Have you used Lychee Slicer? It was initially for resin printers, but now you can use it for both! They just added FDM printers this week to their software 🤗 and the Ankermake M5 is one of their supported printers.
Got to let you know that you're one of my favorite up and coming TH-camrs on 3D printing. Just subscribed. I bought an anker make M5 as well and I should be getting it shipped by February 3rd. I've been 3D printing for years using the pretty much maxed out ender 3 version 2 direct drive. Let's see how much better the ankermake goes.
I bravely did it with no supports. The design was made for no supports but I didn't trust it completely. I kept a keen eye on it especially during the bottom of the cape. In fact, I had to pause it a few times to press down on the cape because it was curling upward and was hitting the fan ducts. But after it got past that part, everything was a breeze!
The top speed is decent, but even slow printers (like Creality Enders) can achieve similar, or higher speeds by upgrading to, say, Klipper firmware. What matters more than speed for most real-world prints is acceleration. The M5 2,500 mm/s is still quite low, probably limited by a heavy tool. The innovation that's allowed higher acceleration is Input Shaping which compensates for vibrations. Fundamentally, the kinematics on the AnkerMake M5 are just another bed slinger, and 250mm/s doesn't even require a high flow hotend for typical layer height and nozzle sizes. Still, it's good to see faster speeds that have been pioneered in enthusiast printers get shrink-wrapped and brought to general consumers (although Bambu Lab rather beat Anker to the punch, albeit at a higher price point). What now needs to be seen if whether Anker has better quality control than companies like Creality.
At the moment, I don't think it's worth using. The last time I used it, it was a 40 min print and it had 5 error detections that were all false positives. One good thing about it though is that it helps you check your print more often, instead of forgetting about it and something going wrong. I've been using Prusa more for the features of custom supports and a better model viewer.
Thank you for the video! How did you modify the print settings for Mando? I've had some issues with blobs popping in layers up using the filament that came with the printer. I was just making some basic boxes and the walls got pretty bumpy in a couple spots due to what seems like over extrusion, but I could be wrong!
Yeah, I'm not entirely sure, but I think that's the z-seam when it goes up a layer. I think the mando model was designed to hide the seams. Not entirely sure though. I think I just put "Hide Seam" in the settings and that was it.
Oh, I've also noticed the included filament isn't all that great... it strings a lot more than the others I have. Maybe I'm just printing it too hot, but it also has a higher temp spec than the others.
Have you used Lychee Slicer?
It was initially for resin printers, but now you can use it for both! They just added FDM printers this week to their software 🤗 and the Ankermake M5 is one of their supported printers.
Haven't tried lychee, but I did spend the day trying out Prusa. I'll check it out!!
I actually really wanted to hear how a 3d printed ocarina sounds like 😅😂
If you stick around at the end I play some... :)
Got to let you know that you're one of my favorite up and coming TH-camrs on 3D printing. Just subscribed. I bought an anker make M5 as well and I should be getting it shipped by February 3rd. I've been 3D printing for years using the pretty much maxed out ender 3 version 2 direct drive. Let's see how much better the ankermake goes.
Awesome! Thank you so much! I wish you luck with your printer!
I print the same phone holder. If you rotate it to where the base is in the air,you don't need supports.
Did you use supports for the large mandalorian?
I bravely did it with no supports. The design was made for no supports but I didn't trust it completely. I kept a keen eye on it especially during the bottom of the cape. In fact, I had to pause it a few times to press down on the cape because it was curling upward and was hitting the fan ducts. But after it got past that part, everything was a breeze!
The top speed is decent, but even slow printers (like Creality Enders) can achieve similar, or higher speeds by upgrading to, say, Klipper firmware. What matters more than speed for most real-world prints is acceleration. The M5 2,500 mm/s is still quite low, probably limited by a heavy tool. The innovation that's allowed higher acceleration is Input Shaping which compensates for vibrations.
Fundamentally, the kinematics on the AnkerMake M5 are just another bed slinger, and 250mm/s doesn't even require a high flow hotend for typical layer height and nozzle sizes. Still, it's good to see faster speeds that have been pioneered in enthusiast printers get shrink-wrapped and brought to general consumers (although Bambu Lab rather beat Anker to the punch, albeit at a higher price point). What now needs to be seen if whether Anker has better quality control than companies like Creality.
Good insights! Thanks for the info
🔥
Is the AI in the M5 useful in any print situation or is it just a gimmick? I know ankermake discourages using any other slicer but it's own.
At the moment, I don't think it's worth using. The last time I used it, it was a 40 min print and it had 5 error detections that were all false positives. One good thing about it though is that it helps you check your print more often, instead of forgetting about it and something going wrong. I've been using Prusa more for the features of custom supports and a better model viewer.
Thank you for the video! How did you modify the print settings for Mando?
I've had some issues with blobs popping in layers up using the filament that came with the printer. I was just making some basic boxes and the walls got pretty bumpy in a couple spots due to what seems like over extrusion, but I could be wrong!
Yeah, I'm not entirely sure, but I think that's the z-seam when it goes up a layer. I think the mando model was designed to hide the seams. Not entirely sure though. I think I just put "Hide Seam" in the settings and that was it.
Oh, I've also noticed the included filament isn't all that great... it strings a lot more than the others I have. Maybe I'm just printing it too hot, but it also has a higher temp spec than the others.
landfill ftw
xD yeah I've kinda stopped printing useless things and try to do utility prints now