As my valued subscriber enjoy these discount Codes: $409.99 (lowest price ever) Coupon code(reduce $30 more): R510WSAVE30 Discount: $10 OFF over $100 $40 OFF over $300 $80 OFF over $600 Promo time: 20th Nov - 30th Nov : www.longer3d.com/pages/big-sale 110v (US) Laser engraver: s.zbanx.com/r/aC1rxbHsOWMu 240v (UK/EU) Laser engraver: s.zbanx.com/r/u5o1bLeWujNu Air assist/accessories : s.zbanx.com/r/U4RIOdsWbpxi For latest news and insights visit our instagram page here: instagram.com/delisledesign
@@samikh7795 the box I designed myself. I can make that available for download if you like? I was going to make a set of many sizes for download. Cheers J
When producing your files to engrave/cut, its best to cut inner shapes first and then the final shape last. If you cut out the external perimeter first, there is a chance the piece will shift, since it's no longer attached to the source wood. Inner to outer will ensure the alignment remains the same. Doesn't seem to be an issue on this particular project, but there may be some designs where it'll come in to play.
Hey Josh! Just bought this machine up from Amazon today for USD 237.95!!! Went ahead and also got the honeycomb grid and air assist attachment. Heard someone else mention building some kind of downdraft filter table and have the top open...might require a good bit of airflow to handle the smoke. Not going to do any heavy materials yet--just paper. My wife is a teacher and needed lettering for some bulletin boards. The paper cutter we have had requires adhesive cutting sheets to adhere the paper to and when the adhesive goes bad, it requires buying a new cutting sheet--$27 a pop!!! So when the adhesive gets fouled, $27 down the toilet!!! 😬
for cutting every laser, diode or co2 works better with air assist for a few reasons. it adds oxygen to the fire as it's burning, as well as clears the line of sight for the laser to the material. I'm surprised that these LED lasers haven't had air assist from the very beginning to be honest. but I guess few people thought they would cut at that time? not sure but it should be standard on every machine
These are just the bare basics, no air assist, no safety enclosure. Like buying a car that is just the frame, wheels and engine with no chassis. Is it cheap? Yes! Will it drive? Yes! Is it safe to use? Hell no!
Just a heads up, if you mask off the wood with wide format masking tape, the wood will stay looking clean on the face. You’ll just have to remove the tape that is leftover.
It's crazy how these machines have evolved in a couple of years, before only industrial actors could afford this kind of technology, very impressive, thanks for the vid! Great job. People underestimate the work that goes in a video. Mainstream has teams working around the clock, but they do such a poor job that people like you have to carry the burden of their topics single handedly, the good thing is that you don't have to report to the man, well almost. Again big thumbs up!!
Thank you so much for your support and encouragement. It's good to know that you understand the work involved. hopefully I'll be able to keep a balance of being valuable to both my subscribers and sponsors and so continue to produce more videos like this. All the very best. Cheers J
Bị nghiện bài này từ thời Bảo Thy, ko ngờ lại có ngày được nghe idol mới trong lòng mình Đức Phúc cover lại. Cảm ơn em ĐP vì đã cover lại lắng đọng cảm xúc như vậy
you should refocus the diode on thicker wood, the sweet spot on the diode is only a few mm's wide where it will cut at maximum strength, do one pass, re focus the machine to the depth of that pass less 1 mm and do the next, you should be able to get through in 3 passes not 16, a good cutting speed is 5 on speed and 100% on power if you are using Lightburn , always use air assist on cutting and never on engraving as it chars the woo9d. If you try these settings and re focus you should not get so much damaged to the face of your wood, you can also apply laser tape to the surface of the wood for a better cleaner cut. Choose thinner stainless steel if you want colours, the colours are generated by the heat of the laser as the metal warms, if its too thick it wont colour, with thinner stainless you can get a very broad range of colours, in Lightburn you have options to help you and the forum is a great resource. There are diodes a lot better than this which will cut up to 10mm in one pass because of the lens it uses. If anyone reads this I suggest you do your homework before buying this Laser as there are a lot of machines out there now from 100 usd upwards but once you get to the 600 mark consider using a C=2 laser which is much more powerful, the cheaper ones are known as K40's just make sure it is Lightburn compatible as that is the best Laser software you can buy. Nothing on the market is as powerful and easy to use. Always remember that these using a burning light to cut through wood or mark materials, make sure you take reasonable precautions to prevent that light from damaging anything directly under the laser as it can cause fires otherwise. Always where protective glasses and NEVER EVER leave the laser unattended and observe the 1 hour fire rule, return to the place of cutting within 1 hour of finishing to make sure there is nothing smouldering.
Zink spray is best for "blacking".. after lasering, remove that paint with acetone or something, it leave very good marking where laser hits. Works with titanium too!
Vacuum table to wood panels etc could be good too.. there's so many opportunities to make things more superior. That vacuum gives max ~1kg/cm2 force maximize to keep workpiece stay in place. It keeps piece in level for sure..
