Thank you SO MUCH for these tips!! We're about to tackle wall side kitchen countertop but were so nervous. The island went amazing but a backspash is much more challenging!!
I am doing my first countertop Monday and the Carrera marble with an integrated backsplash .. so I couldn’t-have asked for more info !!!! Thank you so much!
Thank you for an awesome video. My question is: Can I do the integrated backsplash first, let it dry and then do the countertops the next day? I really want to take my time with the backsplash and not have to rush. Thank you!!
I see that this is 4 years old, my first time seeing it. Some helpful advice for this type of application and I understand that it’s a sample board for the customer, and this is a pretty simple design. I think that’s good because a more detailed design and over an entire countertop, like 30 or 40 square feet, all by yourself could be a big undertaking. I’d say, keep it simple, use only one or two colors besides the base coat. Have a helper or two and maybe do a practice piece with them so everyone’s on the same page. At least someone to help spot areas that the color has pooled in the corner making a too dark spot and it sets up before you can spread it out. I think a goof in the corner would be next to impossible to correct because of being very difficult to sand in there and re epoxy it.
You are absolutely amazing.. I could watch you all day. I use epoxy on my bathroom cabinets which had 1/2 higher outer area than the inter area, awful. I've been working for weeks to remove the epoxy. I'm still not sure that when I'm finished, if that ever happens, what to try next. Oh, by the way, where are you from? I hear a bit of the south.
What are you using to hold the piece of counter up?? No matter what I search on Amazon I just can't find them! I don't know what I'm missing lol help please
how perfect does the substrate have to be before you coat with the epoxy. i made new countertops out of mdf and went over it with a belt sander with way to aggressive paper. I now have scratches over most of the surface even after sanding with 120 . will it be seen even after doing a dirty pour
Thank you for the video will this technique also work if you just using mica powder and alcohol should I do the same add very little wait for it to set up a bit and do more ?
carrin moore yes. You could definitely use this technique. Just let the Epoxy set up a bit before you add the alcohol. Be very conservative when adding the alcohol to the backsplash. Good luck and I would love to see your work. 😊
It depends on what epoxy you are using. I find it better to lightly torch instead of using alcohol. Too much alcohol on the surface can cause your finish to run and have a blurry appearance.
Oh I thought about it but don’t want to do that. I saw Mike in a 1 year TH-cam video today doing a habitat for humanity dual vanity sink that had a top like mine and he used a “Stone” Rustoleum paint that look like corian. I may play around with that or similar because then the paint design will stay on backsplash. Thank you for responding RK3!
I want to epoxy over tile. I’ve seen the method to fill with concrete and then a leveler. Is that still the best method? If so what kind of primer on the concrete?
That would be the best application method for sure. Just be sure to check the moisture before you proceed with pouring the epoxy. I use the bonding primer XIM which we sell on our website. 😊 www.rk3designs.com
I wait a minimum of 4 hours. Do a scratch test with your fingernail. If it scratches easier, you may need to add a little more product or wait a little longer. 😊
Stone pat has a thickener product you add to epoxy so you can do vertical surfaces like walls and baseboards. Have you ever used that product? It’s fairly inexpensive.
I have used the thickener, but I very rarely do vertical surfaces. I will pour flat then hang or attach to wall when dry. I do use the thickener with the quick coat to bond seams together.
@@marysorrells you can add the thickener but it will change the color of the epoxy. It will also give a sort of texture. Also effects like fracturing won't work over the epoxy with texture added. If I were going to use the thickener, I would trowel it on the whole countertop so the surface would all look the same. Let me play with it and I'll do a video. 🙂
I recommend always putting a flood coat (unless on a surface that doesn’t have much traffic and will be topped with the Ultimate Top Coat). You’ll pour the flood coat 24 hours after the color coat.
That will all depend on what products you’re using. With the Stonecoat white mica powder I have on my website, you can tint a gallon of Stonecoat epoxy with about .25 oz. (1/2 bag).
Robert Latham I’m not doing flooring right now in my business. I do know the SCC has fantastic flooring epoxy and also has some great tutorial videos about floors. 😊.
I have a customer that wants the look of a dirty pour but it’s an integrated bathroom counter. How can I get that look with the sink and back splash being part of it
You really won’t be able to do that sort of technique on a vertical surface. I would recommend doing a design on those surfaces prior to pouring the epoxy. Foils are a fantastic way to do those type of surfaces.
