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You get used to having labcoat pockets so fast lol. I bought one for home use, (I don't like wearing pants and my housecoat is too hot in the summer) and I swear I find myself walking around hands in pockets all day long.
This wasn't the video of the planned 4 I was most looking forward to, but I REALLY enjoyed that! I love that the dynamic changed when Tom is in Lattice mode, can't help but be really professional :)
This test has some glaring gaps. What about max cycling distance on a tandem. Or running in climbing shoes. Clearly more important than a bit of finger strength 😂 Also, really great video 👌
I'd seen some of the other pro climbers do this and it was great to see Pete on this. Looking forward to seeing the reverse fixture. Would also like to see a split screen of Latice Tom testing Wideboyz Tom 🤔
Tom in a lab coat pointing at data on a screen that's bolted to a climbing wall - with the screen's feet still on. That has everything - with Pete next to him, of course.
Thats actually surprisingly bad for somebody of Pete's level imo. Perhaps thats because i assume better climbers should be better in pull ups than me (or much better), but my limiting factors are actually weak af fingers and lack of technique. P.S. i climb v7s in different gyms as comfortable one session projects (climbed V8, but doubt it was real V8), flash v6s in different gyms, so i guess should be around v6 outdoors at least and do 26 pull ups in somewhat consistent temp and form even on a bad day, so i assume i could score close to Pete at them even after other tests, but im not even remotely close to him at my climbing level nor fingerstrength nor technique for that matter
@@НиколайТобиас As you can see Pete scored well on pull ups for 8b+ climbers and he wasn't fresh. Pull up strength and endurance simply doesn't relate to climbing well. You have gym bros who can do 20 pulls up come into climbing and not able to do a properly graded V4 (not the soft modern popular gyms). Then you have some casual long term climbers who have perfected their techniques and have good fingers, but never bothered training strength seriously (mostly females) that can cruise through many V4s without being able to do a SINGLE body weight pull up - I personally know 3 of them. But they are limited in style of climbing as well as pushing higher grades. Even at V8 level which is the upper tiers of my climbing group, we have people that can do anywhere between sub 10 to 25 pull ups. If you want to climb harder, def don't spend too much time doing pull ups.
Very Informative! Still blows my mind about how strong Pete and other climbers are! I can't do a pull-up with my 22kg child on me, yet Pete does two with 45kg (aka both my children) on him...
Love, love, love this video! Tom is an excellent scientist and coach, brilliant laptop sticker 🤣. Pete is just a BEAST! I am not into climbing at all (living in The Netherlands, flatt as F 😉), but I find your videos so much fun to watch, feels like I'm there with you guys! 🥰 Keep m coming!
@@Dave1507 I know 😉. I've climbed once or twice as a teenager, really liked it! Was a bit stronger back then though, due to swimming. I don't think my arms and shoulders can keep up the hard work 🥵. But maybe I'll try it, just for fun!
@@Ensification Hey, I just started five months ago with bouldering, and I'm 42 years old now, my fitness was nonexistent, but I still managed to get up those walls (the easiest ones, obviously) and met so many cool friendly people there, made progress, and now am a regular at the gym. It's never too late to get back into shape ;) Leg work is more important than pulling strength anyway ;)
This is why Pete hammered all the Storror guys! He's preternaturally good at this aspect of climbing! I'd love to see Adam Ondra after this video. We know how competitive he is, though he's too bloody lovely to make a big deal of it! 😂 Haha.
This testing really shows you that strength isn't everything. Application of that strength is soooo sooo important! What does it matter if you can hang a bunch of weight if you don't know how to use it.
I feel like the answer to how to climb harder is ALWAYS finger strength 😂. I can be absolutely jacked and flexible like crazy but if my fingers (or toes really) can’t grip the rock, then i can’t put any power down. Its definitely my limiting factor right now and its very apparent 😢
Super interesting video. Really want to see those 8c+ and 9a attempts! Would also be awesome to see how Alex Honnold and Adam Ondra would do in the lattice test to get some more reference points and see how Pete compares.
