Wow, this is by far the most comprehensive tutorial on this procedure. I have all the upper/lower gaskets & ACDelco 217-3029 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injector Kit with Bracket sitting on my bench right now. (1996 k1500 5.7) Going to do valve seals while I'm in there as well. Thank you for taking the time to share all the torque specs, tips & finer details. All of your videos are much appreciated. 👍
I'm not sure if someone else has mentioned this: Fel Pro has designed an improved intake gasket for these engines. The Fel Pro kit is number MS98000T or MIK98000T. The MIK set contains new manifold bolts and a few extra gaskets, for EGR etc.. I really like the detailed info in this video. 👍👍 Thanks
You did a fine job Dr. Shock. Your obvious level of expertise, exemplary amount of effort that you apply to detail and most of all, sharing skillful knowledge for the genuine purpose of education. I am baffled that more people haven't taken the time to give a thumbs up and or a few kind words of appreciation. I appreciate your effort and would give you 2 thumbs up if I could. Thank you.
Best detail of this job ever, i do my own work because i cant trust anyone to do a thorough job and not tear up more than they fix. I would hire you in a minute. Great job man.
I was initially intimidated to try this myself in my Chevy Express van. Now I'm actually looking forward to doing it. This is a fantastic video. Thanks so much for the attention to detail.
Very detailed. Well done. I have a tick on #5 in my 1996 7.4L as well as an oil leak, or leaks, on the intake manifold. Ive been looking for a similar tutorial or guide and before this, i have found very little helpful videos.
This was so incredibly helpful. The top of my lower looked nearly identical. Including the puddle of fresh oil in the back passenger corner. I which I had a better understanding of the exact route it took to get there. I’m having trouble ciphering it out. Want to sure my tea pair resolves that issue. Lol
One of the best videos, if not, the best video I’ve seen on my engine. Great attention to detail, part numbers, order, hacks, great photography. Just perfect in every way. I really need that manual brother. What is the title?
I wish you would have shown how to seat the injector body into the upper plenum it's a pain to me and I'm still not satisfied. I have worked hours trying to seat it. other wise this is the best by far video and instruction on You Tube Thank You.
Thanks. Yeah, I put a message in the video at that spot that unfortunately the camera went on lunch break while we were doing that injector body installation. It's definitely a dance that starts with making sure that it's on the metal bracket correctly, that the gasket is installed correctly (and lubricated with clean engine oil), and that you go slow and gentle. You don't want to force it, it will eventually be happy and slide into place.
Getting the right amount of sealant on the china rail can be tricky. A year after doing my intake gaskets, the back is leaking a LOT and I have to go back and redo it again. What a pain.
Thank you for being so thorough with this intake job. I have a question though. I have a 1998 chevy suburban 5.7 vortec. I just changed out my spider injectors, and I have done these before on the car as I have had it since '08. I have changed them out 3x since. But, an issue I have always come across and honestly I get annoyed with it every single time I have done this. When I put my injectors in, the part that goes through the upper manifold never fits through the hole. As if the aftermarket unit is to large for the hole, to the point where the large plug that connects to the injectors cannot be connected. Now, if I do not put the blue rubber gasket that you mention the injector housing does fit through the hole, and comes up sufficiently enough to plug in everything, but barely. Recently I took a grinder and enlarged the hole enough for the injector unit to come up enough with the blue gasket so that I can actually plug the injectors in. Now, when I say barely I mean that the injectors also seem to be sitting too low in the intake valley. I see your video here, and mine do not come up anywhere near that high. I can barely connect the injectors in. I wonder if my upper intake is defective, or possible belong to another year/model car. I have always been puzzled by this. I wonder if you can help out any with this. I'd really appreciate it.