I have a house that we are in the finishing stages of. I chose to build my bartop and top it with a rock looking porcelain tile, put a decorative wooden edge on it and do an epoxy pour of approximately 1/8 to 1/2 epoxy pour over it to make it have a level top since it will be our eating surface. I never dreamed that it could not be done. A lot of my research has led me to believe this. It is brand new and I obviously don't want to grind it flat. Can I get some of your thoughts and possible solutions for this problem? The tile is made to be rough and to look like rocks. I got it at Home Depot and the name of it is MSI Neptune Gold. The tiles are 17.6" by 26.12" inches each. We did 1/16" grout. Help, please?
If I were doing this on my countertop, do I have to trowel it onto the surface or could I use my hands to cover the area? Also does it matter what I use for the "chop" brush? and also could white metallic powder be integrated in this look somehow?? I have ordered white powder, diamond dust and white metallic powders. I'll be mixing like a mad scientist.....LOL
You can most definitely use your hands but if it’s a large area it’s easier to trowel first then spread with your hand. You can use any sort of nylon synthetic brush. Just make sure you deshed it first. 😊
@@RK3Designs Ok that sounds great. And have you ever added slight, soft veins to this? I'd love to see the kitchen you did that you talked about with the stark white cabinets and this countertop. That's what I'm working with....the white cabinets.
I have a backsplash but it is not a part of the actual counter like your piece. It was added to the top of the countertop as a separate piece. It is laminate just like my countertop. It is flat on the top and straight down to counter so would I still use these same techniques? I know some of the epoxy will sit on the top of the backsplash since it is flat.
It there anyway you could remove the backsplash, make another one and install it? If not, you could absolutely use the same technique. I would router or sand down any 90 degree angles is you could. 😊
Michele L ....I have the same type of backsplash. I had my husband router them off, with a cove bit, as far as he could and then I sanded the corners just a little, so it looks like it was made that way. It really turned out nice. I primed and painted them and I’m waiting for my materials from Stone Coat. My husband thinks they look great right now. I don’t think he’s sure about the epoxy, but I have high hopes. Lol. We’ll see. Try it.
Michele L ....thanks. It turned out pretty good, for a first try. I didn’t put enough base white in my epoxy, so it’s not as white as I wanted. My fault and I didn’t get my vein muted down quite enough. My torch just wouldn’t stay lit, plus I’m afraid of it...lol. It looks so much better than the original, so I’m happy. If I knew how to upload a picture here, I would.
I just ordered SCC for my bathroom countertop and will be using this awesome vid as my template. My Q is, what do you use to clean your bushes and cups?
I just turn my buckets upside down and let them dry for a few days, then the epoxy just peels right out. The brushes I keep stored in a bucket with acetone. I take them out when I’m ready to use them again. Shake them off and dry. Don’t try to clean them and leave them out. They will get hard. 😊
Yes if you’re going over a slick surface You’ll need a bonding primer and then you’ll need some sort of paint as your base color. I use Behr paint and primer (which now I think they call Marquis)
Michelle Charles there is a thickening powder that you can use for vertical services. It does change the color a bit of the mica and or epoxy and you don’t get the same effects. It’s a cool product for sure, just not for this particular look. You use a trowel to apply it to your vertical surface.
The spray paint adds depth to the project. Even using opaque pigment, you can see the spray paint. It will be subtle, but it does add to the overall look. I've done it before and liked the way it came out.
Stonecoat countertop is very durable, but like natural stone, if something is left on the surface for any length of time, it could possibly stain. For extra durability, I suggest and we use in our business, the Ultimate Top Coat. It has INCREDIBLE scratch, stain and heat resistance on top of what the epoxy already offers.
Deila Hiebert that’s a great question. Basically the same way. You will pour your flood coat and address the backsplash as usual Save a little resign so that as your epoxy starts to set up, you can brush more onto. Your backsplash. Careful not to put too much because it will puddle at the base. Hope this helps a little. Feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions 😊.
I really love watching your tutorials!!! Can I purchase the “stuff” you put in the 91% alcohol at a local store here in Ft. Walton Beach, Florida? Are the spray bottles you use like those that can be bought at Walmart? Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent(s)!!!
