Great vid thanks for the lesson and sharing knowledge wisc I could meet u someday and shake your hand not enough people like you in the world tks bro carry on
Good great video Robert thanks for taking the time to come back and doing it, my name is Gabriel and I am a new subscriber schooling myself to do a transgo shift kit in my truck very soon as it is just starting to give a very small hard shift going into 2nd gear. I really hope this kit fixes my problem.
07 Hummer H2 4l65e 2nd and 4th went out with only 20000 On rebuilt trans. Where can I find the tool that checks to see if the correct pin was used? Corvette servo was installed.
Hello.... I have a chevy Silverado 2012 with 187K. My 4L60E shifts fine without any slippage in 1st & 2nd gear. But when shifting into 3rd gear I have total slippage. When I let off the accelerator and the RPM falls to where 3rd gear let go, then it takes 3rd gear and will pull without any slippage. But after 3rd gear does energizes, I either do not have over drive or forth gear, I can't tell which one I do not have. Where do I go from here. Thank you. Frank.
18 years ago, after putting a Whipple supercharger kit on the 5.3 in my 2002 Avalanche, I put a Transgo shift kit with Corvette servo in the 4l60e. Everything turned out OK, the transmission even had a slight bind on the 2-3 under light acceleration originally from the factory (I'm the original owner). The guy who sold me the kit penciled in some hole size changes in the valve body plate to address the 2-3 bind, I followed all the instructions and the bind was gone with all the shifts nice and solid. However, the 1-2 shift was firmer than the rest of them, and when I put the trans in tow/haul mode, that made the 1-2 shift dangerously harsh. Using tow/haul makes all shifts a little firmer and it also winds out each gear a little longer, and also delays the TCC. All the shifts worked well in tow/haul except for the 1-2 being too harsh, and I like to use tow/haul when pulling a trailer, so I had to let it make the 1-2 before engaging tow/haul, then remember to cancel tow/haul every time I came to a stop. I didn't care for what the Corvette servo does to the 1-2 shift because it makes using tow/haul a hassle. Now at 120K miles later I am replacing the trans with a Monster unit. I made the order last week and the lead time is 6 to 8 weeks. I saw that their level 2 shift firmness package includes a Corvette servo, and I told the guy over the phone when ordering to put in the build notes that I do not want a 1-2 shift that is too harsh in tow/haul mode. The rep on the phone said he put that request in the notes and it will be addressed. I don't know what exactly they will do, but I don't want a savage 1-2 shift again. I also talked to another transmission guy who told me he does not care for the Corvette servo in a heavy truck either. That hard 1-2 shift is one thing in a car that weighs less than 4000 lbs, but another thing entirely in a truck that weighs 6000 lbs.
So random guy, I dont know much about transmission but, I read the shift kit address weak 1-2 shifts so a 2nd gear servo becomes overkill after a good shift kit.
@@jeffreymedina304 I tried to include a warning about doing business with a particular online transmission shop but the comments are rigged and won't let it thru. Which explains why I never see anything bad written about them here. I had a reputable guy start with a GM crate reman 4L60e and build it to 4L65e specs. He used the Raybestos combo clutch discs that have friction on one side and steel on the other instead of separate steels and frictions, 5 gear planetary, 13 vane pump, stock pump pressure regulator with no bump up pressure spring, roller bearing shim washers, no Corvette servo. I installed it last summer along with a reman transfer case and it shifts solid, perfect for a heavier truck. There is a solenoid on the right rear of the valve body that controls the system pressure. I had to dial this in myself. There is a #15 torx set screw on the back of the solenoid, if you turn it about 1/2 turn it will make a big difference. It can be set so the 1-2 shift will get rubber on part throttle, this is way too hard and will break something. I set it so it is nice and firm but still not too hard when in tow mode. There was labor involved because each time you have to drain the unit, pull the pan, unplug the electrical plug from the solenoid to expose the screw which takes some fiddling with a small tool to unlock the plug, turn the screw a fraction of a turn with a small torx tool that can fit in a tight spot, it has to be angle shaped like a small Allen wrench (turn clockwise = firmer) then put it all back together, refill the unit, test drive and evaluate. I had to do this several times to get it exactly where I want it. If the pressure is set too low then there will be binding in the shifts and if the pressure is set too high the shifts will be too harsh. You have to find the Goldilocks zone.
I am struggling to understand how much the big cushion spring behind the cover in the 2nd piston affects both 2nd gear and 3rd gear engagement. I have put in the HD 2-3 Valve, a corvette servo, and I think I am going to block the 3-2 valves. It seems logical to grind the notches in the cover, but will this make my 3rd gear excessively firm? Or, how would making the springs in this location stiffer or softer affect both shifts?
How crucial is the low/reverse check ball in the cup at the rear of the case? Right under the auxiliary valve body? I’ve seen them gone and was just curious. Thanks!
As best I can tell, this is just there to slow engagement but keep release quick. Did you notice there are orifices on either side of the ball even when seated?
Hi Robert, very good precentation. My Transgo stg 2 shift kit doesnt mention the cutting the disc ! Should i cut mine ? I will b installing Vette servo in my Aussie 4l60E 2000 model commodore GM 3800 L67 V6. Thnk u very much !!!
Is there anyway this can cause a loss of 2nd and 4th gear? I have a brand new transmission and less than 1000 miles. Got hot on me while pulling an empty trailer. Pulled over to let it cool and have had no 2nd or 4th since.
Hi, Thanks for video, I have 2000 Pontiac Firebird base 3.8L V-6, I have some issues with my transmission , it's shifts from 1 to second, but has no 3 or 4 I went to autozone and they check engine light , there was code which pointing to solenoids, Do you familiar with such problem, and what you think it could be?.Thanks
I recently bought a 2011 chevy Colorado 2.9 with a 4 speed AT an 4L60e and starting to make some upgrades for a drift truck project. I already put a transgo shift kit also bought a B&M quick silver shifter to throw the shifts to floor... And my super servo 2-4 already arrived so im planning to do all those upgrades in a few days more. Also thinking in get a hp transmission oil cooler... what not to expensive upgrades can i make to the transmission spend 350dlls for shift kit and labor 175dlls for ready to put super servo i will try to do that job myself. And 200 for the shifter Who's in da same channel to built a drift truck project ??? Saludos desde Ensenada México 🍀🎶🍻🤘
What is the actual purpose of the additional spring? The transgo kit I am using adds two springs plus a spacer on the end of them, really tightens it up. Thank you for this as well as your other 4l60 videos! This is my first rebuild, you and some others have been a big help.
Would like to replace my servo in a 2009 chevy avalanche vin number yv4a22pl251322044.I'm having a problem finding out which kit i need.Any help would you be appreciated.Thanks Ken
why would my servo have three springs inside of it? You explained having two being part of a shift kit, but three seems excessive, also there was no spacer. I'm not sure who "built" this truck but it don't make no sense lol.
