I'm totally sold on this channel. These are my favorite videos. Dirty jokes, WoW shirts, and professionally produced DIY knowledge all without any social awkwardness or hostile behavior. Good job Sir..... Good job.
That bookmatched top is so beautiful. This is why I love woodworking. The art that I can hold up at the end of a project and say, "I made this." Makes it all worth it.
You do nice work. I am a carpenter and have been building homes for 20+yrs but now I'm getting into furniture and cabinet now. I am just about to finish a giant ottoman tray someone asked me to make and I'm about to finish it this week and this video just popped up
ok for those who don't know, the term "Rubbing Out" is a common auto body repair term on the painting and detailing side of the repair process. it means exactly the same thing as what is displayed here in this video to "Rub Out" surface imperfections. Well done Marc :D A great job as always.
Nice video, i recently bought some whisky glasses presented in a nice wooden box which was already nicely dyed, and then it hit me....use the box for another purpose, convert it into an 8 place Watch Box !, great project, i re-lined the inside with felt,changed the hinges and purchased the watch sponges, your video helped me complete the polishing to a mirror shine, thanks !.
A friend of mine made my husband and me a 12" round Doctor Who clock for Christmas this year (wood burning). It's absolutely beautiful and I decided I needed to find a way to put a finish on it so it wouldn't get messed up in any future moves. So I take to the internet to find my answer. And I stumble upon this channel. Let me just tell you.. the fact that you're wearing a Warlords shirt in this video has me completely sold. Nothing but WoW nerds over here! Even the friend that made the clock and her husband play. Thank you for the tutorial!
Thanks for the tips. I'm in the process of refinishing a maple snare drum and want a professional high gloss finish. This looks to be the path to my goal!
I watched this years ago. After screwing up a lot of finishes since then this makes more sense. It takes a lot of mistakes for me to really understand that finishing takes patience. Drying is not the same as curing. Thanks TWW
I'm getting into woodworking and I love your channel. By far the most entertaining and educational woodworking tutorials. I found this video informative, but based on my custom auto refinishing experience, I'd go easier with the sand paper. 320 is very aggressive... too aggressive for finish work. I'd flatten with 600 - 800 grit, wet sanding and being very careful with the edges. Something the size of a humidor can be flattened very quickly wet sanding with 800 and then you won't have to deal with deep sanding scratches and can remove less material in the subsequent steps. From there I'd continue with 1500 thru 2000 grit BY HAND until I had an even, satin finish with no detectable sanding marks. I'd only use the power sander with the rubbing compounds. Emphasis at all stages needs to be put on being careful not to burn through the edges! I can guarantee 500 grit and a power sander will blast through an edge for all but the most experienced and careful refinishers. You obviously got a great result with your method, I just think it would be trouble for a more inexperienced hand and my suggestions would be safer. I know the pain of "going too far" oh too well. Just my 2 cents.
yes you make a valid point John C. but with 11 coats of clear on the piece there is plenty of room for any mistakes. Being mindful of the edges nearly anyone can do this. especially using a standard orbital sander that has only a 2 to 3 mm orbit. You will have great control and achieve a great result or you can do it all by hand and still get the same result. it just takes far longer and much more work to achieve.
Finally that joke was given the time and attention it deserves. LOL I want to re finish an old 1920's piano so I'm trying to watch all your videos. You do a great job at this. thank you
Thanks for the post! I am ready to start buffing and so far the humidor is coming out great!! I have some slip feathers and there was tearout that didn't get totally filled, but otherwise, no visible flaws - and I haven't seen a doctor yet.
I use to do it this way years back. Switched to 2K Automotive clearcoat and can apply all coats needed one day then cut and polish the next day. Now finishing projects only take 2 days.
What I wouldn't give to be able to afford those beautifully grained woods...and purpleheart...and I'm in love with burled maple and quilted maple and bird's eye maple...and zebrawood and all of those other exotic woods they don't even sell where I live. I love your inlay videos and, well, really, all of your woodworking videos. Thanks for making them. You make stuff really look nice.