Of course, it would be nice to see a cutter that could be angled, and even elevated three feet. This is more like sculpting than just straight-out-of-the-gun cutting.
in longer ray5 , how many millimeters is the length of the following profiles? 1 - x-axis frame profile 2 - left and right frame profile 3 - rear and front frame profile Thank you for telling me the exact size of these profiles
Bought one of these a couple weeks ago. The 10w laser module quit working 5 minutes into first print with the longer logo file included. 2 weeks trying to get help from longer . The 5w works ok, but I would like to have a functional 10w laser I paid for.
Thank you so much for using decent music. So sick of the lo-fi trend. I prefer stuff that doesn't sound like it comes from a tape warped by the sun on someone's dashboard. A sound I'm familiar with cuz I'm old. Also, thanks for the info on this laser. My husband and I are getting into the maker world, and it's a bit confusing for us still. This one seems quite competent.
Thank you so much. Reviewing 5 more machines with different price ranges and qualities. I'll also be doing a beginner design tutorial for CNC. All the very best. Cheers J
Love the laser videos. Finally decided to get one after watching your last video. A good tip for reducing burning on the face of wooden parts is to cover the piece in masking tape before cutting. When it's peeled off it takes the soot with it and your left with a clean piece.
Thank you David. That's a great tip. I'll use that in the next review, well done on your purchase they're great tools and I think I'm going to set up another channel dedicated to them with my own designs for cutting. Cheers J
Yes I'm so pleased I went for it. I originally planned to convert it to a CNC plasma but am having so much fun with it as is I may have to get another for that project.
Also if doing a lot of laser cutting get hold of the widest tape that will fit your laser bed, for example 3M do tape up to 1450 mm wide. Another tip is that if you are cutting say very thing card or wood sheets and want to laminate them together for a sculptural type effect, buy sheets of douple sided tape (like double sided sticky tape but in large sheets) and apply before cutting, the laser will go straight through the tape along with the material creating the perfect shaped pre applied stick on backing
Very nice job explaining and review this beautiful tool. Congrats. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend Joshua. Can't wait to see more videos soon Joshua. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
Thank you so much. I've got a few blacksmithing videos on the horizon coming. Got few more lasers to review and other big tools for the workshop including a jib hoist, hydraulic table, hydraulic power unit and an electric power bank for welding on site. Thank you always for your support and encouragement. Cheers J
hi Joshua. it is very funny to watch how the model that I developed is cut out in the review of the laser machine. You should have taken a safe, this model is much more interesting in terms of functionality 😄
Hello, great material helped me a lot in making a purchase decision. Thanks ! The question is how much would it cost to share plans for this toolbox and box?
Thank you so much. All my designs are on my Etsy shop. Unfortunately the jewelry box is owned by Ugears so I can't share that. But it maybe on the Longer website. Cheers J
Ordered the 10W package with your discount code - thank you! I've just discovered "layered mandala" wall art and I can't wait to have a go. Thank you for the review.
Well done. Those are awesome designs, I'll be doing a few of those too. Also doing inlays with different coloured woods are great to do on these. All the very best. Cheers J
As I approach 60 I realize I can no longer be a “ Big Hammer, Big Wrench, Brute Force” kinda guy. I’m computer illiterate as I’ve never needed to be otherwise. Is this as simple as you have made it look? I'm fascinated with the possibilities of something like this occupying my free time.
Just remember that the laser is plenty powerful enough to permanently ruin your eyesight. So don't be in the same room as it when it is on or build and enclosure (With safety switch!). Direct light reflection hitting your eye will nuke your eye instantly. Indirect light will slowly degrade vision. When you notice something is wrong then it is to late. The safety glasses that comes with them are not to be trusted. Oh yeah and then there are the fumes. This is burning plywood. The glue emits formaldehyde (cancer) and all kinds of nasty burning wood stuff. You don't want to breathe this. Nor does your neighbours. You will need some kind of fune extraction setup, preferably with carbon filter.
Fantastic video! Appreciate this showing off the capability of these systems. As much as I'd love to invest in one of these open air CNC lasers, my biggest apprehension is safety around using one of these. 10W DC lasers can easily blind someone, and the shield on these systems does not account for reflection, which can arise from Metal engraving. (Might be an excuse for me to build some robust shroud).
Definitely a box of a fire retardant description is needed as well as extraction . I'm currently testing a 50w co2 laser that has an enclosure and extraction. Honestly the diode laser are still looking good in comparison especially in marking stainless steel. Cheers J
i am wondering if the resolution is good enough to write text and logos on a chip package. that would be nice for some low volume production where you buy empty microcontrollers or fpgas, program them, remove the original writing and apply the new product name. usually the manufacturers can do this as well but with volumes lower than 10.000 pieces they don't even have time to speak with you. and of course it costs extra.
@@joshuadelisle I'd counter that you're all about creativity and excellent workmanship, with a healthy dose of highly watchable content and well-informed commentary sprinkled in! That intricate box is just so cool!
Great stuff, I just got my first small scale cnc (with laser and spinner)and I'm totally amazed what I can make with that. Thank you for the video, I wish you a great and productive year 2023 !
