You have convinced me to convert my 20+ year old mountain bikes to e-bikes. Your service in ordering all of the parts I needed to complete my project bikes has been absolutely superb.
I find it odd how some e-bike makers will use a WAY more expensive lighter weaker carbon fiber frame to save 1 lb on an e-bike when it'd be better to a use a much stronger & cheaper 4130 chrome molly frame that's 1 or 2 pounds heavier. You're adding a heavy motor & battery pack, so using an expensive $1,500 only 1 lb lighter weaker carbon fiber frame isn't going to make any noticeable weight savings difference. Like this Schwinn Axum aluminum frame in this video will be toast in a good crash but at least it's way cheaper than a CF frame.
I follow you because you're the boss. Your advice solid. I don't know if you remember me. I'm the now 63 yo who has bum right leg. I finally found full suspension, step through, fat tire and cargo. The A2B. I paid $300 non working condition with plans to install my bbs02 and 48v battery. But, things never go exactly as planned. Before I found the A2B, I bought a 24" full suspension Wal-Mart bike called Bella. What I didn't realize is that the Bella fit all my needs. 3 things I had to do to my Bella. 1st . Keep seat low and learn to lift leg over rear tire instead of bar. However, this means no rear rack, only front basket. A compromise. 2nd Single gear, removed cable and modified selector to serve more as tensioner. I ride off side of highway so basically I'm trailing and I love it. The need to mod was grass messing up selector. 3. I shortened crank length about 2 inches. Because the 24" close to ground and pedals kept bottoming out, especially side of hills. The crank reduction massive improvement . Additionally allows me to contribute more. I love the bike now. She be sweet beach. Now I still got the A2B It has other suddle complications. The tires. 20" x 3" . And their nearly bald, no knobbies. The Bella I can get tires for easy. The 20x3 rare as hens teeth. I use to own an Lectric XP step through with 20x4. What I found was performance issues. I found the 24x2? just as capable. The fat tire craze is fake to me because it's really about suspension. Soft sand is just not that frequent to justify 4" fatty. So I am left with modifying the A2B to adapt to standard size tire. 4" fatty are more available than 3" , but dang expensive. Thinner is a whole other ball of wax. Spacers, welding, adapters. Haven't worked it out mentally yet, been enjoying my Bella. Another thing. The concerns over disc brakes is over rated. I honestly find calipers adequate. Disc are better but more money. The A2B has great cargo rack and great suspension. One day... Btw, I keep hoping you'll do some full suspension mountain/trail bikes.
Johnny is da man. He set me up for my commuter here in WI. Schedule your consultation session with him on his website and have the conversation. He will listen and then tell you what you need. Support the small businessman and buy from him. You will not regret it.
Just a tip. It seems that the 40T Lekkie chainring will fit the standard Bafang motor cover with some modification. If you ever get to read this, it offers more offset options. The new 40T Pro chainring is good for 12sp derailleurs. Just saying.
1 of my favorite big box bikes with my favorite mid-drive. I like all your builds but this is one is special because I almost did the same for myself. I already have a converted MTB so I'm doing a Dolomite ALX instead.
Hey Johnny, Building this bike. Bought the Axum DP at Walmart for $440. before I saw your awesome video. The medium frame on the DP fits me better than the large frame on the standard Axum. Someone told me the rear hub is too weak on this bike for a Bafang mid-drive. Time will tell. Thanks!
I am in the process of doing this build! The only difference is that I've replaced the mechanical brakes with the Hydraulic Shimano Mt-200's, replaced the stock forks with RockShox Recon suspension forks, Shimano quick-release front, and NukeProof precision bearing headset parts. I was thinking about having the local machine shop weld in the Bafang Ultra M620 bracket to the frame. What are your thoughts on using that mid-drive instead? I also contacted Schwinn for the paint code from Y.S. paints in Taiwan.
