I don't think the lotus, bamboo or ocean have hit the 100 unit production cap and will keep being made for a while. I scour the internet looking for people sharing what number they got. For instance, about three years ago a brand new Citadel lotus was around number 33. I just got one a few months ago straight from Citadel and it was number 69. At that rate they will still be made for several years.
I got a Kami katana in rough shape with no fittings last year that I'm slowly making progress with. The last Kami I saw for sale was listed around$2500.
The reason for the sword (around 13:50 ) not fitting correctly after a time is simply (but not exclusively this): The place where it was made had not taken into consideration where your sword would end up in the world. for example: If they made the scabbard in Costa Rica, or Hunan China, the humidity would affect how the wood would swell or shrink. That will have every bearing on sword fitment. If the maker does not take that into consideration, then if your average humidity does not align with theirs it will not fit and have to be adjusted. A professional at this will know how to make these adjustments, and they're made on humidity. A small, yet important feature mass blades manufacturers do not consider; yet are more important than most realize. "The man in Black" who you refer too, understands this: as most educated Sayashi do. If I pay 4 grand and up I expect it to be very "Japanese", and new steels. new ideas and concepts, new modalities of constructions etc...this is not the problem. The problem is the utter lack of understanding what matters in a Japanese/style blade really means. It isn't about the "change"; its about to the attention to detail and honest workmanship. Being true to the ideal at least. The workers in a Toyota factory understand this ethos, from top to bottom, and that's why they're good cars. When one skimps things in order to make a price point, they better know what and why they are doing so....and to what extent. These folded steel blades may be in some small way be even superior (but not many) to traditional Tamahagane, but the feel, the balance, the cutting ability (when done right) are rarely equalled.
I was just watching one of your other videos, we do enjoy your reviews! Just ordered a 47 Ronin Katana from Hanwei, my first katana after years of thinking when should I buy one haha
Aside from genuine nihonto whether modern made or antiques, I would do a howard clark L6 daisho set, and get a really good person to do the fittings and polish.
I recently bought a Dragon Sword for $450.00. The polish was not so good. The one they sent you to review was alot better than what they sent to me. To bad they aren't consistent.
@@Matthew_Jensen It has a video on TH-cam. It has a green ito with a unokubi zukuri blade. Fire looking saya. When I received it first thing I noticed was it appeared to have a mix between a saguha and a midare hamon. Looks strange. Alot of machining marks belt sander marks. What really made me mad was the massive waves in the shinogi. I paid extra for a tight ito and got a loose one with Hishigami paper exposed and coming out. They are supposed to be sending a partial refund, but remains to be seen. I am working on doing a review video. But never before done a video. But I think it's necessary for people to know.
@@melissastanton84 I never bought a katana before, but I know the feeling. I did buy my first one-handed sword a few months ago, a "Munich Town Guard Sword" from Windlass. It wasn't expensive and the overall build quality seems decent, so I can't complain much, but there is a noticeable angle between the handle and the blade. I just hate that. Normally I don't have OCD, but stuff like that triggers me. It is a pet peeve of mine, because several times when I bought larger knifes, they had that problem too. I don't get what is so hard about putting a handle on a tang straight that this seems such a common issue. I imagine since katanas are fairly complicated in their construction, with many different parts needing to fit together, the risk of something being wrong with them is even higher than on most other types of swords.
@@melissastanton84 i was going to make my next purchase with them (can only afford budget-ish level swords, love the look of the design for this 9260 shobu they have vids for $230 but super disconcerting hearing this if that's what you got for 450! - coz just if the vid they have looks great doesn't mean that's the same as you'd get + $30 for hishigami $60 for pro hishigami with no explanation of the difference - way to expensive - feels like a rip off for that much lol 60usd is like 90+aud for me so way to much just for functional ito - bought swords with none from hanbon that was surprisingly rock solid tight ito (made me think they used hishigami as a mistake / jkoo charges $20 if remember correctly)
i personally would go for a real Nihonto from the Edo era in superb condition....for production Katana i always found the Old Pine katana from Bugei super nice...