Yes he did a beautiful finish on a small box or surface. All the processes were done properly and in order. A couple things if you don't get all those 320 grit scratches with the 500 grit (600 is more common or available). No matter how much rubbing you do they will show in the final polish. The same goes for each step or grit. On a small piece with small surfaces this is easily accomplished. Like most of these videos they are done on small flat projects or sample boards. It is not that simple on a dining table tops, pianos or large wall panels (30" x 60") or non flat surfaces like serpentine surfaces or surfaces that include raised panels, recessed panels or mouldings. Those mentioned are a much higher degree of difficulty, not impossible, but no comparison to what was shown.
Thanks, very informative, and explains why my lacquer doesn't yet look as shiny as expected. Just wish I'd found this video re the pore filling, before I sprayed the lacquer on.
I have been putting polyurethane over dewed shellac for years. Here's why: I first use Watco danish oil (natural color) applying it let it rest for an hour, then wiping off; then I do it again. I seal with shellac, then finish with poly.
I would like to try this just to see how much I can make a mess of it. But I was wondering if I can use this method and apply lacquer onto of a danish oil finish? Wonderful job and really enjoy your informative videos.
Thanks for a great video. At the end of the smoothing stage (2000 grit), I've got white dust (probably lacquer + soapy water) embedded in the wood grain (clearly pore filler didn't work as well as expected - on padauk). Any ideas on how to remove this? Mineral spirits make it look great temporarily, but white shows right back up after it dries. Any advice appreciated!
How i make high gloss finish... it does not matter if its colour or lackquer You dont need pore filler. There are lackquers for open pores and closed ones. Use lackquer for closed pores 1.Sand with 180 and apply basic layer 2 times. You need to sand between layers with 320. Do your best here! 2.Sand basic layer first with 320 and later with 800. With 800 try to remove 320 grid lines. Try not to oversand! If you do you need another coat of basic layer. 3.Apply final coat of colour or lackquer and sand with 800 and then spray one more coat. You can do it more times...(sand it between coats) but its not needed to add more material if you ask me. 4. wait to cure 3-5 days depends of material 5. sand with 1200 grid > 2000 6. Polish with 5000 paste. Most of work is here. Important tip: Dont sand with hand! Use disksander on flat areas! www.dropbox.com/s/26jsedl1s8o27s1/DSC_0252.jpg
Can you believe I'm 36 years old and have never rubbed out. I want to make a 4 foot wide record player stand with vinyl storage underneath. Nothing fancy, just a rectangular box probably made out of 2x4s and metal legs. Where i do want to go all out on is the stain, clear coat & polish.
I probably should have sanded between coats of poly, but I didn't. What I have now is a surface that is smooth in most areas but has pock marks in spots as well, and no matter how hard i try with the 320 girt wetordry paper, they remain. Thoughts?
You earned a subscription, sir! Incidentally, I have a porter cable orbital buffer. (meant for 2 handed use on cars/boats) could I use sanding pads with it for projects like these? I build drums as a hobby and need to cut back on the time it takes to sand by hand!
I know that puns are considered the lowest form of humor but I have discovered (and amassed data) that it requires the highest form of intelligence to create 😊 - great job on the polish too.
In the video you mentioned that you sprayed something like 10 coats of laquer. Do you have to sand in between the coats at all? or do you spray a cota allow it to then and then foloowed by more coats without sanding?
Hey Marc. Thanks for all the info you provide online. Cant get enough. So, what would happen if you didn't fill the wood grain with wood filler? Would the finish not seep in and fill the poars? Thanks.
If you're spraying, you're going to have overspray. You can make changes to the gun's settings to cut down on overspray but you'll never get rid of it completely.
Great work! Just a info on humidor build, its not advisable to put any king of sealer on a humidor as it gets pretty moist inside :) and for longevity its better you leave the wood to breathe. If you live in a climate where the humidity outside is same or similar as the one inside the humidor than you can do whatever you want otherwise its a no no. Been there done that kind of advice...
What I really wish people showed is how they do the narrow sides. I always struggle not to round over thing sizes with all of this sanding and buffing. Heck, even in the initial sanding when I am using a wood block or a foam one for the light passes. No one ever shows that part. Everyone just used a ROS on large, flat surfaces.