Lol. Funny and exciting. Going to schedule a session with you in a couple weeks for my setup. Just had a baby yesterday so little delayed but a good delay. Lol.
There is one more thing. Why do you continue to place the gear shift sensor near the derailleur. You could put it adjacent to the shifter with a 50mm outer cable and fit the same to the brake sensor. Less chance of a shock-induced cutoff. Just thoughts.
I have both. 3 hub motor bikes and 3 mid drive bikes. The mid drives are so much more powerful of course. But the hub motors have 2 "pros". 1. There is no drive train wear and tear at all. 2. Much lighter, although the weight isn't centered.
What wattage are the Hub Motor bikes? I notice all the high power e-bikes/e-motorcycle all use large high wattage hub motors. I figured someone would make a high power mid drive unit and make/use larger gears & chain.
Still looking for a decent step-through or low step bike with front suspension to mod for my wife. Most hybrid bikes with step through frames have rigid forks.
My free wheel broke miles into a trail. My hub motor got me home. Hub motors dont need a chain. Fir that reason alone they are a better option. Walk your bike several miles and youll see what I mean. That said, I have been thinking about buying this bike and doing a middrive. Just seens to make sense for this bike.
A great reason to not put hub motors is limited options when it comes to disc brakes. Found that out this week. Also you are running short on BBS02's and Cyclones.
That ones pretty good, thats sort of like what im thinking of making next for taking to places that bikes usually cant get to due to fences. I wonder how long it takes to remove and reinstall that battery though for lifting over obstacles and swapping with an identical second battery in a backpack ? thats an important element of my next design.
This is exactly what I want to build. I'm curious though. Is there a speed or circumstance in which a hub motor is more efficient than the mid drive? I'm wanting to build an extreme range bike and maybe use the mid drive to get up to speed and hub to maintain.
Any efficiency would be lost by the added weight/drag of a second system. There is a point where a hub motor is arguably more efficient, but it would be a very small part of the power curve. This is all dependent on the types of motors we are talking about though. They are not all designed the same (gear ratios mainly)
I wonder how much this exact build would cost to make it seems amazing (I already have a couple converted bikes that are mid drive but they were built by area 13)
If the crank is hitting the chain stay, it’s because too many spacers were used. The crank did not hit on this conversion. I actually never pedal as to show what the motor is capable of. 😀
Johnnynurdout rules. / 29” ers rule. /. Mid drives rule. I need a mid drive bike to rule the world 🌎. “. To much “ thanks Johnny for the info. You RULE
Have you ever separated a rear cassette and shimmed it over into proper chainline, so as to utilize a 36 tooth chainring? If so have you had any issues?
How did you mount the 68mm motor on the axum? I hear the chainstay hits the motor housing not allowing it to go all the way in and left crank hits chainstay. I bought a axum and want to install a 750w 68mm, but am nervous on fitment. Any help appreciated.
What will it take for mid drives to become much more accessible to people not willing to pay thousands of dollars for a big brand name bike? I think 250-350watt mid drives are the answer? What say you Johnny?
Damnit . Now RJ The Bike Guy and you are at the top of my YT recommendations. I just wanted to see how to adjust V Brakes and WTF the difference was between an electric bicycle and an electric moped. 😢🔫
That Battery looks Small in Diameter Can You Tell Me The Diameter?? Planning To Do A Convertion On A Mongoose Ardor X1 27.5 And I Don't Have That Much Room..
not showing the left crank install was smart as the stock cranks from BAFANG is not compatible with the 68-73mm BAFANG! Why not show your source for the left crank?
I would need one just like that. Do you sell it, can I build it, should I build it? What specific videos can give me a list of parts to buy, assembly instructions to build? I am ready...
@@JohnnyNerdOut I have an Axum DP and I'm thinking about duplicating this conversion. Do you have a kit or parts list for this installation with pricing? the only difference between the Axum you converted and mine is mine has hydraulic brakes. I'm looking to end up with an ebike that climbs like a mountain goat while carrying my 6'1" 270lbs. That's why I asked about the big chainring, I'm looking for as much torque as I can get! It doesn't matter to me if top end is 15-20mph as long as it climbs like a beast!