@@fransthefox9682 most well known sword schools now days in foreign nations are from either Edo period or Toyama and it's branches. Using swords from Edo period would be more suitable for these school practices Granted, Katori Shinto is there but they don't have much branches yet except some US's states
One thing that really annoys me especially in the case of Hanwei is the seppa and the stuff they think you don’t see. For instance the mouth on seppa and Tsuba badly ground to fit the sword and use the same crappy brass seppa
@@Matthew_Jensen well you can buy some nice seppa from Sofecoke for about $25.00 but I have made some nice plain seppa from 1.2mm sheet brass. But when a sword retails for over a grand it should be better. It’s not even the seppa design , it’s the mouth of the seppa how loose and rough they are I will send you a pic of the ones I made on Facebook
Buy higher quality seppa from Japan I have a bag of seppa and habaki that are Edo period to make sure things fit right when putting something together for myself or someone else. You may want to buy some real Japanese crafted seppa
I really enjoyed this video. I feel like I know you a little bit better after it and it will help me properly interpret your other videos. I appreciate your style of review at least as much as anyone else's and probably the most.
I moved on to a review by Kyle and it made me think about what I might like better about your style. Please don't take this a flippancy or anything like that but IMO you a have a good dollop of Bob Ross with a hint of Jack Torrance in addition to the thoroughness and rationality of your reviews. Kyle just seems like a super nice guy who is as far as I can tell as thorough.
Congratulations on the sound editing, sir. The medieval diddling was too busy; this background selection is flat, featureless, of narrow range providing no competition with or distraction from your narrative. You were very well miked and at good levels throughout. The sonic background did compete with you a tiny bit from time to time in terms of levels but that is a bit of tweeking. Your natural vocal register and that of the background are pretty close - perhaps experimenting with background a third higher or lower on the scale and hear what that is like. Overall, well done, pleasing, great improvement. I am impressed with your efforts and thank you for making them; the sound was very good.
@@Matthew_Jensen a piece that u may want to try get your hands on is the k20 by carothers performance knives. It looks like it’ll be a beast. I much prefer more modern swords in that it has supersteels and can be used also as like a survival blade while yes it’s not made for that knowing it can is a massive boost
Thats easy, all of them!!!!! Nihonto, custom, customized, and production. Lol. By your guidelines, I would go for a Hira zukuri Motohara in their best steel, half bohi, with silver habaki, seppa, and menuki with everything else blacked out, would have to be my choice. With the runner up being the $1600ish hira zukuri zsey, but with only a half bohi so the cutting portion of the blade moves through the target smoothly.
I'd also pick the Motohara Hira. They have nice niku and proportions for a cutting sword. Check out the specs in the description on the semi-shinogi LMC. 0.21" (5.3mm) distal to 0.15 (3.8mm). Hot fricken damn!!!!
@@erichusayn My Dremsword tapers down to 3.99mm, has a "properly" placed shinogi, and cuts like crazy! Would expect somewhat similar to your Skyjiro in overall balance. (balance being primarily dictated by distal taper) Currently rewrapping with full samegawa and shortened the handle to 9.5". $1600+ is more than I could justify for a cutter, though still tempted to commission Cloudhammer for a proper Hira. Hope your tachi comes in nice.
@Kingfisher we will see. The z sey hira zukuri are crazy agile. I lb 9 oz. Has a full bohi though. Would be perfect to sacrifice a couple extra ozs with only a half bohi Ilke i stated above.
Hello I like your videos and appreciate the effort and level of detail that goes into them. Have you any advice for Japanese made swords and options actually from Japan, those are more appealing to me despite the steel not being as high grade carbon
The sword was for sucide even miyomoto said 2 long swords is ample that short n long has there disadvantages to a degree there measurements from hundreds of years ago
It's interesting that you seem to favour ishime saya in your reviews, but for a classy sword they're all piano gloss lacquered saya. Personally, I enjoy both, though find the gloss types have more presence and taste. Also, it's kind of interesting the variety of katana buyers and purposes. Compared to, say, a modern compound bow, which is strictly performance oriented, and would be weird to buy one for the express purpose of hanging it on the wall or practicing dry-draw.
To fairly judge the Hanwei Kami you really need a time machine. When this sword came out nearly 25 years ago it was… like most of their offerings, a total game changer. None of these other companies existed. Paul Chen put quality reproductions in the hands of students at a fraction of the cost of Nihonto. The Nihonto market was crazy in the late 90’s- early 2000’s. $5,000 was the price of a decent entry blade with functional koshirae.
Biggest point on here I disagree with is Motohara's fittings. They are the most traditional of the bunch, by far. I mean it's not even close. Which means, aesthetically they are also the most traditional with likely some of the least traditional blade shapes for the length.