Mr. R&R Got 89 GMC TRUCK WITH A 700R4 & IT STARTED TO LEAK OIL FROM THE SERVO SO CAN YOU! PLS TELL ME HOW FIX/REPAIR LEAK! /THANK YOU! GILBERT CRUZ TUCSON,AZ.
Well the blue oring is the one that seals the servo cover to the case pull the servo out see if oring is cut and replace it check it close to verify it is not cracked
Mr.R&R I would like to Thankyou! For your expertise! There is nothing like getting advice from a pro! I'd like to give you my Mr.MVP award on professional knowledge thank you for your response your awesome keep up the good work once again thank you so much and God bless you Gilbert Cruz Tucson Arizona
Nice video my friend, hey i have a question 4 you, i have a 2004 Tahoe with a 4L60E and bought a new Sonnax complete servo kit ( 2nd & 4th gears super hold ) but i was reading the instruction and it say the pin or rod ( included in the kit ) should be grind it on the tip not too much not too little to avoid the trabby getting stocked in 2nd, could you please give some tips of the right amount i should grind off of it?? Thanks in advance
@Offroad Rider. The ring shown comes with a Transgo jr shift kit. Transgo makes a higher end complete shift as well this spacer ring comes in also. A couple of things not shown at the same time is the 3rd check ball in a capsule or called captured. If apart, pour a small amount of ATF - Solvent mixed at 50-50, into the case side 3rd apply cavity. It bleeds air our upon 3rd apply to push the 2nd accum/piston inside the servo back releasing the band. If the check ball leaks into the inside of the case, the ball needs replaced. Some plug it, but that traps air & fluid under pressure and causes a late band release as 3rd clutch is applied. It’s about timing as one is applied, another is released. If timing is wrong, the 2-3 upshift will be spongy, too hard or wear out the 2-4 band quicker or burn up the 3rd clutch quicker. It’s all very simple after doing this for 40 years. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired Also check Superior super hold 4th and their servo “K012 & K034” as I think this is the best replace servo assembly on the market. Eliminates springs, spacers and provides more holding / clamping that the Corvette servo. It’s PSI X Surface Area.
@@deankay4434 do you like it better than sonnax servo? from 40 years what if you dont mind telling me do you set the band clearance? which boost valve do you prefer? I can put one together and make it work right if go by factory specs. soon as i started messing with servos and wide bands, its making me realise its gonna take me a long time to get out of the Novice stage. thanks
@@dreece2000 That a lot of days in the saddle Pilgram to cover that ground. Ok, too many hours of a John Wayne marathon at the hospital. Sonnax servos are heavy cupped shaped disc that will not wear on the pin, bore & skinny seals. Cheap insurance as these move up and down every time that gear shifts. Band clearance is about 0.12" or enough to allow the input shaft/drum to move with one have once released. Just make sure the drum is next to new as bands sold are wider. Now they run on a thicker part while the rest of the friction rides on scratches in a record with oil. The pressure valve is best using the 0.50" that everyone sells but change reverse boost as well. Look at the pressure chart. Manual 1st, Reverse have the highest PSI. You want good holding power for the band and clutch frictions. I've never seen the snap ring blow out the input drum but Sonnax will be happy to sell $550 worth of fix and sneak an extra friction in. I prefer spending time at 3rd with Alto Red Eagle friction and Kolene steels. At the start, good complete pressure to entire pack from fingers and 9 frictions fit great with 0.23" gap after using air to seat them 3 or 4 times. Remember, that is almost spark plug gap on a weed eater. Don't forget the rear case side captured check balls as 3rd relies on it passing to the servos in the case circuit. I never trust the release captured ball on the band apply cavity either. Some say use a #4 easy out but I found a 3/8" X 18 tap works great. When it stops, look to see the steel case w/ball move. STOP! Now, lay a plate of steel across the valve body aluminum to protect it, vise grip and roll-head pry bar it out. I have a slide hammer with vise grips that work well in this spot. Also, use the 2-liter coke bottle trick on the shaft seals and trans gel. Slide the bottom one on first and follow up. If you re-size them by hand, they will relax but still need insurance. Just cut the side of the plastic coke bottle out a little taller as it is slippery and wide enough to wrap around the sealing rings at least 1 1/2 times. Longer does not hurt. Since it is clear, look at your seals to make sure they are home. I place 4 or 5 large O-rings over night to start, the next day with hose clamps and I mean the worm screw type and just snug them down. works great! Best of luck!
@@dreece2000 Wow, a lot of ground to cover in a reply. Using the wider band is always job one to order. Start with a new drum as remanufactured drums are lathe turned and smaller, but the Sonnax website has a cool break down of 700R4 parts and what each one does. I like the pinless accumulator piston as it has basically nothing to wear out or break as the OEM can do. Use the Sonnax sun shell as it transfers the load better while having less chance of breakage. You don't need the $500+ input shaft-drum kit unless you are running 700 HP W/Turbo. I was really impressed with the Alto Red Eagle frictions over Raybestos as the steels are Kolene treated. This allows for hardly any chance of heat warpage and run thinner in #3 clutch pack. The original 6 friction can be 9 friction with still having 0.28" end play. I take photos of set up, result of measurements and would have to refer to the final result. Just plan on finding broken springs, damage separator plate after being beat on 70 thousand times. What, Transgo I think has one listed with a Jr Shift kit and plan on getting it. Double check the two captured check valves especially the3rd dump case circuit in the rear of the valve body next to the governor filter and 4th accumulator body I think. It operates as an exhaust when shifted out of third. The problem is it gets hammered during hard upshifts and can wear thru and the check ball fall out into the case or sit in the valve body and do nothing. Also, get the Transgo TV cable valve fixer kit. It comes with grooves that capture oil and have an extra front spring so it can't stick. They give a choice of spring by color that allow use behind different engines and this flat metal plate that goes into the spring to limit it travel without masking the TV valve move. Also, look online by typing TH700R4 repair. Not ATRA but some other group published a kinda manual with the history, identification of parts, good ones, bad ones and some step by step stuff. I save it on a now dead laptop, so SOL as they say. As far as band tightness, always install stuff wet, hit it with air to work if can before checking. But if you can turn the input shaft by hand, you should be good to go. I guess, slightly less than snug when not applied. The Transgo Jr Shift kit provides a rounded tip that can be added depending on what happen as you go together, but using the bench grinder to remove material to make a shorter band rod if needed, just make sure it has the same radius as before. Without TH-cam or digital cameras you would be at the "Photo Booth" waiting on snap shots. I wore the ears off two brother who worked in the towns repair shop. They built race cars for the 1/4 mile tracks side-by-side with only a couple of bedsheets to hide their tricks. Funny to think of it now he has passed. That's life. Will Rodger's the American Humorist was asked about going into politics and he replied he would retire first, after all you start to die as soon as you are born. Being in politics only speeds the process up and guides the direction downward! Hope this helps.
