You're right about the air bladder. I was planning to push out a dented car door with it, but when i needed to remove and rehang a door i had a lightbulb moment. Much easier than faffing around with chisels
Perfect timing once again Charlie, I've just finished painting my bedroom doors and trying to work up the courage to have a go at hanging them! Thanks for the advice :)
I first started hanging doors using airbags about 7 years ago Total gamechanger, makes it so easy to adjust to line up the hinges. And I learned how to use the circular saw correctly by watching your vids 👍
I no longer use them, I use a clamp that lifts, it was expensive but I fit a lot of fire doors and you can use your foot to pump up the clamp, and a pivot for light doors, works out faster, it was expensive at about £115 from screwfix, but it’s useful for all kinds of lifting jobs.
Charlie, those self centring drill bits for hinges are magical. I used one for the first time last year on my new kitchen door, and I was blown away. No trial and error. No guesswork. Just perfectly centred hinge holes.
I really enjoyed the video, you packed a lot in. I prefer to use 3 hinges for all doors because it spreads their weight and helps to prevent warping. It could even help to unwarp your door. You can fit a parallel guide to your power planer to improve its 90° accuracy, especially when planing narrow wood.
Hi Charlie, Nice fix on your reclaimed door, like the brass wear, the hinges look strong and solid and will take the weight of the door no problem. Like your door purchase I do love reclamation yards. I use go to one about 20 miles away from me just over the border, just out side of Ellesmere in Shropshire, I got 3 reclaimed doors up stairs in my house. As always full of good tips and ideas, Take care
Nice job, well done. Agree, self centering drill bits are a game changer and yes you should fit the strips to the door shape and not before.... plus, top tip, chamfer the hinge side of the door, only slightly, but will stop any risk of the door binding up when painted.
Top tips. I'll definitely chamfer it. Not sure why I didn't fit the strip to the door. I think because it was a rebate rather than slamming strip I wanted to keep it parallel. But you'd never notice if it wasn't so I messed up there.
Nice work, Charlie. I used the very same latches on a job a few months ago and will happily use them again. Even with the delivery charge involved, I could not believe how affordable they are! Perfect for round door knobs. 👍
Well the start was great, lifting the door on your socks, so foot/toe protection, so much for safety, safety first, or second , or maybe none hehehehehe Next time you teach us about safety I will remind you, but just for the next 3 years though. Further more , job well done. Looks amazing and those old doors will last forever and are much better than the nowadays cheaper hollow doors especially at the corners Hope you will show the finishing results after a proper paint job in one of the next episodes. Thanks for sharing.
Good job with the door, the only thing i can say is when fitting good quality hinges the leaf with the most knuckles needs to be fitted to the frame or lining, and the side with the few less is to go on the door edge, it helps with weight.
Thanks Garry. Funnily enough that's the way I usually do it. These hinges are so over engineered though I don't think it really matters, but I agree better to be consistent.
Hi Charlie. That’s a very neat job while making use of a recycled door , I might have been tempted to remove the existing paint but fully appreciate your limited time frame . Kind regards as always 👍
Good job Charlie. Even though I won’t be hanging a door any time soon but it’s good to know how is done and understand the concept of getting things right. I do find how you resolving problem areas like filling in the old latch hole to reinforce the door and other bits & pieces very useful because there are lots of errands like these around my house which I love to tackle. Let’s face it, you can’t really call in a joiner or decorator to do so many “small” jobs. I look forward to your next vid on your Victorian door treatment. Which method you choose to remove the multi layers of paint, prepping and painting. That’s because I hove those doors too, awaiting TLC.😆
2nd comment on the vid lol: A cabinet painter for a v.expensive kitchen company advise I use car filler, (e.g bondo) instead of 2-part wood filler and to be honest, it really is soo much better. I've totally switched to that now. I get I much better finish with that.
@@ricdontap1 Honestly, I went to Halford and bought whatever they had. Which was Isopan p.38 and it's worked great. It smelt and worked identical to other car body filler I've used in the past (on cars) so tbh I think they might all be the same.
