Tool links and things I talk about in this video: Shellac Flakes (Blonde): amzn.to/33981YA Bee’s Wax:https: //amzn.to/30K70EE Mineral Oil: amzn.to/2OpDGAA HVLP Set (only $89): amzn.to/33hGHHJ Total Boat Epoxy: bit.ly/2I3Q8m4 20% (That’s HUGE) Discount code KATZMOSES HVLP Video: th-cam.com/video/hb1TAQ-kxr8/w-d-xo.html Mike Pekovich’s shellac video: th-cam.com/video/k4_sIrEfdKM/w-d-xo.html
Jonathan Katz-Moses Good morning Jonathan, I really enjoy all your videos great work very informative. You had mentioned that you have a class on the cutting board Do you have a TH-cam video on the class or do I buy a video on it?
For those wondering the ratios of wax to mineral oil, I think JKM meant 4 parts of oil and 1 part of beeswax to get a sort of pomade. Not 4 parts of wax… otherwise, you’ll just get a chunk of wax that you cannot apply. You’re welcome.
I have done some woodworks in the past but this woodwork plan th-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG helps me do much in a far lesser time than i used to do i have already built several projects with this plan and i intend to do many more soon. Thank you so much!
i always just grabbed a can of gloss and slapped that on, never really gave it a thought that there was more to finishes. Im 54, its amazing the things you learn or realize later in life you never knew, specially on shellac, never even tried it before but i will now
Jonathan.... Gloss and Semi Gloss do have their places. To see subtle grain details that can really pop out and beautify the piece you need to increase light amplification. Like birds eye grain not normally seen. Increasing light amplification is done by increasing the gloss. Subtle details will pop unbelievably!
This was soooo helpful. I am terrible at deciding on a finish and I always want something that is safe for my kids and not going to burn my house down.
I refinished some rifle furniture with glossy water based poly but I also added wood dye to it because of the color I wanted. After the layering, buffing, sanding, and final coat of spray on oil based poly.. it doesnt look plasticy but sure does look deep.
If I close my eyes and listen to your video, it sounds like Patton Oswalt is telling me how to do woodworking. Outside of that, another great video. Thanks for the fantastic tips!
Good info all around. Per Flexner's book and personal experience, be careful with the lacquer in humid climates. I switched exclusively to quick-dry poly after moving to FL and having lacquer pull in a ton of moisture and turn my finishes white.
I make my Shellac with Everclear on my instruments. It seems to flash off a little bit faster which allows me to work through the process quicker. Also using dyes with it makes some great colors!
Just to add to the uses of shellac, it's a great stain blocker and it's used to prevent blotching when a penetrating stain is used on softwoods like pine.
Excellent video and very informative, thank you. I also love the simple sanding block with a spline in it to hold the paper....so simple and so useful!
Thanks so much for doing these videos! I'm a metalworker who's been wanting to get into woodworking for a while now, and having things like finishes and joining laid out simply is invaluable. It really makes creativity accessible. Thanks for everything you do here on TH-cam! You're the best!
Super video Jonathan. This one is practical and helpful. For the past 40 years or so my go to finish has been lacquer. I’ve started getting into shellac and have found it to be a great choice for some things. Your method of mixing a batch and storing the rags in the jar is super. I never thought of that and will start doing that when I mix my next batch. That part of the video was very helpful. Yesterday my wife suggested that I make cutting boards for Christmas gifts next year. Your finish looks perfect and the idea of giving a little jar of the finish along with the cutting boards is excellent. The main reason I’ve hesitated on making cutting boards for gifts in the past was that they need to be refinished occasionally. Your idea solves that problem. Thanks.
"We call it the Katz-Moses goo" "Stop it!" 🤣🤣🤣 dying! Absolutely LOVE your videos Jon and your dovetail jigs! I learned how to do quite a few things woodworking thanks to you.
Another fantastic video. I know it's a bit old by now but soaking up all of your content. I've been on the fence about making up my own shellac but I think this puts me over and I'm going to give it a shot.