I'm super happy you said that the low row is more applicable for some climbing than pull-ups. I've been saying that about the Pendlay row (basically the barbell version of the same thing) for a while now.
i love the pendlay too, but i think the low row is great because of the asymmetrical nature of it; the full scapular extension and retraction, driving through that other hand. it feels closer to climbing i think
@@charliexoxox Agreed, but I think there's enough transfer between the exercises that if you just train either consistently, you'll be able to do the other pretty well, which shows similar adaptation. For context, I never train low row, and can pretty easily low row the heaviest dumbbell in my gym (50lbs) which comes from Pendlay row training. Maybe I'd get something out of maxing out low rows but I don't have heavy enough dumbbells to do it. :) Doing symmetrical training is also less time consuming because you can do both sides at once.
I was wondering - what type of boulder would suit Pete best? I wouldn't imagine something with tiny, thin crimps because Pete's hands and fingers are absolutely massive!
pete has such a high score in critical force, seems like the curve is really flat, does that mean that he has a lower start force than the other contestants but he can maintain it better? would've been nice if you had said what scores the others had on there compared to bodyweight.
@@WideBoyz ahh, that makes sense, thank you for the answer! however, do people usually have around 35, 40, 45, 50 or 55% bodyweight as their critical force score? what would be a normal good score and what would be a "bad" score?
A follow up video would be awesome that shows exercises to improve at each performance metric. Specifically I am thinking about the ankle mobility test, its something I have tried before and would love to get better at but not sure what exercises best target it.
Calimove has a free mobility routine that they just released that includes some ankle mobility exercises. I'd recommend their programs for flexibility and calisthenics 110%
This was awesome! I'd love to see Caldwell, Honnold, and Ondra, Garnbret It would also be really cool to see pros that either use their skills and strength to allow the to do their job like Jimmy or older climbers who have passed the torch on cutting edge climbing but are still beasts like Conrad. (Felt weird using just their last names for some reason).
I would absolutely love to see a powerlifter or other non-climbing athlete try this test (with some training first to avoid injury of course). Those athletes might not have the specific strength required, but they absolutely have the commitment to trying hard and using 100% of their power
@@clown5911 The best would be a small powerlifter, in they 66kg or 74kg classes might be fun. They'll have crazy strength for their size, that's why wilks score effectively penalizes smaller lifters - more oomph per pound at that size.
Looking at Olympic lifters, the 61 kg records are over 5x body weight combined Snatch + Clean and Jerk. The 109 kg (last capped class) are just under 4x. The uncapped weight class guys aren't close to double the 61 kg record, but the record holder is himself list at about 3x their body weight at 182.9 kg
So that's what scientific torture looks like. And Pete seemed to like it... a lot ;) Results confirmed his 'beastiness'. Appreciated Tom's expertise and professionalism (no coat needed for that). Can't wait for his test.
That was super interesting! Just a bit of constructive feedback in terms of the video, but in the results reveal portion a tripod would have been amazing. The slight camera shake coupled with whatever digital image stabilisation being used was causing a lot of screen wobble and ‘wave’. Still an amazing video though 😁
Pete! It was great meeting you at Miguel's in the Red!! I doubt you got any footage while you were out there but if you did I'm sure we'd love to see it!
man that makes me feel good about my pull ups.. started training them recently and am at 5 reps with 58kg(+72kg bodyweight).. i guess no need training this anymore.. at least not for climbing
30:40 I´m not surprised he´s got the try-hard high-score... Tom himself has told us Pete puts in gut-wrenching efforts as his standard 7:00 th-cam.com/video/IDElVaVRJco/w-d-xo.html Pete himself: "You never really know how hard you can try, until you tried really hard on an off-width" 15:20 He can pretty much suffer really hard, endlessly. Props.
Super interesting look into the strengths of climbing and the lattice testing and very informative! I’m intrigued given that Pete has done crack for so long, how does it correlate with finger strength and crack routes in this? Can you do the same kind of hanging fongner strength things with crack holds?
We've done quite a lot of testing with crack climbers and big wall climbers over the years and unfortunately due to the specificity nature of grip types there's a pretty poor correlation between crack and face. The best match up is between finger crack climbing and face climbing... Basically you can be very elite in face and weak in cracks and vice versa!
I think you need a certain degree of pain tolerance to be a good climber. Im always worried im going to hurt my fingers when i have to pull too hard. That was a great watch
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
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Tom, a man who built an adult maze in his crawlspace, is an actual, full blown data scientist 😮
What a legend!
complete with a scientist coat!