@@JohnnyNerdOut Brother you were right as rain, I had doubts that the BBS02B mid drive would be any stronger than my 1000w hub drive e-bike but I was wrong, and you were right! My Schwinn Axum DP is now a killer climber and thanks to the use of my gears it still tops out north of 30. Thank you so much for sharing your experience through your videos!
Very amusing bash on hub motors! Hub motor fans beware! Johnny, safe to assume you are on the biggest rear sprocket when you do the stand still hill test?
Hi Johnny!!! New subscriber here... i just wanna know if Hiland 24",4" fat kid bike i recently found in amazon can be converted to e-bike? Thanks in advance for the reply...
@@JohnnyNerdOut 🤣 only it said its the new one when I bought it thank you J, I can't wait till I get my mountain bike built after riding my fat tyre bike it will be a welcome change 😉 👍🏾
I’ve been looking at fat tire bikes much more recently as the only fat tire thing I’ve owned was a scooter solid wheel which was cool, but of course you can’t peddle, so that kills the functionality of transportation when it becomes necessary. 🙁
How much do you pay for bikes before you convert them. I pay up to £25 to £40 For a bike in the same quality as the one in the video. The customers appreciate it when they save £600
The Schwinn Axum,Taff & Boundary's are good bang for the buck dept. store bikes, if you can find one on sale. Same with some of the Mongoose bikes..... MTN bike prices are joke, obviously a $6,000 MTN bike is going to be way better than a $250 Schwinn Boundary bike but it's still nowhere near $5,750 better. If people would quit paying stupid prices for MTN bikes. Sellers would drop their prices and still be able to make profits. They'd probably make more profits by selling/moving more units if they dropped prices. Most people won't buy a $6,000 MTN bike but would consider the same bike at $2,000.. Especially when they see it's way better than a $400 Dept store bike but not crazy $6,000 priced. The price markup is insane, example, way more goes into making a Felt Fake motorized bike frame that can be bought for under $200 VS $1,500 for some name brand 6061 aluminum MTN bike frames.
The most cheapest 1000w direct drive hub motor you can buy. Does 37 mph top speed with 52v battery park. Have you actually tested direct drive hub motors. They have a lot of options and features. What you said they didn't have. In another videos 1 time you said couldn't program hub motors. Actually there is more options can do on direct drive hub Motors than mid drives systems I build high powered mid drive systems & direct drive hub motors & freewheel hub motors E-Bikes. So I know the difference.
I'm a fan of hub motors but typically not as powerful as mid-drive because the power isn't scaled through the gears that is definitely an advantage of mid-drive but really you don't need professional installation of hub motors its much more simple so you can save a lot of money plus you get the benefits of long term reliability and reduced drivetrain wear. I'd never have a e-mountain bike fitted with a hub motor because it would be the wrong choice but then I wouldn't ever have a commuting or touring ebike with a mid-drive motor. However I think Johnny needs to do a custom mid-drive vs shop bought mid-drive ebike (Bosch etc) because there are a lot of important differences there. I just don't think its fair to just lump mid-drive all together. I've seen comments where custom mid-drive ebikes are just lumped with the high end very proprietary mid-drive motor ebikes. Grin technology just released a video about renovating a old hub motor ebike, I think its like 15 years old and done many thousands of miles and the renovation was really just bearings and one tiny component which he admitted he didn't have to replace it was just a loose leg. That's the reliability of hub motors that you will never ever get with mid-drive. I have no problem with Johnny being pro mid-drive his whole business is based around it. Different people see the different benefits of each system either as more important or less important. The vast majority of ebikes in the world are hub based which admittedly is down to pricing.