I think the hand engraved and filed pieces from Citadel are the closest. The skuashi stuff from Motohara is not far off though. The fuchi/kashira on mine are cast pieces though and the hand made pieces from Citadel would be a little more traditional from the hand made aspect.
@@Matthew_Jensen construction sorta, materials not as much. Iron was used, citadels are steel yeah? Copper/shibuichi being very common base materials. The citadels aren't being hand made in pitch bowls, so not traditional either.
@@CaseyBartley You know not what you speak. Go find the old video of how Citadel katana are made. It's a 20 minute video showing each step. Be sure to come back and tell us what you learned!
@@ToxicityAssured Would love a link did some searches and nothing. The blade isn't tamahagane, so right there is a big chunk of why it's not. Fittings are more traditional from appearance. Hand made doesn't necessarily mean traditionally made, and unless they use the same processes you see in let's say Ford Hallam's work, it's still not traditional (would be super cost ineffective at their price point). I stand by the statement that Motohara has the most aesthetically traditional fittings package in the production katana market.
If money is not a factor I would go with a real japanese sword. Doesn't matter if it's an old one or a gendaito/ shinsakuto. Maybe I would get a custom one newly made for me.
@@Matthew_Jensen I own several Nihonto .I am in the process of purchasing a Katana forged by Sadakazu.I will probably go for a Katana made by Yoshihara next .
Okay, if we’re talking about commercially built katanas difficult as I have not yet found one that is really built like a real Japanese sword machining just cannot duplicate hand craftsmanship
I will go to Japan, and have one made for me, providing I could bring it back with me, and I may buy an historic one made by one of the best masters that ever lived
You can take some fine grit sand paper and carefully adjust the saya to give you the action that you want. I had a sword custom made and it was very tight. tight is good! th-cam.com/video/dr-7jqCSSZI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WfCfWSHRHsYuv04y&t=826
I think the title of the video should be changed to "What Production Katana Would You Buy..." Otherwise, if we're only not talking nihonto, I would love a Howard Clarke L6 bainite.
@@Matthew_Jensen Well, to be fair, a video like this is extremely hard to do. First one has to have arbitrary dollar amount cut-offs set against the relatively arbitrary prices for the product. And that's not as helpful as it could be because then you have a number of $800 swords out there that most people agree are better than some brand popular $1,000 swords. I think that would be too maddening to straight out all the nuances between various towards. I think the only thing we can really judge is if a particular sword is worth the price that somebody is asking for it
Nowadays there is hardly anymore sword fight and if you have to be in a fight you definitely want to bring you firearm. For $2000 I can have myself a modern double stack 1911's that is faster and more lethal than any katana at any price. Of course each to his own. I think buying a high dollar katana is for the art of creating it rather than the actual slicing and chopping functions of it. I think most people who purchased a very high dollar katana would not be doing a lot of slicing and chopping, they pamper the katana like a baby and most definitely would not toss the katana in a range bag like we do with our firearms. For me, I would have a lot more fun with a high dollar firearm than with a high dollar katana. YMMV. Have a good day.
Why nothing directly from Tozando in Kyoto? I would think money no object one would buy a Japanese sword that was actually made by a Japanese craftsman by hand.
If money wasn't a factor, I wouldn't even go for a katana. I would go for a tachi. A traditional nihonto made in the Koto ways, in Ko-Bizen style, with a hyogo-gusari koshirae. Katana is overrated. Tachi rules!
@@Matthew_Jensen Yes. To this day, there is no historically accurate tachi reproduction. All of them are just katana blades slapped into tachi fittings.
If money was a bit of a factor but not too much, would your first choice still be the Bamboo Mat? How is it that you havent got the waki bamboo mat to talk about here on the channel since all that time (maybe I missed it, sorry in that case). Is the Bamboo Mat strong enought to stop Putin's nuclear ogives? (I live in Europe), Peace lol
I like the Citadel the best out of those. The Motohara is OK, but I like Niku on a blade, not the flat sided grass-cutter geometry. That always seemed like cheating to me.
