Satin Polyurethane will remain a gloss to semi -gloss finish if not completely stirred in the can before and during the application. This means a good 5-10 mins. of stirring. Do not shake the can as it will cause air bubbles that take days to disapate. The more coats you apply the more gloss is achieved in the finish. This I have experienced as a professional painting contractor for over 30 years. All satin products need complete mixing to achieve your satin finish. I appreciate your videos and most all your advice is spot on. Your are a good role model for all the young DYI'ers. Keep up the good work!
Completely agree I was a paint chemist and manufacturer for 35 years You must stir vigorously every can of paint for at least 10 minutes from the bottom
This is everything you need to know if you're a DIYer or a Professional learning to protect paint and stain. The information is inclusive, and presented in a logical order, thank you for this great video.
4:15 -Thank You for explaining the Dry times between the two different poly types AND time BETWEEN Coats and when to re-apply etc. This will help the current project we are doing since we have a can each of both oil based and water based and just bought a combo ( Varathane poly + water based ) Stain ! Assuming we can finish with either one but fumes, dry time in between, and clean up, are the game changers on what to use. Thanks again !
Nice explanation of the differences. I like the durability of oil-based. After a few years, the two look very similar. If you finish with oil based poly, do not throw the rags in the trash. They can start a fire. I've seen it happen. I like to hang them up to dry. The next day they are dry and perfectly safe.
Ah hanging them. Thank you! I was never sure what to do with these stupid rags. I been throwing them in a bucket of water but now don’t know what to do with that mess. Was also laying them all over the place. Now I’m going to do a little clothes line. 👍
Polyurethane does not oxidize cure, it dries. Urethane doesn’t spontaneously combust because it is solvent drying. Linseed or other similars like Tung Oil do create heat because it cures. This generates heat and a balled up rag can combust as it cures and oxidizes.
Whew. Talk about taking me to school! I painted a huge antique desk in chalk paint, two toned, black top with white body and black hardware. I knew wax wasn't going to protect the top from all the activities. So I came here to see if I was correct in going with the poly on the top. I'm going to go with the wax on the white. Can't even think about yellowing and possibly having to redo it. That would be my special nightmare. I've liked, commented and sub'd. I love yr no nonsense approach to yr content. Thx for yr time and knowledge. U rock!
Well, I think you can achieve a somewhat natural look but it's more work. If you apply thin coats and at the end you rub the finish with an abrasive pad (synthetic steel wool), I suppose you can get rid of the gloss and plasticky look. I'm going to try soon because I don't usually like the look of the water based products but sometimes I need protection with no yellowing. And always prefer less harmful stuff if possible.
I am a professional painter and have my own company and you didn’t awesome!Excellent job ! at explaining the differences between these two especially with the white and how polyurethane will definitely yellow it and ruin your project before it’s too late. Awesome job.👍
Thank you so much for this video! Very informative and now I know that I should use polycrilic to finish my countertops instead of the polyurethane I was planning on using. You rock!
Thank you for this info! It was exactly what I needed to know and you explained it all so well 👍 The only thing I would say is do not throw any rags with oil based products on them in the trash! They absolutely CAN and do combust without any spark or ignition agent. 😳 Apparently as the “drying” type oils (as opposed to kitchen oils that stay wet) start evaporating they heat up. If the rag is balled up it gets too hot and can combust on its own. 🔥 They say dry flat or put in sealed container of water. Someone here said to hang them to dry which is a great idea. 👍 Thanks again and I subscribed.👏
I truly thank you for all this information. I’m finished with the top of my dining room table and love it. However, I had planned to stain it. But now, I like it as is and will apply ten coats of polyacrylei as you advised. Wish me luck!
TY for this info. I'm about to polyacrylic a coffee table I just refinished. I chose the polyacrylic because of the clean up & being less toxic. I didn't know I would need so many layers, so I'll be sure to do 5 to 6. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful
Please make sure to lay out any rags used for oil based products flat until they're dry before throwing them in the trash. If it's bunched up, the fumes can increase the temperature high enough to spontaneously combust (a lot of garage fires start that way). Once it's dry enough to stop off-gassing, it should be fine to throw out.
