I just received my SS2 heater today. This is the best by far noise reduction of the fuel pump video I have seen. I came across your video because I was looking for a way to replaced the fuel pump with a quieter pump. I think replacing the rivets is the only solution in making this heater serviceable. But I am contemplating if I shouldn't wait until the warranty expires. I forgot how many videos I watched where mods were made and the fuel pump isn't much quieter. What a major improvement, Thanks!
I don't think so, the constant loud tick in the fuel pump is enough to give anyone some kind of disorder. Now you can be rest assured of getting a good nights sleep on your adventures. Time well spent! 👍
I purchased a Bluetti AC50B power station (700w/448wh/lifePO4) and I am interested in mating it with a H calory S22 heater. My concern is how many ( 8 hour runs/nights) could I expect to get with the Bluetti AC50B fully charged. I understand that diesel heaters can suffer damage if they are suddenly shut down by a power station that runs out of juice. The sole purpose of the power station is to run a diesel heater.
If you are going to run it on level 2-3 like we do, you should get two nights out of it without having to charge it. If you plan on more than that, then you will need some solar panels (if you are not going to be moving) or a DC/DC charger like the Bluetti Charger 1 if you will be moving from site to site.
I don't know of a better way to do it. However, I would have put down some JB Weld before inserting the rivnuts because the metal is so thin, I had some issues getting the rivnuts to hold well. I am nowhere good enough to weld some nuts to that thin metal. The best solution might have been to make some flag nuts so I could hold them in place while putting the bolts in.
@@TrailTravelerokay thank you that's really not what I wanted to hear seeing how it's 12° outside so after I get that old is it just a standard hook up as far as the heater to the base plate. It almost looks like I can get that fan housing off without taking anything apart but I'm not sure I've never had to work on this thing since I've owned it
It's not. There's four 10mm bolts on the bottom you can remove to take it out of the box. You'll need to remove the exhaust, air filter, then you can remove the bolts to the heater. It helps if you unscrew the fuel tank as well.
Question for ya.. i ordered one of these and I'm wondering if those feet are solid so I could screw extensions or wood block into them to extend the height?
No they aren't. You could screw down from inside into a wood block, but the access is very tight. If I can get around to getting the design right, I was going to 3D print leg extensions that you would just glue and then slide on over the existing ones, but I just haven't had the time to get the design right.
@@TrailTraveler That would be awesome, what about running a bolt with nut through... is the material too thin to hold up to that? Thank for the response.
Considering that if I am using a diesel heater, then it must be pretty cold outside, so I have no run into any issues. It probably also will help prevent the diesel from gelling up in colder temperatures.
Wouldn't that be like saying you should keep a window open when inside to prevent oxygen depletion? A tent is not a very well sealed container, so I don't have any concern about that.
I do not believe there is any danger there, no more so than simply closing all the windows on the tent would not cause you to suffocate, a tent is just too leaky.
@@TrailTraveler Would love to see another follow up video with step by step instructions how you replaced everything especially the fuel pump. For the diesel heater newbies this would be fantastic.
Yes, you just want to vent the diesel exhaust to the outside or put the unit outside and run the hot air vent to the shack. This is a pretty common use case for a diesel heater.
@@207-outdoorsman7 The simplest setup is to have the unit inside and vent the exhaust out. This also gives you the advantage of being able to use the thermostat control option.
Thank you for the video and your quick response to my question. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!
I just received my SS2 heater today. This is the best by far noise reduction of the fuel pump video I have seen. I came across your video because I was looking for a way to replaced the fuel pump with a quieter pump. I think replacing the rivets is the only solution in making this heater serviceable. But I am contemplating if I shouldn't wait until the warranty expires. I forgot how many videos I watched where mods were made and the fuel pump isn't much quieter. What a major improvement, Thanks!
Maybe I have more OCD than the other guys 😜
I don't think so, the constant loud tick in the fuel pump is enough to give anyone some kind of disorder. Now you can be rest assured of getting a good nights sleep on your adventures. Time well spent! 👍
Awesome video and loved the info for all of the improvments! Great idea for recirculating!
I subscribed, just watching this one video. Great upgrades!!!
What size fuel line is on it and what’s a good fuel filter? Thanks
I purchased a Bluetti AC50B power station (700w/448wh/lifePO4) and I am interested in mating it with a H calory S22 heater. My concern is how many ( 8 hour runs/nights) could I expect to get with the Bluetti AC50B fully charged. I understand that diesel heaters can suffer damage if they are suddenly shut down by a power station that runs out of juice. The sole purpose of the power station is to run a diesel heater.