What most people don't realize is that katanas traditionally weren't made of high quality steel. Japanese blacksmiths needed to develop such refined, complicated and artful ways of making their swords, because the materials they were working with were of poor quality. They had to polish a turd, so to say. The reason why katanas have that characteristic curve is not a design choice. They just naturally bend that way during quenching, because the lack of hard carbon steel forced them to only make the edge out of hard steel and use soft "pig iron" (x) style metal for the spine of the blade. When quenching that construct out of 2 different metals, the hard edge shrinks less than the soft spine, which bends the blade into a curve. (x) It is called pig iron because cheap farming tools like pitchforks and the such used to be made out of low quality, soft iron. I always have to laugh when I see some supposedly Japanese kitchen knife manufacturer advertise on TH-cam, claiming the knifes they sell are so great because they use high quality Japanese steel, based on traditional Japanese metallurgy knowledge and so on. Japanese steel has always been bad. It only got good after WW2, when they rebuilt their economy copying American and European steel making technology. There are interesting historical anecdotes like for example that during WW2 Germany gave blue prints and samples of jet and rocket engines to Japan, but the Japanese couldn't replicate them because they couldn't produce steel of high enough quality to make jet or rocket engines out of. This is also why wakizashis were a thing. Katanas made of soft pig iron would bend frequently or the hard edge would break and chip, so you better had a backup sword with you. They also had buckets standing in Japanese castles, comparable to the kind of bucket we use nowadays for storing umbrellas in, just filled with spare katanas, so people defending the castle could easily replace their easily damaged swords that way. The point being, if you go for a authentic, historically accurate katana, don't expect it to be sturdy or durable. It is kind of a single use throwaway weapon. Some 40 Dollar wall hanger katana made out of cheap 440 stainless steel won't hold an edge well, but will actually be more sturdy and durable than a historically accurate pig iron katana.
You don’t have to “fly to Japan”to purchase an authentic Katana .There are a number of reputable dealers of authentic Japanese sword here in the US ,I own several..
@@nesking3115 I e seen videos of these stores in Japan that have massive amounts of really great swords to look at. More for the experience than just for buying the sword
I just talked to Citadel. They will in the future be doing another run of swords for Cas Iberia.
I don't think the lotus, bamboo or ocean have hit the 100 unit production cap and will keep being made for a while. I scour the internet looking for people sharing what number they got. For instance, about three years ago a brand new Citadel lotus was around number 33. I just got one a few months ago straight from Citadel and it was number 69. At that rate they will still be made for several years.
@@ToxicityAssured I want an Imperial as it is a 29” nagasa.
I got a Kami katana in rough shape with no fittings last year that I'm slowly making progress with. The last Kami I saw for sale was listed around$2500.
The reason for the sword (around 13:50 ) not fitting correctly after a time is simply (but not exclusively this): The place where it was made had not taken into consideration where your sword would end up in the world. for example: If they made the scabbard in Costa Rica, or Hunan China, the humidity would affect how the wood would swell or shrink. That will have every bearing on sword fitment. If the maker does not take that into consideration, then if your average humidity does not align with theirs it will not fit and have to be adjusted. A professional at this will know how to make these adjustments, and they're made on humidity. A small, yet important feature mass blades manufacturers do not consider; yet are more important than most realize. "The man in Black" who you refer too, understands this: as most educated Sayashi do.
If I pay 4 grand and up I expect it to be very "Japanese", and new steels. new ideas and concepts, new modalities of constructions etc...this is not the problem. The problem is the utter lack of understanding what matters in a Japanese/style blade really means. It isn't about the "change"; its about to the attention to detail and honest workmanship. Being true to the ideal at least. The workers in a Toyota factory understand this ethos, from top to bottom, and that's why they're good cars.
When one skimps things in order to make a price point, they better know what and why they are doing so....and to what extent. These folded steel blades may be in some small way be even superior (but not many) to traditional Tamahagane, but the feel, the balance, the cutting ability (when done right) are rarely equalled.
Thank you for yout time and efforts! Fantastic review, glad I found your videos!
I was just watching one of your other videos, we do enjoy your reviews! Just ordered a 47 Ronin Katana from Hanwei, my first katana after years of thinking when should I buy one haha
Aside from genuine nihonto whether modern made or antiques, I would do a howard clark L6 daisho set, and get a really good person to do the fittings and polish.
I recently bought a Dragon Sword for $450.00. The polish was not so good. The one they sent you to review was alot better than what they sent to me. To bad they aren't consistent.
Bummer which model did you get?