Not door related, but seeing your stud wall in the video, dad always said, nog the bottom and top between the verticals. That way you have somewhere to attach the skirting and any coving to. Then, it does not rely on plasterboard anchors. Can nail gun it in. On the door front, a trend jig is a game changer. DIYer and got it down to 30mins a door to hang single handed. A door mortise jig was also a game canger for fitting locks. Basically a clamp that fits the door with a router bit on a shaft you fit a drill too.
Thanks for that. Thing is though the vertical studs in that wall gave me ample fixings for the skirtings and I would have thought any coving if you weren't gluing it. 🤔
When using a router, use the hinge to set the depth, don't need to eye anything. Set the router on a hard surface. Push the router down, so the bit touches the hard surface. Put the hinge under the depth stop, against the stops stop. Lower the depth stop to touch the hinge. Ta da.
Neat point but that doesn't work on the heavy duty hinges I used with that door because the barrel of the hinge projects either side of the leaf so the barrel would get in the way. The hinge in the photo is the lighter duty one which you could flip on it's back to do what you're suggesting.
Charlie hey mate brilliant videos fantastic to be honest , im using multiboard magnesium board 6mm as ceiling boards before i tape them and build it up with plaster/compound. reason being the old plaster boards ceiling board are 6mm and couldn't find any plasterboard that size, i have read that it has to be an acrylic based pimer that should be applied bostik 918 im kinda sure they mean if im painting straight on , Larsen ac primer ,does this apply as a plasters primer as well bonding /hard coat /filler , what would you use on it.also I see different people telling me to put the rough side out but manufacturers say the light side for decorating/plastering
I wouldn't say I've gone full Skil but I was curious to see what they were like (you know me and my tools 😉) and had an opportunity to try a few out last year (around July I think) and actually I've been very impressed.
It's a tricky one because you need to leave a credit card sized gap which if the door is true will give you rattle room. My door is slightly warped which gives it a natural brace against rattling. I guess if it's painted you just need to get it as tight as possible. Lip stick on the latch end - turn the handle, shut the door to where you want it and release the latch. It'll leave a mark exactly where you need to locate the strike plate.
Another great video. I have hung doors in the past that have taken hours and hours and were ok-ish.....now realise they were pretty good considering the tools I had available. Those little extras really do make a difference it would seem to a much better and easier job. Can you provide a link to the self centering drill bits? Cheers
Thanks. The link is now there, sorry about that. The snappy quick release bit isn't really necessary so I'd be inclined to go for the ones in the second link. Yes certain tools - circular saw, router, electric planer, the drill bits and air wedges are for me essential these days with like you I've used a fraction of them in the past. Makes the job so much easier though.
Hi Charlie, my chisels are a bit like yours. Blunt but good with a little work. I'd love to see a sharpening video, most other videos are USA based so the tools aren't always available globally at a reasonable price.
Thanks James, I did but I've never actually done a chisel sharpening video. Problem is the experts would wade in and tell me I'd done it wrong 🤣 but maybe my DIY perspective would win the day.
@@CharlieDIYte crikey that was 6 years ago now! Yes I think it would be worth a video too, although I think you’re right to worry about criticism from the woodworking community (with micro bevels and mirror polishing!). I suppose the diy reality test is “can I make a clean cut for this hinge”. I managed to hit a hidden trim nail with mine the other day and it did cross my mind if you had done a video and not much came to mind so it remains blunt! Hope you’re doing well as always
I know what you mean about the chisel sharpening vids mostly being for the American audience. That being said I bought an Axminster wet stone sharpening machine a couple of years ago. It’s very effective, when used regularly. Strangely my chisels are still a bit on the blunt side. 🤷♂️ not helpful as I was also hanging doors yesterday!
Those doors look heavy, I would have gone for three hinges rather than just the two. The little lug inside the keep/strike plate you can bend slightly with a flat end screwdriver if there’s any wobble in the door when it closes
Thanks Andy. I have bent that lug. Forgot to mention it on the vid 👌 Yes I thought about 3 hinges but those beasts are good up to 60kg and I reckon the doors about 25 or so, so should be ok.