Not showing the featured vertical (backsplash) surface *after* it's at least cured to touch makes this a pretty hollow presentation, I'm sorry to point out. In the absence of epilog video, I tend to assume it mostly ran down and left the surface very thinly coated - meaning this video was a strikeout for me.
If it’s not the bonding primers there’s a very good chance of adhesion failure. Depending on your substrate and the temperature. I’ve been called to fix many countertops that are poorly prepped with inferior products. A Basic all on one primer may work in some situations but why take that chance.
I will take this advice.. The two I've done are only 5 years old and in climate controlled homes so I don't have experience in less than ideal conditions. Thanks.
Sorry this wasn’t up to your standards. This was one our MY first videos. Would love to see your tutorials that you have spent time and effort putting together. 😊😊.
@@RK3Designs I don't have videos bc I am not an instructor duhh. I am a serious student...so who better to take constructive criticism from. Unless it makes you butt-hurt, then forget I said anything. Good day. P.S. but I do love your hair, I'm showing your pic to my hairdresser.
I assure you I’m not butt hurt. And if you think being RUDE is constructive then bless your heart. 😂. Oh and thanks for the hair compliment. My daughter cuts it.😊😊. It’s super easy to take care of. You’ll love it. 👌🏼👌🏼
Thank you Rhonda. This video is exactly what I need for my project in the vanities and kitchen countertop.
I would love to see another integrated backsplash tutorial. This was very informative. I want to try it myself. Just a little nervous about it.
Thank you SO MUCH for these tips!! We're about to tackle wall side kitchen countertop but were so nervous. The island went amazing but a backspash is much more challenging!!
Thank you SO MUCH for this! You answered all my questions perfectly and thoroughly. Life saver!
Oh good!! Thank you so much for watching. Glad I could help.
I am doing my first countertop Monday and the Carrera marble with an integrated backsplash .. so I couldn’t-have asked for more info !!!! Thank you so much!
YEAH!!! Good luck and I would love to see the finished product!!! Please tag me or send me a link so I can brag on you!!
How did you do on the integrated backsplash? Pics!!!
Thank you so much. I am planning to revamp a kitchen countertop in an old apartment and really didn't want to have to remove the backsplash.
Thanks!!! I was wondering how I could do my countertops with an integrated backsplash!
Was wondering how you do backsplash that is conected, Thanks!!
Thank you so much for all of your videos. Your a great teacher!!!
Thank you!!!! I appreciate you watching. 😊
I wanted to see the finished product to see how it turned out.I would simply use an enamel accent paint to the backsplash.
Thank you for an awesome video. My question is: Can I do the integrated backsplash first, let it dry and then do the countertops the next day? I really want to take my time with the backsplash and not have to rush. Thank you!!
That’s a great question, and yes you can certainly do that.
@@RK3Designs Thank you for a quick reply! I have been binge watching your videos, I love it, you are the best!
Came to ask this same question. I'm about to redo countertops like this and was baffled by the integrated backsplash
I see that this is 4 years old, my first time seeing it. Some helpful advice for this type of application and I understand that it’s a sample board for the customer, and this is a pretty simple design. I think that’s good because a more detailed design and over an entire countertop, like 30 or 40 square feet, all by yourself could be a big undertaking. I’d say, keep it simple, use only one or two colors besides the base coat. Have a helper or two and maybe do a practice piece with them so everyone’s on the same page. At least someone to help spot areas that the color has pooled in the corner making a too dark spot and it sets up before you can spread it out. I think a goof in the corner would be next to impossible to correct because of being very difficult to sand in there and re epoxy it.
You are absolutely amazing.. I could watch you all day. I use epoxy on my bathroom cabinets which had 1/2 higher outer area than the inter area, awful. I've been working for weeks to remove the epoxy. I'm still not sure that when I'm finished, if that ever happens, what to try next. Oh, by the way, where are you from? I hear a bit of the south.
What are you using to hold the piece of counter up?? No matter what I search on Amazon I just can't find them! I don't know what I'm missing lol help please
www.fireflyinnovationsor.com/shoplevelers. Use RK3 at checkout to recieve a discount.
how perfect does the substrate have to be before you coat with the epoxy. i made new countertops out of mdf and went over it with a belt sander with way to aggressive paper. I now have scratches over most of the surface even after sanding with 120 . will it be seen even after doing a dirty pour
I would hit it with 220 grit. Once you paint 2 coats of your paint/primer you’ll be fine. 😊
You're the.best thank-you!
