Good video. Pretty much what I knew but I really liked how you broke it all down and your demonstration. We all ways used turtle wax in the spritzer bottle for our polished lacquers at the end after rubout etc 55 yrs at the trade. Thank you
Oh that’s a great idea, I have never heard or thought of using Turtle wax…but why not use it? I’ll check it out one of these days. 55 yrs, wow, I’m sure you know lots more things I could learn from. Thanks for watching 👍
Another truly excellent presentation. This is the best discussion of the post-finishing process I have seen. The step-by-step and side-by-side comparisons were particularly helpful. Many, many thanks.
Incredible. I just got a lot more fussy. Thank you for demonstating these methods. It's better than reading an article..for visual people to remember the details.
Hi Tom I rewatched this to see if you were adding any thing to the water to break the surface tension and it appears not. Have you ever added anything to the water to help it lubricate the surface and if so what? I've been wet sanding some on varnish between coats because it doesn't seem to load the paper as bad as dry sanding does but when I first start the water tends to bed up until I knock some of the sheen off. I use a foam sanding block and dip it into a bucket of water and if it starts to load I brush it under water and the paper comes out clean. This gets things a little bit wetter than your approach but not much. That said I wouldn't do it on MDF. Really enjoyed to video. I have longed marveled at Baldwin piano tops but never new the full procedure. Also appreciated the Meguiar's tip. That would save time and hassle. Cheers to You and the Camera Lady
How many Waterlox coats did you apply?Time between coats?Did you sand between coats?How long did you let the surface cure before doing the rub out?Thanks
I live in New Brunswick Canada and Canada is coming more and more environmentally friendly so I switch to water bass lacquer so what is your recommendation to finish the finish I can build nice furniture but if the finish doesn’t look good we’ll you know it’s always been my problem, really enjoy you program thank you Gilles.
Hi Randy, I used Waterlox original for the varnish. I like to build the varnish coats with the clearer original sheen, and only apply the satin sheen for the very last one or two coats if I desire the satin sheen look. You can also apply the Waterlox directly as the sealer coat, skipping the shellac, which with some higher figured woods can bring out more depth and chatoyance. Hope that helps! 👍😎
Great video!! Can you use (or have you tried) a automotive clay bar for leveling? Automotive type use is to remove dirt and grit before polishing. Thanks.
hey Tom, could we follow this "finishing the finish" process with Arm-R-Seal? Or is Arm R Seal the wrong finish to use with this process. Thanks again for ALL your videos, guides, and teaching.
Yes Mike, you can try it on Arm R Seal, but like I mentioned in the video, that finish contains polyurethane as part of the resin blend, making it a harder surface, less receptive to the rubbing out process, although possible. 👍
Wow amazing work. Im a new woodworker and the finishing process seems like an entire new hobby,lol. Kinda got overwhelmed with the steps. Have to rewatch the video a few times. Seems like there are several "final steps",lol.
Yesterday I watched the new vikings churn out grandfather Albert as Mr Colin’s from pride and prejudice, I mean there must have been something interesting about reading through Collins dictionary with a ruler, like an inspection; and he thought I was funny despite not wanting to put 50pence in the electric meter. Mind, the slave trade must be dwindling if they’re tapping people that died 30 odd years ago. I wasn’t initially inclined to believe that anybody would actually enjoy watching their fleece float past on a tv whilst they’re robbed of life and sanity, but there’s been so much oppression I still don’t get the psychology of hanging people on for life with the privilege of their own reflection. Obviously I’m not deemed part of the local community, because I’m deemed offensive to peoples vanity; Like I’m a hindrance to them watching themselves. And of course I have to be reminded daily that I’m a person of no importance, which is a really lovely experience along with the funny atmosphere being emitted by media waves to mark where the poni is to any passing danger looking for a toilet, and I must remember a woman’s value.
Hi, i started this process for a project that was finished using polyurethane. I can see a peeling effect when I started reaching the higher grits. I let the finish cure for over a month. Is there any way to fix this? Should I keep sanding through with a high grit like 3000 to remove them? I know in the video it said polyurethane cures in layers and I’m wondering if it’s the difference in layers that is appearing. Help!
Yes, I’m sorry to say it is likely you are seeing the layers of finish. When you say “peeling effect” the question of adherence of the varnish layer to the sealer coat below is also in question. A lot of these curing finishes recommend sanding to no finer than a certain grit between coats in order to provide enough “tooth” for the next coat to adhere properly. As I may have mentioned in the video, when rubbing out varnish finishes like these, some varnishes like Waterlox tung oil based, are more friendly to the process, and beginning with 1200 grit wet/dry to first level the finish works well. Polyurethane is a difficult varnish resin to rub out in this way due to its hardness so I have not much direct experience using polyurethane except for the few times I tried it years ago and moved toward more friendly varnishes as a result. Usually my approach when experiencing a “rub through” during the process (as I hope I mentioned during the video), is to scuff the surface again with the recommended grit paper and brush on another adequate coat. Then wait again before trying the process of rubbing out again…which is why it can be so disappointing to see a “rub through” during the process. I hope that helps a bit, all the best with the project! 👍😎
I just polished a poly surface with Rottenstone, and it definitely works better with lemon oil than with water! Still, not easy to get the shiny finish, as you said.