Door looks good, I'm an engineer and have used the air bags at work to lift heavy dc motors into the correct position + +. Can't find the self centring drill bits on your page??
Sorry Simon. I'll stick them on now. They're now there. The ones I have with the snappy quick release bit (which isn't really necessary) are a slightly different bit size to the set that doesn't include the quick release bit.
Haha the old reclaimed door wrangle. Without naming names, somebody once took my 1981mm measurement and procured a door that was 1891... Inhave a trio of router jigs for tge door in my house which all needed doing. First one is to router a cutput where tye old hinges are amd i have a quantity of timber blanks cut to size ready to go. Second a hinge jig fornthe door, and third a hunge jig for the frame. The frame jig isore fiddly as it seeos to avoid architrave, proud plaser, stops and everything else that seeks tobget in the way. Make from thinnish material sontuebrouter olunge depth can still reach. Trend do a long cutter with a double bearing guide whuch is in the pro range but normal £ as it's quite small. Also if the door is futted priir tontye stops it is possible tobuse thebcredit card spacers to ppace the stops againt thebdoor and not the other way around - depends on whether you have linings or frames. No jeed to glue the stops on; 16/18 guage pons and paint works fine. As always thanks for the content 👍
When possible I fit the door liner to the door rather than the door to the frame. Hang the door on one side of the frame and liner then make the rest of the liner to fit the door. One summer I decided to replace the old steel hinges on all the doors in my house with new stainless steel ones. The first two doors took all day (and still need adjustment). Then I found air wedges, better quality screws and sets of shims rather than bits of fag packet that was in the old hinges. The rest of the doors were taking me less than half an hour each.
It's a fair point. I'm harbouring the hope though that I can get the door to unwarp. I didn't really want to set the stop asquew to the frame just in the interest of getting a flush fit. Maybe I'm wrong.
do swap out those nasty looking pozidrive screws for some really nice brass slotted screws. If you do go ahead and do this, wipe some beeswax on the screw thread. They will go in much easier (ratchet screwdriver recommended).
Why Why do you use the narrow side of the sole plate of the saw every time, then worry about the cut being square!! Rg saw blade is offset, use the widest part of the sole plate!!
I know. I did try and use the wide side. But I was determined to keep it low fi as not everyone has a track saw, and using the other side the motor on the saw clashed with the spirit level.
Doors just shouldn't be made out of cardboard, it's only a relatively short time before they become landfill, much better to get something from back in the day when things were made to last. Also saves the old door from going to landfill and stops a new cardboard door being manufactured. :)
@@sandrinakeffufal6008 That's the way the world is going. MDF and compressed cardboard,chipboard, cheap veneer, OSB board. Stairs made from chipboard. Not for me.
Offer up doesn't mean what you think. It means giving away as offering, typically to a deity. So unless you've sacrificed your door multiple times in the video 🤣 what you meant is "present" or "align", but not "offer up". And don't copy RagnBrown 😉
What? 😉 Ok, I'm offering up the door to the deity that is the door frame. I don't know what I've copied of Keith's but he's a mate and lovely guy so I'm sure he won't mind. I've just mentioned this to him. If it's a video of his, I haven't watched it, and the thumb was my wife's idea, so not guilty as charged.
@@CharlieDIYte ah ah no, what you've copied from him is "offer up"... he keeps saying that, there's at least one "offer up" in every video. And like I said it's a false friend, it doesn't mean what you guys think it means, even though it probably should. I've already emailed him once about that and... he didn't reply. What a let down.
You're right about the air bladder. I was planning to push out a dented car door with it, but when i needed to remove and rehang a door i had a lightbulb moment. Much easier than faffing around with chisels
Better entertainment than any soap or drama, great job
Cheers Stuart. I think the channel needs to go more down that route 😉👊
Perfect timing once again Charlie, I've just finished painting my bedroom doors and trying to work up the courage to have a go at hanging them! Thanks for the advice :)
Thanks, I appreciate the comment. Good luck with the hanging. A bit of careful planning and the right tools and it'll be a breeze 👌
I first started hanging doors using airbags about 7 years ago
Total gamechanger, makes it so easy to adjust to line up the hinges.
