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Hi You can upgrade the laser to work better.. Just add an Z axis to the laser mount.. You can add also a microswitch under the laser. So every time it resets can attach to the cutting material and then reposition to the pre-cut height. After the end of each loop the laser will be lower at the height of your choice and so the cutting edge of the laser beam will be in the right focus
Thanks for this very detailed video and subscribed. This electrical power 15W one, could engrave stainless steel, but it need to use the marker pen to paint black the serfuce of the stainless steel, to adovid reflection. Also, it would be better to adjust the focusing to be as close as possible to the lens.
You cant cut wood or plywood with this laser without the compressor, use one from cheap chineese soldering station and a needlе for ball pumping at least it will go 1000 times faster , i cut 3 mm plywood with chineese 1 w laserpointer and sodlering station compressor 6 loops on 150mm/min
I know I'm late, but I've got a tip for cutting through wood an the plastic: Lowering the speed is not always good. It leads to charing and melting, which makes the material harder to cut. If you move faster with more passes instead, you don't get these effects as much, and can achieve harder cuts.
Until now I’ve been searching for weeks looking for informative videos on laser engraving and found mostly junk content. Your video is one of the best and most descriptive ones I’ve seen about anything in years. Your ability to deep dive and answer questions I didn’t know I had is a skill not often found. You just got another subscriber. Thank you for your help.
OMG thanks so much for this review. I was about to buy this machine for clear acrylic. Good to know it doesnt work with it. Youre the first one I saw with honest review
A bit of compressed air might help with wood cutting. There's a lot of smoke coming right off the hot spot, which is absorbing/blocking/defocusing the light.
It also (with diode lasers) makes a big difference what's underneath the wood your trying to cut. The only reliable way I have of cutting some 3mm "laserply" on my so-called 5W laser is to sit it on top of some paxolin PCB I had laying around. This half melts when the laser hits it and reflects the heat back up into the cut enough that I get smooth clean cuts 99% of the time. The only issue I have now is I'm not sure what that would be giving off as fumes (I work well ventilated) and also I'm running out and don't know where to buy any more or what else would work as good as it for a base plate.
To echo @Jo Flo More passes at a faster speed is usually better than less passes at slower speed. A few more tips: Fixed focal lengths are a bit less stressful, but also less flexible. I use a 7w with a variable focus, mounted to a 3018 with Z axis. I'll set my Z home as far as possible from the material surface while still able to focus the beam properly. The reason is because the longer the beam before the convergence point, the narrower it will be immediately above the focus. With that, you can cut deeper into material--the previously cut material above doesn't interfere with as much of the beam, as it would with a wider beam due to focal point closer to the module. I use the 3018, but there's nothing specific about that spec that is better or worse than another. The important part is the Z axis. I can generate my gcode to lower the Z by a few micrometers with each pass, keeping the focal point at the material. The rate of Z adjustment is different for each type of material. Some materials, like wood, produce ash when burned in the cut. After several passes, the ash will completely block the beam from being able to penetrate deeper. The ash also glows, therefore radiating the thermal energy to the sides and causing unwanted results. I use 2 strategies: a relatively high CFM fan to blow ash and smoke (which cools into soot/ash) away; and I configure break points in my gcode so that I can take a moment to brush the cut path before resuming. Hope these help!
If you had a platform (z) and an air nozzle attached setup to clear the debris, you might be able to cut thicker materials compensating for both the focal length and the debris that clogs up deeper cuts.
The issue when cutting through 4mm balsa is from the nature or your "cutting element" the laser is manuly focalised on the top or the material. When it has cut two mm, the laser isn't focalised in trench and the material needs more and more energy to cut because instead of focusing thé energy in a tiny spot to burn a little piece of material, it is burning a greater surface. It would has been useful to have a Z-axis to lift down the laser after each loop and keep the energy/surface ratio constant Edit : I had not seen the explanation before posting m'y comment Maybe, try to focus the laser in the middle of the material instead of the surface
This is correct. To add to this, instead of focusing the laser in the middle before you start, do 1 or 2 passes with it focused on the surface then refocus the laser to the "new" surface a couple of mm down, keep repeating the process until you've cut all the way through the material. The more you do it between passes, the better the cut will be as long as the material or the machine head doesn't move.