🎉🎉🎉🎉 Tom is back 🎉🎉🎉
Link?
Yeah he's a huge data nerd :-) and I mean that in the most positive way
would be cool to see a personalized lattice training program for pete that he really sticks to for a couple of months and then do a re-test...
We're keen if Pete is... 😉
Would love this
And then share said program!
Pete, come on the gautlet has be been thrown down!
Please!
Love how Tom is happy when Pete gets a good score on any of the tests.
Tom looking like a jedi master
Or a butcher? 😂
tom IS a jedi master!
As much as Tom said he hated the lab coat, he's really enjoying the pockets by the end of the video.
Loved the lab coat.
Rumour has it, lattice tests have now adopted the lab coat as their company uniform...
You get used to having labcoat pockets so fast lol. I bought one for home use, (I don't like wearing pants and my housecoat is too hot in the summer) and I swear I find myself walking around hands in pockets all day long.
This wasn't the video of the planned 4 I was most looking forward to, but I REALLY enjoyed that! I love that the dynamic changed when Tom is in Lattice mode, can't help but be really professional :)
Tom has amazing knowledge and great insights in the lab coat
@@WideBoyz It's hard not to trust him, i'd suggest to him that he updates the Lattice uniform. Imagine that front and centre on the Lattice website
Pete is just my favourite climber in all of TH-cam. He’s a beast AND a nice person. Never get tired of seeing him grinding
All I want for christmas is more Tom and Pete!
Got some cracking vids on their way through Nov/Dec/Jan
This test has some glaring gaps. What about max cycling distance on a tandem. Or running in climbing shoes. Clearly more important than a bit of finger strength 😂
Also, really great video 👌
38 minutes to tell us Pete is an absolute beast. We knew that already! Love this technical break down of such a complex thing
I just love how Tom has this double personality
So professional and knowledgeable in this video🥸
"Let's see if I pass out." ... "I was slipping on my own blood." - Just an ordinary training session 😉
THE COLLAB WE'VE ALWAYS NEEDED
I love how tom is socially ackward about putting on the mab coat but then has a laptop with a huge pink unicorn on it
😂
Standards Denis. Standards. Unicorns rise above all... 🦄
I would actually really like to see Pete projecting hard routes like 9a! Keep it up boyz💪🏽
Really interesting, thanks. Conclusion: Pete is a beast!! The way he was relishing all the pain to come!
Would love to see the 9a trad completion. That would be one hell of an achievement.
It's not easy finding a 9a Trad route which is safe enough 😅
@@WideBoyz Tribe or Empath on gear?
The science here is amazing, the years/decades of research he's clearly put into these tests is next level!
And now here he is, climbing a (proposed) 9a crack! Hell yeah Pete.
Let’s go! So impressive strong and humble at the same time. You are an inspiring person Pete!
Pete is a beast of a climber, amazing and inspiring!
I'd seen some of the other pro climbers do this and it was great to see Pete on this. Looking forward to seeing the reverse fixture. Would also like to see a split screen of Latice Tom testing Wideboyz Tom 🤔
Would need to be carefully managed. Lattice Tom and Wideboyz Tom are never to be seen in the same room...
@@LatticeTraining it's not just the coat then...
Damn, everyone stepping up their thumbnail game these days. This is gonna be a sick vid! 🔥
Can't wait for Tom tests as well! And Pete is crazy strong, but we knew that :p
I'm looking forward to Tom's test as well
I'm taking notes
Pete is a confirmed BEAST! 🦁
Tom in a lab coat pointing at data on a screen that's bolted to a climbing wall - with the screen's feet still on. That has everything - with Pete next to him, of course.
24 pullups wow, super impressive tests. Awesome video chaps.. Love this channel keep the content coming!