What did the grinding and added spring do that the stock setup wasn't? Does the stock setup hydrolock? I've watched quite a few vids and it's the first I've seen anything about the 3rd accumulator mentioned. It's always about the corvette servo.
Do these come pre built? Or is it always a matter of tearing the old one out and rebuilding it with updated parts? Is it beneficial or necessary to change the rod?
On my 2000 Silverado i have this servo in a 4l60e .the piston and accumulator for 3rd gear are shot and I have to replace all of it. Could That possibly by why it won't shift into 3rd at all? If so any one know how that even happens so I can fix and prevent a repeat? Thanx guys
Hi I got an 07 GMC Sierra 2 wheel drive with the 5.3/4l60e Ive always found the shifts a bit lazy or sloppy. Dealership told me its normal. What servo can i go with to firm up these shifts? And do they all physically fit my trans or should i be carefull which to purchase? Ive seen some Corvette servos online, and the Sonnax servo... Thank you kindly
Does the lost of the overdrive or the 4th gear on the 4l60e have something to do with the servo? I reassemble my stock servo and since i lost the overdrive what could it be?
I do appreciate all your great videos but you indicated that if we have any questions to just ask. I have a few unanswered questions you have not respond for a some time if you can't help me please let me know so I don't waste my time and ask someone else. I have done some work on the 2003 chevy truck 4L60E I have found that I think instead of lagging back from 1st gear to 2nd I think the trans. is miss 2nd gear and shifting to 3nd gear. I can manually shift from 1st to 2nd and it will not go in but when I continue to 3nd it will shift so I think it is passing 2nd so what could cause that problem. Please let me know what you think ASAP. Thanks Keith
I'm sorry for the delay in response to your question but I have been very busy in the shop you are right I did say if you had a question just ask so let's get to your problem. If you are missing second gear it is normally a band problem however you should also be missing 4th gear if it's a band if you have 4th I would start with shift solenoid if the solenoid is ok then I would remove the servo I hope this helps
@@robertrushton6622 Will sorry for my late reply I took the truck out to make sure 4th gear is working it is definitely working could get up to 70 MPH then down shift to 3rd. I have no scan codes because of the short I fixed in the dash broad that killed the battery and cleared all the codes. So can you tell me what solenoid I need to change if it is bad it should have a short or a open circuit right and if I need to check anything else I put a rebuilt servo piston in it last weekend so that should be good. Thanks
I have a question. I rebuilt my 4l60E at 365k miles and have 50k miles on rebuild. One morning, it no longer had 2nd gear. I have been driving daily with it shifting to 3rd and fourth, TCC lockup. I researched that it might be my apply pin was too short. I had already taken the servo out to check the split seals and put it back. Pulled pan and replaced solenoids couple weeks ago. Today, I pulled the servo and replaced the apply pin with a longer one. Now my original pin has 2 recessed grooves in the cone. The replacement pin has 3 raised ribs on the cone. So, swapped them out. Test drove and now only have 1st gear. I am waiting for it to cool down , so I can pull it and swap out pins or see what I missed. But, hey brother, would you have any idea why I lost 2nd gear. Had it night before, then next morning, no 2nd gear. I am completely stumped now. I also forgot to mention that I have reverse still as well.
@@ernie7123 Hey Ernie, I made a manual switch box after being unable to find a local trans shop to see if the ECM was commanding it to shift gears. It was not. My ECM lost its "Flash" and I was able to buy a reflashed ECM on ebay reasonable cost. The truck runs good as new, even fixed a weird sound at idle which mechanics said was a bad lifter. Nope, ECM was doing weird stuff. The Manual Switchbox is simple and cheap to make and is a very handy tool to have on hand. Lets you eliminate a lot of guessing without having to rely on expensive diagnostic machine only dealers and high end shops keep, but apparently would rather tell you the trans is shot and needs to be rebuilt. I got 70k miles on that one and had it not lost the flash to ECM and me driving around like that and then I made the mistake of driving it with the manual switchbox which is a lot of fun but you are shifting gears and driving under full line pressure which is not healthy thing to do. checkout facebook forum 4l60E DIY rebuilders
I installed a carvette servo into my 02 chevy with the 4l60. It was working fine I just wanted to get a smoother shift but after I installed the new servo everything shifts good but it wont go into overdrive. I made sure that I assembled it correctly when I installed it and I'm not sure what's causing it not to engage.
are you sure you have second gear, I have seen were a servo missed the band and you will lose 2nd and 4th, when the 1-2 shift should happen around 15mph its still in 1st until around 30mph miss second and go into 3rd. if that's not it you will to recheck your seal rings on the servo.
Hi Robert! If there's a cut seal somewhere on the 2-4 servo... would/ can it cause a slide to bump 1-2 shift and a little to no feel 3-4 shift? Think I have a cut servo seal on my 05 Tahoe I just rebuilt... thanks for any help!
Great explanation on how the servo works. I just rebuilt a 4L60E and have a real harsh 3-4 Shift. Could that be due to a problem with the 3rd gear accumulator in the servo?
this could be the only 4l60e ever to have that symptom. not being ugly but by design its just difficult to have a harsh 3/4 shift. sounds like you got a really good transmission.
@@dreece2000 I will say their is a captured check valve that is in the case that is exhaust for the 3-4 shift. Unless you have a tool to put a 50/50 mixture of ATF & Solvent behind it to check for leakage, it is about the only mechanical thing that might cause it. It's removed with the VB off and the book says to use a #4 easy-out. I never knew they were numbered. I found a 3/8" - 16 TPI tap would grab it and with a metal plate across the aluminum VB case worm tracks, pry up and out with vise grips and pry bar. Use a punch the same as the hole to drive it in and they give you a measurement I can't remember. But the capture ball has a steel cage that bottoms out about 5/16" below the surface, so not much. Otherwise leave it alone and wear a smile!
Hello all, I know this is an old thread but, I have a 07 Yukon that has the 4l60e that went bad. I replaced it with what I thought was an upgraded trans (4l70e). The trans had no gears and I ended up replacing the valve body with a refurbished one. To make a long story, by replacing the valve body I got proper shifting. I don't have 4th gear though. The computer commands the shift and it changes into 4th but there is no reduction in rpms while on the gas. If I take my foot off the throttle it freely goes down to where 4thr rpms should be.
