I'm also wondering if those can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle but the oil pan off. I'm doing a timing job on my 2007 and I have the pan off so that I can clean out the fragments of the chain guide. Preemptively replacing the thrust washer is something on my mind since I've seen your videos on their failures.
Before this video I had never heard of a thrust washer. Sounds like a joke part to me. But I bought a F150 with the 5.4 3v about 6 months ago. So.. I learn. I am than thankful for your channel Brian. Thank you sir.
Change fluids and take care of it. If the previous owner did. Youll have zero issue hitting half a mill miles changing fluids filters and plugs/coils. I have 3 variants of this engine personally and the company i work for have 7 150s with these engines in them and all over 500k as well. This issue is not THAT common. Its almost always caused by terrible owners
I have a Caravan work a 3.6L that I saw had a common issue with one of the lash adjusters going bad. So I just stay on top of oil changes and only use full synthetic and this engine 278,000kms on it. It was at 168,000 when I bought of 5 years ago. I hate when you read comments from people complaining about something being a piece of garbage. Then they show you and you can clearly see the lack of maintenence done.
Really great video thank you! I'm almost finished with a timing chain replace on a 07 F150 and wish this was something I checked before starting. Almost need to title this video as part zero of the timing chain video series. Thank you so much! If I were closer I would have taken my truck to your shop.
I bought it new, and I now have 218,000 mi. on my 07 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4. With FordTechMakuloco's help, I did the full timing job at 171,000 including the M360 oil pump, due to the slight diesel noise coming from the phasers. I did not replace or even remove and check the roller-followers as Makuloco suggests. I don't baby it at all. My daily work commute is 15-20 minutes each way. I used conventional 5W-20 for the first 171,000 miles changing it every 4-7k miles. I switched to synthetic after getting a good look inside during the timing job, and I now try to keep it changed before 5k miles. I do need to add oil, 1-1.5 quarts between changes. It's still a pretty good truck!
Absolutely great video. Iam a Mopar guy, but I never miss any of your videos on the Fords. They all break at one time or another no matter who built them. It's all mechanicin'
You are an amazing wrench, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I learn a ton of shit from your videos you post. I have been watching since you first started and have encountered multiple symptoms and knew what to replace and how to replace it thanks to your excellent videos. I also would like to comment on how far you have come speaking on your videos. The early ones you were very limited on words and seemed very uncomfortable speaking and making the video not with your work whatsoever. Now it’s like you are a professional instructor. You have saved me thousands of dollars and many hours on my family’s 05 expedition. Thanks again for everything you do, it was awesome watching you go from a ford tech to fixing fords across America to your own shop. Thanks again and keep them coming. God bless
I have done timing chains,tensioners, phasers, vct solenoids all in the driveway for my vehicle and many friends saving everyone tons of money just from watching your videos, which is great because I am a broke combat veteran. Paycheck to paycheck. There just aren’t words for how great full I am for your videos
Look to the transmission causing the excessive load on the bearing. Restricted oil cooler line will push the converter into the thrust washer with enough force to take it out. Seen it before.
Why I flush my transmission cooler every 2 years..Not a big fan of them using the radiator either pull heat away.. Seems stupid.. At least put an 6" electric fan on the cooler...
@@MasterChief-sl9ro the transmission does not run through the radiator to pull heat away lol. It is to warm up the transmission in cold weather starts.
Google: Torque Converter Ballooning. A thrust washer keeps the crankshaft aligned. Rear pressure is what burns them out prematurely, insufficient oil clearance.
I've been really lucky then I have replaced these multiple times put new bearings in as a in frame job and the folks i sold these trucks to are still driving them I also did a several serous engine flushes before and after these jobs
You have made quite a few videos of the problems these 5.4L 3 valve engines have. They seem to need quite a bit of repairs once they have +100,000 miles On them. Do the newer 4 v V8's and the ecoboost engines in the newer F150's have the same issues??? Thanks for all your informative videos.
i own a 03 ford focus 2.0 dohc zetec vin 3 w/about 210k. I just changed my main & rod bearings due to a slight knock, tore it apart & found excessive wear due to a previous owner & I have done so many repairs & upgrades, I have put way to much into it! tho, I can't stop now, commited! I know it's not 5.4 related but, its a FORD. RUNS GOOD AGAIN!
Thanks Brian! Another great video. I have a 2007 Expedition with the 3V 5.4. It has 150,000 miles on it. Is there any preventative measures that can be done to catch this before it destroys the engine?
@@TheChrisey Thanks. I now have a 2019 Expedition Limited with the 3.5, so I don't worry about this anymore. I gave the 2007 to my Daughter and Son-in-law. It is still running great and now has 270,000 miles on it.
