack is overrated. In fact, it's false information. Most professionals with years of experience with hand planes would agree with me. I could demonstrate in 5 minutes why a bevel down jack plane is a lot more versatile (esp a 5 1/2). Don't get me wrong I really enjoy your videos. I just do not agree with that one statement.
How so I have heard multiple people agree with what you are saying especially about 5 1/2 being the perfect size but have never actually heard any reasoning as to why it is? Just curious as a younger guy wanting to buy the right tools. So far I have yet to find a 5 1/2 so have settled to a no 5 and like it.
@@baileydyson2845 A #5 is the next best thing you could get. It can do everything a 5 1/2 can do for you. Check Rob Cosman's videos. He has one specifically on 5 1/2.
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it."
Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5.
Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it.
Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
I know these vids are old, but damn that intro music is wayyyy too loud
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
Great overview! Interesting how people have strong opinions about the low angle jack vs a 5 or 5 1/2. As a newbie, it's hard to choose.
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose.
But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one.
Understanding is key, not just following advice.
Thank you so much!! Have been trying to get a straight answer for weeks - and just just provided it!!
Quality! Glad it was helpful!
Do you believe in buying the best tools you can afford? or buying decent quality tools, saving up for the premium tools and selling off the old/less premium quality tool
Nixon Wu A phrase my stepfather(who taught me woodworking) uses often is “I’m too poor to buy cheap tools.” Buy the right one the first time. Something that can be maintained for a lifetime. Doesn’t have to be expensive, could be really cheap and rusted up off eBay. He would buy hand planes like that online and put them through a special bath to remove the rust. Then you’ve got a real nice looking and functional tool that’ll last. Just make sure it’s a brand you’ve heard of and has all the pieces. Or just buy new and don’t worry about it. Either way don’t buy cheap tools, you’ll spend more replacing them than you would just getting the right one the first time.
Perfect - just what I needed. Thank you so much for making this vid! I’m off to shave some wood! :)
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
Very excellent presentation! Well Done ! Mr Matt 👍. Love the Jack plane’s 12.5 degrees 😍
Ooh, I really must object to the lack of even a mention of the virtues of an iron-bodied #3. For smaller stuff, like edges of thin drawer-box stock for example, and anything off-angle or ergonomically awkward (like overhead, vertical edges, anything planed in place rather than working on a pre-assembly part clamped to your workbench)... Any of those non-standard situations (i.e., just about any kind of work other than cabinetry), the lighter, more handle-able #3 is absolutely invaluable.
Actually, if it weren't for the fact that the #4 is just SO much more commonly available on the antique market (where I'm shopping)... If I were buying a full kit brand new, I'd likely opt for a #3 and a #4-1/2 as a functional pair (heavier 4-1/2 for larger-scale bench work and final surfacing finish passes, #3 for almost everything else in the "smooth plane" purview) rather than just making do with the #4 for everything. Another way to think of it, is that the #3 (or even a #2 !) fills the gap where a guy with a #4 as his smallest bench plane, would otherwise be trying to make his block plane do heavier work than it's really good for.
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
I just used my new LN No.62 LA Jack today for the first time. It's the first quality plane I've bought
for myself. Lie-Nielsen knows how to make outstanding tools, no regrets.
Bailey sizes, not Stanley. No 4 is an industry standard and the most basic plane to own and as for a block plane buy a low angle with an adjustable mouth.
For the most part a No. 4 can do what a block plane can. If it is sharp.
Nice video. Agree with your choices, I would just add a SpokeShave, nothing you've shown works well on curves
Yes, I was surprised that you didn't include spokeshaves... but then, you represent the power tools generation. Paul Sellers wouldn't want to ever miss his spokeshaves :-)
Bill Hartsfield I’m sorry I'm a newbie so this might be the silly question people say there’s no such thing as. What is the difference between the spokeshave and the cabinet scraper in this video please?
@@markharris5771 the spokeshave has an actual blade similar to a block plane blade for trimming/chamfering flats/corners and the scraper is for removing very samll amount of material (shavings practically look like saw dust) on flat surfaces hence the term "cabinet scraper."
Triune Blades Thank you very much indeed for your explanation. On one of the Wood by Wright videos James explained the difference between a cabinet scraper and a card scraper to me, so I think I have all three straight in my head now.I never knew woodwork was so complicated, I thought I’d be making photograph frames that would have outshone Grandin Gibbons within a fortnight. Thanks again.
Another excellent video packed with lots of useful info. followed the links to buy the two you recommended and they went to planes that you hadn't recommended. The Low Angle Jack plane went to a normal angled Jack Plane for instance. Do you have another link to the Rider Jack please?
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
I always love the "PrEfErEnCe" videos. Yeah thanks mate. That's why I give you views for, like, your advice.
You've answered questions I've had for years! Thanks man
have you thought about a video on shop made tools? eg a router plane is very easy to make and Axminster sells blades cheap
I have! But making them super functional and pretty. Not just a blade wedged into a bit of wood! I'll have a think
I think a No. 6 is better for guitarbuilding, and is handier than a 7 or 8 for many jobs. An old No.3 can be converted to a useful scrub plane easily.
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool.
BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie.
I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight.
I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up.
I prefer the low angle block planes, too.
I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different.
Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
Great information. And I was wondering if you have tried the lie-Nielsen rabbet block plane. I’ve heard good things about it and it could possible simplify the arsenal down to just three planes with the #62, the rabbet block, and the router plane.
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator.
Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host.