That sounds like a type of fitment issue you can encounter with using lower tier aftermarket parts. GM/ACDelco manufacture few parts in-house nowadays, but they only contract with top tier suppliers. So when you buy GM/ACDelco you're really buying parts made by companies like Bosch, Denso, Timken, NGK, or Delphi. So personally, I aim for genuine OEM or top tier aftermarket to avoid fitment and compatibility drama. That all said, other aftermarket offerings tends to come together better if you keep it all from the same brand. Especially performance upgrade oriented brands. So you might want to see if you can get an aftermarket housing that has better fitment with that particular injector brand. If you are already using a top tier brand, then it may be a defect in the OEM plastic from age. I wouldn't expect an incorrect part to fit correctly on a Vortec engine if it were not correct for it. But you can always check the GM part number molded into the black plastic. Either way, you should never have to be grinding off material to insure fitment there.
this is so super helpful , I am sorry bout the caps on my question ,guess what, I got the screw out with magnet stick ,I bought on ebay, after using a prob screen light to see if it was in there,, thank you for your reply,,,Ron
I do got one question for you, when you put the PCV cover on, you didn't put in the PCV, do you only need the one that is on the hose or should you have both the hose and one in the housing?
This particular model year range of Vortec engine only has the one PCV at the LH hose end, which fits into a grommet on the valve cover. On the RH side valve cover you have just a hose that is part of the air intake assembly.
There's a number of scan tools that should have this measurement besides the professional Tech2 tool I showed. It's not going to be part of a code reader tools functionality, but rather a scan tool that claims bi-directional type functionality that will usually have it.
Part I of this series is where you'll find the access/pre-prep steps - th-cam.com/video/scwr6zk-n68/w-d-xo.html Anything removed is for needed access, and follows the genuine GM service manual steps for this particular service procedure. The upper fan shroud is just something _in the way_ so it is removed for better access.
@@DrShock I am surprised you did not remove the fan. I know it is not needed.. but far less aggravation with it out of the way I would think. I will be attempting this repair on my '99 2 door once it cools down.. too freaking hot in Texas right now.
I've never been happy with my 5.7 after rebuilding it, it seems sluggish and has what I would call a miss. Not a mis fire, but a slight shake. I've used my snapon Mt 2500 to check cam retard and im at 1 as the manual says plus/minus 1 or 2 is acceptable. To get to this reading the distributor is cranked hard one way as far as it will go. I've tried moving the distance tooth one slot in both directions and it never helps. Now I'm getting 0 oil pressure at idle and a check Guage notice.
There are a myriad of possible causes for the condition you describe for this particular GM engine. A failed head gasket or a failed intake manifold gasket can both result in coolant _loss_ occurring. And it's possible to have both conditions at the same time given the age of these engines. But of the two, the intake manifold typically causes an external leak rather than an internal one. Bottom line you'll have to do some disassembly to determine root cause. Cracked cylinder heads can also result in coolant leakage.
@@DrShock more than just loss, coolant is in the crankcase so some gasket failed i guess it time to just start taking shit apart, thanks for you video it is very articulate and detailed and I will be referring back to it again and again!1
Start with a cylinder compression test. That would quickly confirm the cylinder head gasket, or not. A chemical exhaust gas presence test in the coolant reservoir can also be useful in determining the extent of damage.
You'll need to pickup a compression gauge, Harbor Freight would do. It plugs in place of the spark plug. Search around for some videos on the basic procedure, I'm sure there is some content around this test out there.
_items?_ If you mean products, I used CRC brake cleaner on the plastic housing parts. For the aluminum parts I used a parts washer that is loaded with Crown PSC 1000 solvent.
You could estimate it as parts cost + 30% uplift and $130 per hour for a rough ballpark. Some will be more, some will be less depending on where you live in the USA.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, this is by far the most comprehensive tutorial on this procedure. I have all the upper/lower gaskets & ACDelco 217-3029 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injector Kit with Bracket sitting on my bench right now. (1996 k1500 5.7) Going to do valve seals while I'm in there as well. Thank you for taking the time to share all the torque specs, tips & finer details. All of your videos are much appreciated. 👍
I'm not sure if someone else has mentioned this: Fel Pro has designed an improved intake gasket for these engines. The Fel Pro kit is number MS98000T or MIK98000T. The MIK set contains new manifold bolts and a few extra gaskets, for EGR etc..
I really like the detailed info in this video. 👍👍 Thanks
You did a fine job Dr. Shock. Your obvious level of expertise, exemplary amount of effort that you apply to detail and most of all, sharing skillful knowledge for the genuine purpose of education. I am baffled that more people haven't taken the time to give a thumbs up and or a few kind words of appreciation. I appreciate your effort and would give you 2 thumbs up if I could. Thank you.