@@runi5413 I got Vevor 3018 Pro with 500mW laser, easy to set up and works great with routing soft materials (max aluminum) Cutting anything else but cardboad with that laser needs to be forgotten though. Im running it with linux and did not even require too much a headache ;) For laser work I would recommend paid version of lightburn. For router I have used UGS, importing milling and routing work from any cad is easy. For laser in my version of the machine I need to set the laser mode on manually on the cli.
@@tlx4868 Oh cool, I was actually considering a Vevor but I couldn't find much about it on youtube or anything, so thx a lot for the tip 👍They got a sale on one model with a 7W laser so that should be beefy enough for what I'm planning to do with it. Will definitely check out Lightburn, too, thx for the info and happy lasering 😎
love the videos, just had my first laser cutter/engraver so its good to watch any helpful tips, i love the locking jewelry box, where would i find the pattern for that if anyone can help please
Thank you so much. That's great news. Unfortunately the puzzle box is not available publicly as it belongs to a company called Ugears but Longer may have it as a download on their website for their members but I'm not sure. Cheers J
You are an absolutely awesome presenter and your video is perfectly edited. To the point. But thanks a lot! I didn't even know I needed a laser cnc! LOL
More amazing video's. Thank you. Have I watched your recent tests on low cost desktop lasers. which would you choose based on value for money not just lowest cost.
I have 9 lasers now. Several haven't made the cut (figuratively and literally). I think this one is actually my favourite of the 10w models. I like the screen and using it without a computer and the laser has been consistent and reliable. They're giving me a 20w module for it next year to try out which is exciting. I'm also testing a 50w co2 laser shortly but that's 10x the price. Cheers J
Looks like a decent machine for the money. I don't suppose anyone knows if there would be any import fees to the UK and what they are likely to be (roughly)?
Joshua please download some laser files of boxes etc you will make a pretty penny from it I’m sure. I have the ortur master 3 arriving soon. Top video as per usual.
Nice! thank you I will set up a second shop and TH-cam channel I think as I can see myself playing with these a lot on the side. I have the design skills for it so worth a venture I think. Cheers J
When you did your recommendations, I was thinking exactly the same things. Especially the height adjustment. I would go one better on that...I would have the machine follow curved surfaces automatically so the distance between the laser and the material stays consistent. On your curved example, the shading would have been consistent if the laser was at a consistent height.
There are more expensive machines that can map and then follow irregular surfaces. There are also inexpensive rotary axis that handle simple cylindrical and round objects.
If it has no enclosure (8:14) what about the fumes? I can imagine that building a fume extractor / or enclosure will will cost you at least the same amount as the engraver itself.
You can buy enclosures with filtered fans very cheap now of the web. I have a very well ventilated workshop so I'm not so worried and I often ware a filtered mask. You could easily build one using a box, inline fan and some flexible ducting out of a window if you where really concerned but not a large budget. Cheers J
Thank you. For cutting it generally moves very slowly with low vibration and has little rubber feet. It also cam with 4 brackets for bolted on and screwing down if needed for high speed engraving. Cheers J
I'm cutting 8mm ply with this. 20w is even better and a 50w co2 laser is even better. You get approximately 10mm per minute per optical watt. So a 10w is 100mm/pm and 50w is 500mm/pm cutting speed. Cheers J
Reminder that any glued wood has very toxic fumes when laser cutting - check the glue used is laser friendly or use in well ventilated/scrubbed enclosure.
Great video. I’m interested in buying a machine, but it I need to learn more about converting drawings into digital files. I want make inlays by cutting thin pieces of exotic wood and inlaying the parts into a slab of wood that has been laser cut with the same art work. The slab art must be just slightly larger so that the cut outs can be press fit. Can you suggest some videos?
Thank you Albert. These lasers do a great job at that. Yes I'll do a video on designing for laser cutting and do an example inlay. I've got a few more reviews to do so I may be able to include it in one of those videos. All the very best. Cheers J
Hello, thank you for your video ! I have this machine Ray5 10w and it is impossible to cut pine wood over 5mm thick... The speed is set to 100mm/ minute, 20 pass, and the laser at 100% power with Lightburn. Is there anything else that needs to setting to make cutting wood ?
Do you have an air assist? The better the air assist the better the cut as it blows out the away the chard material revealing clean wood underneath ready to be cut again. Also if the belts are not the correct tension it may not cut on the previous line accurately. Also I'm noticing a drop in power after using it at 100% too often as the diodes diminish over time. I'm testing a LONGER 20w module but using it on low settings to see if it lasts longer.
Hello Joshua. Thanks for all the detailed explanations. A question. If you were a beginner and had to pick only 1 btw a creality falcon 10w, a longer ray5 10w a sclpfun 10w and a comgrow x1, which eould you.pick?