@@darrylrowe4804 If you are grossly unfit and just don't want to put any effort into pedalling I can see your point but hub drives makes hills probably 3x easier compared to standard bikes where as perhaps the most powerful mid-drive motors maybe 5x easier. If you are off-road going up steep embankments fair enough mid-drives rule but where I live roads don't have 40% inclines. Hub motors are about 30-45Nm where as mid-drive maybe 60-95Nm however there is a small amount of power loss in the chain with mid-drive and with mid-drive the power is scaled through the gears so on some more commuter based ebikes with mid-drive the gearing is not particularly low and the mid-drive motors are far less powerful around 60Nm so many of those are actually worse for climbing hills than many hub drive ebikes. There is definitely an overlap in power between the two. Some mid-drive ebikes don't have a 1:1 gear ratio or even lower than that so what the motor produces is less at the rear wheel especially with the chain power loss. Also remember hub drives deliver their full power in all gears so they can have a much more nippy feel than mid-drive away from the hills so they can feel more powerful away from the hills. To be honest though for me its about the engineering simplicity and long term reliability and value than makes hub motors so appealing which I'm happy to accept slightly less hill climbing performance to get. I want a reliable ebike for long riding sessions over many hours. Even if the chain breaks I can still get home by turning the pedals and letting the motor do all the work, not that the chain would break of course because the hub motor takes a huge amount of load off the drivetrain so the drivetrain wears much, much slower and is less likely to have any issues.
You have convinced me to convert my 20+ year old mountain bikes to e-bikes. Your service in ordering all of the parts I needed to complete my project bikes has been absolutely superb.
I find it odd how some e-bike makers will use a WAY more expensive lighter weaker carbon fiber frame to save 1 lb on an e-bike when it'd be better to a use a much stronger & cheaper 4130 chrome molly frame that's 1 or 2 pounds heavier. You're adding a heavy motor & battery pack, so using an expensive $1,500 only 1 lb lighter weaker carbon fiber frame isn't going to make any noticeable weight savings difference. Like this Schwinn Axum aluminum frame in this video will be toast in a good crash but at least it's way cheaper than a CF frame.
I did the same about 2 months ago. Enjoyed working with Johnny. Love the bike. Put on panniers and use it around town instead of the car! Excellent!
I follow you because you're the boss. Your advice solid. I don't know if you remember me. I'm the now 63 yo who has bum right leg. I finally found full suspension, step through, fat tire and cargo. The A2B. I paid $300 non working condition with plans to install my bbs02 and 48v battery. But, things never go exactly as planned. Before I found the A2B, I bought a 24" full suspension Wal-Mart bike called Bella. What I didn't realize is that the Bella fit all my needs. 3 things I had to do to my Bella. 1st . Keep seat low and learn to lift leg over rear tire instead of bar. However, this means no rear rack, only front basket. A compromise. 2nd Single gear, removed cable and modified selector to serve more as tensioner. I ride off side of highway so basically I'm trailing and I love it. The need to mod was grass messing up selector. 3. I shortened crank length about 2 inches. Because the 24" close to ground and pedals kept bottoming out, especially side of hills. The crank reduction massive improvement . Additionally allows me to contribute more. I love the bike now. She be sweet beach. Now I still got the A2B It has other suddle complications. The tires. 20" x 3" . And their nearly bald, no knobbies. The Bella I can get tires for easy. The 20x3 rare as hens teeth. I use to own an Lectric XP step through with 20x4. What I found was performance issues. I found the 24x2? just as capable. The fat tire craze is fake to me because it's really about suspension. Soft sand is just not that frequent to justify 4" fatty. So I am left with modifying the A2B to adapt to standard size tire. 4" fatty are more available than 3" , but dang expensive. Thinner is a whole other ball of wax. Spacers, welding, adapters. Haven't worked it out mentally yet, been enjoying my Bella. Another thing. The concerns over disc brakes is over rated. I honestly find calipers adequate. Disc are better but more money. The A2B has great cargo rack and great suspension. One day... Btw, I keep hoping you'll do some full suspension mountain/trail bikes.