Do you think I could use this technique for Waterlox? I've read too many complaints about the satin finish, so I'm only using original. Maybe put on an extra coat, then wait 4 weeks? Also, do you need to sand with the grain, or does it not matter at this point because it's on top of the varnish? And can I use my palm sander- the 1/4 sheet kind? TYSM!
How durable is lacquer, and is it water resistant? I want to build a telescope with this finishing process, but it would be subjected to the occasional freezing temps, frost, and dewy conditions.
Great Video. I have a high gloss wood speaker (with a good amount of built up finish) which has some very slight scratches from cleaning. I bought these speakers used and would really like to clean up the top of the speaker. Would the final buffing stage be a reasonable approach to removing very minor cleaning scratches? Thanks in advance Brian
Good morning Sir. I will appreciate if you tell me how can I remove policrylic sealer from a closet shelves and cabinets, so I can paint it white. Thank you in advance!!!! The shelves and cabinets were stain and then sealed with policrylic !!!
I am re-veneering the wood in my 64 Jaguar in Burl Walnut, what would you suggest as a poor filler, and where can I get the polish you use in your video. I am after a HIGH GLOSS finishThanksGary
Hi, I have a question about a MCM desk that I have. Beautiful piece but has very cheap looking wood grain thick laminate (glossy) top. Is there a way that I can get the gloss off and still have the top look decent without painting etc.? thanks
thanks for sharing, hopefully one day i'll have a project i can use this on, this is also pretty much the same thing you do on other painted surfaces, like a car
Hello, can I ask is it possible to use a high gloss finish on inlay? Just wondering because different woods have different characteristics, so may need different degrees of polishing. Thanks
what about using 3m medium compund and do glazed mirror finish ,,,,,, sorry to ask im looking for something to polish with car polish that I have ,,,, nice job demo,,, thanks
Absolutely. On guitars with lacquer finish, I wet sand to 1000-1200. Then I use 3M Rubbing Compound (on a foam pad attached to drill). After that I use 3M Finesse-it Finishing Compound, again on the drill with a foam pad (not the same pad as the rubbing compound). If you want, you can then hand apply a pure glaze if you have it.
Marc, Here's a little tip. Instead of using a putty knife to apply grain filler try using an old credit card, ATM card etc,etc. It won't scratch the wood like a putty knife can. I build, repair and customize guitars and when it comes to grain filling that's all i use.
i have a question regarding the soapy water you used to lubricate the 320 grit sandpaper. What type of soap are you using? i.e. Dawn. also what is the ratio of soap to water? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great work on the videos! Preston
Having watched this after I have already applied some coats of finish using two coats of Minwax Spray Fast Drying Clear Gloss Poly and two coats of General Finish High Gloss. Is it possible to rub this out? What steps are needed to achieve a high shine? More coats of finish, then buff out with a fine polishing compound? Could I use any type of automotive polishing compound such as Griots? Thank you
Im just wondering if anyone can give me some advice. Im looking at creating my own computer desk, but I want a solid white high gloss finish. What kind of wood/material would I need, which paint would I use, and now would I get a high gloss finish. I was considering just spray painting it white and sanding heavily to smooth it out, and then spraying a clear coat over it again, and again sand with a 240-500-1500-2000 grit and then finish with a polish. Would this be the best method? I've not really worked with wood for about 5-6 years, and back then that was in school
Love all of your videos! Thank you. Question: Can this same technique be used with a poly-urethane finish? I just finished a nice little keepsake box and applied 3 coats of poly-urethane. Now I want shine and polish it.
@@patrickmagno2677 I think it would be difficult. Lacquer melts into the previous coat and creates one solid finish. Poly doesn’t do this and is multiple layers. So you can accidentally buff through a layer and it creates witness lines.
It might not yield great results. Outdoor finishes are usually more flexible by design. Buffing works best on hard surfaces. Think of it in terms of candy. Which one is likely to produce a high shine, hard candy or taffy? So I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's probably going to be a lot trickier and you might not get the level of clarity you want in the final appearance.
I've watched this before, but I guess I'd be curious for a before and after. What does 10 coats of lacquer look like vs what the final product looks like? I'm sure the feel is a major difference, but I'd love to see that.