To cut thicker materials you need z-axis or automated adjustable focus to move the laser focus down through the materials. You are correct in that 435nm does nothing on clear or white. And in fact most metals act like mirrors for infrared (heat). This is why laser cutting metals is so difficult. Great video and comprehensive!
13:40 Thank you for helping - everyone who sells this equipment guarantees that it makes markings on the metal - and you could confirm that they don't ... thank you for saving me some money. Hug from Brazil !
thanks for the video! I've seen a lot of these types of machines advertised on my Facebook feed. I've got a 130W CO2 laser and i typically cut 3mm acrylic and 30mm/s and 3mm MDF at 45mm/s. typically engraving speeds of 400mm/s. I'd have to agree with the glasses although because you are dealing with visible light, if you can see any blue light at all then id say that they are no good but better than nothing. one thing that bothers me with these cheap machines is that there is no air assist. if you had a nozzle that added pressured air to the cut location then the cutting speed would be greatly increased. it's just something all these machines don't have as an option. that and fume extraction :P a good little machine for experimentation and prototyping. I've ordered a "40W" laser which i will just mount to my CO2 laser head ( my controller has dual laser head control as an option) so I'll run some experiments soon :)
Could you try cutting mylar sheet? The thin stuff used for stencils. It usually comes in white or clear, so I've been reluctant to buy this unit or others like it because that's the main use I want it for.
Definitely need to have a Z-axis, even on a laser so as you go down the material, you can step the Z down. Plus, you can focus as 50mm from the object and raise the Z for thicker material.
Hi and thanks for the video, im waiting for my kkmoon 20w laser to arrive which I ordered from AliExpress but was wondering if the glasses they provide with it are sufficient enough ? Anyone knows? Could someone recommend good glasses for 20w laser with 445nm I think from like eBay or amazon so I won’t pay more for the glasses that the laser but give me enough eye protection? Thank you very much
Hello is it possible to make a solder Stencil with the laser cutter? will it possible to engrave to a vinyl or something thin sheet material like, for a footprint of a smd device example atmega16u2 qfn footprints?
I've been doing test cuts on different materials. Chipboard, Modeling Plywood, Basswood (from Linden trees). In different thickness. The plywood is the toughest. I think it has something to do with the glue between the layers. Basswood. Blows through Basswood like a its air. Chip board cuts really clean but the engraving is very fragile. I really need to build a fence system and clamps so I can take parts off the machine and register them for secondary operations. I'm more interested in structure building in HO scale. The engraver will be used to engrave brick patterns for walls with the brick patterns interlocking like finger joints. Just draw up all CAD drawing with the same start point.
if you put the laser on a 3d printer head you could adjust the z axis as you do repetitions to keep the laser in focus. in theory. divide the thickness of the material by the number of reps for each pass.
For the clear Acrylic, would it be possible to engrave or cut it if the top surface was first covered with washable marker, easy remove tap or even paint?
Buenos días! Acabo de adquirir un Ortur Laser Master 2 de 20W, estaba realizando algunas pruebas para llegarle al punto que me gustara, con la escala de grises no lo lograba entonces actualicé el firmware pero tengo problemas ahora se ha descontrolado los movimientos X y Y. Cualquier movimiento me indica "límite de movimiento excedido" Que puedo hacer?? Hay alguna forma de restaurarlo a fabrica. Ayuda por favor
Is there any laser cut specific to cut paper and light fabric? Cause I make clothes for action figures and I need one. I was wondering if this is fine for this purpose
Hey buddy I know I'm late to the party but I'm new to woodworking and wanted an engraver..im planning on engraving on cutting boards and stove covers, you think this will be good enough for something as big as those?