I’m glad I sold my 07’ screw 5.4 last year. Between replacing the spark plugs and doing a complete timing job on it I totally lost interest in it. I ended up buying my dads 03’ FX4 Screw 5.4 70k miles that he bought new. Not as equipped as my 07 was but I love this truck so much more. Last good year Ford made a reliable engine.
On our 5.0L, we now use a clamshell liner bearing on the lower main bearing cap with the thrust washer on top. I believe it to be a superior design to this older setup.
This engine doesn't look like it was well maintained in my opinion. I just opened my 218k mile 5.4 to replace the timming components and it was absolutely clean inside, everything look gold colored. Always use synthetic 5w30 and change it every 6k miles. Same thing with my 258k mile f150 when I replace the valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils etc.
RCLegion The engine had slight varnish on it but nothing that would restrict oil flow to the crank. Most all manufacturers say varnish/discoloration with no depth to it is harmless in an engine. Serious heavy towing , or an issue with a torque converter are prime culprits to thrust bearing failure when no other bearings show indications of oil starvation. It could also have been improperly installed at the factory.
Thank god I bought a an 04 with 2 valve with no spark plugs popping out YET. 265k but been hearing the start up rattle sometimes but once in a while I hear the rattle while running 😢. I love your content and info.
I change Oil every 4 months at first with 5-20 W conventional Oil. Now with synthetic 5-30 Oil like you recommend, still hear tapping during warm engine idle. What remanufactured 5.4 3V engine co. do you recommend? Can you have them install the high volume Oil pump with the latest Ford Cam phasers that you recommend? I maintain my trucks, no scratches or dings, always washed and waxed, worked hard but not beat on. Thanks for all the good advice.
FordTechMakuloco-Does this look like it was maintained properly? Or, does the internals appear to show a lack on maintenance? Also, how many miles were on this engine? Just curious. Thanks!
This feels like the most "unfair" of all the 5.4 3V common problems...I don't think I'll ever buy another Ford! They should be ashamed to be seen at parties. I was getting materials/parts ready to do a full timing job...very glad I watched this video before purchasing anything!
Good info...may I ask ,what the concern/complaint was, that the customer brought the vehicle in for? I just have not seen this type o f issue on the 5.4. What was the mileage on that motor?
Glad to hear you are gonna continue - You have helped me several times on my 08 Escape and 13 Escape... Since no one asked, what RC's do you got? I have a Vintage RC10 gold pan (84) I saved from a basket case, a RC10.4 moded up, and a Traxas Slash with more aluminum add-ons that its really worth but it keeps going. I got started with Tamayi trucks and buggies years and years ago.
Amazing how far down hill the Domestics have gone these days. We've only been building engines for what ... 100+ years now? Unreal! I've got a '07 Silverado with a 5.3 that I bought back then - first new vehicle I ever bought in my life (and my LAST). If the Ford dealer was open on Sundays, I'd have an '07 F-150 with this exact Triton engine in it. Not that it really matters, since GM designed the worst valve train in the history of automotive engineering with their now notorious AFM system. I'm at 92k on my Silverado, and oil analysis has been showing high levels of iron & copper (cam bearings, given this model engine's failure history) running Amsoil synthetic - never gone more than 9k miles on time before changing it either - well within a synthetic oil's capability. The engine is a piece of crap, thanks to modern cost cutting. Just a matter of time before it becomes a $6,000 pile of scrap. 😡
Why did the 3v hit only a few people so hard. I have a 2v and 3v both over 500k miles. Neither have even had so much as a valve cover leak. When i pulled the 2v apart the thrust bearings were in amazing shape.
I see a lot of problems with these Modular 3 valve engines.... Do the earlier 2 valve engines have these problems too? I have a 02 Explorer 4.6 with 214k original miles on engine and trans. The exhaust just started leaking at the manifold and I'm worried these other problems will start creeping up soon.
if you used a feeler gauge under the crank pulley what should the number be and a bad numer would be .014 larger than the good number approximately ? and Thanks again asking because I have the 07 5.4 3v in my F 150
I remember you showing me this video on a truck saying put a screwdriver between the timing cover and the harmonic balancer and see if it moves. I ran out there at 1:00 a.m. cuz I just got the truck and I checked it and mine was right up against the timing cover and no play. Dallas last year I just change the oil every 3500 miles don't know if it's the original engine or timing components but it's got $262,000 me and it's an 08
I am thinking so as the crank is thrusting away from transmission as in the case you show. High mile engine as the belt tensioner pivot bushing has worn out causing the pulley to grind into the front cover. Really curious has this reoccurred? Done 30 k trans services to mine since I have owned it. My crank thrust is 0.009 in with no belt and 150k 2007 model.Had me worried never checked the crank end play outside of just dropping the crank into a fresh rebuild.