If you are going to run it on level 2-3 like we do, you should get two nights out of it without having to charge it. If you plan on more than that, then you will need some solar panels (if you are not going to be moving) or a DC/DC charger like the Bluetti Charger 1 if you will be moving from site to site.
Knowing what you know now would you still add the riv nuts or something else?
I don't know of a better way to do it. However, I would have put down some JB Weld before inserting the rivnuts because the metal is so thin, I had some issues getting the rivnuts to hold well. I am nowhere good enough to weld some nuts to that thin metal. The best solution might have been to make some flag nuts so I could hold them in place while putting the bolts in.
Would love to have the files for those 3d prints. Do you have the available somewhere?
Not yet, working on it
Is that the only way to get that thing apart I have one I need to replace the fan motor assembly
Yup, its a bit of a pain in the ass. Then you either need to use rivets to reassemble it or put in rivnuts like I did.
@@TrailTravelerokay thank you that's really not what I wanted to hear seeing how it's 12° outside so after I get that old is it just a standard hook up as far as the heater to the base plate. It almost looks like I can get that fan housing off without taking anything apart but I'm not sure I've never had to work on this thing since I've owned it
It's not. There's four 10mm bolts on the bottom you can remove to take it out of the box.
You'll need to remove the exhaust, air filter, then you can remove the bolts to the heater. It helps if you unscrew the fuel tank as well.
Question for ya.. i ordered one of these and I'm wondering if those feet are solid so I could screw extensions or wood block into them to extend the height?
No they aren't. You could screw down from inside into a wood block, but the access is very tight. If I can get around to getting the design right, I was going to 3D print leg extensions that you would just glue and then slide on over the existing ones, but I just haven't had the time to get the design right.
@@TrailTraveler That would be awesome, what about running a bolt with nut through... is the material too thin to hold up to that? Thank for the response.
@@SolidBold00 that should work
Can you please share what rivnut sizes you used to replace the rivets. Thanks!
I was able to use M3 rivets but my casing was metal and not plastic.
I'm curious, since the fuel pump gets warm, is the insulation going to cause the pump to overheat? I have a few Heaters and this is one of them.
Considering that if I am using a diesel heater, then it must be pretty cold outside, so I have no run into any issues. It probably also will help prevent the diesel from gelling up in colder temperatures.
How about leg extensions?
How big of an area do you feel this heater would take care of?
@@steelpix it depends. It could probably do a 3 car garage if it was insulated well or a small shed if it’s not insulated
And remote temp sensor?
Do you remember what the nut rivet size was?
I don't recall exactly, I think I used 1/4"
I was able to use the M3 with my unit. My unit's casing was metal though, not plastic.
If you recycle the air going through the tent, wouldn't the oxygen become less and co2 increase and eventually become somewhat dangerous?
Wouldn't that be like saying you should keep a window open when inside to prevent oxygen depletion? A tent is not a very well sealed container, so I don't have any concern about that.
Could I pay you to do this if I sent you the same unit?
Thats weird mine is really quite did they upgrade?
This was a unit from 9 months ago, so I don't know if they have changed anything.
At the lowest heating level, is the pump still dead silent?
I can't hear it in my tent
If you recycle the air in your roof-tent, is there a danger of Oxygen depletion?
I do not believe there is any danger there, no more so than simply closing all the windows on the tent would not cause you to suffocate, a tent is just too leaky.
Any links to the quieter fuel pump please?
Links to everything are in the description. It is the WAYSKA Diesel Heater Fuel Pump: amzn.to/41GCgFP
@@TrailTraveler Would love to see another follow up video with step by step instructions how you replaced everything especially the fuel pump. For the diesel heater newbies this would be fantastic.
Can it be used inside ? Iceshack
Yes, you just want to vent the diesel exhaust to the outside or put the unit outside and run the hot air vent to the shack. This is a pretty common use case for a diesel heater.
@TrailTraveler right I'd like too no have too connected hoses every time I'm going put when.. I try to have everything inside
@@207-outdoorsman7 The simplest setup is to have the unit inside and vent the exhaust out. This also gives you the advantage of being able to use the thermostat control option.
@TrailTraveler only part that goes out side is hot exhaust correct
@@207-outdoorsman7 Yes, the metal pipe on the bottom of the unit
Output temp was 128 C? That is 262.4 F. WOW!!
Yeah, that was pretty low because it hadn't been running very long. On a high setting, 200-210C is common..