Maybe you can help. I just got a Lasermaster 2 20 W. It worked great and was just getting productive, then ran into a snag. When I turn the machine on and try to link it to Lightburn, the program can't connect. The lights are on in the laser and it homes itself but will not connect. I'm still waiting to hear from Gearbest. Any ideas?? Steve
Well if you can get really close, and if you can immobilise your victims for a sufficient amount of time, I'm sure you'd be able to kill someone with this. ;-)
Totem S 40W / NEJE Master 2S Max / Atomstack A5 Pro / Ortur Laser Master 2 pro I found the four. would like to know which one of the favorites is and which one is best for small knives, normal kitchen knives, silver key rings, zippo, silver engraved bracelet for children. thank you in advance for the help and information I will get. nice day
Hi, good morning. Could you tell me what brand of glasses you use. The ones I have after using the machine feel as if it had dirt inside my eyes. Could you help me choose the right glasses with a power of 5w blue? Thank you
make a right angle tube that focuses a jet of air with the laser it will help a LOT.. i use a big 60w aquarium air pump with a 3/8" silicone air line... and a 3d printed cone with a 2mm opening it press fits over the focus ring and the air help clears the cut like this a 10w can cut 12mm balsa in 15 passes at 5mm/s
Yes, the stated output (15/10/7/5.5W) all turn out to be far different and lower figures (5, 3.5, 2.5, 1.6W) once they finally give you an honest "luminous output" figure. Those cheats! All your tests were wonderful to see. You've convinced me that these blue/violet lasers just won't do. I'll spend the same amount of money ~$335USD and get a K40 (Chi) CO2 laser instead. And maybe pick up a small 2W laser unit (
If this was fixed to a CNC router head that has Z up & down movement, I wonder if you could do separate passes with the Z moving down to refocus the beam with each pass?
Thanks for the acrylic test, was considering a 20W diode laser, but I need to be able to cut white and transparent acrylic. Seems like you need to step up to a CO2 laser for it
I have a EleksLaser- A3 Pro 2500mW Laser with a Z Axis mod. The Z Axis mod will lower the laser every loop causing the focus to stay on the material needed to be cut. This mod works great!
Ortur Laser Master has more safety protection function, also the power ( Electrical Power: 15W, Luminous Power: 4000-4500 mw) of this one is higher, maybe you coud consider to try this one.
Hola, tengo una pregunta, tengo una neje máster 20W , pero no consigo hacer que me coja algunos archivos, la propia aplicación neje es bastante corta, que otro programa puedo usar? He probado varios pero no conectan
Good afternoon ... I hope you can help me ... I am looking to buy a laser for cutting cardboard, maximum 5mm ... This video you show is of a 15w laser ... I have seen one of 20w. .. The question is, if you can help me, what are the technical details that I should consider to buy one ... besides being 15w, 20w or more ... On eBay there are a number of offers but, I can't technically establish what is the best option. Thank you very much if you can help me ... Best Regards
Hello my friend .. Can we replace the lazer hed with another more powerful one (40_50 _60 _ets..watts).with the same set and the same program. and what changes be made . thanks ..
With a cone shaped focus point, rather than setting the focus point on the top surface, try setting it roughly halfway through the balsa, it won't be as clean of a cut, but it should make it to both sides.
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Hi
You can upgrade the laser to work better..
Just add an Z axis to the laser mount..
You can add also a microswitch under the laser.
So every time it resets can attach to the cutting material and then reposition to the pre-cut height.
After the end of each loop the laser will be lower at the height of your choice and so the cutting edge of the laser beam will be in the right focus
Thanks for this very detailed video and subscribed.
This electrical power 15W one, could engrave stainless steel, but it need to use the marker pen to paint black the serfuce of the stainless steel, to adovid reflection.
Also, it would be better to adjust the focusing to be as close as possible to the lens.
Thanks for the review. I couldn't find the link for better safety glasses.
You cant cut wood or plywood with this laser without the compressor, use one from cheap chineese soldering station and a needlе for ball pumping at least it will go 1000 times faster , i cut 3 mm plywood with chineese 1 w laserpointer and sodlering station compressor 6 loops on 150mm/min
Hey. Great video. Could you please share link for good quality recommended protective glasses? :)
I know I'm late, but I've got a tip for cutting through wood an the plastic: Lowering the speed is not always good. It leads to charing and melting, which makes the material harder to cut. If you move faster with more passes instead, you don't get these effects as much, and can achieve harder cuts.