@@Meyerwoodworks trust me... I've messed it up. For one even the lint free rags aren't always lint free. On top of that if I apply the finish on a hot day it tends to tack up real quick when overlapping strokes on a large surface. I'm just saying it is possible to mess up Arm-r-seal depending on a few situations.
This is a great reference video. Short enough to review as a refresher, but detailed enough to provide all you need to know. I also like sikkens (maybe they were bought out recently?) Low VOC and beautiful finish.
I used 2 oz beeswax and 6 oz fractionated coconut oil to make wood butter, and it's been working great on my cutting boards, wooden utensils and even a plant ladder I made for my fiancée! Plus it moisturizes your hands XD
Usually not too fond of gloss finishes, but I did a nitrocellulose lacquer gloss on a mahogany guitar body. Yeah, it took almost a week of coating and recoating, a couple weeks of curing and then hours of sanding and polishing, but the results were excellent. Not plastic looking at all.
I have a "BoosBlock" butcher block that I bought years ago that came with what they called Boosbutter that was exactly like your beeswax mixture and was absolutely amazing. That sort or coating really does go a long way on those wood blocks.
Preach it man. I only spray poly finishes also. It yields way better results than brushing it on. I'll give your "Goo" a shot man. I starting making cutting boards and quickly realized that wax is getting pricey to reapply.
G S nah man. It’s smooth as silk. Depending on the project I’ll use two coats sometimes three with light sanding in between each coat. That triple thick is terrible. I had poor results with that as well. I just use varathane water based poly or oil based depending on the application.
Dude I love it when I bought my house there was a old work bench in my garage I was going to clean it up and do this. However I like the husky base and your point in the solid wood of the husky bench. I bought some scrap hardwood from the box store and it was so much money. I'm nervous about how much the wood is going to cost haha
For some reason im in love with that "dripping with glass" high gloss polyurethane/lacquer look. Which worries me because 90% of all experienced woodworkers want it looking matte!
Im a novice woodworker and I just use a boiled linseed oil, I got it for an axe I was hanging and It looks very nice and helps keep the wood saturated especially in the head so it wont come loose, or so ive heard Im not really sure if any of this is true but this is what the kids on the block say
VERY informative vid, Jonathan! Thanks for sharing your "wisdom". I see more woodworkers reverting back to shellac as the the base coat of finish on projects. Great video! Thanks!
For cutting boards, and all the bowls I have made over the last 25 years, I have come to prefer a walnut oil finish, specifically from The Doctor's Woodshop. The biggest difference with the walnut oil, when compared to mineral oil is that the walnut oil will cure and harden. Mineral oil never hardens or builds up any type of permanent finish. This particular one also has 'micro aggregated' carnuba wax in it. Generally carnuba wax needs a solvent (turpentine in Kiwi neutral shoe polish) or heat to flow and spread evenly. This stuff doesn't. It does take a week or so to totally cure. With bees wax, you can usually see finger prints. Also, with your finish, and the Doctor's stuff, use a heat gun for the final coat or three.
Little trick for lacquer is to melt the product down with lacquer thinner. When spraying lacquer on piece with multiple parts or a big project the lacquer can dry so fast you can get flash on your finnish. Thus is where when spraying your product may land on parts of the finnish that has already hardened and leave a dull sandy feel/look. Load your spray gun with strait lacquer thinner rapidly respray the project. To much thinner can cause runs if to heavy like any spraying product. a bit advanced but can really help when its hot or lots of angles where the spray can land back on the project and cause flash. Where a respirator have fun.
I have never seen denatured alcohol in the UK, I have always used methylated spirits for shellac which works the same as far as I can tell, great video as always.
I think its the same thing.....denatured just means its ethanol with additives to stop people drinking it !! which is also why methylated spirits is purple and smelly.
@@philallen9650 You're right, it's the same stuff. The purple colour in the UK so people know you shouldn't drink it isn't a requirement in every country.