Thank you for the video will this technique also work if you just using mica powder and alcohol should I do the same add very little wait for it to set up a bit and do more ?
carrin moore yes. You could definitely use this technique. Just let the Epoxy set up a bit before you add the alcohol. Be very conservative when adding the alcohol to the backsplash. Good luck and I would love to see your work. 😊
How do I stop divets in the rounded edges and the integrated backsplash? or repair them when it already cured?
Can you fog some denatured alcohol to spray over the bubbles ??
It depends on what epoxy you are using. I find it better to lightly torch instead of using alcohol. Too much alcohol on the surface can cause your finish to run and have a blurry appearance.
@@RK3Designs Thank you
Would recommend coming back with the ultimate epoxy clear coat?
I really like the hammered look, but I have post form tops. Can this application work for that look?
It depends on what design you’re wanting to do. Because the epoxy will self level, anything on a vertical will slide off.
Oh I thought about it but don’t want to do that. I saw Mike in a 1 year TH-cam video today doing a habitat for humanity dual vanity sink that had a top like mine and he used a “Stone” Rustoleum paint that look like corian. I may play around with that or similar because then the paint design will stay on backsplash. Thank you for responding RK3!
When you say you went a shade lower…was that on the primer or color coat? Or the stonecoat white base?
Any good tape method to keep painted wall protected when doing the backsplash?
I have a couple of videos on prepping. Check out part one of a two part video. 😊
th-cam.com/video/y1XSV-HqDW0/w-d-xo.html
This video helped me so much thank you very much
I want to epoxy over tile. I’ve seen the method to fill with concrete and then a leveler. Is that still the best method?
If so what kind of primer on the concrete?
That would be the best application method for sure. Just be sure to check the moisture before you proceed with pouring the epoxy. I use the bonding primer XIM which we sell on our website. 😊 www.rk3designs.com
Hi, do you think it's still doable if the backsplash is 1.5 ft vs the few inches you are showing? Thanks!
It will be very difficult to apply to a vertical surface that’s that tall. I would do a design “pre-epoxy” first so the design doesn’t run.
OMG I love the third design behind you. Do you have a how-to on that?
The one with the copper River? That’s a sample board our students did in class. I’ll have to put a tutorial together for TH-cam.
How long do you have to wait after using XIM before doing your color coat?
I wait a minimum of 4 hours. Do a scratch test with your fingernail. If it scratches easier, you may need to add a little more product or wait a little longer. 😊
Stone pat has a thickener product you add to epoxy so you can do vertical surfaces like walls and baseboards. Have you ever used that product? It’s fairly inexpensive.
I have used the thickener, but I very rarely do vertical surfaces. I will pour flat then hang or attach to wall when dry. I do use the thickener with the quick coat to bond seams together.
@@RK3Designs but what about using the thickener with the colored epoxy for the intergraded backsplash ?
@@marysorrells you can add the thickener but it will change the color of the epoxy. It will also give a sort of texture. Also effects like fracturing won't work over the epoxy with texture added. If I were going to use the thickener, I would trowel it on the whole countertop so the surface would all look the same. Let me play with it and I'll do a video. 🙂
Is it possible to achieve the look you want with paint, then just pour clear epoxy over that?
You bet!!
How long should you wait to coat epoxy after applying the bonding primer????
I will wait until it’s thoroughly dry and you can’t scratch the surface off with your fingernail.
At what point do you do the flood coat? Once the designed layer is completed? Or is a flood coat not needed?
I recommend always putting a flood coat (unless on a surface that doesn’t have much traffic and will be topped with the Ultimate Top Coat). You’ll pour the flood coat 24 hours after the color coat.
How much white base (metallic power) you will use to mix 1 Gallon epoxy for best result? Thanks!
That will all depend on what products you’re using. With the Stonecoat white mica powder I have on my website, you can tint a gallon of Stonecoat epoxy with about .25 oz. (1/2 bag).
Great job!! Could you do some samples that can be applies to flooring?
Robert Latham I’m not doing flooring right now in my business. I do know the SCC has fantastic flooring epoxy and also has some great tutorial videos about floors. 😊.
I have a customer that wants the look of a dirty pour but it’s an integrated bathroom counter. How can I get that look with the sink and back splash being part of it
You really won’t be able to do that sort of technique on a vertical surface. I would recommend doing a design on those surfaces prior to pouring the epoxy. Foils are a fantastic way to do those type of surfaces.