Correct
10:34 for cutting thick materials with a laser you need z-axis control. Lower the laser for each pass to stay in focus.
Until now I’ve been searching for weeks looking for informative videos on laser engraving and found mostly junk content. Your video is one of the best and most descriptive ones I’ve seen about anything in years. Your ability to deep dive and answer questions I didn’t know I had is a skill not often found. You just got another subscriber. Thank you for your help.
except he doesn't know what he's talking about.
You have built a great channel, keep it up! You deserve more subs. Greetings from Canada
Nice video, but at the copper engraving, you need to paint it black the pcb and engrave the negative of pcb, then you throw in acid for corrosion
OMG thanks so much for this review. I was about to buy this machine for clear acrylic. Good to know it doesnt work with it.
Youre the first one I saw with honest review
A bit of compressed air might help with wood cutting. There's a lot of smoke coming right off the hot spot, which is absorbing/blocking/defocusing the light.
That right. Even on a 40W CO2-Laser compressed air makes a difference of several mm in Wood or PMMA.
Which is why proper laser cutters have an active air exhaust. And, you do not want to breathe those fumes.
It also (with diode lasers) makes a big difference what's underneath the wood your trying to cut. The only reliable way I have of cutting some 3mm "laserply" on my so-called 5W laser is to sit it on top of some paxolin PCB I had laying around. This half melts when the laser hits it and reflects the heat back up into the cut enough that I get smooth clean cuts 99% of the time. The only issue I have now is I'm not sure what that would be giving off as fumes (I work well ventilated) and also I'm running out and don't know where to buy any more or what else would work as good as it for a base plate.
even a fan would help
Price
This is truly one of the best youtube channels ever . This guy even inspired me to make my own tech channel . Hope you reach 1M subs ❤❤❤
Great review.. To bring your cutting speed and passes use air assist to blow away the smoke
To echo @Jo Flo More passes at a faster speed is usually better than less passes at slower speed. A few more tips:
Fixed focal lengths are a bit less stressful, but also less flexible. I use a 7w with a variable focus, mounted to a 3018 with Z axis. I'll set my Z home as far as possible from the material surface while still able to focus the beam properly. The reason is because the longer the beam before the convergence point, the narrower it will be immediately above the focus. With that, you can cut deeper into material--the previously cut material above doesn't interfere with as much of the beam, as it would with a wider beam due to focal point closer to the module.
I use the 3018, but there's nothing specific about that spec that is better or worse than another. The important part is the Z axis. I can generate my gcode to lower the Z by a few micrometers with each pass, keeping the focal point at the material. The rate of Z adjustment is different for each type of material.
Some materials, like wood, produce ash when burned in the cut. After several passes, the ash will completely block the beam from being able to penetrate deeper. The ash also glows, therefore radiating the thermal energy to the sides and causing unwanted results. I use 2 strategies: a relatively high CFM fan to blow ash and smoke (which cools into soot/ash) away; and I configure break points in my gcode so that I can take a moment to brush the cut path before resuming.
Hope these help!
If you had a platform (z) and an air nozzle attached setup to clear the debris, you might be able to cut thicker materials compensating for both the focal length and the debris that clogs up deeper cuts.
The issue when cutting through 4mm balsa is from the nature or your "cutting element" the laser is manuly focalised on the top or the material. When it has cut two mm, the laser isn't focalised in trench and the material needs more and more energy to cut because instead of focusing thé energy in a tiny spot to burn a little piece of material, it is burning a greater surface. It would has been useful to have a Z-axis to lift down the laser after each loop and keep the energy/surface ratio constant
Edit : I had not seen the explanation before posting m'y comment
Maybe, try to focus the laser in the middle of the material instead of the surface
This is correct. To add to this, instead of focusing the laser in the middle before you start, do 1 or 2 passes with it focused on the surface then refocus the laser to the "new" surface a couple of mm down, keep repeating the process until you've cut all the way through the material. The more you do it between passes, the better the cut will be as long as the material or the machine head doesn't move.