Johnny is da man. He set me up for my commuter here in WI. Schedule your consultation session with him on his website and have the conversation. He will listen and then tell you what you need. Support the small businessman and buy from him. You will not regret it.
This build MIGHT just be the best bang for your buck available today!
Thanks for doing a build on the Schwinn Axum DP, a massive favorite of Big Box Budget TH-camrs and MTB'ers.
Just a tip. It seems that the 40T Lekkie chainring will fit the standard Bafang motor cover with some modification. If you ever get to read this, it offers more offset options. The new 40T Pro chainring is good for 12sp derailleurs. Just saying.
1 of my favorite big box bikes with my favorite mid-drive. I like all your builds but this is one is special because I almost did the same for myself. I already have a converted MTB so I'm doing a Dolomite ALX instead.
Thanks for the video Johnny, that's a good performer. Just looked up that bike and new is just around $500.
Hey Johnny,
Building this bike. Bought the Axum DP at Walmart for $440. before I saw your awesome video.
The medium frame on the DP fits me better than the large frame on the standard Axum. Someone told me the rear hub is too weak on this bike for a Bafang mid-drive. Time will tell. Thanks!
I am in the process of doing this build! The only difference is that I've replaced the mechanical brakes with the Hydraulic Shimano Mt-200's, replaced the stock forks with RockShox Recon suspension forks, Shimano quick-release front, and NukeProof precision bearing headset parts. I was thinking about having the local machine shop weld in the Bafang Ultra M620 bracket to the frame. What are your thoughts on using that mid-drive instead? I also contacted Schwinn for the paint code from Y.S. paints in Taiwan.
I would LOVE that bike if it had rear suspension. Love those tires. Nice build
With those fat tires you barely notice the bumps.
@@TheAgentAssassin yep, I have 2 ebikes. 1 is a fat tire ebike 26x4.8, the other 29x2.5…anything at or above 2.5 looks really good to me.
Lol. Funny and exciting. Going to schedule a session with you in a couple weeks for my setup. Just had a baby yesterday so little delayed but a good delay. Lol.
Nicely done I have a custom build 29’er guy did a great job has a tongshen mid drive with a 48 volt 17ah
Hi! What width BBSHD did you use for the Schwinn Axum? Looking to convert mine. Thanks!
There is one more thing. Why do you continue to place the gear shift sensor near the derailleur. You could put it adjacent to the shifter with a 50mm outer cable and fit the same to the brake sensor. Less chance of a shock-induced cutoff. Just thoughts.
I have both. 3 hub motor bikes and 3 mid drive bikes. The mid drives are so much more powerful of course. But the hub motors have 2 "pros". 1. There is no drive train wear and tear at all. 2. Much lighter, although the weight isn't centered.
What wattage are the Hub Motor bikes? I notice all the high power e-bikes/e-motorcycle all use large high wattage hub motors. I figured someone would make a high power mid drive unit and make/use larger gears & chain.
Still looking for a decent step-through or low step bike with front suspension to mod for my wife. Most hybrid bikes with step through frames have rigid forks.
Great looking bike!
My free wheel broke miles into a trail. My hub motor got me home. Hub motors dont need a chain. Fir that reason alone they are a better option. Walk your bike several miles and youll see what I mean.
That said, I have been thinking about buying this bike and doing a middrive. Just seens to make sense for this bike.
I would just keep a spare master link with you if you are concerned about a broken chain
A great reason to not put hub motors is limited options when it comes to disc brakes. Found that out this week. Also you are running short on BBS02's and Cyclones.
Just got a shipment of BBS02’s in 👍
That ones pretty good, thats sort of like what im thinking of making next for taking to places that bikes usually cant get to due to fences. I wonder how long it takes to remove and reinstall that battery though for lifting over obstacles and swapping with an identical second battery in a backpack ? thats an important element of my next design.