I have followed your African Mahogany shellac process but now find that Watco and MinWax lacquer say to not apply it over shellac. You often talk about adding lacquer over shellac. Can you please comment on why you say it’s okay but the lacquer manufacturers say it is not?
I hope I specified wax-free shellac to be safe when top coating with Lacquer or other finishes. Seal Coat is a great example. A pre-mixed blonde wax free shellac made by Zinzer and sold in many box stores. You will read right on the label it can be used under many finishes including lacquers and varnishes. Hope that helps! 👍
Great video!! I’m trying to rub out with 0000 steel wool a table top from white oak but I have some issues. I used lacquer(3 coats of sealer and 2 nitro laquer). It’s silky smooth and I love the satin look but if I touch it with my nail I have scratches, actually they are lines in higher shine. Do I do something wrong?
I'm curious why you call it a levelling step. If you see shiny (low) spots and then sand those more, you'll be making them even lower. To level it, you'd need to sand the high spots instead of the low spots...
Yes, I must not have said it well, I meant to express exactly as you described…it’s leveling because the areas around the low spots are brought down into plane. But only after enough finish or grain filler has filled in the low spots. Thanks for helping me clarify! 👍😎
I have mineral oil on hand for my finish and am nervous trying it - as I've been reading some so-so feedback on it. Have you used it on a lacquer finish?
@@JHall-jo9rm I haven't used mineral on lacquer finish but all you have to do it lacquer another board to test it and see what happens. I use mineral oil a felt sanding block and 1200 grit paper to smooth out the finish
Thanks for watching. I’ve used various oils for rubbing out, including mineral oil, but prefer water because it is thinner, cuts quickly, and I can wipe it away much faster to see where I’m at in the leveling process. But if mineral oil works better for you, maybe I have something to learn here. I will revisit it next time to see if it works as I recall. Thanks again! 👍😎
These videos are recorded as a livestream, usually with 300 - 400 people watching and texting in comments and questions along the way. So yes, there is a more real life conversational feel to it vs the usual “just the facts” tightly edited and scripted videos. If it’s not for you, no problem. But work does go into making these videos, and they are “free”, so keep that in mind when you type your sharp critiques.
If we are just being outright rude to people you may want to hurry up. You are clearly at an advanced age and your best years are long behind you. Your happiest days really. Anyhow, during that time when your friends and family were still alive one of them should have taught you manners. If you don't like it don't watch. If you are so good, make a better video.
Hi Randy, If you want to bring out the full chatoyance of a wood with lots of figure, you can omit the shellac and go right with the varnish, although you will still enjoy the chatoyance with the shellac. I always prefer to use the Waterlox original sheen to build the coats, and only move to the satin sheen for the last coat or two when a satin sheen is desired without having to rub out the finish. Hope that makes sense and is helpful.
Having watched the original live session, and this edited session, this one keeps the best of the instruction without some extraneous questions.
Thanks Mike, we are hoping it would be useful in that way! 👍
This edited version is awesome as a refresher before I finally start the “finish the finish” process today, much appreciated Tom and Kris
Our pleasure Cam…I have to give the Camera Lady all the credit for the editing! 👀😎
I love this! For us, it won't replace the live, but if we weren't able to watch live, this is a great alternative. Fantastic editing job Tom & Kris🙂
So glad you enjoyed it, the camera lady gets all the credit for the editing! 😎
Good video. Pretty much what I knew but I really liked how you broke it all down and your demonstration. We all ways used turtle wax in the spritzer bottle for our polished lacquers at the end after rubout etc
55 yrs at the trade.
Thank you
Oh that’s a great idea, I have never heard or thought of using Turtle wax…but why not use it? I’ll check it out one of these days. 55 yrs, wow, I’m sure you know lots more things I could learn from. Thanks for watching 👍
@@EpicWoodworking it works great and not terribly pricy.
Cheers
I really like the new editing format a lot
Thanks Bob, we have the Camera Lady to thank for that! 😎
Nice little trick with the scrub brush and removing the built up dots
Thanks, you must have had the experience too 😎👍
@@EpicWoodworking yes sir auto tech for the last 33 years
Very informative. Thank you for making this video. I learned a lot.
Another truly excellent presentation. This is the best discussion of the post-finishing process I have seen. The step-by-step and side-by-side comparisons were particularly helpful. Many, many thanks.