Was the 99 5.4 Triton pretty strong? Better of the bunch? What Problems should I look for? I have about 100K on the Ford / Jasper Reman unit. Thanks! Do you recommend only Motorcraft Oil?
Sean Desrosiers I have a 08 with 130000 miles only issue has been a cracked manifold and I did a tune up at 129000 that’s it never a check engine light or anything of that nature
If the thrust washer is the problem, you were saying reman or rebuild youself if within your capabilities. With the rebuild, would you need to regrind the crank and how would you address the thrust surface area of the crank to still maintain end play within spec?
Well, at least it's probably rebuildable. Gonna need crank grinding, undersize bearings and thrust washers for sure, along with all the other new parts, seals and gaskets. [edit] - I take that back, you'll need a new crankshaft to use this block again. The largest undersize available from Sealed Power is 1.0MM which converts to .039 (aka 39 thousandths), which would take up most of the .050, but considering you'll have to clean up the thrust surfaces on the crank, I don't think you'll be able to get the clearances within factory specs. Unless you did something fancy like spray welding more metal on the thrust surfaces, but that's probably not cost effective vs getting a new crank.
2 major questions: Did this problem exist in the 2010 model year as well? And got a cold start rattle (very light) around 3 months ago, probably 3k miles ago or less. Should I urgently get this work done or is it fine to drive a bit further? I see some people that go 40k with the cold start rattle but I'm sure that is damaging the roller followers and valve area from lack of oil. I would love to wait another 5k miles to do this job but I'm not sure what kind of damage would happen in that mileage with gentle driving. Then again, I can fix it now but I only have 140k miles so it seems a bit early.
Question I just purchase back in December of 17 at 2006 F150 King Ranch version Cadillac converter is totally messed up can I convert over to running pipes out the solve that problem about the Cadillac converter on a 2006 F-150 King Ranch
I did what u said not too before I seen this video but question I replaced thrust washers with motor in and went very easy but I still had alot of end play why would that be if I put factory washers back in is crank worn out or somethings else?
I have a 2006 F150 3V 80k miles. I started running 5W-30 a while ago per your advice. Does that have any positive effects on the thrust bearing longevity like the VCT system?
I have a 6.8 triton V10 with 270K on it. It is in my 2001 excursion… Zero leaks, zero issues. Runs great. Is it a time bomb ready to explode? What can I do to keep it going another 100K?
Nothing. The old v10's are bulletproof. Only problem is shitty exhaust manifolds and spark plugs blowing out of the heads. But if you ever do the plugs just overtorque them a bit and they'll never blow out.
Considering I have 262,000 mi and my truck runs good. Do you think this truck 2008 3 valve has the original cam phasers and timing components, and people that know Ford well what about the 6-speed transmission in this 08 expedition you think that's original, like to get some feedback to know if cam phasers in timing parts can last 262,000 MI
I feel bad for asking but does FordTechMakuloco have a program to help people who are facing illness keep a vehicle my 03 expedition needs a lower rebuild I have tumors on my spine and may not be able to work much longer. I love the truck but can’t afford the full cost of an engine rebuild or replace
I have seen this failure in the 90s with the AOD transmissions. The TV linkage or valve would stick off idle causing high transmission line pressure at idle causing excessive pressure in the torque converter at idle when oil pressure is at its lowest that would excessively load the crank thrust bearing and cause it to fail. Could the EPC solenoid be sticking in the same manner in this case? have you seen any returning cases?
I just purchased an engine from power train products and after installing the crank pulley I really feel like it sits way too far out from the timing cover almost the same distance as the pulley in this video when you have it set all the way out with the pry bar but I can't see any visual play and dont have any tools to measure the actual distance yet but I can certainly fit a pry bar / screw driver between there and it just doesn't seem right to me. Is this normal on the new engine? is there a break in factor that needs to happen in order for the rest of the engine to settle those parts exactly where they need to be?
Whats your thoughts on a late model 4.2 Windsor V6? (2006 F150) i know they it was refreshed for 2004. Overall, are there any issues? I got 125k on the clock thansk!!
So i have a question not fully on the topic of the video. But i have a 2000 F250 with the 5.4 and i was wondering if the V10 would be a more reliable swap?
