EEVblog
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2014
- A followup on the FLIR TG165 Visual Thermometer / Thermal Camera teardown. A look at the micro-shutter and some thermal chamber experiments and scope measurements on the SPI data from the Lepton sensor used.
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Link to Lepton info : electricstuff.co.uk/lepton.html
Lepton datasheet : drive.google.com/file/d/0B3wmCw6bdPqFdXI1bEFnOHdWZTQ/edit
Mike - your lepton teardown was much better! :)
Amazing.
botmonster I agree, Mike went much deeper in to R.E the protocol. Worth a watch Dave Fans !!
Huge props for doing a followup. I know when you were messing it up you were really frustrated and admitting the mini-mistakes is really cool of you to do.
joshcryer Hiding mistakes in blogging is easy, the magic of editing. To me, meh, why bother?
EEVblog Your interaction with followers is the best part. Like when you repaired that TV when you were very close to junking it. Small details.
Did anyone else not see the shutter operate during the closeup when dave says it does?
It happens a few seconds before he says it.
James Grimwood I think SilentS is talking about 6:35 but the shutter is visible in many other moments... looks like there was maybe an edit shift at that moment and the shutter was edited out.
Yeah, it's an obvious edit, Dave's voice changes too quick in that split second, so he probably just didn't catch it on camera or edited it out for another reason.
André Silva Fuck off
joshcryer Yes, I edited out lots of dead time in this video, so obviously goofed that in the edit. The shutter did close a split second before I said that.
Thanks Dave. That was interesting.
13:22 aw I've been waiting for you to use this thing again, it feels like a really long time ago that you last used this!
Yay ! Well done
You could remove the hardware-shutter, but the software would still freeze the picture as it still "thinks" that the view on the sensor is blocked. Maybe there is a sensor connected across the coil in the shutter module ? Put the scope on and have a look ;D
You could do with extracting the data and then throwing it in your thermal box and watching if the data ramps up and then resets after a shutter movement.
I was going to say in earlier videos you should have heated up the glass and helps to free the glue.
Would have been more interesting if you did a teardown and look at Fluke's IR thermometer and sensor!
Right at 2:00 I was going to say use a hair dryer. But you beat me to it
The shutter seems random because it factors in the contrast of the scene. Also, while it does not need the shutter for calibration, it does need it for uniformity correction, since these long wave detectors are notoriously unstable in their gains and offsets.
They might have omitted the temp measurement so they could sell more of the expensive models. Some very expensive pro video gear has options which are unlockable via a key. The hardware and software for the option are present in every unit.
How do they get printed circuit traces running up the side and over to the top?
Really, really, really wish I can afford one of those!
shutter close at 29:38
what is the green thing? lens or filter?
Cool science
I am having this 2 cameras but both persist thermal image shifting problem.
Dave next time try to use heat gun for remove screen cover. Heat will soften the adhesive. :)
Nice one!
I would really love to get my hands on that, or what remains of it... Grovel Grovel lol
it wont be 25 FPS. it can request the data at 25 FPS but it will be "frame doubling" and showing the same frame for a few frame periods. The sensor will still be inherently
*****
so malicious consumers dont use it to make heat seeking stuff which need high frame rate video
***** well rules and regulations are not inherently logical, and they don't need to be
How to handle realtime thermal image shifting problem?
i hate how thing don't let get you inside without max force
Dave, you've been using that Brymen multimeter a lot. Any particular reason?
dwDragon88 I've had it out since the Electronex show, so it's been lying around. I usually use the closest meter to hand that has the probes I want already attached. Meters are always getting leads swapped for other purposes.
They probably use the I2C bus to change color modes
15:00 taking longer for each measurement makes sense. I bet the calibrate is not timer based but "sensor delta from last measurement max has reached xyz", time to re-zero so the reticle temperature is reasonably accurate.
frollard It's definitely not timer based.
EEVblog Would it be possible since there's no obvious data output from the lepton that it's using the IR spot sensor for determining if it needs to cal? I'd love to know what happens if you wave (or keep static) a soldering iron or something in the beam.
Nicolas Daly Doesn't seem likely, because I can find no data coming back into the Lepton from the processor, and hte processor reads the IR sensor. So pretty sure the shutter is controlled internally by the Lepton processor and internal temp sensor.
EEVblog
My guess after watching mikes electric video, it's just a delta between the old known value of the shutter and the new one. Time it takes for the shutter sensor to change x degrees. Explains the longer and longer waits each time as it starts to become neutral to the surroundings.
Does it not seem odd that the MC doesn't know the shutter's been tripped since it freezes the display update when it triggered? Though I guess it could be done in software. Might be another reason for the laggy screen update.
Hi,
I just figured out now that you skipped EEVblog #666 video. You went from 665 to 667. Are you afraid of evil? lol
***** No. If you followed me on twitter or the Amp Hour you'd know why it was skipped.
EEVblog
Sorry, I just follow your videos here :( I must create a twitter account...
***** it's a conspiracy
Sneak attack screws designed to break the item you are trying to fix. Easiest way is a blow dryer and it will pop right off. Its double stick tape. Another option is a couple of drops of charcoal lighter fluid put in the seam. Then wait a few hours and it pops right off. I stuffed a board from a cheap power bank to charge the battery up and put a higher capacity 18560 in it. The charge management on these is horrible btw.
Might it not be less destructive to use a heat gun to break down the glue on things like screens?
Never mind, he mentioned a heat gun.
Don't turn it on !! "Take" it apart !! That is pure violence :) But still very informative
Hey guys, there's a group get for the module I found today. Weirded out that I came across this later O_O
Groupget: groupgets.com/campaigns/31-flir-lepton-thermal-imager-batch-2
Breakout Board: www.tindie.com/products/PureEngineering/flir-lepton-thermal-camera-breakout-2/
EEVblog Next time run it through an X-Ray machine to see it from the insid
Anyone heard anything about the USB power supply that thousands of people are waiting for? I want one.
Ah, the iPhone construction method, bastards.
can you see mice in your walls and ceiling with a thermal camera? like though 1/2inch drywall? or 3/4inch
You will not be able to see your hand when it's in your chamber after closing your glass, or plexiglass door. All LWIR is measurement of the 1st 1000th of an inch of surface temperature. Certain materials allow for transmission and will allow you to see through them like Germanium (optic's typically a thin polished AR Coated Ge wafer) Therefore it's not penetrating or intrusive.. Same concept if he we wearing glasses, you would not see his eyes directly looking at the face you'd see reflection of his glasses which are not allowing the transmission of LWIR.
material costs 20$, will be sold for 700$.
gamerpaddy it's all about earning back the one-time non-recurring costs (of engineering and designing the thing)
Dude . What are you doing ????? Use a pry tool geez
haha bastards could have just put plugs to cover the screw heads and holes but its cheaper to glue on one face than add 4 more parts to the assembly process. #penniesSaved.