@@Matthew_Jensen It has a video on TH-cam. It has a green ito with a unokubi zukuri blade. Fire looking saya. When I received it first thing I noticed was it appeared to have a mix between a saguha and a midare hamon. Looks strange. Alot of machining marks belt sander marks. What really made me mad was the massive waves in the shinogi. I paid extra for a tight ito and got a loose one with Hishigami paper exposed and coming out.
They are supposed to be sending a partial refund, but remains to be seen. I am working on doing a review video. But never before done a video. But I think it's necessary for people to know.
agreed, looking forward to seeing the vdieo.
@@melissastanton84 I never bought a katana before, but I know the feeling. I did buy my first one-handed sword a few months ago, a "Munich Town Guard Sword" from Windlass. It wasn't expensive and the overall build quality seems decent, so I can't complain much, but there is a noticeable angle between the handle and the blade. I just hate that. Normally I don't have OCD, but stuff like that triggers me.
It is a pet peeve of mine, because several times when I bought larger knifes, they had that problem too.
I don't get what is so hard about putting a handle on a tang straight that this seems such a common issue.
I imagine since katanas are fairly complicated in their construction, with many different parts needing to fit together, the risk of something being wrong with them is even higher than on most other types of swords.
@@melissastanton84 i was going to make my next purchase with them (can only afford budget-ish level swords, love the look of the design for this 9260 shobu they have vids for $230 but super disconcerting hearing this if that's what you got for 450! - coz just if the vid they have looks great doesn't mean that's the same as you'd get + $30 for hishigami $60 for pro hishigami with no explanation of the difference - way to expensive - feels like a rip off for that much lol 60usd is like 90+aud for me so way to much just for functional ito - bought swords with none from hanbon that was surprisingly rock solid tight ito (made me think they used hishigami as a mistake / jkoo charges $20 if remember correctly)
i personally would go for a real Nihonto from the Edo era in superb condition....for production Katana i always found the Old Pine katana from Bugei super nice...
Why Edo when you can go for Koto?
@@fransthefox9682 most well known sword schools now days in foreign nations are from either Edo period or Toyama and it's branches. Using swords from Edo period would be more suitable for these school practices
Granted, Katori Shinto is there but they don't have much branches yet except some US's states
@@jaketheasianguy3307 The problem with Shinto and Shinshinto is that they were made to look pretty and cut smooth. Koto were made to last.
Own several Nihonto .I am currently in the process of purchasing a Katana forged by Sadakazu..
@@nesking3115 I will order a Tachi that will be forged strictly following Koto traditions.
One thing that really annoys me especially in the case of Hanwei is the seppa and the stuff they think you don’t see.
For instance the mouth on seppa and Tsuba badly ground to fit the sword and use the same crappy brass seppa
I wonder what it would cost to make some different/nicer seppa for higher end stuff.
@@Matthew_Jensen well you can buy some nice seppa from Sofecoke for about $25.00 but I have made some nice plain seppa from 1.2mm sheet brass.
But when a sword retails for over a grand it should be better. It’s not even the seppa design , it’s the mouth of the seppa how loose and rough they are I will send you a pic of the ones I made on Facebook
Buy higher quality seppa from Japan
I have a bag of seppa and habaki that are Edo period to make sure things fit right when putting something together for myself or someone else.
You may want to buy some real Japanese crafted seppa
I still have my golden orial
I really enjoyed this video. I feel like I know you a little bit better after it and it will help me properly interpret your other videos. I appreciate your style of review at least as much as anyone else's and probably the most.
I moved on to a review by Kyle and it made me think about what I might like better about your style. Please don't take this a flippancy or anything like that but IMO you a have a good dollop of Bob Ross with a hint of Jack Torrance in addition to the thoroughness and rationality of your reviews. Kyle just seems like a super nice guy who is as far as I can tell as thorough.
Bugei has restocked some of their swords.
Have you ever reviewed a battle blade inc. Katana. They look promising.
My favorite sword i have ever had is a Kaneie Tamahagane Katana. Perfect tsuka, amazing looking blade... Next best thing to Japanese sword for me.
Citadel. No question.
Congratulations on the sound editing, sir. The medieval diddling was too busy; this background selection is flat, featureless, of narrow range providing no competition with or distraction from your narrative. You were very well miked and at good levels throughout. The sonic background did compete with you a tiny bit from time to time in terms of levels but that is a bit of tweeking.
Your natural vocal register and that of the background are pretty close - perhaps experimenting with background a third higher or lower on the scale and hear what that is like.