I have a 07 that was built in 12/06. So I think I am on the border line here. My plugs were the 2 piece, and valve cover has the 14/15 bolt pattern. Same engine or no?
What would cause that to fail? No maintenance or oil changes? My 08 has 126000 and I’ve changed oil every 5k with motocraft synthetic blend. New OF each time too. Also I assume the motor is gonna make some God awful racket if that bearing goes. What is the best indication to suspect it has cracked ??
Best to change every 3,000 miles to keep clean inside your 5.4L 3V much you can. I owned 2005 F150 with remanf 5.4L 3V so I always use 5W30 Syth Blend with oil filter motorcraft every 3,000 miles no issue 170,000 miles so I check inside tube cam with camera, cam phasers are so CLEAN! 5.4L 3V are very picky cleanliness but it is very good engines that why maintenance is important.
You can but it would not be accurate since the pulley dampener deflects that is why it is best to take a reading on something like the crankshaft bolt that does not move.
Platform is better than people know. The failure are bad owners. Ive not seen an issue on these modulars that wasnt deserved from neglect. Nothing against what your shop has come across but ive had nothing but good runs on these runs of engines. 07 2v romeo 593k. 07 5.4 3v 523k and a 08 5.4 2v s/c. Rebuilt for racing in 20011 and run hard. Never eaten a set of bearings or washers on any of them.
These are the Parts and Tools I recommend:
Flexible Dial Caliper-
amzn.to/2GGk3y0
FordTechMakuloco can those be changed just by dropping the oil pan?
What remanufactured engine(s) do you recommend?
I'm also wondering if those can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle but the oil pan off. I'm doing a timing job on my 2007 and I have the pan off so that I can clean out the fragments of the chain guide. Preemptively replacing the thrust washer is something on my mind since I've seen your videos on their failures.
Ive been a tech for 24 years now and all ive got to say is God bless Ford motor company!!! Lol
Before this video I had never heard of a thrust washer. Sounds like a joke part to me. But I bought a F150 with the 5.4 3v about 6 months ago. So.. I learn. I am than thankful for your channel Brian. Thank you sir.
Change fluids and take care of it. If the previous owner did. Youll have zero issue hitting half a mill miles changing fluids filters and plugs/coils. I have 3 variants of this engine personally and the company i work for have 7 150s with these engines in them and all over 500k as well. This issue is not THAT common. Its almost always caused by terrible owners
I have a Caravan work a 3.6L that I saw had a common issue with one of the lash adjusters going bad. So I just stay on top of oil changes and only use full synthetic and this engine 278,000kms on it. It was at 168,000 when I bought of 5 years ago. I hate when you read comments from people complaining about something being a piece of garbage. Then they show you and you can clearly see the lack of maintenence done.
Really great video thank you! I'm almost finished with a timing chain replace on a 07 F150 and wish this was something I checked before starting. Almost need to title this video as part zero of the timing chain video series. Thank you so much! If I were closer I would have taken my truck to your shop.
ah the good old 2 valve in my 03 F150 is at 340K and climbing, watching this video makes me think I need to keep it going as long as possible!
Yep keep it ive got a 1999ford f150 5.4 triton still going strong im keeping mine👍😊
guyina4x4 I just got a 2000 with the 5.4 for $800. Happy to hear you guys have had good luck with them!
1985 Kx I've got ,01 f250 2 valve.....awesome truck
i have the 4.6 windsor in my 97f150. 180k and its holding well. not a powerhouse but gets the job done.
My 99 f150 made it to 415000 before blowing a head gasket
I bought it new, and I now have 218,000 mi. on my 07 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4. With FordTechMakuloco's help, I did the full timing job at 171,000 including the M360 oil pump, due to the slight diesel noise coming from the phasers. I did not replace or even remove and check the roller-followers as Makuloco suggests. I don't baby it at all. My daily work commute is 15-20 minutes each way. I used conventional 5W-20 for the first 171,000 miles changing it every 4-7k miles. I switched to synthetic after getting a good look inside during the timing job, and I now try to keep it changed before 5k miles. I do need to add oil, 1-1.5 quarts between changes. It's still a pretty good truck!
Absolutely great video. Iam a Mopar guy, but I never miss any of your videos on the Fords. They all break at one time or another no matter who built them. It's all mechanicin'
Exactly!
Brian, what do you drive? What are the top three things Ford V8/V10 owners should do to make them last?