have a 1995 k1500 chevy 4x4 ext. cab runs great but no 2nd gear ? 1st is fine 3rd and 4th is good thinking of getting a new trans. but don't have the cash . i know you can't know for sure or maybe you can from what i told you if you have time tell me what ya think please i love the truck cuzz i get to take my dog "bandit" with me it makes him very happy . i;ve tryed to get him to ride the bike with me but he just doesn't seem to get the hang of riding on the back of my bike ...... maybe i need to think side/car ; ) i don;t even know how you answer me but i did subscriebe yeah i can't spell thanks you have a fantastic day
I tore down a 85 Corvette 700r4 and when I remove that same servo and found a spring broke into three pieces and the apply rod was in about three or four pieces. Do you know what could have caused this. I don't want to rebuild it and have the same problem. The transmission came out of a wrecked Corvette Thanks for any help
Mickey Locklear - It has been a year since your question, but in 1985 was almost the first year it was made. It would be easy to find 13 suggested updates to do including increase the drain-back hole under the front seal and install the new retainer for it. That's 2. Accumulator pistons take a beating as the move as you shift into gear and as it shifts out. These wear, crack, break and can ruin your case. Same thing for the rear case captured check ball, next to the 4th filters. Large springs break and accumulators will pound the snot out of the separator plate. Go onto your favorite search engine, type in 700R4 modifications. A printable PDF full of explanations and diagrams from some "National Transmission" service group put this out there. I highly recommend updating the pumps pressure valve to 0.50" and install the Sonnax reverse boost valve. Superior can not be beat for size and apply pressure in the servo assembly. Get the 4th w/cover and third together. Much better than the Corvette servo everyone sells. I don't know the mileage on my donor but the captured check balls are over looked. If you need a non-cable VSS, install the 40 tooth tone ring in place of the plastic drive gear. Go to Rock Auto under 92-93 Camero and get the connector, sensor and tone ring. Clean with scotchbrite / Acetone and red Loctite in place. If you have a bearing race and pipe that will drive it onto the output shaft straight, it will not break. No clip is required, just stop at witness mark or use a file, tape & photo. Then the planetaries. I went all front/rear ACDelco 5 gear. The rear has a Torrington bearing and cover machined to fit. It adds 30% more torque the OEM and found in the 4L65E. Use the Sonnax Sun Shell and it transfers the load path to more surface area. In other words. plan on a valve body plate, Jr. shift kit, TV repair valve kit the use lock-up with hydraulic pressure instead of the ECM or a vacuum switch. I bought a temp gauge and used wires in the connector for ground and signal. It is a NTC thermistor and bolt a bracket on the VB. This holds it on the fluid before it leaves the trans and will be more accurate. The Alto Red Eagle frictions with Kolene steels are far beyond Raybestos. The steel plates are heated in a salt-solution and frozen in nitrogen to provide excellent heat transfer per 1,000 of an inch and wear and don't warp like others. Heat kills everything except a mean mother-in-law, so get a cooler on it. I grabbed an import A/C condenser with fan that was not tall but longer than most. I placed it underneath with a louvered rock guard on it. $5 dollar bought a adjustable thermal controller that has an NTC thermistor and degrees F adjustment so it comes on at 180 F. Condensers for R134a are more efficient than and handle 450 PSI easy as the trans cooler circuit runs at 8-12 PSI. I just stuck the sensor bulb/stick into the fins near the return pipe as i want it to warm up in the winter but stay cool under loads. 13 updates and 32 other mods will get you a snake charmer. Otherwise, make it go & sell it. Otherwise, I don't know anything about these transmissions!
Hi, thanks for the great video. You seem to know these 4L60e pretty well, I have a question for you, please: My 4L60e had a cheap, rounded off lower cooler line that popped out mid-trip on the highway, losing a lot of fluid. I stopped, put the line back in, a added a few quarts of fluid and wanted to limp it home. Got it moving forward again, but it did it again a few miles up the road. Little buggar felt solid but kept popping out while driving. Anyway, it took about 3 tries like this, then I used tie-wraps to secure the line in and I finally got it home. It seemed to be slipping a bit but at 4 o'clock in the morning, who really cares? I have since changed the tip, using a newer, more squared-off tip that will be held in place by the C-clip (but I'm thinking of leaving the tie-wraps for good measure). Now, she slips in 2nd at about 2500rpms and will need to go to 4500-5000rpms to shift to 3rd when in 'D'. If I move the lever to '2' she's fine, no slipping at all. I haven't tried highway speed yet to see how she acts in '4' because I don't want to drive it too much before I know what is wrong with it, I'd like to avoid doing more damage. What do you think, where should I be fixing? Thanks for any help that you can provide. Have a good day.
I have a 93 Chevy Van G20 4.3 v6 with a 4L60E transmission it jerks going into drive and jerks going into reverse and it shifts hard 1st to 2nd and all the other gears 2nd through overdrive shift smooth an hour I change the filter and fluid up change the throttle position sensor I don't know what the problem is sometimes it'll shift smooth and sometimes it'll shift hard sometimes the shifting smooth the last from a date to a month and the shifting hard and just from a month to a year but it's aggravating and I'm trying to fix that problem if you have any information on it please let me know what it is and what I need to do to fix it please thank you I'm Ray
@Rick Samson - Buy the Superior 4th w/cover and 3rd. New wide band with servo installed should move by hand. If tight, grind a small radius off the pin, retry.
yes the vette servo will increase shit speed and feel but we should still use the springs that come with the shift kit. there will be different springs used on the accumulator valve in the valve body that is dependent on what servo you us.
the grinding of the servo cover is so fluid will escape and not hydro lock the servo. the reason for not using a corvette servo is shift feel this is for a Tahoe and need a smooth shift.
Gave Rob a call at his shop.
He was very nice and helpful with some questions on my 700r4. He knows his stuff.
Thank you Rob, for the education.
whats his number?
One of the best videos I've ever watched on TH-cam!
Great vid thanks for the lesson and sharing knowledge wisc I could meet u someday and shake your hand not enough people like you in the world tks bro carry on
Lots of great information here. Thank you for posting this and sharing your knowledge.
thanks for watching
did I miss why the 4 grooves were cut into the spring retainer? thanks
Hell of a job 👏 explaining about this best video i've seen on it, and i've watched at least 10 thanks sub to u also
Hi..i have buy a corvette servo end a superior blue ruturn spring..where goes this spring?
Good great video Robert thanks for taking the time to come back and doing it, my name is Gabriel and I am a new subscriber schooling myself to do a transgo shift kit in my truck very soon as it is just starting to give a very small hard shift going into 2nd gear. I really hope this kit fixes my problem.
should there be and gap in between the servo pin and small spring and washer that sits under the C clip.. mine has around 40 thousandths gap. thanks
07 Hummer H2 4l65e
2nd and 4th went out with only 20000
On rebuilt trans. Where can I find the tool that checks to see if the correct pin was used? Corvette servo was installed.
Great job explaining this. Thanks
Great video
I have a 2007 hummer h3 3.7 no 2nd no 4th gear you think I have servo issues ? Thanks in advance
Hello.... I have a chevy Silverado 2012 with 187K. My 4L60E shifts fine without any slippage in 1st & 2nd gear. But when shifting into 3rd gear I have total slippage. When I let off the accelerator and the RPM falls to where 3rd gear let go, then it takes 3rd gear and will pull without any slippage. But after 3rd gear does energizes, I either do not have over drive or forth gear, I can't tell which one I do not have. Where do I go from here. Thank you. Frank.