Keep it up.
I quite admire your collection of tools watching your videos it’s quite amazing the amount of things you have accumulated over the years
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
What PLANES do you NEED? A question I stopped asking after I ended up with over a hundred of them. If anyone's interested, you can check out what I had at 88 of them 7 years ago.th-cam.com/video/JCQjFvvye34/w-d-xo.html
Just trying to learn something here as i am not a native English speaker. You say 'WHAT planes do you need?'. Shouldn't that be 'Which planes do you need?". Or am i missing something?
What size on the jackplane would you recommend. IM looking at the ones from lie nielsen
I wonder: if your first plane is a low angle jack and the second should obviously be a block plane: wouldn't a rebbet block plane the most versitile? Or the most valuable addition?
Or the Veritas Skew Block Plane
@@janm5544 Indeed, You get the block plane small footprint, Low angel for end grain and rabbet edges meaning you can use it on shoulders. ticks 3 boxes in one. No good for long grain thou - will tear that up big time......
The NX60 isn’t just a better tool because it’s posh and shiny; it actually is the finest LA block plane I’ve ever used. Just my 2¢
For referencing Pokémon, you get a like!
Load of crap, instead learn how to use any plane for any job. Improve your skill, rather than ‘all the gear, and no idea’. In my case no4 does anything I want.
You had me at Pokémon! 😂 10:46
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
Dont forget that the 4 1/2 blade can be interchanged with the 7
Great video! Would a Jack plane be sufficient for jointing the cuts needed to tightly glue-up your Roubo bench top, or would a #7 be needed.
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I have a sargent 14 and a Stanley no 40 1/2. They don't follow the numbers
But the low angle jack doesn't really have a much lower angle if you consider that the blade is bevel up
I found this video useful and consequentially expensive as well :)
why not just discuss wood shavings made of wood, that's what is commonly used....
I exactly started with a block plane and later bought a low angle jack from veritas. I love that wide beastly plane :)
Where can these planes be had? I would prefer to have a No 7 or 8 for joining boards please advise.
The hand router plane used to be called ‘the granny’s tooth’ by one of the joiners who taught me.
Matt, your videos are incredibly informative! Thank you so much.
02:44 No.1 - no alternative to block planes?
A little late but a No. 1 is still considered a bench plane which is bedded with the bevel facing downwards or a low cutting angle. A block plane, even though it has a lower bedding angle, it has a higher cutting angle due to being bedded with the bevel facing up. It serves the same purpose as a low angle jack plane. So a No. 1 is not really a substitute for a block plane.
What about rabbet block plane instead of simple block plane?
Wish I watched this 3 years ago, cheers Matt
At 8:30 the cabinet scraper, is that also known as a spokeshave?
What is the purpose of an adjustable mouth on a plane?
NUTS. AND. BOLTS. No messing around and I really appreciate it, Mr. Matt. Nicely done.
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
A low angle is a block plane not a bench plane really?
Matt,
I have a question.
Lie Nielsen now has a Low Angle Smoothing Plane? the No 164
How does that compare with the regular Lie Nielsen No 4?
I am no expert, but I would prefer the extra width and weight on the 4-1/2
Thanks
I was thinking of getting one of those wide rabbet planes (basically a block plane with an open side) to do the work of both a block plane and a shoulder plane. Do you see any drawbacks in that? The only thing I might see as a problem is the lack of an adjustable throat, but like you said in a previous video if it's already pretty small, it should be okay, right?
You know what, I wish I included one of those in here. I reckon probably the most versatile block plane available. Also get yourself 2 blades, one for rabbeting with square edges and the other with a camber for all other work and you'll be laughing!
That's a great idea, thanks! Looking forward to 'What PLANES do you NEED? addendum' ;)
hows it going what was that noise in the background
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
Low angle jack no 5, is that the no 62?
Would it be ok to start with one Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane nr 62 and a Veritas block plane? Or should I invest in something else? plx help.
Nice informative video! Well done 👍🏻
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
The world seems split between the #4 and the low angle #5 as the goto starter plane. I prefer the #4. I've got a few block planes but really only use them for carpentry and fitting.
My question is, What about the bullnose?. Fantastic for rebates and drawer fitting.
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
So why not just get a helical bladed 12-13in box planer?Make some sleds and save time money and effort. Get a hand held power planer 3-4in make a jointer jig and call it a day. Seems like all the money you save and all the time you’ll get back is worth it..... or am I completely wrong?
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it!
Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring.
Brilliant!
Many many thanks, mate!
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
If someone is specifically getting to guitar building, would your advice change at all?
That was helpful. Thank you
Hi Matt, question regarding the low angle jack planes. Im considering to add one to my collection, however for me the Veritas is a bit too expensive. Therefore, Im currently considering the Stanley sweetheart no62. Is that also a good plane or do you recommened to go for the extra mile and buy the Veritas? Im only a beginning woodworker. Thanks and all the best.
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
Great video Matt. As for the router plane I have a Stanley no. 71, with full nickle plating, but on a granite slab I can tell that the sole isn't perfectly flat. It's not wildly out, just slight. Should I be concerned? I don't want to lap all that beautiful nickle off.
I just discovered your videos and now I just can't stop watching. Excellent stuff. Thanks so much!
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "table saw cabinet woodworking plan" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Yiyli Yeyavid Booster - (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some great things about it and my work buddy got cool results with it.
Hi Matt.I usually not work above 60 cm.Should i go to a number 4 + block plane instead a jack?