You are an amazing wrench, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I learn a ton of shit from your videos you post. I have been watching since you first started and have encountered multiple symptoms and knew what to replace and how to replace it thanks to your excellent videos. I also would like to comment on how far you have come speaking on your videos. The early ones you were very limited on words and seemed very uncomfortable speaking and making the video not with your work whatsoever. Now it’s like you are a professional instructor. You have saved me thousands of dollars and many hours on my family’s 05 expedition. Thanks again for everything you do, it was awesome watching you go from a ford tech to fixing fords across America to your own shop. Thanks again and keep them coming. God bless
I have done timing chains,tensioners, phasers, vct solenoids all in the driveway for my vehicle and many friends saving everyone tons of money just from watching your videos, which is great because I am a broke combat veteran. Paycheck to paycheck. There just aren’t words for how great full I am for your videos
Thank you for your service Roger Arnberg.
Matthew Hewes your welcome
Great stuff...always good to know what to look out for.. Avoiding any costs later on
@FordTechMakuloco at what mileage would you recommend changing the thrust washer to prevent engine failure?
I did this on a 2000 mustang gt 4.6,it was supercharged 430hp,i then added 100hp nitrous...blew the Crank thrust washer...still ran perfect...
Look to the transmission causing the excessive load on the bearing. Restricted oil cooler line will push the converter into the thrust washer with enough force to take it out. Seen it before.
Good to know, thanks.
Why I flush my transmission cooler every 2 years..Not a big fan of them using the radiator either pull heat away.. Seems stupid.. At least put an 6" electric fan on the cooler...
@@MasterChief-sl9ro the transmission does not run through the radiator to pull heat away lol. It is to warm up the transmission in cold weather starts.
Google: Torque Converter Ballooning. A thrust washer keeps the crankshaft aligned. Rear pressure is what burns them out prematurely, insufficient oil clearance.
Awesome Video! Thx for showing us why we need to take care of our vehicles. It's just cheaper and besides it lets us buy More Tools!!
I've been really lucky then I have replaced these multiple times put new bearings in as a in frame job and the folks i sold these trucks to are still driving them I also did a several serous engine flushes before and after these jobs
You have made quite a few videos of the problems these 5.4L 3 valve engines have. They seem to need quite a bit of repairs once they have +100,000 miles On them. Do the newer 4 v V8's and the ecoboost engines in the newer F150's have the same issues??? Thanks for all your informative videos.
i own a 03 ford focus 2.0 dohc zetec vin 3 w/about 210k. I just changed my main & rod bearings due to a slight knock, tore it apart & found excessive wear due to a previous owner & I have done so many repairs & upgrades, I have put way to much into it! tho, I can't stop now, commited! I know it's not 5.4 related but, its a FORD. RUNS GOOD AGAIN!
Thanks Brian! Another great video. I have a 2007 Expedition with the 3V 5.4. It has 150,000 miles on it. Is there any preventative measures that can be done to catch this before it destroys the engine?
I wish he responded to these questions.
You can check your endplay frequently.
@@TheChrisey Thanks. I now have a 2019 Expedition Limited with the 3.5, so I don't worry about this anymore. I gave the 2007 to my Daughter and Son-in-law. It is still running great and now has 270,000 miles on it.
@@raycalandra1887 I had a complete thrust bearing failure last week. Destroyed block and crank so that sucks
@@TheChrisey Sorry to hear that.
Work I will never do myself, but, wow, so informative! Thanks a lot! I have a 2000 Navigator with the 4 valve, 5.4L. Super nice engine!
I’m glad I sold my 07’ screw 5.4 last year. Between replacing the spark plugs and doing a complete timing job on it I totally lost interest in it. I ended up buying my dads 03’ FX4 Screw 5.4 70k miles that he bought new. Not as equipped as my 07 was but I love this truck so much more. Last good year Ford made a reliable engine.
On our 5.0L, we now use a clamshell liner bearing on the lower main bearing cap with the thrust washer on top. I believe it to be a superior design to this older setup.
Great video. Your explanation of what happened was very clear. How many miles on that engine before this happened?
I have a 05 and I was doing a timing job on mine with ur videos for help and dropped the oil pan and found the thrust washer in it
Same thing happened to me how long did it last
Just happened to my 06 found one in the pan
This engine doesn't look like it was well maintained in my opinion. I just opened my 218k mile 5.4 to replace the timming components and it was absolutely clean inside, everything look gold colored. Always use synthetic 5w30 and change it every 6k miles. Same thing with my 258k mile f150 when I replace the valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils etc.
RCLegion The engine had slight varnish on it but nothing that would restrict oil flow to the crank. Most all manufacturers say varnish/discoloration with no depth to it is harmless in an engine. Serious heavy towing , or an issue with a torque converter are prime culprits to thrust bearing failure when no other bearings show indications of oil starvation. It could also have been improperly installed at the factory.