It’s an American thing because of the taxes on alcohol. Alcohol needs to be ‘denatured’ or made un-consumable or it would be subject to the government taxes on alcohol. Typically cut with a bit of MEK
Fun fact: shellac is used as a finish in candy making. When cut with a natural/pure alcohol it is considered food grade. Therefore a perfect finish for kids toys (for those of you non-breeders, kids have a rep for chewing on almost everything)
Thanks for sharing this, JKM, I use shellac on all my stuff now. Also bought one of your stop blocks and use it with the sled Tamar designed. Kudos for all the work you put into your videos! Someday I'll work up the patience to try my hand at dovetails...
Thank you so much for an awesome video. As with all your videos your explanations are very informative and easy to follow, but you really out did yourself with this one. Finishes have always been a mystery for me and my projects tend not to look the way I want. I will definitely try a couple of these finishes and your techniques. I just ordered your shop apron to throw some support your way. I eagerly await its arrival.
Good stuff. I really like your content. I usually watch them a few times to glean everything from them. I was working with a beeswax finish when I first saw this video, then I rewatched when considering finishes for a different project. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the video. I think I need to try shellac. For me favorite is Waterlox. Love that stuff because how exotic woods look with it. Really brings out color and depth and is durable enough for me. I don’t use it anymore because importing from the US to Europe is so high. Now I use a danish oil but it doesn’t seem as good though they are very similar.
What you were told about shellac is correct -- more specifically, it's a secretion from the female lac bug. They're related to the same bugs that made Tyrian purple and Madder red dyes several millennia ago when wearing blue clothes meant you were richer than Bill Gates. This little fact didn't "bug" me as much as finding out that the red color of Campari came from a beetle, considering I actually rather like Negronis and Boulevardiers. Also, a fun fact -- the name "lac" for the bug derives from the Sanskrit "laksha" (or modern Hindi "lakh"), which means 100,000 because that was a rough olden estimate for how many bugs it took to produce 1 kg of shellac (it actually varies wildly from 50,000 to 350,000). I'm trying to think of the old story of the palace made entirely of shellac (Lakshagriha), and how many bugs were needed for that.
@@katzmosestools sorry, I might not have been clear enough. My idea would be to apply a glossy finish all over the workpiece. Then mask it to create a pattern where you apply only matte finish.
Semi-gloss all in one stain and polyurethane applied in thin coats has a far less plastic look to it because of the tint and works really well for interior trim and hand rails. Personally, I like to use a heavy tongue oil or boiled linseed oil for finishing, but I also tend to have the patience to let those soak in and dry. For cutting boards you can also use vegetable oil to get a quick finish that is similar to mineral oil. If you want a longer lasting finish on a cutting board, olive oil heavily applied, allowed to soak in for 12 to 16 hour and then wiped off makes a very durable finish for cutting boards and butcher blocks that has to be reapplied 2 to 6 times a year only when the surface is used and washed daily. Another thing to look into for reducing smells is to use gum turpentine since it smells like pine needles instead of using normal turpentine or mineral spirits, which both have unpleasant smells, when thinning out finishes. It is not as strong of a solvent, but you can just use thinner and multiple coats instead and you won't walk out of the shop smelling like a chemical factory. It can also be used for cleaning up finishing oils and oil based stains/paints from brushes and sprayers, much like alcohol.
Vegetable oils like olive oil can go rancid so it's NOT a good idea for cutting boards. Tung oil and other nut based oils can potentially give allergic reactions so be carefull. Especially if you sell them!
@@hakancarlsson2881 That is why you regularly clean them with warm soapy water. Most bakeries use olive oil or canola to make their working tables non-stick to the dough and preserve the wood. Butchers also tend to use the same method if they have a wooden block they use. With a cutting board, just washing it with dish soap and warm water after each use is enough to pull the oil out before it oxidizes. The only non-vegetable oil that is safe on cutting boards that isn't a nut oil is mineral oil. It is the best oil for bamboo cutting boards, but maple and walnut cutting boards do better with a vegetable oil.