I would probably pick the comgrow because it's cheap, works fine, can be extended and they do a 20w upgrade module. The Longer Ray5 has the offline controller which is great but now that I use Lightburn for most projects it's simple enough just to keep it linked to the computer. Cheers J
I wish your links were for a UK audience too, which I would have expected with you being English. Trying to get this printer in the UK with the correct voltage and plug is not straightforward
Cheers Josh, nice machine. I got the old Chinese workhorse, the 40-watt K40, about 10 years ago. Great for cutting acrylic, engraving wood and metal but can't cut metal since it's a CO2 laser. Looking forward to your oxyacetylene vid :))
I've had mixed results with MDF. The glue in MDF and Plywood needs to be a specific kind that burns away and not just melt. You need a jet of compressed air above 20psi and not the standard pump that you get with the machine. You also may consider going faster with more passes so you don't catch it on fire and produce a cleaner cut. I do most cuts at 2000mm/m now. All the very best. Cheers J
Hi Joshua. Really enjoy your videos! I'm thinking of buying this machine as it's now even less expensive and, I'm a beginner. I'll get the air pump too. My guesting is, were staying in an rv for a few months and will be working outside under the rv awning to learn how it works. What do I need to put under the laser to use it on a table top? I don't quite understand that part. Do I have to buy a honeycomb? Will a rubber mat work? Spacers? Thank you!
Thank you. Firstly you need to consider safety. Lasers are dangerous and you can easily get blinded from one. So make sure you have good eye protection (specific laser glasses for the wave length of the laser) and adequate screening to protect you and others passing by. It needs a surface that doesn't burn such as steel, aluminum sheet etc. the Honey comb simply creates an air gap to help grasses pass through when cutting. You can use bits of wood as spacers otherwise. All the very best. Cheers J
Thanks much. I will definitely take all safety precautions. I'm a life long high voltage lineman and, welder. I'll find some steel sheet as a backer. Hope your New Year is blessed!
When you build the air assist, if you use a compressor you,ll need an air dryer , damp air cools the work zone ,inhibiting the burn , is that longer laser 10w output? Cheers .
Hi. I used a standard dryer and filter on mine. It's more important to have dry air for plasma cutting but for wood it's just necessary to blow away chard material so there is fresh material for the laser to cut. It's not that necessary to be completely dry with expensive drying equipment but I can imagine it will help a little. It's a 10w optical output. Cheers J
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I mean the design of the wooden box, I want to design the shapes of the wooden box configuration
@@samikh7795 the box I designed myself. I can make that available for download if you like? I was going to make a set of many sizes for download. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle please, i love it too.
Now it is $200.
Can you explain in hindi
When producing your files to engrave/cut, its best to cut inner shapes first and then the final shape last. If you cut out the external perimeter first, there is a chance the piece will shift, since it's no longer attached to the source wood. Inner to outer will ensure the alignment remains the same. Doesn't seem to be an issue on this particular project, but there may be some designs where it'll come in to play.
Hey Josh! Just bought this machine up from Amazon today for USD 237.95!!! Went ahead and also got the honeycomb grid and air assist attachment. Heard someone else mention building some kind of downdraft filter table and have the top open...might require a good bit of airflow to handle the smoke. Not going to do any heavy materials yet--just paper. My wife is a teacher and needed lettering for some bulletin boards. The paper cutter we have had requires adhesive cutting sheets to adhere the paper to and when the adhesive goes bad, it requires buying a new cutting sheet--$27 a pop!!! So when the adhesive gets fouled, $27 down the toilet!!! 😬
This cut through the fog of "what can I really do with this?" Thank you.
for cutting every laser, diode or co2 works better with air assist for a few reasons. it adds oxygen to the fire as it's burning, as well as clears the line of sight for the laser to the material. I'm surprised that these LED lasers haven't had air assist from the very beginning to be honest. but I guess few people thought they would cut at that time? not sure but it should be standard on every machine
I totally agree. Cheers J
These are just the bare basics, no air assist, no safety enclosure. Like buying a car that is just the frame, wheels and engine with no chassis. Is it cheap? Yes! Will it drive? Yes! Is it safe to use? Hell no!
Just a heads up, if you mask off the wood with wide format masking tape, the wood will stay looking clean on the face. You’ll just have to remove the tape that is leftover.
Great tip. Thank you
Can you tape on top of modge podge by chance?
It's crazy how these machines have evolved in a couple of years, before only industrial actors could afford this kind of technology, very impressive, thanks for the vid! Great job.
People underestimate the work that goes in a video. Mainstream has teams working around the clock, but they do such a poor job that people like you have to carry the burden of their topics single handedly, the good thing is that you don't have to report to the man, well almost.
Again big thumbs up!!
Thank you so much for your support and encouragement. It's good to know that you understand the work involved. hopefully I'll be able to keep a balance of being valuable to both my subscribers and sponsors and so continue to produce more videos like this. All the very best. Cheers J
Bị nghiện bài này từ thời Bảo Thy, ko ngờ lại có ngày được nghe idol mới trong lòng mình Đức Phúc cover lại. Cảm ơn em ĐP vì đã cover lại lắng đọng cảm xúc như vậy
you should refocus the diode on thicker wood, the sweet spot on the diode is only a few mm's wide where it will cut at maximum strength, do one pass, re focus the machine to the depth of that pass less 1 mm and do the next, you should be able to get through in 3 passes not 16, a good cutting speed is 5 on speed and 100% on power if you are using Lightburn , always use air assist on cutting and never on engraving as it chars the woo9d.
If you try these settings and re focus you should not get so much damaged to the face of your wood, you can also apply laser tape to the surface of the wood for a better cleaner cut.