Thank god I bought a an 04 with 2 valve with no spark plugs popping out YET. 265k but been hearing the start up rattle sometimes but once in a while I hear the rattle while running 😢. I love your content and info.
I change Oil every 4 months at first with 5-20 W conventional Oil. Now with synthetic 5-30 Oil like you recommend, still hear tapping during warm engine idle. What remanufactured 5.4 3V engine co. do you recommend? Can you have them install the high volume Oil pump with the latest Ford Cam phasers that
you recommend? I maintain my trucks, no scratches or dings, always washed and waxed, worked hard but not beat on. Thanks for all the good advice.
FordTechMakuloco-Does this look like it was maintained properly? Or, does the internals appear to show a lack on maintenance? Also, how many miles were on this engine? Just curious. Thanks!
Thank u for the great info u put out. I still enjoy your vids even after I traded my 2010 expedition.
This feels like the most "unfair" of all the 5.4 3V common problems...I don't think I'll ever buy another Ford! They should be ashamed to be seen at parties. I was getting materials/parts ready to do a full timing job...very glad I watched this video before purchasing anything!
As always great video and exceptional knowledge, thanks Brian.
Just checked my 2007 Expedition while doing a timing job. Measured 0.008" at 206,000 miles, right in the middle of the spec.
Good video great info
I got stuck doing the new fusion sensor level recalls this week
Lol, how is it compared to the Escape version.
About the same
Transits have a recall out to and newer escapes 😳
What's a good company for a reman engine?
Your videos are of great help to me ,thanks dude.
Good info...may I ask ,what the concern/complaint was, that the customer brought the vehicle in for? I just have not seen this type o f issue on the 5.4. What was the mileage on that motor?
Glad to hear you are gonna continue - You have helped me several times on my 08 Escape and 13 Escape... Since no one asked, what RC's do you got? I have a Vintage RC10 gold pan (84) I saved from a basket case, a RC10.4 moded up, and a Traxas Slash with more aluminum add-ons that its really worth but it keeps going. I got started with Tamayi trucks and buggies years and years ago.
I've got a 2007 5.4 . Is it possible to just replace the thrust washer without removing the engine?
Man, that's some serious carnage! For once it ain't mine.
could you tell me if the 6.2 is the same? cant seem to find any information on it, also interested in the timing of the 6.2, thanks.
Amazing how far down hill the Domestics have gone these days. We've only been building engines for what ... 100+ years now? Unreal!
I've got a '07 Silverado with a 5.3 that I bought back then - first new vehicle I ever bought in my life (and my LAST). If the Ford dealer was open on Sundays, I'd have an '07 F-150 with this exact Triton engine in it. Not that it really matters, since GM designed the worst valve train in the history of automotive engineering with their now notorious AFM system. I'm at 92k on my Silverado, and oil analysis has been showing high levels of iron & copper (cam bearings, given this model engine's failure history) running Amsoil synthetic - never gone more than 9k miles on time before changing it either - well within a synthetic oil's capability. The engine is a piece of crap, thanks to modern cost cutting. Just a matter of time before it becomes a $6,000 pile of scrap. 😡
Thanks Brian , what noise will that make? Thumping i presume not knocking ?
scraping noose under load when it is completely gone.
Looking forward to testing out my 06 150k. Annoying belt noises. Before I throw water pump and pulleys and belt im checking for this
Why did the 3v hit only a few people so hard. I have a 2v and 3v both over 500k miles. Neither have even had so much as a valve cover leak. When i pulled the 2v apart the thrust bearings were in amazing shape.
I see a lot of problems with these Modular 3 valve engines.... Do the earlier 2 valve engines have these problems too? I have a 02 Explorer 4.6 with 214k original miles on engine and trans. The exhaust just started leaking at the manifold and I'm worried these other problems will start creeping up soon.
Wish I would've seen this before I bought a used 2006 expidition that appears to have a over extended crankshaft 🤢
Does you have a video of what this sounds like when it's running? Trying to narrow down what my knock is before I take the oil pan off.
Wow gotta look out for that. Thanks for sharing! Happy new year!
if you used a feeler gauge under the crank pulley what should the number be and a bad numer would be .014 larger than the good number approximately ? and Thanks again asking because I have the 07 5.4 3v in my F 150
I remember you showing me this video on a truck saying put a screwdriver between the timing cover and the harmonic balancer and see if it moves. I ran out there at 1:00 a.m. cuz I just got the truck and I checked it and mine was right up against the timing cover and no play. Dallas last year I just change the oil every 3500 miles don't know if it's the original engine or timing components but it's got $262,000 me and it's an 08
I am thinking so as the crank is thrusting away from transmission as in the case you show. High mile engine as the belt tensioner pivot bushing has worn out causing the pulley to grind into the front cover. Really curious has this reoccurred? Done 30 k trans services to mine since I have owned it. My crank thrust is 0.009 in with no belt and 150k 2007 model.Had me worried never checked the crank end play outside of just dropping the crank into a fresh rebuild.