This is exactly what I want to build. I'm curious though. Is there a speed or circumstance in which a hub motor is more efficient than the mid drive? I'm wanting to build an extreme range bike and maybe use the mid drive to get up to speed and hub to maintain.
Any efficiency would be lost by the added weight/drag of a second system. There is a point where a hub motor is arguably more efficient, but it would be a very small part of the power curve. This is all dependent on the types of motors we are talking about though. They are not all designed the same (gear ratios mainly)
What’s the cost of doing this for that bike? I was seeing reviews on this bike and seen your awesome video. Thanks
I wonder how much this exact build would cost to make it seems amazing (I already have a couple converted bikes that are mid drive but they were built by area 13)
Nice build. When are you going to the moped conversion?
As soon as the motor blows up. I’m thinking I need to do a long trip on it to expedite that 😀
Notice you didn’t pedal and the stock crank (L) hits the chainstay? Did you swap out the left crank?
If the crank is hitting the chain stay, it’s because too many spacers were used. The crank did not hit on this conversion. I actually never pedal as to show what the motor is capable of. 😀
Was this one of the single gear on the crank bikes? If it was did you use the chain as is or did you have to lengthen it?
Hi Johnny, is this the same bike that you did the 40 minute step by step ebike conversion tutorial on? It looks awesome.
When you do your Johnny NerdOut tests, what pedal assist level are you in?
9
Johnnynurdout rules. / 29” ers rule. /. Mid drives rule. I need a mid drive bike to rule the world 🌎. “. To much “ thanks Johnny for the info. You RULE
I rode a 29er for the first time the other day pretty decent
how do i do a schwinn sidewinder any help please for a fang mid?
Have you ever separated a rear cassette and shimmed it over into proper chainline, so as to utilize a 36 tooth chainring? If so have you had any issues?
Yes I have. No issues besides losing a couple gears (assuming that’s what you mean?)
@@JohnnyNerdOut thank you cause I'm gonna try this one my 10 speed specialized fuse, using the bbshd I just bought from you!
@@JohnnyNerdOut would a 46t chain ring fit on this bike? If so, would that help the chain line, or hurt it more?
How did you mount the 68mm motor on the axum? I hear the chainstay hits the motor housing not allowing it to go all the way in and left crank hits chainstay. I bought a axum and want to install a 750w 68mm, but am nervous on fitment. Any help appreciated.
Barely fit. Outer lock ring won’t have enough threads to attach 😞
@@JohnnyNerdOut thanks Johnny for responding. Does the crank arm hit chainstays
Did you use 44 tooth chainring
did you use the bafang crank arms?
What will it take for mid drives to become much more accessible to people not willing to pay thousands of dollars for a big brand name bike?
I think 250-350watt mid drives are the answer? What say you Johnny?
Damnit . Now RJ The Bike Guy and you are at the top of my YT recommendations. I just wanted to see how to adjust V Brakes and WTF the difference was between an electric bicycle and an electric moped. 😢🔫
That Battery looks
Small in Diameter
Can You Tell Me
The Diameter??
Planning To Do A
Convertion On A Mongoose Ardor X1
27.5 And I Don't Have
That Much Room..
Same, would like to know the size of that frame to compare to the Kent Trouvaille
What size frame was this Axum ? Thanks. Thinking about this or the new Kent Trouvaille (walmart)
will a 44T or 46T ring work with this build? im trying to decide what i can get away with. i dont need the torque cuz everything is flat AF here.
not showing the left crank install was smart as the stock cranks from BAFANG is not compatible with the 68-73mm BAFANG! Why not show your source for the left crank?
I used the stock crank arms on this build.
I would need one just like that. Do you sell it, can I build it, should I build it? What specific videos can give me a list of parts to buy, assembly instructions to build? I am ready...
just curious about that big chainring up front, doesn't that kinda nullify the mechanical advantage that makes mid drives stronger than hub motors?