I want to check on the price of these two products your recommend ( IP 2000 and SF 4000). once I came to I realized that my eye were not deceiving me. On amazon.ca these list for approx $120. So that is out of the question. Do you have any alternatives you would recommend.?
I have a guitar with a high gloss finish and would like it more of a satin. Will this work for that ? And do I stop after 2000 sanding or after the IP 2000
+Doc Miller I haven't done much with matte or satin via rubbing out so I'd have to experiment a bit to see which grit gives the look I'm going for. 2000 might even be a little high for satin. I'd first stop at 1000 or so and see how that goes. You're working up through the grits so ultimately, you can just stop once you have the look you want.
This question is irrelevant to the video but that doesn't matter, I'm finishing building a bookcase made out of knotty pine and I was just wondering, if you were making the bookcase, what would use to stain it? Thanks
Nothing. If it were my building a bookcase out of pine I'd specifically avoid staining. But if I really HAD to stain it, I'd use Charles Neil's Blotch Control followed by a General Finishes water-based dye.
I think you could have gotten the same effect as the filler if you just put a coat of shellac and sanded it down well. Then sprayed the lacquer, sanding in between coats. I've noticed this fills open grain woods well. I've made a humidor that looks very similar actually.
You can get the same effect but with a lot more work and a lot more waste. Filler gets you there in one step, two at the most. And the filler won't shrink over time, which is something that can happen if you fill with finish. I know many folks who like the finish-fill method but I truly prefer a dedicated filler step.
I'm totally sold on this channel. These are my favorite videos. Dirty jokes, WoW shirts, and professionally produced DIY knowledge all without any social awkwardness or hostile behavior. Good job Sir..... Good job.
Thank you sir!
Woodworking with The Wood Whisperer JamesMurphy i completely agree with and support this comment
+The Penis Whisperer
im kidding, i subbed btw great vids bud!
+JamesMurphy he just needs some diablo and starcraft shirts and he's all set but something tells me he probably owns them. lol.
That bookmatched top is so beautiful. This is why I love woodworking. The art that I can hold up at the end of a project and say, "I made this." Makes it all worth it.
You do nice work. I am a carpenter and have been building homes for 20+yrs but now I'm getting into furniture and cabinet now. I am just about to finish a giant ottoman tray someone asked me to make and I'm about to finish it this week and this video just popped up
ok for those who don't know, the term "Rubbing Out" is a common auto body repair term on the painting and detailing side of the repair process. it means exactly the same thing as what is displayed here in this video to "Rub Out" surface imperfections. Well done Marc :D A great job as always.
of course! what else could that phrase possibly mean.
Nice video, i recently bought some whisky glasses presented in a nice wooden box which was already nicely dyed, and then it hit me....use the box for another purpose, convert it into an 8 place Watch Box !, great project, i re-lined the inside with felt,changed the hinges and purchased the watch sponges, your video helped me complete the polishing to a mirror shine, thanks !.
A friend of mine made my husband and me a 12" round Doctor Who clock for Christmas this year (wood burning). It's absolutely beautiful and I decided I needed to find a way to put a finish on it so it wouldn't get messed up in any future moves. So I take to the internet to find my answer.
And I stumble upon this channel.
Let me just tell you.. the fact that you're wearing a Warlords shirt in this video has me completely sold. Nothing but WoW nerds over here! Even the friend that made the clock and her husband play.
Thank you for the tutorial!
Rubbing out to a perfect finish is a relaxing way to pass the time. But this video makes me want to get into woodworking.
Thanks for the tips. I'm in the process of refinishing a maple snare drum and want a professional high gloss finish. This looks to be the path to my goal!