@Jonathan Katz-Moses Thanks for all the great video content. I love your channel and I am anxiously waiting for my no deflection stop block and apron to arrive. During this video you say that the ratio is 4 parts beeswax, but in another video you say 4 parts mineral oil to one part beeswax. I made it as in this video and it is a solid mass. I guess I can just re heat it and mix in a bunch more mineral oil.
Awesome video and super helpful! Question for you. Do you stain your projects? If so, any tips or tricks for staining? Struggling a bit with staining. Thanks!
Of the finishes you just covered, which one do you think would be the most durable for use on a wall hanging tool cabinet. I plan on only placing my top end tools in the cabinet and I want a finish that will compliment the nice tools.
@Jonathan Katz-Moses thanks for this video, it's great. I've been loving shellac and the goo! Question - any tips for applying finish to assembled projects? For example the inside of a box - what's the best way to hold the piece, reach the corners, etc. Thanks, I love your videos!
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Tool links and things I talk about in this video:
Shellac Flakes (Blonde): amzn.to/33981YA
Bee’s Wax:https: //amzn.to/30K70EE
Mineral Oil: amzn.to/2OpDGAA
HVLP Set (only $89): amzn.to/33hGHHJ
Total Boat Epoxy: bit.ly/2I3Q8m4 20% (That’s HUGE) Discount code KATZMOSES
HVLP Video: th-cam.com/video/hb1TAQ-kxr8/w-d-xo.html
Mike Pekovich’s shellac video: th-cam.com/video/k4_sIrEfdKM/w-d-xo.html
Why would you put shellac under another finish? Or on top, for that matter?
Also, what grit do you sand to before each finish?
Jonathan Katz-Moses Good morning Jonathan, I really enjoy all your videos great work very informative. You had mentioned that you have a class on the cutting board
Do you have a TH-cam video on the class or do I buy a video on it?
It will be out soon
For sealing quickly and top coating with a stronger finish. When you need to refinish something and you don't know what finish is on the piece already
@@katzmosestools thanks
For those wondering the ratios of wax to mineral oil, I think JKM meant 4 parts of oil and 1 part of beeswax to get a sort of pomade. Not 4 parts of wax… otherwise, you’ll just get a chunk of wax that you cannot apply. You’re welcome.
Yep, the ratios got inverted. I was getting confused 'cause in his dedicated video Katz Says 4 pts Oil to 1 pt Bees Wax
Great video. Beeswax and mineral oil also make a great, kid safe finish for wooden toys.
I have done some woodworks in the past but this woodwork plan th-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG helps me do much in a far lesser time than i used to do i have already built several projects with this plan and i intend to do many more soon. Thank you so much!
This looks like a scam, why is it a top comment
Had to watch this twice, because the first time I was too busy staring at that gorgeous cutting board to absorb any information lol! Great video, man!
It's photoshopped ;)
I would love to see how one is made.
Too bad you can see it splitting...
@@ethanwong9950 I didn't notice any cracks?
The only thing splitting is my brain trying to make sense of how it's done lol
As a long time woodworker I was shocked by how much I agree with everything you said in this video. That never happens. Thanks.
Best video about finishes I found. No one else really went over the poly v lacquer debate.
i always just grabbed a can of gloss and slapped that on, never really gave it a thought that there was more to finishes. Im 54, its amazing the things you learn or realize later in life you never knew, specially on shellac, never even tried it before but i will now
I've never thought that a woodworking video can look so similar to a master chef show.
I have watched this video multiple times over time to see how to make and apply the finishes. Love the make your own finishes. They work amazing.
This is the best summary and explanation I have seen so far.
Thank you for the video. I don’t know anything about finishing other than painting. I will save this video to reference later.