Overall, well done, pleasing, great improvement.
I am impressed with your efforts and thank you for making them; the sound was very good.
i would have to go with the dawson knives dark knight
I was not impressed with the one Dawson piece I got to play with. I did not get to test it hard but for the money it seemed kinda meah..
@@Matthew_Jensen a piece that u may want to try get your hands on is the k20 by carothers performance knives. It looks like it’ll be a beast. I much prefer more modern swords in that it has supersteels and can be used also as like a survival blade while yes it’s not made for that knowing it can is a massive boost
I think you should try getting your hands on a newer evolution katana and see what you think
I did and made a video.
The red one is absolutely beautiful
Thats easy, all of them!!!!! Nihonto, custom, customized, and production. Lol.
By your guidelines, I would go for a Hira zukuri Motohara in their best steel, half bohi, with silver habaki, seppa, and menuki with everything else blacked out, would have to be my choice. With the runner up being the $1600ish hira zukuri zsey, but with only a half bohi so the cutting portion of the blade moves through the target smoothly.
I'd also pick the Motohara Hira. They have nice niku and proportions for a cutting sword.
Check out the specs in the description on the semi-shinogi LMC. 0.21" (5.3mm) distal to 0.15 (3.8mm). Hot fricken damn!!!!
@@KF1 oooooweeeeee. That'll do.
@@erichusayn My Dremsword tapers down to 3.99mm, has a "properly" placed shinogi, and cuts like crazy! Would expect somewhat similar to your Skyjiro in overall balance. (balance being primarily dictated by distal taper) Currently rewrapping with full samegawa and shortened the handle to 9.5".
$1600+ is more than I could justify for a cutter, though still tempted to commission Cloudhammer for a proper Hira. Hope your tachi comes in nice.
@Kingfisher we will see. The z sey hira zukuri are crazy agile. I lb 9 oz. Has a full bohi though. Would be perfect to sacrifice a couple extra ozs with only a half bohi Ilke i stated above.
@@erichusayn That's exactly why I ordered my Jkoo jian with 2/3 bohi. Don't want that crap interfering with the cut
Hello I like your videos and appreciate the effort and level of detail that goes into them.
Have you any advice for Japanese made swords and options actually from Japan, those are more appealing to me despite the steel not being as high grade carbon
Tozando has a link that seems easy to work with to purchase a new blade. Otherwise it is buying antiques and working with dealers.
I have the HMS knockoff of that Hanwei. It's surprisingly nice.
I'd take the new feilong design and have Zsey make a copy with a tamahagane blade and better fittings
It would be slick to match up a secondary sword, with each katana. In reliability there's this secondary sword for the bushido of a samurai.
The sword was for sucide even miyomoto said 2 long swords is ample that short n long has there disadvantages to a degree there measurements from hundreds of years ago
T-10 swords r a Hazard tho very brittle
@@based_prophet no, the tanto is for suicide, the wakizashi(short sword) is for very close range fighting,
It's interesting that you seem to favour ishime saya in your reviews, but for a classy sword they're all piano gloss lacquered saya.
Personally, I enjoy both, though find the gloss types have more presence and taste.
Also, it's kind of interesting the variety of katana buyers and purposes. Compared to, say, a modern compound bow, which is strictly performance oriented, and would be weird to buy one for the express purpose of hanging it on the wall or practicing dry-draw.
wanted to add this was a great video. If you sold every other sword but these, you'd still have a wicked tight collection. So nice.
Easy, it would be a custom katana that you designed yourself.
To fairly judge the Hanwei Kami you really need a time machine. When this sword came out nearly 25 years ago it was… like most of their offerings, a total game changer. None of these other companies existed. Paul Chen put quality reproductions in the hands of students at a fraction of the cost of Nihonto. The Nihonto market was crazy in the late 90’s- early 2000’s. $5,000 was the price of a decent entry blade with functional koshirae.
excellent point
Biggest point on here I disagree with is Motohara's fittings. They are the most traditional of the bunch, by far. I mean it's not even close. Which means, aesthetically they are also the most traditional with likely some of the least traditional blade shapes for the length.
I think the hand engraved and filed pieces from Citadel are the closest. The skuashi stuff from Motohara is not far off though. The fuchi/kashira on mine are cast pieces though and the hand made pieces from Citadel would be a little more traditional from the hand made aspect.