Thank you for this comment! Directions on cans either say not to throw out the rags, but they not what to do with them, or they say "dispose of properly" but don't say what that is. Now I know that once the fumes are gone, the dry rags are safe to discard. Thanks!
I have a bar top that's 1x10 pine. What would you recommend using for a water resistant finish on that. That also won't change to much of the color of the pine now.. Thank you
You did an excellent job on this video, thanks. You're concise, well-informed and you get right down to business. Way too many videos are useless prattle to about the half mark when they begin to address what the title says they'll address.
I’m experimenting with Varathane’s water based polyurethane on a wood project. You can apply coats every 2-3 hours and fumes aren’t too bad. It even goes on milky so you can see what’s going on then it dries clear.
Hi, thanks for this video! Just wanted to mention that I recently found Polycrylic in a clear Ultra Flat finish at Lowes. I did a test against the satin finish, this ultra flat is a winner! I'm sealing a chevron style red oak farm door.
I just got a Polyurethane product that is water-based (soap and water clean up). It's Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane 3X, in clear matte finish (the one I chose), for interior projects on stained or bare wood. I haven't tried it yet, but it says it's an "advanced self-leveling formula", and it's one coat is as thick as 3 coats of traditional poly, allowing projects to be completed in only 1 coat. It also has quick drying times: 2 hours to the touch, 48 hrs for moderate use of project, and 7 days for total cure time.
thank you, i painted some wooden shelves white but they are hard to wipe clean when they get dusty. So i was looking for something clear i could use over the paint to make then easier to wipe down. This helped alot. 😁
Hey Melissa , there is an element you're missing which is addressed by Stumpy Nubs video " How to apply a nice satin/ matte wood finish " . In it he discusses how satin and matte polycrylic finishes have silica flattening agents that require specialized stirring so they don't settle to the bottom of the can . Also wax is used to create matte finishes on period pieces along with shellac and varnish.
This was so helpful. It's so great to see other women doing DIY and sharing their tips. What do you think about a Varathane Diamond Finish? How does that compare to a polycrylic or polyurethane finish? Would like a video on this!
Excellent, to-the-point video, and VERY helpful. I wish I had seen it before using polyurethane over a latex gray painted surface a couple of months ago. It now looks like I varnished over the gray. UG-LY!!! I'm going to re-do my project, and I'll use polycrylic for sure this time. THANK YOU!!!
I am new to paining with chalk paint. I painted my dresser and used wax. I did two coats of wax but got water marks very easily. I sanded it and painted again. I bought both polyurethane and polycrylic, but I’m not sure which will be better. I love the color and don’t want to ruin it. I need it to have some level of water resistance since I decorate with plants. Thank you so much for your informative videos.
I'm new to wood working, but so far I love the Polyurethane, seems like I can do the project with 3 coats of urethane, where the water base take's double. I have been making Adirondack Chair's, and the oil base really makes the cedar pop out...
That sounds like the perfect application for outside chairs and I agree that polyurethane goes on with less coats than polycrylic. Thanks for your comment!!
From the UK: Thank you so much @Welcome To The Woods. After watching several other videos & trying to learn the best way to protect our revamped painted wooden kitchen table, your video gave me all the answers I needed in one go. Very much appreciated. Ordered the Minwax Polycrylic from Amazon, as it's not generally available here in stores. Subbed & rang the bell...you smashed this one for me 💥
Wow I happened upon your video in the nick of time! Getting ready to seal chalk painted table...only did two coats...look like I have some more work to do! Thank you for sharing😊k
Yes polyurethane come IN Water base AND Oil base... Water base dries quicker and is better for retouch-ups on wood and oil base is good for natural original woods that's never been stained or polished
Also comes in an oil-modified (like minwax), so it drys ultra fast over oil or water base stains with easy water clean up and no smelly vapors. Those cheap white paint pads for edging/cutting in walls to ceilings work amazingly well for clear coats and stain! if washed out and kept wet, i can use the one same pad on well over 2000+ linear feet of 5' tongue and grove n.p. About the same with oil base stain, one dip in mineral spirits and blow out with air compressor keeps them very clean with minimal waste and skin contact.