I watched this years ago. After screwing up a lot of finishes since then this makes more sense. It takes a lot of mistakes for me to really understand that finishing takes patience. Drying is not the same as curing. Thanks TWW
I'm getting into woodworking and I love your channel. By far the most entertaining and educational woodworking tutorials. I found this video informative, but based on my custom auto refinishing experience, I'd go easier with the sand paper. 320 is very aggressive... too aggressive for finish work. I'd flatten with 600 - 800 grit, wet sanding and being very careful with the edges. Something the size of a humidor can be flattened very quickly wet sanding with 800 and then you won't have to deal with deep sanding scratches and can remove less material in the subsequent steps. From there I'd continue with 1500 thru 2000 grit BY HAND until I had an even, satin finish with no detectable sanding marks. I'd only use the power sander with the rubbing compounds. Emphasis at all stages needs to be put on being careful not to burn through the edges! I can guarantee 500 grit and a power sander will blast through an edge for all but the most experienced and careful refinishers. You obviously got a great result with your method, I just think it would be trouble for a more inexperienced hand and my suggestions would be safer. I know the pain of "going too far" oh too well. Just my 2 cents.
yes you make a valid point John C. but with 11 coats of clear on the piece there is plenty of room for any mistakes. Being mindful of the edges nearly anyone can do this. especially using a standard orbital sander that has only a 2 to 3 mm orbit. You will have great control and achieve a great result or you can do it all by hand and still get the same result. it just takes far longer and much more work to achieve.
"Rubbing out is a great way to achieve a perfect finish" classic
Or at least a happy ending.
Mind in the gutter nice lol.
LOL!!!!!
It’s pretty accurate
lolololol
Finally that joke was given the time and attention it deserves. LOL I want to re finish an old 1920's piano so I'm trying to watch all your videos. You do a great job at this. thank you
You're a pro. Maybe the best woodworker in the entire you tube universe
Yes, I agree. His videos and comedy are the best. You just can't beat it.
Thanks for the post! I am ready to start buffing and so far the humidor is coming out great!! I have some slip feathers and there was tearout that didn't get totally filled, but otherwise, no visible flaws - and I haven't seen a doctor yet.
I use to do it this way years back. Switched to 2K Automotive clearcoat and can apply all coats needed one day then cut and polish the next day. Now finishing projects only take 2 days.
what is 2k auto clear coat?
Odd thing for me to say, and I swear I’ve never said it, but I appreciate you for showing us how to rub one out!!🤯🤣
What I wouldn't give to be able to afford those beautifully grained woods...and purpleheart...and I'm in love with burled maple and quilted maple and bird's eye maple...and zebrawood and all of those other exotic woods they don't even sell where I live. I love your inlay videos and, well, really, all of your woodworking videos. Thanks for making them. You make stuff really look nice.
Nice finish on the box and a lot of work but worth it.
Thanks Mark,
Roland
Finally a video about rubbing out our wood to a glossy finish.
Yes. Make sure it’s fully hardened before you start rubbing out and achieve the perfect finish.
How you manage to do everything you do, and apparently play WoW is pure inspiration to me, thanks!
hes an actor. the way he says Festool... and 320 grit....
@@MRcaterpus haha 😂
Yes he did a beautiful finish on a small box or surface. All the processes were done properly and in order. A couple things if you don't get all those 320 grit scratches with the 500 grit (600 is more common or available). No matter how much rubbing you do they will show in the final polish. The same goes for each step or grit. On a small piece with small surfaces this is easily accomplished. Like most of these videos they are done on small flat projects or sample boards. It is not that simple on a dining table tops, pianos or large wall panels (30" x 60") or non flat surfaces like serpentine surfaces or surfaces that include raised panels, recessed panels or mouldings. Those mentioned are a much higher degree of difficulty, not impossible, but no comparison to what was shown.
3:12 Everything about that backyard looks like an Arizona backyard.
Great job! It reminds me of when I used to work at a car body shop. Exact same process.
Thanks, very informative, and explains why my lacquer doesn't yet look as shiny as expected. Just wish I'd found this video re the pore filling, before I sprayed the lacquer on.
I freakin love this guy! A perfect blend of comedy and actual info. I nearly pissed myself in the beggining....
That finish turned out great. The box/grain is really nice as well.
Got the veneer from VeneerSupplies.com. Some amazing figured woods for sale there!
I have been putting polyurethane over dewed shellac for years. Here's why: I first use Watco danish oil (natural color) applying it let it rest for an hour, then wiping off; then I do it again. I seal with shellac, then finish with poly.
