Thank you so much for making videos for an audience who can't afford fancy power tools, I'm so much more inspired to make my home beautiful on a budget with my own hands thanks to your videos!
Hi, A tip would be to make the cut line on the back of the architrave. This way it is easier to get the cut line to align exactly with the length mark. As you can see from the video right at the beginning Charlie was quite a bit out on his first cut line. Also cut right on the line so that joints match exactly.
Hi Charlie, another great video. What about doing a video on how to hang a door in an out of square frame. That would be really useful as most older homes have door frames that are out of square. I did some for someone a while back and they can be a pain. Keep the videos coming. Very useful
Great vid again, I tend to step my architrave back a little further than 5mm, great looking job and I do like your thicker wood. Look forward to the next one. Door furniture can be a little tricky. Thanks for sharing. Regards Mike
Hi Mike. Very wise - I should have done that, and I was contemplating putting a stock chamfer instead of rounding over edge on the hinge facing architrave, but thought it might look a bit odd. I think you've all persuaded me to do the door furniture vid :) Thanks for taking the time to comment - much appreciated!
Another one EXCELLENT video from Charlie. In depth details and tips so even if you are STUPID LIKE ME and i can do it, there is no chance or excuse from you of NOT TO DO IT! ONCE AGAIN A MASSIVE THANK YOU CHARLIE. Our house at the end will be named as "Charlies Subscriber" or something similar to that.
Blimey that result looks good!! The information about door opening and pressing against architrave which is close to door and has a bulged profile was great. Learnt a lot. You have a good presentation style. Subscribed.
Use a shooting board and plane to get the 45deg perfect if your using hand tools. The end result will be better than a chop saw if you have a good sharp plane.
Old school mitre box and tenon saw for cutting accuracy, sliding bevel for checking and transfering angles the rest is just length measurement and execution. School O level woodwork from the 1970's Charlie. You had the right idea but not fully thought through and you would have realized after doing more of them "why do I keep lifting this piece of wood up?" Happens to everyone at the start.
Thanks, I found this useful, I also found it useful to glue the mitres with mitre glue (cyano and activator) and leave them on the flat floor 20 mins to cure with perfect joints. It was surprising that a) they didn't come apart during handling and fitting and b).could still resist being mechanically fixed slightly under tension if the door frames were not perfectly square but the mitres would stay perfect so didn't need filling and sanding. This was with MDF.,.
That's really interesting. I reckon you've found the best use for that stuff although I also used it for some temporary bonds on my recent wardrobe build too.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Carys Langsdale Thanks Carys. Mainly because of you cut on the reverse, the front is more likely to splinter from the saw, which doesn't matter if it happens on the back.
I don't know if you have done a video in the past Charlie, but for those people without the drop saw, maybe a quick and easy mitre box made from scrap. Yes please the full Monty. Hinges, handles and hanging.
V T Hi there, I'll post a video showing how I fitted the latch but bottom line is most handles are designed with a rotating cuff so you can rotate it so that you have the screws above and below the latch (whether the handle has 3 or 4 screws), rather than directly in line with the latch. Did yours not enable you to do that?
Hey I’m at a complete loss as to do with my door architrave i live in a 200 year old cottage the frame seams to be oak but its badly dented, chipped and caked in gloss any ideas what i could do? 🙏🏼
Tricky. Some would advocate stripping it, but then you'd have a fair amount of filling to do to remove the dents. At least that way though you'd preserve the integrity of the architrave, tempting though it is to simply replace it.
@@CharlieDIYte thank you so much for the reply, sorry for all the questions I’m currently in lockdown so could try and make a start I can’t find any videos you have done stripping wood. Would you suggest paint stripper. Thanks in advance love the channel by the way you helped me a ton during the crappy time.
Hi! After bed bb let down so many times I thought I would have a go at this myself- I did just have an accident though - whilst taking off skirting boards the crow bar bounced back and hurt my nose 😞 I just wanted to ask you about the ogee architrave - do you have Instagram where I can send a pic - I just want to ask if it needs to be close to hinge or there can be an inch gap 😬
Oh I'm sorry to hear that 😬 Are you ok? You'd typically leave between 5 and 10mm between the architrave and door frame, to show for the barrel on the hinge but by all means send me a photo - to charliediyte@gmail.com
If the frame isn't 90 degrees, you could do what we do when we're constructing pelmet boards around bay windows, you could lay both pieces on top of each other (tacking them temporarily into place if necessary), and mark a pencil line on each piece where they meet on the external and internal angles. You can then join the two pencil marks up on each piece with a diagonal line, and that's where you need to cut.
When I was doing my farther in laws, he had removed the old ones and got the room plastered. Unfortunately the new architraves would not sit flush where they meet - what would you do in this situation?
+ZlatanFan Tricky one. Are you saying that one architrave looks higher than the other where they meet at the angle? If so, I'm guessing that's because the plaster isn't completely level! If that is the case you'll need to get some medium eg 120 grade sand paper or similar and lightly sand the area that's stopping the architraves from meeting up properly. You could work out the areas that are too high by laying a spirit level, piece of wood or similar flat object around the door frame to see where it's rocking. If that's not the problem send me another comment.