Choose thinner stainless steel if you want colours, the colours are generated by the heat of the laser as the metal warms, if its too thick it wont colour, with thinner stainless you can get a very broad range of colours, in Lightburn you have options to help you and the forum is a great resource.
There are diodes a lot better than this which will cut up to 10mm in one pass because of the lens it uses. If anyone reads this I suggest you do your homework before buying this Laser as there are a lot of machines out there now from 100 usd upwards but once you get to the 600 mark consider using a C=2 laser which is much more powerful, the cheaper ones are known as K40's just make sure it is Lightburn compatible as that is the best Laser software you can buy. Nothing on the market is as powerful and easy to use.
Always remember that these using a burning light to cut through wood or mark materials, make sure you take reasonable precautions to prevent that light from damaging anything directly under the laser as it can cause fires otherwise. Always where protective glasses and NEVER EVER leave the laser unattended and observe the 1 hour fire rule, return to the place of cutting within 1 hour of finishing to make sure there is nothing smouldering.
A 10W laser can cut 9mm plywood!! I am blown away.
It's slow (100-200mm per minute) but it does it all by it's self. Cheers J
3D printers, eat your hearts out.
That is an outstanding model.
We are getting the longer 30 watt and I am so excited. It will be a lot better than the xtool we were using. Thanks for the review❤🥰💯
Thank you so much and all the very best. Cheers J
Thank You, You educated me and you made me laugh, what more can I ask.
Hi just come across you for the first time, now you've got me thinking what can I make one of these !!
Superb video, your style of presentation is spot on.
I agree with the height adjust + air assist + limit switches + safety need imporvement
Use vaseline as a resist on all your metal surfaces for the laser to etch. Learned it from some laser owner in the 90's.
I'll try that. Cheers J
Zink spray is best for "blacking".. after lasering, remove that paint with acetone or something, it leave very good marking where laser hits. Works with titanium too!
Nice tip. Cheers J
Vacuum table to wood panels etc could be good too.. there's so many opportunities to make things more superior.
That vacuum gives max ~1kg/cm2 force maximize to keep workpiece stay in place.
It keeps piece in level for sure..
Well worth 16 minutes of my life and you made my brain itch with ideas🤩👌👍ps I subscribed...
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Rengue has the laser adjustment exactly as you suggested
Of course, it would be nice to see a cutter that could be angled, and even elevated three feet. This is more like sculpting than just straight-out-of-the-gun cutting.
For a second there I thought it was cutting out parts for a "Antikythera" mechanism. Wow great machine !
I thought you were making a birch ply model of the antikythera machine.
in longer ray5 , how many millimeters is the length of the following profiles?
1 - x-axis frame profile
2 - left and right frame profile
3 - rear and front frame profile
Thank you for telling me the exact size of these profiles
..........THANK YOU! ....where do i find free patterns for printing?
Bought one of these a couple weeks ago. The 10w laser module quit working 5 minutes into first print with the longer logo file included. 2 weeks trying to get help from longer . The 5w works ok, but I would like to have a functional 10w laser I paid for.
That is a shame can you DM me your email and purchase number and I'll see what I can do. Cheers J
Didn't even know I wanted one of these, but now I do! Very good presentation style, have a new sub.
Thank you so much. Lots more to come. Cheers J
Thank you so much for using decent music. So sick of the lo-fi trend. I prefer stuff that doesn't sound like it comes from a tape warped by the sun on someone's dashboard. A sound I'm familiar with cuz I'm old. Also, thanks for the info on this laser. My husband and I are getting into the maker world, and it's a bit confusing for us still. This one seems quite competent.
Thank you so much. Reviewing 5 more machines with different price ranges and qualities. I'll also be doing a beginner design tutorial for CNC. All the very best. Cheers J
Love the laser videos. Finally decided to get one after watching your last video. A good tip for reducing burning on the face of wooden parts is to cover the piece in masking tape before cutting. When it's peeled off it takes the soot with it and your left with a clean piece.
Thank you David. That's a great tip. I'll use that in the next review, well done on your purchase they're great tools and I think I'm going to set up another channel dedicated to them with my own designs for cutting. Cheers J
Yes I'm so pleased I went for it. I originally planned to convert it to a CNC plasma but am having so much fun with it as is I may have to get another for that project.
@@cybernetrix nice! There are cheap ones on Banggood again now at the £150 mark. I'm loving them too. Cheers J
Also if doing a lot of laser cutting get hold of the widest tape that will fit your laser bed, for example 3M do tape up to 1450 mm wide. Another tip is that if you are cutting say very thing card or wood sheets and want to laminate them together for a sculptural type effect, buy sheets of douple sided tape (like double sided sticky tape but in large sheets) and apply before cutting, the laser will go straight through the tape along with the material creating the perfect shaped pre applied stick on backing
@@davidorf3921 good tip thank you. Cheers J
i like that puzzle you made. this is good video thanks for sharing it
Im thinking about to buy such a machine for the same reason. Plasma cutting. Also a bezinning blacksmith
Very nice job explaining and review this beautiful tool. Congrats. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend Joshua. Can't wait to see more videos soon Joshua. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
Thank you so much. I've got a few blacksmithing videos on the horizon coming. Got few more lasers to review and other big tools for the workshop including a jib hoist, hydraulic table, hydraulic power unit and an electric power bank for welding on site. Thank you always for your support and encouragement. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle your very welcome. Awesome. Congrats. Can't wait. Always great learning and watching your videos.
hi Joshua. it is very funny to watch how the model that I developed is cut out in the review of the laser machine. You should have taken a safe, this model is much more interesting in terms of functionality 😄
Your voice is premier league worthy.