I would like to try this just to see how much I can make a mess of it. But I was wondering if I can use this method and apply lacquer onto of a danish oil finish? Wonderful job and really enjoy your informative videos.
Thanks for a great video. At the end of the smoothing stage (2000 grit), I've got white dust (probably lacquer + soapy water) embedded in the wood grain (clearly pore filler didn't work as well as expected - on padauk). Any ideas on how to remove this? Mineral spirits make it look great temporarily, but white shows right back up after it dries. Any advice appreciated!
How i make high gloss finish... it does not matter if its colour or lackquer
You dont need pore filler. There are lackquers for open pores and closed ones. Use lackquer for closed pores
1.Sand with 180 and apply basic layer 2 times. You need to sand between layers with 320. Do your best here!
2.Sand basic layer first with 320 and later with 800. With 800 try to remove 320 grid lines. Try not to oversand! If you do you need another coat of basic layer.
3.Apply final coat of colour or lackquer and sand with 800 and then spray one more coat. You can do it more times...(sand it between coats) but its not needed to add more material if you ask me.
4. wait to cure 3-5 days depends of material
5. sand with 1200 grid > 2000
6. Polish with 5000 paste. Most of work is here.
Important tip: Dont sand with hand! Use disksander on flat areas!
www.dropbox.com/s/26jsedl1s8o27s1/DSC_0252.jpg
BTW: Like everyone else, I'm hooked on your videos. Great Work !
Great video Mark!
Can you believe I'm 36 years old and have never rubbed out.
I want to make a 4 foot wide record player stand with vinyl storage underneath. Nothing fancy, just a rectangular box probably made out of 2x4s and metal legs. Where i do want to go all out on is the stain, clear coat & polish.
as always, impeccable...outstanding
bravissimo !
I probably should have sanded between coats of poly, but I didn't. What I have now is a surface that is smooth in most areas but has pock marks in spots as well, and no matter how hard i try with the 320 girt wetordry paper, they remain. Thoughts?
I'm working on six panel solid doors I have about 4 coats of polyurethane on one of them can your buffing out work on doors also.
That's why I do satin finish. Done in a few hours.
You earned a subscription, sir!
Incidentally, I have a porter cable orbital buffer. (meant for 2 handed use on cars/boats) could I use sanding pads with it for projects like these? I build drums as a hobby and need to cut back on the time it takes to sand by hand!
Is this level of finsish sustainable for an extended period of time in high traffic areas?
A buffing wheel on a bench grinder also works well for polishing odd shaped pieces. Like if you needed to polish your knob.
I miss the Acrylic based lacquers. They were mostly used for high gloss automotive finishes.
I know that puns are considered the lowest form of humor but I have discovered (and amassed data) that it requires the highest form of intelligence to create 😊 - great job on the polish too.
thanks for the tips, I've been making crokinole boards and I'll try that polish out to get that nice smooth finish.:)
could you bake the shells or box to speed up drying process if you had an appropriate room?
Thank you for your videos. I am suscribing right now
In the video you mentioned that you sprayed something like 10 coats of laquer. Do you have to sand in between the coats at all? or do you spray a cota allow it to then and then foloowed by more coats without sanding?
Hey Marc. Thanks for all the info you provide online. Cant get enough. So, what would happen if you didn't fill the wood grain with wood filler? Would the finish not seep in and fill the poars? Thanks.
It would look pitted. Those pits would just look weird in a high gloss finish. Hard to explain but it just looks bad.
hi Marc, Isn't that a lot of over spray @ 3:02? Is there any other method/tool to avoid that over spray? Soapy water is very good trick, thanks!!
If you're spraying, you're going to have overspray. You can make changes to the gun's settings to cut down on overspray but you'll never get rid of it completely.
Great work! Just a info on humidor build, its not advisable to put any king of sealer on a humidor as it gets pretty moist inside :) and for longevity its better you leave the wood to breathe. If you live in a climate where the humidity outside is same or similar as the one inside the humidor than you can do whatever you want otherwise its a no no. Been there done that kind of advice...
Now there's some great advice
What I really wish people showed is how they do the narrow sides. I always struggle not to round over thing sizes with all of this sanding and buffing. Heck, even in the initial sanding when I am using a wood block or a foam one for the light passes.