Great review 👍
Off topic question: Do you have a future DIY project on your list concerning a reflow oven for SMT board assembly?
Very informative thanks 😀
Thank you for explain and show details
Great video and great test!!! THX a lot
Love your new intro
A very good review indeed . Thanks a lot
To cut thicker materials you need z-axis or automated adjustable focus to move the laser focus down through the materials. You are correct in that 435nm does nothing on clear or white. And in fact most metals act like mirrors for infrared (heat). This is why laser cutting metals is so difficult. Great video and comprehensive!
Really good and informative video. Thanks
I really like the Italian like English accent..It's crystal clear and sweet
13:40 Thank you for helping - everyone who sells this equipment guarantees that it makes markings on the metal - and you could confirm that they don't ... thank you for saving me some money. Hug from Brazil !
it is possilble... but you need a special paint for that.
thanks for the video! I've seen a lot of these types of machines advertised on my Facebook feed. I've got a 130W CO2 laser and i typically cut 3mm acrylic and 30mm/s and 3mm MDF at 45mm/s. typically engraving speeds of 400mm/s. I'd have to agree with the glasses although because you are dealing with visible light, if you can see any blue light at all then id say that they are no good but better than nothing. one thing that bothers me with these cheap machines is that there is no air assist. if you had a nozzle that added pressured air to the cut location then the cutting speed would be greatly increased. it's just something all these machines don't have as an option. that and fume extraction :P a good little machine for experimentation and prototyping. I've ordered a "40W" laser which i will just mount to my CO2 laser head ( my controller has dual laser head control as an option) so I'll run some experiments soon :)
useful info, thank you
Nice review Deki. Thanks.
You are amazing my bro. Earned a subscriber.
Good video. Thank you.
Great video!! I’m sold!
Fantastic vid as always,thanks for sharing.
Can this engrave bone materials? Or do i need co2 40W laser?
Could you try cutting mylar sheet? The thin stuff used for stencils. It usually comes in white or clear, so I've been reluctant to buy this unit or others like it because that's the main use I want it for.
Is it works fine with round material like bamboo engraving.
Definitely need to have a Z-axis, even on a laser so as you go down the material, you can step the Z down. Plus, you can focus as 50mm from the object and raise the Z for thicker material.
Hi and thanks for the video, im waiting for my kkmoon 20w laser to arrive which I ordered from AliExpress but was wondering if the glasses they provide with it are sufficient enough ? Anyone knows? Could someone recommend good glasses for 20w laser with 445nm I think from like eBay or amazon so I won’t pay more for the glasses that the laser but give me enough eye protection?
Thank you very much
Hello is it possible to make a solder Stencil with the laser cutter? will it possible to engrave to a vinyl or something thin sheet material like, for a footprint of a smd device example atmega16u2 qfn footprints?
This was a pretty cool review! Can you upgrade the laser? Maybe a follow up video?
I've been doing test cuts on different materials. Chipboard, Modeling Plywood, Basswood (from Linden trees). In different thickness. The plywood is the toughest. I think it has something to do with the glue between the layers. Basswood. Blows through Basswood like a its air. Chip board cuts really clean but the engraving is very fragile. I really need to build a fence system and clamps so I can take parts off the machine and register them for secondary operations. I'm more interested in structure building in HO scale. The engraver will be used to engrave brick patterns for walls with the brick patterns interlocking like finger joints. Just draw up all CAD drawing with the same start point.
Steel needs to be coated with moly lube. Then it'll etch.
Love your videos... what machine do you suggest to cut acrylic blanks? I make keychains and use acrylic blanks. Something reasonably priced. Thank you
I'm contemplating swapping the board for ramps 1.6 to add a z axis and possibly rotary axis. Have you any tips?
if you put the laser on a 3d printer head you could adjust the z axis as you do repetitions to keep the laser in focus. in theory. divide the thickness of the material by the number of reps for each pass.