18 years ago, after putting a Whipple supercharger kit on the 5.3 in my 2002 Avalanche, I put a Transgo shift kit with Corvette servo in the 4l60e. Everything turned out OK, the transmission even had a slight bind on the 2-3 under light acceleration originally from the factory (I'm the original owner). The guy who sold me the kit penciled in some hole size changes in the valve body plate to address the 2-3 bind, I followed all the instructions and the bind was gone with all the shifts nice and solid. However, the 1-2 shift was firmer than the rest of them, and when I put the trans in tow/haul mode, that made the 1-2 shift dangerously harsh. Using tow/haul makes all shifts a little firmer and it also winds out each gear a little longer, and also delays the TCC. All the shifts worked well in tow/haul except for the 1-2 being too harsh, and I like to use tow/haul when pulling a trailer, so I had to let it make the 1-2 before engaging tow/haul, then remember to cancel tow/haul every time I came to a stop. I didn't care for what the Corvette servo does to the 1-2 shift because it makes using tow/haul a hassle.
Now at 120K miles later I am replacing the trans with a Monster unit. I made the order last week and the lead time is 6 to 8 weeks. I saw that their level 2 shift firmness package includes a Corvette servo, and I told the guy over the phone when ordering to put in the build notes that I do not want a 1-2 shift that is too harsh in tow/haul mode. The rep on the phone said he put that request in the notes and it will be addressed. I don't know what exactly they will do, but I don't want a savage 1-2 shift again. I also talked to another transmission guy who told me he does not care for the Corvette servo in a heavy truck either. That hard 1-2 shift is one thing in a car that weighs less than 4000 lbs, but another thing entirely in a truck that weighs 6000 lbs.
So random guy, I dont know much about transmission but, I read the shift kit address weak 1-2 shifts so a 2nd gear servo becomes overkill after a good shift kit.
@@jeffreymedina304 I tried to include a warning about doing business with a particular online transmission shop but the comments are rigged and won't let it thru. Which explains why I never see anything bad written about them here.
I had a reputable guy start with a GM crate reman 4L60e and build it to 4L65e specs. He used the Raybestos combo clutch discs that have friction on one side and steel on the other instead of separate steels and frictions, 5 gear planetary, 13 vane pump, stock pump pressure regulator with no bump up pressure spring, roller bearing shim washers, no Corvette servo. I installed it last summer along with a reman transfer case and it shifts solid, perfect for a heavier truck.
There is a solenoid on the right rear of the valve body that controls the system pressure. I had to dial this in myself. There is a #15 torx set screw on the back of the solenoid, if you turn it about 1/2 turn it will make a big difference. It can be set so the 1-2 shift will get rubber on part throttle, this is way too hard and will break something. I set it so it is nice and firm but still not too hard when in tow mode. There was labor involved because each time you have to drain the unit, pull the pan, unplug the electrical plug from the solenoid to expose the screw which takes some fiddling with a small tool to unlock the plug, turn the screw a fraction of a turn with a small torx tool that can fit in a tight spot, it has to be angle shaped like a small Allen wrench (turn clockwise = firmer) then put it all back together, refill the unit, test drive and evaluate. I had to do this several times to get it exactly where I want it. If the pressure is set too low then there will be binding in the shifts and if the pressure is set too high the shifts will be too harsh. You have to find the Goldilocks zone.
If 3rd and 4th dont engage and transbonly goes into second will this servo be the fix?
Hello if a Corvette servo pin is installed with the junior kit,is necessary to put the spacer washer?
I am struggling to understand how much the big cushion spring behind the cover in the 2nd piston affects both 2nd gear and 3rd gear engagement. I have put in the HD 2-3 Valve, a corvette servo, and I think I am going to block the 3-2 valves. It seems logical to grind the notches in the cover, but will this make my 3rd gear excessively firm? Or, how would making the springs in this location stiffer or softer affect both shifts?
I have a question why 4l60 not use the one piece piston servo why for 2nd and for 4th piston in cover🤔
How crucial is the low/reverse check ball in the cup at the rear of the case? Right under the auxiliary valve body? I’ve seen them gone and was just curious. Thanks!
Same question...
I've been told if removed you have faster reverse engagement
As best I can tell, this is just there to slow engagement but keep release quick. Did you notice there are orifices on either side of the ball even when seated?
if anyone else is looking for this info, watch my video on vacuum testing the case and I discuss it
Hi Robert, very good precentation. My Transgo stg 2 shift kit doesnt mention the cutting the disc ! Should i cut mine ? I will b installing Vette servo in my Aussie 4l60E 2000 model commodore GM 3800 L67 V6. Thnk u very much !!!
It will make the 2-3 shift a little faster with less of a flair
Thanks a lot this gave me an idea how to do it myself.
What's the trick in getting the retainer Spring Back into the case that retains the outer cover? Thank you!
i am installing a corvette servo but no shit kit should i still grind the 4 slots?
Is there anyway this can cause a loss of 2nd and 4th gear? I have a brand new transmission and less than 1000 miles. Got hot on me while pulling an empty trailer. Pulled over to let it cool and have had no 2nd or 4th since.
Hi, Thanks for video, I have 2000 Pontiac Firebird base 3.8L V-6, I have some issues with my transmission , it's shifts from 1 to second, but has no 3 or 4
I went to autozone and they check engine light , there was code which pointing to solenoids, Do you familiar with such problem, and what you think it could be?.Thanks
I recently bought a 2011 chevy Colorado 2.9 with a 4 speed AT an 4L60e and starting to make some upgrades for a drift truck project. I already put a transgo shift kit also bought a B&M quick silver shifter to throw the shifts to floor... And my super servo 2-4 already arrived so im planning to do all those upgrades in a few days more. Also thinking in get a hp transmission oil cooler...
what not to expensive upgrades can i make to the transmission spend 350dlls for shift kit and labor
175dlls for ready to put super servo i will try to do that job myself.
And 200 for the shifter
Who's in da same channel to built a drift truck project ???
Saludos desde Ensenada México 🍀🎶🍻🤘
What is the actual purpose of the additional spring? The transgo kit I am using adds two springs plus a spacer on the end of them, really tightens it up.
Thank you for this as well as your other 4l60 videos! This is my first rebuild, you and some others have been a big help.
I put in a corvette servo I noticed my original sero had spacer why? Jw I put the spacer in same spot just not sure what it's for
Can I do this servo trick with out doing anything else to the transmission
Would like to replace my servo in a 2009 chevy avalanche vin number yv4a22pl251322044.I'm having a problem finding out which kit i need.Any help would you be appreciated.Thanks Ken
why would my servo have three springs inside of it? You explained having two being part of a shift kit, but three seems excessive, also there was no spacer. I'm not sure who "built" this truck but it don't make no sense lol.