Been there, done that with poly yellowing over a beautiful project. Great job. Keep up the great work. Wow, if you aren't a spokeswoman for Minwax, you should be. Love your hair.
This is so helpful. I’m about to start one two different projects and I think that I will do both products on both projects but different areas of the projects (depending on the paint color I use, and how much use they will be subjected to). Very direct very concise. I will check out more of your videos!
I just started using polyacrylic and Im using it in my diamond puzzles. It so beautiful it doesn't dim the shine of the diamonds, it makes them shinier. Most people use midge podge to seal diamond puzzles I used Midge podge to seal their puzzles I hate it .I'm loving Polyacrylic
Great video! Thanks! I just finished painting my kitchen table using white chalk paint, I waxed it and bought a poly product, matt finish, hope this is correct.
Thank you for this useful video! I just painted an old Ikea Kallax bookcase and made doors for it. Waiting for it to cure. Do you think it matters if I use a Minwax vs a Varathane polycrylic?
Satin Polyurethane will remain a gloss to semi -gloss finish if not completely stirred in the can before and during the application. This means a good 5-10 mins. of stirring. Do not shake the can as it will cause air bubbles that take days to disapate. The more coats you apply the more gloss is achieved in the finish. This I have experienced as a professional painting contractor for over 30 years. All satin products need complete mixing to achieve your satin finish. I appreciate your videos and most all your advice is spot on. Your are a good role model for all the young DYI'ers. Keep up the good work!
Completely agree
I was a paint chemist and manufacturer for 35 years
You must stir vigorously every can of paint for at least 10 minutes from the bottom
This is everything you need to know if you're a DIYer or a Professional learning to protect paint and stain. The information is inclusive, and presented in a logical order, thank you for this great video.
4:15 -Thank You for explaining the Dry times between the two different poly types AND time BETWEEN Coats and when to re-apply etc. This will help the current project we are doing since we have a can each of both oil based and water based and just bought a combo ( Varathane poly + water based ) Stain ! Assuming we can finish with either one but fumes, dry time in between, and clean up, are the game changers on what to use. Thanks again !
Nice explanation of the differences. I like the durability of oil-based. After a few years, the two look very similar.
If you finish with oil based poly, do not throw the rags in the trash. They can start a fire. I've seen it happen. I like to hang them up to dry. The next day they are dry and perfectly safe.
Ah hanging them. Thank you! I was never sure what to do with these stupid rags. I been throwing them in a bucket of water but now don’t know what to do with that mess. Was also laying them all over the place. Now I’m going to do a little clothes line. 👍
Polyurethane does not oxidize cure, it dries. Urethane doesn’t spontaneously combust because it is solvent drying.
Linseed or other similars like Tung Oil do create heat because it cures. This generates heat and a balled up rag can combust as it cures and oxidizes.
Wow SUPER informative with no pointless filler!!!
Came here for advice and now I'm in love so that's cool.
😂👍
Lmao I was too mesmerized too learn a damn thing
I concur!
She’s pretty
Son of a bitch I hear ya
I have been using Poly for decades and gained info.... Great presentation.
Thank you for your honesty, many you tubers won’t tell you details and you’ll end messing up your stuff 🤦🏻♀️
Wow! Wonderful walk through the material. Not one wasted word or distraction. I hope you continue doing videos.
This is one of the best videos.. you saved me hours and a headache.. thank you
The most non annoying and informative video! Thank you so much!
A most complete unbiased informative video. Gives you everything you want to know and everything you need to know. Thanks for sharing. - Grampa Joe
Whew. Talk about taking me to school! I painted a huge antique desk in chalk paint, two toned, black top with white body and black hardware. I knew wax wasn't going to protect the top from all the activities. So I came here to see if I was correct in going with the poly on the top. I'm going to go with the wax on the white. Can't even think about yellowing and possibly having to redo it. That would be my special nightmare. I've liked, commented and sub'd. I love yr no nonsense approach to yr content. Thx for yr time and knowledge. U rock!