Jonathan.... Gloss and Semi Gloss do have their places. To see subtle grain details that can really pop out and beautify the piece you need to increase light amplification. Like birds eye grain not normally seen. Increasing light amplification is done by increasing the gloss. Subtle details will pop unbelievably!
that cutting board is BEAUTIFUL
This was soooo helpful. I am terrible at deciding on a finish and I always want something that is safe for my kids and not going to burn my house down.
I refinished some rifle furniture with glossy water based poly but I also added wood dye to it because of the color I wanted. After the layering, buffing, sanding, and final coat of spray on oil based poly.. it doesnt look plasticy but sure does look deep.
Finishing is one area I need to up my game! So this should help a lot, thanks
If I close my eyes and listen to your video, it sounds like Patton Oswalt is telling me how to do woodworking.
Outside of that, another great video. Thanks for the fantastic tips!
Thank you, I love that definition of shellac. I’m generally confused about the difference from varnish to lacquer to shellac, etc.
Good info all around. Per Flexner's book and personal experience, be careful with the lacquer in humid climates. I switched exclusively to quick-dry poly after moving to FL and having lacquer pull in a ton of moisture and turn my finishes white.
I make my Shellac with Everclear on my instruments. It seems to flash off a little bit faster which allows me to work through the process quicker. Also using dyes with it makes some great colors!
Just to add to the uses of shellac, it's a great stain blocker and it's used to prevent blotching when a penetrating stain is used on softwoods like pine.
So shellac first and then stain?
@@seanhenry744 yes. Just make sure to not to put it thick. Just one thin application and that's it. So much cheaper than minwax pre-stain conditioner.
Excellent video and very informative, thank you. I also love the simple sanding block with a spline in it to hold the paper....so simple and so useful!
My Grand-grand-father (who was a "wood-worker" / carpenter here in France) used Shellac in 1900-ish :)
Thanks so much for doing these videos! I'm a metalworker who's been wanting to get into woodworking for a while now, and having things like finishes and joining laid out simply is invaluable. It really makes creativity accessible. Thanks for everything you do here on TH-cam! You're the best!
Super video Jonathan. This one is practical and helpful. For the past 40 years or so my go to finish has been lacquer. I’ve started getting into shellac and have found it to be a great choice for some things. Your method of mixing a batch and storing the rags in the jar is super. I never thought of that and will start doing that when I mix my next batch. That part of the video was very helpful. Yesterday my wife suggested that I make cutting boards for Christmas gifts next year. Your finish looks perfect and the idea of giving a little jar of the finish along with the cutting boards is excellent. The main reason I’ve hesitated on making cutting boards for gifts in the past was that they need to be refinished occasionally. Your idea solves that problem. Thanks.
"We call it the Katz-Moses goo" "Stop it!" 🤣🤣🤣 dying! Absolutely LOVE your videos Jon and your dovetail jigs! I learned how to do quite a few things woodworking thanks to you.
You need to try the Knapp Joint for your next joint of the week. “Pask Makes” put out a video on them and they look pretty awesome.
Another fantastic video. I know it's a bit old by now but soaking up all of your content. I've been on the fence about making up my own shellac but I think this puts me over and I'm going to give it a shot.
I prefer Shellac too. Quick and easy to use.
Really surprised to not see hardwax oil in this list. So easy to use, and the finish is beautiful!
thanks for this helpful video, got my answer about a decorative piece finish
Arm-R-Seal Satin, has to be one of the best finishes. Looks fantastic, it's impossible to mess up, and you put it on with just a shop towel!
I've messed up the finish using Arm-r-seal
@@juanjacobo36 How!? You just wipe it on and wipe off the excess.
@@Meyerwoodworks trust me... I've messed it up. For one even the lint free rags aren't always lint free. On top of that if I apply the finish on a hot day it tends to tack up real quick when overlapping strokes on a large surface. I'm just saying it is possible to mess up Arm-r-seal depending on a few situations.
This is a great reference video. Short enough to review as a refresher, but detailed enough to provide all you need to know. I also like sikkens (maybe they were bought out recently?) Low VOC and beautiful finish.