I have a house that we are in the finishing stages of. I chose to build my bartop and top it with a rock looking porcelain tile, put a decorative wooden edge on it and do an epoxy pour of approximately 1/8 to 1/2 epoxy pour over it to make it have a level top since it will be our eating surface. I never dreamed that it could not be done. A lot of my research has led me to believe this. It is brand new and I obviously don't want to grind it flat. Can I get some of your thoughts and possible solutions for this problem? The tile is made to be rough and to look like rocks. I got it at Home Depot and the name of it is MSI Neptune Gold. The tiles are 17.6" by 26.12" inches each. We did 1/16" grout. Help, please?
My Formica counter tops have a 45 degree edge (chamfer edge) … do I need to round them? And how?
Why cant you tape the top edge and add extra just like you do with the bottom edge. Instead of being limited to boring spray paint and clear epoxy?
Finished product?
Can I use white spaypaint in the base rather then the powder?
If I were doing this on my countertop, do I have to trowel it onto the surface or could I use my hands to cover the area? Also does it matter what I use for the "chop" brush? and also could white metallic powder be integrated in this look somehow?? I have ordered white powder, diamond dust and white metallic powders. I'll be mixing like a mad scientist.....LOL
You can most definitely use your hands but if it’s a large area it’s easier to trowel first then spread with your hand. You can use any sort of nylon synthetic brush. Just make sure you deshed it first. 😊
@@RK3Designs Ok that sounds great. And have you ever added slight, soft veins to this? I'd love to see the kitchen you did that you talked about with the stark white cabinets and this countertop. That's what I'm working with....the white cabinets.
I have a backsplash but it is not a part of the actual counter like your piece. It was added to the top of the countertop as a separate piece. It is laminate just like my countertop. It is flat on the top and straight down to counter so would I still use these same techniques? I know some of the epoxy will sit on the top of the backsplash since it is flat.
It there anyway you could remove the backsplash, make another one and install it? If not, you could absolutely use the same technique. I would router or sand down any 90 degree angles is you could. 😊
Michele L ....I have the same type of backsplash. I had my husband router them off, with a cove bit, as far as he could and then I sanded the corners just a little, so it looks like it was made that way. It really turned out nice. I primed and painted them and I’m waiting for my materials from Stone Coat. My husband thinks they look great right now. I don’t think he’s sure about the epoxy, but I have high hopes. Lol. We’ll see. Try it.
MJP51 good luck!
Michele L ....thanks. It turned out pretty good, for a first try. I didn’t put enough base white in my epoxy, so it’s not as white as I wanted. My fault and I didn’t get my vein muted down quite enough. My torch just wouldn’t stay lit, plus I’m afraid of it...lol. It looks so much better than the original, so I’m happy. If I knew how to upload a picture here, I would.
MJP51. The nice part of epoxy from what they say when your tired of it later on down the line you can go over it with another design.
Can I just use a heat gun with this process?
Heat guns are good but usually don’t pop the bubbles as well as a torch will.
What if the old counter top has cracks. What can I do to prep that before putting the primer
Great question! I like to use Bondo to fill any cracks or low spots. 👍🏼
I just ordered SCC for my bathroom countertop and will be using this awesome vid as my template. My Q is, what do you use to clean your bushes and cups?
I just turn my buckets upside down and let them dry for a few days, then the epoxy just peels right out. The brushes I keep stored in a bucket with acetone. I take them out when I’m ready to use them again. Shake them off and dry. Don’t try to clean them and leave them out. They will get hard. 😊
Do you need to do both primers, or one or the other?
Yes if you’re going over a slick surface You’ll need a bonding primer and then you’ll need some sort of paint as your base color. I use Behr paint and primer (which now I think they call Marquis)
Rhonda..is there a thickener that you add to the epoxy for vertical surfaces or would this not work in this case?
Michelle Charles there is a thickening powder that you can use for vertical services. It does change the color a bit of the mica and or epoxy and you don’t get the same effects. It’s a cool product for sure, just not for this particular look. You use a trowel to apply it to your vertical surface.
@@RK3Designs thank you for clearing this up. I love your technique here and am following all the SCC family!
How long before a drop in sink can be installed after pour?
I would think the epoxy would catch on fire when using the torch? It IS flammable!!! That scared me when you started using the torch!!