This was fantastic. Quick and to the point. No nonsense talk. I love this video 💜
Yes! Yes! & Yes! I totally agree!!! Well done!
1:38 was exactly what I needed. THANK YOU 🙏
Well, I think you can achieve a somewhat natural look but it's more work. If you apply thin coats and at the end you rub the finish with an abrasive pad (synthetic steel wool), I suppose you can get rid of the gloss and plasticky look. I'm going to try soon because I don't usually like the look of the water based products but sometimes I need protection with no yellowing. And always prefer less harmful stuff if possible.
I am a professional painter and have my own company and you didn’t awesome!Excellent job ! at explaining the differences between these two especially with the white and how polyurethane will definitely yellow it and ruin your project before it’s too late. Awesome job.👍
Best video on Polycoat. Simple to the point no bs!
Thank you so much for this video! Very informative and now I know that I should use polycrilic to finish my countertops instead of the polyurethane I was planning on using. You rock!
Thank you for this info! It was exactly what I needed to know and you explained it all so well 👍
The only thing I would say is do not throw any rags with oil based products on them in the trash! They absolutely CAN and do combust without any spark or ignition agent. 😳
Apparently as the “drying” type oils (as opposed to kitchen oils that stay wet) start evaporating they heat up. If the rag is balled up it gets too hot and can combust on its own. 🔥 They say dry flat or put in sealed container of water. Someone here said to hang them to dry which is a great idea. 👍
Thanks again and I subscribed.👏
I truly thank you for all this information. I’m finished with the top of my dining room table and love it. However, I had planned to stain it. But now, I like it as is and will apply ten coats of polyacrylei as you advised. Wish me luck!
Great info! Don't use water-base on wood benches and tables. I did and after time, it became sticky. Use oil-base. More durable and not sticky
But what if I painted a chair white and don’t want it to yellow?😶
From Buffalo. N.Y. Thanks for the tips. I was using Polyurethane on dresser drawers both inside and out. Once again, THANKS for the tips.
TY for this info. I'm about to polyacrylic a coffee table I just refinished. I chose the polyacrylic because of the clean up & being less toxic. I didn't know I would need so many layers, so I'll be sure to do 5 to 6. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful
Go with an oil modifed finish. You still have water clean up and a better finish.
Excellent job defining the differences between polyurethane and polycrylic.
Please make sure to lay out any rags used for oil based products flat until they're dry before throwing them in the trash. If it's bunched up, the fumes can increase the temperature high enough to spontaneously combust (a lot of garage fires start that way). Once it's dry enough to stop off-gassing, it should be fine to throw out.
Thank you for this comment! Directions on cans either say not to throw out the rags, but they not what to do with them, or they say "dispose of properly" but don't say what that is. Now I know that once the fumes are gone, the dry rags are safe to discard. Thanks!
Well I learnt something new from watching your staircase renovation and had to find out about the poly acrylic and your channel pops up again, thanks!
Ha awesome! I'm glad 🙂
I really enjoyed your informative video on Polyurethane and Polycritic!
Well done!
Thank you soo much. I now know the difference and appreciate how direct and succinct your video is. Great video
Clutch video. Helped me out when choosing a top coat for my bench. New to woodworking.
Good to hear! :)
So knowledgeable
Thank you for talking about the yellow tinting! I had to learn the hard way.
this is an incredibly precise breakdown, excatly what I was looking for. thank you for respecting my time, instant subscribe
This was extremely helpful! Thank you!
I have a bar top that's 1x10 pine. What would you recommend using for a water resistant finish on that. That also won't change to much of the color of the pine now.. Thank you
You did an excellent job on this video, thanks. You're concise, well-informed and you get right down to business. Way too many videos are useless prattle to about the half mark when they begin to address what the title says they'll address.