I used 2 oz beeswax and 6 oz fractionated coconut oil to make wood butter, and it's been working great on my cutting boards, wooden utensils and even a plant ladder I made for my fiancée! Plus it moisturizes your hands XD
Awesome!
@@katzmosestools oh, and I'm going to try out shellac based on your recommendation. Thanks!
Great vid, and some seriously nice production value. Props for the effort put into that.
Replace the mineral oil with coconut oil in your beeswax blend for a wonderful non petroleum finish.
Usually not too fond of gloss finishes, but I did a nitrocellulose lacquer gloss on a mahogany guitar body. Yeah, it took almost a week of coating and recoating, a couple weeks of curing and then hours of sanding and polishing, but the results were excellent. Not plastic looking at all.
I have a "BoosBlock" butcher block that I bought years ago that came with what they called Boosbutter that was exactly like your beeswax mixture and was absolutely amazing. That sort or coating really does go a long way on those wood blocks.
Exactly the information I was looking for. Very helpful.
Preach it man. I only spray poly finishes also. It yields way better results than brushing it on. I'll give your "Goo" a shot man. I starting making cutting boards and quickly realized that wax is getting pricey to reapply.
G S nah man. It’s smooth as silk. Depending on the project I’ll use two coats sometimes three with light sanding in between each coat. That triple thick is terrible. I had poor results with that as well. I just use varathane water based poly or oil based depending on the application.
Dude I love it when I bought my house there was a old work bench in my garage I was going to clean it up and do this. However I like the husky base and your point in the solid wood of the husky bench. I bought some scrap hardwood from the box store and it was so much money. I'm nervous about how much the wood is going to cost haha
Quick is not always best but I understand the draw backs and benifits of the waiting time.
Beautiful TH-cam channel.
I've subscribed straight away, thanks for all the links in the description.
For some reason im in love with that "dripping with glass" high gloss polyurethane/lacquer look.
Which worries me because 90% of all experienced woodworkers want it looking matte!
thanks for the tips JKM , beautiful looking cutting board and with the finish on it, it just POPS...
Im a novice woodworker and I just use a boiled linseed oil, I got it for an axe I was hanging and It looks very nice and helps keep the wood saturated especially in the head so it wont come loose, or so ive heard Im not really sure if any of this is true but this is what the kids on the block say
VERY informative vid, Jonathan! Thanks for sharing your "wisdom". I see more woodworkers reverting back to shellac as the the base coat of finish on projects. Great video! Thanks!
Once again thanks for the clear and educational video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent Video
This was very useful! I have been using only lacquer and epoxy, with rare poly finish. I am going to try shellac.
Fabulous video. Love how you sum up a lot of good options, uses, creating mixtures and how to apply all in one viewing 😊
For cutting boards, and all the bowls I have made over the last 25 years, I have come to prefer a walnut oil finish, specifically from The Doctor's Woodshop. The biggest difference with the walnut oil, when compared to mineral oil is that the walnut oil will cure and harden. Mineral oil never hardens or builds up any type of permanent finish. This particular one also has 'micro aggregated' carnuba wax in it. Generally carnuba wax needs a solvent (turpentine in Kiwi neutral shoe polish) or heat to flow and spread evenly. This stuff doesn't. It does take a week or so to totally cure. With bees wax, you can usually see finger prints. Also, with your finish, and the Doctor's stuff, use a heat gun for the final coat or three.
Little trick for lacquer is to melt the product down with lacquer thinner.
When spraying lacquer on piece with multiple parts or a big project the lacquer can dry so fast you can get flash on your finnish.
Thus is where when spraying your product may land on parts of
the finnish that has already hardened and leave a dull sandy feel/look.
Load your spray gun with strait lacquer thinner rapidly respray the project. To much thinner can cause runs if to heavy like any spraying product.
a bit advanced but can really help when its hot or lots of angles where the spray can land back on the project and cause flash.
Where a respirator have fun.