Whats a good way to check the servo pin travel I installed this kit but man is this tight on drum. Couldn't get my snap ring on ,grind the pin down
Mr. R&R Got 89 GMC TRUCK WITH A 700R4 & IT STARTED TO LEAK OIL FROM THE SERVO SO CAN YOU! PLS TELL ME HOW FIX/REPAIR LEAK! /THANK YOU! GILBERT CRUZ TUCSON,AZ.
Well the blue oring is the one that seals the servo cover to the case pull the servo out see if oring is cut and replace it check it close to verify it is not cracked
Mr.R&R I would like to Thankyou! For your expertise! There is nothing like getting advice from a pro! I'd like to give you my Mr.MVP award on professional knowledge thank you for your response your awesome keep up the good work once again thank you so much and God bless you Gilbert Cruz Tucson Arizona
Nice video my friend, hey i have a question 4 you, i have a 2004 Tahoe with a 4L60E and bought a new Sonnax complete servo kit ( 2nd & 4th gears super hold ) but i was reading the instruction and it say the pin or rod ( included in the kit ) should be grind it on the tip not too much not too little to avoid the trabby getting stocked in 2nd, could you please give some tips of the right amount i should grind off of it?? Thanks in advance
Nice video vary helpful, where do you find the servo spacer I would like to purchase one thanks
@Offroad Rider. The ring shown comes with a Transgo jr shift kit. Transgo makes a higher end complete shift as well this spacer ring comes in also.
A couple of things not shown at the same time is the 3rd check ball in a capsule or called captured. If apart, pour a small amount of ATF - Solvent mixed at 50-50, into the case side 3rd apply cavity. It bleeds air our upon 3rd apply to push the 2nd accum/piston inside the servo back releasing the band. If the check ball leaks into the inside of the case, the ball needs replaced. Some plug it, but that traps air & fluid under pressure and causes a late band release as 3rd clutch is applied. It’s about timing as one is applied, another is released. If timing is wrong, the 2-3 upshift will be spongy, too hard or wear out the 2-4 band quicker or burn up the 3rd clutch quicker. It’s all very simple after doing this for 40 years.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Also check Superior super hold 4th and their servo “K012 & K034” as I think this is the best replace servo assembly on the market. Eliminates springs, spacers and provides more holding / clamping that the Corvette servo. It’s PSI X Surface Area.
Dean Kay awesome very helpful thank you
@@deankay4434 do you like it better than sonnax servo? from 40 years what if you dont mind telling me do you set the band clearance? which boost valve do you prefer? I can put one together and make it work right if go by factory specs. soon as i started messing with servos and wide bands, its making me realise its gonna take me a long time to get out of the Novice stage. thanks
@@dreece2000 That a lot of days in the saddle Pilgram to cover that ground. Ok, too many hours of a John Wayne marathon at the hospital. Sonnax servos are heavy cupped shaped disc that will not wear on the pin, bore & skinny seals. Cheap insurance as these move up and down every time that gear shifts. Band clearance is about 0.12" or enough to allow the input shaft/drum to move with one have once released. Just make sure the drum is next to new as bands sold are wider. Now they run on a thicker part while the rest of the friction rides on scratches in a record with oil. The pressure valve is best using the 0.50" that everyone sells but change reverse boost as well. Look at the pressure chart. Manual 1st, Reverse have the highest PSI. You want good holding power for the band and clutch frictions. I've never seen the snap ring blow out the input drum but Sonnax will be happy to sell $550 worth of fix and sneak an extra friction in. I prefer spending time at 3rd with Alto Red Eagle friction and Kolene steels. At the start, good complete pressure to entire pack from fingers and 9 frictions fit great with 0.23" gap after using air to seat them 3 or 4 times. Remember, that is almost spark plug gap on a weed eater. Don't forget the rear case side captured check balls as 3rd relies on it passing to the servos in the case circuit. I never trust the release captured ball on the band apply cavity either. Some say use a #4 easy out but I found a 3/8" X 18 tap works great. When it stops, look to see the steel case w/ball move. STOP! Now, lay a plate of steel across the valve body aluminum to protect it, vise grip and roll-head pry bar it out. I have a slide hammer with vise grips that work well in this spot. Also, use the 2-liter coke bottle trick on the shaft seals and trans gel. Slide the bottom one on first and follow up. If you re-size them by hand, they will relax but still need insurance. Just cut the side of the plastic coke bottle out a little taller as it is slippery and wide enough to wrap around the sealing rings at least 1 1/2 times. Longer does not hurt. Since it is clear, look at your seals to make sure they are home. I place 4 or 5 large O-rings over night to start, the next day with hose clamps and I mean the worm screw type and just snug them down. works great! Best of luck!
@@dreece2000 Wow, a lot of ground to cover in a reply. Using the wider band is always job one to order. Start with a new drum as remanufactured drums are lathe turned and smaller, but the Sonnax website has a cool break down of 700R4 parts and what each one does. I like the pinless accumulator piston as it has basically nothing to wear out or break as the OEM can do. Use the Sonnax sun shell as it transfers the load better while having less chance of breakage. You don't need the $500+ input shaft-drum kit unless you are running 700 HP W/Turbo. I was really impressed with the Alto Red Eagle frictions over Raybestos as the steels are Kolene treated. This allows for hardly any chance of heat warpage and run thinner in #3 clutch pack. The original 6 friction can be 9 friction with still having 0.28" end play. I take photos of set up, result of measurements and would have to refer to the final result. Just plan on finding broken springs, damage separator plate after being beat on 70 thousand times. What, Transgo I think has one listed with a Jr Shift kit and plan on getting it. Double check the two captured check valves especially the3rd dump case circuit in the rear of the valve body next to the governor filter and 4th accumulator body I think. It operates as an exhaust when shifted out of third. The problem is it gets hammered during hard upshifts and can wear thru and the check ball fall out into the case or sit in the valve body and do nothing. Also, get the Transgo TV cable valve fixer kit. It comes with grooves that capture oil and have an extra front spring so it can't stick. They give a choice of spring by color that allow use behind different engines and this flat metal plate that goes into the spring to limit it travel without masking the TV valve move.
Also, look online by typing TH700R4 repair. Not ATRA but some other group published a kinda manual with the history, identification of parts, good ones, bad ones and some step by step stuff. I save it on a now dead laptop, so SOL as they say. As far as band tightness, always install stuff wet, hit it with air to work if can before checking. But if you can turn the input shaft by hand, you should be good to go. I guess, slightly less than snug when not applied. The Transgo Jr Shift kit provides a rounded tip that can be added depending on what happen as you go together, but using the bench grinder to remove material to make a shorter band rod if needed, just make sure it has the same radius as before. Without TH-cam or digital cameras you would be at the "Photo Booth" waiting on snap shots. I wore the ears off two brother who worked in the towns repair shop. They built race cars for the 1/4 mile tracks side-by-side with only a couple of bedsheets to hide their tricks. Funny to think of it now he has passed. That's life. Will Rodger's the American Humorist was asked about going into politics and he replied he would retire first, after all you start to die as soon as you are born. Being in politics only speeds the process up and guides the direction downward! Hope this helps.