Love your video
thanks for all this test.
For metal; issue is not power but wavelength; we need IR laser with high power but it is not available at low price yet
Making a foam plane sounds really cool! Looking forwards to that!
Does this ever happen?
Hi thanks for this video.
I am mainly interested in laser cutting/engraving Silicone bands. Will this do the job ?
Thank you!
Nice and helpful video
For the clear Acrylic, would it be possible to engrave or cut it if the top surface was first covered with washable marker, easy remove tap or even paint?
For cutting thicker material, edit software to place stoppages, where your refocus on each pass
Buenos días! Acabo de adquirir un Ortur Laser Master 2 de 20W, estaba realizando algunas pruebas para llegarle al punto que me gustara, con la escala de grises no lo lograba entonces actualicé el firmware pero tengo problemas ahora se ha descontrolado los movimientos X y Y. Cualquier movimiento me indica "límite de movimiento excedido" Que puedo hacer?? Hay alguna forma de restaurarlo a fabrica.
Ayuda por favor
Best ever video
Is there any laser cut specific to cut paper and light fabric? Cause I make clothes for action figures and I need one. I was wondering if this is fine for this purpose
Hey buddy I know I'm late to the party but I'm new to woodworking and wanted an engraver..im planning on engraving on cutting boards and stove covers, you think this will be good enough for something as big as those?
This is a very useful video.. Thank you for sharing it. Subscribed and a bit LIKE too.
Maybe you can help. I just got a Lasermaster 2 20 W. It worked great and was just getting productive, then ran into a snag. When I turn the machine on and try to link it to Lightburn, the program can't connect. The lights are on in the laser and it homes itself but will not connect. I'm still waiting to hear from Gearbest. Any ideas?? Steve
sir what is difference between blue laser and green laser
is it have more power to cut or better efficiency er
Do you happen to know what kind of firmware is used on the controller board? Is is GRBL?
You could try air-assist it helps these lower-powered lasers a lot just a very narrow jet at the focal point
That's right, my laser-engraver cuts Balsa with a thickness of up to 6mm with air-assist, and it has about 2.5 Watts ^^
Hi, is possible to engrave rubber for create stamp ? Thanks for answer 👍
Hello thank you for video. I had a question can you engrave sunglasses ?
Besides blowing away the smoke, is there any advantage to lowering the laser between passes to make the focal point deeper?
"What's up my friends to this new video!"
Best intro ever.
Good demonstration Electronoobs. I wonder if you can solder surface mount components with it using solder paste?
Well I guess I can’t build a portable death ray with this thing.
Good video. Thanks.
Well if you can get really close, and if you can immobilise your victims for a sufficient amount of time, I'm sure you'd be able to kill someone with this. ;-)
Hi could u please advise if this laser could engrave deboss on silicone rubber? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm looking for a laser cutter. What is more powerful mW or w. I see one that has 500 mW and then I was looking at the 20w. Can you answer
Totem S 40W / NEJE Master 2S Max / Atomstack A5 Pro / Ortur Laser Master 2 pro
I found the four. would like to know which one of the favorites is and which one is best for small knives, normal kitchen knives, silver key rings, zippo, silver engraved bracelet for children. thank you in advance for the help and information I will get. nice day
Hi where do you recommend to buy black acrylic sheets of 2.5 mm thickness?
Can you use the lazer with out the mashine will it work just on its own without it being on the mashine
Hey guy, please, don't stop your video
Eric from Reunion Island.
Thanks for all.