I did 20 last night! Form was bad on the last 4 though. 😳
Thats actually surprisingly bad for somebody of Pete's level imo. Perhaps thats because i assume better climbers should be better in pull ups than me (or much better), but my limiting factors are actually weak af fingers and lack of technique. P.S. i climb v7s in different gyms as comfortable one session projects (climbed V8, but doubt it was real V8), flash v6s in different gyms, so i guess should be around v6 outdoors at least and do 26 pull ups in somewhat consistent temp and form even on a bad day, so i assume i could score close to Pete at them even after other tests, but im not even remotely close to him at my climbing level nor fingerstrength nor technique for that matter
@@НиколайТобиас As you can see Pete scored well on pull ups for 8b+ climbers and he wasn't fresh. Pull up strength and endurance simply doesn't relate to climbing well. You have gym bros who can do 20 pulls up come into climbing and not able to do a properly graded V4 (not the soft modern popular gyms). Then you have some casual long term climbers who have perfected their techniques and have good fingers, but never bothered training strength seriously (mostly females) that can cruise through many V4s without being able to do a SINGLE body weight pull up - I personally know 3 of them. But they are limited in style of climbing as well as pushing higher grades. Even at V8 level which is the upper tiers of my climbing group, we have people that can do anywhere between sub 10 to 25 pull ups. If you want to climb harder, def don't spend too much time doing pull ups.
After max pull-ups and 30 odd rows on each arm and the suffer fest......
Amazing video, love wide Boyz. I'm projecting my first 6b outdoors now 😂 . Gonna have to work on all of the above!
Very Informative! Still blows my mind about how strong Pete and other climbers are! I can't do a pull-up with my 22kg child on me, yet Pete does two with 45kg (aka both my children) on him...
All those different elements and their contribution to different climbing disciplines is fascinating!
8:10 Macbook for show, Thinkpad doing the real work as usual :D
Love, love, love this video! Tom is an excellent scientist and coach, brilliant laptop sticker 🤣. Pete is just a BEAST!
I am not into climbing at all (living in The Netherlands, flatt as F 😉), but I find your videos so much fun to watch, feels like I'm there with you guys! 🥰 Keep m coming!
There's always climbing gyms, you should give it a go, it's super fun!
@@Dave1507 I know 😉. I've climbed once or twice as a teenager, really liked it! Was a bit stronger back then though, due to swimming. I don't think my arms and shoulders can keep up the hard work 🥵. But maybe I'll try it, just for fun!
@@Ensification Hey, I just started five months ago with bouldering, and I'm 42 years old now, my fitness was nonexistent, but I still managed to get up those walls (the easiest ones, obviously) and met so many cool friendly people there, made progress, and now am a regular at the gym. It's never too late to get back into shape ;) Leg work is more important than pulling strength anyway ;)
@@Dave1507 Ah, great to hear! I'm 41, so that shouldn't be a problem then ;). Who knows, maybe a nice goal for 2023 :).
@@Ensification genoeg 40+-ers in de hallen hier!
Yes!!!!!!! Finally Pete’s scores are going public!!!!!
Pete, noticed you holding your hand during the scoring.... You good? That full crimp destructive testing looked brutal!
Great video, as always!
Love the crimp, all good 😎
Pete has the best attitude, love watching his content.
This is why Pete hammered all the Storror guys! He's preternaturally good at this aspect of climbing!
I'd love to see Adam Ondra after this video.
We know how competitive he is, though he's too bloody lovely to make a big deal of it! 😂 Haha.
This testing really shows you that strength isn't everything. Application of that strength is soooo sooo important! What does it matter if you can hang a bunch of weight if you don't know how to use it.
I feel like the answer to how to climb harder is ALWAYS finger strength 😂. I can be absolutely jacked and flexible like crazy but if my fingers (or toes really) can’t grip the rock, then i can’t put any power down. Its definitely my limiting factor right now and its very apparent 😢
They are what attached you to the rock, so it makes sense. Apart from in crack climbing, that uses different muscles in the hand
For the Imperial unit people… 157 lbs body weight and did 2 pull-ups with 99.2lbs. 😅 impressive!
Awesome vid. Pete is a superhero, get him a cape for his next climb!
Tom you better do this next!!! We need to see this.
We'll get Tom only this at some point when his finger has fully healed
Holy smokingtons Pete 🔥 If I was you I'd be dining out on those critical force scores for the rest of my life 😅
😂😂 that's what I do, I just can't move between the dining spots
Just ordered the test. I've been doing my own test for 5 years now, curious to see another method ! Thanks lattice !