And I learned how to use the circular saw correctly by watching your vids 👍
I no longer use them, I use a clamp that lifts, it was expensive but I fit a lot of fire doors and you can use your foot to pump up the clamp, and a pivot for light doors, works out faster, it was expensive at about £115 from screwfix, but it’s useful for all kinds of lifting jobs.
Charlie, those self centring drill bits for hinges are magical. I used one for the first time last year on my new kitchen door, and I was blown away. No trial and error. No guesswork. Just perfectly centred hinge holes.
They're awesome aren't they 👌
I really enjoyed the video, you packed a lot in. I prefer to use 3 hinges for all doors because it spreads their weight and helps to prevent warping. It could even help to unwarp your door. You can fit a parallel guide to your power planer to improve its 90° accuracy, especially when planing narrow wood.
Excellent video, self centering drillbits are a great bit of kit.
Thanks Pat. They're awesome aren't they 👌
Those doors were beautiful and well fitted. I am considering buying some when I renovate my current house. 👍
Thanks. It's worth the effort as it restores the character that was ripped out in the '70s
Hi Charlie, Nice fix on your reclaimed door, like the brass wear, the hinges look strong and solid and will take the weight of the door no problem. Like your door purchase I do love reclamation yards. I use go to one about 20 miles away from me just over the border, just out side of Ellesmere in Shropshire, I got 3 reclaimed doors up stairs in my house.
As always full of good tips and ideas, Take care
Brilliant video as always, inspirational Charlie
Nice job, well done. Agree, self centering drill bits are a game changer and yes you should fit the strips to the door shape and not before.... plus, top tip, chamfer the hinge side of the door, only slightly, but will stop any risk of the door binding up when painted.
Top tips. I'll definitely chamfer it. Not sure why I didn't fit the strip to the door. I think because it was a rebate rather than slamming strip I wanted to keep it parallel. But you'd never notice if it wasn't so I messed up there.
Charlie your video thumbnails crack me up 😂👍
thanks charlie
excellent thumbnail! :)
Great video Charlie, well done👍
Thanks 👊
Nice work, Charlie. I used the very same latches on a job a few months ago and will happily use them again. Even with the delivery charge involved, I could not believe how affordable they are! Perfect for round door knobs. 👍
Thanks. They're great, aren't they!
you can still use the router to cut out for strike plate by extending the router bit and using the door slam strip. Just a bit more fiddly
Yep I thought about that, maybe with a strip under it to balance the router bed, but I couldn't be bothered 😉
Hope you are planning a video on the banquette seating as that's a project I'm also mulling over at the moment 👍
Yes definitely. Can't wait to get started on it.
Nice perfect job👍After painting will lasts ages, strong solid doors, much better as mdf ones😏
Thanks. Yes looking forward to getting them painted.
Well the start was great, lifting the door on your socks, so foot/toe protection, so much for safety, safety first, or second , or maybe none hehehehehe
Next time you teach us about safety I will remind you, but just for the next 3 years though.
Further more , job well done.
Looks amazing and those old doors will last forever and are much better than the nowadays cheaper hollow doors especially at the corners
Hope you will show the finishing results after a proper paint job in one of the next episodes.
Thanks for sharing.
Did I 🤦🤣 What was I thinking? I'll never learn 😉 Thanks though and good to hear from you.
Good job with the door, the only thing i can say is when fitting good quality hinges the leaf with the most knuckles needs to be fitted to the frame or lining, and the side with the few less is to go on the door edge, it helps with weight.
Thanks Garry. Funnily enough that's the way I usually do it. These hinges are so over engineered though I don't think it really matters, but I agree better to be consistent.
"most to the post.", as they say.