I have never seen denatured alcohol in the UK, I have always used methylated spirits for shellac which works the same as far as I can tell, great video as always.
I think its the same thing.....denatured just means its ethanol with additives to stop people drinking it !! which is also why methylated spirits is purple and smelly.
@@philallen9650 You're right, it's the same stuff. The purple colour in the UK so people know you shouldn't drink it isn't a requirement in every country.
It’s an American thing because of the taxes on alcohol. Alcohol needs to be ‘denatured’ or made un-consumable or it would be subject to the government taxes on alcohol. Typically cut with a bit of MEK
You are crazy Sharp!! Always like your videos!
Fun fact: shellac is used as a finish in candy making. When cut with a natural/pure alcohol it is considered food grade. Therefore a perfect finish for kids toys (for those of you non-breeders, kids have a rep for chewing on almost everything)
Cool fact!
And if you tell them it's soaked in spit from bugs they don't want it in their mouths anymore! 👍
Håkan Carlsson: its a bug excretion - more like bug sweat (not sure which is grosser to imagine) 🤮
@@BiggMo Yeah Yummy!
Thanks for sharing this, JKM, I use shellac on all my stuff now. Also bought one of your stop blocks and use it with the sled Tamar designed. Kudos for all the work you put into your videos! Someday I'll work up the patience to try my hand at dovetails...
My favorite finish is the rear naked choke
This video is amazing. Thank you for the best info
i’ve heard the oil & wax finish referred to as “wood butter”
Note the way he is making his it is 4/1 volume
Thank you so much for an awesome video. As with all your videos your explanations are very informative and easy to follow, but you really out did yourself with this one. Finishes have always been a mystery for me and my projects tend not to look the way I want. I will definitely try a couple of these finishes and your techniques. I just ordered your shop apron to throw some support your way. I eagerly await its arrival.
Thanks!
Good stuff. I really like your content. I usually watch them a few times to glean everything from them. I was working with a beeswax finish when I first saw this video, then I rewatched when considering finishes for a different project. Keep up the good work.
Thank you my friend!
Thanks for the video. I think I need to try shellac.
For me favorite is Waterlox. Love that stuff because how exotic woods look with it. Really brings out color and depth and is durable enough for me. I don’t use it anymore because importing from the US to Europe is so high. Now I use a danish oil but it doesn’t seem as good though they are very similar.
Gorgeous! How about
linseed oil? I personally love how enhances the wood grains
I think every finish does about the sme thing. Linseed oil is great but offers no scratch protection
Great helpful video. Thank you!
I brush on that varithain water based poly and it smooths out as it dries like no other poly I have ever used.
Heat gun over epoxy is a great tip!
What you were told about shellac is correct -- more specifically, it's a secretion from the female lac bug. They're related to the same bugs that made Tyrian purple and Madder red dyes several millennia ago when wearing blue clothes meant you were richer than Bill Gates. This little fact didn't "bug" me as much as finding out that the red color of Campari came from a beetle, considering I actually rather like Negronis and Boulevardiers.
Also, a fun fact -- the name "lac" for the bug derives from the Sanskrit "laksha" (or modern Hindi "lakh"), which means 100,000 because that was a rough olden estimate for how many bugs it took to produce 1 kg of shellac (it actually varies wildly from 50,000 to 350,000). I'm trying to think of the old story of the palace made entirely of shellac (Lakshagriha), and how many bugs were needed for that.
yes, shellac is the excretion of insects who live on sap. the color is caused by the type of tree they feed on. it's also used on food
Videos are super helpful and useful!
Would love to see you make a Knapp Joint👍👍
That Deft spray lacquer is easy to use; HOWEVER, it is toxic and flammable. Plus one can really doesn’t cover much area.
Really excellent video! Many Thanks! What type of finish would you use for a new woodworking workbench?
Try one of the small foam roller with the epoxy it works a treat
Jonathan, you are so great on camera
Great info. Thank you! Time to try some shellac!