Best detail of this job ever, i do my own work because i cant trust anyone to do a thorough job and not tear up more than they fix. I would hire you in a minute. Great job man.
I was initially intimidated to try this myself in my Chevy Express van. Now I'm actually looking forward to doing it. This is a fantastic video. Thanks so much for the attention to detail.
Very detailed. Well done. I have a tick on #5 in my 1996 7.4L as well as an oil leak, or leaks, on the intake manifold. Ive been looking for a similar tutorial or guide and before this, i have found very little helpful videos.
You showed a lot. See you love engines. Learned a lot from this one. Greets from the Netherlands
This was so incredibly helpful. The top of my lower looked nearly identical. Including the puddle of fresh oil in the back passenger corner. I which I had a better understanding of the exact route it took to get there. I’m having trouble ciphering it out. Want to sure my tea pair resolves that issue. Lol
One of the best videos, if not, the best video I’ve seen on my engine. Great attention to detail, part numbers, order, hacks, great photography. Just perfect in every way. I really need that manual brother. What is the title?
Thanks, those official GM factory service manuals have been out of print for a long time. But there's a search link in the description for used ones.
Appreciate the info, first time swapping an engine and I needed to know how to get all this apart to clean it. Great video
Thanks for your videos. Even though my engine is a 4.3L Vortec 2003 Sonoma, This video was all i needed. Thank you.
I appreciate your video brother. Great job and attention to detail
I wish you would have shown how to seat the injector body into the upper plenum it's a pain to me and I'm still not satisfied. I have worked hours trying to seat it. other wise this is the best by far video and instruction on You Tube Thank You.
Thanks. Yeah, I put a message in the video at that spot that unfortunately the camera went on lunch break while we were doing that injector body installation. It's definitely a dance that starts with making sure that it's on the metal bracket correctly, that the gasket is installed correctly (and lubricated with clean engine oil), and that you go slow and gentle. You don't want to force it, it will eventually be happy and slide into place.
What works well is soaking the parts in vinegar or gas, it helps break up the carbon.
Great detailed video, thank you.
I got to do this now as I had a backfire and it cracked my Upper Engine Intake Manifold Assembly.
Getting the right amount of sealant on the china rail can be tricky. A year after doing my intake gaskets, the back is leaking a LOT and I have to go back and redo it again. What a pain.
Thank you for being so thorough with this intake job. I have a question though. I have a 1998 chevy suburban 5.7 vortec. I just changed out my spider injectors, and I have done these before on the car as I have had it since '08. I have changed them out 3x since. But, an issue I have always come across and honestly I get annoyed with it every single time I have done this. When I put my injectors in, the part that goes through the upper manifold never fits through the hole. As if the aftermarket unit is to large for the hole, to the point where the large plug that connects to the injectors cannot be connected. Now, if I do not put the blue rubber gasket that you mention the injector housing does fit through the hole, and comes up sufficiently enough to plug in everything, but barely. Recently I took a grinder and enlarged the hole enough for the injector unit to come up enough with the blue gasket so that I can actually plug the injectors in. Now, when I say barely I mean that the injectors also seem to be sitting too low in the intake valley. I see your video here, and mine do not come up anywhere near that high. I can barely connect the injectors in. I wonder if my upper intake is defective, or possible belong to another year/model car. I have always been puzzled by this. I wonder if you can help out any with this. I'd really appreciate it.
That sounds like a type of fitment issue you can encounter with using lower tier aftermarket parts. GM/ACDelco manufacture few parts in-house nowadays, but they only contract with top tier suppliers. So when you buy GM/ACDelco you're really buying parts made by companies like Bosch, Denso, Timken, NGK, or Delphi. So personally, I aim for genuine OEM or top tier aftermarket to avoid fitment and compatibility drama.
That all said, other aftermarket offerings tends to come together better if you keep it all from the same brand. Especially performance upgrade oriented brands. So you might want to see if you can get an aftermarket housing that has better fitment with that particular injector brand.
If you are already using a top tier brand, then it may be a defect in the OEM plastic from age. I wouldn't expect an incorrect part to fit correctly on a Vortec engine if it were not correct for it. But you can always check the GM part number molded into the black plastic. Either way, you should never have to be grinding off material to insure fitment there.
Thank you for your reply. You made a good point, I will considered this.