Hi Charlie. That’s a very neat job while making use of a recycled door , I might have been tempted to remove the existing paint but fully appreciate your limited time frame . Kind regards as always 👍
Good job Charlie. Even though I won’t be hanging a door any time soon but it’s good to know how is done and understand the concept of getting things right. I do find how you resolving problem areas like filling in the old latch hole to reinforce the door and other bits & pieces very useful because there are lots of errands like these around my house which I love to tackle. Let’s face it, you can’t really call in a joiner or decorator to do so many “small” jobs. I look forward to your next vid on your Victorian door treatment. Which method you choose to remove the multi layers of paint, prepping and painting. That’s because I hove those doors too, awaiting TLC.😆
2nd comment on the vid lol: A cabinet painter for a v.expensive kitchen company advise I use car filler, (e.g bondo) instead of 2-part wood filler and to be honest, it really is soo much better. I've totally switched to that now. I get I much better finish with that.
Yes a few people have said that over the years. I do have some so I'll have to do a comparison.
WHAT BRAND THERE SEEM TO BE HUNDREDS ON AMAZON
@@ricdontap1 Honestly, I went to Halford and bought whatever they had. Which was Isopan p.38 and it's worked great. It smelt and worked identical to other car body filler I've used in the past (on cars) so tbh I think they might all be the same.
@@sackville_bagginsess Does it even work in your damp little hobbit hole?
@@ricdontap1 I'd definitely say so. It's designed for car body work, outside in the rain.
What is the name of the glue you used in the video please ? Great step by step vid as always 👍🏻
Hanging doors properly is a very skilled job. You did it like a pro. Great video! Thank you Charlie!
I agree! I hired a joiner and even he cocked it up on most of the doors
Really appreciate that. Thanks so much 🙏👊
He done a great job for a non pro, but as a pro myself he didn't do it like a pro.
Charlie did you know you can use erbauer 18v batteries on your skil 20v tools mate..just incase you didn't know 👍
Not door related, but seeing your stud wall in the video, dad always said, nog the bottom and top between the verticals. That way you have somewhere to attach the skirting and any coving to. Then, it does not rely on plasterboard anchors. Can nail gun it in. On the door front, a trend jig is a game changer. DIYer and got it down to 30mins a door to hang single handed. A door mortise jig was also a game canger for fitting locks. Basically a clamp that fits the door with a router bit on a shaft you fit a drill too.
Thanks for that. Thing is though the vertical studs in that wall gave me ample fixings for the skirtings and I would have thought any coving if you weren't gluing it. 🤔
When using a router, use the hinge to set the depth, don't need to eye anything.
Set the router on a hard surface.
Push the router down, so the bit touches the hard surface.
Put the hinge under the depth stop, against the stops stop.
Lower the depth stop to touch the hinge.
Ta da.
Neat point but that doesn't work on the heavy duty hinges I used with that door because the barrel of the hinge projects either side of the leaf so the barrel would get in the way. The hinge in the photo is the lighter duty one which you could flip on it's back to do what you're suggesting.
👍👍👍. Thank you Charlie
Cheers Pete 👊
Charlie hey mate brilliant videos fantastic to be honest , im using multiboard magnesium board 6mm as ceiling boards before i tape them and build it up with plaster/compound. reason being the old plaster boards ceiling board are 6mm and couldn't find any plasterboard that size, i have read that it has to be an acrylic based pimer that should be applied bostik 918 im kinda sure they mean if im painting straight on , Larsen ac primer ,does this apply as a plasters primer as well bonding /hard coat /filler , what would you use on it.also I see different people telling me to put the rough side out but manufacturers say the light side for decorating/plastering
well done charlie for making thousands on youtube :)
Sorry Tim, don't quite understand that. It's a tough gig this, I tell you!
Charlie when did you go full Skil?
I wouldn't say I've gone full Skil but I was curious to see what they were like (you know me and my tools 😉) and had an opportunity to try a few out last year (around July I think) and actually I've been very impressed.
Can I ask what 2 part filler you are using?