For anyone else reading this and wondering, I've just come up against this very issue. On removal of my old facings I found that the plaster was proud of the door frame. Not an issue with the old facings as they met the plaster edge but the new ones are wider and so they sit on the higher plaster edge causing the facing to sit at an angle. My solution, after searching online and finding it, is to use some MDF strip as near to the size of the plaster step as possible and basically use it as shim all the way round. For decorative purposes it's a good idea to leave a reveal the same size as your facing reveal between the MDF and the door frame. If that makes sense.
V T Interesting one. Yes in the sense that it certainly doesn't want to be thinner. I aim for mine to be flush but they typically end up a couple of mm proud of the skirting. When you buy skirting and architrave - particularly from the cheaper outlets, in my experience they tend to be the same depth but I may be wrong. What does anyone else think?
Thank you so much for making videos for an audience who can't afford fancy power tools, I'm so much more inspired to make my home beautiful on a budget with my own hands thanks to your videos!
Thanks for taking the time to send me that. I'm humbled you've found my videos useful and inspiring. 🙏
Hi, A tip would be to make the cut line on the back of the architrave. This way it is easier to get the cut line to align exactly with the length mark. As you can see from the video right at the beginning Charlie was quite a bit out on his first cut line. Also cut right on the line so that joints match exactly.
Cheers Charlie. I’d class myself as a competent DIYer but find it particularly reassuring watching your videos prior to tackling a big or tricky job.
Hi Charlie, another great video. What about doing a video on how to hang a door in an out of square frame. That would be really useful as most older homes have door frames that are out of square. I did some for someone a while back and they can be a pain. Keep the videos coming. Very useful
You and ultimate handyman have really helped lately.
Very helpful mate,,,I’m in the middle of doing my house up,,your videos are helping me a lot 👍
Thanks mate. Really glad you're finding them useful!
Nice work Charlie! Would be great to see the video on hinges and replacing door furniture 👍
Great tip on putting s slight bevel so they come together thanks.
Love the videos - nice to see UK based DIY stuff because its more relevant :)
Thanks, I really appreciate that 👍
Another great video. Always good to see how other people mark out and measure up. Would love to see the door furniture video.
That’s a very useful tutorial Charlie and Good that you did not pick a simple one. Good finish.👍
+Norman Boyes Thanks Norman - much appreciated!
Yes please to door furniture video! And how to hang a door (with all the steps necessary incl chiselling out hinges). Great videos, so helpful :)
Suzanne Kimber Hi Suzanne, thanks so much for taking the time to comment! Ok, watch this space 🙂
Great vid again, I tend to step my architrave back a little further than 5mm, great looking job and I do like your thicker wood. Look forward to the next one. Door furniture can be a little tricky. Thanks for sharing. Regards Mike
Hi Mike. Very wise - I should have done that, and I was contemplating putting a stock chamfer instead of rounding over edge on the hinge facing architrave, but thought it might look a bit odd. I think you've all persuaded me to do the door furniture vid :) Thanks for taking the time to comment - much appreciated!
Hi, Thanks for this - great video and very useful. Yes please to resetting the hinges and rehanding of the doors.
Another one EXCELLENT video from Charlie. In depth details and tips so even if you are STUPID LIKE ME and i can do it, there is no chance or excuse from you of NOT TO DO IT! ONCE AGAIN A MASSIVE THANK YOU CHARLIE. Our house at the end will be named as "Charlies Subscriber" or something similar to that.
Blimey that result looks good!! The information about door opening and pressing against architrave which is close to door and has a bulged profile was great. Learnt a lot. You have a good presentation style. Subscribed.
Use a shooting board and plane to get the 45deg perfect if your using hand tools. The end result will be better than a chop saw if you have a good sharp plane.
The finishing is fantastic loved the video
Another great video and I would appreciate you doing one on door furniture too. Thanks again, Bob
Bob Emerson Thanks Bob for taking the time to comment. Watch this space, I'm onto it!
Another great information video .👍👍
Thanks Andrew 👊
Old school mitre box and tenon saw for cutting accuracy, sliding bevel for checking and transfering angles the rest is just length measurement and execution. School O level woodwork from the 1970's Charlie. You had the right idea but not fully thought through and you would have realized after doing more of them "why do I keep lifting this piece of wood up?" Happens to everyone at the start.
Funnily enough I'm using an old school (home made) mitre box and tenon saw in my next video.
Hold ya square on the mould and gently cut along the square especially when you have a moulded arch keep it nice and straight
Thanks, I found this useful, I also found it useful to glue the mitres with mitre glue (cyano and activator) and leave them on the flat floor 20 mins to cure with perfect joints. It was surprising that a) they didn't come apart during handling and fitting and b).could still resist being mechanically fixed slightly under tension if the door frames were not perfectly square but the mitres would stay perfect so didn't need filling and sanding. This was with MDF.,.