What did the grinding and added spring do that the stock setup wasn't? Does the stock setup hydrolock? I've watched quite a few vids and it's the first I've seen anything about the 3rd accumulator mentioned. It's always about the corvette servo.
Do these come pre built? Or is it always a matter of tearing the old one out and rebuilding it with updated parts? Is it beneficial or necessary to change the rod?
On my 2000 Silverado i have this servo in a 4l60e .the piston and accumulator for 3rd gear are shot and I have to replace all of it. Could
That possibly by why it won't shift into 3rd at all? If so any one know how that even happens so I can fix and prevent a repeat? Thanx guys
Hi
I got an 07 GMC Sierra
2 wheel drive with the 5.3/4l60e
Ive always found the shifts a bit lazy or sloppy. Dealership told me its normal.
What servo can i go with to firm up these shifts?
And do they all physically fit my trans or should i be carefull which to purchase?
Ive seen some Corvette servos online, and the Sonnax servo...
Thank you kindly
sorry for the delay in replying the corvette servo will fit the sonnax or superior servo is a better choice
@@robertrushton6622
Thank you
Can you put two springs in there
Does the lost of the overdrive or the 4th gear on the 4l60e have something to do with the servo? I reassemble my stock servo and since i lost the overdrive what could it be?
I have to Wonder if the 4th gear piston(the one that lives inside cover) may have been installed backwards. Easy to do.
I do appreciate all your great videos but you indicated that if we have any questions to just ask. I have a few unanswered questions you have not respond for a some time if you can't help me please let me know so I don't waste my time and ask someone else. I have done some work on the 2003 chevy truck 4L60E I have found that I think instead of lagging back from 1st gear to 2nd I think the trans. is miss 2nd gear and shifting to 3nd gear. I can manually shift from 1st to 2nd and it will not go in but when I continue to 3nd it will shift so I think it is passing 2nd so what could cause that problem. Please let me know what you think ASAP. Thanks Keith
I'm sorry for the delay in response to your question but I have been very busy in the shop you are right I did say if you had a question just ask so let's get to your problem. If you are missing second gear it is normally a band problem however you should also be missing 4th gear if it's a band if you have 4th I would start with shift solenoid if the solenoid is ok then I would remove the servo I hope this helps
@@robertrushton6622 Will sorry for my late reply I took the truck out to make sure 4th gear is working it is definitely working could get up to 70 MPH then down shift to 3rd. I have no scan codes because of the short I fixed in the dash broad that killed the battery and cleared all the codes. So can you tell me what solenoid I need to change if it is bad it should have a short or a open circuit right and if I need to check anything else I put a rebuilt servo piston in it last weekend so that should be good. Thanks
I have a question. I rebuilt my 4l60E at 365k miles and have 50k miles on rebuild. One morning, it no longer had 2nd gear. I have been driving daily with it shifting to 3rd and fourth, TCC lockup. I researched that it might be my apply pin was too short. I had already taken the servo out to check the split seals and put it back. Pulled pan and replaced solenoids couple weeks ago. Today, I pulled the servo and replaced the apply pin with a longer one. Now my original pin has 2 recessed grooves in the cone. The replacement pin has 3 raised ribs on the cone. So, swapped them out. Test drove and now only have 1st gear. I am waiting for it to cool down , so I can pull it and swap out pins or see what I missed. But, hey brother, would you have any idea why I lost 2nd gear. Had it night before, then next morning, no 2nd gear. I am completely stumped now. I also forgot to mention that I have reverse still as well.
I have the same thing going on with my 2002 Chevy Suburban 4X4 I like to know the answer too
@@ernie7123 Hey Ernie, I made a manual switch box after being unable to find a local trans shop to see if the ECM was commanding it to shift gears. It was not. My ECM lost its "Flash" and I was able to buy a reflashed ECM on ebay reasonable cost. The truck runs good as new, even fixed a weird sound at idle which mechanics said was a bad lifter. Nope, ECM was doing weird stuff. The Manual Switchbox is simple and cheap to make and is a very handy tool to have on hand. Lets you eliminate a lot of guessing without having to rely on expensive diagnostic machine only dealers and high end shops keep, but apparently would rather tell you the trans is shot and needs to be rebuilt. I got 70k miles on that one and had it not lost the flash to ECM and me driving around like that and then I made the mistake of driving it with the manual switchbox which is a lot of fun but you are shifting gears and driving under full line pressure which is not healthy thing to do. checkout facebook forum 4l60E DIY rebuilders
Very detailed thanks for info.
I installed a carvette servo into my 02 chevy with the 4l60. It was working fine I just wanted to get a smoother shift but after I installed the new servo everything shifts good but it wont go into overdrive. I made sure that I assembled it correctly when I installed it and I'm not sure what's causing it not to engage.
are you sure you have second gear, I have seen were a servo missed the band and you will lose 2nd and 4th, when the 1-2 shift should happen around 15mph its still in 1st until around 30mph miss second and go into 3rd. if that's not it you will to recheck your seal rings on the servo.
If it's an issue with servo you don't have 2nd either
Hi Robert! If there's a cut seal somewhere on the 2-4 servo... would/ can it cause a slide to bump 1-2 shift and a little to no feel 3-4 shift? Think I have a cut servo seal on my 05 Tahoe I just rebuilt... thanks for any help!
Btw....The 2-3 shift feels perfect
Thanks for sharing it's very helpful
Quick question with the 4th gear apply piston if I put it in backwards upside down would work still or not or would I not have 4th gear or 3rd gear?
Great explanation on how the servo works. I just rebuilt a 4L60E and have a real harsh 3-4 Shift. Could that be due to a problem with the 3rd gear accumulator in the servo?
this could be the only 4l60e ever to have that symptom. not being ugly but by design its just difficult to have a harsh 3/4 shift. sounds like you got a really good transmission.
@@dreece2000 I will say their is a captured check valve that is in the case that is exhaust for the 3-4 shift. Unless you have a tool to put a 50/50 mixture of ATF & Solvent behind it to check for leakage, it is about the only mechanical thing that might cause it. It's removed with the VB off and the book says to use a #4 easy-out. I never knew they were numbered. I found a 3/8" - 16 TPI tap would grab it and with a metal plate across the aluminum VB case worm tracks, pry up and out with vise grips and pry bar. Use a punch the same as the hole to drive it in and they give you a measurement I can't remember. But the capture ball has a steel cage that bottoms out about 5/16" below the surface, so not much. Otherwise leave it alone and wear a smile!
Hello all,
I know this is an old thread but, I have a 07 Yukon that has the 4l60e that went bad. I replaced it with what I thought was an upgraded trans (4l70e). The trans had no gears and I ended up replacing the valve body with a refurbished one.