Whenever I fit a door latch, it rattles on windy days. Any tips on locating the strike plate?
It's a tricky one because you need to leave a credit card sized gap which if the door is true will give you rattle room. My door is slightly warped which gives it a natural brace against rattling. I guess if it's painted you just need to get it as tight as possible. Lip stick on the latch end - turn the handle, shut the door to where you want it and release the latch. It'll leave a mark exactly where you need to locate the strike plate.
Another great video. I have hung doors in the past that have taken hours and hours and were ok-ish.....now realise they were pretty good considering the tools I had available. Those little extras really do make a difference it would seem to a much better and easier job. Can you provide a link to the self centering drill bits? Cheers
Thanks. The link is now there, sorry about that. The snappy quick release bit isn't really necessary so I'd be inclined to go for the ones in the second link. Yes certain tools - circular saw, router, electric planer, the drill bits and air wedges are for me essential these days with like you I've used a fraction of them in the past. Makes the job so much easier though.
Hi Charlie. You have a hole in the mantelpiece with something white in it... curiosity is getting the better of me 😏 what is it please? Thanks 👍🏻
Matches to light the log burner with 😉
@@CharlieDIYte genius! Thank you 😁
I learned of the existence of the Robertson head screw
@6:02 any chance you can tell me the exact green paint or there abouts used at the timestamp? cheers.
The colour is Farrow and Ball Studio Green although I don't know what the exact paint was that my kitchen maker used.
Hi Charlie, my chisels are a bit like yours. Blunt but good with a little work. I'd love to see a sharpening video, most other videos are USA based so the tools aren't always available globally at a reasonable price.
I think he did a knife sharpening video a few years ago where chisels were mentioned
I must do one. I've got a very nice set from Axminster - a decent diamond stone is light years better than the oil stone that I grew up using. 👊
Thanks James, I did but I've never actually done a chisel sharpening video. Problem is the experts would wade in and tell me I'd done it wrong 🤣 but maybe my DIY perspective would win the day.
@@CharlieDIYte crikey that was 6 years ago now! Yes I think it would be worth a video too, although I think you’re right to worry about criticism from the woodworking community (with micro bevels and mirror polishing!). I suppose the diy reality test is “can I make a clean cut for this hinge”. I managed to hit a hidden trim nail with mine the other day and it did cross my mind if you had done a video and not much came to mind so it remains blunt! Hope you’re doing well as always
I know what you mean about the chisel sharpening vids mostly being for the American audience. That being said I bought an Axminster wet stone sharpening machine a couple of years ago. It’s very effective, when used regularly. Strangely my chisels are still a bit on the blunt side. 🤷♂️ not helpful as I was also hanging doors yesterday!
Nooice!
Cheers mate 👌
Those doors look heavy, I would have gone for three hinges rather than just the two. The little lug inside the keep/strike plate you can bend slightly with a flat end screwdriver if there’s any wobble in the door when it closes
Thanks Andy. I have bent that lug. Forgot to mention it on the vid 👌 Yes I thought about 3 hinges but those beasts are good up to 60kg and I reckon the doors about 25 or so, so should be ok.
Door looks good, I'm an engineer and have used the air bags at work to lift heavy dc motors into the correct position + +. Can't find the self centring drill bits on your page??
Sorry Simon. I'll stick them on now. They're now there. The ones I have with the snappy quick release bit (which isn't really necessary) are a slightly different bit size to the set that doesn't include the quick release bit.
@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie for a quick response 👍
Haha the old reclaimed door wrangle. Without naming names, somebody once took my 1981mm measurement and procured a door that was 1891...
Inhave a trio of router jigs for tge door in my house which all needed doing. First one is to router a cutput where tye old hinges are amd i have a quantity of timber blanks cut to size ready to go. Second a hinge jig fornthe door, and third a hunge jig for the frame. The frame jig isore fiddly as it seeos to avoid architrave, proud plaser, stops and everything else that seeks tobget in the way. Make from thinnish material sontuebrouter olunge depth can still reach. Trend do a long cutter with a double bearing guide whuch is in the pro range but normal £ as it's quite small. Also if the door is futted priir tontye stops it is possible tobuse thebcredit card spacers to ppace the stops againt thebdoor and not the other way around - depends on whether you have linings or frames. No jeed to glue the stops on; 16/18 guage pons and paint works fine.