Hi, good morning. Could you tell me what brand of glasses you use. The ones I have after using the machine feel as if it had dirt inside my eyes. Could you help me choose the right glasses with a power of 5w blue? Thank you
Why do you need to be in the same room? It's an unecessary risk.
make a right angle tube that focuses a jet of air with the laser it will help a LOT.. i use a big 60w aquarium air pump with a 3/8" silicone air line... and a 3d printed cone with a 2mm opening it press fits over the focus ring and the air help clears the cut like this a 10w can cut 12mm balsa in 15 passes at 5mm/s
Yes, the stated output (15/10/7/5.5W) all turn out to be far different and lower figures (5, 3.5, 2.5, 1.6W) once they finally give you an honest "luminous output" figure. Those cheats! All your tests were wonderful to see. You've convinced me that these blue/violet lasers just won't do. I'll spend the same amount of money ~$335USD and get a K40 (Chi) CO2 laser instead. And maybe pick up a small 2W laser unit (
Could you make a Video about how to etch a pcb?!
hullo, i am an owner of that same engraver, after tracing pcb boards, is it possible to punch holes too?
very nice video!
Hi where do you recommend to get wooden smartphone cases?
Can we change from laser head to a cnc head type ? Thank you
If this was fixed to a CNC router head that has Z up & down movement, I wonder if you could do separate passes with the Z moving down to refocus the beam with each pass?
hi do you recommend it as use on wood? thanks
wow great vid.
I'm almost sure your modul is defect or not correctly adjusted. I got better results with my 2.5w Laser. But you have to adjust the output power first
Could this engrave on 3d prints like Hatchbox wood PLA, PETG, PLA etc without warping ?
Thanks for the acrylic test, was considering a 20W diode laser, but I need to be able to cut white and transparent acrylic. Seems like you need to step up to a CO2 laser for it
I have a EleksLaser- A3 Pro 2500mW Laser with a Z Axis mod.
The Z Axis mod will lower the laser every loop causing the focus to stay on the material needed to be cut.
This mod works great!
Ortur Laser Master has more safety protection function, also the power ( Electrical Power: 15W, Luminous Power: 4000-4500 mw) of this one is higher, maybe you coud consider to try this one.
@@justintan7817 I for sure would like to try / test / review it. Will you send me one? :-)
Do you think that with metal there would be a problem with the beam reflecting back into the laser and damaging it?
Hi, you didn't mentioned which glasses to buy as that is what U said, please provide some links
Thanks, it's a really useful video! Can you also cut white non-woven fabric?
As always an amazing video.
Can you try fixing the laser in one place and putting a bunch of mirrors. This will allow for a much faster engraving.
that is not realistic for this class of laser and mechanism.
most all CO2 lasers do use mirrors.
Not this type of laser. The beam isn't long and straight like a co2. It is a diode laser. These lasers are a challenge when it comes to optics
How is your delta working i love mine supper fast like it more than my ender 3 pro v2
Hi, Thanks for sharing all your information!
Is it possible to engrave transparent acrylic with this 15W laser?
Yes, but you have to cover acrylic with some black paint. Black nail polish should do.
@@jedzciejapka what about bone materials? Can 15w engrave it? Or you need co2 40W laser?
Hola, tengo una pregunta, tengo una neje máster 20W , pero no consigo hacer que me coja algunos archivos, la propia aplicación neje es bastante corta, que otro programa puedo usar? He probado varios pero no conectan
Thanks
Good afternoon ... I hope you can help me ... I am looking to buy a laser for cutting cardboard, maximum 5mm ... This video you show is of a 15w laser ... I have seen one of 20w. .. The question is, if you can help me, what are the technical details that I should consider to buy one ... besides being 15w, 20w or more ... On eBay there are a number of offers but, I can't technically establish what is the best option. Thank you very much if you can help me ... Best Regards
Love your accent dude!
Hello my friend ..
Can we replace the lazer hed with another more powerful one (40_50 _60 _ets..watts).with the same set and the same program.
and what changes be made .
thanks ..
the only higher power lasers are CO2 based, certainly will not fit on the mechanism he is using.
its the tube and psu not the head!
With a cone shaped focus point, rather than setting the focus point on the top surface, try setting it roughly halfway through the balsa, it won't be as clean of a cut, but it should make it to both sides.
Did you try to engrave rubber sheet pad for sealer stamp?
What is the laser cutting machine in market I should buy to cut 4 mm thick balsa and 2 mm thick ply and also cut 2 mm fiber class.Kindly advise