You're very kind. Thank you. Cheers J
Digging the Channel.. Lots of well documented information..
Rad🤙🏻
Thank you so much. Cheers J
When cutting plywood, a laser burns the wood, BUT melts the glue. So if you can get it in one is better because the glue will drop out of the gap.
Hello there.
How does one acquire the file for the geared and keyed box?
Good video. That box is awesome, I also enjoyed the music.
Thank you so much. I try my best with every video. Cheers J
Would be interesting to see if you get the temper colors with an argon flood for the laser area 🤔
Hello, great material helped me a lot in making a purchase decision. Thanks ! The question is how much would it cost to share plans for this toolbox and box?
Thank you so much. All my designs are on my Etsy shop. Unfortunately the jewelry box is owned by Ugears so I can't share that. But it maybe on the Longer website. Cheers J
Ordered the 10W package with your discount code - thank you! I've just discovered "layered mandala" wall art and I can't wait to have a go. Thank you for the review.
Well done. Those are awesome designs, I'll be doing a few of those too. Also doing inlays with different coloured woods are great to do on these. All the very best. Cheers J
Your videos are top notch. Keep up the good work !
Thank you so much. Cheers J
😀 Hi. They have added Air Assist to thier product Line now. Nice review. Not a user just interested in technology.
As I approach 60 I realize I can no longer be a “ Big Hammer, Big Wrench, Brute Force” kinda guy. I’m computer illiterate as I’ve never needed to be otherwise. Is this as simple as you have made it look?
I'm fascinated with the possibilities of something like this occupying my free time.
Just remember that the laser is plenty powerful enough to permanently ruin your eyesight. So don't be in the same room as it when it is on or build and enclosure (With safety switch!). Direct light reflection hitting your eye will nuke your eye instantly. Indirect light will slowly degrade vision. When you notice something is wrong then it is to late. The safety glasses that comes with them are not to be trusted.
Oh yeah and then there are the fumes. This is burning plywood. The glue emits formaldehyde (cancer) and all kinds of nasty burning wood stuff. You don't want to breathe this. Nor does your neighbours. You will need some kind of fune extraction setup, preferably with carbon filter.
Fantastic video! Appreciate this showing off the capability of these systems. As much as I'd love to invest in one of these open air CNC lasers, my biggest apprehension is safety around using one of these. 10W DC lasers can easily blind someone, and the shield on these systems does not account for reflection, which can arise from Metal engraving. (Might be an excuse for me to build some robust shroud).
Definitely a box of a fire retardant description is needed as well as extraction . I'm currently testing a 50w co2 laser that has an enclosure and extraction. Honestly the diode laser are still looking good in comparison especially in marking stainless steel. Cheers J
I bought that exact jewelry box from a company called U-Gears a few years ago. Didn't know you could get the plans for this stuff though.
I wish you could - i've searched and can't find them anywhere
Great video. 👍. Also, what is the name of the company that sells the files to make the box? Would love to see what else they offer too
i am wondering if the resolution is good enough to write text and logos on a chip package.
that would be nice for some low volume production where you buy empty microcontrollers or fpgas, program them, remove the original writing and apply the new product name.
usually the manufacturers can do this as well but with volumes lower than 10.000 pieces they don't even have time to speak with you. and of course it costs extra.
Nice haircut (and you’ve had a shave)!
Love your videos and as always, thanks for making / sharing this excellent content.
Thank you Ian. I am all about inconsistency 😅. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I'd counter that you're all about creativity and excellent workmanship, with a healthy dose of highly watchable content and well-informed commentary sprinkled in! That intricate box is just so cool!
@@iandonkin6762 thank you so much. I appreciate your encouragement. Your very kind. Cheers J
Great stuff, I just got my first small scale cnc (with laser and spinner)and I'm totally amazed what I can make with that. Thank you for the video, I wish you a great and productive year 2023 !
Which one did you get?
(I'm thinking of getting one but I don't know where to start)
@@runi5413 I got Vevor 3018 Pro with 500mW laser, easy to set up and works great with routing soft materials (max aluminum) Cutting anything else but cardboad with that laser needs to be forgotten though. Im running it with linux and did not even require too much a headache ;) For laser work I would recommend paid version of lightburn. For router I have used UGS, importing milling and routing work from any cad is easy. For laser in my version of the machine I need to set the laser mode on manually on the cli.
@@tlx4868 Oh cool, I was actually considering a Vevor but I couldn't find much about it on youtube or anything, so thx a lot for the tip 👍They got a sale on one model with a 7W laser so that should be beefy enough for what I'm planning to do with it.