Actually the Stonecoat countertop epoxy we use isn’t flammable and very safe to use a torch.
Awesome tutorial! Thank you!
Thanks!!! I appreciate you watching!
Thanks for sharing... Nice beautiful...
You bet. Thanks for watching 😊
Why did you use spray paint in the very beginning if you were gonna cover it with opaque white. Trying to understand the process
The spray paint adds depth to the project. Even using opaque pigment, you can see the spray paint. It will be subtle, but it does add to the overall look. I've done it before and liked the way it came out.
Will the epoxy absorb color from coffee , veggies etc.....?
Stonecoat countertop is very durable, but like natural stone, if something is left on the surface for any length of time, it could possibly stain. For extra durability, I suggest and we use in our business, the Ultimate Top Coat. It has INCREDIBLE scratch, stain and heat resistance on top of what the epoxy already offers.
Will this yellow over time?
Great tutorial
How long do I wait to put on the flood coat
I wait at least 12-15 hours. 😊
@@RK3Designs thanks for the response😊
How do you do the final top coat with the integrated back.
Deila Hiebert that’s a great question. Basically the same way. You will pour your flood coat and address the backsplash as usual Save a little resign so that as your epoxy starts to set up, you can brush more onto. Your backsplash. Careful not to put too much because it will puddle at the base. Hope this helps a little. Feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions 😊.
That’s helpful so you basically just roll it on rather than pour it from the top of the backsplash?
Is this a water based epoxy?
k d no it’s not a water based product.
your cup looks to have much more than 10 ounces in it??? did you mean 10 each of the resin and hardener for 20 total?
No, my sample board was 3 sq ft. So all I needed was 9 oz, just made 10 for easy math. 😂.
@@RK3Designs Thanks....I struggle making 3oz PSF stretch far enough...
How do I redo a island split with the top island in the lower island
Thanks for the video and your tips!
Thank you and thanks so much for watching!!!
Do you find it easier to stick to basic finishes when working with an integrated backsplash?
Donna Miller Custom Creations yes ma’am. Very intricate or designs with a lot of alcohol spritz seem harder.
Can you do fracture lines on this ?
I really love watching your tutorials!!! Can I purchase the “stuff” you put in the 91% alcohol at a local store here in Ft. Walton Beach, Florida? Are the spray bottles you use like those that can be bought at Walmart? Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent(s)!!!
It's their magic metallics mica!
Spray bottles can be found at Lowes or Home Depot
Thanks for the tips!
Show the finished without taped corner?
Just saw you on SC and came to subscribe
Awesomeness!!!
THANK YOU!
Could you do the backsplash area with some thickener added in? Would that allow for a more involved design?
The only thing with adding thickener is it will change the texture and the color. 😩
Not showing the featured vertical (backsplash) surface *after* it's at least cured to touch makes this a pretty hollow presentation, I'm sorry to point out. In the absence of epilog video, I tend to assume it mostly ran down and left the surface very thinly coated - meaning this video was a strikeout for me.
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 👍🏼
Thanks I stopped watching based on your comment
You getting really fin girl
MJP51 👌
Two coats Kiltz and it will be fine.
If it’s not the bonding primers there’s a very good chance of adhesion failure. Depending on your substrate and the temperature. I’ve been called to fix many countertops that are poorly prepped with inferior products. A Basic all on one primer may work in some situations but why take that chance.
I will take this advice..
The two I've done are only 5 years old and in climate controlled homes so I don't have experience in less than ideal conditions. Thanks.
She Tinted the base.? She went a shade lower? When did that step happen??..they should show the work in more detail instead of all the blah blah blah
Sorry this wasn’t up to your standards. This was one our MY first videos. Would love to see your tutorials that you have spent time and effort putting together. 😊😊.
@@RK3Designs I don't have videos bc I am not an instructor duhh. I am a serious student...so who better to take constructive criticism from. Unless it makes you butt-hurt, then forget I said anything. Good day.
P.S. but I do love your hair, I'm showing your pic to my hairdresser.
I assure you I’m not butt hurt. And if you think being RUDE is constructive then bless your heart. 😂. Oh and thanks for the hair compliment. My daughter cuts it.😊😊. It’s super easy to take care of. You’ll love it. 👌🏼👌🏼
Translate Karen
Stone coat excuse me