No one ever shows that part. Everyone just used a ROS on large, flat surfaces.
Do you recommend lac sanding sealer as a pore filler?
Do you think I could use this technique for Waterlox? I've read too many complaints about the satin finish, so I'm only using original. Maybe put on an extra coat, then wait 4 weeks? Also, do you need to sand with the grain, or does it not matter at this point because it's on top of the varnish? And can I use my palm sander- the 1/4 sheet kind? TYSM!
How durable is lacquer, and is it water resistant? I want to build a telescope with this finishing process, but it would be subjected to the occasional freezing temps, frost, and dewy conditions.
Great Video. I have a high gloss wood speaker (with a good amount of built up finish) which has some very slight scratches from cleaning. I bought these speakers used and would really like to clean up the top of the speaker. Would the final buffing stage be a reasonable approach to removing very minor cleaning scratches? Thanks in advance Brian
Would this technique at the end also work on an epoxy? if I was using a clear epoxy would that shine it up to a high gloss?
Great informative video, thanks!
you got it. rubbing out is always the way I get a high gloss finish on my guitars .
Good morning Sir. I will appreciate if you tell me how can I remove policrylic sealer from a closet shelves and cabinets, so I can paint it white. Thank you in advance!!!!
The shelves and cabinets were stain and then sealed with policrylic !!!
I am re-veneering the wood in my 64 Jaguar in Burl Walnut, what would you suggest as a poor filler, and where can I get the polish you use in your video. I am after a HIGH GLOSS finishThanksGary
I can get high gloss with laquer, but it does take a number of coats. The method you speak of is probably less time consuming overall.
Can you do something like this on varnish? Or does it only work on lacquer?
Every guy has skills at rubbing out.
Hi, I have a question about a MCM desk that I have. Beautiful piece but has very cheap looking wood grain thick laminate (glossy) top. Is there a way that I can get the gloss off and still have the top look decent without painting etc.? thanks
would recommend a pressure feed spray gun like in this video or a gravity feed for poly finish?
WoW! I'm not into games anymore but you should make a wood model of some of the characters of this game, it will be a hit for sure!
Man, that grain is something else
thanks for sharing, hopefully one day i'll have a project i can use this on, this is also pretty much the same thing you do on other painted surfaces, like a car
Hello, can I ask is it possible to use a high gloss finish on inlay? Just wondering because different woods have different characteristics, so may need different degrees of polishing. Thanks
Could you use Arm-R-Seal for a rubbed out finish? Are water based top coats better then oil based for a rubbed out finish?
what about using 3m medium compund and do glazed mirror finish ,,,,,, sorry to ask im looking for something to polish with car polish that I have ,,,, nice job demo,,, thanks
Absolutely. On guitars with lacquer finish, I wet sand to 1000-1200. Then I use 3M Rubbing Compound (on a foam pad attached to drill). After that I use 3M Finesse-it Finishing Compound, again on the drill with a foam pad (not the same pad as the rubbing compound). If you want, you can then hand apply a pure glaze if you have it.
perfect music behind the filler applications!
Marc, Here's a little tip. Instead of using a putty knife to apply grain filler try using an old credit card, ATM card etc,etc. It won't scratch the wood like a putty knife can. I build, repair and customize guitars and when it comes to grain filling that's all i use.
I've been using them to stop parcel/duck tape rolls from sticking to themselves, another good use for them :)
So the slurry is still here. My Dr said I will live. I agree, more rubbing to to a good finish!
Great video! 👌🏼
i have a question regarding the soapy water you used to lubricate the 320 grit sandpaper. What type of soap are you using? i.e. Dawn. also what is the ratio of soap to water?
Thanks in advance, and keep up the great work on the videos!
Preston
Having watched this after I have already applied some coats of finish using two coats of Minwax Spray Fast Drying Clear Gloss Poly and two coats of General Finish High Gloss. Is it possible to rub this out? What steps are needed to achieve a high shine? More coats of finish, then buff out with a fine polishing compound? Could I use any type of automotive polishing compound such as Griots?