I understand your point pete! there is a lot of subjetivity in the whole grade thing! awesome video!
Finally, the collab we've all been waiting for!
Super interesting video.
Really want to see those 8c+ and 9a attempts!
Would also be awesome to see how Alex Honnold and Adam Ondra would do in the lattice test to get some more reference points and see how Pete compares.
th-cam.com/video/6EoglUzcGWI/w-d-xo.html
8c+ trad route here
We need to see some arm wrestlers do these videos!
Reckon they'll be amazingly surprising.
Pete is such a beast!
That thumbnail 😂 I love it, you can see Pete’s other hand holding on from the other side, but it looks like he’s doing a one-finger pull up
ye i did several intense years of olympic rowing and seeing pete do these 47kg reps was pretty surprising
I'm super happy you said that the low row is more applicable for some climbing than pull-ups. I've been saying that about the Pendlay row (basically the barbell version of the same thing) for a while now.
i love the pendlay too, but i think the low row is great because of the asymmetrical nature of it; the full scapular extension and retraction, driving through that other hand. it feels closer to climbing i think
@@charliexoxox Agreed, but I think there's enough transfer between the exercises that if you just train either consistently, you'll be able to do the other pretty well, which shows similar adaptation. For context, I never train low row, and can pretty easily low row the heaviest dumbbell in my gym (50lbs) which comes from Pendlay row training. Maybe I'd get something out of maxing out low rows but I don't have heavy enough dumbbells to do it. :) Doing symmetrical training is also less time consuming because you can do both sides at once.
rewatching this after seeing Pete crush Crown Royale (9a) is awesome
Love Professor Tom! Well done, Pete 🙂
Love u Guys! For me, both of u, count to the best climbers! And all know Pete is a beast!
Congrats Pete! BEAST!
I think I had a flash back watching the results 😵
You are amazing Pete. Stay safe please.❤
Great upload, really enjoy the banter.👏🏻🔥🏴🧗🏻♂️
Now you need to get Honnold on and see how he gets on with the critical force test 🙂
I was wondering - what type of boulder would suit Pete best? I wouldn't imagine something with tiny, thin crimps because Pete's hands and fingers are absolutely massive!
Heel hooks, and something long. No hard moves 😂
@@WideBoyz What I'm hearing is Alphane. Go nuts. It seems like the thing to do for strong british climbers :)
This is comprehensive, super interesting and edifying - thank you!
pete has such a high score in critical force, seems like the curve is really flat, does that mean that he has a lower start force than the other contestants but he can maintain it better? would've been nice if you had said what scores the others had on there compared to bodyweight.
Yes what you say is right. Lower max force, but able to sustain it for longer. Other people's scores couldn't be said for data protection
@@WideBoyz ahh, that makes sense, thank you for the answer! however, do people usually have around 35, 40, 45, 50 or 55% bodyweight as their critical force score? what would be a normal good score and what would be a "bad" score?
The 1 thing Pete needs to get to 9a is a car
i have always enjoyed petes sock collection
Not surprised at all, Pete is crazy beast. The only person that could beat him would be Adam Ondra! Would be fun to see him here doing this test ;D
A follow up video would be awesome that shows exercises to improve at each performance metric. Specifically I am thinking about the ankle mobility test, its something I have tried before and would love to get better at but not sure what exercises best target it.
Calimove has a free mobility routine that they just released that includes some ankle mobility exercises. I'd recommend their programs for flexibility and calisthenics 110%
The man weight usually 69. Just perfect.
Super strong pete!
This was awesome!
I'd love to see Caldwell, Honnold, and Ondra, Garnbret
It would also be really cool to see pros that either use their skills and strength to allow the to do their job like Jimmy or older climbers who have passed the torch on cutting edge climbing but are still beasts like Conrad. (Felt weird using just their last names for some reason).
Such an awesome video!
It's so interesting to see quantitative measures for something as fluid as climbing
The whole internet speaking about the dangers of full crimping and Pete in here going all in on it for 4 minutes straight, blood and everything 😅
I would absolutely love to see a powerlifter or other non-climbing athlete try this test (with some training first to avoid injury of course). Those athletes might not have the specific strength required, but they absolutely have the commitment to trying hard and using 100% of their power
In the tests measured in percentage of body weight, a power lifter would not do so well despite being super strong.
