What's the Best Personal Anchor System | Five different systems and how to use them
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- This video highlights some of the main rock climbing personal anchor systems. These can be used in single pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and rappelling. Jason Schmaltz is an AMGA professional and guides out of Atlanta all over the South East.
#personalanchors #rockclimbing #climbing
Your PAS should be girth hitched to the tie in points, NOT the belay loop. Metolius specificall states this, and Black Diamond gives a green check for tie-in-points and a warning with belay loop. I've recently subscribed to your channel (and enjoy the vids), but I'm not agreeing with tieing stuff to the belay loop (soft on soft). (RIP Todd Skinner)
Interesting... I knew this was somewhat up for debate but didn't know about this accident. I'm compiling a list of all the stuff I've screwed up on over the last year or so on my episodes and will add this to the list. Then make a compilation video (no jokes on how long it should be).
Thanks for sharing this, I'm going to pin your comment.
Petzl recommends tie-ing their dynamic PAS to the belay loop. I would say you should follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
CAMP Swing documentation says to girth hitch to belay loop
A certified DAV trainer showed me to girth hitch my sling to the belay loop and I've also seen it on other occasions. As far as I know, the belay loop is not specifially designed for soft on soft material (contrary to the tie-in loops, as you mentioned), however as long as you take the PAS off on a regular basis and check the integrity of the material I don't see a particular problem besides possibly accelerated material decay. Also I'd assume the additional stress due to soft on soft friction should be relatively limited (compared to e.g. tying the rope to the belay loop, which should be possible even though not advisable) considering that all displayed systems should be treated as static connections.
@@summitseekersexperience It inspires confidence that you seem to take feedback well, and I appreciate that.
0:36 #1 Climbing rope with clove hitch
2:07 #2 Two 60cm slings
4:09 #3 Dyneema Chain
6:38 #4 Rappel sling 120cm with overhand knots
9:02 #5 Quick Adjust
Thanks for taking the time to put together these videos. Your teaching style is great and the explanations are really helping figure out what gear I need to pick up for my family as we start climbing.
Nice man, I got three rug rats (fourth coming) that I take them climbing as well. That's great that you're getting them out there!
Love your videos! You are good at teaching and straight to the important point. Thank you so much!
for sure, thanks for the compliment!
Thanks for your videos Jason! I really appreciate them!!
Really appreciate your videos Jason!! Keep it up.
for sure
You make good videos and I learn as a new outside climber. Thanks
the petzl connect adjust/camp swing system is by far the nicest. worth the cost!
for sure
Good stuff, thanks!
I keep having southpark flashbacks everytime he says "mmmkay!"
I was taught to use the 120cm sling system, but with a clove hitch on the carabiner. That way I can adjust the length of the PAS freely (just like you show whem using only the rope). You will still need a single overhand knot on the 120cm sling, to use for extended rappel (and ensure that your girth hitch on the harness doesn't slip).
Interesting, I may try that variation.
recommendation: extend your ATC or whatever device on that 120 with a clove hitch as well. Makes the untying process at the bottom much easier and you can adjust your ATC location easier.
Thanks for this video. Very timely for me. Clove hitch, handshake method, where can I find how to tie this.
Hey John! I plan to do a whole series on knots and variations of tying them. For now, just use the Mickey Mouse ears as I did that for years.
Caution with use of the adjustable PAS; under full body weight some may not allow any extension. Not an issue, per se, but on a Tyrolean across a creek, I found myself hanging from my pulley with my feet a foot above the nice branch I needed to step onto, unable to let any slack into the PAS. Finally had to remove my pack and toss it onto dry land, then heel hook the rope to invert so I could finally unweight the PAS sling. I could foresee any number of situations on big walls where similar situations might arise, so learn all the unexpected aspects of any new gizmo before finding yourself in a dilemma.
I'm a fan of the rope on ascent and a 120 cm sling for handling decents. The rope is there and the 120 sling can be used for many other things like anchor building. Personal anchor systems I'm sure are handy but that is all they can do. They also seem to clutter up the harness as they can't be slung over the shoulder like a sling can. I'm older and resistance to change sometimes. Maybe those new fangled PAS are the way to go. 😁
You got it man, when I’m doing multi for performance (not guiding), it’s clove hitch on the way up and 120 sling on the way down.
@@summitseekersexperience, I guided on Devil's Tower and the Needles of the Black Hills in South Dakota back in the 1990's. Fun times. Thanks for making videos.
Dude, guide me on Devils Tower!!!
@@summitseekersexperience, anytime you want to make the trip, I'm in the area. 😉
@@FlatOutFE Can I come too!?😁
Notice: Tying a knot in any sling (including Dyneema) can reduce the sling's strength by over 50%.
yeah... but then you have roughly 10 kN... so don't eat cookies that day ;-)
Thanks a bunch! I appreciated! AlpineSavvy mocks people who have PAS when top roping sports route. He says you should use 2 quickdraws for it. What do you think? I learned that it is a good habit to always have a pas on you.
If I'm going to use a PAS, I prefer to have locking carabiners on it so if I used a quick draw, it would have lockers.
nice video !
🙌
What about x1 60cm nylon sling + the clove hitch with the rope? Is that still redundant and acceptable? New outdoor sports climber here
how do you tie a clove hitch when the lanyard is weighted?
Wondering this myself
last one is the best for safety because it is a dynamic rope, slings will support perfectly body weight but are not good for a big shock, it could happen if you lift your body over the anchor system for any reason then you fall, beginner may not think about that possibility. I don t like the idea of doing a clove hitch on the anchor rope because the distance will never be the same and in best set up you should use of a prusik clipped on the belay loop, have to make sure the prusik could never reach the ATC, so need to verify that distance between ATC and prusik. In my opinion, to get that safer better having a set up already done and tested on the ground and simply having it all the time and use it when needed. I am using a dynamic rope fixed with a figure 8 knot on my harness and a figure 8 knot on the end of the rope with a auto block karabiner, there is a butterfly loop in between right at the distance required for a good rappelling. My prusik rope is set on a way it could never reach the ATC. When you are a the top of your route and you are thirsty and tired it is better to have a setup already done. This is my opinion, a lot of people will prefer to keep a high polyvalence with the use of lighter and more flexible gears instead of allocating to a gear only one or two functions, probably even more in multi pitch situation. All this depend of the experience for sure.
Great video, thanks. It would be cool to get your opinion on a purcell prusik personal anchor system. I use 5 or 6mm cord that is looped back on itself with a prusik, so it is adjustable and much cheaper than buying the easy-adjust etc, and it can be shortened when climbing so doesn't get in the way. I guess the only drawback is that it is static cord rather than dynamic rope, but then if I were to fall at the anchor then prussik knot itself would slip a little and tighten up and thus absorb some of the shock compared to a nylon sling or daisy chain. Like this: th-cam.com/video/7R9-EBU-EPs/w-d-xo.html
Also like this, with a shelf that could be used for extended rappel set up: th-cam.com/video/PxImyrxOlEY/w-d-xo.html
That is really interesting, thanks for sharing. I had never heard of that kind of prusik POS. I would have to use it a couple of times and see how it does in practice before I had a good opinion to give but looks like it's worth checking out. Thanks for showing me this!
I also use the Purcell Prusik Loop. Big fan and have been using it for 9 years as my main PAS.
Think of the major flaw you have in tying the Clove hitch. It is fetal, not the knot but what you did.
What did he do?
Isnt it wrong calling that a "daisy chain" ? That is rated loops, isnt daisy chain a sling with sewn-on-loops that are not rated for attaching yourself to?