Will definitely check out Lightburn, too, thx for the info and happy lasering 😎
love the videos, just had my first laser cutter/engraver so its good to watch any helpful tips, i love the locking jewelry box, where would i find the pattern for that if anyone can help please
Thank you so much. You'll have to try and get in touch with Longer as that's who gave it to me. All the very best. Cheers J
12:11 one pass, many passes fill the cut with soot, which the laser cant penetrate??
I ran the demo and the results were awesome. What type of software and computer do I need to start doing my custom designs? Thanks again
Hi. Well done. If you can download lightburn you can design and cut most things from there. Cheers J
I watch your video along with others. Just built the machine with the extension kit. Where do I find the file for that puzzle box?
Thank you so much. That's great news. Unfortunately the puzzle box is not available publicly as it belongs to a company called Ugears but Longer may have it as a download on their website for their members but I'm not sure. Cheers J
Joshua this was an amazing video.. those companies need to pay you much more. Happy New year 🎉
amazing. congrats buddy
Sorry, dumb question maybe...what kind of wood were you using for the UGears jewelry box? That didn't look like basswood or birch.
Hard wood ply. Cheers J
Great Job buddy!
Thank you James. Cheers J
This is fascinating and seems to be an easy transition from my 3D printing. Nice work!
Thank you. Yes I know what you mean. I have an ender 3 and setting up was just as simple. Cheers J
I also enjoy 3D printing and have been looking into lasers. Great video!
@@CyberBobCity thank you. Yes they are very similar to operate. A great addition to the workshop I think. Cheers J
You are an absolutely awesome presenter and your video is perfectly edited. To the point.
But thanks a lot! I didn't even know I needed a laser cnc! LOL
Someone said you can put masking tape on the cut lines to seal the wood from smoke staining. Love air assessing fix. Thanks for sharing.
Dude over here summoning Cenobites, and we just go along for the ride.
Lol. Cheers J
That box is really nice!!
I love your makers mark!! My name is JD and I almost used to draw the same symbol of my initials the same way back in middle school 25 years ago 😆 🤣
The cool thing: You can make it LONGER
This tech is on my bucket list so I subscribed... 😀
Awesome thank you. Lots more to come. Cheers J
More amazing video's. Thank you. Have I watched your recent tests on low cost desktop lasers. which would you choose based on value for money not just lowest cost.
I have 9 lasers now. Several haven't made the cut (figuratively and literally). I think this one is actually my favourite of the 10w models. I like the screen and using it without a computer and the laser has been consistent and reliable. They're giving me a 20w module for it next year to try out which is exciting. I'm also testing a 50w co2 laser shortly but that's 10x the price. Cheers J
Wow, these things seem useful. No longer toys. And that box tickles my Steampunk acquisition sensors.
Looks like a decent machine for the money. I don't suppose anyone knows if there would be any import fees to the UK and what they are likely to be (roughly)?
Silly question.When cutting through the ply 3mm or 9mm... do you have a metal surface underneath the work piece.
Yes. I have a steel bench, some lasers come with a stainless steel sheet. I recommend getting a honey comb laser Matt. Cheers J
I don't understand the placement of the ports on the top rather than the side. Seems like it's inviting debris intrusion.
Joshua please download some laser files of boxes etc you will make a pretty penny from it I’m sure. I have the ortur master 3 arriving soon. Top video as per usual.
Nice! thank you I will set up a second shop and TH-cam channel I think as I can see myself playing with these a lot on the side. I have the design skills for it so worth a venture I think. Cheers J
Hi Joshua, COOL! Another great video. Thanks! 👍
Thank you so much. Cheers J
I have a 10w laser... I didnt know I could engrave stainless steel :o
When you did your recommendations, I was thinking exactly the same things. Especially the height adjustment. I would go one better on that...I would have the machine follow curved surfaces automatically so the distance between the laser and the material stays consistent. On your curved example, the shading would have been consistent if the laser was at a consistent height.
There are more expensive machines that can map and then follow irregular surfaces. There are also inexpensive rotary axis that handle simple cylindrical and round objects.
If it has no enclosure (8:14) what about the fumes? I can imagine that building a fume extractor / or enclosure will will cost you at least the same amount as the engraver itself.
You can buy enclosures with filtered fans very cheap now of the web. I have a very well ventilated workshop so I'm not so worried and I often ware a filtered mask. You could easily build one using a box, inline fan and some flexible ducting out of a window if you where really concerned but not a large budget. Cheers J
As a machinist, the indexing using the flatbar is smart, but how is the base secured against vibration?
Thank you. For cutting it generally moves very slowly with low vibration and has little rubber feet. It also cam with 4 brackets for bolted on and screwing down if needed for high speed engraving. Cheers J
It is important to me that this laser really can cut 1/4 inch ply. Are there other brands that can do that?
I'm cutting 8mm ply with this. 20w is even better and a 50w co2 laser is even better. You get approximately 10mm per minute per optical watt. So a 10w is 100mm/pm and 50w is 500mm/pm cutting speed. Cheers J
do you think this would be suitable for making aluminum injection molds? thank you for the highly detailed and informative video
no this won't touch aluminium at all. cheers J
Reminder that any glued wood has very toxic fumes when laser cutting - check the glue used is laser friendly or use in well ventilated/scrubbed enclosure.
