I'm guessing my contacts just came loose, solder joint probably failed as there prone to. I'm very proficient with silver solder, a good old Weller solder gun and certified welder, pretty sure I can deal with this before I go to the stealership.
I had a Escalade back window contact came loose there is a super glue with copper filings in it. Just clean super glue and use a meter to check continuity
Either way the back glass has to be replaced there's no way around it we've already tried different methods it doesn't work you still have to replace the back glass
I was wondering if there were any long-term problems I should be aware of I tried this and it seems to work for me but before I commit to it did you have any problems with it afterwards mine's on a 2011 I jumped it out and now the window mirrors are working again
i have a 2014 f150 xlt and my rear defrost light dont come on at all. i switched 2 relays around and still nothing, both the same relays. is there just that or another fuse? also how hard would it be to add side heated mirrors, mine dont have them.
What about a whining noise when the defroster is on the windshield but switch to the vents or floor it doesn't make that sound. Only when the defrost is on the windshield?
Rear defogger Blinking dash switch light Not lite Problem solved Rust Between the sliding window prongs and closed window contact plate Open sliding window 4 inches Through the sliding window You can see the metal contact plate That completes the circuit for the rear defogger and mirrors Take 220 sandpaper Taping one side of the sandpaper with masking tape As To not sand the Heating Grid on the window Slide the Sandpaper inbetween the sliding glass window and the rear window Sand Contact plate And Handle electrical prongs in handle You Will see the contact plate through the sliding window With clean rust free metal Close window Start truck Press defogger button A must to operate Problem solved The circuit is now a closed circuit Or Completed circuit Defogger fuse good Defogger relay good Poor contacts on slide window needed a sanding W.
There is a hidden slot behind the seat that is a absolute Bear to get to, you have to have a set of long hooks and there is a sliding tab that needs to get unlocked
Original 2011 Raptor owner.. Ive been through 3 back windshields that i can recall..Maybe 4... From what i understand,Ford has a TSB on it regarding the rear defrost doing it.. Only problem for me, All 3-4 windshields have literally spider web cracks across the whole rear windshield....Almost looks like someone deliberately thrown a rock or something at the rear windshield... 1 of Fords bad designs unfortunately...
You could leave the jumper wire in place but that's not going to make your defrost work so there's no reason to leave it in place remember you still have a broken defrost grid
You have become my personal Ford Chilton manual. Thank you for such simple diagnosis advice.
Yvw thank you for the kind words
Thanks for the quick diag tip! Have yourself a great and profitable week!!
I'm guessing my contacts just came loose, solder joint probably failed as there prone to. I'm very proficient with silver solder, a good old Weller solder gun and certified welder, pretty sure I can deal with this before I go to the stealership.
Thanks! Doesn't take much to damage the element on the glass. Do we need to to worry about the test wire over heating?
I had a Escalade back window contact came loose there is a super glue with copper filings in it. Just clean super glue and use a meter to check continuity
Theres the sliding tabs too that can make it not light up because it think the window is open
Either way the back glass has to be replaced there's no way around it we've already tried different methods it doesn't work you still have to replace the back glass
I've seen a guy solder new tabs on to make contact. Worked for him. I'd have to find the video on here
I was wondering if there were any long-term problems I should be aware of I tried this and it seems to work for me but before I commit to it did you have any problems with it afterwards mine's on a 2011 I jumped it out and now the window mirrors are working again
i have a 2014 f150 xlt and my rear defrost light dont come on at all. i switched 2 relays around and still nothing, both the same relays. is there just that or another fuse? also how hard would it be to add side heated mirrors, mine dont have them.
I just put an inline fuse in and it fixed my problem and the window still works! and I don't have to put in a new 1k window
An inline fuse will Not Fix a problem at all what so ever ... All you are adding is a protection device
Saw this on another channel. I am gonna try and fix the grid
Awesome thank for the Info.
Will this work on 2021+ as well?
What about a whining noise when the defroster is on the windshield but switch to the vents or floor it doesn't make that sound. Only when the defrost is on the windshield?
Might have something stuck in the vent?
Rear defogger
Blinking dash switch light
Not lite
Problem solved
Rust
Between the sliding window prongs and closed window contact plate
Open sliding window
4 inches
Through the sliding window
You
can see the metal contact plate
That completes the circuit for the rear defogger and mirrors
Take
220 sandpaper
Taping one side of the sandpaper with masking tape
As
To not sand the Heating Grid on the window
Slide the
Sandpaper inbetween the sliding glass window and the rear window
Sand
Contact plate
And Handle electrical prongs in handle
You
Will see the contact plate through the sliding window
With clean rust free metal
Close window
Start truck
Press defogger button
A must to operate
Problem solved
The circuit is now a closed circuit
Or
Completed circuit
Defogger fuse good
Defogger relay good
Poor contacts on slide window needed a sanding
W.
Yeah most of the time that's not the case
What is the jumper wire called I can’t find one online anywhere. Thanks!
Check this out! a.co/d/bqgbO5X
How did you get the upper part of the seat to come forward?
There is a hidden slot behind the seat that is a absolute Bear to get to, you have to have a set of long hooks and there is a sliding tab that needs to get unlocked
@@FordBossMe Thank you!!!
I have a 2016 F150 the little slide window defroster doesn’t work. It’s an XLT with a 302 a package. But the rest of the window does defrost.
Probably going to need a new window anyway
I’ve seen some guys online say you can weld that little tab that they have that it comes on welded overtime
Original 2011 Raptor owner.. Ive been through 3 back windshields that i can recall..Maybe 4... From what i understand,Ford has a TSB on it regarding the rear defrost doing it.. Only problem for me, All 3-4 windshields have literally spider web cracks across the whole rear windshield....Almost looks like someone deliberately thrown a rock or something at the rear windshield... 1 of Fords bad designs unfortunately...
Could you just leave the jumper wire in place? Will that hurt the computer in anyway?
You could leave the jumper wire in place but that's not going to make your defrost work so there's no reason to leave it in place remember you still have a broken defrost grid
@@FordBossMe but that would make the mirrors defrost at least right? I can’t afford a new window at this time.