When you get this old girl all tidied up I'm waiting for the LS install tutorial !
wow thats a big job
Doc why do you put the lower in first? I have to do this soon and this has changed my thinking.
That's how the GM service information guides the procedure. Building it up from the bottom up right on the engine.
Thanks!
Great job 👍👍
this is so super helpful , I am sorry bout the caps on my question ,guess what, I got the screw out with magnet stick ,I bought on ebay, after using a prob screen light to see if it was in there,, thank you for your reply,,,Ron
You should fish it out with a flexible magnet type tool so that it does not end up inside one of the intake manifold runners.
@@DrShock yes sir ,that is what am trying to do, i have a screen prob light to look in to see where it is , i ordered flex magnet
Very nice.
I do got one question for you, when you put the PCV cover on, you didn't put in the PCV, do you only need the one that is on the hose or should you have both the hose and one in the housing?
This particular model year range of Vortec engine only has the one PCV at the LH hose end, which fits into a grommet on the valve cover. On the RH side valve cover you have just a hose that is part of the air intake assembly.
Does it have a plastic intake manifold or nor
Upper manifold is obviously made of plastic. Lower is aluminum.
Dr. Shock, what machine or program for a DIY you recommend to set the timing to ZERO as you did?
There's a number of scan tools that should have this measurement besides the professional Tech2 tool I showed. It's not going to be part of a code reader tools functionality, but rather a scan tool that claims bi-directional type functionality that will usually have it.
@@DrShock Thanks. You should be an instructor.
😮 I know it's been 11 months and you might not reply but why did you take the fan shroud off?
Part I of this series is where you'll find the access/pre-prep steps - th-cam.com/video/scwr6zk-n68/w-d-xo.html Anything removed is for needed access, and follows the genuine GM service manual steps for this particular service procedure. The upper fan shroud is just something _in the way_ so it is removed for better access.
@@DrShock I am surprised you did not remove the fan. I know it is not needed.. but far less aggravation with it out of the way I would think.
I will be attempting this repair on my '99 2 door once it cools down.. too freaking hot in Texas right now.
I've never been happy with my 5.7 after rebuilding it, it seems sluggish and has what I would call a miss. Not a mis fire, but a slight shake. I've used my snapon Mt 2500 to check cam retard and im at 1 as the manual says plus/minus 1 or 2 is acceptable. To get to this reading the distributor is cranked hard one way as far as it will go. I've tried moving the distance tooth one slot in both directions and it never helps. Now I'm getting 0 oil pressure at idle and a check Guage notice.
Would coolant in the crankcase be an indication of intake gasket failure,or could it be a head gasket?
There are a myriad of possible causes for the condition you describe for this particular GM engine. A failed head gasket or a failed intake manifold gasket can both result in coolant _loss_ occurring. And it's possible to have both conditions at the same time given the age of these engines. But of the two, the intake manifold typically causes an external leak rather than an internal one. Bottom line you'll have to do some disassembly to determine root cause. Cracked cylinder heads can also result in coolant leakage.
@@DrShock more than just loss, coolant is in the crankcase so some gasket failed i guess it time to just start taking shit apart, thanks for you video it is very articulate and detailed and I will be referring back to it again and again!1
Start with a cylinder compression test. That would quickly confirm the cylinder head gasket, or not. A chemical exhaust gas presence test in the coolant reservoir can also be useful in determining the extent of damage.
@@DrShock Thanks so much man!I got more time than $$ so imma start taking the intake off but before i do how do i preform a compression test?
You'll need to pickup a compression gauge, Harbor Freight would do. It plugs in place of the spark plug. Search around for some videos on the basic procedure, I'm sure there is some content around this test out there.
What is the torque specification for the EGR valve bolts? Thanks to anyone that answers this question!
Rewatch 36:36 as I go over that. It's a two step torque process btw.
@@DrShock Thank you!
What were the items you use to clean?
_items?_ If you mean products, I used CRC brake cleaner on the plastic housing parts. For the aluminum parts I used a parts washer that is loaded with Crown PSC 1000 solvent.
& 4.3eng too
what would this job cost in a shop??
You could estimate it as parts cost + 30% uplift and $130 per hour for a rough ballpark. Some will be more, some will be less depending on where you live in the USA.