That's really interesting. I reckon you've found the best use for that stuff although I also used it for some temporary bonds on my recent wardrobe build too.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Useful video - can I ask why you didn't draw the 45 degree angle and cut on the flat side of the architrave rather than the beveled side?
Carys Langsdale Thanks Carys. Mainly because of you cut on the reverse, the front is more likely to splinter from the saw, which doesn't matter if it happens on the back.
Great video charlie.keep up the good work
Tex Lfc1974 Thanks - I really appreciate that!!
I don't know if you have done a video in the past Charlie, but for those people without the drop saw, maybe a quick and easy mitre box made from scrap. Yes please the full Monty. Hinges, handles and hanging.
Hi Peter Compton, it is called a 'Chop Saw'. 😀
always interesting to see from another ones perspective.
yolol Thanks for that. Not necessarily better, but a different way of doing things 🙂
Have you got a video on why door handle screws are always too long and snag on the door lock? Fed up always cutting them.
V T Hi there, I'll post a video showing how I fitted the latch but bottom line is most handles are designed with a rotating cuff so you can rotate it so that you have the screws above and below the latch (whether the handle has 3 or 4 screws), rather than directly in line with the latch. Did yours not enable you to do that?
Why is bullnose to inside if you are using bullnose skirting?
Nice work
Thanks Charlie great video!
What was the width of it?
What gap do you leave around the door frame.
Hard Worker think he said 5mm
Yes please make door handing video + mortice install
Another perfect job 😀
Hey I’m at a complete loss as to do with my door architrave i live in a 200 year old cottage the frame seams to be oak but its badly dented, chipped and caked in gloss any ideas what i could do? 🙏🏼
Tricky. Some would advocate stripping it, but then you'd have a fair amount of filling to do to remove the dents. At least that way though you'd preserve the integrity of the architrave, tempting though it is to simply replace it.
@@CharlieDIYte thank you so much for the reply, sorry for all the questions I’m currently in lockdown so could try and make a start I can’t find any videos you have done stripping wood. Would you suggest paint stripper. Thanks in advance love the channel by the way you helped me a ton during the crappy time.
This video, is why chippys are still in business.
Some chippies are not as thorough and considering he doesnt do it full time he is pretty good, he does a much better job than some 'pros' I've seen.
Hi! After bed bb let down so many times I thought I would have a go at this myself- I did just have an accident though - whilst taking off skirting boards the crow bar bounced back and hurt my nose 😞 I just wanted to ask you about the ogee architrave - do you have Instagram where I can send a pic - I just want to ask if it needs to be close to hinge or there can be an inch gap 😬
Oh I'm sorry to hear that 😬 Are you ok? You'd typically leave between 5 and 10mm between the architrave and door frame, to show for the barrel on the hinge but by all means send me a photo - to charliediyte@gmail.com
@@CharlieDIYte oh thank you ! Yes I’m ok thanks - I get cry but that was because I was feeling sorry for myself but it hurt too 🙈
How do you measure the angle as not all frames are 90 degrees.
If the frame isn't 90 degrees, you could do what we do when we're constructing pelmet boards around bay windows, you could lay both pieces on top of each other (tacking them temporarily into place if necessary), and mark a pencil line on each piece where they meet on the external and internal angles. You can then join the two pencil marks up on each piece with a diagonal line, and that's where you need to cut.
WoodPrix is nice for that.
I would have have hung the door on the opposite side to open against the wall and moved the light switch.
When I was doing my farther in laws, he had removed the old ones and got the room plastered.
Unfortunately the new architraves would not sit flush where they meet - what would you do in this situation?
+ZlatanFan Tricky one. Are you saying that one architrave looks higher than the other where they meet at the angle? If so, I'm guessing that's because the plaster isn't completely level! If that is the case you'll need to get some medium eg 120 grade sand paper or similar and lightly sand the area that's stopping the architraves from meeting up properly. You could work out the areas that are too high by laying a spirit level, piece of wood or similar flat object around the door frame to see where it's rocking. If that's not the problem send me another comment.
For anyone else reading this and wondering, I've just come up against this very issue. On removal of my old facings I found that the plaster was proud of the door frame. Not an issue with the old facings as they met the plaster edge but the new ones are wider and so they sit on the higher plaster edge causing the facing to sit at an angle.
My solution, after searching online and finding it, is to use some MDF strip as near to the size of the plaster step as possible and basically use it as shim all the way round. For decorative purposes it's a good idea to leave a reveal the same size as your facing reveal between the MDF and the door frame. If that makes sense.
2:50 ouch! Do you mind not hitting us please?
Unless you have a perfectly square door frame a DIYer would struggle to get a decent join and there are not many that are 90 bob on.
Surely all architrave is to be thicker than skirting board rather than similar, no?
V T Interesting one. Yes in the sense that it certainly doesn't want to be thinner. I aim for mine to be flush but they typically end up a couple of mm proud of the skirting. When you buy skirting and architrave - particularly from the cheaper outlets, in my experience they tend to be the same depth but I may be wrong. What does anyone else think?
ace
what is wrong with the beautiful wood pattern and colour that everyone paints them. what the waste.