Was the 99 5.4 Triton pretty strong? Better of the bunch? What Problems should I look for? I have about 100K on the Ford / Jasper Reman unit. Thanks! Do you recommend only Motorcraft Oil?
Well that was interesting. I have an 08 with the 5.4. Only has 32000miles but I’m a little nervous now
Sean Desrosiers I have a 08 with 130000 miles only issue has been a cracked manifold and I did a tune up at 129000 that’s it never a check engine light or anything of that nature
What reman engine do you recommend for these trucks? Have the issues with these engines been fixed with the remans? Thanks man. Love the videos!
Joseph Lupo go with jaspers
Did they ever narrow the problem down to specific engine build dates or build locations?
Without this piece...we wouldn't have the awesome tivct 5.0
If the thrust washer is the problem, you were saying reman or rebuild youself if within your capabilities. With the rebuild, would you need to regrind the crank and how would you address the thrust surface area of the crank to still maintain end play within spec?
what was the mileage, was maintenance done on time or abused?
Well, at least it's probably rebuildable. Gonna need crank grinding, undersize bearings and thrust washers for sure, along with all the other new parts, seals and gaskets.
[edit] - I take that back, you'll need a new crankshaft to use this block again. The largest undersize available from Sealed Power is 1.0MM which converts to .039 (aka 39 thousandths), which would take up most of the .050, but considering you'll have to clean up the thrust surfaces on the crank, I don't think you'll be able to get the clearances within factory specs. Unless you did something fancy like spray welding more metal on the thrust surfaces, but that's probably not cost effective vs getting a new crank.
good info, thanks
2 major questions: Did this problem exist in the 2010 model year as well? And got a cold start rattle (very light) around 3 months ago, probably 3k miles ago or less. Should I urgently get this work done or is it fine to drive a bit further? I see some people that go 40k with the cold start rattle but I'm sure that is damaging the roller followers and valve area from lack of oil. I would love to wait another 5k miles to do this job but I'm not sure what kind of damage would happen in that mileage with gentle driving. Then again, I can fix it now but I only have 140k miles so it seems a bit early.
Question I just purchase back in December of 17 at 2006 F150 King Ranch version Cadillac converter is totally messed up can I convert over to running pipes out the solve that problem about the Cadillac converter on a 2006 F-150 King Ranch
I did what u said not too before I seen this video but question I replaced thrust washers with motor in and went very easy but I still had alot of end play why would that be if I put factory washers back in is crank worn out or somethings else?
What do you think likely hood of caught right after it starts making the tapping that just changing thrust washers would repair?
I have a 2006 F150 3V 80k miles. I started running 5W-30 a while ago per your advice. Does that have any positive effects on the thrust bearing longevity like the VCT system?
P just change the oil every 3500 miles and use a quality filter 8,000 mi is a baby 80,000. Mine has 262,000
Transmission pushing against crank....
Most of the problems with the 5.4 engine are from the owner not properly maintaining them
I have a 6.8 triton V10 with 270K on it.
It is in my 2001 excursion… Zero leaks, zero issues. Runs great. Is it a time bomb ready to explode? What can I do to keep it going another 100K?
Rob Sanford your fine it's a 2 valve
Ford put 2Vs in some vehicles inn the US up to 2014. The Excursion got the 2V until it was discontinued in the 2005 MY.
Nothing. The old v10's are bulletproof. Only problem is shitty exhaust manifolds and spark plugs blowing out of the heads. But if you ever do the plugs just overtorque them a bit and they'll never blow out.
Another great informative video. Thank you.
Torn a 5.4 3v 2005 f-150 down and noticed the tone wheel teeth were worn. Pulled the oil pan and there laid what was left of the washers. Ouch R.I.P.
Considering I have 262,000 mi and my truck runs good. Do you think this truck 2008 3 valve has the original cam phasers and timing components, and people that know Ford well what about the 6-speed transmission in this 08 expedition you think that's original, like to get some feedback to know if cam phasers in timing parts can last 262,000 MI
great information thanks for taking the time to share
I feel bad for asking but does FordTechMakuloco have a program to help people who are facing illness keep a vehicle my 03 expedition needs a lower rebuild I have tumors on my spine and may not be able to work much longer. I love the truck but can’t afford the full cost of an engine rebuild or replace
Just curious - you said in the beginning 5.4 3V in the ‘07-08 F150. Is there a difference on the 5.4 3V used in an ‘08 Expedition. ?