Thanks Poppa, I enjoyed making it, thanks for watching! 👍😎
Incredible. I just got a lot more fussy. Thank you for demonstating these methods. It's better than reading an article..for visual people to remember the details.
Glad you enjoyed it! 👍
Great demonstration! Thank you😊
Love your videos and this was really excellent! You are a great teacher
Thank you so much Carl, you made my day! So glad you enjoyed it too. 👍😎
Hi Tom I rewatched this to see if you were adding any thing to the water to break the surface tension and it appears not. Have you ever added anything to the water to help it lubricate the surface and if so what?
I've been wet sanding some on varnish between coats because it doesn't seem to load the paper as bad as dry sanding does but when I first start the water tends to bed up until I knock some of the sheen off. I use a foam sanding block and dip it into a bucket of water and if it starts to load I brush it under water and the paper comes out clean. This gets things a little bit wetter than your approach but not much. That said I wouldn't do it on MDF.
Really enjoyed to video. I have longed marveled at Baldwin piano tops but never new the full procedure. Also appreciated the Meguiar's tip. That would save time and hassle.
Cheers to You and the Camera Lady
Outstanding Video Thank you both very much.
How many Waterlox coats did you apply?Time between coats?Did you sand between coats?How long did you let the surface cure before doing the rub out?Thanks
I live in New Brunswick Canada and Canada is coming more and more environmentally friendly so I switch to water bass lacquer so what is your recommendation to finish the finish I can build nice furniture but if the finish doesn’t look good we’ll you know it’s always been my problem, really enjoy you program thank you Gilles.
Can shellac be polished to a mirror finish? Or do I have to add a layer of lacquer on top of the shellac?
Great presentation, I don’t like steel wool often times the tiny metal hairs gets everywhere on the finish
Tom, what is the “varnish” that you used after the shellac and Waterlux? Also, which Waterlux product…the original finish, sealer/finish, etc.?
Hi Randy,
I used Waterlox original for the varnish. I like to build the varnish coats with the clearer original sheen, and only apply the satin sheen for the very last one or two coats if I desire the satin sheen look. You can also apply the Waterlox directly as the sealer coat, skipping the shellac, which with some higher figured woods can bring out more depth and chatoyance. Hope that helps! 👍😎
Great video!! Can you use (or have you tried) a automotive clay bar for leveling? Automotive type use is to remove dirt and grit before polishing. Thanks.
hey Tom, could we follow this "finishing the finish" process with Arm-R-Seal? Or is Arm R Seal the wrong finish to use with this process. Thanks again for ALL your videos, guides, and teaching.
Yes Mike, you can try it on Arm R Seal, but like I mentioned in the video, that finish contains polyurethane as part of the resin blend, making it a harder surface, less receptive to the rubbing out process, although possible. 👍
thank you . do you throw the foam pads in the washer ? then let em air dry ?
Wow amazing work. Im a new woodworker and the finishing process seems like an entire new hobby,lol. Kinda got overwhelmed with the steps. Have to rewatch the video a few times. Seems like there are several "final steps",lol.
Yesterday I watched the new vikings churn out grandfather Albert as Mr Colin’s from pride and prejudice, I mean there must have been something interesting about reading through Collins dictionary with a ruler, like an inspection; and he thought I was funny despite not wanting to put 50pence in the electric meter.
Mind, the slave trade must be dwindling if they’re tapping people that died 30 odd years ago. I wasn’t initially inclined to believe that anybody would actually enjoy watching their fleece float past on a tv whilst they’re robbed of life and sanity, but there’s been so much oppression I still don’t get the psychology of hanging people on for life with the privilege of their own reflection.
Obviously I’m not deemed part of the local community, because I’m deemed offensive to peoples vanity; Like I’m a hindrance to them watching themselves. And of course I have to be reminded daily that I’m a person of no importance, which is a really lovely experience along with the funny atmosphere being emitted by media waves to mark where the poni is to any passing danger looking for a toilet, and I must remember a woman’s value.
@@lucyhanks500 can you elaborate on the part about media waves being emitted? And what's the reference to the poni?
Hi, i started this process for a project that was finished using polyurethane. I can see a peeling effect when I started reaching the higher grits. I let the finish cure for over a month. Is there any way to fix this? Should I keep sanding through with a high grit like 3000 to remove them? I know in the video it said polyurethane cures in layers and I’m wondering if it’s the difference in layers that is appearing. Help!
Yes, I’m sorry to say it is likely you are seeing the layers of finish. When you say “peeling effect” the question of adherence of the varnish layer to the sealer coat below is also in question. A lot of these curing finishes recommend sanding to no finer than a certain grit between coats in order to provide enough “tooth” for the next coat to adhere properly.