@@clown5911 The best would be a small powerlifter, in they 66kg or 74kg classes might be fun. They'll have crazy strength for their size, that's why wilks score effectively penalizes smaller lifters - more oomph per pound at that size.
Looking at Olympic lifters, the 61 kg records are over 5x body weight combined Snatch + Clean and Jerk. The 109 kg (last capped class) are just under 4x. The uncapped weight class guys aren't close to double the 61 kg record, but the record holder is himself list at about 3x their body weight at 182.9 kg
Amazing video as always, super entertaining!
Thanks for tuning in 🤙
aaaah the mathematician in me has to mention that at 1:51 you're using 'greater than' symbols. otherwise, this was such a fun vid!
So that's what scientific torture looks like. And Pete seemed to like it... a lot ;) Results confirmed his 'beastiness'. Appreciated Tom's expertise and professionalism (no coat needed for that). Can't wait for his test.
Loved it 😎
the fact that pete did this all in one day is crazy!
Nice job Doc Tom and Machine Pete!
That was super interesting!
Just a bit of constructive feedback in terms of the video, but in the results reveal portion a tripod would have been amazing. The slight camera shake coupled with whatever digital image stabilisation being used was causing a lot of screen wobble and ‘wave’. Still an amazing video though 😁
It wold be really interesting to see how AO would score on this test.
Oh we would love the chance to test him! Hopefully soon 🤞
His ability to try hard gotta be high!
Very fun to watch and learn from the best!
Not sure how this came up on my feed as Im at a fitness level where i struggle to put on socks and also have never bouldered... but now.... must try!
Need a co-lab with the finger strength world class savage that is Aidan Roberts
Pete! It was great meeting you at Miguel's in the Red!! I doubt you got any footage while you were out there but if you did I'm sure we'd love to see it!
No footage from the red, sorry. Just a climbing trip, no filming 🙂
Be interesting to see Seb Bouin’s CF
Oooooh, I feel like his would be crazy. He seems a monster on power endurance stuff. Never seems to run out of gas.
Awesome! Surprised that Pete has "weak" fingers when doing crazy single finger jams
man that makes me feel good about my pull ups.. started training them recently and am at 5 reps with 58kg(+72kg bodyweight).. i guess no need training this anymore.. at least not for climbing
That's alot for sure 💪
30:40 I´m not surprised he´s got the try-hard high-score... Tom himself has told us Pete puts in gut-wrenching efforts as his standard 7:00 th-cam.com/video/IDElVaVRJco/w-d-xo.html Pete himself: "You never really know how hard you can try, until you tried really hard on an off-width" 15:20 He can pretty much suffer really hard, endlessly. Props.
Hell, it's about time! ;)
Super interesting look into the strengths of climbing and the lattice testing and very informative!
I’m intrigued given that Pete has done crack for so long, how does it correlate with finger strength and crack routes in this? Can you do the same kind of hanging fongner strength things with crack holds?
We've done quite a lot of testing with crack climbers and big wall climbers over the years and unfortunately due to the specificity nature of grip types there's a pretty poor correlation between crack and face. The best match up is between finger crack climbing and face climbing... Basically you can be very elite in face and weak in cracks and vice versa!
We saw this endurance strength during the hanging comp with Storror! Still insane to think about
could of guessed Pete would smash the critical force test, the man is a grinder!
That labcoat is really fitting for his role in this.
Edit: just realized it looks like a chef's coat😅
AMAZING VIDEO GUYS ! How would this scale in the O grade ? We got to see the one and only on this test !!!! Keep up the good work!
Totally fell for the thumbnail :D
I think you need a certain degree of pain tolerance to be a good climber. Im always worried im going to hurt my fingers when i have to pull too hard. That was a great watch
But are you worrying while climbing, or is it more before and after? Because from my experience it's always the latter ;)
It’s cool Bradley wiggins went into climbing after his cycling career finished
"I want to be taken seriously"... and the man has a unicorn on his laptop :D
I wonder what grade you could actually climb if you had no idea what the desingnatsd grade is. Another great Magnus/Pete comparison video! Yay!!
I love his Mac book 😆 6:16