To make a long story, by replacing the valve body I got proper shifting. I don't have 4th gear though. The computer commands the shift and it changes into 4th but there is no reduction in rpms while on the gas. If I take my foot off the throttle it freely goes down to where 4thr rpms should be.
have a 1995 k1500 chevy 4x4 ext. cab runs great but no 2nd gear ? 1st is fine 3rd and 4th is good thinking of getting a new trans. but don't have the cash . i know you can't know for sure or maybe you can from what i told you if you have time tell me what ya think please i love the truck cuzz i get to take my dog "bandit" with me it makes him very happy . i;ve tryed to get him to ride the bike with me but he just doesn't seem to get the hang of riding on the back of my bike ...... maybe i need to think side/car
; ) i don;t even know how you answer me but i did subscriebe yeah i can't spell
thanks you have a fantastic day
What will happen if I don't put the gold ring thing back on the servo what will happen
i believe the gold ring you are talking about is a spacer that comes in the shift kit it is used to shorten the clearance on the band
I tore down a 85 Corvette 700r4 and when I remove that same servo and found a spring broke into three pieces and the apply rod was in about three or four pieces. Do you know what could have caused this. I don't want to rebuild it and have the same problem. The transmission came out of a wrecked Corvette
Thanks for any help
Mickey Locklear - It has been a year since your question, but in 1985 was almost the first year it was made. It would be easy to find 13 suggested updates to do including increase the drain-back hole under the front seal and install the new retainer for it. That's 2. Accumulator pistons take a beating as the move as you shift into gear and as it shifts out. These wear, crack, break and can ruin your case. Same thing for the rear case captured check ball, next to the 4th filters. Large springs break and accumulators will pound the snot out of the separator plate. Go onto your favorite search engine, type in 700R4 modifications. A printable PDF full of explanations and diagrams from some "National Transmission" service group put this out there. I highly recommend updating the pumps pressure valve to 0.50" and install the Sonnax reverse boost valve. Superior can not be beat for size and apply pressure in the servo assembly. Get the 4th w/cover and third together. Much better than the Corvette servo everyone sells. I don't know the mileage on my donor but the captured check balls are over looked. If you need a non-cable VSS, install the 40 tooth tone ring in place of the plastic drive gear. Go to Rock Auto under 92-93 Camero and get the connector, sensor and tone ring. Clean with scotchbrite / Acetone and red Loctite in place. If you have a bearing race and pipe that will drive it onto the output shaft straight, it will not break. No clip is required, just stop at witness mark or use a file, tape & photo. Then the planetaries. I went all front/rear ACDelco 5 gear. The rear has a Torrington bearing and cover machined to fit. It adds 30% more torque the OEM and found in the 4L65E. Use the Sonnax Sun Shell and it transfers the load path to more surface area. In other words. plan on a valve body plate, Jr. shift kit, TV repair valve kit the use lock-up with hydraulic pressure instead of the ECM or a vacuum switch. I bought a temp gauge and used wires in the connector for ground and signal. It is a NTC thermistor and bolt a bracket on the VB. This holds it on the fluid before it leaves the trans and will be more accurate. The Alto Red Eagle frictions with Kolene steels are far beyond Raybestos. The steel plates are heated in a salt-solution and frozen in nitrogen to provide excellent heat transfer per 1,000 of an inch and wear and don't warp like others. Heat kills everything except a mean mother-in-law, so get a cooler on it. I grabbed an import A/C condenser with fan that was not tall but longer than most. I placed it underneath with a louvered rock guard on it. $5 dollar bought a adjustable thermal controller that has an NTC thermistor and degrees F adjustment so it comes on at 180 F. Condensers for R134a are more efficient than and handle 450 PSI easy as the trans cooler circuit runs at 8-12 PSI. I just stuck the sensor bulb/stick into the fins near the return pipe as i want it to warm up in the winter but stay cool under loads. 13 updates and 32 other mods will get you a snake charmer. Otherwise, make it go & sell it. Otherwise, I don't know anything about these transmissions!
Hi, thanks for the great video. You seem to know these 4L60e pretty well, I have a
question for you, please: My 4L60e had a cheap, rounded off lower cooler
line that popped out mid-trip on the highway, losing a lot of fluid. I
stopped, put the line back in, a added a few quarts of fluid and wanted
to limp it home. Got it moving forward again, but it did it again a few
miles up the road. Little buggar felt solid but kept popping out while
driving. Anyway, it took about 3 tries like this, then I used tie-wraps
to secure the line in and I finally got it home. It seemed to be
slipping a bit but at 4 o'clock in the morning, who really cares? I have
since changed the tip, using a newer, more squared-off tip that will be
held in place by the C-clip (but I'm thinking of leaving the tie-wraps
for good measure). Now, she slips in 2nd at about 2500rpms and will need
to go to 4500-5000rpms to shift to 3rd when in 'D'. If I move the lever
to '2' she's fine, no slipping at all. I haven't tried highway speed
yet to see how she acts in '4' because I don't want to drive it too much
before I know what is wrong with it, I'd like to avoid doing more
damage. What do you think, where should I be fixing? Thanks for any
help that you can provide. Have a good day.
I have a 93 Chevy Van G20 4.3 v6 with a 4L60E transmission it jerks going into drive and jerks going into reverse and it shifts hard 1st to 2nd and all the other gears 2nd through overdrive shift smooth an hour I change the filter and fluid up change the throttle position sensor I don't know what the problem is sometimes it'll shift smooth and sometimes it'll shift hard sometimes the shifting smooth the last from a date to a month and the shifting hard and just from a month to a year but it's aggravating and I'm trying to fix that problem if you have any information on it please let me know what it is and what I need to do to fix it please thank you I'm Ray
Raymond Larson exactly the same problem , did you figure out what it was?
Are you using the optional longer pin or stock pin?
What will happen if servo fails
What is the part number for a 4l60e servo
@Rick Samson - Buy the Superior 4th w/cover and 3rd. New wide band with servo installed should move by hand. If tight, grind a small radius off the pin, retry.
Robert...what's the name of your shop..where are you located ???
Its Thomson Transmission and auto repair and were in Thomson ga
Thank you
do you still use the springs from the shift kit with the corvette servo?
yes the vette servo will increase shit speed and feel but we should still use the springs that come with the shift kit. there will be different springs used on the accumulator valve in the valve body that is dependent on what servo you us.
What does servo do
it applies the band for 2nd and 4th
thank you.
The camera was too close you was off camera on some of the shots 🤔
THANK YOU. this is like a puzzle, not even my tec manual has a diagram of it. 👍
thanks for watching
Tanks boos man
Why do the grinding and all wth the shift kit and not to a corvette servo they are so cheap
the grinding of the servo cover is so fluid will escape and not hydro lock the servo. the reason for not using a corvette servo is shift feel this is for a Tahoe and need a smooth shift.
shift kit lol
Is this the reverse piston too?
Nice work with the servo thanks 👍
thank you