I’m experimenting with Varathane’s water based polyurethane on a wood project. You can apply coats every 2-3 hours and fumes aren’t too bad. It even goes on milky so you can see what’s going on then it dries clear.
do u think this would work well as a sealant on laminate flooring?
@ I think they sell a special variety of urethane for flooring because of foot traffic.
@@Broncort1 thanks
Thank you so much for clear explanation. I'll be staining and applying one of poly for the first time for couple of upcoming projects. Subscribed!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for subbing! 🙂
Excellent video. I wish I would have seen this before applying the Polyurethane.
Did you put it over white paint?
Me too!
Me too! I painted my cabinets with off white a few years back they're now yellow. I'm going to be redoing them. This helped a lot.
You did a great job helping me with my questions, thank you for making this vid
Hi, thanks for this video! Just wanted to mention that I recently found Polycrylic in a clear Ultra Flat finish at Lowes. I did a test against the satin finish, this ultra flat is a winner! I'm sealing a chevron style red oak farm door.
Oh good to know! I have yet to find a poly that didn't have shine so now I'll have to try that Ultra Flat!
Terrific overview and hits the high points very well.
I just got a Polyurethane product that is water-based (soap and water clean up). It's Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane 3X, in clear matte finish (the one I chose), for interior projects on stained or bare wood. I haven't tried it yet, but it says it's an "advanced self-leveling formula", and it's one coat is as thick as 3 coats of traditional poly, allowing projects to be completed in only 1 coat. It also has quick drying times: 2 hours to the touch, 48 hrs for moderate use of project, and 7 days for total cure time.
Hello poly acrylic you use great product s it gives you character about really polished substances
Great information. Complete, very informative and complete. Thank you!
The exact info I wanted!! You’re awesome.
Awesome!
thank you, i painted some wooden shelves white but they are hard to wipe clean when they get dusty. So i was looking for something clear i could use over the paint to make then easier to wipe down. This helped alot. 😁
Hey Melissa , there is an element you're missing which is addressed by Stumpy Nubs video " How to apply a nice satin/ matte wood finish " . In it he discusses how satin and matte polycrylic finishes have silica flattening agents that require specialized stirring so they don't settle to the bottom of the can . Also wax is used to create matte finishes on period pieces along with shellac and varnish.
Tip: Listen at 1.25x
Super informative and clear video though, love it!
lol YEAH!!
i actually started at 1.5 speed.... great!
Absolutely clear and helpful video. A must for a beginner as I am. Great!!!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for sharing this I’ll go with poly on my front door 🚪
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks great explanation of the 2 products
Very useful info
Thanks again
I'm liking the 2 part epoxy sprays.
Straight to the point and very informative 👏🏻 thanks
It's so nice to watch and listen to you
This was so helpful. It's so great to see other women doing DIY and sharing their tips. What do you think about a Varathane Diamond Finish? How does that compare to a polycrylic or polyurethane finish? Would like a video on this!
Great video. Great knowledge. Thank you for posting
Thank you. I've been looking for this information for a long time
Great video, very helpful I will save this video so I can use it to remember the difference between the two types. Thank for this info 👏
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Straight to the point and very informative.
I'm so glad you liked it! 🙂
Very good explanation & information. Thank you 😊
It's me again is adorable the polycrylic for a bathroom counter specially a kitchen counter thank you
Very helpful and information. Thanks 😊
I learned so much in this video. I like how u explain in a simple and to the point way.
Best informative video on the subject.
Great explanation !!!
❤
Very nice to have a video with out all the nonsense .. very informative 👍
Excellent video. Not sure what I should use for a flat finish on kitchen cabinets.
Excellent narration.
Thanks for the info and tips.
Awesome presentation.
Excellent, to-the-point video, and VERY helpful. I wish I had seen it before using polyurethane over a latex gray painted surface a couple of months ago. It now looks like I varnished over the gray. UG-LY!!! I'm going to re-do my project, and I'll use polycrylic for sure this time. THANK YOU!!!