As always thanks for the content 👍
Nice warts and all review. Helps when I think only I make cock ups.
When possible I fit the door liner to the door rather than the door to the frame. Hang the door on one side of the frame and liner then make the rest of the liner to fit the door. One summer I decided to replace the old steel hinges on all the doors in my house with new stainless steel ones. The first two doors took all day (and still need adjustment). Then I found air wedges, better quality screws and sets of shims rather than bits of fag packet that was in the old hinges. The rest of the doors were taking me less than half an hour each.
It's a fair point. I'm harbouring the hope though that I can get the door to unwarp. I didn't really want to set the stop asquew to the frame just in the interest of getting a flush fit. Maybe I'm wrong.
wheres link to tracer pencil ?
So sorry. It's there now. The mad marathon to get these things uploaded - things fall between the stools
do swap out those nasty looking pozidrive screws for some really nice brass slotted screws. If you do go ahead and do this, wipe some beeswax on the screw thread. They will go in much easier (ratchet screwdriver recommended).
Thanks Clive. Yes they look awful don't they. Disappointing that Ironmongery Direct supply them with that.
@ I agree. They do it for budgetary reasons I’m sure.
Hmmm, ironmongerydirect has crashed....or just doesnt work
Keep trying. I've never known it go down.
7:47 Can't see the Tracer pencil link down below... the one time I actually want something from a TH-camr! Or am I going blind???
So sorry. It's there now. The mad marathon to get these things uploaded - things fall between the stools
So sorry. It's there now. 😪😉
Why Why do you use the narrow side of the sole plate of the saw every time, then worry about the cut being square!! Rg saw blade is offset, use the widest part of the sole plate!!
I know. I did try and use the wide side. But I was determined to keep it low fi as not everyone has a track saw, and using the other side the motor on the saw clashed with the spirit level.
Why not square up the frame rather than un-squaring the door - a bit of a bodge short cut.
Too big a job and they're are much greater priorities on the list and it's part of the fabric of the house - I quite like the quirks of the old place.
Why bother when there are so many beautiful compressed cardboard doors that look Victorian.
Trouble is, I've got those everywhere, installed in the '70s and they're awful.
@@CharlieDIYte How true but they are cheap.
Doors just shouldn't be made out of cardboard, it's only a relatively short time before they become landfill, much better to get something from back in the day when things were made to last. Also saves the old door from going to landfill and stops a new cardboard door being manufactured. :)
@@sandrinakeffufal6008 That's the way the world is going. MDF and compressed cardboard,chipboard, cheap veneer, OSB board. Stairs made from chipboard. Not for me.
Offer up doesn't mean what you think. It means giving away as offering, typically to a deity.
So unless you've sacrificed your door multiple times in the video 🤣 what you meant is "present" or "align", but not "offer up".
And don't copy RagnBrown 😉
What? 😉 Ok, I'm offering up the door to the deity that is the door frame. I don't know what I've copied of Keith's but he's a mate and lovely guy so I'm sure he won't mind. I've just mentioned this to him. If it's a video of his, I haven't watched it, and the thumb was my wife's idea, so not guilty as charged.
@@CharlieDIYte ah ah no, what you've copied from him is "offer up"... he keeps saying that, there's at least one "offer up" in every video. And like I said it's a false friend, it doesn't mean what you guys think it means, even though it probably should.
I've already emailed him once about that and... he didn't reply. What a let down.
Very nice brass hinges,i would have used slotted brass screws and lined them up vertically.
I guess. It came with those so I thought I'd use them as I don't have slotted brass
No to slotted screws for anything, it's too easy for the screwdriver to slip and damage your work, the lovely brass hinges in this case.