As I may have mentioned in the video, when rubbing out varnish finishes like these, some varnishes like Waterlox tung oil based, are more friendly to the process, and beginning with 1200 grit wet/dry to first level the finish works well. Polyurethane is a difficult varnish resin to rub out in this way due to its hardness so I have not much direct experience using polyurethane except for the few times I tried it years ago and moved toward more friendly varnishes as a result.
Usually my approach when experiencing a “rub through” during the process (as I hope I mentioned during the video), is to scuff the surface again with the recommended grit paper and brush on another adequate coat. Then wait again before trying the process of rubbing out again…which is why it can be so disappointing to see a “rub through” during the process.
I hope that helps a bit, all the best with the project! 👍😎
I just polished a poly surface with Rottenstone, and it definitely works better with lemon oil than with water! Still, not easy to get the shiny finish, as you said.
I like this guy.
What is a varnish? Is that a shellac?
I have followed your African Mahogany shellac process but now find that Watco and MinWax lacquer say to not apply it over shellac. You often talk about adding lacquer over shellac. Can you please comment on why you say it’s okay but the lacquer manufacturers say it is not?
I hope I specified wax-free shellac to be safe when top coating with Lacquer or other finishes. Seal Coat is a great example. A pre-mixed blonde wax free shellac made by Zinzer and sold in many box stores. You will read right on the label it can be used under many finishes including lacquers and varnishes. Hope that helps! 👍
Great video!! I’m trying to rub out with 0000 steel wool a table top from white oak but I have some issues. I used lacquer(3 coats of sealer and 2 nitro laquer). It’s silky smooth and I love the satin look but if I touch it with my nail I have scratches, actually they are lines in higher shine. Do I do something wrong?
I'm curious why you call it a levelling step. If you see shiny (low) spots and then sand those more, you'll be making them even lower. To level it, you'd need to sand the high spots instead of the low spots...
Yes, I must not have said it well, I meant to express exactly as you described…it’s leveling because the areas around the low spots are brought down into plane. But only after enough finish or grain filler has filled in the low spots. Thanks for helping me clarify! 👍😎
You're kidding, right? Of course he's sanding the high spots.
Mdf? Why? After all that work! Use solid walnut or maple.
Its sunburst veneered top. MDF is a stable flat substrate, ideal as core material for this type of veneered top. 👍
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice! Thanks for sharing. Finishing is not my favorite part.
Pumice?
Purchase at autozone auto polishing cream.
Ok you cover it later.
Yep ...I've used the polisher also.
use mineral oil for sandiing NOT water.
I have mineral oil on hand for my finish and am nervous trying it - as I've been reading some so-so feedback on it. Have you used it on a lacquer finish?
@@JHall-jo9rm I haven't used mineral on lacquer finish but all you have to do it lacquer another board to test it and see what happens. I use mineral oil a felt sanding block and 1200 grit paper to smooth out the finish
Thanks for watching. I’ve used various oils for rubbing out, including mineral oil, but prefer water because it is thinner, cuts quickly, and I can wipe it away much faster to see where I’m at in the leveling process. But if mineral oil works better for you, maybe I have something to learn here. I will revisit it next time to see if it works as I recall. Thanks again! 👍😎
Tom's vocal is way too low. Please Normalize his track to -1db.
Thanks Richard, we’re addressing it! 👍
God, you talk so much without getting to the real work
These videos are recorded as a livestream, usually with 300 - 400 people watching and texting in comments and questions along the way. So yes, there is a more real life conversational feel to it vs the usual “just the facts” tightly edited and scripted videos. If it’s not for you, no problem. But work does go into making these videos, and they are “free”, so keep that in mind when you type your sharp critiques.
If we are just being outright rude to people you may want to hurry up. You are clearly at an advanced age and your best years are long behind you. Your happiest days really. Anyhow, during that time when your friends and family were still alive one of them should have taught you manners. If you don't like it don't watch. If you are so good, make a better video.
I didn’t even know that Christopher Walken was into woodworking.
At 7:41 Christopher Walken’s dog cocked his head in confusion.
Dumbest ass shit I’ve ever heard.
Too long winded I'd forgotten half way through what the beginning was about
Sorry it was too slow for you. This was recorded as a livestream so not the tighter “just the facts” video you’re used to.
Tom, what is the “varnish” that you used after the shellac and Waterlux? Also, which Waterlux product…the original finish, sealer/finish, etc.?
Hi Randy,
If you want to bring out the full chatoyance of a wood with lots of figure, you can omit the shellac and go right with the varnish, although you will still enjoy the chatoyance with the shellac. I always prefer to use the Waterlox original sheen to build the coats, and only move to the satin sheen for the last coat or two when a satin sheen is desired without having to rub out the finish. Hope that makes sense and is helpful.