The only difference is the transmission that was used.
Wow that Oil pickup :O
1:46 Whats a cylinder block?😂 great vids buddy they’ve helped me a lot. Keep em coming👍
That last counter weight look like it’s been hot.
I have seen this failure in the 90s with the AOD transmissions. The TV linkage or valve would stick off idle causing high transmission line pressure at idle causing excessive pressure in the torque converter at idle when oil pressure is at its lowest that would excessively load the crank thrust bearing and cause it to fail. Could the EPC solenoid be sticking in the same manner in this case? have you seen any returning cases?
is there any noise when thrust washer is going out, before engine is trashed? Another way to say it, is there any warning sounds?
Thanks Brian, that's valuable info!!!
Hello, I'm fairly new to your channel, and currently in the market for a F150 2011 and up, do you have any suggestions?
Do you think the 2011 or newer 5.0L V8s will have similar thrust washer failures or cam wear issues.
Was this failure more common with vehicles with a clutch?
No
what are some symptoms of this? i have this exact truck and want to get to it if i ever feel anything
Will an 07 Lincoln Mark LT suffer the same issue? I'm thinking it's a good possibility. Will it tick or make noises when this is happening?
I’m doing the cam shafts ,timing chain kit and the rot bearings on my 05 king ranch but my engine it’s on should I do this watcher?
I just purchased an engine from power train products and after installing the crank pulley I really feel like it sits way too far out from the timing cover almost the same distance as the pulley in this video when you have it set all the way out with the pry bar but I can't see any visual play and dont have any tools to measure the actual distance yet but I can certainly fit a pry bar / screw driver between there and it just doesn't seem right to me. Is this normal on the new engine? is there a break in factor that needs to happen in order for the rest of the engine to settle those parts exactly where they need to be?
Whats your thoughts on a late model 4.2 Windsor V6? (2006 F150) i know they it was refreshed for 2004.
Overall, are there any issues? I got 125k on the clock thansk!!
Thank you Brain great information
Great vid Sir Brian. Thank u
So i have a question not fully on the topic of the video. But i have a 2000 F250 with the 5.4 and i was wondering if the V10 would be a more reliable swap?
Can you change the thrust bearing by dropping the pan to change it?
I guess I should've watched the whole video first.
I have a 07 that was built in 12/06. So I think I am on the border line here. My plugs were the 2 piece, and valve cover has the 14/15 bolt pattern. Same engine or no?
can you use feeler gauge to determine if its bad or not
What would cause that to fail? No maintenance or oil changes? My 08 has 126000 and I’ve changed oil every 5k with motocraft synthetic blend. New OF each time too. Also I assume the motor is gonna make some God awful racket if that bearing goes. What is the best indication to suspect it has cracked ??
Best to change every 3,000 miles to keep clean inside your 5.4L 3V much you can. I owned 2005 F150 with remanf 5.4L 3V so I always use 5W30 Syth Blend with oil filter motorcraft every 3,000 miles no issue 170,000 miles so I check inside tube cam with camera, cam phasers are so CLEAN! 5.4L 3V are very picky cleanliness but it is very good engines that why maintenance is important.
Can I check crankshaft clearance to timing cover with feeler gauge? Is so what should it be
You can but it would not be accurate since the pulley dampener deflects that is why it is best to take a reading on something like the crankshaft bolt that does not move.
is there anything I should be concerned about for an 09'?
no but stick with 5w-30
Is this issue only on the 07/08 f150 or does it apply to other models like the superduty f250/350?
I have only seen it on the f-150
Thanks
i wonder what noises that engine was doing .
Ive made a lot of money working on these garbage engines. Thank you ford for another engineering atrocity.
Platform is better than people know. The failure are bad owners. Ive not seen an issue on these modulars that wasnt deserved from neglect. Nothing against what your shop has come across but ive had nothing but good runs on these runs of engines. 07 2v romeo 593k. 07 5.4 3v 523k and a 08 5.4 2v s/c. Rebuilt for racing in 20011 and run hard. Never eaten a set of bearings or washers on any of them.
Thanks for you video ...
People hate on the 5.4 but it doesn't give you issues till around 200k anyway. So what, you got your use out of it. Replace it with new and move on.
Is it the same for the 6.7's? I can't find any video on 6.7s