Not at all. Changing to a smaller one would increase low end torque though
@@JohnnyNerdOut I have an Axum DP and I'm thinking about duplicating this conversion. Do you have a kit or parts list for this installation with pricing? the only difference between the Axum you converted and mine is mine has hydraulic brakes. I'm looking to end up with an ebike that climbs like a mountain goat while carrying my 6'1" 270lbs. That's why I asked about the big chainring, I'm looking for as much torque as I can get! It doesn't matter to me if top end is 15-20mph as long as it climbs like a beast!
@@oldmansadventures4627 check the description for parts used. I’d go with a 36t lekkie to get really good climbing power 👍
@@JohnnyNerdOut Brother you were right as rain, I had doubts that the BBS02B mid drive would be any stronger than my 1000w hub drive e-bike but I was wrong, and you were right! My Schwinn Axum DP is now a killer climber and thanks to the use of my gears it still tops out north of 30. Thank you so much for sharing your experience through your videos!
Very amusing bash on hub motors! Hub motor fans beware! Johnny, safe to assume you are on the biggest rear sprocket when you do the stand still hill test?
What’s the bottom bracket size and have a link to the motor? That worked for you
73mm i believe
www.johnnynerdout.com/product-page/1000w-bafang-bbshd-mid-drive
Hi Johnny!!! New subscriber here... i just wanna know if Hiland 24",4" fat kid bike i recently found in amazon can be converted to e-bike? Thanks in advance for the reply...
I have the Axum DP also, what is the parts list you got going on?
Can it fit 44t chainring please?
Do you have a warehouse store we can go in order to take our bikes so you can convert it into an eBike???
I work out of a shop I built on my property 😀 just message me via my website for more information on shipping me a bike 😀
Is it Ok run a 52v BBS02 with just stock rim brakes ? my bike does not have provision for Disc brakes
yes you should be good , maybe upgrade the pads
100% you need a brake sensor to cut the motor when braking
You are good. I build a 40mph BBSHD dropbar roadbike with 52V battery with rim brakes. Ultegra brakes. Stops on a dime. 28mm tires.
Hi J, what do you think about the new bafang BBSO2B MOTOR
It’s fantastic, not really “new” though. I think it’s been out for like 4 years +
@@JohnnyNerdOut 🤣 only it said its the new one when I bought it thank you J, I can't wait till I get my mountain bike built after riding my fat tyre bike it will be a welcome change 😉 👍🏾
I have a BBS02 on my 6 yo Giant Roam MTB - lovin it ! - 50 kmlhr max speed with 46 tooth front sprocket and 48V 17.5 AH battery
@@JohnSmith-sj2dk nice one brother thanks for the reply 👍🏾 🙏
I’ve been looking at fat tire bikes much more recently as the only fat tire thing I’ve owned was a scooter solid wheel which was cool, but of course you can’t peddle, so that kills the functionality of transportation when it becomes necessary. 🙁
How much does something like this cost
$1200 plus cost of bike
Can you start saying the cost of the build, I realize the bike prices would differ.
How much do you pay for bikes before you convert them.
I pay up to £25 to £40
For a bike in the same quality as the one in the video.
The customers appreciate it when they save £600
Are these for sale??
Most are customer builds but some are for sale on my website
I live in hawaii. Can i get an e-bike???
You will likely have to deal with an importer
Tbh my hub can beat 35mph at 52v more like 40+ and add peddling into any hill you get the hub and drive train together. Still each to their own ey
The Schwinn Axum,Taff & Boundary's are good bang for the buck dept. store bikes, if you can find one on sale. Same with some of the Mongoose bikes..... MTN bike prices are joke, obviously a $6,000 MTN bike is going to be way better than a $250 Schwinn Boundary bike but it's still nowhere near $5,750 better. If people would quit paying stupid prices for MTN bikes. Sellers would drop their prices and still be able to make profits. They'd probably make more profits by selling/moving more units if they dropped prices. Most people won't buy a $6,000 MTN bike but would consider the same bike at $2,000.. Especially when they see it's way better than a $400 Dept store bike but not crazy $6,000 priced. The price markup is insane, example, way more goes into making a Felt Fake motorized bike frame that can be bought for under $200 VS $1,500 for some name brand 6061 aluminum MTN bike frames.