I am new here. Damn, i had no idea jimmy kimmell was a badass carpenter! Really got yourself a new sub.
Welcome my friend
Have you ever thought of, or tried, to mix glossy and matte finish to draw pattern? You can see that sometime on car and it look so cool.
I haven't. Sounds like you're just going to end up with a semi gloss you couldn't replicate when you run out
@@katzmosestools sorry, I might not have been clear enough. My idea would be to apply a glossy finish all over the workpiece. Then mask it to create a pattern where you apply only matte finish.
Great tips. Thanks!
Great video as always Jonathan!
Hottest first five seconds of a woodworking video ever.
That's how we roll hahaha
Hot damn! The hotness just keeps on comin! 4:26
Very helpful thank you
Do you have a link to the cutting board video? My wife loved it.
Itll be out soon
Welcome my friend
thank you Katz
Thank u so much
Great video. Very informative. Thanks for all of the information. Well done, friend.
Semi-gloss all in one stain and polyurethane applied in thin coats has a far less plastic look to it because of the tint and works really well for interior trim and hand rails.
Personally, I like to use a heavy tongue oil or boiled linseed oil for finishing, but I also tend to have the patience to let those soak in and dry. For cutting boards you can also use vegetable oil to get a quick finish that is similar to mineral oil. If you want a longer lasting finish on a cutting board, olive oil heavily applied, allowed to soak in for 12 to 16 hour and then wiped off makes a very durable finish for cutting boards and butcher blocks that has to be reapplied 2 to 6 times a year only when the surface is used and washed daily.
Another thing to look into for reducing smells is to use gum turpentine since it smells like pine needles instead of using normal turpentine or mineral spirits, which both have unpleasant smells, when thinning out finishes. It is not as strong of a solvent, but you can just use thinner and multiple coats instead and you won't walk out of the shop smelling like a chemical factory. It can also be used for cleaning up finishing oils and oil based stains/paints from brushes and sprayers, much like alcohol.
Vegetable oils like olive oil can go rancid so it's NOT a good idea for cutting boards.
Tung oil and other nut based oils can potentially give allergic reactions so be carefull. Especially if you sell them!
@@hakancarlsson2881 That is why you regularly clean them with warm soapy water. Most bakeries use olive oil or canola to make their working tables non-stick to the dough and preserve the wood. Butchers also tend to use the same method if they have a wooden block they use. With a cutting board, just washing it with dish soap and warm water after each use is enough to pull the oil out before it oxidizes.
The only non-vegetable oil that is safe on cutting boards that isn't a nut oil is mineral oil. It is the best oil for bamboo cutting boards, but maple and walnut cutting boards do better with a vegetable oil.
@Jonathan Katz-Moses Thanks for all the great video content. I love your channel and I am anxiously waiting for my no deflection stop block and apron to arrive. During this video you say that the ratio is 4 parts beeswax, but in another video you say 4 parts mineral oil to one part beeswax. I made it as in this video and it is a solid mass. I guess I can just re heat it and mix in a bunch more mineral oil.
Can you do a video on how to make the beeswax and mineral oil mix
Great video. Ive got one coming out tomorrow about my super secret paste wax finish 👍
It's the lac bug!
Thank you for the awesome video! How often would you recommend reapplying the cutting board wax? How long does it last. Thanks.
Awesome video and super helpful! Question for you. Do you stain your projects? If so, any tips or tricks for staining? Struggling a bit with staining. Thanks!
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
That HVLP Set climbed up in price.
1:37 He said doo doo 😂. Great video, very informative.
Of the finishes you just covered, which one do you think would be the most durable for use on a wall hanging tool cabinet. I plan on only placing my top end tools in the cabinet and I want a finish that will compliment the nice tools.
I would go with lacquer for sure
@Jonathan Katz-Moses thanks for this video, it's great. I've been loving shellac and the goo! Question - any tips for applying finish to assembled projects? For example the inside of a box - what's the best way to hold the piece, reach the corners, etc. Thanks, I love your videos!