@@Matthew_Jensen construction sorta, materials not as much. Iron was used, citadels are steel yeah? Copper/shibuichi being very common base materials. The citadels aren't being hand made in pitch bowls, so not traditional either.
@@CaseyBartley You know not what you speak. Go find the old video of how Citadel katana are made. It's a 20 minute video showing each step. Be sure to come back and tell us what you learned!
@@ToxicityAssured Would love a link did some searches and nothing. The blade isn't tamahagane, so right there is a big chunk of why it's not. Fittings are more traditional from appearance. Hand made doesn't necessarily mean traditionally made, and unless they use the same processes you see in let's say Ford Hallam's work, it's still not traditional (would be super cost ineffective at their price point). I stand by the statement that Motohara has the most aesthetically traditional fittings package in the production katana market.
That was great and really useful. One year ago I purchased Shi katana from Dragon sword. It did the job. What do you think about Dragon Sword?
Good video for that thank you very much
I would buy the one in the Japanese museum that is said to have cut through 7 torsos in one pass.
I was about to say. A real, NBTHK/NTHK papered antique, or a custom commission from an existing Japanese smith.
If money was no issue
I would probably buy something from Taro Asano. I really like his work. I focused on things that were a little easier to buy.
Matthew, have you ever gotten your hands on a Phil Hatsfield Sr. sword and if so, what were your thoughts on it?
I have not.
Also, Id just for a koto era Tachi in full regalia show up and buy it lol,maybe have it polished if I just had unlimited funds.
A Howard Clark L6 bainite bare blade.
I have a couple bare blades right now.. Working on all the things..
Jensen mentions in the description that he excluded custom forges that he does business with, anyone know a costume forge I could do business with?
i always thought swords were pretty cool and your channel is informative enough to get me into it, got any tips for a total beginner here?
Ryanswords or SwordsofNorthshire would be your best bet for a sub $500 Japanese sword, in my opinion.
Can do T12a steel katana review?
Who sells one?
I had so many oooh’s and ahhh moments during this video 🤩
If money is not a factor I would go with a real japanese sword. Doesn't matter if it's an old one or a gendaito/ shinsakuto. Maybe I would get a custom one newly made for me.
There are not many off the shelf options but it would defiantly be cool
@@Matthew_Jensen I own several Nihonto .I am in the process of purchasing a Katana forged by Sadakazu.I will probably go for a Katana made by Yoshihara next .
I would have cold steel machete katana for home defence, but for Iaito I would have a bokken & later a 500 old katana
Okay, if we’re talking about commercially built katanas difficult as I have not yet found one that is really built like a real Japanese sword machining just cannot duplicate hand craftsmanship
I saw a knock off kami on eBay. They almost had me.
I will go to Japan, and have one made for me, providing I could bring it back with me, and I may buy an historic one made by one of the best masters that ever lived
You can take some fine grit sand paper and carefully adjust the saya to give you the action that you want. I had a sword custom made and it was very tight. tight is good!
th-cam.com/video/dr-7jqCSSZI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WfCfWSHRHsYuv04y&t=826
I think the title of the video should be changed to "What Production Katana Would You Buy..."
Otherwise, if we're only not talking nihonto, I would love a Howard Clarke L6 bainite.
Maybe the title could also be "What Motohara Should You Buy?" :)
I would probably go with their Hira Zukuri (already have swords for iai)
The title has to do with the question I get asked but I narrow it down to what I think people are asking. Maybe I shouldn't have.
@@Matthew_Jensen Well, to be fair, a video like this is extremely hard to do. First one has to have arbitrary dollar amount cut-offs set against the relatively arbitrary prices for the product. And that's not as helpful as it could be because then you have a number of $800 swords out there that most people agree are better than some brand popular $1,000 swords.
I think that would be too maddening to straight out all the nuances between various towards. I think the only thing we can really judge is if a particular sword is worth the price that somebody is asking for it
2 thousand dollars for a sword.
That's a nice rifle or pistol.
Then again, a firearm can't cut space and time. 🤠
Nowadays there is hardly anymore sword fight and if you have to be in a fight you definitely want to bring you firearm. For $2000 I can have myself a modern double stack 1911's that is faster and more lethal than any katana at any price. Of course each to his own. I think buying a high dollar katana is for the art of creating it rather than the actual slicing and chopping functions of it. I think most people who purchased a very high dollar katana would not be doing a lot of slicing and chopping, they pamper the katana like a baby and most definitely would not toss the katana in a range bag like we do with our firearms. For me, I would have a lot more fun with a high dollar firearm than with a high dollar katana. YMMV. Have a good day.