Boudary works really well with the BBSXX mid drive or hub motors.
The most cheapest 1000w direct drive hub motor you can buy.
Does 37 mph top speed with 52v battery park.
Have you actually tested direct drive hub motors.
They have a lot of options and features.
What you said they didn't have.
In another videos
1 time you said couldn't program hub motors.
Actually there is more options can do on direct drive hub Motors than mid drives systems
I build high powered mid drive systems & direct drive hub motors & freewheel hub motors E-Bikes.
So I know the difference.
I'm a fan of hub motors but typically not as powerful as mid-drive because the power isn't scaled through the gears that is definitely an advantage of mid-drive but really you don't need professional installation of hub motors its much more simple so you can save a lot of money plus you get the benefits of long term reliability and reduced drivetrain wear. I'd never have a e-mountain bike fitted with a hub motor because it would be the wrong choice but then I wouldn't ever have a commuting or touring ebike with a mid-drive motor. However I think Johnny needs to do a custom mid-drive vs shop bought mid-drive ebike (Bosch etc) because there are a lot of important differences there. I just don't think its fair to just lump mid-drive all together. I've seen comments where custom mid-drive ebikes are just lumped with the high end very proprietary mid-drive motor ebikes.
Grin technology just released a video about renovating a old hub motor ebike, I think its like 15 years old and done many thousands of miles and the renovation was really just bearings and one tiny component which he admitted he didn't have to replace it was just a loose leg. That's the reliability of hub motors that you will never ever get with mid-drive.
I have no problem with Johnny being pro mid-drive his whole business is based around it. Different people see the different benefits of each system either as more important or less important. The vast majority of ebikes in the world are hub based which admittedly is down to pricing.
Agreed
Hub drives are fine unless you’re gonna ride uphill!
@@darrylrowe4804 If you are grossly unfit and just don't want to put any effort into pedalling I can see your point but hub drives makes hills probably 3x easier compared to standard bikes where as perhaps the most powerful mid-drive motors maybe 5x easier. If you are off-road going up steep embankments fair enough mid-drives rule but where I live roads don't have 40% inclines. Hub motors are about 30-45Nm where as mid-drive maybe 60-95Nm however there is a small amount of power loss in the chain with mid-drive and with mid-drive the power is scaled through the gears so on some more commuter based ebikes with mid-drive the gearing is not particularly low and the mid-drive motors are far less powerful around 60Nm so many of those are actually worse for climbing hills than many hub drive ebikes. There is definitely an overlap in power between the two. Some mid-drive ebikes don't have a 1:1 gear ratio or even lower than that so what the motor produces is less at the rear wheel especially with the chain power loss. Also remember hub drives deliver their full power in all gears so they can have a much more nippy feel than mid-drive away from the hills so they can feel more powerful away from the hills. To be honest though for me its about the engineering simplicity and long term reliability and value than makes hub motors so appealing which I'm happy to accept slightly less hill climbing performance to get. I want a reliable ebike for long riding sessions over many hours. Even if the chain breaks I can still get home by turning the pedals and letting the motor do all the work, not that the chain would break of course because the hub motor takes a huge amount of load off the drivetrain so the drivetrain wears much, much slower and is less likely to have any issues.
So you do read the comments! Send me a message if you can. I don’t want to share my email here.
does the cassette, skip.
No. If yours is, it’s need adjustment.
You Nerded out on hudrives you should be ashamed of yourself your only saving Grace is that you have Nerd in you name 🙉🙊🙈
You talk too much. I bit more mechanical show would be good, ir are you it capable?