I'll make sure to mention it more in my next videos. cheers J
you can purchase a laser heght adjustment add on for your laser on amazon for about 30.00
Just ordered mine, would be interested in files for some cool projects....
I am really amazed that 10watt went through 3mm & 9mm ply
Bare in mind it's very slow but it does it whilst I do other things. Cheers J
Great video. I’m interested in buying a machine, but it I need to learn more about converting drawings into digital files. I want make inlays by cutting thin pieces of exotic wood and inlaying the parts into a slab of wood that has been laser cut with the same art work. The slab art must be just slightly larger so that the cut outs can be press fit. Can you suggest some videos?
Thank you Albert. These lasers do a great job at that. Yes I'll do a video on designing for laser cutting and do an example inlay. I've got a few more reviews to do so I may be able to include it in one of those videos. All the very best. Cheers J
Dude, you are the hairiest man I've ever seen, that is amazing
Real man 👊😎👍
Great editing, great product trials, great music... and a realistic outlook on making things. Subbed!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Hello, thank you for your video ! I have this machine Ray5 10w and it is impossible to cut pine wood over 5mm thick... The speed is set to 100mm/ minute, 20 pass, and the laser at 100% power with Lightburn. Is there anything else that needs to setting to make cutting wood ?
Do you have an air assist? The better the air assist the better the cut as it blows out the away the chard material revealing clean wood underneath ready to be cut again. Also if the belts are not the correct tension it may not cut on the previous line accurately. Also I'm noticing a drop in power after using it at 100% too often as the diodes diminish over time. I'm testing a LONGER 20w module but using it on low settings to see if it lasts longer.
Hello Joshua. Thanks for all the detailed explanations. A question. If you were a beginner and had to pick only 1 btw a creality falcon 10w, a longer ray5 10w a sclpfun 10w and a comgrow x1, which eould you.pick?
I would probably pick the comgrow because it's cheap, works fine, can be extended and they do a 20w upgrade module. The Longer Ray5 has the offline controller which is great but now that I use Lightburn for most projects it's simple enough just to keep it linked to the computer. Cheers J
I wish your links were for a UK audience too, which I would have expected with you being English. Trying to get this printer in the UK with the correct voltage and plug is not straightforward
Oh. There should be UK links. Did you expand the whole description?
I wonder if it is possible to stain and varnish wood before cutting
It is. Also as I'll demonstrate in my next laser videos how to use tape to stop reduce smoking on the edges. Cheers J
Nice vid, but that box design will have the bottom dropping out eventually, unless you fasten it with something.
Cheers Josh, nice machine. I got the old Chinese workhorse, the 40-watt K40, about 10 years ago. Great for cutting acrylic, engraving wood and metal but can't cut metal since it's a CO2 laser. Looking forward to your oxyacetylene vid :))
Thank you Gary. Lots to come. Cheers J
what are your settings for cutting wood im using MDF 1/8 and 1/4 thickness and its taking forever to cut
I've had mixed results with MDF. The glue in MDF and Plywood needs to be a specific kind that burns away and not just melt. You need a jet of compressed air above 20psi and not the standard pump that you get with the machine. You also may consider going faster with more passes so you don't catch it on fire and produce a cleaner cut. I do most cuts at 2000mm/m now. All the very best. Cheers J
where i can find this file to cut ?
Hi Joshua. Really enjoy your videos!
I'm thinking of buying this machine as it's now even less expensive and, I'm a beginner. I'll get the air pump too. My guesting is, were staying in an rv for a few months and will be working outside under the rv awning to learn how it works. What do I need to put under the laser to use it on a table top? I don't quite understand that part. Do I have to buy a honeycomb? Will a rubber mat work? Spacers?
Thank you!
Thank you. Firstly you need to consider safety. Lasers are dangerous and you can easily get blinded from one. So make sure you have good eye protection (specific laser glasses for the wave length of the laser) and adequate screening to protect you and others passing by. It needs a surface that doesn't burn such as steel, aluminum sheet etc. the Honey comb simply creates an air gap to help grasses pass through when cutting. You can use bits of wood as spacers otherwise. All the very best. Cheers J
Thanks much. I will definitely take all safety precautions. I'm a life long high voltage lineman and, welder. I'll find some steel sheet as a backer.
Hope your New Year is blessed!
@@kellyleewright97 well done 👍. All the very best and strength to you my friend. Cheers J
Can you create a video of designing in software also?
Yes I plan to once I get the time. Cheers J
Titanium is great for getting colors!!!
When you build the air assist, if you use a compressor you,ll need an air dryer , damp air cools the work zone ,inhibiting the burn , is that longer laser 10w output? Cheers .
Hi. I used a standard dryer and filter on mine. It's more important to have dry air for plasma cutting but for wood it's just necessary to blow away chard material so there is fresh material for the laser to cut. It's not that necessary to be completely dry with expensive drying equipment but I can imagine it will help a little. It's a 10w optical output. Cheers J
Great video, is this CNC able to cut thin polycarbonate sheets safely? (~1.5mm thick)
Not sure about polycarbonate, most plastics are not suitable because of toxic vapours that are released. Acrylic is considered suitable. Cheers J