Why nothing directly from Tozando in Kyoto? I would think money no object one would buy a Japanese sword that was actually made by a Japanese craftsman by hand.
He clearly states that he is only talking about production swords that are readily available. Not custom blades from western or Japanese named smiths.
If money wasn't a factor, I wouldn't even go for a katana. I would go for a tachi. A traditional nihonto made in the Koto ways, in Ko-Bizen style, with a hyogo-gusari koshirae.
Katana is overrated. Tachi rules!
There are not many production tachi out there. Most of the examples I can think of are custom one off pieces. Though they are pretty cool blades.
@@Matthew_Jensen Yes. To this day, there is no historically accurate tachi reproduction. All of them are just katana blades slapped into tachi fittings.
If money was a bit of a factor but not too much, would your first choice still be the Bamboo Mat? How is it that you havent got the waki bamboo mat to talk about here on the channel since all that time (maybe I missed it, sorry in that case).
Is the Bamboo Mat strong enought to stop Putin's nuclear ogives? (I live in Europe), Peace lol
The bamboo mat I would choose requires some extra work and did not qualify for the video because of th extra leg work.
I’d buy the Albion Princepe…. katana
Albion made katana for a second many many years ago. At least a few prototypes.
@@Matthew_Jensen fun
> Money no factor
> High end katana
> STILL presents China-to
I like the Citadel the best out of those. The Motohara is OK, but I like Niku on a blade, not the flat sided grass-cutter geometry. That always seemed like cheating to me.
What most people don't realize is that katanas traditionally weren't made of high quality steel. Japanese blacksmiths needed to develop such refined, complicated and artful ways of making their swords, because the materials they were working with were of poor quality. They had to polish a turd, so to say.
The reason why katanas have that characteristic curve is not a design choice. They just naturally bend that way during quenching, because the lack of hard carbon steel forced them to only make the edge out of hard steel and use soft "pig iron" (x) style metal for the spine of the blade. When quenching that construct out of 2 different metals, the hard edge shrinks less than the soft spine, which bends the blade into a curve.
(x) It is called pig iron because cheap farming tools like pitchforks and the such used to be made out of low quality, soft iron.
I always have to laugh when I see some supposedly Japanese kitchen knife manufacturer advertise on TH-cam, claiming the knifes they sell are so great because they use high quality Japanese steel, based on traditional Japanese metallurgy knowledge and so on.
Japanese steel has always been bad. It only got good after WW2, when they rebuilt their economy copying American and European steel making technology.
There are interesting historical anecdotes like for example that during WW2 Germany gave blue prints and samples of jet and rocket engines to Japan, but the Japanese couldn't replicate them because they couldn't produce steel of high enough quality to make jet or rocket engines out of.
This is also why wakizashis were a thing. Katanas made of soft pig iron would bend frequently or the hard edge would break and chip, so you better had a backup sword with you.
They also had buckets standing in Japanese castles, comparable to the kind of bucket we use nowadays for storing umbrellas in, just filled with spare katanas, so people defending the castle could easily replace their easily damaged swords that way.
The point being, if you go for a authentic, historically accurate katana, don't expect it to be sturdy or durable. It is kind of a single use throwaway weapon. Some 40 Dollar wall hanger katana made out of cheap 440 stainless steel won't hold an edge well, but will actually be more sturdy and durable than a historically accurate pig iron katana.
You're tripping spreading they were weaker than 440 steel.
@@ssjronin3972 As I explained, they were mostly made of pig iron. Pretty much any steel used nowadays, even the cheapest one, is more durable.
@@TrangleC You spouted some well known facts but again you are tripping.
I'm a fan Matt, but it took you five minutes to get started.
I can understand if somebody want and need to have some cheap tools for traininig, but why are you collecting such garbage.
Can you explain?
I would fly to Japan and buy a 4-500 yr old katana antique. If money was no object. Just a dream of mine...
You don’t have to “fly to Japan”to purchase an authentic Katana .There are a number of reputable dealers of authentic Japanese sword here in the US ,I own several..
@@nesking3115 I e seen videos of these stores in Japan that have massive amounts of really great swords to look at. More for the experience than just for buying the sword
toshiro swords are the best ........