Thank you
Im just wondering if anyone can give me some advice. Im looking at creating my own computer desk, but I want a solid white high gloss finish. What kind of wood/material would I need, which paint would I use, and now would I get a high gloss finish. I was considering just spray painting it white and sanding heavily to smooth it out, and then spraying a clear coat over it again, and again sand with a 240-500-1500-2000 grit and then finish with a polish. Would this be the best method? I've not really worked with wood for about 5-6 years, and back then that was in school
Would this be good for a table top?
it seems that the sp4500 is discontinued? are you still using these same products? is there any other polishes you recommend?
Accidentally rubbed one out looking at that wood 🪵.
It’s like psychedelical or something. ❤️
Love all of your videos! Thank you. Question: Can this same technique be used with a poly-urethane finish? I just finished a nice little keepsake box and applied 3 coats of poly-urethane. Now I want shine and polish it.
Can someone answer this lol. I’m wondering the same
@@patrickmagno2677 I think it would be difficult. Lacquer melts into the previous coat and creates one solid finish. Poly doesn’t do this and is multiple layers. So you can accidentally buff through a layer and it creates witness lines.
3:52 always make sure the "material" is up to full hardness before you rub it out. I see what you did there.
Mac,
If one uses poly - either urethane or alkyd - can one rub out the finish in any way?
Thank you, I needed that pause. ;)
Looks great, what speed do you run your orbital at with the surbuf pads? Highest, high, medium or low?
Love the Shirt and the video
Does anyone know if this process will work with Tried and True oil finish?
Would a method like this work for a marine application with a finish such as epifanes?
It might not yield great results. Outdoor finishes are usually more flexible by design. Buffing works best on hard surfaces. Think of it in terms of candy. Which one is likely to produce a high shine, hard candy or taffy? So I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's probably going to be a lot trickier and you might not get the level of clarity you want in the final appearance.
I've watched this before, but I guess I'd be curious for a before and after. What does 10 coats of lacquer look like vs what the final product looks like? I'm sure the feel is a major difference, but I'd love to see that.
10 coats of gloss laquer looks great. Just time consuming especially doing all sides.
Best title ever
I want to check on the price of these two products your recommend ( IP 2000 and SF 4000). once I came to I realized that my eye were not deceiving me. On amazon.ca these list for approx $120. So that is out of the question. Do you have any alternatives you would recommend.?
what's the sander/buffer you are using ?
how do you rubbing out a high gloss finish for curved surface?
Any reason you chose to putty fill the grain opposed to using a sanding sealer?
+MJorgy5 sanding sealer isn't really intended for pore filling. Putty is thick and fills the pores easily.
I have a guitar with a high gloss finish and would like it more of a satin. Will this work for that ? And do I stop after 2000 sanding or after the IP 2000
+Doc Miller I haven't done much with matte or satin via rubbing out so I'd have to experiment a bit to see which grit gives the look I'm going for. 2000 might even be a little high for satin. I'd first stop at 1000 or so and see how that goes. You're working up through the grits so ultimately, you can just stop once you have the look you want.
This question is irrelevant to the video but that doesn't matter, I'm finishing building a bookcase made out of knotty pine and I was just wondering, if you were making the bookcase, what would use to stain it? Thanks
Nothing. If it were my building a bookcase out of pine I'd specifically avoid staining. But if I really HAD to stain it, I'd use Charles Neil's Blotch Control followed by a General Finishes water-based dye.
What about a urethane?
isaac braun you can topcoat with whatever finish you like after the dye is applied.
Sorry I didn't make myself clear, but I meant to just use a urethane and nothing else.
isaac braun Yes of course. You can certainly just apply a clear finish like a urethane.
does work on a rubber boot ?thank you
I think you could have gotten the same effect as the filler if you just put a coat of shellac and sanded it down well. Then sprayed the lacquer, sanding in between coats. I've noticed this fills open grain woods well. I've made a humidor that looks very similar actually.
You can get the same effect but with a lot more work and a lot more waste. Filler gets you there in one step, two at the most. And the filler won't shrink over time, which is something that can happen if you fill with finish. I know many folks who like the finish-fill method but I truly prefer a dedicated filler step.