Super helpful! Doing a baby salt dough foot imprint craft project and didn't want to use mod podge. Thank you
I am new to paining with chalk paint. I painted my dresser and used wax. I did two coats of wax but got water marks very easily. I sanded it and painted again. I bought both polyurethane and polycrylic, but I’m not sure which will be better. I love the color and don’t want to ruin it. I need it to have some level of water resistance since I decorate with plants. Thank you so much for your informative videos.
I'm new to wood working, but so far I love the Polyurethane, seems like I can do the project with 3 coats of urethane, where the water base take's double. I have been making Adirondack Chair's, and the oil base really makes the cedar pop out...
That sounds like the perfect application for outside chairs and I agree that polyurethane goes on with less coats than polycrylic. Thanks for your comment!!
From the UK: Thank you so much @Welcome To The Woods. After watching several other videos & trying to learn the best way to protect our revamped painted wooden kitchen table, your video gave me all the answers I needed in one go. Very much appreciated. Ordered the Minwax Polycrylic from Amazon, as it's not generally available here in stores. Subbed & rang the bell...you smashed this one for me 💥
Wow I happened upon your video in the nick of time! Getting ready to seal chalk painted table...only did two coats...look like I have some more work to do! Thank you for sharing😊k
what did you use?
Polyacrylic Satin Spray paint
Very good explanation...thanks!
Really good info. Thanks for the video
That's not true. Polyurethane comes in a water based version, so watch the labels.
Its true on mine is Oil Based
Yes polyurethane come IN Water base AND Oil base... Water base dries quicker and is better for retouch-ups on wood and oil base is good for natural original woods that's never been stained or polished
Also comes in an oil-modified (like minwax), so it drys ultra fast over oil or water base stains with easy water clean up and no smelly vapors. Those cheap white paint pads for edging/cutting in walls to ceilings work amazingly well for clear coats and stain! if washed out and kept wet, i can use the one same pad on well over 2000+ linear feet of 5' tongue and grove n.p. About the same with oil base stain, one dip in mineral spirits and blow out with air compressor keeps them very clean with minimal waste and skin contact.
I was just researching this because I remember buying water-based polyurethane so thank you
@@03zoey it's not true. Polycrylic is a trademarked name. But it's still Minwax's water based polyurethane line
GREAT EXPLANATION! You answered all my questions and concerns!!! thanks you so much. your wording and explanation was perfect!! Good Job!
Wow! Very informative!!
Been there, done that with poly yellowing over a beautiful project. Great job. Keep up the great work. Wow, if you aren't a spokeswoman for Minwax, you should be. Love your hair.
Very Very Good Information‼️
Awesome information !! Thank you !!
Thank you so much. Learned a lot from your video!!
I am painting rowing oars and need a marine poly but cannot have any yellowing. What do you suggest?
Thank u so much. U answered a lot of questions for me.
Great explanation!
This is so helpful. I’m about to start one two different projects and I think that I will do both products on both projects but different areas of the projects (depending on the paint color I use, and how much use they will be subjected to). Very direct very concise. I will check out more of your videos!
Awesome video with great info.
Amazing presentation. Very crisp and to the point. 🤗👍👍👍👍
Great wee video!
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
I just started using polyacrylic and Im using it in my diamond puzzles. It so beautiful it doesn't dim the shine of the diamonds, it makes them shinier. Most people use midge podge to seal diamond puzzles I used Midge podge to seal their puzzles I hate it .I'm loving Polyacrylic
Wow very thorough, thanks for this
Great video! Thanks! I just finished painting my kitchen table using white chalk paint, I waxed it and bought a poly product, matt finish, hope this is correct.
This answered my question perfectly. Great video!
AWESOME & EXTREMELY HELPFUL! THANK YOU😄
Thank you for this useful video! I just painted an old Ikea Kallax bookcase and made doors for it. Waiting for it to cure. Do you think it matters if I use a Minwax vs a Varathane polycrylic?
Jeez, knowledgeable and easy on the eyes!
Excellent video, to the point and covered the necessary details.